Natural ventilation in the bathroom of the apartment. Forced ventilation in the bathroom - types and installation. So, in order to establish ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary
The bathroom and toilet are rooms in the process of arranging which, first of all, you need to think about organizing intensive air exchange. This is due to the specifics of the operation of hygienic premises. Polluted and waterlogged air should be freely removed, and a fresh portion should be supplied to replace it.
We will tell you how ventilation should be arranged in the bathroom and toilet according to building codes and regulations. In the article presented by us, options for organizing ventilation that have been proven in practice are analyzed in detail. Independent home masters will find detailed installation manuals with us.
The opinion that the absence of a ventilation shaft in the bathroom and toilet will only lead to fogging of the mirrors is fundamentally wrong. The main problem is the appearance of fungus (most often it can be seen on the seams between the tiles) and rust on the surface of appliances and furniture.
Often, it is precisely because of an improperly designed ventilation system that corrosion affects the working parts of the washing machine, which is the reason for its breakdown. The list of problems that the lack of intensive air exchange leads to does not end there. As a result, poor ventilation will have a detrimental effect on the health of residents.
Sanitary requirements and norms
There are special rules that must be followed when organizing forced air exchange in rooms with high humidity levels. At a minimum, it is necessary to provide an influx of fresh air in the amount of 6-7 m 3 / hour for each cubic meter of the bathroom and about 8-10 m 3 / hour for a toilet or a combined bathroom.
The difference between natural ventilation and forced ventilation
There is natural and forced ventilation. In the first case, air exchange is provided by the circulation of air masses through door and window openings. About a century ago, natural ventilation was considered the most efficient way.
Today, it is unable to provide a sufficient level of air exchange, therefore it is used only for inflow. To fully ventilate the room, choose the option with coercion. After all, no one wants to open the window for a long time in winter and let out heat.
The organization of forced ventilation involves the installation of an exhaust fan. Thanks to this, you can save precious heat, remove excess moisture and fill the room with fresh and clean air in a matter of minutes.
The main reason why it is worth installing forced ventilation is precisely sized doorways and the tightness of modern double-glazed windows. Such perfectionism, keeping warm, makes it impossible for any natural air exchange.
Calculation of optimal performance
Before going to the store and buying equipment for installing forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, you need to make some calculations. To select the equipment that is optimal in terms of performance, you need to know the exact volume and type of room.
Each room has its own air exchange rate. This characteristic shows how many times the air in the room should be completely updated per unit of time (usually one hour is taken). Since the bathroom and toilet are considered one of the wettest places in any apartment or house, a maximum air exchange rate of 10 is recommended.
If the fan cannot be placed in an optimal place for organizing intensive air exchange, then its power must be multiplied by 2-3 times
And also should immediately provide holes for air flow. To do this, you can leave a gap of up to 2 cm between the floor and the door, install special gratings at the bottom of the doors to the bathroom and toilet, or drill holes yourself. But the last option does not look the most attractive way.
Exhaust fan classification
When planning the arrangement of the ventilation system, special attention should be paid to the principle of its operation and individual components. After all, the performance, the noise level of the equipment, the cost of installation and durability depend on it.
For forced evacuation of exhaust air from the room, three types of fans are used:
- diametric;
- axial;
- radial.
The first type of devices is designed to work in heat guns and air conditioning systems. Therefore, it is not suitable for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. It remains to choose from two other types.
The main difference between axial models and radial ones is their low cost and high power. But at the same time, the device will make quite a lot of noise. An axial fan is an impeller to which the blades are attached. The system is driven by an electric motor.
As for radial units, their functioning is based on the action of centrifugal force. Due to the rotation of the impeller, together with the blades, the movement of air masses is carried out.
At the same time, the inclination of the blades can be changed, thereby reducing the amount of energy consumed by the device and the level of noise emitted by it. The article recommended by us will acquaint you with popular models intended for installation in bathrooms.
To prevent the air from the ventilation shaft from returning back into the room, it is recommended to buy devices with a check valve. Such devices are indispensable in modern apartments.
The main criteria for choosing equipment
Manufacturers offer just a huge range. Therefore, it is not surprising that every unprepared buyer falls into a stupor and does not even suspect that it is better for him to order.
When buying an exhaust device for a bathroom and toilet, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Duct diameter. Depending on this characteristic, the fan nozzle is selected. As a rule, standard models have a diameter of 150, 125 or 100 mm.
- Presence/absence of air ducts, as well as their location in the room. These criteria affect where the fan will be installed.
- Power. The characteristic is important when choosing, so that in the future the exhaust equipment can cope with the functions assigned to it.
- Moisture protection available. This indicator is marked in Latin letters IP. The minimum required value for a plumbing unit is IP30, but it is better to invest a little and order a device with IP44. In the latter case, it will be located in a special sealed casing, protected from moisture and splashes.
- Noise level. Few people pay due attention to this important characteristic, but in vain. After all, a silent exhaust system will make being in the bathroom and toilet more comfortable.
Given these subtleties, you can choose a model that will be inexpensive and satisfy all wishes.
Typically, the fan package includes the device itself and four dowels that will be needed for its installation. In most cases, a cardboard box is used to pack the device.
Additional equipment features
An excellent solution would be to order a fan with additional features. Most often, buyers prefer models with a built-in timer.
In this case, the user can leave the factory settings or program the operation of the device on his own, changing the operating time, switching on delay, etc. Thanks to this, it is possible to automate the process of ventilation of the toilet and bathroom.
Devices with a built-in timer are quite expensive. Therefore, their choice should be treated with all responsibility. Maico's products are the best. This manufacturer offers a number of models that are equipped not only with a timer, but also with other additional features.
To save energy, fans will help you switch the base load. That is, the unit can operate in two modes: half of its power and at full capacity, when you need to update the air in the room in the shortest possible time. Thanks to this function, the noise of the ventilation system is significantly reduced and energy is saved.
A good solution would be to buy a device with a clock or backlight. These additional features will make showering or bathing more convenient and comfortable.
Any specialist will prefer a device with a built-in humidity sensor. Its peculiarity is that it turns on only at the signal of the built-in hygrometer. Thanks to this function, electricity is saved and there is no need to output a separate electrical outlet for the fan or connect the device to a light switch.
Components and materials of the system
To date, ventilation is assembled from a round or rectangular section. As a rule, they are made of metal or plastic. These elements are mounted behind a suspended ceiling.
If we are talking about bathrooms and a toilet in a small apartment, then in such housing the ventilation duct is a hole in the wall where a fan is inserted. In this case, there is no point and need to design a complex, branched system.
As for private houses, ventilation for them is constructed from the following elements:
- air ducts. It is much more convenient to install rectangular ducts. They are compactly placed under the ceiling and do not take up extra space. These are pipes, the length of which can be 2, 1 and 0.5 m.
- fan. An overhead or built-in device is used. The latter variety is best used in branched and complex systems. Overhead models are recommended for ventilation of one room.
- Swivel elbows. In the case of rectangular pipes, swivel elbows can be vertical and horizontal.
- Couplings. These elements are used to connect straight sections of the ventilation system.
- check valves. They are designed to prevent air and insects from entering the mine.
During installation, you will also need fasteners. It is much more convenient to use ready-made elements. They will greatly simplify the installation process and speed up the work.
But if you need to save money, then the fastening elements can be made independently.
In the event of a design error or insufficiently efficient operation of the ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet of a private house, the problem can be eliminated by installing it into the wall. Features of the choice of the specified device and installation rules are given in the article, the contents of which we advise you to read.
Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
Before starting installation work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First of all, you need to compare the diameter of the exhaust device with the size of the shaft.
If the vent turned out to be large, then a plastic pipe or corrugation is inserted into it. In this case, the voids should be sealed with mounting foam. If the entrance to the ventilation shaft is smaller, then it can be expanded with a perforator.
Determination of the place for installation
For forced ventilation to be as effective as possible, it is not enough just to purchase powerful equipment. It is equally important to choose the right place for installation.
Since it is designed to remove hot, moist air, the best solution would be to install it in the upper part of the wall, which is located opposite the door.
It is also important to organize the flow into the room - you have to build a special grate into the lower part of the door or leave the usual slot under the door (a more economical way). Such options will allow fresh air to flow from the living room to the bathroom.
Diagnosis of the state of the ventilation duct
If you are thinking about remodeling a bathroom or toilet, then before starting any work, you should carry out the methods available to the owners.
First of all, the thrust is checked, for which a sheet of plain paper, a lit match or a lighter is leaned against the shaft. If the paper sticks to the ventilation grate, and the flame tilts towards the channel, then this is a good sign.
To improve draft, it is recommended to check if the ventilation duct is clogged with debris left after inept repairs or for any other reason. After cleaning, check the draft with the door open and closed
Choice of device connection scheme
If we consider a standard apartment in a new building, then in the vast majority of cases, natural ventilation is not enough to remove all excess moisture from the bathroom. The only exception is a private house, in the toilet of which there is a window.
But when arranging forced ventilation, the question is of interest: how long should the exhaust device work? Often apartment owners. This means that the device will be able to work exactly as long as the person will be in the bathroom. This may not be enough.
The second method is based on connecting the fan to a separate switch. But in this case, the user will forget to turn on / off the device. Therefore, a suitable solution would be to install a fan with a humidity sensor. Such devices work autonomously and without human intervention remove excess moisture from the bathroom.
Due to the convenience and energy savings, the most popular method is when the fan is connected to a light switch. But this method is not very efficient.
Fan installation subtleties
Before proceeding with the arrangement of the ventilation system, it is imperative that you read the instructions that come with the devices. In the vast majority of cases, the entire installation process is described in detail in the insert. This will greatly simplify and speed up the work.
The most time-consuming stage is the installation and connection of the fan.
- Remove front cover.
- In those areas where the fan is adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to apply polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails. All of the above methods of fastening are perfect, since exhaust devices are most often made of plastic and, accordingly, are light in weight. Therefore, liquid nails will be enough.
- Insert the fan in such a way that its working part (electric motor and wheel with blades) are completely “drowned” in the wall.
- Press the body of the unit firmly so that the adhesive has time to grab.
- Install a mosquito net. This element will protect against the penetration of various insects and debris from the ventilation duct into the room.
- Fasten the front cover with the screws or dowels that come with the kit.
The final stage is the laying of the cable and the connection of the ventilation system to the electrical network.
The whole installation process is quite simple, but if there are any problems or difficulties, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.
Forced ventilation significantly increases the amount of air removed from the room. But since the front cover covers a large part of the channel, when the device is turned off, the flow rate decreases several times. Because of this, its performance drops significantly.
The above problem is solved by installing an air intake grille. This will help restore normal performance. The second way is to leave a small gap (1-3 cm) between the front cover and the wall. Air will be sucked into the resulting gap and ventilation will work normally.
When connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network, safety rules must be observed. First of all, you need to make sure that the wires are de-energized. In addition, for their connection it is better to use not "twisting", but terminal blocks
Common installation errors
If an inexperienced master is engaged in the arrangement of the ventilation system, then situations often arise when, after the end of work, its performance does not satisfy the wishes of the residents or it is not efficient.
The reason for this lies in the assumption of errors during installation. To avoid the appearance of elementary problems, you need to know some of the nuances.
The most common errors in the installation of the ventilation system:
- the channel is designed incorrectly, which greatly complicates the movement of air;
- fans are very noisy during operation;
- the tightness of the shaft connection is broken;
- the ventilation system passes through the dwelling and its noise interferes with the normal life of the family.
If the design was done incorrectly, then the problems listed above will certainly appear. At the same time, it is often necessary to completely redo the ventilation system to correct them.
In some cases, a strong hum when the fan is running is a clear sign of incorrect installation and an error called “alignment”. This problem is solved by dismantling the device and re-installing it, but with strict adherence to technology
You can go the easy way. For example, noise absorbers are recommended to reduce noise. As for increasing the ventilation performance, for this you will have to install a new, more powerful exhaust device and check the quality of the air supply to the bathroom and toilet.
For people who are faced with the organization of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet for the first time, it will be useful to read the tips from experienced craftsmen. First of all, they recommend ensuring a normal flow of fresh air into the room. Indeed, otherwise the operation of the exhaust fan will be meaningless.
It is not necessary to buy expensive and bulky systems. Spending fabulous sums is not always the best solution. It is enough to correctly and correctly select the devices, then even cheap models will perfectly cope with the ventilation of the room.
When choosing a fan, in no case should you save on quality. After all, the health of each family member, as well as the life of the device, depends on it. It is better to spend money once, but order a device that will serve faithfully for decades.
If the house has an air conditioner, an ionizer, a cleaner, and similar devices, then it is still necessary to install ventilation. After all, none of the devices listed above provides an influx of fresh air into the living quarters.
Rules for operating the exhaust system
In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive maintenance. After all, dust and dirt accumulate on the fan blades over time. This does not allow the device to work at the maximum of its capabilities and provide decent air exchange. Moreover, if the cleaning is not carried out in a timely manner, the device may fail.
Installing a forced ventilation system allows you to solve the problem of airing rooms that is relevant for modern houses and apartments. Windows are rarely installed in bathrooms and toilets, so the only correct and reasonable solution would be to provide intensive air exchange artificially, by installing a fan in the system.
High-quality ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an integral element of the comfort and cleanliness of these premises. Unlike other rooms, they put forward increased requirements for convenience and accuracy.
The intended purpose of such sanitary facilities implies the need to constantly maintain cleanliness close to ideal. The ventilation system plays one of the leading roles in this process.
Cleanliness and freshness of the air is an indisputable condition for a comfortable stay in the room. But if in living rooms this condition is quite simple to observe with the help of ventilation through the windows, then in the toilet and bathroom there are some difficulties with it. Not every bathroom in a private house can boast of having a sufficient window opening. Features of the location of the premises in the apartment rarely imply the presence of a window as such.
Typical multi-apartment buildings, as a rule, "hide" the sanitary zone in a "blind" box of a small area with a common air ventilation duct. It is implemented as a small opening under the ceiling, working according to the natural supply and exhaust principle.
Consequences of poor ventilation
Sanitary facilities in apartment buildings, equipped with windows, are mostly shared bathrooms in high-rise buildings of a non-standard type. However, even if there is a window opening, the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet may not be intensive enough, which will certainly cause discomfort for residents and visitors.
In fact, the rooms that most of all need high-quality cleaning from odors and moisture have the most difficult mechanism for the operation of the hood. In addition, the appearance of unpleasant odors is far from the most dangerous problem of poor ventilation of the sanitary area. The accumulated excess moisture is a favorable environment for the development of fungal mold and pathogens.
To avoid violating hygiene standards, it is recommended to choose the right type of ventilation for the bathroom and toilet in a timely manner.
It is also allowed to improve existing ventilation - this can be done independently. This measure is quite relevant for typical high-rise buildings.
Two types of ventilation systems
Approving the best way to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet usually comes down to choosing between two main system options - natural and forced. Each of them has its own merits. Comparison of options should be based on the current need and the effectiveness of the currently established system.
There are practically no difficulties with how to check the ventilation in the sanitary rooms. If an unpleasant smell persists for a long time in the room, a feeling of stale, stale air appears, the level of humidity rises noticeably - this is a signal to check the condition and effectiveness of the vents. The appearance of fungus on the walls and wet plaque is a direct evidence of the need for urgent modernization of the air exchange system.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet provides fresh air, effectively removes odors. In the projects of multi-storey buildings, a general ventilation device was originally laid down, private traders do it on their own. When ventilation is poor in a high-rise building, they look for a way out of the situation.
Ventilation is important for health, creating a microclimate. For rooms with high humidity and odors, it must be effective. Standards and rules determine: the bathroom should consume 25 m3 / hour, for a combined bathroom, twice as much is required.
Soviet-era buildings and inexpensive modern buildings are predominantly equipped with natural ventilation. The air flow occurs due to the difference in temperature outside and inside. Sometimes a deflector is installed to enhance traction, especially in windy weather. This is a cheap and easy way to install ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. The system does without electricity, special care is not required. But it almost does not work in the heat, it is sensitive to clogging.
Forced system equipment will need fans
The forced system uses a built-in fan. It pulls the air out of the bathroom, fresh air enters in its place. Weather conditions do not affect the operation, the right fans guarantee the necessary air exchange. The forced system uses the electricity supplied to the appliances. Usually installed when standard ventilation fails, it is more efficient.
Forced ventilation for the bathroom and toilet is exhaust, the exchange occurs due to the removal of air. The second type is the supply air: fresh air is injected into the room, an increased pressure is created, and the polluted air comes out through the channels. Sometimes they make a mixed system - a combination of the two previous ones. The ventilation system can be channelless, the exchange takes place through a common channel. Channels are brought to separate sections for air outlet to the outside or connection to the mine.
If the ventilation performance is unknown, the system can be checked very simply. Open the window, the door to the bathroom. Take a paper napkin and attach it to the opening of the shaft. The air flow should press the sheet against the grate. Similarly, use a match, a lighter, a candle. The flame should be directed towards the ventilation duct, and the more, the better.
Natural draft can be checked with matches, a lighter, or a piece of paper.
In the heat, natural air exchange almost does not occur, such a diagnosis may be erroneous.
Close windows and doors, check again. It may turn out that the operation of the hood will deteriorate or will not work at all. You should look for the cause and eliminate it. Among the reasons when the exhaust system suddenly stopped working, the following are most likely:
- replaced the door in the bathroom with more dense and airtight ones that do not allow air to pass through;
- they changed ordinary windows to plastic ones, replaced the front door, the apartment was sealed;
- the mine from above for some reason became clogged;
- neighbors have installed powerful forced ventilation, which drives air into the nearest apartments or interferes with natural circulation.
Forced ventilation in the bathroom will fix all problems, but until you're ready to install it, natural ventilation can be repaired. First check the cleanliness of the mine. Usually in high-rise buildings, this is done by special teams that have everything necessary to clean the ventilation shaft. Calling the brigade will certainly be paid.
You can check the area from the bathroom yourself. Remove the grate, illuminate with a flashlight to see the ventilation duct. If the garbage, the dead bird is in the accessible area, you can clean the mine with a hook. Open fire should not be used for lighting - the garbage flares up immediately, in a matter of seconds the entire mine will burn. You can drop the crowbar into the mine hole on the top floor so that it breaks through the clogged place.
To check and clean the ventilation ducts, it is better to call specialists
If the door in the bathroom is very tight, it needs to be depressurized a little. Do not remove the high threshold, which serves to protect living rooms from possible flooding. It is better to cut the canvas 2 cm from the bottom and ensure air flow. The option with the installation of a lattice in the door looks much more beautiful. A rectangular, round lattice is placed from below into the canvas.
If the house has sealed windows, the walls are insulated with heat-insulating material, even altering the bathroom door will not help. Fresh air can come in if you keep the window open. It is easier to provide a supply valve in the window. It can be installed in a through hole in the wall near the window to hide it behind the curtains. A good option is to install behind the battery, then the cold air will warm up.
In some cases, raising the temperature in the bathroom will help. This is done in several ways: they install a more powerful heated towel rail, arrange a floor heating system, install a radiator if it was not there, or install it with a large number of sections. If the above methods cannot revive the existing ventilation, it's time to think about a forced system.
Choosing a unit for forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet with a variety of designs and various technical characteristics is not an easy task. They differ primarily in the place of installation. Duct mounted in the air duct, behind the shaft grate. Radial are placed at the outlet of the channel. They have an attractive aesthetic body.
The design determines the performance, noise, installation location. There are such fans:
- 1. Axial - captures air with blades and directs along its axis. Creates an average pressure or less, is used for ductless ventilation systems.
- 2. Diametral - with a drum-type working body. The performance is small.
- 3. Centrifugal - made in a spiral housing. The performance is the largest, the noise is also large.
- 4. Centrifugal-axial - absorbed the best indicators of other types. Small, no noise, good performance.
When choosing a fan, read the product data sheet. First of all, safety. The housing must be waterproof, not letting water through on the electrical components. The degree of security is indicated by the IP code with two digits. The first of them indicates the level of protection against ingress of third-party objects, the second - how the device is protected from moisture. For the bathroom, take a fan with IP45. A direct hit by a jet of water will not harm such fans.
The next metric is performance. Ventilation must provide 6–8 air changes. Finding out the required performance is easy. First, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated, the result is multiplied by at least 6, and preferably by 8. For example, the area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom is 10 m 2: a fan is selected that gives 60–80 m 3 of air per hour.
Choose a product with low noise. In a small room, the noise of the operating device is heard very clearly. Noise is determined by the shape of the blades and the speed of rotation. If suitable, choose a large device with low speed. Its noise level is less compared to a small and high-speed one, the performance is similar. Keep in mind: the noise level should not exceed 35 decibels, a higher level irritates the psyche.
When choosing a fan, pay attention to the performance, noiselessness and degree of moisture protection of the case
When mounting the fan, seal the joints with sealant so that the fan does not rattle or vibrate.
Modern fans are additionally equipped with devices that increase functionality. Among them:
- non-return valve - blocks the air from entering the room from the channels;
- humidity sensor - measures the level of steam in the bathroom, turns on the fan;
- motion sensor - the device turns on when there are people in the bathroom;
- timer - turns off the fan after a time after using the switch;
- noise suppressor - installed in front of the device to suppress noise.
Ventilation of a large city house does, for the most part, without additional air ducts. In the niche of the common mine channel, if it is located immediately behind the wall of the bathroom, a fan is mounted. If the channel is placed behind the wall of the toilet and there is a partition with the bathroom, they act differently: they install ventilation grilles on both sides of the wall.
It is possible to use a combined version. The ventilation hole in the bathroom usually allows you to install a fan. If you put it, there will be a complementarity of the forced and natural systems - the best option. But if the ventilation duct is far away, it must be brought into a ventilated room.
The best option is combined (a fan is installed in the vent)
For this, boxes are used. They are rectangular, round or corrugated. Rectangular or round plastic boxes are preferable: they do not conduct noise from the fan well, the air does not encounter resistance in its path. Corrugated can be hard or soft. They are used in places that are difficult to approach or at short distances.
Installation of the hood requires compliance with the rules:
- it is placed on the opposite wall from the front door, as high as possible: installation in a wall with a door reduces circulation;
- a narrow channel hole is expanded with a perforator, a plastic pipe is placed in a wide one;
- the fan is completely recessed into the shaft, fixed with dowels, self-tapping screws, sealant and closed with a grate;
- electrical wiring is performed closed: hidden in a wall or box.
In the toilet, the fan is connected to the light switch, then the odors are removed immediately. For the bathroom, a separate fan switch is preferable.
In the bathroom, you can often find suspended, stretch or false ceilings. Ventilation in the bathroom is designed and installed up to the ceiling. If the hole in the shaft is located below the false ceiling, you should think about the ventilation of the space. The airflow between the ceilings will be provided by a grill close to the vent. If the entrance to the shaft is located above the false ceiling, several ventilation holes are cut out, a fan is placed in one of them.
Ventilation in the private sector is best designed in advance, arranging preliminarily channels for exhaust and electrical wiring. In a small bathroom, you can get by with natural ventilation, in large ones they install forced ventilation. It is necessary to adhere to the rules for the installation of air exhaust ducts:
- air inlets are located at the bottom, the exit is at the top;
- inside the channels are made as smooth as possible;
- straight channels are preferable, turns, if necessary, are smooth;
- for different floors, air ducts are performed separately.
In wooden houses, humidity carries a double threat: it spoils the appearance and damages the structure. For a wooden house, ventilation is mandatory, it is subject to increased requirements. If natural ventilation in the toilet of a private house is allowed on the ground floor, forced ventilation is required upstairs. You can't do without a fan in the bathroom of a wooden house.
The equipment requires maintenance. Grids, the fan are periodically cleaned of dust and dirt, the condition of the nodes is checked. Regular maintenance will ensure proper operation of the system and an acceptable microclimate.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: how to make and install?
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet provides fresh air, effectively removes odors. The projects of multi-storey buildings initially included a device
How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet with your own hands?
An integral part of almost every modern apartment is the ventilation in the bathroom, which performs a number of important functions.
In addition, ventilation in the bathroom plays an important role for a private house, and can also be installed even in the country.
It is she who provides the necessary ventilation of the toilet room, which makes it possible to improve air quality and minimize the risk of mold on the ceiling and walls.
After reading the material, you will learn how to make ventilation in the bathroom and how to understand that it is working correctly.
As you know, there are several types of ventilation systems that can be used in the bathroom, namely forced and natural.
The simplest option is natural ventilation, which does not involve the use of electricity and is a gap in the ceiling or front door.
It is through this hole in the door that air is blown into the room, thus moving the air masses.
In turn, forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is more technically complex and operates from a special fan that blows into the corresponding hole.
It is optimally suited for both a private house and a small bathroom, and can be assembled by hand.
The main types of ventilation systems
During the construction of any object, including a private house, a system is required that is responsible for ensuring the outflow of air from the internal space.
As a rule, it is a small gap in the ceiling, wall or door through which air blows.
In most cases, such ventilation in the bathroom and toilet does not cope with its tasks, so the installation of an additional forced system is required.
You can install such a system with your own hands, of course, that this is not done on the door.
It is artificial ventilation that makes it possible to ensure the flow of air in a continuous mode, as it blows when the fan is on.
It can be conditionally divided into several types:
Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages, however, for a private house or apartment, it is optimal to choose the combined one.
Such a system will make it possible, if necessary, to provide both inflow and outflow of air.
A more economical option is to make forced-type ventilation in the bathroom. Its main element is an electric fan that blows into the room. It can be placed on the ceiling or wall.
It blows only after power is applied to it.
When choosing a fan, you should pay attention to its noise level, as well as safety, since high humidity is almost constantly observed in the toilet room.
In addition, attention should be paid to its implementation.
For example, an axial or diametrical fan is perfect for a small room, and a centrifugal or centrifugal-axial fan is better to install in the country, but it is also suitable for a private house.
When choosing a ventilation system that is designed to improve the flow of fresh air, it is necessary to calculate the amount of space.
Installation of the ventilation system can be done by hand, and its installation scheme is quite simple.
Installation of ventilation in the apartment
Many, having noticed signs of fungus or mold in their toilet room, are thinking about how to make ventilation in the bathroom with their own hands.
Unlike a private house or, for example, in a country house, the installation of ventilation in a small room of an apartment does not require the installation of any special air ducts.
For these purposes, the most ordinary axial fan will suffice, which can be mounted on a stationary pipe designed to extract air.
The only condition in this case is that the mine itself should be located directly behind the partition of the toilet room, and not near the door.
In the event that a stationary ventilation duct is located in the toilet through the wall from the bathroom, it will be possible to install grilles both in the toilet itself and in the bathroom.
It should also be noted that in our time a special combined installation has been developed, which provides for the installation of gratings where there are landing slots.
Subsequently, it is quite easy to install a radial-type fan on such grilles with your own hands.
At the same time, it should be noted that it is possible to effectively ventilate the room if forced ventilation is used in conjunction with natural ventilation (that is, by opening the doors).
For example, when a fan is blowing, open the doors and thus ensure maximum airflow.
It happens that the ventilation channel is located through several rooms, so in this case, the non-contact method will not be effective.
To ensure air flow and normal air exchange in the bathroom, you will need to assemble a special ventilation duct, which should be directed to where there is a stationary duct.
For this, a special scheme is used and ventilation ducts are required, which are of two types, namely plastic and corrugated.
Each of them works on a similar principle, and the difference exists only in the material from which they are made. Everyone can collect such a channel with their own hands.
Installation of ventilation in a private house and in the country
For a private house and country house, the ventilation of some rooms plays an important role, but some difficulties may arise during its installation due to the fact that the main ventilation duct may be far enough from the bathroom.
In the event that the bathroom is small and the ventilation duct is installed in the immediate vicinity, then the ventilation system is installed in the same way as in the apartment.
For these purposes, you can use the most ordinary overhead fan, which operates very quietly and consumes a minimum of electrical energy, and also has a stylish design and will not spoil the overall interior of the room.
In the event that the volume of the room is large, and the main ventilation duct is located far enough away, then the ventilation system will have to be assembled according to a certain scheme.
In order for the ventilation in the bathroom to provide the necessary supply of fresh air, you will need a powerful fan, as well as a special ventilation duct through which air will move from the main ventilation duct to the room and vice versa.
First of all, you need to carefully consider the scheme of the ventilation system, as well as acquire some tools.
At the initial stage of work, the ventilation duct should be hermetically attached to the main channel. Next, the box is laid to the bathroom.
It should be fixed as firmly as possible, since vibration is possible during the subsequent operation of this ventilation system.
After the box has been brought to the required point, you can proceed with the installation of all the necessary equipment.
At the final stage of work, the installed fan is connected to the power supply and the operation of the entire system is checked.
When arranging the ventilation system in an apartment or a private house, in order for it to work as efficiently as possible, all outlets that allow air to pass outside the space should be carefully sealed.
This applies both to the introduction of a stationary shaft for ventilation of an apartment building, and to a hole that is punched directly into the street.
This can be done using ordinary mounting foam, otherwise strong drafts will always penetrate through the doors into the room.
If the bathroom provides for the installation of a suspended ceiling, then you must first install the ventilation system and test it in operation.
If this is not done, then difficulties may arise after the ceiling has already been sewn up.
For example, you may encounter the fact that the installed exhaust fan for some reason does not blow, which means that the system itself will not be able to provide a normal outflow and inflow of air.
Natural ventilation in the toilet, when air blows through the doors, is simply unacceptable in the private sector due to the specific smell.
In addition, access to the fan during operation should be provided. This can be done by installing a special inspection hatch under it.
The power of the fan for the bathroom should be selected based on the fact that a complete change of air in the room should be done in two hours.
Everyone can make all the necessary calculations, as well as install the ventilation system for the bathroom with their own hands.
To do this, you need to have only basic knowledge, the necessary tool and a little patience.
Properly installed ventilation will ensure the flow of fresh air into the room, which will eliminate the problem of mold and mildew on the walls and ceiling.
Do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: options and tips
An integral part of every modern apartment is the ventilation in the bathroom, which performs a number of important functions. It can be installed even in the country.
How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
In order to keep the bathroom and toilet always dry and comfortable, it is necessary to properly install ventilation. Properly installed ventilation is the absence of mold in the corners and on the ceiling, the unpleasant smell of dampness in the room and the guarantee of the health of not only your legs, but the whole body.
To carry out the installation of ventilation correctly, you need to follow certain rules, which we will discuss below.
Types of ventilation
To begin, consider what types of ventilation are in order to choose exactly the type that best suits your home.
There are the following types:
- forced ventilation. This type is used most often in apartments and houses, in a word, where it is impossible to put a window or make a window;
- natural. This type is used in private homes. It got its name due to the way the room is ventilated - through the vents and windows located in the bathroom or toilet;
- exhaust. Bad air exits through the exhaust ducts. This type is best used in cases where mechanical and natural ventilation can be combined;
- supply. The scheme of operation of this type is simple: clean air displaces exhaust air;
- mixed. This type combines several types. It is most convenient for use in a private house.
Fan selection
The heart of the ventilation system is the fan. If you choose it correctly, unpleasant odors will leave your toilet and bathroom forever. First, calculate the area of the ventilated room. The next thing you should definitely pay attention to when choosing a fan is the noise level. Choose a fan with a minimum noise level that does not exceed the range of 0 to 40 decibels. It is virtually silent to the human ear. It is best to choose a fan that runs with ball bearings because they are highly durable and long lasting.
Types of fans
Fans are divided into the following types:
- fans with two buttons - on and off;
- having the ability to be powered from a light source, i.e. when the light is turned on, the fan turns on;
- timer;
- remote controlled.
When purchasing a fan, be sure to pay attention to its performance. This is perhaps the main indicator by which you need to choose a fan. If the fan is low-power, then the air in the bathroom or in the toilet will not be directed to the exhaust duct, thereby worsening the atmosphere not only in the bathroom, but throughout the apartment.
Ventilation device in the bathroom and toilet
There are no differences between the device of the ventilation system in the bathroom and the toilet, so let's consider the general structure. The ventilation system looks like this:
Without a doubt, the system is complex, but it is impossible to do without it.
Cleaning the ventilation duct
Before installing the ventilation system, be sure to check the air permeability of the ventilation ducts. If during the inspection you find that the ventilation duct is clogged, it is pointless to install a fan until the duct has been cleaned. To do this, take a brush, with which you clean the chimney, and as far as your hand reaches, clean the channel. There is another simple way to clean, but more dangerous. Take a can of gas, spray the gas into the channel and set it on fire. So you quickly clean the channel from the cobwebs and dust that have gathered there. Just be very careful! If you live in an apartment building, and each apartment is equipped with its own ventilation duct, then you can clean it as follows. Tie a load to the rope and lower it into the channel, gently rotating the suspension.
But this option is not applicable if there is only one ventilation shaft and the rest of the risers enter it at a right angle.
Installation of ventilation in the bathroom
There are several installation methods:
- call of installation specialists;
- installation of a climate control system in absolutely the entire house or apartment;
- installation of ventilation independently.
It is on the latter method that we will dwell in more detail.
Installing a forced ventilation system
Making natural ventilation in the house is very simple, but with forced ventilation you will have to tinker a bit. But, following some simple rules, you will install the system no worse than any specialist. First you need to check the ventilation shaft. To do this, bring a lit match to the mine. If the flame burns evenly or stretches a little into the shaft, then the shaft will have to be cleaned, but if the fire almost sucks, then everything is in order with the duct and you can proceed with the installation.
If you can't install the fan directly into the duct, it's okay, you just need to buy a few meters of duct, which you can then hide in the ceiling or decorate it. There are several types of hoses:
- flexible. They are usually made of plastic and are considered the cheapest;
- semi-rigid. The cost of such hoses belongs to the middle price category. Such hoses are used if it is necessary to extend the duct by no more than 10 meters;
- tough. These hoses are the most expensive, but also the highest quality.
If you had to lengthen the duct, then you will need a vent box.
It is most convenient to install ventilation in direct connection with the switch. To do this, simply run the cable from the fan to the switch, and the ventilation will work when the light is on in the bathroom or toilet.
Installation of a duct fan will help simplify installation. This fan is installed directly into the duct and only turns on when it is really needed.
To install a ventilation system, you will need:
- fan and accessories to it;
- ventilation grille;
- adhesive sealant;
- screwdriver;
- dowel-nails;
- an additional air duct in case the fan does not reach the built-in one.
When installing the fan, observe the following rules:
- the fan should be located as far as possible under the ceiling;
- place the ventilation system on the side opposite to the air source;
- fan installation is best done in a humid area of \u200b\u200bthe bathroom;
- before mounting the fan, mark the location of the wires.
So you can hide the wires behind the tile or cable channel.
If you have a wooden house, ventilation is much better. With the help of a draft created by an open window or door and small cracks between the logs, all odors will be removed many times faster. But despite this advantage, the ventilation system needs to be installed.
Forced ventilation is suitable for both non-combined and general bathroom and toilet ventilation systems.
Sometimes a door with a ventilation grill is used as an auxiliary element for ventilation. If you don't want to spoil the design of the door, you can simply leave a larger gap between the door and the floor. So ventilation will be carried out, and the door will remain intact.
After you have installed the ventilation system, you will need to cover the pipe so that it is not visible. To do this, you can use a drywall box, which is placed directly on the fan. In this case, the holes should remain.
Check valve for ventilation
Sometimes the ventilation system does not cope with its function, and the air that should be drawn out flows back into the room or remains there. To eliminate this problem, it is enough to install a check valve. Their design is very simple, but the purpose is truly important. With the help of a non-return valve, all exhaust air is sent to the ventilation pipe. Distinguish:
- installed horizontally;
- installed vertically.
When choosing a check valve, you need to consider what kind of ventilation system you have. So, if the air duct is located vertically, then, accordingly, the air direction must be vertical, which means that we install a horizontal check valve. If the ventilation system is located horizontally, then your choice is a vertical valve. The blades of the valve must ensure the correct movement of air, so the direction of the ventilation system is inversely proportional to the type of valve.
Causes of poor ventilation system performance
If after the installation of the ventilation system there were problems in its operation, then, perhaps, mistakes were made during the installation. Poor system performance may be due to:
- improper layout of the ventilation system of the entire room or building (if it is an apartment building). Here, unfortunately, it will not work;
- errors made in the calculations during installation. It is possible that inaccuracies were made during the measurements, which subsequently caused the fan to be incorrectly positioned;
- defective fan and other parts used in the installation. If the situation has improved when replacing the fan and other components, then the marriage is to blame, if not, then it is better to call the master;
- damaged ventilation system of other apartments.
Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
How to make ventilation in the bathroom and toilet In order to always be dry and comfortable in the bathroom and toilet, it is necessary to install ventilation correctly. Proper ventilation is
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet - types and requirements
In each private residential building or apartment, ventilation is required in the bathroom and toilet. These two rooms, which have a sanitary and hygienic purpose, have a humid microclimate, burdened by sudden temperature changes and the presence of unpleasant odors.
In the absence of windows and a small area of rooms, the air inside them stagnates, leading to wear and tear of the finish, the formation of dampness, and the spread of fungus. These problems are solved by the installation of ventilation equipment, which will force the air to circulate forcibly. This article will tell you what a ventilation system is, what requirements are placed on it, and also how to make it yourself.
The need for ventilation
The bathroom and toilet in each apartment are problem areas, the microclimate of which often leads to intensive wear of the interior decoration. When taking a bath or using a shower, a large amount of hot steam saturated with moisture is generated inside the bathroom, which condenses on the surface of the ceiling, walls or furniture.
This situation leads to the formation of increased humidity inside the bathroom and toilet, which can only be eliminated by properly equipped ventilation. If the system exists and works correctly, the air flows from the room are led to the street through a channel or shaft. The ventilation device consists of the following elements:
- Ventilation channel. This is a round or square shaft that leads from the bathroom or toilet to the roof of the house. It should be flat and straight so that nothing interferes with the advancement of the air flow. Usually the channel is vertical, but it can also be made horizontal if its length does not exceed 1-2 m.
Note! The ventilation scheme in the bathroom or bathroom can be natural or forced. If no additional devices are used to remove air, the ventilation system is called natural. It should provide effective ventilation of the room due to the draft in the channel, if this does not happen, you can install fans with your own hands, increasing the draft.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet can be exhaust, supply and combined. The exhaust scheme provides for the presence of a channel that removes "exhaust" air with a high moisture content to the outside. The device of the supply system is different in that it takes in atmospheric air, which increases the pressure inside the room, displacing warm and humid steam.
The combined ventilation scheme combines the air intake from the street with the outlet ventilation duct. The standard ventilation system that apartments in typical high-rise buildings are equipped with is exhaust. It has the following varieties:
- Natural. The natural ventilation scheme works according to the law of convection, which states that heated gas tends to rise up. Its device consists of a ventilation duct, an air vent and a protective grille. Due to the difference in temperature and pressure, the heated air from the bathroom enters the shaft and goes outside, making room for fresh air. The force that propels the flow is called thrust. Sometimes there is not enough draft in the channel to ensure air circulation due to insufficient shaft height or blockage. To eliminate this defect, you can clean the channel with your own hands or install a channel fan.
Experienced craftsmen say, no matter what scheme of ventilation of the room is used, you need to monitor its condition. To check the effectiveness, you need to do a simple test: bring a lit candle to the ventilation grill, if the flame does not deviate towards the channel, then there is no draft in the system. To increase traction, you can make forced ventilation with your own hands.
Requirements
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a finely organized system, on the work of which the microclimate of these premises depends. The cause of problems in the functioning of equipment is most often errors in the design and installation of do-it-yourself. Experienced craftsmen advise to clean the ventilation duct before changing the device of the system. The following requirements are imposed on the design of ventilation in a sanitary room:
- The noise level of ventilation equipment installed in residential buildings should not exceed 30 dB. Therefore, only low-noise household fans are suitable for the bathroom.
Requirements for the bathroom ventilation system are regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. This regulation describes the maximum content of dust, carbon dioxide and the rate of air exchange. If the air in the sanitary rooms does not meet the requirements, it is necessary to clean the ventilation duct and assess whether additional equipment is required.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet
What is the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet - types, requirements for the system and equipment. Ventilation device and its use.
Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a prerequisite, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then in the bathroom rooms not only a persistent smell will remain, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to fight.
Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the evaporation will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by households, and this can lead to allergic reactions, diseases of the respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.
Basically, the issue of effective implementation is faced by the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is pre-planned in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are wired to the bathroom and kitchen. However, the information can also be useful for apartment owners - the “regular” ventilation system does not always fully cope with its duties, and certain adjustments need to be made to its work.
Types of ventilation systems
First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing ventilation systems of the premises.
Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.
- Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special instruments and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required amount of air exchange.
- Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the conditions of the apartment.
In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:
- Exhaust ventilation. In this system, air rising under the ceiling is drawn in by a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, such a scheme is used in combination with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.
For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out by means of air intake from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary facilities.
- - in this system, the fan works to supply air, and its exit for a full cycle of ventilation is carried out naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective exit of air to the outside in the required volume.
- The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises, and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for large-area houses, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly not enough.
Fan types
Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with natural air flow through the “clean” living quarters and its forced removal through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their places of installation - these are axial, channel, roof and radial.
- Axial wall (overhead) fans.
An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.
This type of appliance is fixed in the window of the ventilation duct on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.
- Duct fans.
Inline axial fans are used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is rather complicated. However, sometimes they cannot be dispensed with, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².
Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.
This type of fan can be installed in various parts of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the device is freely accessible, as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.
There are three types of air ducts in which duct fans are installed - they are flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.
Flexible channels are mounted quite easily, so they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.
- Radial fans.
The radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box, which has a characteristic spiral shape.
During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the duct.
For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower pressure ratings, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, are not as noisy as compared to fans with forward-curved blades.
Radial fans tolerate high loads well and are quite economical in operation.
- Roof fans.
As you can already understand from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of multi-apartment and private residential buildings.
The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration isolating (damper) pads, and an auto-regulation device.
The roof fan can be of axial, multi-bladed or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, as it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.
Forced ventilation systems can operate both in automatic and manual modes, have one pumping level or several speeds.
- Unregulated ventilation has only two regime positions: "on" and "off".
- A system that has several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
- Variable speed fans are the most economical in operation, in which the impeller is given a rotational speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The change in speed occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic control and management units.
Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation
It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But immediately the main question will arise about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit time.
It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for the organization of ventilation in a residential building or apartment.
It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * (“Residential buildings”).
According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system should be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but there is no natural ventilation, that is, a window or window, or normal ventilation is not enough.
In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, the following is a summary of the information that will be required to calculate ventilation.
| Room type | Ventilation rates | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air intake from outside | Exhaust air outside | ||
| Residential premises | The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person. | - | The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living |
| 3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space | - | The calculation is based on the area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises of the house | |
| Kitchen | |||
| with electric stove | - | Not less than 60 m³/hour | |
| with 2 burner gas stove | - | Not less than 60 m³/hour | |
| with 3 burner gas stove | - | Not less than 75 m³/hour | |
| with 4 burner gas stove | - | Not less than 90 m³/hour | |
| Bathroom | Inflow from the premises of the residential area | Not less than 25 m³/hour | |
| Separate restroom | Inflow from the premises of the residential area | Not less than 25 m³/hour | |
| Bathroom combined (bathroom + toilet) individual | Inflow from the premises of the residential area | Not less than 50 m³/hour | |
There are, of course, norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not of particular interest to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the values \u200b\u200bgiven above.
But why do we need to know the indicators of natural supply ventilation in the premises of a residential area? But the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced "organism". To be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen rooms are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of air drawn out cannot be less than the incoming one. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when choosing ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.
∑Qadj. = ∑Qvy.
∑Qadj.- the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.
∑Qout.- the required performance of exhaust ventilation.
Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, the penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom into living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.
Constantly misted windows are a sign of poor ventilation.
The ever-wet surface of the glass on the windows is half the trouble, only an external sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.
To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.
The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the frequency of air exchange by the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to the standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of air flow for high-quality ventilation.
Well, then, based on the value obtained, it will be possible to proceed to the distribution of volumes of forced exhaust ventilation in order to achieve the desired equality.
For example, the calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.
Do you have problems with the area calculation?
Usually the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you will have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.
For the convenience of calculations, you can make a small table:
| House premises | Air intake from outside | Outlet to the street | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Other data and calculation progress | According to sanitary standards for living people | According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of premises | According to the norms per 1 m² of usable area | Set minimum | Required in the real world |
| Number of residents | 5 people | - | - | - | - |
| Living room | - | 21 m² | 21 m² | - | - |
| Bedroom 1 | - | 16 m² | 16 m² | - | - |
| Bedroom 2 | - | 14 m² | 14 m² | - | - |
| Children's | - | 17 m² | 17 m² | - | - |
| Dining room | - | 15 m² | 15 m² | - | - |
| Kitchen (gas stove 4 burners) | - | 12 m² | - | 90 m³ / hour | 150 m³ / hour |
| Hallway | - | 5 m² | - | - | - |
| Hall | - | 9 m² | - | - | |
| Corridor | - | 3 m² | - | - | - |
| Bathroom | - | 6 m² | - | 25 m³/hour | 50 m³ / hour |
| bathroom | - | 2 m² | - | 25 m³/hour | 50 m³ / hour |
| Total area | - | 120 m² | 83 m² | - | - |
| Ceiling height | - | 3.1 m | - | - | - |
| Volume in total | - | 120 × 3.1 = 372 m³ | - | - | - |
| established norm | 30 m³/hour | 0.35 times/hour | 3 m³/1 m² | - | - |
| Calculation | 5 x 30 = 150 | 372 x 0.35 = 130.2 | 83 x 3 = 249 | 90 + 25 + 25 = 140 | 150 + 50 + 50 = 250 |
| Need for standards | 150 m³/hour | 130.2 m³/h | 140 m³/h | ||
So, out of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum - 249 m³ / h, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / h, and bring to this value the total exhaust ventilation performance in the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the bathroom.
The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation standards in this room are tougher. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air being removed to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.
The remaining 100 m³ / h can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and the toilet (if it is planned to install axial fans individual for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are combined with one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate capacity. It is obvious that such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.
So, all the conditions are fully met, and the required performance of the ventilation unit has also already been determined.
Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan
It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:
- The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.
Mechanical noise arises from the vibration of the impeller with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.
Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the inlet and outlet of air, when it moves through the air ducts, and also during the occurrence of pulsations.
Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can adversely affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.
Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).
If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then preference should be given to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. So the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will decrease significantly - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.
It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.
Another important point in reducing the noise level is the installation of a fan with straight sections provided to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is desirable to leave such sections on both sides (for an axial, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 of the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).
- Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.
Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they are built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.
The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the residential area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.
The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, on which the turn-on time, operating modes and the fan off time are set.
- Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, on the packaging of which there should be a corresponding label.
When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices in specialized stores, preferably models of well-known manufacturers, the brand of which in itself gives a certain guarantee for the products. Do not hesitate to ask for the necessary sales marks in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service maintenance.
TOP 9 best bathroom fans
| Photo | Name | Rating | Price | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The best overhead fans | ||||||
| #1 |
|
Vents VNV-1 80 KV | ⭐ 99 / 100 | |||
| #2 |
|
Cata E-120 GTH | ⭐ 98 / 100 | |||
| #3 |
|
Electrolux EAFR | ⭐ 97 / 100 1 - voice | |||
| #4 |
|
Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design | ⭐ 96 / 100 | |||
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Self-installation of ventilation
Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only increase the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.
It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system at the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work in an already finished building.
Elements of the ventilation system
If the type of ventilation system is determined, then it is necessary to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to previously taken dimensions.
- The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the case of the planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are removed, which are then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
- Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, a rectangular version is more convenient to mount to a ceiling or wall, it can ideally be located above a false or stretch ceiling. The round section provides more efficient air removal, as it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.
Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less “noisy” - Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of the air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
- Couplings are used to interface individual sections of the duct.
- A non-return damper is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, when there is strong wind outside.
- Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use homemade or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
- Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan is selected, installed between two parts of the duct. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing an overhead axial fan.
Installation of the ventilation system
The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, according to which it will be easier to work.
- If it is decided to upgrade an already installed ventilation system, it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to carefully clean the old duct from debris and deposits on the stacks.
- Before laying the ventilation duct, you must first determine the installation location of the fan. The best place to install the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural intake of air in the form of a draft.
- The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand the existing ventilation window to the desired size.
- The ventilation duct is brought out into the arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is carried out through the attic floor and roof.
- If the channel is brought outside through the outer wall, then it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole from the side of the street, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If only a protective grill is installed on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up during the operation of the heating system - all the heat will quickly leave through the ventilation through the draft.
- The ventilation pipe leading through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.
- Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which is connected to an outlet covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with a suspended ceiling and without it, since the box may well pass through the attic.
- In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated, and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with branch pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the false ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the side of the street and closed with a special casing.
- After holding and fixing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way in each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account, so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
- Before finally fixing the overhead axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed on the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.
The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent active exposure to high humidity.
Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but the connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.
If it is decided to connect the fan to the light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:
Connection in this way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where, using the terminal, the “zero” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting are connected, respectively. The “phase” is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.
By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate the situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture is unlikely to be completely drawn out by the fan, and the room remains "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be wiser to provide a time delay for such a connection, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.
By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer devices for controlling light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.
- When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to run through the attic. An electric cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be securely insulated.
- If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct together with the fan can be hidden above the false ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grille.
Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself
Checking the Installed System
After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, no tools are required - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grate of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate, and the flame of the candle leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.
If it is necessary to increase traction, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These cutouts are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.
Regular condensation on the walls and pipes of the bathroom is a sure sign of insufficient ventilation. Running cases are accompanied by black mold, which releases millions of spores. Fungi, getting into the body, have an allergenic, pathogenic, toxic effect. It is worth taking care of debugging air exchange in order to avoid negative health effects.
The apartment in a panel house of the Soviet era is equipped with exhaust ducts in the toilet, shower room, kitchen, providing natural exhaust ventilation. The supply of fresh air is provided through breathable wooden window frames, entrance doors, and to a lesser extent - walls.
Installing cheap plastic windows without a micro-ventilation function upsets the balance of air exchange. The problem is exacerbated in closed domestic rooms.
The draft in the ventilation ducts is formed due to gravitational and wind pressure. The first increases with an increase in the temperature difference between the street and the room. The wind pressure is determined by the force of the wind, the structure of the building, the height of the pipe, the shape of the head of the exhaust shaft.
Circulation efficiency drops starting from +5ºC outside, reverse draft is possible in summer, only with strong wind the situation improves.
Natural air exchange has major disadvantages:
- Performance is not regulated, only a reduction in air exchange is allowed. The calculation of the parameters is approximate.
- Stable operation depends on weather conditions. In summer, the difference between the temperature inside and outside the room is minimal, so the circulation stops. In winter, there are drafts, the building cools down.
- Inefficient functioning leads to increased humidity, excess carbon dioxide, the appearance of unpleasant odors, corrosion of plumbing. Additional ventilation due to the vents is fraught with dangerous drafts, ingress of street dust.
- Characteristics change during reconstruction: replacement of windows, doors, wall insulation, installation of corridor vestibules.
The option is technically simple, does not require operating costs and measures other than standard procedures for checking and cleaning air ducts. The existing channels will serve until the demolition of the building.
Forced ventilation contains a mechanical stimulator of air movement. The house centralized system is equipped with powerful radial or axial superchargers that supply fresh air to the premises through a network of air ducts and distribution devices. The hood is realized in a natural way or by means of suction fans.
The advantages of the solution are opposite to the disadvantages of the previous scheme:
- The expense is corrected.
- Operating indicators: differential pressure, flow rate - are maintained at a given level.
- Optimal microclimate parameters are provided: humidity, temperature. Guaranteed removal of CO2, other harmful emissions, dust.
- Ability to automate process control.
The negatives include:
- Increased cost of equipment, electricity costs.
- The need for periodic maintenance of the electromechanical part, replacement of filters.
- Noise reduction requires special technical measures: vibration damping elements, low-noise superchargers, silencers.
Informative video:
natural ventilation
Residents of old apartment buildings are not lucky: there is no separate supply system, the hood often cannot cope with condensate in the restroom, bathroom. In the "Khrushchev" and panel high-rise buildings of the 70s - 80s, each apartment has individual ventilation ducts in the constructs. Accelerating air ducts of brick, monolithic skyscrapers are connected to the shaft that goes to the roof. In all cases, independent alterations are impossible.
Unauthorized change in the design of general ventilation is dangerous and prohibited! Modernization of the system is carried out by specialized organizations according to approved housing reconstruction projects.
What measures can the owner take on the way to freshness? Start with a simple but extremely important:
Periodically on their own check traction. The album sheet should stick to the grate of the air duct, and the flame of the match should deflect towards the hole.
Contact the Housing Authority with a negative result of a personal check. The structure acts as a customer for inspections, cleaning, repair of chimneys, ventilation ducts by licensed contractors. Specialists measure the flow rate at the hood with an anemometer, check the vertical channels for patency with a steel ball of a specified diameter. The compliance of the examined elements with the project, the current standards is determined, according to the results they draw up an act with a conclusion on admission to operation.
Instrumental control with a digital anemometer. Analyze the organization of the air exchange of the restroom, plan activities for intensification. SNiP 31-01-2003 establishes the amount of air removed (L) from the toilet and bathroom - 25 m³ / h, with a combined bathroom, the norm is identical (doubled according to the canceled SNiP 2.08.01-89 *). The removed volume is compensated by the flow through the gaps between the door and the threshold, the canvas and the frame. Modern doors are tightly fitted along the contour, so you need a hole at the bottom of the leaf, equipped with a grill or valve.
Pick up install door grille, or leave a gap under the door during installation: 1-1.5 cm.
They produce built-in rectangular, round grilles with V-shaped lamellas that guide the flow. Regulated modifications are appropriate for forced circuits.
For selection, the area of the free section of the supply opening (F, m²) is calculated based on the allowable flow velocity (υ, m / s).
F = L/(3600υ) (1)
Where L \u003d 25 m³ / h - shower air exchange (see table. 9.1);
υ \u003d 0.5 m / s - according to the standard.
Having given one size of a rectangular lattice (a), the second one (b) is determined:
For round models, the diameter (d) is found:
Where n is the number of built-in gratings.
Example
Find the dimensions of the supply rectangular grille of a standard bathroom door.
- We calculate the area of the living section: F \u003d 25 / (3600 × 0.5) \u003d 0.014 m².
- We accept the height a = 80 mm (0.08 m).
- We find the width: b \u003d 0.014 / 0.08 \u003d 0.175 m (175 mm).
Suitable models: "VENTS" MV 440/2, "ROVEN" RP 150×300.
Improve general ventilation of the apartment. The air permeability of PVC window blocks with double-glazed windows is no more than 3.5 m³ / h per square meter (GOST 30674-99). The minimum outdoor air consumption per person according to SNiP 41-01-2003 is not provided, therefore, the requirements for the supply ventilation of the bathroom are not met. The situation is corrected by the choice of windows with micro-ventilation, the installation of wall valves that increase the flow into the apartment.
Extra steps in your home
It is easier for the owner of a private cottage to achieve stable operation of the system. It is necessary to correctly calculate the sections of air duct sections according to formulas (1), (2), the flow rate is taken:
- 0.5 - 1.0 m / s - exhaust louvered grilles;
- 1.0 - 1.5 m / s - horizontal, vertical sections of pipes;
- 1.5 - 2.0 m / s - ventilation shafts.
Pressure losses due to local resistances, suction, wall contamination are taken into account, taking into account the area margin (up to 30%). Minimize the length of the route, the number of turns, narrowings. The length, total resistance of individual branches should be as close as possible.
Intensify circulation:
- Connect the restroom-bathroom unit to an independent ventilation outlet.
- Equip outlets with deflectors. Good results are shown by TsAGI, DS, ASTATO models.
DIY manufacturing:
Increase reliability:
Mounting a check valve on an individual channel:
Forced
The organization of artificial induction of air movement involves the installation of a fan on the exhaust duct. By the value of the minimum air exchange of the room in the operating mode (L), the fan capacity Lvent, m³ / h is calculated.
Lvent = nL (4)
Where n is the safety factor.
The required size is selected with a two - threefold margin: n = 2 - 3. Thus, for a typical bathroom with a volume of 10 - 12 m³, L = 25 m³ / h, a fan with a capacity of 50 - 75 m³ / h is sufficient. If mechanical extraction is performed simultaneously from the toilet and shower room, then the necessary air exchange and productivity are doubled.
A number of sites suggest performing the calculation by the air exchange rate (k), using the value k = 10. The current SNiP 31-01-2003 contains an indication of the air exchange rate only for the non-working mode: k = 0.5.
Due to an erroneous reading of Appendix 4 of the canceled SNiP 2.08.01-89 *, the air exchange value of 25 m³ / h per square meter is used for calculations, although the reference to the area is set only for living rooms (3 m³ / h per m²). The result is inflated costs. They also try to pass the entire volume of air in the apartment through the shower hood, which is not true.
The cross-sectional areas of the air ducts F, m² are found by the formula (1). Accept speeds (υ) of the flow:
- 1 - 2 m / s - exhaust openings, horizontal channels;
- 2 - 6 m / s - mine;
- 2 - 4 m / s - supply air intake.
The choice of blower type determines the performance and installation location:
Two-speed versions allow you to set a rational mode. The degree of protection of the models used is at least IP 44. During maintenance, the blades and the housing are cleaned of settled dust, the bearings are lubricated, if the speed drops, the noise increases.
As a rule, the fan turns on sporadically. Known basic connection schemes:
Practical Tips:
The round shell of the overhead supercharger is fixed in the channel opening with mounting foam. The channel modification is fixed by means of independent suspensions to avoid pressure on the flexible inserts.
Leave straight sections in front of the suction and pressure pipes of at least 1 m. The air intake ducts are connected to the tees, equipped with anemostats. The diameter of the far air intake, taking into account the resistance, must be larger than the one closest to the ventilation unit.
Channel modification on the common air duct of the restroom, bathroom. Cheap, lightweight PVC ducts are used for the intra-apartment network. In cold attics, 0.5 mm thick galvanized pipes are used, the most durable are stainless products. Short lines from the main to the ceiling distributors of false ceilings are laid with flexible flame-retardant pipes.
PVC assemblies Flexible components Channel formed from plastic parts
A comfortable atmosphere is determined by the direction of circulation. Habitual for a natural system distribution "bottom-up". Forced air exchange is also organized "top-up", supplying clean air from the ceiling distributor: anemostat or diffuser.
Stagnant zones with different air distribution. 
A reliable source of clean air is a compact supply unit, connected by an air duct to the bathroom. The stretch ceiling will successfully hide the corrugated pipe.
Supply installation on the balcony. 
Fixing the ceiling supply distributor. The ventilation in the bathroom is dependent on the general house, so before renovation, evaluate the health of the system as a whole. Take measures to improve the circulation inside the apartment, an integrated approach will increase the return on upgrading the local part.
Examples of complex modernization of ventilation. Advice! If you need a bathroom remodeler, there is a very convenient service for the selection of specialists from. Just fill in the details of the order, the masters themselves will respond and you can choose with whom to cooperate. Each specialist in the system has a rating, reviews and examples of work that will help with the choice. Looks like a mini tender. Submitting an application is FREE and there is no obligation. Works in almost all cities of Russia.
If you are a master, then go to, register in the system and be able to take orders.
