How to make water for diorama modeling. Muddy waters of the Mekong. Simulate liquid using two-component clear epoxy resin
I present to your attention one of the ways to simulate waves on the surface of a reservoir using epoxy resin. The method is a modification of V. Demchenko’s method, described in the article “Water Imitation”. In this article, the author describes a method for making wavy water relief by casting epoxy resin into an aluminum mold in one step. Note that the method is very sensitive to the quality of the injection mold (even Demchenko himself did not succeed the first time), and also requires a large amount of resin.
The method I propose differs in that the formation process water surface is divided into two stages - preliminary (casting a rough plaster mold) and finishing (forming a relief with epoxy resin directly on the gypsum cast). This method, naturally, somewhat lengthens the work in time, but it is cheaper and quite accessible to not very experienced modelers. So let's begin. I’ll make a reservation right away that I will write in as much detail as possible, since the article is addressed specifically to novice modelers.
We decide on the dimensions of the future diorama. I use standard photo frames (photo 1). Next, you will need a special device - a board with an even layer of plasticine applied with a thickness of about 5 mm and an area sufficient to complete the required casting. On this board, with the blunt end of a brush, we draw out the future water relief in plasticine (photo 2). We cover the board with a layer of thin food-grade aluminum foil and roll the relief formed on plasticine in it with our finger (photo 3). This allows you to smooth out the relief and make it more realistic. Using rulers fastened with plasticine, we form a bath for plaster casting according to the dimensions of the future diorama (photo 4). The rulers should be sunk into plasticine so that the plaster does not spread. We dilute gypsum (alabaster) by adding and kneading small portions of powder in water until creamy. The water can be pre-tinted with a dye (photo 5), for example this one (photo 6). Pour the resulting creamy solution into the mold and wait for it to harden (photo 7). I let the casting dry for about a day.
So, the next day we have a finished casting, which we fix to the frame (photo 8) using glue, for example this (photo 9). First, you need to glue an insert of 2 mm plastic into the frame as the bottom of the future diorama (photo 10). Let's paint it acrylic paints in the color of the water we want to see in the diorama. I chose dark brown and dark greenish shades because I am making the base for a small peat bog (photo 11). Let the paint dry for about a day. The next day we decorate the ends of the future diorama with thin plastic (photo 12). IN in this case I used clear plastic from some packaging. The sides should protrude above the surface by at least 3-5 mm to form a bath for filling the surface with epoxy resin (photo 13).
Preparing epoxy resin (photo 14). We act according to the instructions. First, let's heat a larger vessel with resin in a water bath to 40-50 degrees (but no more!) so that it flows better. Pour the required amount of resin into a disposable cup. It is easy to calculate this amount. The resin layer should be small - 2-3 mm. If the base size is 13x13 cm like mine, then the volume will be 13x13x0.3 = 50 ml - a quarter of a glass. Next, add the hardener in small parts in the recommended proportions, mix everything thoroughly. To accurately dose the hardener, it is convenient to use a syringe. Let the composition sit a little so that the main air bubbles come out, and then fill the surface of the base with epoxy (photo 15). It can be seen that there are still quite a lot of bubbles. We remove them with a toothpick (photo 16). This will take about half an hour.
The next stage is the actual formation of the relief. It is obvious that the epoxy spread in an even layer (photo 17). But we can easily restore the relief if we tilt the base at an angle (Fig. 18). As long as the epoxy is fluid, the relief will disappear. Therefore, the most important thing is not to miss the moment when it begins to harden. How much time will pass until this moment from the start of preparation of the composition depends on the amount of added hardener. Therefore, I recommend determining this point experimentally. In my case, the epoxy began to set after 2.5 hours. Next, you should cast a spell, tilting the base, for 15-20 minutes until the movement of the resin stops (photo 19). I note that the degree of inclination is easy to control the depth of the relief, making the waves insignificant or, on the contrary, noticeable. Complete hardening occurs within a day (photo 20).
So, we have a blank with a realistic water relief for further work on the diorama. The labor intensity of the method in pure time is four to five hours, of which three hours are witchcraft over the hardening epoxy. The advantages of the method include a small amount of resin used, high reliability of the formed relief, since it occurs during the natural wave-like movement of the resin during its hardening. And the third plus. If we want to drill a hole in the base, for example to plant reeds, we only have to drill a thin layer of resin. This allows you to significantly save on thin drills when further working with the diorama. This method was used when working with the “Wet Place” diorama. There were no losses when drilling the base for the reeds.
Good afternoon
I have been trying to find materials and techniques for creating a water surface for a long time, while trying to look for publicly available materials
(including inexpensive ones) and simple technologies, accessible to modelers of any level. Over the past six months I have conducted a small experiment and this is what happened.
Many modellers used, and many still use, epoxy resins to simulate a water surface, including EAF (Dzerzhinsk) and similar analogues. They may be suitable for swampy or river water, but not for clear sea or flowing river water, the whole point is that these resins turn yellow and darken over time.
To imitate the surface of the sea or ocean, Vallejo produces colored and transparent gels; they are applied with a brush. The price of these jars is approximately 500-600 rubles. Even buying one jar in Barcelona (Spain), the price turned out to be the same as in Yekaterinburg. 
Here is an approximate result of their use. Base - EDP epoxy resin, Vallejo gel coating. As we can see, the resin began to darken after 3 months, although it was transparent at the hardening stage. 
And I wanted to find material specifically for clear water. It seems my dream has come true - the company "Andrea miniatures" releases the "Artificial Water" set 
- the same resin, but transparent, although over the course of a year it gave a slightly yellowish tint, 
but this is not so critical.
The price is for 250 gr. It cost me 1,500 rubles - I think it’s a bit expensive for our brother modeler.
So I continued my search and came across resins such as optical epoxy adhesives - compounds for jewelry brand PEO-510 KE -20/0. There are several varieties, but for now I bought this brand and Czech-made Epoxy 520 resin from the company. Both are two-component (resin and hardener), transparent and are sold in any container from 250 grams. up to 200 kg. The price is around 1000-1300 rubles per 1 kg. 
Having examined samples of products made from these resins at the company, I was convinced that they did not darken or turn yellow. Molded plastic is also available for sale,
including transparent, but its consistency is very thick and, according to the company’s managers, it will be problematic to remove the bubbles without a vacuum chamber. It might work for figures, but I don’t think so for a water surface.
Arriving home, I began making a model of the water surface. I took the package from cell phone and used it as a bath. I laid out small sea pebbles and several stones on the bottom and sprinkled it all with fine sea sand. Under the stones I put some kind of dried grass, which was supposed to imitate algae. After heating the resin to 40 -50 degrees in a water bath, I began to add a hardener and a little oil paint to give the appropriate shade sea water. After the thin first layer of “painted resin” began to harden, I filled the bathtub to the brim transparent resin without additives. Here's what happened: 
More than three months have passed, but the resin remains transparent. I think this version of the experiment is suitable for standing water.
Next, I wanted to try to reproduce light waves on the surface; for these purposes, I purchased two types of transparent gels in an art salon, one Idea Midium made in Italy, the other Kristall Gel made in Germany. Both gels are in the same basket price 350 - 370 rubles. 
Idea Midium Gel, when applied with a brush, gives a thinner layer (good for 350 and 72 scales) than Kristall Gel, which is more suitable for waves in 48 and 35 scales. Although using them consistently, I think you can come to good result. The photo shows how the gel lays on the glass. 
So, first I cover the surface with Idea Midium gel to create a light sea ripple: 
After 24 hours we see this picture: 
Then I cover it with a thick layer of Kristall Gel, because the layer turned out to be really large, the gel dried within three days. In this case, I also wanted to see how the gel would behave if I tried to imitate splashes from a wave impinging on a stone: 
Touched up with white
Simulation of water and liquids in crafts May 7th, 2011
source: http://women-on-line.ru/publ/kukolnaja_miniatjura/imitacija_vody_v_kukolnykh_miniatjurakh/59-1-0-514
Imitation of water in puppet miniatures
Typically, miniaturists use epoxy resin to simulate water and other liquids. If you have seen various drinks, shiny sauces on food, raw eggs, soups or other liquids in puppet miniatures, and have also seen beautiful water effects in railroad or landscape scenes, you may have looked at epoxy resin products.
When you prepare this mixture, it will harden, become shiny and durable. It can be poured in several layers to create the effect of deep water.
Only a layer of 3 or 6 mm of material can be poured at a time. You cannot pour one thick layer of this material. For example, deep water can only be done in several layers.
What is two-part clear epoxy resin?
Two component clear epoxy resin is glossy finish, obtained from a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener. You can buy it in hardware stores and construction supermarkets. The main use of the material is a long lasting and high shine after it hardens. Two-component epoxy resin is sold in a set (two jars: one with hardener and the other with epoxy resin). When these two components are mixed in equal quantities, the mixture heats up, then becomes gel-like, and then completely hardens.
Paints, dyes and fillers can be added to the mixture to simulate colors and textures. Paints must be suitable for working with epoxy resin. Other dyes may react with the epoxy and destroy its normal properties.
Safe work
It is necessary to work with epoxy resins only in a well-ventilated area. You should avoid inhaling the fumes (epoxy resin fumes are much lighter than fumes from other chemicals used to simulate water), and it is advisable to wear gloves and safety glasses when handling epoxy resin to protect your hands and eyes from accidental splashes. The product is sold with accessible instructions for safe use.
This is not a product that can be used by children. Therefore, bottles with epoxy resin and hardener should be kept away from children.
Rubbing alcohol or regular alcohol can be used to remove spilled liquid resin from surfaces and tools.
Mixing
The two ingredients must be completely mixed together in one container (which should be thrown away after use). The material from which the container is made should not react with the epoxy. Good for working with miniatures Small plastic cups with measuring marks (for example, the kind sold with cough syrup) are suitable in which you can mix the two components of the resin. If you don’t have anything like that on hand, you can also use disposable syringes to measure required quantity material.
Epoxy resin must be mixed by carefully measuring the exact amount of resin and hardener (1:1). This option is also possible: you measure the required amount of epoxy resin, pour it into a disposable cup, and then add hardener to another cup to the same level.
When you have two equal portions, you pour the epoxy resin into the container with the hardener and thoroughly mix the two components with a wooden stick.
Then, once the ingredients are well mixed in the container, you pour them back into the container that held the epoxy resin to ensure that you have used equal amounts of the ingredients and that whatever is left at the bottom of the first container is completely used.
Removing Bubbles
Mixing epoxy resin and hardener will cause bubbles to form. If you blow on the mixture, the bubbles will burst due to the presence of carbon dioxide in your breath. If you will be filling small bottles, jars, glasses or jugs, let the epoxy sit for a few minutes to allow the gases to escape before pouring it into the container in which it will cure.
Working conditions
Most epoxy resin manufacturers indicate in the instructions a time of approximately 30 minutes until the resin becomes gel-like (this time depends on the room temperature). Most two-part epoxy mixtures cure in approximately 8 hours at 21°C. But they cannot be used when the room humidity is around 50%, otherwise they may become foggy. The material has a shelf life of at least a year if stored in a tightly sealed container. Epoxy resin products will turn yellow if exposed to direct sunlight.
Simulate liquid using two-component clear epoxy resin
The epoxy resin settles into a flat surface. It slowly stretches down the walls of the vessel. To simulate still water, you will need to apply a final leveling to its surface to remove the “sticking out” edges that form as the mass flows down the walls.
Plan your work carefully. You may need to glue the pieces together before pouring the resin into the jar. You may also need to add details with each layer (for example, to make a realistic environment with fish or tadpoles at different levels, jars of fruit or vegetables that don't sink to the bottom).
If you're planning to simulate melting jelly, ice cream, or a spilled drink, allow the epoxy resin to gel before pouring it. This will give you a thicker layer than if you poured it straight after mixing.
To create a wet mark or puddle effect, but with the understanding that you will then need to remove this effect from the surface, pour resin onto a bendable plastic surface. Tear the plastic away from the "puddle" and then place the "puddle" on the floor in dollhouse without spilling resin on the floor.
There are other products that are better suited to the running water effect, and most can be combined with hardening two-part clear epoxy resin.
Tips and tricks
Epoxy resins will not come out of shape easily. Do not use them to make jelly dolls or other things that need to be removed from molds.
Improper mixing will result in the epoxy resin not curing. Measure well before mixing.
When filling a small-necked container, fill it drop by drop from the tip of a pin or toothpick. Or use a disposable pipette or syringe.
Avoid working in cold and damp room, otherwise the resin may become cloudy.
Use special paints for working with epoxy resin. Compatible paints are clear or translucent, and colors can be mixed.
Some plastic parts may dissolve in epoxy resin. Check to see if paints or bases will be damaged by resin before working with them.
Probably one of the many pleasant activities is watching water. It doesn’t matter what it is - a stream, a pond, a sea or an ocean.
The works of many artists try to convey all the power, beauty and romance at the same time, to capture a specific moment in time. It is this moment that remains in our memory and makes us remember it many, many times.
For this reason, a diorama allows you to create a composition that will delight you for a long time. In addition to composition and artistry, realism plays a vital role in a diorama. In this article we will tell you how you can imitate water for your dioramas in bench modeling.
Materials and methods
All simulation methods can be divided into 2 groups:
- volumetric;
- superficial.
Simulation of water thickness (volume)
This technique is used when it is necessary to convey the “actions” inside the water, to show transparency. For such purposes, polyurethane and epoxy resins are usually used.
- a substance of yellow-brown or transparent color that hardens with a hardener.
Advantages:
- 2-3 hours after mixing the components, the resin changes its characteristics and it is convenient to apply it to the surface and give it a wave shape.
Flaws:
- thorough mixing and precise adherence to the proportions of the components are necessary. If this is neglected, bubbles may appear.
- severe shrinkage after drying;
- toxicity, unpleasant odor.
is a modern replacement for epoxy resin. Unlike epoxy, it has better fluidity and transparency. For this reason, it is better suited for simulating objects submerged in water. Shrinkage is present, but not significant. The time until complete drying can be up to 48 hours.
Flaws:
- highly toxic;
- high price.
If you need to create a water surface of great thickness and do not need water transparency, the “old fashioned way” - gypsum - will do.
Gypsum - inexpensive material odorless, has significant hardness. The mixture should not be very liquid, but at the same time not thick. After drying (1-2 hours) the surface can be painted. For these purposes, both the most inexpensive paints - gouache, and more expensive water-soluble acrylic paints - are quite suitable.
Imitation of water surface
Sometimes it happens that in a diorama, only surface effects are enough, for example: puddles, ponds, and other small bodies of water. Although there are exceptions - the surface of the sea. Here are the main methods.
Silicone sealant(transparent)- this is the most common sealant, which is packaged in tubes. Ideal for simulating rough water. Dries from air moisture. After application, it is advisable to immerse the work under a hood.
Flaws:
- toxic while dry, has a strong vinegar smell;
- peeling due to mechanical stress is possible;
- quick drying(about 30 minutes).
Liquid nails (transparent)- glue that is also familiar to us. It is a white, odorless, non-toxic substance. It has a transparent base that can be tinted with acrylic paints. The transparency of the layer appears only after complete drying. A thick layer takes a very long time to dry, so it is recommended to pour glue no more than 5-6 mm thick. and make wavelengths up to 1 cm.
Flaws:
- long time drying.
Conclusion
As you can see, there are quite enough ways to simulate water in modeling, besides, here we have not described all of them - but only the main ones. There is no one universal method; each modeler must choose one or another method that is suitable in a given situation.
We hope this article helped you. Happy modeling!
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