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400 watts per hour. What is a kilowatt-hour, or how to calculate electricity. Alternative lighting sources

Power amplifier MOSFIT 400— at first glance, this device seems very simple and without any special features. During testing, this device showed excellent parametric characteristics, clear pleasant sound, ideal frequency response and fairly high efficiency. Having such parameters, this device can undoubtedly be placed on a par with HI-FI class equipment.

The photo below shows an amplifier circuit with an output power of 400 W, the voltage values ​​in the diagram are indicated relative to the current power supply ±50v. The line of power amplifiers made with mosfet transistors consists of four models with output powers of 100, 200, 300 and 400 W. All the circuits are not particularly different from each other; the only difference is in the output power. Technologically, it seems like this: in the final stage of PA 100, only one pair of powerful field-effect transistors is installed, and PA 400 already operates on four pairs of mosfet.

An operational amplifier is installed in the input circuit of the device; its purpose is to pre-amplify the input signal by voltage. The device is implemented using a two-half-wave circuit, each arm has its own Negative Feedback and operates in amplification mode. This circuit design made it possible to obtain solid power with a low voltage on the operational amplifier. In this regard, the efficiency of the amplifier has increased significantly. UM MOSFIT works cleanly and practically without distortion, thanks to the insignificant quiescent current, which is in the range of 30-40 mA, and the OOS suppresses the possibility of the so-called “step” distortion.

When assembling these models, you should pay attention to the preliminary amplification stage, where the current value is 18-22 mA, which means that the bipolar transistors involved in both arms must be installed on small radiators, as they can get a little warm. Heat sinks can be made from a strip of duralumin about 1 mm thick and approximately 22x42 mm in size.

Schematic diagram of the MOSFIT 400 amplifier

Assembled MOSFIT 400 amplifier board

The amplifier parameters are placed in the table

Greetings to all mysku readers.
Today there will be a review of a product that you have not yet seen on this resource; at least the special signal tag gave me more than ten flashlights, one headphones and one garland.
Details under the cut.

Usually I start with delivery, but now I won’t do this, since the seller sent the parcel via EMS and it reached me in about 10 days.
I lost the track number somewhere, but I know for sure that the seller sent it on April 21, and received the parcel in early May.
This seller has a lot of equipment that is strictly prohibited for ordinary mortals to install in Russia. For example, strobe lights, police chandeliers, special signals, etc. It follows from this that the review will be useful only to those who are purchasing equipment for special purposes. cars, but I don’t think there are any of those on the Musa, or there are only one or two people =)

Okay, let's move on to the review.

And so, the courier delivered the parcel directly to work, everything was perfectly packaged and was not damaged during transportation.
The special signal was in two cardboard boxes

The horn was in a larger box, as it has impressive dimensions.
The amplifier is correspondingly smaller in a box, but in addition to the amplifier, the box contained a set of wires for connection, a set of screws for mounting the amplifier, a spare fuse, a control panel with a cover, a charging unit for the remote control from the cigarette lighter, a charging cord and instructions.

Closer photo of the set =)

The instructions are in Chinese, but the connection diagram can be understood.

Instructions

Let's take a closer look at the amplifier.
The amplifier is made of metal and weighs approximately one kilogram.
The appearance resembles an ordinary car amplifier that is used to play music.
There is a sticker with a wiring diagram on the top of the amplifier.
There is a warning sticker and a barcode sticker on the bottom.

All main display and control elements are located at the ends.
At one end we have connectors for connection and fuses (two 15A each)

At the second end there are two LED indicators POW and Sleep, a reset button, a USB output for charging the control panel, a power button and an antenna.

The remote control is made of plastic, painted gold.
Looks a little cheesy.
There are 15 buttons on the control panel, 10 of which are responsible for signals, 2 are responsible for stroboscopes (two channels and only on and off, stroboscopes with their own control relay must be connected. If you connect ordinary light bulbs, they will only turn on and off by pressing a button)
1 mute button
1 remote control on/off button
And I didn’t figure out one button (RIO) Most likely it’s for strobes.

The remote control has a blue backlight.
You definitely won’t miss the buttons at night; the backlight is very bright.

Now let's move on to the horn.
There's nothing special about it.
The case is completely made of plastic, and there is a large magnet inside.
The weight of the horn is at least two kilograms.
I have everything about him, then only photos

I didn’t take a photo of the connection, but I can say that there is nothing complicated there.
There are 8 wires in the chip
4 of them go to horns, that is, two channels.
In my case there is 1 speaker, which means we are connecting to only two wires.
Two wires go to the indicator, which I also did not connect.
And the remaining two wires are + (red) and - (black).

After connecting, we went to test the special signal away from unnecessary ears.
Otherwise, you never know, they’ll suddenly rent it out =)

The video will be at the end.

Let me summarize briefly.
Pros:
- Loud
- Remote control up to approximately 50 meters
- Ability to control strobes
Minuses:
- Horn dimensions
Don't kick me too hard for the video =)
You can see how the special signal works from 6.03 =)

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

I haven’t written in the electrical engineering section for a long time. I decided to correct this situation a little and prepared for you a short review article on the topic of how many watts are in a kilowatt.

Almost every electrical appliance (microwave oven, iron, refrigerator, washing machine, electric motor, etc.) has a power value indicated on the body or in the passport, which is expressed in watts or kilowatts.

But first, a little history.

Do you know who James Watt is? This is a very famous engineer-inventor originally from Ireland. This is what he looked like.

It is in his honor that the unit of power measurement - Watt - is named. By the way, even before 1882 such a unit did not exist, and power was measured in horsepower. After some time, namely in 1960, the unit “Watt” was included in the International System of Units (SI).

As electricians, we are more interested in electrical power. According to the formula from physics, it is clear that power is energy consumption (J) for a certain time (sec).

Converting watt to kilowatt

Let's move on to an example. The power of my washing machine is 2100 (W). How many kilowatts is this?

To convert watts to kilowatts, you need to divide the value 2100 (W) by 1000, we get 2.1 (kW). To explain it even simpler, you need to move the comma three places to the left.

A few more examples:

• 15400 (W) = 15.4 (kW)
• 2800 (W) = 2.8 (kW)
• 700 (W) = 0.7 (kW)
• 32 (W) = 0.032 (kW)
• 5 (W) = 0.005 (kW)
• 0.2 (W) = 0.0002 (kW)

Convert kilowatt to watt

On electric motor tags, power is most often indicated not in watts, but in kilowatts.

In this example, the motor power is 0.55 (kW). To convert kilowatts to watts, you need to multiply the value of 0.55 (kW) by 1000, we get 550 (W). To explain it even simpler, you need to move the comma three places to the right.

More examples:

• 23 (kW) = 23000 (W)
• 4.2 (kW) = 4200 (W)
• 0.4 (kW) = 400 (W)
• 0.07 (kW) = 70 (W)
• 0.004 (kW) = 4 (W)

The difference between kilowatt and kilowatt hour

In almost every apartment. It counts the power we consume and displays readings in the form of “kilowatt hour” on the display or counting mechanism.

There is no need to confuse these two names - kilowatt and kilowatt hour, because these are completely different quantities.

I gave the definition of kilowatt at the beginning of the article. Now let's figure out what a kilowatt-hour is. A kilowatt-hour is the energy consumption (J) over a period of one hour.

Let's assume that she worked for exactly one hour. Thus, the electric energy meter will calculate the consumption as 2100 (W) 1 (hour) = 2100 (Watt hour) = 2.1 (kW hour).

And if it is turned on for 5 hours, then the consumption will be 2100 (W) 5 (hour) = 10500 (Watt hour) or 10.5 (kW hour).

• with a single-rate tariff, we multiply 315 (kWh) by 2.95 (rubles/kWh) = 929.25 (rubles)
• with a two-rate tariff in the daytime 315 (kWh) by 2.97 (rubles/kWh) = 935.55 (rubles)
• with a two-rate tariff at night 315 (kWh) by 1.4 (rub./kWh) = 441 (rub.)

This suggests the conclusion that after all, purchasing a two-tariff meter.

P.S. In principle, this is all I wanted to tell you. If you have questions for me, ask them in the comments to this article. Thank you for your attention.

In this article I will present real figures and instrument readings on the power and energy production of my solar, or rather wind-solar power plant of small capacity (dacha option). First, a few photos so you can understand and appreciate what a solar power plant looks like.

Below in the photo (left) is a wooden tower 6 meters high, on which four 100 W solar panels and a wind generator are installed. On the right side of the photo is the inside of the power plant, these are batteries, charge controller, inverters, etc.

I remove the wind generator for the summer as it is unnecessary, since there is enough energy from the solar panels and there is no need for energy from the wind, the controller still stops the windmill and it stops. Therefore, there will be figures only for energy production from solar panels only. Below in the table I have provided data on energy production from solar panels of 400 W, and their maximum continuous power.

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These data apply specifically to my solar power plant, Samara region. The numbers are averages based on observations of the wattmeter and controller readings. The solar MPPT controller adds approximately 15-20% energy compared to the previous PWM controller.

In winter, energy production is very poor, especially in December, this month there are only 4-6 sunny days, and there is no sun at all for two weeks in a row. In January it was a little better in the second half. At this time, up to half of all energy is provided by a wind generator, up to 5-8 kW per month. Although there are no special winds, my average annual wind speed is around 2.6 m/s. The wind is good only when the weather changes, and then the windmill shows all its power up to 600 W, below is the video of the windmill working in strong winds.

And so it either stands or barely spins, producing 10-30 W periodically, and in a day it accumulates 70-200 Wh*. The total energy production in winter from wind and sun is 16-22 kWh per month.

In the summer, already at the beginning of March, daylight hours increase significantly and the number of sunny days increases, and then the need for a wind generator disappears. Solar panels are guaranteed to cover my energy consumption, which in winter is 18-20 kW per month. And in the summer, consumers add a refrigerator and a water pump, and consumption increases by 1.5-2 times. Also often used are power tools, a small grinder, a jigsaw, and a screwdriver. But less energy is spent on lighting. Now every day the consumption is approximately 1.2 kWh, and per month up to 35-40 kWh.

In winter, by the way, my solar panels provide more power in the sun, this is due to the winter slope and cold, plus the reflection of the sun's rays from the snow. But the daylight hours are short and production begins at 10 o’clock in the morning and by 4 o’clock in the evening the sun sets. There is also a moment when solar panels produce more than their nominal value. This happens in winter when the sun comes out from behind the clouds and for a short time the panels produce more than their nominal value. I captured this moment on video.

I think from these data it is clear what a real low-power power plant provides. This is, of course, very little by modern standards, but for me personally it’s enough. For now it’s enough even with a reserve, but in the future I will gradually increase both the amount of energy consumed and the power of the power plant. And so, in general, in winter, together with a windmill, the output is about 20 kW per month, and in the summer, without a windmill, the output is 40 kW per month.

Separately, I would like to note that in relation to the power of solar batteries, my batteries have a fairly large capacity, and this allows me to survive for several days in winter using the accumulated energy without sun and wind. And so the batteries are cycled less, and the depth of discharge is less. I don’t discharge batteries below 12.0V, and charge them more fully, up to 14.7V, and not like some up to 13.8-14V. Car batteries generally should be charged at least once every 2-3 months to 15.7-16.2V, as written in the instruction manual.

If you are interested in the question of how many watts are in a kilowatt, then you will find the answer by reading this article. What is a watt? It is a unit adopted by the International System of Measurement (SI). It got its name thanks to a mechanic-inventor of Scots-Irish origin who created a universal steam engine. Until 1882, most calculations used horsepower as the basic unit of measurement, and only after the invention of mechanics, a new unit of power, the watt, was adopted everywhere (primarily in electrical engineering). In physics, power is a process per unit of time; accordingly, one watt will be equal to one joule per second (W = J/s).

How many watts are in a kilowatt

People are constantly faced with the concept of electrical power in everyday life. All household appliances have a value indicated in their passport. Even the elementary one on the glass bulb says: 40 W, 60 W, 100 W, etc. As for a microwave oven or washing machine, the value in question here will be much higher: 500-1000 W and 2-2.5 kW respectively.

As with other physical quantities, the prefix “kilo” means a multiple of a thousand. That is, the numerical value of power, measured in kilowatts, must be multiplied by 1000 or the decimal point moved to the right by three digits: this way we get the value of electrical power in watts.

Thus, to the question of how many watts are in a kilowatt, we received a clear answer: there are a thousand watts in one kilowatt (1 kW = 1000 W). Next, we will look at examples of recording electrical power. Here are some examples of how to translate the indicated quantities:

• 2.5 kW = 2500 W.
• 0.2 kW = 200 W.
• 3.095 kW = 3095 W.

Sometimes it is necessary to convert a unit of power expressed in watts into kilowatts. We remember how many watts are in a kilowatt, so we divide the known value by a thousand. Or move the comma sign three digits to the left.

• 2750 W = 2.7 kW.
• 70 W = 0.07 kW.
• = 0.15 kW.

Let's look at the concept of “kilowatt-hour”

In kilowatt-hours (or in watt-hours) the device is measured for one hour of operation. As an example, let's take a regular computer with a power of 0.65 kW. Let's assume he worked for one hour. How can I find out how much electricity it has consumed during this period? It’s very simple: multiply 0.65 kW by 1 hour of operation, we get 0.65 kWh. An ordinary 100-watt incandescent lamp consumes 100 W of energy in one hour, therefore, per day of continuous operation it will consume 2.4 kW. How many watts are in kW, we have already discussed above.

Main household consumers of electricity

Nowadays, even wealthy people have begun to think about saving energy - they are abandoning incandescent lamps and replacing them with energy-efficient light bulbs or LED ones. When choosing household appliances, the main parameter that you especially pay attention to is the efficiency of the devices. In every house or apartment you can find such equipment as a refrigerator, TV, computer, iron, electric kettle. Let's consider the mentioned units. The refrigerator usually operates around the clock, its energy consumption rate will be from 0.7 to 1.3 kW per day - everything will depend on the size of the device and the ambient temperature. A computer, provided it has not been turned off, can consume up to 13.5 kW per day. On average, a TV consumes 2.5 kW in 24 hours. However, the biggest “spenders” are heating devices: electric kettles, boilers, electric stoves and others. For example, an electric kettle consumes 1-1.2 kW in 20-25 minutes, which can be compared to a continuously running refrigerator. How much electricity do you consume?

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