Soil for anthurium: we compose it ourselves or buy ready-made. Primer for indoor plants Primer for flowers universal description
Land for indoor flowers needs a special one so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home growing plants.
Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:
But back to "our sheep" - what kind of soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I’ll tell you which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.
For planting indoor plants need a special composition. You can cook them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.
It is worth talking about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates), usually used for growing home flowers, in more detail.
Why ready-made soil mixes are not suitable for indoor plants
Ready-made substrates that go on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with the soil. They consist mainly of red (high-moor) or black (low-lying) peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.
What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."
Have you ever read it?
Most of the failures in growing indoor flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.
There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. No need to look for different types of soil, no need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, occupying the space necessary for life. Compositions based on peat are light, absorb water well. On sale you can find such a hodgepodge for all types of plants. And this would be the solution to the problem for most fans, if not for one but ...
But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat assorted should be kept constantly wet - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the earth to dry out between waterings. And some of them do not tolerate excess moisture at all.
That is why a flower in such a soil substrate is easy to fill.
In peat formulations, fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earthen ones, but it is easily washed out during irrigation. Therefore, a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!
Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.
The exception is compositions with the addition of biohumus. Humus (chernozem) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.
We conclude:
Land for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands.
Don't be scared, it's not difficult at all.
A little background on the different types of soil will help you figure it out.
Characteristics of garden land
It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.
Deciduous (leafy)
This is a light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual decay of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. It is easiest to find leafy soil in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.
humus
Obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village, finding humus soil is quite easy. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.
It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.
The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.
We prepare the ground for indoor flowers at home
Recipe one:
Such a mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.
Recipe two:
This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.
Recipe three:
This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine delicate roots and all herbaceous species.
Recipe Four - universal soil for indoor plants:
Useful if you could not find soddy and humus soil.
In the literature for flower growers there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.
But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by looking for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all your green pets.
So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants
To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the ground for indoor flowers must be prepared by hand according to one of the above recipes.
Soil for indoor flowers can be purchased at the store, but many flower growers prefer to prepare the soil mixture for their green pets on their own.
The fact is that universal ready-made soils are not suitable for all plants, which should be taken into account. If indoor plants such as geranium and chlorophytum can grow in the same soil mixture, then special soil is needed for anthurium. Although in modern times in the store you can buy soil for any type of plant.
The composition of ready-made flower soils
The composition of universal soils includes peat, which has bactericidal properties, contains amino acids and humic acids necessary for the growth and normal development of plants. Peat is light (upper layers, slightly decomposed, well absorbing moisture) and heavy (lower layers, with a high humus content). Ready peat land consists of peat and lime.
sod land consists of sod, quicklime, cow dung, superphosphate. To obtain it, the top layer of soil is removed (from meadows, pastures), the layers are placed in a pile, sprinkled with manure and left to rot for a year.
leaf ground consists of fallen and decayed (from 2-3 years old) leaves. However, willow and oak leaves contain tannins, so the soil based on such leaves is not suitable for growing indoor plants.
humus soil obtained from greenhouse manure that has already been used to grow plants. This soil is very nutritious.
compost soil obtained from decayed plant and food residues, which are mixed with garden soil.
coniferous land consists of decayed needles of coniferous trees, for example, pine, spruce, larch. Such land is part of the soil mixture for growing azaleas, camellias and other plants that prefer to grow in acidic soil.
Other components that are used to make the soil mixture include river sand, clay, fern roots, sphagnum moss, crushed tree bark, charcoal. These components are used to improve the composition of the soil, to loosen and prevent acidification of the soil. For example, sphagnum moss and charcoal have aseptic properties.
Small expanded clay gravel, perlite, marble screenings, hydrogel, ceramis act as fillers. Fillers help to loosen the soil, as well as retain moisture.
Classification of finished soils
- Easy- consists of leaf and sod land, crushed polystyrene foam, greenhouse soil, sand. This substrate is suitable for growing plants with a small root system, such as cyclamen, begonias.
- Average- consists of leaf and sod land, humus. Suitable for growing ficuses, citrus fruits.
- Heavy- consists of soddy land, humus, coarse sand. Suitable for growing palm trees, clivia, dracaena, krinum.
Based on high-moor peat (decayed sphagnum moss that grows on raised bogs) - contains a minimum amount of minerals, is breathable, has good water absorption and moisture retention. This substrate is often used as a temporary soil for the transport of plants, as well as for the sale of potted plants.
Based on low-lying peat (extracted from low-lying swamps, lakes and rivers) - it is distinguished by the presence of a large amount of minerals, retains moisture well. However, it quickly cakes, dries out for a long time, as a result, the roots of plants often rot. Soil based on lowland peat is used as a component of the soil mixture prepared independently, but not as an independent substrate.
Based on biohumus (a product of manure processing by earthworms) - rich in organic matter and living organisms. Such soil is used as a component of the soil mixture for its enrichment. Biohumus is an alternative to humus.
Special primer for indoor flowers
- For orchids- a mixture of peat, charcoal, crushed pine bark, sphagnum moss. For epiphytes, not soil is used, but pieces of pine bark or driftwood wrapped in sphagnum moss.
- For azaleas- high-moor peat, needles, sand. The soil is moderately acidic and loose, with a low content of nutrients.
- For palm trees- a soil mixture of high-moor peat, leaf and sod land, sand. The soil is nutritious, with a neutral reaction.
- For cacti- sand, leafy soil or high-moor peat, depending on the group of cacti (there are forest and desert ones).
- For violets- high-moor peat, sand, coniferous earth, charcoal, sphagnum moss.
- For ferns- peat, sand, humus.
But do not think that ready-made mixtures for the plants mentioned above are ideal. There are many species of the same genus that grow in nature in different conditions. Therefore, when purchasing ready-made soil, it must be supplemented with the components necessary for a particular type of plant.
Some specialized soils are suitable for growing other types of plants. Typically, this information is indicated on the packaging.
What to look for when choosing a finished soil
Priming:
- must pass air;
- must be nutritious;
- should not retain moisture for a long time;
- should not contain pests and pathogens;
- soil acidity should correspond to the level that a particular type of plant needs.
Soils with high levels of acidity are ideal. Neutral soils are good for growing, while rocky and sandy soils are suitable. A special soil mixture is necessary for the noble ones. It consists of charcoal, moss, tree bark and fern roots.
Each type of soil has its own basis. For example, chernozem lands belong to neutral soils, peat lands belong to acidic soils, and clay-soddy soils belong to alkaline soils. The permeability of water and air to the roots of plants, and hence their development, and life in general, depends on the composition and density of the soil. With the timely provision and saturation of the soil with the necessary fertilizers, it also provides plants with quality nutrition.
The composition of soil mixtures may include natural components (for example, peat, sand, ash, humus, sawdust, needles, leaves, moss, etc.) and artificial (for example, expanded clay, perlite, hydrogel). For each type of plant, it is necessary to select its optimal soil composition.
Trading networks offer a large number of different types of soil mixtures, which differ in the level of acidity, the presence of fertilizers and various baking powder.
Peat soils
Peat soils can be of two types: some consist of high-moor peat, while others consist of lowland peat.
Moss that grows in the upper reaches of the swamps, in the process of decomposition, turns into high-moor peat. This type of peat soil has its positive and negative properties. Positive are good breathability and lightness, as well as the ability to absorb moisture and retain it. The latter property is also a disadvantage, since prolonged retention of moisture in the soil can lead to rotting of the root of the plant. And if such a soil is too dry, then it will be quite difficult to wet and moisten it again. Another disadvantage is the low fertile qualities and the minimum amount of minerals in the composition of the soil.
Peat, which is extracted from the swampy lowlands of lakes, rivers and the swamps themselves, is heavier, but the content of mineral elements in it is very high. This type of soil is used only as an additive in soil mixtures, since in its pure form it is always too wet and dense. In such soil, the roots of plants do not develop, but rot due to an excess of moisture and a lack of air.
Biohumus
Biohumus is a product obtained in the process of processing manure with the help of earthworms. Such soil is considered valuable for plants, because it contains a large number of effective microorganisms and useful natural substances. When compiling a soil mixture at home, a small part of biohumus can replace humus and enrich its composition.
Trading networks offer soil mixtures in a large assortment. For almost every plant, you can choose an individual substrate, but you can make it yourself. The main thing is to have all the necessary components at hand.
leaf ground
When growing indoor plants, a mixture of leafy and soddy soil is used as the main soil. It contains the rotted leaf part of many tree species (for example, apple and walnut, linden and maple, pear and elm).
sod land
This type of soil is used most often, as it has good water and air permeability, and also contains a huge amount of nutrients. You can find such soil in meadows, forests, or unused pastures for animals.
Humus
Such soil consists of a small amount of topsoil and rotted manure. This earth is light and friable, and also contains a large amount of nutrients. Many cultures are able to qualitatively develop and grow on humus soil.
heather soil
Such soil is considered rare, since it can only be obtained in places where coniferous trees and evergreen heather shrubs grow. Dark gray moorland mixed with white sand has a loose structure, good air and water permeability. In terms of composition, it can be compared with a mixture of sand (one part), leafy (two parts) and peat (four parts) soil. Heather soil is the most favorable for growing rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.
coniferous soil
This soil is often included in soil mixtures and is intended for many plants (for example, heather and orchids). Such soil is mined in coniferous forests. The needles of spruce, pine and fir, when decomposed, turn into loose and acidic soil. When collecting coniferous land, it is necessary to remove the top layer - it is still unsuitable for compiling soil mixtures and growing plants. You only need to use the second bottom layer.
fern roots
Crushed and dried fern roots are a valuable nutrient component in the preparation of soil mixtures.
Moss
Some of the old parts of the sphagnum marsh plant die off, fall off, and eventually form high-moor peat. Harvesting of sphagnum is carried out in September - October. First, it is cleared of large branches and other unnecessary components. Then crushed, thoroughly dried and steamed. Such preparation is necessary for the disinfection of the soil. Harmful insects die, which means that there will be no danger to the growth and development of plants in the future. After the preventive measures taken, the moss is ready for use.
Moss is part of many potting mixes and makes them loose and able to retain the required moisture for a while.
river sand
Flower shops offer various types of sand (coarse, medium and fine), but you can also collect it on the river bank. Sand must be prepared before use. First, it is desirable to sift it, get rid of various debris and large stones and clean it well from dirt with clean water.
Almost all soil mixtures contain sand, as it makes the soil breathable, prevents it from compacting and caking, and perfectly passes water, although it does not contain any nutrients.
Soil mixtures with such a sand additive are necessary for growing almost all types of palm trees and cacti.
Charcoal or Ash
Coal and ash are used to disinfect the roots of plants, as well as to heal cuts on branches and stems. This component prevents the formation of rot, as it is a natural antiseptic. The most commonly used charcoal is left after burning aspen or birch branches.
Almost every soil mixture contains at least 5% crushed charcoal. Coal increases the water permeability of the soil and its friability. Charcoal blends are essential for growing cacti, orchids and many other indoor plants.
When harvesting components for the soil mixture, you have to collect the earth in different places: in the forest, in the meadow, in the field and on the river bank. Naturally, in the composition of such land there is a large number of various insects and their larvae, fungal spores, which can cause fungal diseases. In order to avoid problems in the future when growing plants, it is necessary to prepare such soil before use. It is recommended to carry out mandatory heat treatment in the form of steaming.
Choose a large container, pour a small layer of well-moistened sand (about 3-4 centimeters) on the bottom, and all the components of the future soil mixture on top. Place the container on a small fire for heating and steaming. Wet sand, when heated, will release steam, which will gradually warm the rest of the mixture. It will take about one hour to warm up a ten-liter container.
There is one significant drawback in such processing - this is the absolute death of beneficial microorganisms that are vital for the growth and development of plants. Not a single organic top dressing is able to be absorbed by plants without them. It will take some time and patience to fix this problem. When at least 30 days have passed after planting the indoor flower, you can start settling the soil with new useful "residents".
Saturation of the soil with important microorganisms should be carried out gradually and try to maintain their number. Live microorganisms are contained in many special preparations and organic supplements. Specialized stores for gardeners and florists offer to use the Ecostyle, Baikal, Vostok EM-1 and Vozrozhdenie tools for these purposes.
As a soil disinfecting procedure, you can try freezing or treating with chemicals. Chemicals will destroy all harmful bacteria and fungal spores and get rid of infectious diseases. And after freezing the soil, its structure even improves.
Soil acidity
The degree of soil acidity plays an important role in the development of plants. Growth, abundance of flowering culture, its adaptability to life and the ability to resist pests and diseases depend on its level.
For some representatives of the flora, the soil needs poor and acidic soil, for others it is fertile and saturated with a large number of effective microorganisms, with moderate or neutral acidity. For example, alkaline soil is necessary for plants growing on rocky mountain slopes, and slightly acidic soil is suitable for most plants.
Soil pH can be determined in two ways:
- Using special litmus paper
- With a soil meter
When buying ready-made substrates, acidity is determined by the digital indicators on the package:
- pH over 8 - strongly alkaline
- pH 7 to 8 - alkaline
- pH 6 to 7 - neutral
- pH 5 to 6 - slightly acidic
- pH 4 to 5 - acidic
- pH 3 to 4 - strongly acidic
A soil acidity meter will show more accurate data on the selected substrate, and litmus paper will show the result using a color indicator. A special color scale is offered. It is necessary to place a litmus paper on the surface of a well-moistened soil and press hard for a few seconds, and then compare the result with the proposed scale. In the presence of slightly alkaline soil, the paper will turn blue, in neutral soil it will turn light green or blue, in slightly acidic soil it will turn yellow, in acidic soil it will turn pink, and in strongly acidic soil it will turn red.
How to prepare the right substrate for plants
We tell you in what soil it is better to grow indoor plants and seedlings. We help you choose the best soil for home flowers and additional components for it.
Author's word
Previously, for indoor flower growers, the question of choosing a substrate for growing flowers at home was simple. They took garden land, either the one where the mole dug up or under the firs, pines in public gardens and city parks.
Now this is the fate of mainly people of the "old school", avid amateurs, conscious people or progressive youth.
Now many flower growers, especially those living in large cities, most often use purchased soil for planting, transplanting plants and growing seedlings. Therefore, it will be given more attention in the article.
A separate place in the preparation of the soil mixture is occupied by additional components that are used to increase friability, fertility or change in acidity. They will be the subject of a separate chapter.
At the end of the article, I will consider the advantages of each of the options and tell you what I chose for myself.
Do-it-yourself soil or how it was before?
As I said at the very beginning, most indoor flowers can be grown in cultivated and prepared garden soil or where a mole dug up.
In urban conditions, it is good to collect soil under the Christmas trees in the park (coniferous land), where it is lighter and more nutritious. But this earth is slightly acidic and not suitable for all plants (you can add a little wood ash or coal). But azaleas, begonias, gloxinia, hydrangeas are great.
Previously, it was possible to buy turf and leafy soil in stores. It was these species and others, less popular, that were described to us by teachers at the institute in lectures.
- It is advisable to disinfect any earth dug up in natural conditions so that later some bugs do not crawl in the flowers or midges fly.
How to disinfect the earth?
The main methods of soil disinfection: warming up (calcining), steaming, freezing and treatment with fungicides and insecticides.
Warming up
The most effective and affordable way to disinfect the soil. There are several options for disinfection, I will tell you how I do it myself. Especially often you have to deal with this in the fall or spring before sowing seeds for seedlings and subsequent picking into cups.
- I lay foil on a baking sheet (an iron sheet for the oven) and pour a 2-3 cm layer of garden soil on top.
- Then I put the baking sheet in the oven for calcination for about 20-30 minutes with maximum fire. The bottom layer of soil still remains a darker color (wet).
- I pour the disinfected earth into a bucket or basin. It can be used after complete cooling.
Instead of foil, you can pour a 1 cm layer of sand, just immediately you get a looser soil mixture.
Some flower growers like to disinfect the soil on the stove (hob). At the bottom of a metal pan (stainless steel, aluminum), 2-3 cm of sand are poured, and on top of 7-12 cm of earth, depending on its size. A 3-4 liter pot is calcined for 20-30 minutes, and a 10 liter pot is already about an hour.
Advice from the magazine "Feast of Flowers": "It is desirable to sterilize not only the earth, but also coconut fiber and tree bark.
Disadvantages of sterilization
During soil disinfection, not only pathogenic microflora, but also beneficial microorganisms die. The earth becomes sterile and dead, which negatively affects the plants.
Therefore, 3-4 weeks after transplantation, when the root system has recovered from mechanical damage, it is advisable to enrich the soil with the help of special preparations (Renaissance, Baikal, Vostok EM-1, etc.) or biohumus (biohumus).
Also, the disadvantages of sterilization by heating can include the unpleasant smell of hot calcined earth. But for the sake of a good cause, it can be tolerated.
To be honest, I personally do not always sterilize outdoor soil and do not always enrich it after disinfection. But I do not encourage you to do so.
Ready soil for indoor plants
Now it is difficult to find a grower who would never buy a ready-made soil mixture in a store in his life. To be honest, no matter how hard I try to be true to the traditions of my mother and grandmother, I myself buy it in case of force majeure.
In general, I am not satisfied with the quality of the components and the composition of the soil, and often the price and inconvenience of delivery, in addition to caring for the environment. The fact is that now 99% of the substrates have a similar structure.
The base is peat (75-85% of the total volume) + mineral fertilizers + deoxidizing components (chalk, lime, limestone or dolomite flour) + structuring components (sand) and for moisture retention (vermiculite or perlite) + wetting agent (to maintain high substrate moisture).
General scheme of the factory soil
Accordingly, such soil has the same advantages and disadvantages as peat, which does not always suit me.
In general, such a substrate is convenient and beneficial for manufacturers, because peat is light in weight (lower shipping costs), it is easier to obtain than the same soddy or leafy soil (lower cost).
A small amount of nutrients and their rapid depletion is compensated by the inclusion of complex mineral fertilizers in the composition and subsequent more frequent feeding. It also benefits fertilizer producers.
Since peat dries quickly, vermiculite or agroperlite is most often added to the soil for transplantation to retain moisture so that flower growers can not water the plants so often.
Firms and brands, who is better?
Now on sale you can find the products of a large number of companies and many types of soil for each of them.
It is almost impossible to honestly assess the quality of the soil and rank brands, since there are no objective criteria or indicators. In addition, not every brand has its own production.
Many people buy the substrate (raw material) from the manufacturer and simply pack it in a package with their own brand name.
- Therefore, hand on heart, I cannot single out leaders among similar firms. After all, today it buys raw materials from some, and a year later from others, and then from others.
It is also not entirely fair to single out manufacturers separately. After all, they themselves sell substrates to other companies and earn money from it.
The rule the more expensive the better, in my opinion, does not work here. The same soil mixtures from foreign companies are 3-5 times more expensive than Russian counterparts, but the quality, if higher, is not the same 3-5 times.
Reviews of flower growers are often subjective, and they cannot be fully trusted. So you just have to try it yourself, form your own opinion and compare with other options.
Therefore, I will simply list the most popular manufacturers with their trademarks in alphabetical order and their official websites.
- "Hera", as well as brands, "Biogrunt Ecoflora", "Good Land", "KeVa Bioterra" (_http://www.sad-ogorod.ru)
- "Botanist's Dream", "Agronomist to Yourself", "Queen of Flowers" (_http://www.agrosnabretail.ru)
- "Seliger-agro", series "Good", "Exo", "Miracle-bed", "My choice" from the holding "Seliger" (_http://seliger-agro.ru)
- "Flower Paradise" from the company "Buysky Fertilizers" (Buysky Chemical Plant, catalog on the company's website: _https://bhzshop.ru)
- "Bona Forte" (_https://www.bona-forte.ru)
- Compo (_https://www.compo.de)
- Farmland, Greenworld. Produced in Estonia, German company - _ asbgreenworld.com
- "Geolia" (trademark "Leroy Merlin", manufactured at the Buisky chemical plant)
- "Morris Green" and the brand "Good Helper" (_http://www.morris-green.ru)
- "Peter Peat" (_https://www.peterpeat.ru)
- "Pokon" (_https://www.pokon.ru)
- Veltorf and the Prosto brand (_http://veltorf.com)
Soil types
Many companies produce potting mixes for specific plant families or purposes. Such soils have optimal acidity and a balanced composition.
However, this is according to the assurances of the manufacturers, but what do we actually get behind the beautiful inscriptions?
In my opinion, most of the specialized primers do not differ significantly from the standard “universal” in any way.
In general, the "universal primer" in 99% of cases copes with its task no worse than the specialized one, even without its refinement.
The inscriptions on the packaging are more an idea of marketers to increase sales than a real concern for flower growers.
At the same time, such assistance often turns into an extra waste of money and the accumulation of several bags of soil mixtures at home instead of one or two.
Of course, this is not about such soil as “for orchids”, which need a substrate that has nothing to do with garden soil.
However, let's take a look together at the performance of popular types of soil and some options from them from various manufacturers, and after that we will draw conclusions. For convenience, I have made such a table.
|
Type of soil or for ... |
Acidity (pH) |
Nitrogen / phosphorus / potassium, mg/l |
| Universal | 5,5-7,0 | Agricola - 200 / 100 / 300Ecoflora - 350 / 350 / 350Geolia - 135 / 180 / 270Geolia Premium - 180 / 225 / 270 Peter Peat - 170 / 160 / 270 Veltorf - 250 / 250 / 300 |
| Floral (for indoor flowers) | 5,5-6,5 | Flower Paradise - 150 / 100 / 200Ecoflora - 230 / 300 / 350Geolia - 135 / 180 / 315Morris Green - 100 / 90 / 150 Peter Peat - 175 / 180 / 300 Veltorf - 180 / 220 / 250 |
| decorative leafy | 5,8-6,25,5-6,55,5-7,0 | Ecoflora - 300 / 400 / 300Farmland - 150 / 120 / 180Geolia - 180 / 180 / 225Veltorf - 210 / 350 / 400 |
| vegetables | 5,5-7,0 | Ecoflora - 300 / 350 / 350Morris Green - 130 / 130 / 180Peter Peat - 150 / 170 / 180Veltorf - 175 / 175 / 200 |
| Tomatoes and peppers | 5,3-6,35,5-7,0 | Flower Paradise - 200 / 100 / 350Keva Bioterra - 300 / 350 / 350Veltorf - 250 / 250 / 350 |
| seedlings | 5,5-6,5 | Geolia Premium - 200 / 250 / 180Morris Green - 170 / 150 / 230Peter Peat - 135 / 140 / 230Veltorf - 220 / 200 / 250 |
| Azaleas (heather, hydrangeas) | 3,5-54,5-5,54,5-5,5 | Flower Paradise - 75 / 75 / 125Morris Green - 75 / 70 / 110Veltorf - 100 / 250 / 300 |
| Cacti and succulents (bonsai) | 5,5-6,55,5-7,0 | Flower Paradise - 200 / 200 / 300Ecoflora - 150 / 200 / 250Farmland - 100 / 100 / 100Veltorf - 90 / 150 / 200 |
| citrus fruits | 5,5-6,55,5-7,0 | Flower Paradise - 175 / 250 / 350Ecoflora - 300 / 400 / 350Morris Green - 150 / 150 / 200 |
| Palms, ficuses, yuccas, dracaena | 5,5-6,55,5-7,0 | Flower Paradise - 150 / 200 / 300Ecoflora - 325 / 325 / 325Veltorf - 200 / 250 / 300 |
| Roses and begonias, chrysanthemums | 6,0-6,8 | Botanist's Dream - 210 / 265 / 300Ecoflora - 200 / 350 / 370Veltorf - 220 / 250 / 300 |
| Violets and primroses | 5,5-7,0 | Flower Paradise - 150 / 150 / 250Ecoflora - 200 / 250 / 230Veltorf - 150 / 160 / 250 |
Conclusions and advice
- It is only advisable to buy some kind of substrate for indoor plants instead of universal soil for orchids. To a lesser extent for cacti and succulents, and then if you have several of them, and there are no more flowers. An article about caring for cacti.
- You should not buy separately the soil "for seedlings" and separately "for tomatoes and peppers" or "vegetables". Ordinary universal soil gives similar results and you can’t do without proper top dressing in any case.
- When buying a universal soil, pay attention to the composition, mineral content (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus) and price. Not always the cheapest substrate is the worst or the most profitable, and the more expensive substrate will be worse or better.
- Do not overpay for the inclusion of any "super" component with miraculous properties in the composition of the substrate.
Attention! The magazine "Feast of Flowers" does not cooperate with manufacturers of soil mixtures. All information is taken from public sources.
Additional components for the soil
Here I will briefly describe the popular components of the soil mix. Including peat itself, as well as substances for retaining moisture and structuring materials (baking powder).
These substances are part of the factory soil and on the basis of any land (garden, "mole", etc.). You can also buy them separately in the store and use them for self-preparation of an earthen mixture.
Vermiculite
Mineral in the form of lamellar crystals. It is used to increase the air permeability of the soil mixture and water retention. Absorbs moisture 4-5 times its own weight.
Compared to perlite, it cakes less and does not form voids in the ground, does not damage the roots due to its low abrasiveness. The share in the soil mixture is usually 3-5%.
Hydrogel
A polymeric substance that can absorb and retain a large amount of water (100-400 times its own weight), and then slowly release it into the soil and plants.
The consumption rate for indoor plants is 0.4-0.8 g per liter of substrate and only when wet.
Charcoal
Natural fertilizer. It is used to increase the friability and air permeability of the soil. It has an antibacterial effect and prevents root rot.
In crushed form (powder) is used for powdering cuts of cuttings, stems after pruning and roots during transplantation.
Reduces soil acidity. The share in the soil mixture is usually 3-7%.
Sand
Clean river sand makes heavy soil looser and lighter. An essential component of the soil mixture for many types of plants. The share in the soil mixture is usually 5-15%, but can reach 50%.
Perlite
Rock of volcanic origin. Used to loosen and retain moisture in the soil. Capable of absorbing moisture up to four times its own weight.
Able to replace river sand and fine expanded clay. Due to the capillary distribution of moisture, it gives water to the plant more easily and dries faster between waterings than vermiculite.
Agroperlite (expanded perlite) - crushed (1-5 mm) and heat-treated perlite. It has exactly the same properties. In a simple way, it is small perlite. The share in the soil mixture is usually 3-5%.
pine bark
It can be used as a mulch and as a component of the soil mixture for anthurium, bromeliads, orchids, epiphytic plants and some types of ferns. The pH level is 4-4.5.
Peat
These are not completely decomposed plant remains. In horticulture, it is used to improve soil structure. In indoor floriculture, acidic high-moor peat (pH - 2.5-3.5) or neutralized high-moor peat (pH - 5.5-6.5) is more often used.
Since nitrogen from lowland peat (pH - 5.5-6.5) slowly turns into an accessible form for plants and is more suitable for open ground. You can also mix high and low peat to get the benefits of each.
Adviсe
- My advice is not to use too many different structuring materials or to retain moisture in one potting mix.
For example, vermiculite, hydrogel, agroperlite, charcoal and river sand. They all have the right qualities, but more does not mean better and there will be no benefit from using them together. - The total proportion of baking powder is usually around 10-15%, but can be higher, depending on the type of soil and the needs of the plant.
"Feast of Flowers" recalls that the ratio of components in the soil mixture is determined, as a rule, by volume, and not by weight. Because sand is heavy and peat is light.
Do we do it ourselves or buy the substrate?
In this section, I will compare the pros and cons of making your own potting mix from outdoor soil versus buying a peat-based factory potting mix, and summarize.
|
Advantages |
Flaws |
|
| Street land (garden, mole, from under spruce) | Shareware organic (especially important for those who do not use mineral fertilizers and want to consume organic vegetables) Less need to water and feed |
Need for sterilization |
| Factory soil based on peat | Simplicity (no need to look for where to dig land) Year-round availability lower weight |
The extraction of peat and the production of mineral fertilizers harm nature Earlier and more frequent feeding due to rapid nutrient depletion Peat is hard to saturate with moisture after a strong drying Poor stability of pots with large plants Not suitable for growing organic vegetables (not recommended even for seedlings) |
What do you choose?
I believe that the issue of choosing a substrate must be approached carefully and one cannot categorically state the use of only garden soil or factory soil.
Everyone decides for himself what is more important for him: to spend time and energy, but to preserve nature for himself and future generations, or to buy soil and feel supposedly modern and successful?
Only what has become fashionable for us over the past 5-10 years is now being rethought in a progressive society and a conscious struggle is being waged against overconsumption.
Refusal to use plastic, transition to alternative energy sources, including the Zero Waste / zero waste movement, etc.
Personally, I decided for myself this: buy soil only in case of force majeure. In autumn, I prepare the land for spring transplants and planting seedlings. I put a bag of soil on the balcony and wait for the new garden season.
If you only have flowers at home, then it will be enough for you to go once a day off to the nearest square and combine business with pleasure. Take a walk, take a break from the hustle and bustle, admire the colors of autumn, enjoy the last rays of the sun and save our planet.
Just by typing a package of land. Young children can be involved in this process, for them it will be just a game with a spatula.
Flower Festival wishes you successful plantings and transplants!
When growing flowers indoors, you need to carefully take care of green pets so that they feel as comfortable as possible indoors. It is desirable to create conditions close to the natural habitat. To do this, you will need to maintain the temperature in the room, air humidity, and also choose the right soil for plants, which would combine exactly the qualities that this particular flower or shrub needs. Although in flower shops you can find bags with a universal one that will suit most green pets. About what kind of land is needed for planting indoor plants and how to properly classify the types of substrates, read our article.
Types and characteristics
Primer for indoor flowers can be purchased at any modern flower shop. They present a large assortment of land for planting indoor and outdoor shrubs, flowers, lianas, and so on. Thinking about how to choose the soil for indoor plants? The type of substrate is of great importance for the proper cultivation of flowers. Each of them has its own characteristics and unique composition.
heavy ground
This type of soil is best suited for growing large plants with a developed root system located at great depths. Among these representatives, the most common are clivia, dracaena and palm trees. As a rule, this garden mixture is prepared from three components:
- 5 parts of soddy soil;
- 1 part coarse sand;
- 1 part humus.
Knowing about the preferences of indoor flowers regarding the quality and composition of the substrate, it can be prepared at home. All components are harvested independently or purchased at any specialized store.
Medium soil
Most representatives of indoor plants prefer this type of soil, since its composition is optimally balanced. Such a soil mixture can be made from the following components:
- 1 part peat;
- 1 part sand;
- 2 parts of humus;
- 2 parts of sod land.
If you decide to prepare the substrate and soil for plants with your own hands, then it is worth noting that all components must be of good quality. You should also correctly observe all proportions, because with the slightest mistake, the root system of a pet can be affected by rot, which will be almost impossible to get rid of.
Light ground
This soil is best for growing small flowers that have a shallow root system. Among the popular representatives: gloxinia, cyclamen, begonia and aloe. Also, such a substrate can be successfully used for growing seedlings and for rooting cuttings. With a standard cooking scheme, you must mix the following elements:
- 1 part sand;
- 1 part of humus;
- 1 part of leaf land;
- 3 parts peat.
Before connecting all components, it is recommended to properly sift the earth from foreign bodies. Otherwise, small stones and twigs will interfere with the proper development of the root system. Remember that the soil must be clean, airy and loose.
Structure of substrates
The characteristics of the soil for indoor plants include two main parameters that you should pay attention to first of all - acidity and structure. The composition of purchased substrates can be very different. It is simply impossible to determine by eye whether the contents of the packages correspond to the composition indicated on the package. In this regard, when assessing the quality of the proposed substrate, it is necessary to focus on easily recognizable and always visible characteristics, for example, the presence or absence of structure.
Land for vines, shrubs, etc.) should have a pronounced structure, that is, the presence of some rough texture, heterogeneity and lumps. This can be easily checked by feeling the bag of substrate with your hands. In such soil, plants will never suffer due to dry "layers" that form on the surface of the flowerpot as a result of the drying of the soil. In a soil with a pronounced structure, moisture will be evenly distributed and retained in any part of the substrate. It also retains its air permeability even several years after planting, since the upper layers of the soil do not corrode and compact. At the same time, substrates that are too homogeneous are more prone to acidification, as well as uneven distribution and retention of moisture.
Soil acidity
Determining the composition of the soil for indoor plants is not so difficult, but what to do with acidity? Even in universal substrates, this parameter must be indicated on the packaging with the ground, since most indoor crops have their own individual characteristics, which are by no means uniform in terms of soil reaction requirements. Of course, most plants will thrive in a neutral environment, but there are also representatives that develop exclusively in soil with an alkaline or slightly alkaline reaction, as well as species that need an acidic environment.
For indoor flowers, the average acidity is 6.0 on the Wednesday scale). Soils with an index of 7.0 and above are alkaline or calcareous, and substrates with a pH reaction of 5.5 and below are classified as slightly acidic and acidic.
Alkaline soil is preferred by very few houseplants. Among the brightest representatives: chlorophytum, ofiopogon, calceolaria and bluebells.
The soil for indoor plants and flowers with a reaction of 5.5 pH will be optimal for cyclamen, cestrum, sansevera, pittosporum, pachyphytus, ferns, oxalis, dieffenbachia, cypress, cordilina, calla, camellia, gerbera, alocasia, akalifa and others. A substrate with an indicator of 4.0 to 5.0 on the pH scale is preferably used for Bergerantus, hydrangea, zuforbia, oscularia, ceropegia, rhododendron, etc.
In the description of any houseplant, in addition to the transplant strategy, as well as the optimal conditions of detention, one can find the preferred composition and structure of the soil. If you decide to determine which is better for flowers, then you should not stop at the "average" option, since for each pet you need to choose your own substrate, based on the individual preferences of this plant. Of course, most cultures will prefer a nutritious, loose and versatile type of substrate with a neutral environment, however, in indoor collections there are often species for which such soil will be detrimental.
Universal primer
When choosing a soil composition for plants, it is necessary to pay attention not only to the acidity index, which must be indicated on the packaging, but also to the suitability of the substrate for a particular type of plant - in most cases, a list of crops will also be given on the package with planting material. Also, do not forget that you can get advice on the suitability of a particular type of soil from a sales consultant who will help you make the right choice.
A single, or universal, complex earth mixture is most often found on sale. Manufacturers can call it whatever they want - from the usual "soil" to smart brand names. This soil is considered suitable for various groups of plants due to its "average" characteristics. Most unpretentious indoor crops that do not require special care will settle in it with great joy.
Special types of substrates
Special substrates are soil mixtures designed and selected for a specific family, species or type of indoor plants. A distinctive feature of such soil is its narrow orientation. These earthen mixtures differ from the universal ones not only in their structure and acidity, but also in a different degree of nutritional value, which is achieved through additional additives in the form of sphagnum or pine bark. Such compositions are always better than universal ones, since they really satisfy all the needs of indoor crops. However, it will be extremely difficult to choose this type of substrate, so you first need to familiarize yourself with the information about the plant itself.
Special types of substrate include:
- soil for violets;
- soil for growing indoor roses;
- substrate for tubers, jasmine, citrus;
- palm soils (in rare cases, you can find separate mixtures for dracaena and yucca);
- soil for succulents and cacti;
- soil mixtures for ornamental deciduous and ornamental flowering plants.
Moreover, ready-made soil for plants of narrow specialization is perfect for representatives who are similar in terms of soil requirements. For example, in the soil for violets, almost all Gesneriaceae will feel great, and the soil for yucca or dracaena is also suitable for hibiscus. But orchid soil is a highly specialized substrate that can only be used for orchids.
Composition and components
Now you know about the types of soil for plants. It's time to talk about the components that this or that mixture includes. The reaction of the soil will also vary depending on its composition. Such information will be especially useful for those who want to prepare the substrate at home.
sod land
The result of the overheating of the sod layers is quite nutritious soil. To prepare the substrate, it is necessary to put the grass in a pile, and then cover it with a layer of cow dung. It remains only to wait until this "pie" is overheated. The substrate is used for planting plants that prefer acidic soils, since soddy soil has an acidity of 5 to 6 pH. In order to reduce the reaction, as well as to give the substrate a looser structure, soddy soil is often mixed with other types of soil, as well as sand or clay.
leaf ground
Perhaps the lightest and loosest soil for plants. A mixture of substrate, which includes leafy soil, perfectly passes water and air to the root system, however, its nutritional value is at an average level, since such planting material is obtained as a result of rotting of simple leaves from deciduous trees. They are harvested in autumn in small piles and left for a period of one to two years. In order for the process of overheating to go faster, the layers of the heap must be constantly watered and turned over. Leafy soil can be used to enhance the acid reaction.
peat land
This land differs from others in its special lightness and friability. It is it that is most often used to improve the overall soil composition. The peat mix provides the mineral balance for any soil mix. It is obtained exclusively from peat, which has passed the decay period at least a year ago. In horticulture, high-moor peat is most actively used, less often - dark transitional peat, which has an acidity of 3.5 to 5.5 pH. If there is peat in the mixture, then you should definitely see fibrous reddish pieces in it. Such soil is best suited for growing young seedlings, especially all aroids. Ferns and philodendrons can even live in pure peat. However, in order for the soil to better pass water and air, it is recommended to mix it with other types of soil.
coniferous land
This variety of acidic light earth is perfect for growing flowering houseplants such as azaleas and anthuriums. The soil is the top layer of litter taken from a coniferous forest (usually pine). If you decide to prepare the soil for the plants yourself, then you should know that you do not need to remove the layer from the very top, since there are many unripe needles there. It is best to use the bottom layer, which is at a depth of 20 centimeters. This is a fairly loose earth with a reaction of 4 to 5 pH.
Compost or manure
A rather saturated and rich in active substances earth, which is very aggressive in its pure form. If you decide to add pure humus to the substrate, you risk damaging the plant root system (it will simply burn out). So this type of soil should definitely be mixed with other types of soil. To obtain compost, it is best to use spent greenhouse manure, which decomposes within 2-3 years. Its acidity on the pH scale is in the region of 8.0 units.
Sand
One of the most important components for many earth mixtures. Although many people say that you can’t grow anything in sand, you won’t be able to completely do without it in home floriculture. For planting plants, only river white sand is used. Before use, it must be thoroughly washed, ignited, and also disinfected.
Bark
In most cases, flower growers use exclusively pine bark. It can be collected right in the forest. For disinfection and softening, the material is boiled for 30 minutes in boiling water, after which it is cut into small pieces. The bark will give the substrate good water permeability, as well as lightness. It will also provide an acid reaction for the mixture (4-4.5 pH). It is also used to make the soil for plants looser. This property is especially required by aroids, ferns, and most of all - orchids.
Sphagnum (moss)
This is an indispensable component of the soil mixture for Moss is used to make the soil light, loose, hygroscopic. However, before use, it must be well dried, and then grind almost into powder. Sphagnum will give an acid reaction around 4 pH. Also, moss is perfect for covering the aerial roots that are on the trunks of some plants, so that they do not dry out and do not freeze. It is also better to cover dug branches (during reproduction) with fresh moss.
The information from the article will help you properly prepare the soil for pets and answer the question of what kind of land is needed for planting indoor flowers. Remember that not all crops prefer to "live" in universal soil, so before transplanting, it is better to consult with a specialist in a flower shop or find information in the relevant literature.
