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Do-it-yourself country shower. How to make a summer shower in the country: step by step instructions, photos, videos, recommendations! At the cottage, a summer shower with a loach

The construction of a summer shower for a summer residence is not complete without questions related to the choice of material and the determination of the size of the structure. In addition, I want the building to be heated. This will make it possible to swim on cold days when the water in the tank does not have time to warm up from the sun. An important issue is the organization of drainage and discharge of dirty water. Today we will look at how to build a summer shower with our own hands, and we will try to address all the questions of interest.

A country shower is so simple that it does not require a detailed diagram. Usually withstand the standard dimensions of the booth 1000x1000x2200 mm. It is impossible to build a booth below, since part of the height will be taken by a wooden pallet, plus a watering can above your head. But the width and depth of the structure, it is desirable to individually select the physique of the owners. For example, an obese person in a small booth will be cramped, so the dimensions will have to be increased.

Drawing of a simple summer shower for a summer residence

If you decide to cultivate the building, build a dressing room with a dressing room, install benches and a table in it, drawings will already be needed here. Draw what you want to build, specify all dimensions. When drawing up a detailed diagram, consider the following points:

Wooden shower cubicle

Building a cabin out of wood is the most common option due to its ease of construction. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, easy to process. Its only drawback is susceptibility to moisture and bugs, so it requires additional processing. To build a wooden shower for a summer residence, you will need boards and timber, preferably from coniferous trees. You can, of course, use oak or larch. The material made from these types of wood is more durable, but it is more difficult to process. Having decided on the material, get to work:

1. Since we are building a wooden shower, we will make the frame from wood. The main load on the racks will create a tank of water. If its volume is about 200 liters, then the main racks must be installed from a bar with a section of 100x100 mm. To fix the door, install additional racks made of timber with a section of 50x50 mm. The distance between them is equal to the width of the doors themselves with the door frame.
2. Under all vertical racks, dig holes 80 mm deep. Fill the bottom of the pits with a 100 mm layer of crushed stone and sand.
3. To make the tree rot less in the ground, grease the edges of the timber with bitumen or machine oil. Top wrap with two layers of roofing material. Insert the posts into the pits, level them with a plumb line and concrete.
   
4. Another method to extend the life of the posts is to cast metal bushings. They can be made from pieces of a metal pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. When the concrete hardens, chop off the edges of the square beam with an ax to the size of the inner diameter of the pipes and install them in the concrete bushings. Under the door pillars, similarly concrete bushings from a pipe of a smaller diameter.
5. When installing vertical racks, make the front ones from the side of the doors 100 mm higher than the rear ones. The difference in height will help build a pitched roof.
6. Connect the exposed racks around the perimeter from below and from above with horizontal jumpers, securing them with bolts. If you plan to make the floor in the form of a wooden lattice, reinforce the lower lintels with metal mounting corners. The jumpers will be supports for the logs and must support the weight of a person.
7. Now you need to make a frame for the tank from wooden jumpers fixed on top of the frame. A tank filled with water made of any material has an impressive weight, so the frame under it must be made strong.

   

   Flat water tank for water installed on the roof of the shower

8. Sheathe the sides of the cabin frame with a sanded board. Make a door from a board 20-25 mm thick. Cut it to the required length, lay it in a row and sew it with cross bars. Knock down the door frame from a board 40-50 mm thick and fix the door to it with hinges. Now the whole structure can be bolted to the door pillars.
9. Treat the finished booth with an antiseptic and cover with drying oil or varnish. Cover the door from the inside with a film so that water does not get on it.

Variants of wooden cabins for a summer shower

Polycarbonate cabin

It is easier to build a polycarbonate booth than a wooden one, but you will need welding experience. The fact is that for polycarbonate it is necessary to weld a frame from a metal profile. For racks, a profile with a section of 40x60 mm will go, and a smaller section can be used for strapping. The use of a wooden frame for polycarbonate is not desirable, since both materials tend to "play" from changes in weather conditions. From this, polycarbonate sheets can be deformed.

The manufacturing process of a metal frame for polycarbonate is similar to a wooden structure. Concrete the main racks, and then weld the upper and lower jumpers. Three jumpers must be made in the middle of the frame so that the polycarbonate sheets do not sag. The fourth is not needed. She will interfere with the doors. From above, weld the frame under the tank. Make a frame for the door from a profile with a section of 20x20 mm and fix it with hinges to the rack. Paint the entire structure with waterproof paint.

For sheathing, use opaque polycarbonate honeycomb sheets, 6-10 mm thick. Cut a large sheet into fragments according to the size of the booth with a circular saw. Fix the resulting polycarbonate plates to the frame with self-tapping screws with a thermal washer. The door is also sheathed with a sheet of polycarbonate. Bolt the handle and latch to the frame.

Polycarbonate shower option with dressing room

Shower tank

Cabin made of corrugated board

A good option for giving would be to build a cabin from corrugated board. Lightweight, strong and durable material will last for years. For a metal profile, both a metal and a wooden frame are suitable, but always with additional transverse bars. Sheets of corrugated board are soft, and additional emphasis will not interfere with them. We build any of the frames for the metal profile in the same way as the above options. In any case, weld the door frame from a metal profile.

Fastening the corrugated board is done with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sealing washer through one wave. First fix the sheets of corrugated board on the side walls, then sheathe the door. If you need to cut the material, use scissors or a special disc with teeth on the grinder so as not to burn the polymer coating of the corrugated board when cutting.

Cabin made of bricks

The construction of a brick cabin in the country requires the construction of a foundation. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 200 mm wide and 400 mm deep along the perimeter of the future structure. Fill the trench with a brick battle and fill it with liquid concrete so that it seeps between it. A week after the concrete has set, start laying bricks on the cement mortar. Don't forget to install a box for the door. The door itself can be made of wood or a frame can be welded from a profile and sewn up with a sheet of corrugated board. On the last masonry, wall in wooden blocks across the building, preferably the thickness of the brick. They will lay the roof and fix the tank.

Installing the roof and tank

The material for the roof will need to be hard. Slate or corrugated board is well suited. After fixing the roofing material, drill a hole in the center of the roof. Place the tank on top so that the water supply tube passes through the hole. Screw the tap and watering can onto the tube.

The optimal tank capacity for a country shower is 200 liters. In the store you can buy a plastic or galvanized tank or make it yourself by welding from stainless steel. Any container with a neck for pouring water will serve as a tank. To make a shower for a cottage with heated water, mount a heating element with a power of 2 kW in a metal tank. Paint the top with black paint. The dark color attracts the sun's rays, and the water will heat up faster.

Scheme of the device of the tank for a summer shower with heating

If you install wood-burning titanium in a cabin in the country house, then in addition to hot water, you will get a heated room. Then you will need to install a second tank with cold water next to it.

Arrangement of the floor and drainage

The floor and drainage of the shower for giving can be done in two ways:

Summer shower in a country house

If there is free space, a country shower can be built in the house. To do this, it is better to purchase a shower stall in the store. Make a recess in the concrete floor and install the acrylic tray according to the product instructions. Connect the siphon on the pallet with a corrugated hose to the sewer. Seal the joints of the pallet to the floor with sealant. Further, according to the instructions, assemble the frame from the profile, install the doors, supply cold and hot water from the boiler.

As you can see, you can build a summer shower with your own hands in the country from almost any material. The main thing is to prepare drawings, material, tools and show aspiration.

In contact with

With my own hands. Consider the simplest and most affordable ways to build such a necessary building.

We often spend our summers at the dacha in order to be closer to nature for some time, away from noisy freeways and the speed of the metropolis. But the rest will not be entirely pleasant if we do not have the opportunity to take an invigorating shower that allows us to wash off dirt and dust, and also makes us fresh and clean on a hot summer day.

Building a summer shower yourself is not so difficult, despite the fact that there are a lot of options for its implementation, some of which are quite simple and do not require serious investments, both time and money. So let's get started.

Finished building for a summer residence

If you are a too busy person, or too lazy to build a soul and you have money, then you can simply buy a finished product. Or order a frame from a craftsman, and install the tank yourself. And that's it, you can use this wonderful device!

If warm water is enough for you, you can not use electric heaters for this. In hot weather, it is enough to install a container of the required volume from the available material above the booth, paint it with black paint so that there is better heating by the sun's rays.

The tank will heat up more quickly if placed in a transparent glass or plastic box. Such a structure will allow you to provide yourself with warm water even in cool weather, the main thing is that the sun is not hidden behind clouds.

This option will be the most simple and convenient for lazy people and money comrades.

open design

An outdoor summer shower built with your own hands is suitable for quickly washing off the collected dirt. This design is very simple and easy to mount from improvised materials.

This open device will help to harden the body and increase immunity.

It is best to make such a summer shower with your own hands near some wall by installing a supply pipe with a tap on it and. To protect from prying eyes, you can attach a curtain. To do this, you need a pipe bent by an arc with loops for the curtain.

This is possible if your summer cottage has running water. If there is no water supply, you can attach a suitable container to the wall and you can take water procedures.

It is also necessary to protect the wall of the building and the floor covering from the destructive process of water. You can make wall cladding, water-repellent, and put artificial stone or other material on the floor. Only the material should not be slippery, otherwise there is a risk of injury.

If the built outdoor shower is located next to the developed site, then fixtures are not needed - the water used will evaporate and soak into the ground.

How to build a shower in the country with your own hands?

To get started, select a suitable and empty place in the country to install a new building. If you rarely use the shower, then the wastewater can be drained directly into the ground.

But in the case of frequent washing, you need to think about draining a large amount of water to a certain place. If there is a septic tank, then wastewater can be sent there, of course, if the volume of the tank allows.

After excavation, you can make the frame of a summer shower with your own hands, which must be solid (strong), because it needs to withstand the weight of the tank. The frame can be made from:

• boards (bars), reinforced with metal corners;
• steel corners or pipes.

A metal frame will last longer, but will require annual painting to eliminate the possibility of corrosion, while a wooden frame is much easier to complete.

Do-it-yourself summer shower - drawings for construction:

Any handy means can serve as material for the walls:

• wooden lining;
• plastic panels;
• flat slate and much more.

See a photo of a summer shower with your own hands:

Inside, the booth will become more beautiful and stronger if it is sheathed with a plastic clapboard, the floor of the boards is made in the form of a lattice, having treated the wooden material from splinters.

Think about soil erosion under the shower over time. You can install a plastic or iron drip tray for the floor.

Or the easiest option is to pour a layer of rubble under the floor.

Watch an interesting video on how to make a budget summer shower in the country:

P.S. As you can see, it is possible to build a shower for a summer house on your own and you do not need to buy expensive materials, you can use what is available.

It is unlikely that anyone will agree to deny themselves the pleasure of taking an outdoor shower, which allows them to refresh themselves at the end of a hard day's work. In this article, we will tell you how to make a summer shower with your own hands from various materials (polycarbonate, metal profiles, bricks, wood), show the exact dimensions, and also provide photo and video instructions.

Such an approach to the manufacture of a shower structure will allow you to save on expensive materials, and, no less important, to make a structure that best suits your individual preferences.

Site selection and options

A place for a shower is chosen, as a rule, in an open area, located at some elevation above the general level of a suburban area. Since solar energy is used to heat water in structures of this type, the place under them should not be located in the shade of trees and other high-rise objects.

It is known that summer shower cabins of various architectures are traditionally built in our summer cottages (including quite original designs). In this case, all of them can be reduced to the following versions:

• buildings of a light type without strong side walls;
• lightweight structures equipped with improvised side walls;
• capital shower houses with walls made of polycarbonate or similar material.

Let's consider each of the above embodiments in more detail.

Shower cubicle dimensions

Inside the shower cabin, it should be comfortable enough to easily bend over, turn around and stand freely. Therefore, you can build on these sizes:

• Height 2–3 m.
• Length 1.9 m.
• Width 1.4 m.

These sizes are quite comfortable. Considering the thickness of the walls, the room will decrease slightly. At the same time, the shower cubicle itself will have an average size of 1 × 1, as well as a dressing room of 0.6 × 0.4 m.

From improvised materials

The simplest design of a shower made from improvised materials includes a tank with a tap built into it, a standard shower head and a regular watering hose. Such a simple structure is installed near the house, and the tank is mounted on the wall or roof of the building at a height slightly higher than human height.

The location of the tank should be chosen in such a way that the sun's rays linger on it for as long as possible during the day.

After fixing the collection tank, a valve cock is built into it, on which a hose of suitable length is put on with a shower head installed at its end.

The convenience of this option for a summer shower is that in this case you can do without arranging a separate shower stall. The main thing to pay attention to is to protect the wall and roof of the house well from the damaging effects of moisture that accumulates near the tank. To this end, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building in the area where the latter is located should be isolated with special water-repellent impregnations or simply covered with several layers of ordinary oilcloth.

Note that this embodiment has natural disadvantages, which are as follows:

• the place of taking a shower in this case is completely unprotected from the wind;
• a significant part of the daytime it will be in the shade of the house;
• there is a threat of gradual destruction of the walls of the house from moisture accumulating in this place.

Given all these shortcomings, the use of such structures is, as a rule, limited.

The process of building a wooden summer shower consists of several successive steps. First of all, you need to prepare a place. It must be well ventilated, as under the influence of constant exposure to moisture, the structure can quickly become unusable. Next, you need to dig a hole 1 × 1 m and a depth of 0.4 m. You fill it with rubble. This must be done so that the soapy water does not spread over the summer cottage, but has time to soak into the soil.

If you have organized a drain of sewage waste into a drain pit, then you skip this stage of preparation.

1. Sheathing frame clapboard.
2. Painting.
3. Tank installation.

Frame construction

Take boards with a section of 30 mm × 15 cm and make a 1 × 1 base. Attach 4 side beams to it, the section of which is 100 × 70 mm. They will serve as the basis for installing the tank. They must be installed in the grooves.

Frame sheathing

For sheathing the frame, you can use a false beam, blockhouse or lining. When mounting them, leave a gap of up to 3 mm between each bar. This also applies to the first at the base. In this case, under the influence of moisture, the product will be able to expand freely. If this is not taken into account, then the summer shower will turn into an "accordion".

Painting

When the plating is completed, you can start painting. To do this, the entire surface should be covered with antifungal impregnation. The next layer will be facade acrylic water-borne varnish. It is applied in 3 layers.

You should not save on varnish, so it is better to apply it in sufficient quantity. It is important to ensure that water slides easily over the surface of the walls and does not linger in the shower. Such painting is carried out both outside and inside.

Tank installation

To store water, you can install a tank of 100 liters. The tank can be made of different materials, stainless steel, plastic, etc. You can buy a ready-made tank just for this purpose. Some homeowners often find one or another container to install on an outdoor shower.

In conclusion, it remains to hang the curtain on the hooks. On average, such a shower can be built in 1-2 days.

Photo instructions for making a summer shower from wood

Another option for building a shower is to use polycarbonate. To build it, you will need to purchase the following building material:

• Polycarbonate. The sheet size is 2.1 × 1.2 m. For arranging a shower, a thickness of 8–15 mm will be enough. As for the choice of color, then choose one that is less transparent milky or bronze.
• For fastening, special hardware, tapes and corners will be required.
• Frame material such as wood, metal angle or pipe, brick, aluminum profile, etc.
• Shower tank.
• Shower diffuser.
• If necessary, a plastic pipe for the drain.

We have already discussed the general principle of constructing a frame for a summer shower made of wood above. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to some specific features in working with polycarbonate.

Any material, be it stone, wood or metal, can support the weight of polycarbonate. But there is one caveat. This material is distinguished by its windage, so the frame should be equipped with a sufficient number of cross-shaped, vertical and horizontal jumpers.

The thickness of the frame material for polycarbonate may be less than for wood.

Tank installation

The tank is mounted on an installed frame. Due to this, the water is heated in it by the sun's rays. Usually a flat tank is installed, but there are no strict rules here.

It is better to install a tank in a polycarbonate shower under the roof. Thus, there will be a greenhouse effect and the water will heat up much faster and cool down accordingly.

Installation of polycarbonate

If you want to make a locker room, you will need two sheets of polycarbonate. For walls, use opaque, and for the roof, use transparent, so the water will heat up faster. First of all, make blanks by cutting the sheets to the desired dimensions.

A polycarbonate sheet can be cut with an ordinary knife both along the voids and across.

Be sure to process the cut with sandpaper. Check for sawdust getting inside the comb. If yes, then they can be removed with a vacuum cleaner. To prevent chipping when drilling holes, step back from the edge of 3-4 cm. Drilling should be between the stiffeners. Be sure to cover the edges of the sheet with perforated tape. This is done so that debris, dust, water, etc. do not get inside the cells. As for the end part, use the end profile, H-shaped or angular.

To prevent condensation inside the honeycombs, drill thin holes in several places. Enough 3 holes per 1 m profile.

Photo

Video

In this video you will see how to make a wooden shower:

This video will talk about the possibility of a quick shower construction:

Scheme

Photo instruction of a summer shower on a plank base

A summer resident who wants to preserve his health and good mood, after field work, should wash off the dust and put on clean clothes. And for this, a shower cabin is needed on the site. You can make such a structure with your own hands, observing all the subtleties of construction.

Types of country shower

The problem of adopting hygiene procedures at their summer cottage can be solved in several ways. Consider them, moving from simple to complex.

Portable

The portable device is sold as a set in a suitcase container. There are two varieties:

• with a soft polymer hanging bag with a volume of 16-20 l, equipped with a sprayer;
• with a pump - suction depth up to 1.5 m - to which a shower head is connected with a hose.

A bag or a watering can can be hung just on a tree, but then you will have to wash in a bathing suit or swimming trunks. To bathe completely, you will need to build a kind of shower cabin from an opaque roll material, such as polyethylene film or polypropylene (PP) tarpaulin, which is more preferable because it does not stick to the body.

Lightweight shower design can be installed anywhere - no foundation required

Such a fence is easiest to place near the wall of the house. Firstly, it is convenient to attach a cornice to the wall for hanging curtains, therefore, racks are not needed; secondly, in this case, the fence is required only on three sides. Thus, the cornice can be made semicircular by bending the heated PP pipe.

Pins or pipe sections are embedded in the wall, on which the cornice will be mounted. You will also need to attach a holder for hanging a bag or shower head with dowels.

The location of the shower near the wall of the house helps to save materials

The advantages of a portable shower are as follows:

• low cost;
• mobility;
• no need not only for any construction, but even for the organization of a cesspool: water can drain directly into a flower bed.

It is clear that one should not expect anything special from this purely hiking option. The disadvantages will be:

• the possibility of operation only in hot weather;
• lack of water heating;
• the impossibility of frequent and long-term use, since the soil at the place where water drains can quickly turn sour.

Modular

A modular shower is a completely finished cabin, often equipped with adjustable legs. The owner of such a shower will also not have to deal with drainage issues, since there is a built-in septic tank inside, the filler of which will need to be changed periodically.

The module is fully equipped and ready for operation.

The only drawback is the significant cost, which not every summer resident is ready to put up with.

Light summer shower

For a summer shower, a frame is made of polypropylene pipes, sheathed with rolled or rigid sheet material. Walls can also be formed from improvised materials, for example, from a willow vine like a wattle fence.

A garden shower with a wicker cabin looks attractive in a summer cottage

But it is best to use matte (non-visible) sheet polycarbonate - it partially transmits solar heat. An attractive feature of this material is that it can be bent to form a rigid, self-supporting wall (prestressed structure). Thus, columns for a round shower enclosure made of polycarbonate will not be needed - the frame will consist of only two rings of PP pipe (they are also prestressed) located at the top and bottom.

Polycarbonate is not visible, but it transmits sunlight well

Requirements for polycarbonate are minimal: the cheapest 4 mm sheet with a 2R structure from any manufacturer will do.

A small water tank is installed on top of the cab, which may have an electric heater (today such tanks are commercially available).

Water tank can be heated

Being designed for full-scale use, such a shower needs a cesspool, and therefore you cannot attach it to the wall of the house. The cesspool, in order to avoid washing away the foundation with infiltrate, should be at least 15 m away from the house. But construction still cannot be considered difficult, since a foundation is not required for a light and plastic building even with high heaving of the soil.

All that needs to be done is to remove the fertile layer of soil and fill it with sand and gravel in layers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm each), then drive reinforcing bars into the ground, on which the frame will be put on.

In case of skew due to ground movements, the frame is made collapsible, connecting the PP pipes and corners not by welding, but by self-tapping screws (for this, the corners need to be taken a size larger). The shower will be easy to repair by replacing damaged parts. Self-tapping screws must be used phosphated - they can be recognized by their black color. Diameter - 4.2 mm.

As a soft lining, it is best to use PP tarpaulin. In cool weather, in a cabin made of such material it will be warmer than in polyethylene, and in hot weather it will not be so stuffy.

A significant disadvantage of a light shower is suitability for use only in warm weather.

All weather

"All-weather" implies the possibility of use throughout the summer season, including early spring and late autumn, when it is relatively cold outside. The building is also a frame, but in comparison with the previous version, it has a number of improvements:

• in addition to the washing department, there is a dressing room;
• the walls are equipped with insulation;
• there is heating.

The frame must be built from wood or rolled metal - PP pipes have too low strength. Due to the weak resistance of these materials to the effects of dampness, it has to be raised above the ground, which requires a pile or column foundation. Sturdy frame allows you to install a more capacious water tank.

All-weather shower has two compartments

Capital

A building built of brick or foam blocks. Construction is time-consuming and expensive, but in terms of durability, such a shower far exceeds all others.

The foundation can be made in the form of a solid monolithic slab - due to the small size of the structure, it will not require large expenses.

Foundation shower required

Choice of frame material

Before starting construction, you need to choose the frame material. As it was said, plastic pipes disappear due to insufficient strength, so there are two options to choose from: wood or rolled metal.

Wood

Positive sides:

• low cost;
• ease of processing.

The disadvantage is a short service life, explained by susceptibility to decay and drying out.

Bars of a certain section are suitable for the frame

Specifically, you will need the following lumber:

• for the lower harness: insulated shower - timber with a section of 150x150 mm, light - from 60x60 mm (optimal - 100x100 mm);
• for racks, oblique connections and top trim: board with a section of 100x40 mm.

Rolled metal

It is important to understand that in this case we are not talking about galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 1.5–2.5 mm - this material is not suitable for such tasks. A channel with a height of 50–80 mm is used as a lower trim, racks and other frame elements are made of a square pipe from 25x25 mm with a wall of 1.5 mm to 40x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm.

A shower room with such a frame will cost much more than a wooden one, and it’s more difficult to build it - steel is more difficult to process, and electric welding will be needed to connect the parts. But on the other hand, the gain will be significant: the frame will be stronger and more durable.

Metal construction is more durable

Calculation of the dimensions of the shower

The drawing shows the dimensions of the shower

Choosing a waste disposal method

Even if a cesspool or a septic tank for a toilet has already been built on the site, the shower room must be equipped with a separate structure. This is due to the presence of a large amount of alkali and surfactants in the shower drains, which can destroy the beneficial microflora in the septic tank.

Sanitary standards prescribe to make cesspools with a volume of 2 m 3 or more. But such a requirement is relevant for standard drains. In the case of a shower, their size will be much smaller, so the volume of the pit can be reduced. Since, due to the need to heat water, the shower somehow has to be taken with long pauses, its size can be taken equal to the volume of the shower tank for water.

Another important question is to what depth sewage can be dumped into the ground so that the chemistry contained in them does not poison the fertile layer. With a volley discharge of up to 50 l or a gradual discharge of up to 100 l / h, the safe depth is two thicknesses of the fertile layer. The country shower in these figures quite keeps within.

Therefore, instead of a full-fledged cesspool, a drainage well can be made from a metal barrel 0.85 mm high and with a volume of 200 liters. It can be guaranteed that such a height will be enough for sure, since a fertile layer over 40 cm thick is quite rare in summer cottages.

With a small thickness of humus, a smaller plastic barrel can also be used, the main thing is that it should not be smaller in volume than a shower tank for water.

You can build such a well right under the shower.

The wastewater receiver must be at least as large as the storage tank

If you decide, as is often advised, to make a drainage well from old tires, then do not forget to periodically disinfect it with bleach: water will stagnate in the interior of the tires.

Instrument preparation

The builder must have the following:

• pegs and a skein of twine - for marking the territory;
• garden drill;
• shovel and bayonet shovels;
• bubble and water (hose) levels;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• wood saw;
• grinder with a cutting disc for metal;
• drill;
• hammer, screwdriver (or screwdriver);
• marker, chalk or pencil for marking materials.

At the installation site of the shower, the upper fertile soil layer is completely cut off to the underlying one.

Pile foundation construction

Piles must be installed at the corners of the building and, if necessary, along the perimeter so that the distance between adjacent supports does not exceed 1.5 m. -45 cm above the ground. This height is determined by the sum of the heights of the low tray (see below), the siphon attached to it and the ventilation gap, which should be 20–25 cm.

The height of the pile above the ground should be approximately 30-45 cm

Piles should be used bored. They are created in the following way:

If the ground is weak and you need to increase the bearing area, get a camouflage nozzle for the drill. It allows you to make a broadening at the base of the well, in which, after pouring concrete, a so-called camouflage heel is formed.

Another option: you can use as piles pieces of steel pipe with a diameter of 60 to 150 mm, the ends of which are flattened by sledgehammer blows. For driving, the same sledgehammer or headstock is used, made from a suitable piece of cast iron. The disadvantage of such piles is the high corrosion rate, which is due to the lack of waterproofing. In a bored pile, the concrete is protected from moisture by a pipe (asbestos must be coated with bituminous mastic).

Construction of a drainage well

The well is built in the following sequence:

1. A pit is dug with a depth equal to the height of the barrel.
2. A barrel with a cut off bottom is installed in a recess. If it does not have a cover, but only has a narrow neck, then an inspection hatch must be cut out in the upper plane. For him, you will need to pick up a tight-fitting lid.
3. Backfilling of the excavation is in progress.
4. Small crushed stone is poured inside the barrel with a layer of 15–20 cm thick.

   Crushed stone is a good filter

5. In a thin stream, a liquid clay solution is evenly poured onto the backfill, prepared at the rate of 1–1.5 kg of clay (any one will do) onto a bucket of water. The pouring of the solution is stopped only when it completely covers the rubble.
6. After the solution has dried (it will take 1-2 days), the filter should be well agitated by repeated piercing over the entire surface with a sharpened reinforcing rod. If there is a welding machine, then for the convenience of work, the upper part of the barrel can be cut off, and after laying the filter, it can be welded again.

   There is a filter inside the plastic container.

Frame construction

You can start building the frame of the soul.

Floor device

The floor in the shower room should be made of tongue and groove board, which is laid along the short side of the building. With a thickness of 40 mm, boards can have a span without supports of up to 1.5 m, therefore, logs are not needed.

The tongue and groove board is laid along the short side of the shower enclosure

To protect wood from moisture and decay, it is best to use the following method:

1. The boards are treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion with a time interval between treatments of about 1 hour.
2. Further, the wood dries during the day. This process can be accelerated by laying the material in the sun. Then, if the weather is warm (in the shade +22 ° C or more), it will be ready by the evening (when processing is done in the morning).
3. The next step is impregnation with an antiseptic. It is desirable that it be warm outside, and the boards warm up well in the sun before processing. Please note that some formulations are designed for pressure treatment - read the instructions carefully.
4. After 4 hours, acrylic varnish is applied in two layers. The second layer - after drying the first (usually dries during the day). When the second layer dries, you can start laying the boards.

In the same way, the frame and outer skin can be processed if they are wooden. Only instead of varnish, heated bituminous mastic should be applied in 2-3 layers.

Pallet installation

The drain can be arranged using a linear drain installed along the wall, but it would be more rational to install a shower tray in the washing compartment. Recommended Specs:

1. Type: choose a model that installs in a cutout in the floor, not on legs (low tray).
2. Size: the most popular - 100x100 cm.
3. Material: enameled steel (acrylic in the countryside wears out quickly due to the large amount of sand).

You can purchase a pallet with a side length equal to the width of the shower - then it can be supported directly on the bottom trim.

You can install a ready-made tray in the shower

Work order:

If you want to have a lattice without fail wooden, for example, from bars with a section of 30x30 mm, the wood should be processed in the same way as the floor boards. It is advisable, if the costs are not frightening, to use the same composition for repairing bathtubs instead of acrylic varnish - the coating will be more resistant to abrasion by the soles.

The grate is treated in the same way as the floor boards before use.

When entering a low pallet, unlike a high one, the user takes a normal step, as a result of which there is a high probability of slipping. Therefore, it is desirable to lay the same grate in the pallet.

Frame sheathing

Now you can sheathe the walls, install the roof and the door. The sheathing is made double: from the inside, for example, plastic panels are installed, then foam plastic is glued to them and the entire building is sheathed from the outside. The most attractive in the role of outer skin looks professional flooring. Vinyl siding or plastic lining will be more affordable.

An opening window must be provided in the upper part of one of the cabin walls.

An opening window should be provided in the upper part of the wall for ventilation and natural light.

The roof of the shower room is made single-pitched with a slight slope. You can use the same corrugated board, hemming it from below with foam and plastic panels.

You can separate the washing and changing rooms with a curtain. It is desirable that it be waterproof, otherwise, being indoors, the material will dry for a long time and will soon soak. For this reason, a tarp will not work - it is better to use ordinary polyethylene.

Tank installation

A country shower tank can be purchased at the store. In this case, it will only need to be installed on the roof and connected to electricity (if there is a heating element), water supply and a watering can. If you intend to make a tank yourself, consider the following requirements:

1. It is imperative to provide for the presence of sanitary drainage - a tube with a stopcock through which absolutely all the water can be drained (the source is located at the lowest point and flush with the bottom).
2. But the pipe for supplying water to the shower head cannot be placed at the very bottom, otherwise sediment will pour on the user's head.
3. If you plan to connect the tank to the water supply by installing a float valve, then you need to add an overflow with a flow area twice the size of the valve. The tank lid must be at a sufficient distance from the float so that it is guaranteed to be able to rise and completely shut off the tap.

The float must be able to completely shut off the tap

If the user assumes to pour water into the tank manually, the design will be somewhat different.

The manual filling tank differs in the height of the water inlet pipe

As you can see, the pipe for supplying water to the watering can is located at the bottom, since the water level is constantly decreasing during the adoption of the procedure.

Most often, a steel barrel laid horizontally serves as a blank for a homemade tank. Due to the cylindrical surface, the sediment is completely removed from it. At the top, you need to cut out a wide inspection hatch, which will make it possible not only to fill the tank and monitor its condition, but also cover it from the inside with an acrylic composition for repairing bathtubs or enamel for yachts.

You can also use a plastic barrel. Since it is impossible to weld the pipes to it, in this capacity, threaded fittings with a flange are installed on the gaskets, fixed from the outside with a nut and washer. Fortunately, the wide neck, which is equipped with plastic barrels, allows you to do this. It is important that the diameter of the washer and flange is at least 3 times the outer diameter of the fitting (usually products with M12 - M16 threads are used), but at the same time it is not less than 40 mm. Otherwise, the fitting may warp due to temperature deformations.

It is better to install the barrel horizontally

A watering can and water supply are connected (if provided). In this case, the connection can be made not with pipes, but with a reinforced garden hose on clamps - it will be easier and cheaper. A shower head should be chosen special - with a valve.

If a heating element is installed in the tank, heating the water is not a problem. In this case, you will also have to heat the shower inside before visiting with electricity, for example, with a fan heater. However, due to the high cost of electricity, this method of heating water does not suit everyone. In addition, it will not be possible to equip a home-made tank with a heating element in accordance with all the rules, since emergency automation is required (protection against overheating of the heating element with a large amount of sediment and boiling water).

As an alternative, the following solution can be proposed: the tank is connected using the supply and return pipelines to the hot water unit, through which the water will circulate, gradually heating up. Circulation will be provided by a circulation pump similar to those used in heating systems. With a large diameter of pipes in the mains and the heat exchanger, the installation of a pump is not necessary - the water will circulate due to convection. In this case, the heat exchanger must be positioned so that its “hot” side is higher than the “cold” side. In this case, the heated water should be able to immediately rush up.

The role of a water heating unit can be:

1. Solar collector. A simple option can be made independently by placing a battery of black-painted steel, copper or aluminum pipes in a glass-covered box. A factory-made collector will require purchase costs, but its efficiency due to the use of modern technologies is much higher: some modern models are capable of heating water up to +70 ° C in cloudy conditions and 20-degree frost.

   Solar collector - an economical and environmentally friendly way to heat water using natural energy

2. Solar oven. It is a system of reflectors that focus sunlight from a large area on the coil. Reflectors should be precisely foiled, since an ordinary mirror reflects well only the visible range, and absorbs IR rays.

   The solar oven can be made independently according to the pattern

3. Cooking oven. Quite often, such a structure is erected in country houses in order to cook food. It is possible to embed a hot water register connected to the tank in it.
4. Gas stove. If a stove connected to a gas cylinder is used instead of a stove, then a hot water circuit made of a copper tube with a diameter of 6–10 mm can be laid in the form of loops around the burners. Now the heat that previously simply escaped during cooking will be absorbed by the water in the shower tank.

If there is a water heating unit for heating the washing room, it is necessary to install any thin-walled heating radiator in it and draw a “return” through it.

On this, the process of building an all-weather shower can be considered completed.

Video: building a wooden shower in a summer cottage

Operation features

In rural areas, a wide variety of pathogenic microorganisms always enter the water tank. In order not to turn the shower into a breeding ground for infection, it is highly advisable to regularly empty the container through the sanitary drainage, draining all the accumulated sediment along with water. If, however, a break of a week or more is expected in the use of the shower, this procedure must be performed without fail.

A simple factory-made shower cabin costs about 10 thousand rubles. For the same money, or even less, you can build a warm and durable country shower with a dressing room. As you can see, the game is worth the candle, so you can, armed with our advice, get down to business.

Preparations for the summer season are already in full swing. Someone uses summer cottages for growing crops, someone prefers to sow them with lawn grass, plant ornamental plants and just spend time in nature. Be that as it may, on hot summer days to freshen up and take a cool shower everyone wants. It is not always possible to hire a construction team to build a shower on the site, and such costs will not always be justified. So that you can competently and easily cope with the construction process, in this article we will look at 8 tips for summer shower arrangement at the cottage with their own hands.

1. Where to start?

If you have been thinking about building a summer shower in your country house, then you already have an idea of ​​how it will look like and what you need to purchase. In addition to the design itself, important parameters are:

• Choice of location;
• Shower size;
• Water tank volume;
• The nature of the building - temporary or capital.

Many try to choose the most secluded corner behind the house or in the shade of trees in order to hide such an intimate structure from prying eyes. This is what is the main mistake! By building a shower among trees, you will be exposed to constant attacks of insects that love moisture and coolness so much, and deprive yourself of the opportunity to naturally heat the water in the tank. That's why place for the future building should be located in an open, well-lit area and in no case be in a pit or in a lowland. Even if you plan on using a heated tank, it's wiser to ditch it in order to save money on hot days. The building itself should not be located at a small distance from. Taking a shower late in the evening, you need to get home as soon as possible so as not to get sick.

Concerning size future the buildings and the volume of the water tank. The recommended height of future walls is 200-300 cm. It is necessary to build on the growth of the tallest family member, who should not rest his head on the shower head. Width And length shower space is calculated depending on whether the building will have a dry dressing room or be limited to only a wet area. The option with a locker room is, of course, more convenient, the clothes will be protected from getting wet, and you will have the opportunity to change clothes comfortably. Thus, your shower will consist of two sections, separated by a partition. An area of ​​​​220 × 120 cm is quite enough for these two zones, even taking into account the skin.

Choosing a tank for water, it is necessary to take into account the number of people who will use the shower, and the intensity of its use. If you come to the dacha only on weekends and use the shower after a hard day's work, then a container that will hold the amount of water at the rate of 40 liters per person is quite enough. This will allow each user to pour water continuously for about 10 minutes. If a much larger number of people take water procedures in a row, you should think about a larger tank. But keep in mind that temporary buildings will not withstand containers with a volume of more than 200 liters. As the tank itself, you can use iron or plastic barrels, or purchase ready-made country models with a built-in watering can. A little advice- if you paint the surface of the tank with black paint, the water in it will heat up much faster due to the ability of black to attract heat.

So let's select basic moments:

• Location - in an open, elevated, bright area, at a maximum distance of 2-4 meters from the main building;
• The size of the room - the height is selected taking into account the growth of the tallest family member, the minimum comfortable perimeter is 100 × 100 cm;
• The size of the water tank capacity is 40 liters per user, multiplied by the number of people who will receive water treatments in sequence.

Character future the buildings- temporary or capital, it is necessary to choose based on the following parameters:

2. We equip the foundation and ensure the outflow of water

The basis of any structure, of course, is reliable. In the case of a summer shower, the foundation must not only protect the structure from groundwater washout and subsequent subsidence, but also be able to quickly drain large quantities of used water. Building any foundation starts with markup. In the selected place, you need to draw a contour. For example, the size of the shower will be 120 × 120 cm - in such a space it will be comfortable for a person with any build. At the corners of the rectangle, you need to drive in pegs, pull the cord around the perimeter and check the dimensions with a tape measure.
Such markup is universal and is performed before the construction of any kind of shower. Now consider types of foundations for various buildings.

Foundation for a simple temporary shower

For the construction of a temporary nature, it is enough to remove the top layer of soil 15-20 cm deep within the outlined rectangle and level the area. Now you need to make a pillow that will help drain water. To do this, prepare a mixture of crushed stone and. You can simply fill the hole halfway with sand, and pour a layer of rubble on top. Small stones will contribute to the settling of soap deposits on their surface. Additional filtration sandy layer will avoid rapid mulching. Such a design can be placed near the garden without harm to plants. On top of such a base, they usually fit, which serve as the floor in the summer shower. To prevent the rapid decay of wooden materials that will often come into contact with water, it is recommended to place pallets or boards knocked together at a height of 15-20 cm above ground level. For formwork you can use old bricks or. They are laid out around the perimeter of the base, leveled and rammed with a mallet.
You can use wood for wall or floor decoration only after, which will make it moisture resistant. The most effective way is impregnation with hot oil and subsequent opening with drying oil or. The arrangement of such a foundation will allow you to use an outdoor shower for more than one season.

Foundation for capital construction

If the shower will be used frequently and not by one or two people, it is necessary to think about the construction of a capital building. The most expensive way will be a brick construction. But it is easiest to heat it in the cool season. To do this, it is enough to insulate the walls. The best option would be a frame building made of metal or wooden beams. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of a reliable foundation. In this case, it is necessary to fill foundation from concrete.

According to the markup, you need to dig a hole about 30-35 cm deep. Mortgages must be made along the perimeter of the rectangle. For these purposes, you can use old iron pipes. The larger their diameter, the stronger the structure will be. At the locations of the pipes, a hole up to 30 cm deep is made with a drill, into which pipes or wooden beams are hammered. If you use a tree, then you need to protect its surface by wrapping it with roofing material or treating it with hot bitumen. After that, a cement-sand mixture is poured. Wooden mortgages can be made not only in the corners, but also around the entire perimeter of the base. To do this, use a sufficient width of the logs, which can provide further installation of the floor. The base must be level. This will help prevent the accumulation of water in places with slopes. Filling is carried out according to the technology of arrangement. Use special building beacons and rule.
disadvantage the foundation, which is made by pouring, is that you can start arranging the internal space only after it has completely dried. For brick buildings, you can use a cast reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 170-300 mm as a base. This will significantly reduce construction time.

Arrangement of water drain

Any capital construction needs a high-quality outflow of water.

• Best for waste collection septic tank, which must be placed next to the shower, but in no case under it. If you decide to save space on your site and still place it under the shower, after a short period of time you will begin to feel a sharp, unpleasant smell inside the building. In addition, there is a risk of soil collapse around the septic tank and, as a result, the destruction of the foundation. The recommended distance from the shower cabin is 1-2 meters. A drain pipe is removed from the shower tray or a drain ditch is drawn into the septic tank, which must have a sump and a drainage tank. A pit is being dug for the receiving chamber. It must be airtight. It can be a tin barrel or. It is recommended to cover the container with a lid so that rain or groundwater does not fill it. Nearby is a leaky drainage tank. It should be installed on a pillow of sand and gravel. These two compartments are interconnected by pipes.
  
• Another option for collecting waste - cesspool. To equip it, you need to dig about 2m3 of earth. This is the optimal volume that will ensure long-term use. At the bottom of the pit, a drainage cushion is made of sand and gravel, and the walls must be strengthened and made waterproof. You can overlay them with bricks, use ready-made concrete rings, or you can strengthen the pit with old ones. Equipping the drain pit, do not forget that it needs to be pumped out. In this regard, it must be located in a place where unhindered access of special equipment will be provided. In addition, the pit should have a distance from the residential building of at least 3-4 meters, since the formation of characteristic odors is possible.
  
• For simpler types of shower that will not be used with great intensity, it is enough to equip drainage well. It will be located directly under the shower. A hole is dug, 2 meters deep, a layer of rubble is poured at the bottom, and then a perforated plastic pipe is inserted. Material is poured into such a well, which will act as a filter. It can be gravel, crushed stone, old broken bricks, slag. The well is filled to the very top, then covered with a layer and covered with soil. From above, a wooden pallet is already installed on the formwork, which has slots for water seepage. This is the most affordable, but no less effective way that will provide the necessary outflow of water.
  

The easiest way to provide water is to install a plastic tank or an old iron barrel on the roof of the shower, paint it black to increase the rate of heating of water by sunlight, and connect a hose to it, through which water will flow into the tank. The presence of a hose for water supply is mandatory, especially if the tank volume is 100 liters or more. disadvantage tanks with natural heating is that in the cool season their use is problematic. Therefore, many prefer tanks With heated. There are three types of such systems:

Installation selected tank can be done in two ways - placing the tank directly on the cabin roof or on a special frame. The second case is rational to use if the volume of the tank is impressive, and the building may not support its weight. It is enough to make a frame from old iron pipes over the shower roof or from wooden beams. This method of placement will help to avoid significant heat loss and speed up the heating time of the water.

4. The simplest ways to organize a summer shower

It happens that the summer cottage is visited very rarely, and then, not for work, but more for recreation. In this case, the shower can be the simplest designs that you can even bring with you.

• Portable shower. This design looks like a large heating pad and is made of the same material. After filling the container with water, it is twisted with a special nozzle, at the end of which there is. At the opposite end there is a loop for which it is convenient to hang the container on a tree or a hook. By placing the container in a well-lit place, the water will heat up very quickly. The volume of such a "shower" is 10-15 liters. This entails restrictions on the duration of the reception of water procedures and the number of people who can use it. But it is a very convenient and inexpensive option for one person.
  
• shower rack- is an iron pipe on legs, which is equipped with a shower head and a hole for connecting a hose. Such a rack is convenient in that it can be placed in any convenient place and, if necessary, brought into a utility room for storage. disadvantage its is the lack of a water tank. That is, if there is no warm water and normal pressure in the system on the site, then you will have to take a cold shower.
• Usage shower system. The shower rack is a metal bar to which the overhead shower and faucet are attached. In order not to bother with the arrangement of a special room for its placement, many attach the shower system directly to the wall of the house or outbuilding. For this, water is drawn out of the wall. The wall of the building is protected from moisture. You can veneer it, or with other materials that are available. For convenience, you can separate the space with a curtain, and place a wooden pallet or rubber mat on the floor.

Keep in mind that this is an option for rare use. At the time when you will not be in the country, the system can be removed, and the outlet closed with a special plug.

All of the above types of showers are good because they do not require the arrangement of a foundation and a drain. But also the disadvantage is obvious- the possibility of their use depends entirely on weather conditions.

5. Do-it-yourself summer shower made of wood

To build a wooden building you will need:

• Appropriate timber;
• fasteners;
• Rubber hose;
• Shower head or shower set;
• Rubble.

Construction begins with the arrangement of a pit for water drainage. It is necessary to remove the top layer of soil with a depth of 30-40 cm and fill in the crushed stone. Thus, the soil under the shower will quickly absorb water, and the soap residue will remain on the rubble. Now you need to do formwork, to protect the wood from decay. At the corners of the pit, bricks are laid into the level. The height of the formwork must be at least 15 cm.

Now let's move on to building frame. You should start from the base. It needs boards 15 cm wide and at least 3 cm thick. The size of the base must match the size of the pit. For fastening boards, it is better to use threaded connections. Over time, the joints will not weaken even under significant weight, unlike conventional ones, which can "slip" out of the mounting hole. 4 beams with a section of 7 × 10 cm are attached to the base.

Bandaging of the frame performed using side and two transverse jumpers, which are inserted into the grooves. The same jumpers will strengthen the frame from above, which will ensure stability after attaching a heavy water tank to the roof. At your discretion, you can add a few more jumpers if you think that the design is unreliable.
For wall cladding you can use thinner wooden planks, clapboard, false timber, blockhouse and other timber. The main thing is to leave small gaps between the parts, 3-4 mm thick. This is necessary so that the planks can expand freely when wet, without deforming each other, and also shrink freely after drying. Remember that all wooden parts that will be constantly exposed to water must be carefully primed and varnished. You can soak them with drying oil or hot oil. Especially important before painting. There is a special antifungal antiseptic impregnation. You can start painting after the primer has completely dried.

When the shower is completely ready, you can hang tank. You can simply put it on the cross beams and secure with straps. If the tank is homemade, do not forget to cut a hole in the bottom for a watering can and a hole for the hose in the top. For convenience, several shelves for shampoos, soaps, etc. can be provided inside the cabin. and a couple of hooks for towels and clothes. Such a shower can be built over the weekend, and if the necessary materials are already available on the site, then the costs will be minimal. Life time wooden shower completely depends on how well you processed the wood and protected it from moisture before construction. Therefore, this point deserves special attention.

6. Polycarbonate shower enclosure

Polycarbonate is usually used to create. Therefore, for many, this material is associated with the greenhouse effect, and, consequently, with inconvenience. This opinion is erroneous. To create showers, there is a special, opaque type of polycarbonate. The most durable will be the building, which is made of metal profiles. Working with them is no more difficult than with wooden beams. A profile pipe with a cross section of 40 × 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the construction of a frame. Also to you required steel corner 50 × 50 mm. The number of profiles is determined depending on the area of ​​the future shower. The only thing to consider when cutting is that the racks should be 10-15 cm larger than the estimated shower height. This is necessary so that you can concrete them and not lose in height. Work plan will look like this:

• The assembly of the frame must be carried out on a flat surface. Two side drains and two overlapping crossbeams are laid on the ground. their straightness is checked. By welding, the parts are connected to each other. The second wall is assembled in the same way.
• Finished structures after welding must be installed vertically at the required distance from each other and connected to each other by two transverse profiles. Keep a 90 degree angle between the walls. It is necessary to fasten the transverse strips only on one side, on the other hand the door will be welded.
• After the frame is assembled, a hole of the required size is dug. The top layer of soil with a depth of 10-15 cm is removed, the concrete screed is leveled and poured. Once the screed has been poured and leveled, it is necessary to install the assembled frame on top so that the racks, which were originally longer, sink into. The level checks the verticality of the installed structure and adjusts if necessary. If the length of the legs exceeded the height of the concrete screed, it is necessary to hammer them into the ground until they are completely immersed.
• To collect water, a special steel pallet can be installed or drain ditches can be provided during concreting.
• For this design, it is better to use flat-shaped plastic water tanks. They are easy to install and, moreover, they will eliminate the need for arranging the roof.
• Separately, you need to weld the door frame and weld the hinges to the frame. It is more convenient to immediately sheathe the door separately from the walls.
• Sheathing the walls, fasten the polycarbonate directly to the profiles using self-tapping screws.

The color range of polycarbonate, which is used for sheathing shower enclosures, is very diverse. Therefore, the design can turn out to be very attractive. The care of this material is very simple, and in the evening it will protect you from the cool wind.

7. Country shower from corrugated board

Another good material for covering a summer shower is corrugated board. This material is highly strength And durability combined with ease. It is windproof. And when its walls warm up during the day, it will be comfortable to take a shower in it. Both wooden beams and metal profiles can be used as a frame. Metal, of course, is more durable. Therefore, if you still need to purchase materials, give preference to it.

The manufacture of the frame is similar to the examples from points 5 and 6. The only difference- more cross bars need to be added. This is necessary to securely fix the sheets and give the structure rigidity, since the corrugated board itself is considered a soft material. Attach sheets with . Be sure to use spacers to avoid damaging the sheet. You can cut the corrugated board with scissors for metal or using a grinder and a disk with teeth. Other circles are not recommended. During cutting, the polymer coating can burn through, which protects the coating from corrosion. The roof is also covered with corrugated board, and the tank is located under it. The gap between the walls and the tank will provide natural ventilation in the cab and prevent the formation of unpleasant odors. An unheated tank can be placed on top of the frame. Then the need to build a roof is eliminated.

8. Brick shower

This is the most labor-intensive design that is found in summer cottages with year-round living. Benefits such a soul has a lot:

• With the proper approach to the construction process, such a shower will last for many years;
• If you use a heated tank, you can take water treatments at any time of the year. Windproof walls also contribute to this;
• It is very easy to insulate such a building by sheathing it with foam plastic on the outside;
• A brick shower can consist of two zones - wet and dry, where it is much more convenient to change clothes;
• A brick shower can be combined with a toilet and use one drain hole;
• Strong walls and a concrete foundation will allow the use of very large water tanks without the risk of structural failure.

The disadvantages include the high costs associated with the purchase of materials and the duration of the work.

It is necessary to start construction with the arrangement foundation. Marking is carried out on the selected site and a trench is dug along the perimeter with a depth of 20 cm and a width of 40 cm. Now it is necessary to fill the trench with crushed stone or broken bricks and pour concrete with a liquid mortar so that it seeps through the stones. After the mortar dries and sets, after about a week, you can start laying the first layer of bricks. When laying, be sure control verticality after each new row. Don't forget to leave room for the door. Laying the last layer of bricks, make mortgages from thick wooden beams. A tank will be attached to them, and a roof will be laid. It is also necessary to strengthen the doorway with a metal corner or the same bar. The roof is covered with corrugated board. It is also necessary to provide a small window that will provide lighting and ventilation.

Now we need to arrange drain. It is best to equip a drainage well under the shower and lay a drain pipe from it into the sewer pit. Then a large number of people can freely use such a shower. The drainage well is covered with earth and poured with concrete, the drain pipe is first brought out. To facilitate the drain, you can fill in a slight slope towards the middle. In this case, the upper edge of the pipe must be flush with the floor. A wooden pallet with holes is laid on the concrete floor.

Optimal tank size is at least 200 liters. When placing it on the roof, provide a hole for the inlet pipe, on which the shower head will be screwed. It can be both purchased and homemade. When using a heated tank, do not forget about the supply of electricity. If you are not strong in this matter, then for your own safety, seek advice or help from specialists. Door leaf can be made of wood or OSB or chipboard sheathed with galvanized sheet. Thus, you will provide yourself with comfortable conditions for taking water procedures at any time of the year.