≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

Block house inside the house: features of use and finishing technology. Photo examples. Exterior decoration of the house with a block house - a wonderful transformation Which block house to choose for interior decoration

A wooden house in the "rural" area looks as natural and attractive as a brick house in the city. Especially when round logs serve as the material for the walls. But a log is not cheap, and a lot of time must pass in order for the house to shrink and finishing work can be carried out. Therefore, other materials and technologies are often used. And in order to create a reliable imitation of a log house, they choose a block house for the exterior of the house.

Source minsk.deal.by

Block house as a type of facade lining

According to its purpose, method of fastening and connection, the block house is a kind of "lining".

In fact, the production technology can be imagined as sawing out a log from a rounded log, as a result of which four “slabs” with a regular spherical surface will remain - they serve as a blank for a block house. It remains only to cut the spike on one side, on the other - trim and cut the groove. And of course, grooves must be made on the wrong side to relieve internal stress in the wood.

In addition to this, there is a manufacturing technology from “standard” lumber - boards or timber. But due to the large amount of waste, its cost will be higher than that of the traditional one.

Such a cutter cuts a block house from a bar or board Source rezec.com.ua

If we talk about grade, then there are no domestic standards for this type of lumber. But in practice, manufacturers have developed their own classification, according to which there are three “pure” options and two “mixed” options.

"Pure" options are A, B, C.

Grade "A" differs from "B" in the number of healthy knots per 1 m, their allowable diameter (15 mm versus 20 mm) and the absence of "black" knots and cracks. For grade "B" small and short cracks are allowed, plus a small amount of "black", but not dropping knots.

Grades "C" and "BC" are not used for finishing houses, they are suitable for building fences or finishing outbuildings somewhere in the backyard.

Sheathing board is just lumber - the requirements for its quality are the same as for other works Source infinica.ru

For the exterior cladding of a house with a block house, panels with a thickness of at least 30 mm are taken. And due to the peculiarities of massive lumber, it is almost impossible to find a “perfectly” clean block house 4-6 m long, so a “mixed” grade “AB” appeared. In addition, even during storage of lumber, small defects in the form of shallow cracks may appear.

Sometimes there is another classification borrowed from European manufacturers: "Extra" ("Prima"), "A" "B" "C". If we draw parallels, then "Extra" will be the "pure" grade "A".

With such a length, it is impossible to find a panel “without a hitch”, and for facade cladding it is not necessary Source doski-v-spb.ru

Advice! Since there are no standards for a block house, manufacturers are free to assign any grade to their products. Therefore, when buying, you need to make sure that the declared quality meets your requirements.

Wood Selection Criteria

Even Block House vinyl siding has certain features that indicate the quality of facade panels. Wood is a “thinner” material, and the durability of the outer cladding largely depends on the right choice. Therefore, it is not enough to assess the conformity of the variety - the density, resistance to moisture and strength of wood are important.

To decorate the house with a block house, only conifers are used. Hardwoods (linden, oak, ash) are used for interior wall cladding.

Larch is considered an elite material and its qualities a priori correspond to the conditions of outdoor use: high humidity and exposure to precipitation. The density and strength of Russian larch, like the northern tree species (it still grows in Siberia), will also be at a high level.

Larch has dense and durable wood, so it is not in vain that it belongs to the elite of conifers. Source pilomateriali-fanera.ru

Pine is not so clear. Most of all, northern pine is suitable for facade decoration - its strength and density are much higher than that of wood from warm regions. And they determine the origin of the pine block house by the distance between the annual rings - the closer they are to each other, the better. The quality criterion is at least three rings per 1 cm of the end cut.

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer finishing and insulation services for houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

How to choose the width

There are criteria for choosing the diameter of rounded logs, depending on the purpose and size of the house.

When building a small house for seasonal residence (dacha, summer house), a log with a diameter of up to 220 mm is used, the visible part of which lies within 150-180 mm.

For a "full-sized" heated house, the minimum log diameter is 240 mm, the recommended one is 260-280 mm. And the visible part is 190-210 mm.

To keep the "proportions", the width of the block house must correspond to the visible part of the log:

• for a cottage - 140-150 mm (with a thickness of 28-36 mm);
• for a large house - 190 mm and above (with a thickness of 36-45 mm).

Source makebestphoto.ru

Sheathing options

The installation method of the block house is the only one - on a vertical crate with a horizontal arrangement of panels.

Crate is needed in any case. Even when sheathing a wooden house, and it is possible to attach the panels directly to the wall, a ventilation gap is needed to vent moisture (otherwise the wood will start to rot).

The issue of insulation is decided depending on the seasonality of residence and wall materials. If this is a "summer" house, then the insulation is not carried out. It is also possible not to install heat-insulating materials when the house is built using frame technology or from foam concrete blocks 40 cm thick.

Sheathing during the construction of the "framework", as another option for using a block house Source el.decorexpro.com

In other cases, wall insulation is mandatory - the costs will quickly pay off due to savings on heating and air conditioning.

Mounting Features

Despite belonging to the lining, the methods of fastening to the crate with the external sheathing of the house with a block house are different than when carrying out internal work.

Inside, narrow modifications of panels of small thickness (up to 20-22 mm) are used, and operating conditions are distinguished by the stability of humidity and temperature. Therefore, the block house can be fixed to the crate using flush-mounted fasteners - kleimers. The exterior finish is carried out with a thick and wide cladding board, in which, with changes in humidity, such internal stress forces arise that it can simply be pulled out of engagement.

Video description

Visually about the decoration of the block house, see the video:

The second reason that does not allow the use of kleimers for external cladding is the way the block house is located on the facade. The groove for which the bracket “clings” should look down (so that moisture does not get into it). And with this orientation, the installation of panels on the clamps can only be carried out from top to bottom.

Therefore, the outer skin is carried out in one of two ways:

1. open. The panel is screwed to each beam at two points - from the side of the groove and closer to the spike. Before fastening, holes are drilled into which screws are screwed in with force so that their heads do not protrude above the surface of the panel. Then these places are puttied, disguised as a small knot. This mounting method is the most reliable and is recommended for thick and wide block houses.
2. Hidden. The bottom panel near the groove is fixed in an open way, plus holes are drilled at the base of the spike at an angle of 45 °, into which self-tapping screws are screwed. Each next row of the block house (except the last one) is fixed only through the spike. The top row is fixed in an open way.

Source hi.decoratex.biz

Note. Due to fluctuations in humidity, the tree changes its size across the fibers - it swells or dries out. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that during installation there is a small gap between the stop of the groove of the upper row and the spike of the lower one. If the workers miss this nuance, then over time the wall will deform.

Design features

Sheathing the facade of a house from a block house is more difficult than from imitation timber or planken. The reason is in the features of the "volumetric" lumber. Panels with a radius surface are more difficult to fit together.

Source es.decorexpro.com

The most accurate way to increase the length is considered to be the “counter” washed down the house block at an angle of 45 °.

But more often they use a simpler option - a flashing in the form of a rail or board. The place for it is chosen in such a way that it looks natural and is common to all connected panels.

Lath flashings and corners - the easiest way to close the joints Source it.decorexpro.com

Corner joints are also made in a similar way - by connecting through a gash at a corner or by an overlay of two rails.

The final stage of sheathing is surface grinding and varnishing or colorless paint.

Video description

See the video for examples of finishing the facade with a block house:

Conclusion

As a result, based on the foregoing, it is clear that decorating a house with a block house is more difficult than with any other facade panels. To be sure of the quality and durability of the skin, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

The modern construction market is in constant improvement. There are very convenient products for the repair and decoration of houses. Many of them can be used to cover walls from the inside and outside. Finishing with a block house - a relatively new material - became possible only a few years ago. Let's get to know her better.

Method for manufacturing a finishing structure

There are enough analogues among finishing building materials. So, a block house can be compared with eurolining. The starting material for the manufacture of the latter is a flat board. At the heart of the new product is a whole log.

Block-house "Wood" is a design obtained on machines designed for wood processing. The technology of its production consists in the implementation of the "square in a circle" scheme. The initial material - a log - is processed to obtain a square profile. Cut planes with a semicircular shape are a blank for the production of a block house.

1. For the manufacture of the block house panel, natural material is used - wood, with high quality characteristics.
2. The ease and simplicity of connecting structural elements to each other gives it a significant advantage over its counterpart - eurolining.
3. Sheathing with a block house gives the house the appearance of a log texture.
4. Ease of assembly and a well-thought-out system for connecting panels to each other allow you to do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Types and purpose of the block house

A wooden modern finishing element of the block house is produced in various sizes. Dimensions and thickness determine the directions of its application:

• The panel for exterior finishes has a width of 19 cm or more, its thickness must be at least 3.6 cm.
• The block house for the room has a narrower shape. The width of such elements can be no more than 9 cm.
• A wide block house - outdoor - is used not only in the decoration of houses. For all building structures that require insulation that matches the external design, this material can be used.

In addition to various types of wood, the production of a block house made of plastic and metal has been established, and, of course, they differ in cost. So, if you take a vinyl block house under a log, its price will start from 200 rubles per square meter. This very light material, used for cladding pavilions and summer cafes, is in great demand.

And for a metal block house, the price is less than for natural wood products, but higher than the vinyl counterpart - from 500 rubles per square meter.

Features and advantages of a block house

Those who, when starting to build a house, seek the possibility of saving, you can offer its foundations from cheaper materials, followed by facing the finished house with a finishing material that imitates natural. Of all the many proposals, the most popular and relatively inexpensive is considered to be a block house finish.

Block house panels have many advantages:

• High strength, resistance to mechanical damage.
• Aesthetic appearance of the room after
• Sufficiently light in weight, the panel does not create a large load on the foundation of the house, the foundation.
• It serves as a good protection for the structure of the house, helps to preserve heat inside it.
• Provides quality finishing of facades of houses, baths, cellars, arbors.
• It is resistant to temperature extremes, without the consequences of the appearance of external defects in the form of cracks, distortions, thanks to the waxing technology.

In addition, today, finishing a house with a block house requires less financial costs compared to other analogues with similar characteristics.

Disadvantages of facing material

Like any building product, a block house also has some disadvantages:

1. Despite the simple principles of installation, observance of the cladding technology is mandatory so that there are no costs in the form of deformation processes.
2. Low vapor permeability. As a result of its impact, condensation may accumulate on the inner surface of the panel.
3. Ultraviolet radiation reduces the life of the block house.
4. Block house panels can be used as a decorative cladding material. There are no insulation characteristics for this material. If finishing with a block house with insulation is required, it is necessary to use additional heaters - natural or synthetic.
5. Mandatory care is required during operation, as dust, dirt settled on the surface will spoil the overall appearance.
6. High degree of flammability.

Panels for exterior cladding

The block house comes to the market in plastic packaging. The choice of the basis of the material is quite diverse. According to his preference, the customer can choose panels from pine, spruce, larch or oak.

Board dimensions are as follows:

• board length - 2 m or 6 m;
• width and thickness vary - at 90mm wide, the thickness is 20mm, a 140mm wide board is 30mm thick, and a wider panel is 45mm thick.

Currently, the finishing panel comes to the consumer in a form ready for installation, that is, it is equipped with the necessary fasteners. A block house in this design greatly simplifies and speeds up surface cladding.

Preparing for sheathing

Getting started with the wood view of the panels, you need to perform some preliminary operations:

1. Treatment of wooden elements with an antiseptic preparation that prevents wood decay, and additional treatment with a fire retardant, which will increase resistance to fire and mold. Currently, the manufacturer is releasing material that has already undergone such processing for sale.
2. The film is attached around the perimeter of the house with a slight overlap, fastening it with staples, using
3. On top of the vapor barrier, a crate is equipped using beams for this. They are fastened to a facade made of wood or clay with self-tapping screws, and they are used for a brick base. The bars are fixed after checking their horizontal position with a level. It serves as the basis for the installation of the block house.

Tools and fasteners for facade installation

The metal block house, the price of which is much higher than other types of panels, has gained popularity due to the external effect of the facades of private houses. To cope with the lining of this material with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists, you need to have basic knowledge in construction, the ability to use tools.

So, before starting work, you need to make sure that you have the necessary tools, fasteners and materials:

• staple fiberglass and fibrous thermal insulation material (mineral wool) to provide heat retention, sound reduction and vapor barrier (used in the form of plates);
• special materials to protect walls and insulation from moisture. The most practical is foil kraft paper or film;
• wooden bars for forming the crate (the dimensions of these elements: 40 x 50 mm, 30 x 50 mm);
• hammer for working with galvanized nails;
• drill with screwdriver functions;
• a tool for sizing wooden parts, a saw, a jigsaw or a simple hacksaw;
• water building level;
• construction stapler for fastening insulating materials;
• fasteners: self-tapping screws, nails, kleimers.

Facade cladding steps

Installation of block-house panels on external walls is carried out on a prepared surface. The operation is the same for all types of this facing material:

1. Before starting work, a vinyl block house under a log, the price of which is affordable for middle-income homeowners, is laid out indoors to adapt the material to the environment. This procedure should be applied to any type of block house panels to eliminate shrinkage and the possibility of warping the finished skin. It is recommended to do it only in summer dry weather. In winter, block-house sheathing is allowed only inside heated rooms.
2. The surface of the walls must be cleaned of old cladding and dirt.
3. The prepared surface of the facade is covered with a vapor barrier material, attaching it to the wall with construction tape.
4. On top of the vapor barrier layer, using wooden bars measuring 50x50 mm, the crate is installed. It is fastened to a brick surface with dowels, and self-tapping screws are used for a wooden facade.
5. The wooden crate should be treated with special preparations that protect the tree from decay and insect pests;
6. Thermal insulation plates are placed in the cells of the crate and a moisture-absorbing film is attached to it.
7. An additional crate is made from bars measuring 30x40 mm. This is necessary to ensure ventilation between the layers of heat, steam, moisture insulation and the cladding of the block house.
8. Block house panels begin to be laid from above, after marking the boundaries of the area intended for work. The first element is mounted on the wall strictly horizontally, as it represents the basis of the skin. This is checked using the building level.
9. Finishing the facade with a block house requires the arrangement of panels with grooves down, which will prevent moisture from entering under the skin, protect its interior from decay and increase its service life.
10. The following component panels are mounted by placing the tenon into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. They are to the crate with screws or nails, being careful not to damage the part.
11. On the finished skin, additional measures are taken to mask the fasteners with plugs and paste prepared by mixing sawdust and glue.

Panels can be fastened with self-tapping screws and nails, followed by their masking procedure. The second version of the assembly is carried out using kleimers - special metal plates with a platform with a mounting bracket to fix one of the adjacent parts of the groove.

Block house elements have holes for self-tapping screws or nails and a foot for installing the block house spike into the groove of the previous panel. Preparing the installation of the block house on the kleimers, consists in attaching the latter to the crate.

Decoration of the outer corner of the facade with a block house

The cladding of the facade is completed by the design of the corners. The complexity of this stage lies in the fact that when connecting the panels end-to-end, a special sawing of the ends of the block house is required. This operation requires the use of a special tool. In addition, a tight joint will create the problem of free deformation of the panels when the ambient temperature changes. That is, only specialists can join the corners of the block house on the facade.

When doing work on your own, it is more expedient to use ready-made docking elements - planks and corners. With these details, you can close the joints of the block house at the corners of the facade. Attached with a special adhesive, they will hermetically close the joint and perform a decorative function.

Another option is a rounded wooden beam, 50x50 mm.

Decoration of platbands

Another necessary operation when facing a house is the design of platbands. This element of the house performs a dual function:

1. Window decoration, facade decoration, creating the individuality of the exterior of the house.
2. Masking gaps, an additional way to insulate the interior space of the room, protecting it from drafts of dust and moisture.

In order for the facade to have a complete look, windows and entrance doors are framed with platbands. They can be flat, semicircular and curly. They fix the structure in the usual way, framing the windows with overhead strips. The second method is more advanced, has a special design with protrusions designed for attachment to the window frame.

Rules for the care of facade cladding

Block house, after completion of installation work, it is necessary to prepare for long-term operation. For this, the following is done:

• surface treatment of the material with colorless antiseptics and stains based on wax or alcohol;
• coating with varnish or special paint designed to protect wood from the effects of ultraviolet dried base layer;
• sanding a completely dry coating;
• additional surface treatment with a layer of varnish (paint).

The performed operations will allow to protect the casing of the house from the influence of external climatic conditions, to extend its service life.

The block house for interior decoration after completion of the work is subjected to a similar treatment five years later, after a preliminary inspection of the coating. The detected damage must be eliminated before updating the surface of the facade.

A block house is a special type of house cladding that looks like a wagon board, on the one hand, which looks like a high-quality rounded log. Possessing high practical and aesthetic characteristics, the block house is the most demanded material today, and it is used both outside the house and inside. The main advantage of the material is the presence of a thorn-groove connecting system, so each owner can sheathe the house with a block house without much hassle.

When should this finish be used?

As a rule, if the building is made of bricks, sheets, slabs or blocks, there are no questions about why sheathe your house with clapboard. But what about a wooden frame? Definitely sheathe, here's why:

1. In the case of building a log house "in the paw" inside the house, finishing will be required, the block house is ideal for this.
2. If the log house was built from profiled timber, the finish will help achieve the “Russian hut” style and additionally protect the wall panels from negative impacts.
3. For all buildings, a block house is an ideal finishing material that will last for many years, while it is easy to place additional heat-insulating material under the cladding.

Important! All cladding work can be carried out only after complete shrinkage of the structure.

When choosing a product on the market, you should be careful, many manufacturers offer a false log - an option that is not equipped with connecting grooves, which creates certain difficulties during installation. In the case of sheathing a house with a block house with your own hands, the procedure is simple, of course, if you do not have to create intricate designs.

Finishing: work in stages

How to sheathe a house with cladding, we will understand this in detail:

1. First, the preparatory work, which consists in creating a preliminary crate. It will come in handy both inside the house and outside, depending on which areas get off.
2. Square bars 30 * 30 mm are stuffed vertically in increments of 0.5-0.6 m, fastening can be done with nails, planks and do not forget about the processing of the bar.
3. At this stage, it is worth deciding on the need for additional insulation and be sure to align the installation of the crate with a level.
4. Once the crate on the walls is ready, proceed with the installation of the block house. Regardless of the type and type of panels, fastening always starts from the bottom to the top.

As for fixing the slats, there are two ways:

1. Using Galvanized Claymore, which is bent into a groove with one part, the other is attached to the crate bar using a screw. After that, the panel is linked to the next one and the process is repeated. The positive aspects of the type of fastening are the strength and reliability of the masonry. Sometimes it is acceptable to use liquid nails to enhance strength. At the same time, the panel itself does not require screws and nails, so the risk of panel deformation is reduced to zero. Watch videos from professionals to understand the whole process in detail.
2. The second option involves fastening the panel to the lathing bar with self-tapping screws. To do this, you need to make a hole in the board equal to half its thickness. After that, a screw is heated into the hole, and then the hole is caulked flush with the board, as shown in the video. Now the block house is securely fixed, while the screw head is not visible. The method is laborious and there is a risk of damage to the lamella during installation.

Advice! If you have extensive experience in facing work, you can apply the option of driving nails into the groove of the board at an angle of 45 degrees. The method is complex, requires skill and a minimal shift of the nail immediately injures the lamella.

There are several difficulties that a home master who wants to decorate the walls inside the house with a do-it-yourself block house can meet:

• Docking panels in the corners. It is better to use special corners of the plinth, fitting parts of the lamellas under them. To do this, both walls of the corner are driven out, then the joint is hidden with a semicircular or flat element and fastened with liquid nails.
• Particularly sharp corners should be hidden behind a wooden rail; it can be decorative if it is an interior decoration and plain in color if an external facade is clad.
• Laying a panel fitted to the ceiling can also complicate the process a bit. If the ceiling is not finished, then in the process of facing all the irregularities will hide later, and if the ceiling is finished, the decorative cornice will skillfully hide the cracks.
• Window openings and doors require the use of special platbands. Thus, all cracks and backlashes are hidden, and the risk of snow, rain and wind entering the room is minimized. Platbands can be mounted on nails, glue, self-tapping screws.

Regardless of the choice of technology, there is no need to carefully prepare the walls for cladding with a block house. The crate can be stuffed on old paint, plaster, uneven panels, the main thing is that the frame holds well, and everything else will be covered with a block house.

After completing the installation, it is better to walk with varnish on the surface. In addition to additional protection, tinted varnish will give the building the desired color scheme and complement the interior if the rooms in the house were tiled.

Features of facing with a wooden block house

Wooden cladding requires its own technological subtleties:

1. Do not use ordinary nails, self-tapping screws - they will quickly rust. It is best to use galvanized metal fasteners.
2. The construction of the frame is an obligatory step; under the cladding, you can lay a heater, a vapor-permeable and windproof membrane.
3. As soon as the installation of the crate is completed, the panels are laid out according to one of the methods described earlier.
4. To prevent the possible process of decay, damage to the wooden block house, the panels should be treated with compositions at least once every 5-6 years.

As a rule, a block house goes well with the decoration of the basement with artificial stone, natural stone or slab finishing materials. The combination of siding and block house looks good.

Finishes

There is a variant of cladding made of plastic, wood, metal:

1. wooden blockhouse it is made of coniferous wood and has class A or B. The latter is characterized by the presence of cracks and cannot be used for exterior cladding - such material will spoil the very first winter.

Important! To choose a good material, it is worth looking at the thermal regime and strength. If these are strips with a “winter” indicator, then the strength of the material meets all the requirements of the customer: the panels will not crack, deform or peel off from frost.

1. Metal blockhouse- a new material that is devoid of the disadvantages of wood, but does not at all differ in the warmth and naturalness of wood.
2. Vinyl blockhouse- the most demanded product in the market of finishing materials. The low price and high quality indicators made the products in demand. In this case, the developer can always choose the right shade. And if it is a stable manufacturer and supplier, the vinyl block house will stand flawlessly for decades without losing its original qualities.

Knowing how to sheathe a house with clapboard, after looking at the photo and choosing the appropriate decor option, it remains only to clarify how much the material costs and proceed to facing the facade, the internal walls of the premises of your house. As you can see, the sheathing does not carry any difficulties, special tools and special knowledge are not required: to give the house a perfect look and achieve it with minimal investment - this is the main task that can be solved with the help of "American lining", as the block house is also called.

Eco-friendly houses made of natural materials have become very popular in recent decades. One of the most common are traditional wooden buildings. Such structures are suitable both as a summer cottage or a capital cottage for year-round living, and for small office buildings.

And enthusiasts say that it is worth using a practical block house.

Why wooden houses often need cladding

Houses made of any wooden building material have long been a priority among citizens. The leaders of sales in this segment are profiled or glued beams, logs. Such materials are already dried, equipped with saw cuts, connecting elements, and prepared to the maximum for the construction of reliable walls.

Supporters of naturalism prefer to use a traditional log, which implies a long period of shrinkage of the structure - with this method, the flaws in the blanks will always be in sight. In this case, sheathing the house with a block house is recommended no earlier than a year or two after the completion of construction.

The walls of self-built houses often have visible defects or need additional insulation, since the climate in most regions of the country is very unstable. It would be quite a reasonable step to clad a wooden structure on the outside, which does not reduce the usable space of the premises and gives the building a special charm. Exterior wall decoration for frame houses is necessary - this method will create a cozy atmosphere inside the building and ennoble its appearance from the outside.

A separate category is capital old buildings, which lose their external attractiveness and become less comfortable. Additional presentable wall protection will extend the life of the house: it will protect against precipitation, mechanical damage. The insulation is laid outside and combined with a hydro-barrier, and the surface of the old tree is cleaned of paint, varnishes, covered with antiseptic compounds. Diligent owners can do all the work with their own hands.

Block house: advantages, species diversity and selection rules

Block house is considered the most successful and presentable type of wall paneling. Its environmental friendliness is undeniable. Most often, softwood is used as the starting material for panels. Many consumers are attracted by the ability of lamellas for many years to release phytoncides that inhibit the development of bacteria.

Strength, excellent insulating properties in combination with maintaining natural air exchange are arguments that can be decisive when choosing a facing material. Also important is the ease of installation of the structure - any craftsman can do it with his own hands - and the absence of "wet" work.

Professionals note that the pine block house is indispensable for the external cladding of the walls of a residential building, but for saunas and baths, dense hardwood panels will be a rational choice. In order to choose the best variety and not be disappointed in the material, you need to decide on the price category before the start of purchases:

• Class A - an elite block house of excellent quality without the slightest error. It remains the most expensive and very presentable.
• Class B - implies the presence of minor knots - up to 3 cm - on the front side, which, with a skillful arrangement, can even decorate the facade. And on the back side, small chips are acceptable.
• Class B - the number of knots and their configuration is not regulated.

The grade of material for the walls is selected depending on the purpose of the building and the aesthetic preferences of each. If you plan to build a house with your own hands, then when choosing lamellas on your own, you should carefully examine each segment and put aside specimens with cracks and mold.

Masters draw the attention of beginners to special nuances: the closer the lines of annual rings are to each other, the stronger and denser the wood. The implementation of sheathing with a blockhouse of the building from the outside involves a wider modification of the board - about 150 mm.

Sheathing the house with a block house is made on a prepared frame, which is easy to build with your own hands from slats or ordinary boards. A similar crate is located along the walls in increments of 500-700 mm. And the resulting gap is great for laying insulating materials. The layer thickness is calculated depending on the region. For example: in winter, the thermometer shows from -8 to -12 o, which means that a five-centimeter thickness of the material is enough.

If you plan to use mineral wool, then the step is selected in proportion to the existing plates. And in front of the block house panels there is a layer of wind protection. Any type of waterproofing will extend the life of the base material.

To do the work with your own hands, you will need a screwdriver, which can be replaced with a conventional drill. A square, saw or grinder with a set of disks will also come in handy.

When constructing the frame, plumb lines and levels are used - the rails must be installed strictly vertically. Only in this case, the lining will have the correct geometric shapes. If samples of class B or C are available, then before work, you need to scrupulously inspect them and plan the location of the panels. Defects should be masked with a special putty. Any block house is treated with impregnations.

It is important to correctly cut the material, carefully measuring all the parameters of the walls with your own hands, taking into account the presence of door and window openings.

For sheathing the outer walls of a wooden structure, the block house is laid horizontally. The spikes should be located on top: in this way they will protect the grooves from rainwater. Sealed connection - "thorn-groove" ensures the tightness of the structure.

Experienced craftsmen prefer to build corners by perfectly washing down the lamellas at an angle of 45 degrees. And for those who do such work for the first time with their own hands, it is worth using a decorative outer corner. To ennoble the joints near the window or door, you need to purchase cashiers.

For fastening to the frame of a wide block, clamps and self-tapping screws are used: holes are carefully drilled in the panels, which are then masked with the help of selected putty or closed with special plugs.

The finishing stage is the application of varnish or paint to the block house. Renewal of the coating must be done every 5-7 years.

Interior block house decoration is increasingly common in the arrangement of the premises. This finishing option will set you apart from many.
But before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with this material closer, and understand how it suits you. After that, you need to choose the right type of wood and only after that make a purchase.
This article will tell you which block house for interior decoration to choose and how to properly carry out the work. Before buying, you should see how the interior decoration is done with a block house video and decide on a design solution.

The interior decoration of a block house has a number of advantages, but there are also disadvantages that you should also familiarize yourself with before making a final decision on finishing.
So:

• Interior block house decoration is completely safe for human health, the material is made entirely from a natural product that will not harm your health;
• During installation, you will also make high-quality heat and sound insulation. And this is important. Moreover, the materials for this will only complement the design;
• Not such a complicated installation, which you can do with your own hands. To do this, you will not need a special tool, but only a set that is available in almost any household;
• Not a large amount of debris during the work, it is much less than with other types of cladding;
• Finishing the internal block house is done quite quickly and does not take much time;
• This finishing option contributes to the creation of a microclimate in the room. There is ventilation under the panels, which ensures this process as correctly as possible;
• The price of the material is not so high, almost anyone can afford it;
• Facing can be done on any surface, and you will not be particularly interested in the curvature of the walls and the previous coating.

This material has its drawbacks, which you should know before buying:

• You will have to constantly monitor the finishing of the house, and this takes time;
• There are gaps between the panels that will contribute to the accumulation of dust;
• Perhaps the most significant drawback is the usable area, which is decreasing. And this cannot be avoided.

Attention: When buying a material, you should also consider the method of using the room.
Coniferous wood species can also be used for living quarters. But just do not use them to finish the sauna.

Paneling

After viewing photos on this topic and choosing a type of wood, you can make a purchase and start doing work that is done according to certain rules and requires compliance with the technology. The appearance and durability of the structure will depend on this.

Surface preparation

For proper fastening, we need to properly prepare the surface:

• First you need to remove everything from the walls. After that, we take a brush for metal and remove all the previous coating;
• Now we look at what has exfoliated from the previous plaster.
  If there are deep cracks, they should also be gouged to a width of one cm. For this, we use a chisel and a hammer;
• Now we need to treat the surface with antiseptics, which are commercially available. Give preference to a deep penetrating liquid. To do this, use a brush or spray gun;

Attention: Be sure to apply an antiseptic. Even if there is no fungus on the walls, this must be done.
If it appears after installation, problems may arise. Access to the surface will be limited.
Therefore, do it even for the sake of prevention.

• After processing, it is necessary to apply a layer of primer to the plane, which will strengthen the surface. To do this, use a brush or spray gun.

Lathing installation

This is quite a responsible stage of work. The whole structure is attached to the frame and the slightest deviation will immediately be reflected on the surface.
The geometric shape may also be broken. So take this job seriously.

Attention: For installation, two materials for the frame are used. This is a tree and a metal corner.
If you choose the first option, then you should treat the timber with antiseptics that are commercially available. This will significantly extend the life of the entire structure.

So:

• First you need to properly markup. After all, if the fastening is not performed qualitatively, then the correctness of the geometric shape of the structure will be violated.
  First you need to make a strapping around the perimeter of the plane and correctly outline the installation. To do this, it is best to use a hydraulic level.
  We put a mark for the beginning of fastening the panels and after that transfer the size to another part of the wall with a hydraulic level;
• After that, we connect the marks with a nylon thread. We just beat off the installation line;

Attention: When choosing the height of the fastening of the strips, one should also take into account the height of the insulation, which should not be deformed by the cladding.
Otherwise, it loses its properties. So provide a gap of n a couple of cm. And that will be enough.

• Now we cut the slats to the desired size. For this we use a saw.
  Just remember that the mount can not be done tightly to the wall. It is necessary to provide a gap of one cm.
  This will help to avoid trouble during the expansion of the material;
• We cut the beam and fasten it. For a wooden surface, it is enough to use self-tapping screws. For a wall made of concrete or brick, you must first make a hole with a puncher and make the connection on the dowel;

Attention: Do not use dowels from kits. We need a strong and reliable connection, which they will not provide.
Purchase separately plastic and self-tapping screws, which take a couple of mm more from the cross section of the dummy hole. This will ensure the required quality of fasteners.

• Similarly, we do the strapping of the entire plane along the perimeter of the room;
• Now we need to fix the transverse profile or timber. To do this, apply the step from the calculation of the panels, but not less than 50 cm.
  It should also be noted that the connection of panels cannot be done on weight. It should be performed on the frame.
  Using this, we determine the mounting distance and draw the installation lines for the rails;
• During work, it is worth using a plumb line. With its help, the work can be done qualitatively and correctly determine the perpendicular in relation to the floor. We draw lines;
• For correct installation in height, you should use a fishing line that is stretched along the diagonals of the plane. We do height adjustment with the help of spacers made of wood;
• We make the mount as described above;
• After installing the crate, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. For this, various films are used.
  They can be fixed before applying the crate, but this is suitable for a wooden plane.
  With a concrete surface, after attaching the frame, cut the film to size so that there is an overlap on the rails and then fix the material with a construction stapler;
• After installing the frame, you can make installation and insulation. Sheets should be laid tightly, but not deformed.

Wiring installation

Finishing inside the block house is carried out after installing the wiring for sockets and fixtures:

• First, find the connection point. Here you will need to fix the junction box.
  It must be freely accessible. This will be required during the repair work;
• We fix the box and after that we mark the installation of sockets. We make a cable supply there;

Caution: Use only terminal blocks to make wiring connections. They will provide a reliable and high-quality connection.
Do not use twists. This is not only not high quality, but also not safe.

• We fasten the wire to the place where the socket is installed and cut it off. At the same time, do not forget to release the cable so that it is enough for a free connection;
• During fastening, proceed as follows. First, we apply the panel and then mark the installation location of the outlet.
  Remove the panel and lay it on a flat surface. After that, we make a hole with a drill and a crown.
  Just do not forget to pick up the crown but the diameter of the socket attachment.

Installation of block house panels

The material should be brought to the installation site in a couple of days, it should get used to the room temperature and gain the desired humidity.
So:

• We begin the wood trim with the installation of the first panel, which is attached only with the spike up. You can start fastening from the top or bottom.
  It depends on your desire, only you need to leave gaps of five mm from the top and bottom, this will ensure sufficient ventilation.

For fastening, several options are used:

• Nails, this is the most economical, but also the most non-durable fastener. Over time, it just loosens up;
• The most common option is galvanized self-tapping screws;
• There is also a special mount for block houses, which is made in the form of brackets;
• Cleimers are also used.

Caution: When fastening with nails and self-tapping screws, never drive or screw them into the surface. First, make a hole with a drill, only the diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the fastener.
After that, make a depression in the surface. This will be required to hide the hat. And only after that it is worth making a connection.

• Also, do not make a very tight connection between the panels themselves. Leave a couple of mm. This is also due to the expansion of the material with a temperature difference;

You will have to do the joining of the corners.
This work is done in two ways:

• In the first option, it should be washed down at an angle of 45 * and then docking can be done without additional materials. Only over properly withstand the angle;
• In the second option, you simply fasten the corners into a joint and, after the panels are fully installed, put a facing corner and hide this joint;
• After the panels are fully installed, the corners are clad. For this, a decorative corner is used, which will hide the joint and possible fastening flaws.

This is how the block house is installed. You can see the photo and get to work.
There is an instruction, now it only remains to make a final decision.