Multi-tiered onions: cultivation, beneficial properties. In the world of onions. Reproduction, cultivation, varieties Type of onion propagation using a bulb
Propagation of bulbous crops
Reproduction of lilies - by dividing a nest of bulbs 1. The easiest way to propagate lilies is by dividing a nest of bulbs. Every year, young bulbs grow at the bottom of the bulb. After 3-4 years, a real nest is formed from them, consisting of 4-6 bulbs crowding each other. In order for the lily to develop normally, they must be separated. Then plant each bulb, preferably in a new place. It is better to do this in early September. But division and planting in spring are allowed (before sprouts appear above the ground). In the first year, lilies planted after dividing the nest must be especially carefully looked after, not forgetting to water and feed. Then they will bloom in full force in the 3rd year.
Method of propagating lilies using baby bulbs
2. Separation and planting of baby bulbs. These bulbs form on the underground part of the stem. At the beginning of September, they need to be separated without digging up the mother bulb, and immediately planted to a depth of 4-5 cm. It is still too early for the children to enter the flower garden, so first it is better to plant them in a bed with light nutritious soil, and after a year or two, move them to a permanent place.
When propagated by baby bulbs, the lily blooms in the 3rd or 4th year. Earlier flowering also occurs, but it is undesirable, since the plant has not yet gained strength. In this case, it is better to remove the buds.
1 - bulb with children;
2 - bulb after separation of the children;
3 - rooted bulbs
Method for obtaining lily bulbs from scales
3. Obtaining bulbs from scales. This is the fastest and most profitable method of reproduction. From one bulb you can get up to 150 new ones, since many lilies are able to form bulbs even on part of the scales. The operation of separating scales can be carried out throughout the year, but it is better either in early spring or during autumn digging and replanting.
The onion removed from the ground must be washed and the scales very carefully separated. The separated scales should be washed, kept for 15 minutes in a bright solution of potassium permanganate and slightly dried. When planting, you need to deepen it so that the scales are in the ground two-thirds of the height. The scales with the bulbs formed on them are planted in open ground in May.
As already mentioned, you can separate the scales in the spring. Then they need to be planted immediately in open ground. When propagated by scales, lilies bloom in the 3rd year.
1 - separation of scales;
2 - onion after separation of scales;
3 - bulbs formed on the scales
4. Lilies from stem bulbs. The most bulbous varieties are among Asian hybrids. The number and size of bulbs depend on the variety, agricultural technology, weather conditions, age, and abundance of flowering. Thus, they will be larger in young plants or with removed buds. Good agricultural technology and increased air humidity contribute not only to an increase in the size of the aerial bulbs, but also to the formation of roots directly on the stem.
The collection of bulblets should be carried out after flowering, when they are easily separated.
1 - stem with buds;
2 - stem after their removal;
3 - rooted buds
Onion
They reproduce both by seeds and vegetatively. Seeds are sown before winter or in spring.
A number of bulbous crops are usually propagated only vegetatively using their vegetative organs: cuttings, bulbs, tubers, rhizomes.
After the formation of a well-developed root system, the plants are planted in a permanent place.
Tomatoes, potatoes, tarragon and lovage are propagated in this way. Propagation by root cuttings is used for horseradish breeding. When harvesting horseradish, some root branches thinner than 1.5 cm, as well as short rhizomes 1.5-2 cm thick, can be planted in the soil and new plants can be obtained. If the root cuttings are 20-25 cm long, then they can be planted in a permanent place and they will produce full-fledged food organs in the first year. Vegetables cannot form from small root cuttings in the first year, so they are planted in a nursery for growing. This makes it possible to obtain full-fledged planting material for laying a bed for the next year.
Propagation by dividing rhizomes is a simple and convenient way of vegetative propagation, as it simultaneously promotes the health and rejuvenation of the mother plant. The rhizomes of perennial crops, such as rhubarb, asparagus, tarragon, lovage, are divided into parts so that each has at least 2 renewal buds, and planted in a permanent place.
Propagation by bulbs. In sharp varieties of onions, as well as in shallots and garlic, the bulbs form from 3-5 to 25 cloves, from which, after planting in a permanent place, independent plants grow. Perennial multi-tiered onions and bolting forms of garlic form aerial bulbs (bulbs), by planting which you can get independent plants capable of producing a harvest the next year. Propagation by tubers is practiced when growing potatoes and Jerusalem artichoke. The tuber is a modified underground stem on which eyes with buds are located. Under favorable conditions, above-ground stems and underground stolons grow from the buds, where tubers are subsequently formed. Each tuber can form from 5 to 15 new tubers. If there is a lack of planting material, they resort to dividing the tubers, cutting them crosswise and planting the upper and lower lobes separately. If it is necessary to quickly propagate a particular variety, the tubers are germinated in the soil. The resulting sprouts are carefully broken off and planted first in a greenhouse and then in a permanent place. This method allows you to get a large number of new plants from one tuber.
Based on these experiments, it can be argued that northern vegetatively propagated onions were imported from the south in the form of seeds or bulbs at various times and were cultivated in conditions unusual for them.
Constant vegetative propagation and storage of seed onions at high temperatures; temperature contributed to the emergence of multi-bud bulbs, and their systematic selection for this valuable trait led to its consolidation. Thus, local multi-nest forms of vegetatively propagated onions arose.
Research in subsequent years has convinced us that vegetatively propagated onions are not representatives of a special species - Allium ascalonicum L. Such forms can be obtained from any variety of onions by long-term cultivation of seed onions under certain conditions that promote the development of vegetative buds on the bulb stem, and the selection of non-shooting ones multi-nest plants.
Along with typically vegetatively propagated varieties and populations and multi-primed onion varieties periodically grown from seeds (Troitsky local, Skopinsky local, Spassky local, Pogarsky local, etc.), there are intermediate forms of onions in which, after many years of vegetative propagation, within one year seeds. For example, onions of the Estonian SSR are grown vegetatively for 6-7 years, then one seed reproduction is obtained, and then the onions are again propagated vegetatively. Such onions are distinguished by early ripening and keeping quality, passing through the vernalization stage at elevated temperatures and other characteristics that make them similar to vegetatively propagated onions. At the same time, these onions have properties similar to local multi-primed onions, when up to 6 strong bulbs with increased primordia are formed in the nest.
A set grows from the seeds of vegetatively propagated onions and ordinary hot varieties of onions. With further vegetative propagation, branching in these varieties proceeds differently.
Comparing the branching of multi-bud varieties and local vegetatively propagated onions, we can say that in the latter it is much more pronounced. Usually, already in the 2-3rd year after seed reproduction, the number of bulbs in the nest reaches 6-14, and this is not the limit: over the years, the number of bulbs in the nest can increase. In multi-bud varieties, after 2-3 years the number of bulbs in the nest, usual for this variety, is established.
Vegetative buds formed in the leaf axils depending on the position
on the stem they have different ages: the lower buds are older, the upper ones are younger.
Under favorable storage conditions (0-10° C), all the buds on the stem undergo vernalization, as a result of which all branches of the plant shoot out an arrow. Under insufficiently favorable conditions, only the lower buds undergo vernalization completely, and the upper ones partially, then branches without a arrow appear. Under unfavorable conditions for the vernalization process, i.e. at very high (over 18°C) or very low (about 0°C) storage temperature, bolting is not observed, or it is sporadic.
Local vegetatively propagated onions, under the influence of long-term storage under conditions that delay the passage of the vernalization stage, partially lose the ability to form generative organs. So, if for ordinary varieties of onions grown through seeding, the best temperature for vernalization is 6-10 ° C with a duration of exposure of 80-100 days, then for vegetatively propagated forms - 10-12 ° C and 100-150, respectively days.
Pre-winter planting and storage at low temperatures contribute to the completion of the vernalization stage; as a result, after 2-3 years, bolting is completely restored in vegetatively propagated forms and all the buds located on the bottom are capable of producing bolts. Storing vegetatively propagated onions at 12-15° C promotes partial vernalization - branches (bulbs) with and without arrows are formed on the plant.
Differentiation of buds on the bottom of the bulbs begins soon after the onions are stored for storage and, as Emsweller and Jones pointed out, is completed by spring, regardless of whether the onions are planted in the field or are in storage. The number of buds formed depends on temperature, air humidity, duration of storage under certain conditions, bulb size and other reasons.
The shape of the bulb is determined by the number of rudiments: elongated ones have a small number of them, flat ones have the largest number. The density of the bulb is also directly dependent on the number of primordia: the more branches are laid in the bulb, the thinner its succulent scales become and the more tightly they adhere to each other.
On the shortened stem of an onion bulb, daughter buds can be formed in different places. The closer to the base of the stem the buds are laid, the greater the number of them that are formed and the more they expand the bulb, increasing the pressure on the juicy scales. As a result, the bulbs become compacted, acquiring a flat shape.
The temperature regime for storing onion and garlic bulbs ultimately determines the pace and nature of the plant’s development, and, consequently, its precocity. This aftereffect of temperature is not uncommon and is observed in many plant species (clover, rye, rapeseed, winter wheat, etc.).
This phenomenon has been studied to a lesser extent in vegetable crops, but similar conclusions were obtained. Thus, Vent found that tomatoes grown at a changing daily temperature with a significant decrease at night grow better compared to tomatoes grown at a uniformly high temperature.
Bryzgalova showed that storing gladioli corms at a temperature of 25 ° C stimulated rapid growth, while storage at low temperatures noticeably weakened its rate.
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Decorative onions - Alliums, are very diverse and can decorate any garden with bright balls of their inflorescences. Unpretentious bulbous plants begin to bloom at the end of spring and “freeze” for a long time at the peak of beauty. And even after the end of flowering, during the ripening of the seeds, the drying heads of decorative onions look very attractive.
Dutch onion 'Purple Sensation'. © Jay Peg Content:
Description of decorative bow
Ornamental onions are close relatives of regular edible onions and garlic and are part of the Allium subfamily ( Alliaceae) family Amaryllidaceae ( Amaryllidaceae). If you rub a leaf, stem or bulb of any plant from this family, an easily recognizable “onion” or “garlic” smell will appear. In nature, there are several hundred species of onions that grow in the northern hemisphere.
Linear or belt-shaped leaves of onions are basal. Each onion flower is very small in size, but the flowers are combined into an inflorescence, which gives the plant its main decorative effect.
The inflorescence balls of some decorative onions can reach 30 cm in diameter, for example, Christophe's Onion ( Allium cristophii). Most ornamental onions bloom in May-June, but there are also fall-blooming varieties. Flowering of some species can last quite a long time and even after it ends the plant will not lose its attractive appearance. Thus, the dried balls of the inflorescences of the decorative onion of Christophe look no less charming in the autumn garden than the bright purple ones in the spring.
Gigantic bow 'Globemaster'. © amy Features of growing ornamental onions
Location: Most onions are light-loving, so sunny areas and southern slopes with well-drained, loose, fertile soils are chosen for them. The best illumination determines the intensity of the color of flowers and leaves.
The soil: The preferred reaction of the soil solution is close to neutral. At a pH below 5, the soil must be limed.
Fertilizers: When preparing a site for planting onions, the soil is filled with rotted compost and a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements is applied, based on its fertility indicators. Like all bulbous plants, ornamental onions are very sensitive to a lack of potassium in the soil. An excellent potassium fertilizer for them is wood ash.
Watering: Onions tolerate both short-term drought and short-term waterlogging of the soil well. Sufficient provision of moisture is a necessary condition for the normal development of plants in the first half of the growing season, when the formation of leaf apparatus and flowering shoots occurs. With a lack of moisture, leaf growth stops and resumes when watered.
Allium 'Mount Everest'. © Pressebereich Dehner Caring for decorative onions
When growing ornamental species of the genus Allium in a temperate climate zone, it is best to dig up the bulbs annually after the seeds ripen and the leaves dry out and plant them again in the fall.
The fact is that ephemeroid onions and many xerophytic bulbous species come from the middle zone of the mountains of Central Asia - a zone with hot, dry summers and winters with frequent thaws. In their homeland, after the end of the growing season at the end of June, the bulbs of these species remain in warm, dry soil until autumn. There is practically no rain during this period.
In central Russia, if the second half of summer turns out to be damp and cool, the bulbs left in the ground can be affected by diseases and rot. Therefore, it is better to dig them up, dry them well and store them at room temperature in a dry, ventilated area until autumn. In areas with favorable environmental conditions, bulbs cannot be dug up every year, but when they become denser, the plants become smaller and bloom worse.
In autumn, bulbs are planted after a steady drop in soil and air temperatures, usually in the third ten days of September. The optimal temperature for rooting bulbs is the soil temperature in the root formation zone at 10 °C. The planting depth of the bulbs is determined so that above its top point there is a layer of earth equal to three times the height of the bulb itself. Accordingly, large bulbs are planted much deeper than small ones.
It is better to plant in a moistened furrow; the top of the planting is mulched with humus or peat, which should prevent the formation of a soil crust. In autumn, root growth continues until the soil temperature in the area where they occur drops to +2..+3 °C. Bulbs of some types - moth onions, Ostrovsky, pink, blue, blue-blue - can be planted in autumn and spring after storage in a cool, dry place. It is better to store small onions in peat or sawdust to prevent them from drying out.
Bulbous-rhizomatous species are grown in a perennial culture and propagated by dividing the bushes. Plants are replanted after 3-5 years, sometimes even after 7 years, but in this case the plantings must be thinned out and self-seeding prevented.
The optimal planting time is early spring and late summer, with the expectation that the cuttings will take root well before frost.
Every spring, the area should be deeply loosened and cleaned of plant debris and snow mold. Plant care during the growing season is usual - weeding, loosening and mulching the soil.
Plants are watered only when there is a clear lack of moisture; they are always fed in the spring after the leaves grow, as well as during the budding and bulb formation phase and at the end of summer with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to improve the overwintering of plants. For spring feeding, complex mineral fertilizers (NPKMg) with microelements are used, selecting forms with a high content of nitrogen in the nitrate form.
In summer, liquid fertilizing is carried out with a solution of mineral fertilizers. When fertilizing in August, granular phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied in dry form. For the winter, plantings can be mulched with peat or humus.
Bow of Christophe. © plantify Propagation of decorative onions
Onions are propagated by seeds and vegetatively.
Seeds are sown in spring or autumn. Seedlings dive onto well-lit ridges. When propagating from seeds, two important points should be taken into account. Firstly, the seeds of many species, for example, xerophytic ephemeroids - giant onion, aflatun onion, stalked onion, etc. - germinate only during winter sowing, after the seeds are exposed to a complex of conditions of the autumn-winter-spring season. It is not always possible to replace it with the same shelf life of seeds in the refrigerator.
And secondly, when grown from seeds, many types of onions - anzura, wild garlic, etc. - bloom in the 3-8th year, only after the bulbs have reached a mass sufficient for reproductive development. Ephemeroid onion species with a short annual growing season have the longest juvenile stage.
Vegetative propagation of bulbous species occurs through branching (division) of the bulbs and the formation of baby bulbs developing on the bottom and stolons of the mother bulb. The degree of branching of the bulb and the ability to form children are specific characteristics. Rhizomatous species, characterized by active branching of shoots, reproduce mainly by dividing the bush.
When growing plants from seeds, bushes can be divided from the third year of life. Delenki are sections of rhizome with two or three intact shoots and well-developed roots. In all species, small bulbs - bulbs - can form on the inflorescences. Their formation can be stimulated artificially by cutting off the buds and treating them with growth regulators. Bulbs can be used for planting. This is a valuable planting material that is progressively younger and free from phytopathogens.
Round onion. © Patrick Standish Using decorative bow in design
Decorative onions are used in group plantings, mixborders, and low-growing species - on rocky hills. Cut decorative onions decorate the interior for a long time, almost 2 weeks, and dried plants can be used for dry bouquets. From onions you can create a garden of continuous flowering.
Types and varieties of decorative onions
Decorative bow ‘Globemaster’- very good garden form. It begins to bloom in June, and often ends with the onset of autumn. Spherical inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm consist of many star-shaped flowers. Peduncles appearing between shiny green leaves reach a height of 80 cm.
Decorative bow ‘Purple Sensation’- a widely known garden form of decorative onion of hybrid origin with dark purple flowers. Representatives of this variety reproduce by seeds. Normally up to 70 cm tall, with slightly ribbed stems, protruding leaves up to 4 cm wide and cupped dark purple flowers.
Decorative bow ‘Mount Everest’- decorative onion with large white flowers and long arrows growing up to 120 cm. Beautifully shaped leaves remain green for a long time. Spherical umbrellas with a diameter of 15 cm consist of several dozen white star-shaped flowers. Cut inflorescences are used to make bouquets.
Round-headed onion 'Hair'. © Patrick Standish Decorative bow ‘Hair’- decorative onion with unique flowers and bluish leaves. Widely used in landscape flower beds and for cutting. The plant has a pleasant aroma, is easy to propagate, and is not difficult to cultivate. Ideal for containers, mass plantings, borders, and cuttings. Blooms from late spring for 3 weeks.
Decorative round-headed or ball-headed onion (Allium sphaerocephalon) is a very beautiful plant that can be planted in flower beds with other perennial herbs. It is also placed on lawns and lawns, as well as between or under fruit trees, as is often done in England. When planted in large groups, ball-headed onions look most impressive.
Schubert bow. © Simone Decorative Schubert bow (Allium schubertii) is so unusual that when you first see this plant, you will not immediately understand that it is an onion. Blooms in June. This plant is usually planted in the foreground of a rock garden, where it attracts attention with its originality. The bulbs are not frost-resistant, so they need shelter for the winter.
Chives are grown to produce juicy, tender greens that are richer in vitamins and minerals than the common onion. Young chives are eaten, usually fresh, as a component of salads and okroshkas. Many gardeners grow some varieties of chives as a flower crop due to their bright purple inflorescences and the ability to form dense clearings (sods) that prevent the germination of weeds. These varieties of chives are called decorative. The most popular representatives are curb and Moscow.
How to plant onions - planting features
Decorative varieties of chives are popular in landscape design. Since they are unpretentious and frost-resistant, they are used in the design of alpine slides, rockeries, winter gardens, mixborders and other types of landscaping. Caring for decorative chives both in the open field and at home is simple and unpretentious. The flower beds decorated with chives look very unusual and impressive in the photo. It’s difficult to even determine what is more attractive about this plant – the tasty, healthy greens or the bright flowering turf that decorates garden plots.
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Chives grown in open ground are eaten in early spring, as their greens age quickly enough. Popular vegetable varieties: bohemia and honey plant. The differences between the decorative and vegetable varieties can be seen in the photo. The beneficial properties of onions are expressed in the high content of vitamin C, carotene, proteins, carbohydrates and phytoncide in young greens. Fresh seasonal salads are prepared from chives, used as a seasoning for soups, and served as a side dish for meat and fish dishes. Chives are very popular in Italian and French cuisines. Both decorative and vegetable varieties of chives have beneficial properties.
The first pruning of greenery is done before the chives begin to bloom, since the very first greenery is tender and juicy; subsequent pruning is done as needed, usually 3-4 times per season. Later chives are also eaten, but they are already denser and tougher, so they are heat-treated before use.
When to plant chives seeds?
Chives are planted in open ground with seeds or bulbs in early spring. Before planting, the bulbs are treated in a solution of potassium permanganate; the seeds do not require additional treatment. To plant seeds, you need to make small beds in the soil at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other, no more than 5 cm deep. The soil should be moistened, then sow the seeds and cover with soil, and then moisten again. Sown chives do not require special care, since they grow well, while preventing weeds from growing.
Onions in the garden - growing on the windowsill
Using the vegetative method, chives are planted twice - at the beginning of spring and at the end of summer. To do this, adult bushes are dug up, the roots are freed from the ground and treated in a solution of potassium permanganate, after which the roots are carefully divided and planted in prepared holes. With the vegetative method of growing chives, onions quickly take root in a new place and do not require additional care. After removing the rough leaves, it grows back, but not as easily and quickly as the onion.
Chives are sown in the spring, when the soil has already warmed up slightly (the second half of April). The seeds of chives, like all other onions, must be kept in water for about a day before planting, remembering to rinse them with fresh water every 5-6 hours. The chives seeds are deepened by 1-2 cm, the row spacing is at least 20 cm. After sowing, the soil is slightly compacted and mulched. On poor soils, a one-time fertilizing is carried out with complex fertilizer; further care consists of removing weeds and watering if necessary.
It should be noted that it is not recommended to cut chives in the first year of cultivation: the young plant, if it is not sufficiently rooted, may die. Cutting greens for food can be started in the second year of cultivation.
How to propagate chives?
Chives are easily propagated by dividing the bush; this method is often used in early autumn when planting plants in pots or boxes to obtain vitamin-rich greenery on the windowsill in winter. To do this, parts of the bushes are planted in prepared containers with moist soil, without deepening the chives beyond the initial level. The soil is compacted and watered generously.
The photo shows the flowering period of chives - growing on a windowsill
Growing chives at home is very popular among gardeners, since this type of onion does not require special care and is perfect for gardening on a windowsill. You can grow chives at home all year round: in the summer on the balcony, and in the winter on the windowsill. High yield of chives, allows for 1 sq. m to plant about 10 kg. Decorative varieties of chives look very beautiful in the photo and in the winter garden among other flowering plants.
A container for planting at home is filled with an earthen mixture. It is better to give preference to a shallow, flat container. You need to add drainage to the bottom of the container, then a layer of about 5 cm of universal soil mixture. You can grow chives at home using both seeds and bulbs. For planting using the bulbous method, it is necessary to select small, healthy bulbs. Professional gardeners recommend pre-freezing the bulb and placing it in a cool, dry place before planting.
When planting chives in the autumn-winter period, low feather growth may be observed. To stimulate abundant growth, the bulb must first be kept in warm water at a temperature of 40 degrees C, and the upper part must be trimmed or cut crosswise. Before planting, the bulbs, both at home and in the garden, must be treated in a warm solution of potassium permanganate to avoid the occurrence of various diseases and rotting of the root system.
How to plant chives in a container?
Before planting chives, the prepared soil in the container must first be moistened, then the bulbs must be spread in a bridge manner at a distance of 1 cm from each other. After this, the container with the planted chives must be removed to a dark, cool place for several days, so that the plant takes root in the new place and takes root. Then you can place the strengthened chives on a well-lit, warm windowsill.
The photo shows onion care
The optimal temperature for growing chives on a windowsill is 20-25 degrees C. At lower temperatures, the bulbs will go into a dormant state, and at higher temperatures, the feathers produced will have a yellowish color and a dry appearance. At home, chives should be watered as the soil dries with settled water at room temperature. Chives grown at home should be fed once with mineral fertilizer.
As a rule, after 2-4 cuttings it is necessary to change the planting material. In order for the chives to remain juicy and green, they must be trimmed at a level of 3-4 cm from the bulb, making room for new greenery. Caring for chives at home is simple; it is enough to provide the plant with regular watering and sufficient lighting.
When growing chives at home on the windowsill, all the beneficial properties are preserved, which allows you to have a storehouse of vitamins on hand all year round. From all of the above, we can conclude that chives can be grown both in garden beds and in containers; it can be grown using seeds or by dividing bushes. The most favorable period for planting this onion variety is spring, when seedlings or seeds grow quickly. At home, it requires minimal care, but weeds and other pests may appear in the beds, which must be constantly combated.
If people had not once discovered this bitter vegetable, perhaps the whole history of mankind would have turned out differently.
The Egyptian slaves would not have built their pyramids - they would not have had the strength. Many conquering campaigns failed - warriors in foreign lands would have been mowed down not only by swords and arrows, but also by disease. Much later, great geographical discoveries would have been made, since travelers would not have achieved their goal, dying from scurvy and other diseases. And residents of northern latitudes would greet spring in a depressed state, suffering from vitamin deficiency and endless colds. Onions, which do not leave our table all year round, help, heal, feed, save from viruses and decorate life (with their decorative forms). And if grateful humanity erected monuments not only to animals, with the help of which scientific discoveries were made or nations were saved, but also to plants, the onion would definitely deserve a monument in its honor.
Onions are a valuable source of vitamins. It contains carotene, B, C, E, thiamine, biotin, riboflavin, nicotinic, folic and pantothenic acids. Onions are rich in sugars, mineral salts, and contain rare metals. The specific taste, smell and pungency are due to the presence of essential oils. We remember their presence when we start cutting onions.
Genus onion (Allium L.) is large enough. Today it includes 600 species of perennial herbaceous plants. There are about 10 species in culture. Interestingly, our most famous and most popular onion - onion (A. sulfur L.) was not found in the wild.
But there are many varieties of it in our country, which is not surprising: the best examples of folk selection have been selected for centuries. Entire regions still “live on onions”, feed themselves by growing their own local variety for sale, well adapted to growing conditions (“ Voronezhsky 86", "U Fima local", "Arzamas local"). The old Russian variety is still popular " Rostov onion". Cosmopolitan varieties (" Stuttgarter Riesen" And " Strigunovsky") are flexible, easily adapt to new conditions. It is worth taking a closer look at new breeding varieties (" Odintsovets", "Zolotnichok", "Chalcedony", "Ellan") and heterotic hybrids of foreign selection ( F1 Spirit, F1 Stardust, F1 Branko and etc.)
According to the ripening period, varieties are divided into early, middle and late. It is not difficult to find “your” onion both in taste (sharp, semi-sharp and sweet) and in color. This “grandfather” dresses not only in yellow-golden “fur coats,” but also in white and purple ones.
Traditionally, onions were cultivated as a biennial crop. In the first year, small onions (onion sets) were obtained from seeds (the so-called “nigella”). In the second year, a full-fledged turnip grew from the set. Now new varieties and hybrids have appeared that make it possible to produce turnip onions from seeds in central Russia in one season.
Long day culture; the area should be illuminated from sunrise to sunset.
It is demanding on soil fertility, prefers light and medium loams with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.
Pests and diseases: downy mildew, neck rot, onion fly
