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Board for a frame house. Board for a frame house

A board for a frame house is the basis, the skeleton, which creates the basis of a modern frame house. That is why a random choice of a board will have the most negative consequences for the exterior and interior decoration of a frame house.

So, where are boards used in the construction of a frame house:

Boards bottom trim

Which rests on a concrete foundation, usually a 38 x 150 mm (2"" x 6"") impregnated board with an antiseptic. Fits in 1 layer. It is the impregnated board that is used, and not painted or submerged in an antiseptic bath. It is very important that the lower strapping board has clear geometric dimensions on four sides, since any deviations in dimension will immediately affect the horizontalness of the floor platform and the external geometry of the frame house. It is allowed to use two binding boards if you need to level the horizontal level before installing the floor log. Alternatively, you can use a larch board instead of impregnated pine or spruce. Larch wood resists decay well and can be used as a bottom trim board;

Floor log boards

The boards are used both for the entire structure of the floor joist, and in combination with wooden I-beams, LVL-beams and floor trusses. For logs, boards with a section of 38 x 140-286 mm are usually used. The choice of section depends on the length of the overlapped span. The step and section of the boards can be viewed in the table in the section Floor joists. It is very important for the log that the moisture content does not exceed 19% at the time of construction, that is, it is not a cut board of natural humidity.

These should be chamber dried or dried for at least 4 months in a blown pile. Otherwise, wet boards will continue to dry after laying, which will lead to cracks and deformations. For floor logs, it is not allowed to use lumber with multiple defects: knots, cracks, wane, etc., as this weakens their structural capabilities. However, it is allowed to use light sabers, which are stacked with a bulge up. In the process of loading from above, this defect usually disappears. It is important that the boards for the floor lag of the frame house have a single size in width, as this directly affects the horizontalness of the platform. Otherwise, the floor may start to creak. For the floor log, it is necessary to use high quality edged boards or cut them to one size on a thickness gauge or planer;

Boards for frame walls

Boards are used for frame racks, strapping, window and door openings. For walls of frame walls, boards with a section of 38 x 140-184 mm are used; for internal - 38 x 89-140 mm. The stud spacing for exterior walls is 407 mm or 610.5 mm (16"" and 24"" respectively) and corresponds to the dimension of plywood or osb / OSB outer sheathing sheets 1220 x 2440 mm (4""x8""). The dimensions of the boards in America are different from those stated. For example, a board with a section of 2""x6"" is actually not 50 x 152 mm, but 38 x 140 mm. From the sawmill, the boards come out of the declared size, but in the process of drying and gouging they lose weight. Actual board dimensions:

• 2""x2"" = 38 x 38 mm;
• 2""x4"" = 38 x 89 mm;
• 2""x6"" = 38 x 140 mm;
• 2""x8"" = 38 x 184 mm;
• 2""x10"" = 38 x 235 mm;
• 2""x12"" = 38 x 286 mm.

For frame racks, boards with a moisture content of not more than 19% are also used, that is, these boards must first be dried. It is very important that these boards are well sized or planed to a minimum width. Subsequently, sheets of outer and inner cladding are attached to them. It is possible to correct differences of 3-5 mm, but it is better to avoid this, since the process of leveling the frame racks itself takes time. As in the case of floor logs, sabers can be used, but they must be installed in one direction: for external walls, bending inwards, for internal walls, simply in one direction.

For frame racks, boards with minor defects can be used: resin pockets, knots, wane, etc., since their task is to withstand vertical loads. For short racks under windows, above doorways, you can use boards of short length, which remain after laying the logs and strappings. You can also cut good pieces from defective boards and use them in these knots. For double and triple frame racks, it is necessary to choose boards that are planed or even on all sides. This achieves a good fit of the racks to each other and reduces the risk of a gap in the future. For frame racks, it is convenient to saw 6 meter boards into two parts, which allows you to build frame houses with 3 meter ceilings. Although the ceiling height is usually 2.4 m (8") in Canada and the USA. Frame stud boards must be carefully trimmed and uniform in size. This allows the following floors of the frame house to be level;

Boards of the truss system of a frame house

The rafter system of a frame house usually consists of powerful ridge beams, the rafters themselves and various options for battens and counter battens. For ridge beams, boards that are even in length are used, dried to a minimum of 19%, from which a single ridge is assembled. The cross section of such boards depends on the angle of the roof and the length of the ridge beam and is usually in a wide range of 38 x 89-286 mm. There are several options for connecting boards into a single skate. The choice very often depends on the availability of lumber of the right size. For example, a ridge beam 11 meters long and 286 mm wide can be made from two boards with a section of 38 x 286 x 6,000 mm, washed down at a V-angle, or from four boards with a section of 38 x 140 x 5-6000 mm with a Z-shaped connection .

For rafters, boards with a section of 38 x 89-235 mm are used. The step and section of the boards depends on the length of the span covered by the rafters, the presence of struts, puffs. The choice of the optimal section of the board for the truss system can be found in the tables (section Roof of a frame house). If the standard 6 meter length boards are not enough, then the boards can be spliced ​​along the length using nails and bolts. For the rafter system, boards that have undergone a drying procedure (chamber or atmospheric) are also used. It is allowed to use boards with minor defects (knots, wane), if this does not affect the bearing capacity of the rafters. Light sabers are installed with a convexity upwards, the load of the roof should return them to a level state. Boards for rafters should be the same in width, so they should be selected very carefully. In case of a difference in the width of the rafters, it is necessary to first plan or program through the thickness gauge.

Board for crates. For some roofs, it is necessary to mount a batten and a counter batten, which together with the windproof membrane create a ventilated roof space. For battens and counter battens, boards and bars with a section of 25-50 x 50-100 mm are used. For these purposes, edged boards of natural moisture can be used, since, for example, an inch crate 25 x 100 mm attached to the rafters will dry with little or no deformation. With regard to the bar, the choice of material is strongly influenced by the quality of this lumber. Usually the bars are sold in packages of 6 pieces and 3 m long. Rogue merchants put bars with deformations, wane, damaged by fungus inside the package. Before buying, it is necessary to open each bundle and selectively check the section of the bar with a caliper and reject low-quality bars. Very often, bars with a section of 40 x 40, 40-50 and 50 x 50 mm can simultaneously fall into 1 package. Check - this is the guarantee that you will buy high-quality lumber;

Board for spacers, blocks for frame walls.

Between the lags, as well as the frame racks of the internal walls, fixing and fire blocks are installed. Usually, trimmings are used for this, which remain after trimming the frame racks, strapping boards and floor logs. There are no special requirements for blocks, as these are short pieces of normal lumber. Check the width before installation, as the platform sheathing rests on the blocks between the joists and the block boards must have the same width as the floor joists. With a competent calculation of the lumber of a frame house, the waste of boards will be no more than 10%. Moreover, many trimmings will then be used for embedded boards in the construction of frame walls, in order to subsequently attach plumbing fixtures, hanging furniture, and drywall to them. Therefore, do not store trimmings as construction debris in the open;

6) Jaws

For jibs that cut into the frame racks of external walls and strapping boards, you can use boards with a section of 25-38 x 100 x 200 mm. Usually, boards with pronounced defects (deformations, resin pockets, knots, etc.) go to the jibs - everything that was rejected during the construction of a frame house. Due to the fact that the jibs cut hard and are nailed to the posts, you can even level boards that are deformed in two planes.

A beam with a section of 100-200 x 100-200 mm is usually used for arranging verandas and terraces. The use of timber for corner posts threatens subsequently with freezing of the corners of the frame house; if you decide to use timber to strengthen the floor lag, then you must choose dried lumber, since raw timber is subject to significant deformation during drying. In our markets, it can be difficult to choose a beam of the required size if you decide to combine it in the ceiling with plank joists. It is more reliable to use double and triple boards reinforced with threaded studs or bolts. In this case, the price will be in favor of the boards.

8) Bars for crates

Bars with a section of 40-50 x 40-50 mm are used for the installation of internal or external crates. If you are planning a cross-frame installation, then after installing the slab insulation between the frame racks of the outer walls, flat (calibrated or planed) bars are nailed in a horizontal direction in increments of the size of the insulation. Thus, the "cold bridges" are blocked. Then a vapor barrier and a vertical crate of an inch board for drywall are installed. The device of the outer crate of even (calibrated or planed) bars involves the installation of horizontal siding in the future. There is no need to prepare that by saving and choosing bad quality bars, you will get a crooked facade or burst drywall.

Carefully approach the choice of boards for. The difference in price between the cheapest offer - edged board of natural humidity and planed boards of chamber drying can reach 60-100%. You can compensate for this difference with the speed of assembly of the frame, the lightness and quality of the finish. Be prepared for the fact that even if you buy high-quality lumber, some of the boards will turn out to be unsuitable at first glance. Subsequently, you will use them for girders, short posts, fixing leveled walls of a frame house, scaffolding and building platforms. On a general scale, the cost of the highest quality boards does not exceed 7-10%. If it is not possible to buy planed lumber, then try to agree on the choice of boards in order to pick up boards of the same dimension of good quality.

I specifically do not consider the use of glued laminated timber, LVL beams or as an alternative to boards, as they will be discussed in the following sections of the site.

The first step is to prepare the foundation. The easiest way, as we wrote earlier. During the construction of this barn, a concrete foundation was prepared. Boreholes with a depth of 800 mm and a diameter of 200 mm were made for the foundation. Rolled roofing material was used for formwork, which protruded 500 mm above ground level. Reinforcement was welded from three rods. The last stage of the foundation is concreting. Use a hydraulic level to keep the foundation level. And here is the finished foundation:

Timber barn frame

For the frame, a beam of 100x100 mm was taken. In order for the frame to be reliable and not stagger, a farm is needed. Farm (from lat. firmus- durable) allows you to save the geometric shape of the barn. A 100 × 50 mm board was used as a truss (in the photo, the boards are dark in color - this is the truss).

Shed roof 6×3m

The next step is the crate of the roof of the shed. I used an unedged board 100x25 mm. Corrugated sheets were chosen as the coating. Sheets of 2500 mm were purchased. Since we do not need such a length, the sheets were cut to 2000 mm. The remains of the cut sheets were subsequently used to cover the foundation of the shed (see last photo).

For the ridge and ebbs, cut straight sheets of iron were used and bent as needed. Sheets are fastened with an overlap (15-20 centimeters) on self-tapping screws.

Last steps

The outer edges of the timber and the lower trim of the shed were impregnated with working off to protect the wood from decay. The frame of the barn was upholstered with a 150x25 board with a slight overlap (about 20mm).

The next step is painting. A walnut finish was used. The first layer was applied with a brush, then two more layers with an airbrush. What happened, you can see for yourself:

A 40x100 board was laid on the floor of the barn. The bottom of the barn, as I wrote above, was sealed with the remnants of the corrugation.

A door was made from the remains of a 100x25 board. Installed the door, painted and inserted windows. Here's what happened in the end:

It remains to finish the steps and you're done! I worked alone and only on weekends. There was no construction experience. As a result, the construction of the 6 × 3 barn on its own took two and a half months. Looking back, here's what went wrong:

• It’s better to take it to the roof - it would be much easier than fiddling with corrugated sheets;
• The roof is also easier to make a shed. Although the gable looks prettier;
• I decided not to buy ebbs, but made it myself. Due to inexperience, the tides came out high, it was possible to reduce them by another 5 centimeters.

Estimate for the construction of a barn 6 × 3

To have an idea of ​​how much it will cost to build a barn with your own hands, I knocked out such an estimate:

1. Cement - 1500 rubles;
2. Ruberoid - 530 rubles (2 rolls);
3. Nails - 1500 rubles;
4. Timber 100x100x6000 mm - 6750 rubles (18 pieces);
5. Timber 100x50x6000 mm - 2200 rubles (12 pieces);
6. Draft board 25x100x6000 mm - 2860 rubles (45 pieces);
7. Board 25x150x6000 mm - 12500 rubles (90 pieces);
8. Board 40x100x6000 mm - 5000 rubles (33 pieces);
9. Corrugated sheets 2500mm - 7000 rubles (14 pieces);
10. Sheets of iron 2500mm - 3000 rubles (6 pieces);
11. Walnut impregnation - 2800 rubles;
12. White paint - 700 rubles;
13. Door lock - 220 rubles;
14. Door hinges - 180 rubles.

TOTAL: 46,740 rubles. Didn't count the windows because I already had them. If you add, for example, PVC windows, the barn will turn out to be under fifty thousand.

The first building that appears on a new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and roomy. At first, until the bare territory of the dacha is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will long remain the only haven for inventory, building materials and country property.

Which barn option to choose for a summer residence

Depending on the plans for the future development of the suburban area, the availability of free time and money, there are several ways to solve the problem of an utility room on a suburban area:

• Hire a team and build a capital shed of brick or foam block, with a shed roof and a basement;
• Do-it-yourself pour a concrete foundation for a future building, buy a five-ton railway container and install it in a summer cottage instead of a barn;
• Build an ordinary barn with a shed roof, 3x6 in size, from timber and boards, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience will not hesitate to vote in favor of the latter option, this is the most balanced and considered decision.

Advice! We don’t immediately build a barn from foam blocks on a “clean” site from the point of view of planning, often household buildings of this type have to be demolished or transferred in favor of a summer house or garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater capital investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that at a considerable cost, there are no tangible advantages over a shed wooden shed measuring 3x6.

Optimal design of a wooden shed 3x6

The most difficult element of a homemade barn is its roof. Choose a shed roof for your shed, you can't go wrong. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to put shed roofs on sheds, they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, a shed roof of a barn with your own hands can be done step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire shed construction relative to the wind rose in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the overhang and roof gables:

1. The design of the barn, with dimensions of 3x6 m, with a shed roof is shown in the drawing;
2. The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 pillars. A standard cinder block is used as the material for the pillars, but it is better to cast the pillars from concrete in the formwork;
3. The basis of a shed is a frame made of boards and timber, the dimensions of the building are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of the rafters is 2.7 m;
4. A shed roof is made according to the classical scheme, on hanging rafters with stuffed batten boards and a flat roof. As a roofing, you can use corrugated board, ondulin, or make a two-layer version of roll material, for example, roofing material.

The construction will turn out to be very simple and light, if you properly assemble the foundation, then a wooden frame box with a pitched roof can easily withstand winds of 18-25 m / s. If there are no strong winds in the area where the barn is planned to be installed, then during the construction of the walls, you can limit yourself to vertical drains from the board and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, it is recommended to strengthen the vertical bearing supports with side struts, as in the photo.

The same applies to the construction of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a shed roof without using ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper wall trim and the Mauerlat will need to be supported with additional vertical supports from the timber. For windy terrain, a shed roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle part of the rafters.

We build a barn with a shed roof with our own hands

• For the frame, material with a section of 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 -19 pcs.;
• For the floor, a board measuring 25x100 mm - 27 pieces;
• For the lathing and roof supports, 43 boards with a section of 25x100 mm are needed.

All joints and connections are made with carpentry black self-tapping screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and building corners, but such savings are not always justified.

We make the foundation for a barn 3x6

After choosing the construction site for the barn, it will be necessary to plan and remove soil on a site measuring at least 3x6 m. It makes no sense to make a larger building spot. In order not to pester the vegetation, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the installation points of the pillars we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and sized for a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits, we pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand with a layer of 5 cm, after which we lay out columnar supports from the cinder block on a masonry mortar with the addition of PVA.

Before laying out, you will need to stretch the horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support so that the entire supporting surface of the pillars is in the same horizontal plane.

A day later, you can install a strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped tie-ins are made with half-cut ends, each connection is reinforced with self-tapping screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

We collect the frame and shed roof

At the next stage, you will need to install the supporting vertical racks, they are highlighted in orange in the drawing. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the pitched roof.

We make the central load-bearing racks from a 50x100 board, for the back wall you will need to cut three racks of 220 mm each, for the front wall - four racks of 250 mm each. We pre-fix each support on the lower trim with one self-tapping screw, then set the exact horizontal position along the building level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and we carry out the strapping of the upper tier of the frame under the future pitched roof. In order to give the entire shed structure additional rigidity, it is necessary to sew up the floor with a grooved board before starting the assembly of the shed roof elements.

Further, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, lathing material, side racks, lower and upper trim must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time that the assembly of the rafters and the roof of the pitched roof will be carried out, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the upper overhang of a shed roof, the installation of rafters and battens, you will need to fix an additional horizontal Mauerlat beam, as in the diagram.

Washed down the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markup or according to the prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards, they will fix the rafters from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the shed roof.

Roofing and finishing works

At the final stage, we sew up the rafters of a shed roof with a sheathing board. If bituminous materials are used for the roof of the barn - flexible tiles and roofing material, additional OSB sheets will need to be laid on the boards or the sheathing will be hammered with solid wooden clapboard.

The easiest way to cover a shed roof is with corrugated board. The metal surface will withstand any cataclysms that may arise in a summer cottage, and laying and fixing roofing material is much easier and faster than euroslate or roofing material. As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film is laid, the edges of which will be released from under the canopies and nailed to the upper edge of the wooden walls of the barn.

Roofing on a shed roof starts from the bottom left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined with the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The places of overlap, the lower and upper edges must be pierced with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

On the sides of the roofing cake, wind strips are nailed to protect the shed roof from water leakage and gusts of wind. We nail a similar rail for the installation of a drainage gutter under the lower overhang. We protect the upper overhang of a shed roof with a screen of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of the barn, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, so lining, ordinary edged boards or OSB sheet panels can be used as wall lining material. To stuff the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and gaps between the OSB boards and the edged board must be blown out with mounting foam, the excess foam must be cut off and be sure to paint over with weather-resistant paint.

Conclusion

The chosen version of the barn with a shed roof, 3x6 m in size, can stand for up to 15 years without repair, subject to a competent choice of protective paint and varnish materials. This design has one indisputable advantage - a shed made of timber with a pitched roof can be relatively easily disassembled and moved to a new location after a summer cottage or a new shed made of foam blocks has been built.

Prove that the checkerboard is 10X10 cannot be cut along grid lines into rectangles 1X4. (Solutions according to D.Yu. Kuznetsov.)

Solution 1 . Divide the board into 2x2 squares and color them in a checkerboard pattern (Fig. 1). Note that any 1x4 rectangle contains equally (2 each) black and white cells, but with this coloring, there are 52 black cells and 48 white cells on the board, i.e. not equally. This means that it will not be possible to cut a 10x10 board into 1x4 rectangles.

Solution 2 . Let's color the board with a diagonal coloring in 4 colors (Fig. 2). Note that any rectangle contains one cell of each of the four colors, but with a given coloring, there are 25 cells of the 1st and 3rd colors on the board, 26 cells of the 2nd and 24 cells of the 4th, i.e. not equally. This means that it will not be possible to cut a 10x10 board into 1x4 rectangles.

1. Cut out the lower right and left corner cells from the chessboard. Can the resulting figure be cut into 1x2 dominoes? And if you cut the bottom right and top left?

2. Is it possible to cut a 6x6 board into dominoes so that there are exactly 11 horizontal ones among them? (Horizontal coloring in two colors.)

3. Color the drawing in four colors so that adjacent parts are painted in different colors. Is it possible to get by with three colors? (See Activity 6: Coloring a Map - Grades 5-6).

4. In a 4x4 square, the cells of the left half are painted black, and the rest white. In one operation, it is allowed to recolor all the cells inside any rectangle in the opposite color. How to get a chess coloring from the original coloring in three operations?

5. Several grasshoppers sit on the same straight line, and the distances between neighbors are the same. Every minute one of them jumps to a point symmetrical to it with respect to another grasshopper. Can after some time the grasshopper Sasha end up in the place where his neighbor Lyosha was sitting at the beginning?

6. a) Is it possible to cut a chessboard into figures consisting of 4 cells in the shape of the letter "T"?

b) Is it possible to cut a 10x10 chessboard into such figures?

7. Is it possible to split an 8x8 square with a corner cut off into 1x3 rectangles?

8. Can a 10x10 board be cut into pieces of four cells in the shape of the letter "G"? (Horizontal coloring in two colors.)

9. An 8x8 board is cut into 2x1 dominoes. Can there be 15 vertical and 17 horizontal dominoes?

10. The triangle is divided into triangles (25 pieces), as shown in the figure. The beetle can walk in a triangle, moving between adjacent (on the side) triangles. What is the maximum number of triangles that the beetle can pass through if it has visited each triangle no more than once?

11. What is the largest number of rhombuses, each of which is made up of two equilateral triangles with side 1, that can be cut out of an equilateral triangle with side 5 (see the figure of the previous problem).

12. The triangular castle is divided into 100 identical triangular halls. There is a door in the middle of each wall. How many rooms can be visited by a person who does not want to visit anywhere more than once?

The construction of a 6x6 frame house with a terrace in two hands is quite feasible. Especially if before that you study the experience of your predecessors in order to borrow valuable information regarding the materials, technologies and techniques used. To this end, let's turn to the experience of the GrauRu forum member, who almost single-handedly built such a house. Due to the lack of labor costs, the cost of such a house is less than a million rubles.

• prefabricated;
• low cost;
• ease of construction;
• environmental friendliness;
• good "warm-up" and the ability to retain heat;
• design flexibility.

Based on the size of the building material (pine boards), the dimensions of the building were determined: it should be a 6x6 frame house with a terrace. The layout of the first floor included three rooms. Instead of the second floor - attic.

After determining the snow load (240 kg / m2) and the weight of the roof (40 kg / m2), a quality board 50x200 was chosen for the rafters. Since the ridge was not provided, the legs were knocked together in pairs into a triangle and connected with a nail plate on one side, and on the other with a plywood triangle. The width of the reference cut was determined by a measuring board, the length of which was equal to the width of the overlap. To add rigidity, each pair of rafters was additionally fixed with a coupler at a level of 2.5 m from the floor and a special jumper at an angle of 30 degrees. From the inside, the rafters received additional insurance in the form of a metal tape attached to the logs and stretched diagonally in a cross. To facilitate the lifting of the structure, a cord was used.

Under the excessive roof overhangs, a “ladder” had to be hammered together, since the removal of the beams was not thought out. The pediment with a step of 40 cm corresponded to the location of the pillars on the roof.

The large roof created significant windage, so for insurance it was necessary to skip the metal tape from the rafters along the racks to the strapping before installing the OSB boards. This was not done, the rafters had to be attached to the racks from the inside. I did the same with the lags, which I fixed with a harness. It is better to use metal perforated tape.

The canopy for the veranda and the roof of the house formed a single whole. Pillars and beams are made of timber 100x150. The step between the pillars is 2 m, the beam had a protrusion of 60 cm to form the roof overhang. To prevent the structure from walking, window corners 37x37 were used to stiffen it.

The time spent on the installation of rafters is 10 man-days.

wall cladding

Sheathing of the 6x6 frame house was carried out with OSB slabs 2.8 m manufactured by Egger, and fastening was carried out with 60 mm screw nails, which were driven in at 15 cm increments along the perimeter and 30 cm along the middle post. The position of the rack on the sheet was noted before the moment of installation. The binding was closed with a sheet using a 25 cm guide board.

The joints of the plates should be nailed apart, and the nails should be directed at a slight angle.

Labor costs - 3 man-days.

Roof covering and platform decking

Before laying the roof, a layer of vapor barrier was laid on the rafters - a Tyvek membrane film, and on top of it - a crate. As a material, they chose puretan metal tiles with a slightly thicker galvanization and a durable coating compared to others. During the laying of the tiles, ventilation ducts were made for the bathroom and the room, as well as a stove outlet.

25mm OSB with 4-sided tongue and groove was chosen as the decking. Installation took 1 day.

Warming

Insulation was chosen based on the optimal price-quality ratio. Most of all, Rockwool Light Butts Scandic (60x80 cm), Scandic XL (60x120 cm) for interiors and Technolight for exterior insulation met this criterion. The thickness of the slabs was chosen to be 100 and 50 mm in order to close all the openings in the walls and ceilings as much as possible. The most suitable step between the frame elements for laying Rockwool is 57-58 cm. Plywood sheets were used to keep the insulation in the ceiling opening. The crate for external insulation was made with a step of 59 cm. After laying Technolight, a Tyvek membrane was stretched over it. Styrofoam was used to insulate the windows.