How and what apple tree seedlings are worth buying for planting. Pruning young apple trees, one-year-old and two-year-old seedlings What a one-year-old apple tree seedling looks like
Logically, one can understand that young trees are pruned to form a crown. Here the main goal is to create its skeleton in accordance with the chosen model. Evenly place overgrown branches on the main branches. Do not delay the transition of the plant to fruiting. In the future, while the growth is strong enough (the length of the shoots of the continuation of the main branches is at least 30-40 cm), and the fruiting is quite satisfactory in terms of the quantity and quality of fruits, the main goal of pruning is to maintain the established optimal balance between growth and fruiting. Do not allow branches to go beyond the established dimensions of the crown. Avoid overloading with overgrown branches. Prevent weakening of growth. Maintain good lighting throughout the depth of the crown.
When the length of the growth of the continuation branches becomes less than 15-10 cm or, due to an oversight, their growth stops altogether, pruning will be required. rejuvenating. Its goal is to prevent the weakening of growth, and if this has already happened, then stimulate growth in such a way that the length of the shoots becomes at least 30-40 cm.
If the crowns, whether in young or already fairly old trees, have gone beyond the optimal dimensions, have become very thick, overloaded with fruit branches (by the way, if there are a lot of such branches, most of them are weak, unable to bear fruit normally), pruning is used. restorative. The purpose of such pruning is to bring the dimensions of the crowns to the optimal size, improve the light regime, normalize the number of branches, and ensure a balance between growth and fruiting. Restorative pruning is also applied to frozen trees and to trees that have received serious mechanical damage.
These are, in general terms, the main purposes of pruning. As you can see, they do not remain constant and depend on the age and condition of the plants. And again, do not rush with a pruner and a file, but enter the garden with a notebook and a pencil. Like a journalist. And try to interview the trees. They will tell everything about themselves. It is only important to ask them the right questions. Of course, they will answer with their appearance and condition. Therefore, you will have to look more closely than listen.
Based on the results of the inspection, determine what and why pruning is needed for each specific plant. What is needed: to form a crown, limit its dimensions, lighten or, conversely, increase the "saturation" of its volume with overgrown branches. Or maybe the growth has become so weak that it is already necessary to rejuvenate the tree, or there are dangerous sharp forks in the crown, which sometimes leads to breaking off branches or even breaking the entire crown. Make notes in your notebook. Take your time to think about the situation. But that's not all. The most important thing is ahead.
Now we need to determine the most effective way to achieve the goal. This is perhaps more difficult. Without knowing the basic patterns of tree growth, it is impossible to predict its reaction to a particular impact, which means that it is impossible to systematically regulate growth and fruiting. There are many regularities. You can't cover all of them in one article. But the basics must be known clearly.
The first is apical dominance: the height of the tree and the length of all branches increase due to the shoots growing from the apical buds. These buds tend to be better developed and receive more moisture and nutrients. They concentrate substances that stimulate growth, and substances that inhibit growth fall on the share of the lower ones. Therefore, the strongest shoots grow from the apical buds. Hence the term - apical dominance (apex - tip).
If the apical bud is removed during the dormant period of the tree, its functions are transferred to the bud closest to the top. She will now exercise apical dominance. The strongest shoot is formed from it. If, however, the top of the branch is removed when the growth of shoots has already begun, then the property of apical dominance will be temporarily lost in this branch. From all the buds, shoots of approximately the same strength will begin to grow. In this case, due to the suppression of apical dominance, the fouling of branches is enhanced. But not always. In a number of stone fruits, especially with weak growth of shoots, only the apical bud is vegetative. Removing it leads to the cessation of the growth of this branch. The ability to grow will increase in one of the side branches placed on it.
The property of apical dominance is not equally expressed in different cultures and varieties.
It can be from very strong to very weak. Accordingly, a different ability of lateral buds to awaken to growth and a different ability to form strong shoots are distinguished.
Such arousal of the kidneys is considered very low, when less than 20% of the total number of them on the branches started to grow, low - 30, medium - 50, high - 70 and very high - more than 70%. According to the number of grown long shoots of the vegetative type, plants are distinguished with a very low shoot productivity, when only 5% of the total number of buds gave strong growth, and very high if they are more than 25%.
The manifestation in various combinations of these two qualities: the awakening of the kidneys and the ability to form shoots, depends on the culture, variety, age and condition of the plants. Therefore, it is not possible to give once and for all the classification of varieties according to these characteristics. One can only guess based on average varietal characteristics, but the adjustments in each specific case can be very large. And again, recipes, ready-made solutions are not needed. Each gardener should take a closer look at the tree and count on several strong branches how many in the previous year there were on the annual growth of buds, how many of them woke up and how many long shoots were formed. In the future, when experience is gained, arithmetic will become unnecessary. From afar, by eye, you will determine both the awakening of the kidneys and the shoot-forming ability. Moreover, it is quite accurate, but to shorten the branches of those plants that have a high shoot-forming ability. This will lead to excessive thickening of the crown. Strong pruning will be required.
It will be followed by an even greater increase in growth and an even greater thickening. And so you will cut the tree, cut it, but you will not wait for the fruits. If the excitability of the kidneys is weak, shortening, on the contrary, is necessary. Otherwise, the branches will be ankle-length. For most of the length, they will not overgrow. What will the tree bear fruit on? Again, there will be wood, but no fruit.
And one more regularity cannot be ignored. It can be formulated as follows: the growth of branches is the stronger, the closer the direction of their growth to the vertical, and the tendency to bear fruit increases as the branch deviates to a horizontal and drooping position. Hence the practical conclusion. When pruning fruit trees, especially young ones, one should not get carried away cutting branches that are less than 40 cm long. Especially if they occupy a position close to horizontal or even drooping.
Now you can take a pruner, a file and go to the tree.
Let's talk now about the newly planted plant. We need to lay the crown. The most common and most accessible is sparse-tiered. The height of the stem is 50 cm. From the branches located above the stem, select three as the main ones. They should be placed at intervals of 10-15 cm along the trunk, but it does not matter if a little closer or a little further. One branch should be directed in one direction from the trunk, and the other two - in the opposite direction. The angle between them (in projection) should be 60-70°.
After choosing the main branches, decide the fate of the rest. Bend the strong ones to a horizontal position, and even better to a drooping position, leave the weak ones (shorter than 40 cm) to grow freely. Competitor cut on the ring. Cut the main branches so that their ends are at the same level. If the conductor is very long, shorten it so that it is 15-20 cm higher than the main branches.
Next year, 50-60 cm above the last branch of the tier, select another one. Then remember what the awakening of the kidneys and the shoot-forming ability of this tree are. This will tell you how much you need to shorten the branches of the continuation of the main branches so that there is no thickening or exposure. Determined? Once again, make sure that everything is correct, nothing is missed. Now cut the branches so that their ends are at the same level. Cut off the newly selected main branch so that it is 15-20 cm higher than the first tier. Remove the competitor and all strong vertical branches. Cut the conductor. It should also be 15-20 cm higher than the last main branch, that is, it should maintain a leading position in the crown. If the previously bent branches interfere, cut them off to some weak branch and leave them as overgrown.
In the future, continue to form the crown in the same way. Lay one more, maximum two branches. Make sure that there is no thickening of the crown or bare branches. In the first case, loosen the shortening, in the second - strengthen. Competitors and strong vertical branches are constantly cut into the ring. Weak - save. After laying the last main branch - this is most likely the fifth (3 + 1 + 1) or sixth - and cut off the central conductor above it in a year. He is no longer needed. The optimal crown height is 2.5-3 m. At this level, it will be necessary to keep it. All branches that will strive to cross the line must be cut off with a transfer to horizontal branches oriented from the center to the periphery of the crown.
If your trees are already formed, albeit somewhat not according to the rules, but they grow and bear fruit well, you don’t need to be smart and forcefully squeeze them into the formula 3 + 1 + 1 or 3 + 2 + 1 + 1. Let them stay as they are. Here it is important to regulate the growth, the load of overgrown branches, to prevent the trees from going beyond the established dimensions, to maintain good lighting throughout the entire depth of the crown. Cropping in this case is simple. Predominantly thinning branches. Removal of strong vertical branches and cutting of old fruit twigs. Pruning for translation of branches rushing up and into the aisle. The width of the crown in one of the directions should be no more than 2.5-3 m, in the other it may be more. When thinning the crown, one should try to find one or two large branches, cutting which can thin the crown and improve its light regime. When cutting more small branches and labor, a lot is required, and the effect is always much lower. No need to be afraid of one large cut. Do not think that this will reduce the yield. Believe the rich experience of thousands of gardeners - not at all.
If the trees have stopped growing, then in addition to the pruning described above, it is necessary to rejuvenate the branches, namely, all branches with short growths must be shortened. To say to the wood what year the branches should be cut means to say nothing. Better this way: inspect several large branches from their top to the base. Determine by the growth rings when the length of the growths has become less than 25-30 cm. Here, in the place where it was still 30 cm or more, select a strong lateral branch and make a cut on it. If there is no strong branch, cut over the weak one. Growth will intensify. It is not necessary to inspect all branches. Once set where to cut, and then cut all the branches in exactly the same way, approximately in the same place.
A - the beginning of the formation
B - continuation of crown formation.
(in the projection: a solid line - the branches of the lower tier,
intermittent - higher located branches)
Summer assignment. Watch how the plants react to your pruning. Mark in your notebook what went well and what didn't. Try to explain to yourself the reason for the failure. Make adjustments for the future. There will be many more situations like this.
Video: How to direct the growth of the skeletal branches of an apple tree?
Often behind the beauty embodied by material means, there is a huge human labor. Behind the facade of a beautiful building - the idea of an architect and the work of builders, behind unusual dresses - the fantasy of a couturier and a seamstress robot, behind a magnificent garden - regular care and care of a gardener. Well-groomed trees do not appear on their own: first a seedling is planted, then the gardener feeds and cuts it, forms a crown and gets rid of pests. And only in the end his labor is rewarded with beautiful fruits. So that you can take care of your garden, we will talk about pruning fruit trees, in particular apple trees. After all, the correct pruning of apple tree seedlings is the key to the future flowering and fruiting of the tree.
Why prune seedlings
First of all, pruning the apple tree allows you to give the appearance of the tree a neat look and correctly form the crown. Timely and regular pruning of an apple tree seedling stimulates the growth, proper development and formation of a full-fledged useful fruit.
Pruning an apple tree for different purposes:
- form a beautiful and regular crown, which will make it easy to harvest the next crop;
- removing competing, but not so developed shoots, strengthen young branches. Thus, they ensure the full growth of a young tree;
- remove dried, deformed and diseased branches, contributing to the emergence and growth of shoots that can bear fruit in the future;
- provide access to the sun to all branches;
- preparing the seedling for the winter period.
The choice of time of year for pruning depends on the end goal and result. As a rule, apple trees are pruned in spring or autumn. Is it possible to prune a seedling in the summer? Yes, but only if absolutely necessary.
Rules for pruning tree seedlings
Pruning of apple tree seedlings in spring should be carried out before the start of the growing season: the tree not only recovers faster, but also grows more intensively. In summer, shoots are usually shortened, stimulating the formation of fruit buds and improving fruit quality. However, the most successful time for pruning is autumn, when the tree goes into a period of "rest".
At this time, dead and damaged parts are removed. After frost, pruning can be fraught with disease and death of the seedling. To know how to properly cut a seedling, you need to follow certain rules.
In autumn, you should act like this:
- Remove large damaged or rotten branches.
- Thin out the crown in areas of dense accumulation of branches, getting rid of weak and inferiorly developed shoots.
- Get rid of branches that grow at a sharp angle to the trunk: such branches tend to break in case of a heavy harvest.
- Protect the tree by treating the cuts with garden pitch or oil paint.
- Incinerate waste to prevent the spread of disease.
Spring pruning is carried out in March or April. In order not to cut the seedling incorrectly, follow these rules:
- Make cuts over the eyes.
- Treat the cut points with garden pitch.
- Get rid of last year's shoots.
- Choose the length of the trimmed branch according to the variety of the apple tree: for dwarfs, pruning is performed on 2-3 eyes, for medium ones - at least 5, for tall ones - from 9.
Seedling pruning scheme
Annual apple tree seedlings are pruned in the first year after planting. An annual seedling is often not branched, so it is crowned and cut. The height is calculated based on the height of the rootstock. Srednerosly and seedling rootstocks allow you to cut the shoots higher. After the tree has grown enough, the leaves in the stem area must be removed. If the planted apple trees are already branched, you need to start removing side shoots.
Those branches that grow within 70 cm, and those that grow at right angles, are removed. Branches growing at a wide angle are shortened. Such branches provide a strong crown and ripen earlier for fruiting. Pruning two-year-old apple tree seedlings has its own specifics. Since such a seedling already has several shoots from the trunk, after planting, two-year-old apple trees are pruned, and only the most developed shoots that grow at a wide angle are left. Subsequently, they will form the "skeleton" of the tree. Extra branches are removed.
To form a central conductor that will grow vertically, choose the most developed kidney.
The height of this shoot should be several buds greater than that of the other branches of the "skeleton". Pruning of the remaining shoots is carried out in such a way that the lower ones are longer than the upper ones. It is this pruning of a two-year-old apple tree that forms a popular type of crown - strong and rounded. The next 3-5 years, pruning apple trees in spring or autumn is not recommended, otherwise fruiting may be delayed. But it is still necessary to remove diseased and broken branches. If the tree is growing too actively, you can shorten the guide a little.
Tree crown formation
Many gardeners prefer cupped crowns as they are neat and easy to form. The branches, arranged symmetrically, form one tier at a height of half a meter from the ground, getting rid of the central conductor. It is advisable to remove it within a few months after planting. To form a beautiful “bowl”, you need to allocate enough space for the seedling, later you may need to tie branches. Dwarf rootstocks serve as an excellent basis for this type of crown. Its main advantage is the free access of sunlight to all branches. In the future, you should only take care of the timely removal of the tops from the skeletal branches and extra shoots growing inside.
And do not forget about hygienic pruning. The branches of the "skeleton" should be located in subordination: the closer to the trunk, the longer. The fusiform shape is also very popular: semi-skeletal branches are arranged spirally on the trunk. Height, as a rule, should not exceed three meters. Since the branches must take a horizontal position, they are bent with the help of wire extensions. However, this type of crown is only suitable for seedlings with low-growing rootstocks.
Another suitable type of crown for apple trees with dwarf rootstocks is a slender spindle. The height of the central conductor is about 2.5 m, and the crown is formed by short horizontal branches. The hatching stem is quite low. Dwarf varieties are formed with a bushy type of crown, with a stem height of no more than a few tens of centimeters, in order to be completely under the snow in winter. Take care of seedlings properly and they will become beautiful trees.
Video "Pruning apple trees"
In this video you will learn how to properly prune apple trees.
Pruning a tree is practically the only way to care for it. Moreover, both newly planted seedlings and already old trees are subject to it. Despite the fact that this method of care is the most common, it is also one of the most difficult.
Pruning apple trees correctly in early spring, before the start of the growing season. As for the seedlings, they begin to cut them off the next spring after planting. Then the procedure is repeated every year. Thanks to this care, you can correctly form the crown of a growing tree. The right crown is the key to a bountiful harvest.
When pruning old trees, first of all, properly clean them of dry and broken branches. Then the branches are cut to better illuminate the tree with the sun, and in this way they form the correct crown. It is worth remembering that you cannot cut too many branches from one tree in one year. If you overdo it, the apple tree can dry out.
Tools
For proper and easy work, we need:
- garden saw;
- lopper for branches that are difficult to get;
- garden knife;
- secateurs.
garden saw
This tool is used to work with branches that exceed 2-3 cm in diameter. For pruning apple trees, it is right to choose a small and well-made saw. It should leave a neat and thin cut. The set of teeth must be correct so that no burrs remain during the cut. In this case, the cut will be quickly and evenly tightened. The ideal option would be a small, lightweight saw with a comfortable handle and good sharpening.
Pruner for branches
A pruner is no different from a pruner, except for elongated handles. Such a device makes it easy and convenient to work from a height. Also, the purpose of the lopper is to get hard-to-reach processes. The tool can handle branches with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 cm. If you can overpay, then it is better to give preference to a more expensive tool. The quality, and, accordingly, the possibility of such an acquisition will be much greater.
garden knife
This simple tool is also designed for pruning trees, namely for young branches and shoots. It is also used for cleaning wounds in a tree and for other garden work. This knife has a comfortable handle, a very sharp and durable blade.
Secateurs
The most popular and widely used gardening tool. It is intended for cutting branches with a diameter of up to 2-2.5 cm. It can also be used to remove overgrowth of dry branches. If properly cared for, the pruner will become an indispensable assistant to the gardener for many years to come.
Instruction
Pruning after planting
Tree pruning should begin the following spring after planting. This is important to do before the buds of a young tree begin to swell. . The first procedure is carried out so that the roots of the seedling can provide the ground part of the plant with nutrients in the first year. It can also be used to remove defects in the crown of a planted apple tree.
Annual seedlings
As a rule, such a tree does not yet have branches. It is cut at a height of 80-100 cm above the ground. If there are branches, then all shoots that are at a height of up to 50-70 cm from the ground are first removed. Then you need to remove the processes located at an acute angle to the trunk. Removal is carried out so that no more than 5 and at least 3 buds remain, counting from the base of the branch.
1. Pruning an annual apple tree sapling 2. Pruning an annual branched sapling
The upper part of the trunk is also shortened. It should not protrude more than 20 cm from the cut lateral processes. Correctly remove not all processes that are at an acute angle to the trunk. Some of them need to be stretched and fixed with a spacer. Thus, the departure angle is made larger and it grows stronger to the trunk.
Biennial seedlings
Biennial apple seedlings are small and have only a few side shoots. They need to be cut in the same way as annuals that have branching. But there are also nuances. 3 to 5 strong branches are left, growing at wide angles. They will become the skeleton of the future tree.
Two-year-old apple tree seedling: 1. Before and 2. After pruning
The remaining remaining branches, which also have a wide angle, are shortened so that they grow in tiers. The bottom tier will be the widest. Its length should be no more than 30 cm. Further, less and less, until we reach the trunk. It also needs to be shortened by analogy with an annual tree.
three year old trees
This is the third spring that a young apple tree meets in our garden. Now she needs pruning in the second tier. It is necessary to shorten the branches 10-15 cm higher than the accepted length of the tier. The growths of skeletal branches are also pruned. They are shortened 10 cm below their top, and you can still leave a few skeletal branches of the second order. It is also desirable to shorten them a little.
Tree pruning in the third year
In the spring of the third year, all competing branches of the main conductor (trunk) and conductors of skeletal branches are also removed. The growths on them are also removed, as well as the growths at their base. It is necessary to leave naturally developing formations such as spears, ringlets, fruit twigs, spurs, mixed and bouquet twigs.
Four year old
In the fourth year, the central conductor is shortened by about 1/4 or 1/3, and the remaining one-year-old part should not exceed 60 cm in length. The branches of the first tier, which have an acute angle, are also removed and translated. It must be remembered that the angle of departure should be in the range of 40-60 degrees. Still, by analogy with the third year, pruning is carried out and the formation of the second tier of skeletal branches continues.
Tree pruning for the fourth year
This spring, the first thinning is carried out, in which all annual shoots longer than 70 cm are removed. The remaining shoots are shortened and turn into semi-skeletal branches.
Five-year
In the fifth year, the trees finish forming their crowns. But until this happens, you need to carry out another mandatory pruning. A good branch is selected with a wide angle of departure from the trunk, which is 40-50 cm above the second tier. Then it is shortened by 1/3 or 1/4 of its length. Also, if necessary, increase the angle of departure of the skeletal branches of the first and second tiers.
Five-year-old apple tree: 1. Before and 2. After pruning
If possible, the third skeletal branch is left in the first tier, and the first in the second. Further formation of the crown and its thinning is carried out by analogy with the previous year. It must be remembered that the formation of the crown is completed only in the sixth year. But first, when pruning a tree for the sixth spring, another skeletal branch is isolated in the second tier. Now it remains only to thin out the crown annually in the spring and remove unnecessary shoots.
old apple trees
Old apple trees are also pruned in early spring, before the buds swell on the tree. The first thing you need to pay attention to is dry, rotten, bruised and cancerous branches of the bark. We remove them at the very beginning. Then you should cut off unpromising skeletal branches. It is also impossible to leave processes that grow inside the crown or duplicate it. Still, if required, you can thin out the crown and make it more symmetrical.
Pruning old apple trees: 1. Before and 2. After pruning
Start pruning with the largest branches, and then move on to smaller ones. Slices from a hacksaw, the diameter of which is more than 3 cm, must be covered with garden paste with putty. Well suited for these purposes "Rannet". Covering the cuts with paint or garden pitch is strongly discouraged.. They only slow down the tightening of the cuts.
Important! Properly pruning apple trees - in the spring. During this period, the cuts are very quickly tightened.
Video
Apple tree in the photo
The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in Russian gardens, which is partly why it is considered a kind of "model" for pruning. The principles, techniques and rules for pruning apple trees, pears and other pome fruits, as well as stone fruits, are largely similar.
Proper planting of a seedling and caring for it is the first half of success. The second is the competent formation of the crown of a young apple tree. In most cases, sanitary pruning is carried out, its purpose is to remove damaged shoots and roots. If the root system is poorly developed, then the shoots must be shortened in order to equalize the aboveground and underground parts and increase the chances of the tree to live in a new place. If planting or transplanting a tree is carried out in the fall, then pruning (with the exception of sanitary) must be postponed until the next spring so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the plant. If the seedling has not completed leaf fall, then he will have to help - remove the leaves manually or with a pruner.
Before you properly prune young apple trees, keep in mind that its degree depends on the age, variety and condition of the seedling. Usually these are annual, biennial, three-year-old trees. An annual seedling should have a mature stem and a normally formed apical bud. It should not have leaves.
Large-sized birds take root very poorly, and if they survive at all, they are delayed in development for a long time. The reasons for this are most often objective. Transportation, a sharp change in conditions are the strongest stressful situations for a large plant. The problem is exacerbated by the location of nurseries, as they tend to be located where the trees grow faster, that is, in areas with a milder climate. As a result, your large apple tree may be at risk of winter damage.
With proper pruning, a young apple tree often forms a sparse-tiered or tiered crown - they are easy to maintain and correspond to the biological characteristics of the trees. Most often, a sparse-tiered and tiered crown is chosen for trees on vigorous and medium-sized rootstocks. The difference is that in a tiered crown, all branches extending from the trunk are skeletal and enter the tiers, while the sparse-tiered crown is less “strict”, and the tiers of branches alternate with semi-skeletal branches extending from the trunk.
Before you properly form the crown of a young apple tree, familiarize yourself with the sequence of actions proposed below, or, as fruit growers say, with the procedure for removing the crown.
With the normal development of the tree, every year, starting from the second year of the tree's life, a new tier of 3-5 branches is laid. If the length of the leader or the continuation shoot is insufficient, the laying of the next tier is postponed a year later.
See a photo of how to properly prune an apple tree at a young age:
Creating several tiers when pruning and shaping apple trees is a somewhat cyclical process. To stimulate branching and good development of future skeletal branches, the top of the continuation shoot is shortened and this operation is repeated when laying each next tier. The distance between the tiers depends on the type of rootstock and the characteristics of the variety (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is less than for vigorous ones) and is 50-70 cm, the upper tiers can be placed a little closer to each other (lower limit - 40 cm). When pruning and forming an apple tree, the optimal distance between branches included in one tier is 20-30 cm. Branches in adjacent tiers should not be located one above the other. The central conductor or continuation shoot should be 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the last tier (in practice, this means that its top should be that much higher), and if necessary, the branches and (or) the central conductor are shortened.
The decision on how to form a crown at an apple tree and how many tiers to make is made by the gardener himself, guided by the convenience of harvesting and carrying out agrotechnical measures.
The video of pruning a young apple tree shows how to form a seedling:
Usually, when pruning to form the crown of an apple tree, 3-4 tiers are laid, in this case the height of the tree on a vigorous rootstock is about 4 m, on a dwarf rootstock - 2-2.5 m. When the tree reaches the desired height, growth is limited - the central conductor is cut out on translation.
An annual seedling looks like a thin twig with roots, less often with the first thin branches, it depends on the variety and how the seedling was cared for in the nursery. The "fat" and powerfully branching one-year-old seedling is either overfed with fertilizers or was grown in the southern regions.
Its winter hardiness in the middle lane is quite problematic. If necessary, perform sanitary pruning - both the above-ground part and the root system. If the seedling is purchased with an open root system, it is especially important to equalize the underground and aboveground parts.
Pruning of annual apple tree seedlings after planting is carried out at a height of 80-100 cm in order to stimulate the growth of lateral branches - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier.
All buds and branches (if any) from ground level to the first tier of skeletal branches are removed - this is the bole zone. A stem that is too low will hinder tillage, harvesting, and other operations, while a stem that is too high can suffer from sunburn.
If the seedling already has branches, then when pruning an annual apple tree, we outline those that will create the first tier - there should be 3-5 of them, directed in different directions. If there are no branches yet, then 5-8 buds are added to form the first tier (this amount is taken with a margin). One more kidney is left - it should be located above the tier and look in the direction opposite to the bend in the budding zone, so that in the future the trunk is even. A continuation shoot will grow from this bud - it will replace the leader shoot, and in order for the trunk to be even, it is tied to a peg. It is possible to leave a spike from the removed leader shoot as a temporary support, and cut it off completely when the continuation shoot is fixed in a vertical position.
In the process of properly pruning an annual apple tree, all branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed, the rest are shortened by 3-5 buds. This is done for their better development and branching.
These photos show how to prune an apple tree at one year of age:
Pruning and shaping the crown of a seedling of a two-year-old apple tree (with video)
A two-year-old seedling begins to branch without fail. When pruning and forming the crown of a two-year-old apple tree, a strong shoot is grown from the uppermost bud, which will become a continuation of the leader shoot - it is better to tie it up so that the emerging stem is even. If there are competing shoots at the top of the seedling, they are either removed while they are still small, or carefully bent and fixed. Branches extending from the trunk at an angle of less than 45 degrees are an unsuitable candidate for the role of skeletal ones: they can be cut out, or you can try to bend them with the help of spacers and stretch marks. While the branches are thin and flexible, optimize the angle of their departure from the trunk. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to do this, and in an adult tree it is simply impossible.
Any fixation of the branches in the desired position must be mobile so that the crown is not broken by the wind - but also strong enough to achieve the desired result. For the winter, spacers and stretch marks are removed, and in the spring, if necessary, they are returned to their place.
When pruning seedlings of a two-year-old apple tree, branches growing between tiers can be shortened and bent at an obtuse angle, then they will give the first fruits faster. Subsequently, they are removed if a longline crown is selected.
The side branches of a young apple tree are left, even if they are to be removed in the future. This approach contributes to the formation of a downward expanding and, as a result, stable trunk. Extra branches when pruning a two-year-old apple tree are removed gradually. First, they are shortened, and after a year or two, when the tree has enough other branches and leaves, they are completely cut out.
Shoots that will have to turn into skeletal branches are shortened to stimulate branching. The degree depends on the condition of the branches and their planned length - the bottom branches should end up being the longest, so they are often cut more heavily than the top ones. And although at first the crown will be, as it were, “inverted”, further growth of the shoots will put everything in its place, since strong shoots will grow on a heavily pruned branch. Small branches extending from the skeletal branches are preserved - these are overgrown, on which the crop will form in the future.
The video "Pruning a two-year-old apple tree" shows how this work is done:
How to prune three-year-old apple trees in spring
A three-year-old tree branches "in all directions", and new skeletal branches are also laid in it. The branches of the first tier, planted last year, are covered with branches of the 2nd order. If necessary, remove or bend the branches. Lay the second tier at a distance of 50-70 cm from the first - so that the branches of the second tier are in between the branches of the first tier.
When pruning three-year-old apple trees, we follow the rule of subordination of branches - the higher the branch is located, the shorter it should be - this is the only way the entire crown will be evenly illuminated. Branches of subsequent orders should be shorter and located lower (the conductor is 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the 1st order, the overgrown branches are shorter than the branches of the 1st and 2nd order). The crown of the tree should fit into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the ground; ideally, each skeletal branch also fits into an isosceles triangle with its base facing the trunk. The branches of one tier are usually equalized, that is, pruning of the branches of a three-year-old apple tree in spring is done at the same height. If the height of the branches is not the same, then the one whose growth point is higher grows more actively. This technique can be used to stimulate or limit the growth of individual branches in a tier.
And what is the right way to prune apple trees at the age of three, if the branching of the trees is active and good growth is observed? In this case, you can cut the branches scheduled for removal in the previous season.
Technique for pruning a four- and five-year-old apple tree
The pruning technique for a four-year-old apple tree is carried out in a similar way: the third tier is laid, excess branches are removed.
And how to do spring pruning of apple trees that have reached the age of five? A five-year-old tree is considered to be formed, at this age modern varieties usually bear fruit, from this moment the tree can be called an adult. It has 3-4 beautiful and durable tiers. Often the tree has already reached the desired height. If necessary, its further upward growth can be limited. To do this, with the correct pruning of apple trees, the central conductor is removed by pruning for translation - on a well-located branch. If the height of the tree is insufficient, we lay one tier per year until the result satisfies us, and only then we cut out the central conductor.
Remember that the indicated sequence of actions when pruning young apple trees for beginner gardeners is only a guide, and not a hard set of rules. If for some reason the tree develops poorly, then it is not scary to postpone the laying of tiers or pruning a year or two later, and during this time to eliminate shortcomings in agricultural technology.
Pruning and shaping the crown of young apple trees: videos and tips for beginners
Cupped (or vase-shaped) crown shape is quite popular. Its removal is very simple - one tier of branches is laid at the desired height (usually the trunk is low, no more than 50 cm, and in a tier there are 3-4 branches arranged symmetrically) and the central conductor is removed. At the apple tree, it is cut out as early as possible (for stone fruits, after 2-4 years). To make the bowl beautiful, you will need a lot of space and, perhaps, a garter of branches. Usually such a crown is chosen for trees on dwarf rootstocks. Its advantage is good sun exposure. Further steps to form the crown of an apple tree are quite simple - timely removal of tops that will often appear on skeletal branches, as well as extra branches, especially those directed inside the crown, sanitary pruning. It should be remembered about the rule of subordination when laying the branches of skeletal branches - the closer to the trunk, the longer the branches should be.
In English gardens, you can often find apple trees that have only one tier of skeletal branches, and the central conductor has been removed. Since trees are usually densely planted in the orchard, the skeletal branches will sooner or later begin to grow upwards. It turns out not a bowl, but rather, a "glass" on a high leg, and not always symmetrical, but not without charm.
To improve the illumination of the adult crown, some of the branches are sometimes removed so that the crown, rounded in plan, becomes lobed.
The spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebush, is easy to breed and quite spectacular. Semi-skeletal branches are laid on the trunk, arranging them in a spiral, and the height of the tree is usually limited to 3 m. With the help of stretch marks, the branches are given a position close to horizontal (in different modifications, the angle of departure of the branches may be smaller, and the length is different). This type of crown is only suitable for trees on low-growing rootstocks.
A slender spindle, or grusbek, is also a compact crown. It is displayed on a low trunk, the central conductor is usually cut out at a height of 2.5 m, and the entire crown is formed by short horizontal overgrowing branches. Outwardly, this form resembles a columnar apple tree and is suitable for trees on dwarf rootstocks.
In harsh conditions, for example, in Siberia, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of fruit trees by any means.
And how to prune apple trees of dwarf varieties? In such trees, the crown is formed in a bushy form (6-8 skeletal branches, the lower ones are located in one tier, the rest are singly, all branches of the second order are shortened).
Since damage to the stem is most dangerous in severe winters, the most common is a low-stem bushy crown with a stem height of no more than 30 cm. In this case, the snow cover becomes a natural shelter, a “warm blanket”.
The slate form is used in the most severe climatic conditions. It is characterized by the absence of a pronounced trunk and horizontally located skeletal branches, literally lying on the ground. Such a crown completely hibernates under a snow cover.
The video "Pruning apple trees for beginners" clearly demonstrates how to form a crown of trees:
Artificial types of crown formation in apple trees
Mold gardening is the creation of artificial crown forms with high decorative qualities. They can be either flat (palmettes, cordons) or voluminous, often symmetrical. Artificial forms of the crown are associated with gardens in a regular style (for example, in England a rare brick wall is not decorated with a fruit or decorative tree formed in the form of a palmette or cordon, and in France, artificial forms often adorn the famous French ornamental vegetable gardens with beds bordered with boxwood borders) .
In addition to decorating walls, artificial forms make it possible to achieve fruiting from more southern varieties (a brick wall accumulates heat and creates a favorable microclimate, a concrete wall, on the contrary, is very cold and contributes to the freezing of plants). Artificial forms usually bear fruit faster than traditional ones, and although the total number of fruits is not always large, all fruits are of excellent quality, because they receive a lot of sun. This is a great solution for a garden or a fragment of it in a regular style - or just a highlight of your site. Several identical flat shapes (trees can be of different varieties) on a common frame - a variant of a compact green wall for zoning the garden space.
For shaped gardening, only trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are suitable, and always with an annular type of fruiting. They will need regular pruning, most often several times a season, and a reliable frame for life, because for all their beauty, such forms do not resist the elements well. Branches that protrude beyond the crown are shortened, cut or tied in the desired direction. To control the strength of growth and for better branching, annual growths are regularly pinched. The branch is usually removed in parts, since the number of leaves in artificial forms, especially at a young age, is small.
Artificial forms of the crown can also be voluminous, from an apple tree you can even create a covered alley - berso.
It can be said that such types of apple tree formation in horticulture are akin to the Japanese art of bonsai, but, unlike it, it seeks not to imitate nature, but, on the contrary, to subdue it, although the techniques are very similar, the main one being pinching. By the way, Japanese and Chinese masters create bonsai from fruit trees, this is considered a sign of high professionalism.
In a palmette, all branches are located in the same plane, and their direction can be from horizontal to oblique and articulated, the number of tiers also varies depending on the type. Palmettes are usually symmetrical crown variants with a well-defined central conductor. Each tier of branches needs a horizontal frame element, most often it is a thick wire or a strong rail.
A cordon is a straight trunk (it can also be inclined), as if running along a stretched rope (the name of the form comes from the French corde - rope), covered with a small number of short overgrowing branches. Cordons are compact, so a whole collection can be placed in a relatively small area. Outwardly, the cordons are somewhat reminiscent of columnar apple trees, but the former have a compact habitus due to regular pruning, the latter due to their biological characteristics.
It is not always possible to achieve the perfect symmetry of an artificial shape with the help of trimming. Vaccination comes to the rescue - if there is no kidney or shoot in the right place, then it can be artificially grown.
For stone fruit crops, a strict crown plane is undesirable, therefore, skeletal branches are oriented, as a rule, at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the row line.
Proper pruning of an adult apple tree in spring
Finally, your tree is already mature and has begun to bear fruit. At this stage, it is especially important to extend its "full life" and increase productivity. Ideally, the period of supporting or regulating pruning of adult apple trees lasts for decades.
This type of pruning keeps the crown in the right size, fights its thickening, regulates the light and air conditions, prevents the branches from being exposed, especially in the central part, and thereby increases the laying of fruit formations.
It is important to carry out maintenance pruning of adult apple trees regularly in the spring. They paused - and the growth of the tree is out of control, you have to cut a lot and hard, after which the struggle begins - you cut, and the tree stubbornly strives to return the lost volume, for example, forms a lot of tops. As a result, both you and the tree expend a lot of energy.
The normalization of flowers and ovaries also applies to maintenance pruning. Plants always lay flowers "in reserve", in some years only every tenth flower becomes a fruit. Therefore, the ovary trees are shed - first of all, unfertilized and damaged ones. If the dimensions of the tree allow and if you have enough patience, you can normalize the ovaries - removing some of them. As a result, there will be fewer fruits, but they will be larger and of better quality, and the tree will save its strength. The normalization of flowers is carried out during full blooming (although many gardeners are very sorry to destroy the apple blossom with their own hands), the normalization of the ovaries is carried out as early as possible, immediately after flowering. You can completely remove the flowers and ovaries on part of the inflorescences, you can leave the best and most developed in each inflorescence. In the apple tree, this is the central flower in the inflorescence.
When the crop is large, the branches may not withstand the load and break, especially old varieties with periodic fruiting suffer.
The best treatment is prevention, so the supports are placed in advance, while the fruits are still small. After harvesting, the supports are removed.
Watch a video on how to prune an apple tree as an adult:
Tips for proper anti-aging pruning of an old apple tree (with photo and video)
If a young tree is formed correctly, then for many years it will only need sanitary and supporting pruning - removing extra branches and limiting the size of the crown. However, sooner or later there comes a point when the tree begins to age.
The signal for rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is the reduction in the length of annual growths. For trees on vigorous rootstocks, the critical value is 15 cm. If the tree is mature and regularly bears fruit, it expends a huge amount of energy on fruiting, and growth is “financed according to the residual principle,” so the length of annual increments decreases. In an advanced case, young fruit formations no longer arise, and the old ones have exhausted their resources - you will be left without fruits, and an oppressed and weakened tree may die. The task of the gardener is to help the tree maintain an optimal balance between growth and fruiting.
Many trees try to “regain their lost youth” on their own with the help of spinning tops. If the tops are well located, you can form new branches from them, and gradually remove the old ones.
However, in most cases, the tree needs serious help. As usual, first they carry out sanitary pruning of old apple trees, then rejuvenating. To do this, the branches are shortened to the site where the length of the growth was full, and the bare and unproductive ones are also cut out. With a high probability, the tree will respond to such an intervention with the rapid growth of tops, especially near the cuts - sleeping buds will wake up. This is what they are trying to achieve - now it is possible to form new, young and strong branches from the strongest and most well-located tops. The rest of the tops, with the correct pruning of old apple trees, are removed, and the sooner the better. In case of doubt, you can pinch the growing top and decide its fate during spring pruning next year.
As you can see in the photo of pruning old apple trees, many large branches are removed during this work:
Therefore, it makes sense to stretch such rejuvenation for 2-3 seasons. You should not save on watering and top dressing, in addition, young growths should be carefully and regularly examined - a tasty morsel for various sucking and leaf-eating pests.
Sick trees with severe damage to the trunk and skeletal branches do not rejuvenate.
Another tip for pruning an old apple tree is to combine a rejuvenating crown shaping with a rejuvenating root pruning. To do this, they dig a trench 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide along the periphery of the crown and fill it with fertile soil and organic fertilizers, as well as regularly water it. As a result, many young, actively working roots are formed in this zone.
The task of restorative pruning is to restore the ability to bear fruit. For this, new fruit-bearing branches are brought up for several years, mainly by pruning for translation into horizontal branches, and then the old ones are removed.
Watch the video "Pruning old apple trees" to better understand how to care for such trees:
How to prune an old apple tree
What to do if you, along with the site, got an old tree that has not seen a pruner or a hacksaw for a long time or at all? How to prune an old apple tree to prolong its life?
You can leave everything as it is. In nature, trees without any pruning live to an advanced age. But still, pruning is a way to improve the health and longevity of a tree, as well as a way to give it a presentable appearance. In neglected orchards, many fruit trees look like a "nest" of closely spaced branches on a high trunk. Their crown is raised high so that light penetrates into the near-stem circles, and something else could be grown under the apple tree. Especially often such a picture can be seen in small areas.
Before pruning an old apple tree, you need to give an abandoned tree a decent look, and for this you must first remove all the "dangerous" branches. After that, proceed to sanitary pruning. Slowly, gradually cut off all the diseased and dead. Focus on the middle of the crown - there are usually a lot of dry branches hiding there. As a rule, in neglected old trees, sanitary pruning is large-scale, and upon its completion, amazing changes occur in the crown.
In the next step, to prune the old apple tree, you need to remove the extra branches. There is no need to rush here. It is better to pause, take your mind off the tree and do other things. Perhaps even postponing everything until the next season, this has its advantages. Sometimes it is important not to overdo it - perhaps you should make an exception to the rule for some specific branches - in order to subsequently strengthen a weak branch, direct pruning to translate the further growth of the branch in the right direction, leave a spinning top to grow a fruit-bearing branch from it. It is quite possible that pruning will have to be extended over two or three seasons (no more than a quarter of the branches are removed in one year). The decision will have to be made for each specific cut.
Therefore, it is better to clean off lichens from the trunk and skeletal branches. The easiest way to do this is after rain - they are easily scraped off with a thick mitten or a dull knife. In addition, when the old bark is removed before autumn whitewashing, lichens are automatically disposed of. In severe cases, spraying with a 10% solution of ferrous sulfate can be applied - this is a very high concentration that causes chemical burns. Therefore, such processing is carried out only when the tree is at rest, always on a calm day, not forgetting all the safety measures that are necessary when working with toxic substances.
A green or brick-colored coating, usually found on the north side of large branches or trunks, is unicellular algae. They are not dangerous and only indicate high humidity. Improving ventilation and thinning the canopy helps reduce algae. Again, removing the old bark before whitewashing solves this problem as well.
Different varieties of apple trees have their own pruning characteristics.
Varieties with weak branching and low awakening of the kidneys (Cinnamon striped, etc.). The branches are "bald", with weak branching, fruits are formed only in their upper part.
Pay attention to the photo - pruning of apple trees of such varieties is carried out medium or strong in order to enhance branching and reduce the number of dangerous forks with sharp corners:
Such varieties require more radical anti-aging pruning.
Antonovka ordinary in the photo 
Borovinka in the photo
Varieties with weak to moderate branching and good bud awakening(Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka and etc.). The periodicity of fruiting on kolchatka is characteristic. Stimulate the formation of overgrowing branches on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches.
Pepin saffron in the photo 
Melba in the photo
Varieties bearing fruit on fruit twigs (Pepin saffron, Melba and etc.). Growths are shortened to increase branching and form more overgrown branches.
Renet Simirenko in the photo 
Autumn striped in the photo
Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (Renet Simirenko, Autumn striped and etc.). Regular thinning is required.
Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks in most cases require minimal formative pruning, especially if the varieties themselves have moderate branching. In most cases, apple trees on dwarf rootstocks respond well to anti-aging pruning.
This video shows pruning apple trees of different varieties:
Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree (with video)
Recently fashionable columnar apple trees require proper pruning, not the same as that used for other species. Often, columnar apple trees do not need pruning at all, because usually these are undersized varieties. A feature of columnar apple trees is very short growth and the presence of annulus on all branches, including skeletal branches (if any), and even on the trunk!
In order to direct all the forces of the tree to fruiting, in the middle of summer, long growths of the current year are pinched. If this is not done, the apple trees lose their strict columnar appearance, overgrow with long skeletal branches and get something similar to a tree on a dwarf rootstock, only with a rarer crown. When the apical bud is damaged or removed, several strong shoots grow: if there is enough space, you can leave those that are well located. This option has a right to exist. But if the "column" was acquired for a different purpose, and there is not enough space, then you will have to choose one shoot and greatly shorten the rest.
Often, gardeners, acquiring a columnar apple tree, dream of a “stick” strewn with large bulk apples. Alas, the small size of the fruit is a varietal feature, pruning and top dressing will not make the fruit larger. On the other hand, breeders have taken care of compensation - apples are easy to pick, they have a rich aroma and dessert taste.
This video shows the pruning of columnar apple trees in the backyard:
In recent years, the apple tree has become a popular ornamental crop, and many varieties are commercially available, usually small-fruited, with varying overall tree appearance (or) color of flowers and leaves. Pruning decorative apple trees will need to be different, its nature depends on the shape of the crown. However, in any grafted forms, shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed decisively and immediately.
Nedzvetsky's apple tree in the photo 
Nedzwiecki's apple tree with bright raspberry flowers in the photo
Nedzwiecki's apple tree attracts not only with leaves with a purple tint of varying severity, but also with bright crimson flowers. The fruits of this species are quite large, and from the apple trees traditionally grown in gardens, they differ mainly in an unusual, dark, color. The formation of an apple tree of this species is exactly the same as the home apple tree we are used to. Similarly, they do with large-sized decorative varieties that have a classic crown shape.
The spherical shape of the Nedzwiecki apple tree in the photo
Spherical forms grafted on a tall trunk require minimal pruning. Remove all rootstock shoots, sanitary pruning if necessary and maintain the correct crown shape.
The now popular weeping apple trees will require a different approach. These are also grafted apple trees on a high trunk. In order for the "umbrella" to be thick and beautiful, regular pruning with the beautiful name "candelabra" is required. Look closely - weeping branches form an upward bend at the very top. There we cut off on the kidney directed upwards. Below this kidney should remain at least two or three. Thus, strong weeping shoots will grow from the remaining buds, and the "umbrella" will be strong and durable. In order not to deprive yourself of joy, you should not “stupefy” a tree every year. If you want to admire the decorative flowers and fruits of your apple trees, you will have to cut the crown in parts.
Theoretically, a trimmed hedge can be made from an apple tree, but why? Indeed, in this case, you will have to forget about flowers and fruits.
Young apple trees without pruning can grow incorrectly, thicken and produce small yields. The rules for pruning young trees are slightly different from those for mature trees. To achieve success, you must strictly follow the recommendations and pruning according to a certain pattern.
Why you need to prune apple trees
Pruning an apple tree is not the easiest thing to do, but it must be done. In addition to forming a beautiful appearance of the tree, this procedure affects the quantity and quality of the crop.
For young apple trees, pruning is especially important. Not done in a timely manner, it leads to overload and breakage of branches, a decrease in the quality of the fruit and the winter hardiness of the tree.
Competent and timely pruning:
- helps to limit the height of the tree,
- allows you to form a compact crown,
- improves its illumination and ventilation.
This reduces the likelihood of damage by pests and diseases. In addition, it must be borne in mind that, by their nature, many apple trees are prone to periodic fruiting, and regular pruning “forces” them to produce large yields every year.
Pruned young apple trees to form a crown, and then maintain the resulting shape with thinning and sanitary pruning
Although trees of any age are subject to pruning, certain rules must be taken into account for young apple trees, which we will consider.
When to prune
There is no single rule about the timing of pruning apple trees. Some gardeners, relying on their own experience, argue that others call autumn, others call summer, and some even prune in winter.
Based on the life processes taking place in the tree, the most suitable time can still be considered early spring, until the buds open. For different regions, this period falls on different times: from March to May. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, so the tree will not lose excess juices, the sections will have time to dry. At the same time, soon after pruning, the movement of nutrients and moisture will begin, which will contribute to the rapid healing of wounds.
Whenever you prune, remember that it is better to do it during the dormant period of the tree and in no case during severe frosts, at -8 ... -10 o C).
Features of the formation of the crown of a young apple tree
It is necessary to obtain an easy-to-handle, compact crown, well lit and aerated. The process begins immediately after landing.
Pruning a one- and two-year-old tree
Some gardeners do not recommend pruning a seedling in the first year after planting. This recommendation is explained by the fact that the seedling was already badly damaged when dug up in the nursery, and additional pruning increases the shock. On the other hand, many believe that pruning the ground part of the seedling can reduce the load on the root system.
Starting from the first year, a young tree must be formed by choosing the right skeletal branches.
In general, you can listen to any of these recommendations: there will be nothing wrong if you start forming a tree from the second year after planting. The formation of an apple tree can be carried out according to various schemes, but the most common is sparse-tiered, which is formed within 3–4 years from the moment of planting.
Usually, an annual tree does not have well-developed side branches, therefore, at the first pruning, it is necessary to remove all side branches at a level of 1 m from the ground, wait for new side shoots to appear and start forming a crown from them. A young tree may have various defects that are corrected by primary pruning.
Depending on the defects and the degree of development of the seedling, various pruning techniques should be used.
For well-branched seedlings, another technique should be used - shorten all side branches at a height of 70 cm from the soil level. To do this, you can install a horizontal rail at a level of 70 cm from the soil and cut off all the ends of the side branches located above the rail. If there are strong branches above this level, remove those that grow at an acute angle to the trunk. If this is not done, the branches may break under the weight of the crop. In general, incorrectly performed pruning can lead to breaking the trunk.
If you want to save improperly growing shoots, their position must be corrected with spacers or stretch marks. This procedure is performed when the shoots are as flexible as possible, usually in summer. Shoots growing at an angle of about 90 degrees should be shortened to 3-5 buds. Such branches subsequently provide the tree with a strong crown.
An apple tree with branches growing horizontally begins to bear fruit earlier. If the growth is too fast, the conductor should be shortened, while observing the subordination of the branches: the height of the leading shoot should be 20–30 cm higher than the length of the side shoots. If the central shoot is damaged, it should be replaced with the most developed side branch. To make this branch become vertical, it is tied to the leading shoot, and when the branch becomes vertical, the central shoot is removed.
In two-year-old apple trees, you can form the basis of a future crown
In the second year of life, an apple tree usually already has several side branches, so the principles of pruning it differ from pruning an annual tree. For proper pruning, 4–5 of the most developed branches are selected, extending at a wide angle from the trunk and evenly spaced on the trunk. These branches will be the main ones in the future crown, they form the first tier. The rest of the branches are pruned. The central branch with well-developed buds, growing vertically, is chosen as a conductor. The leader should be 5-6 buds higher than other branches.
The selected skeletal branches should be located close to each other in height (with a difference of up to 10 cm) and form the first tier. The lower of these branches should be the longest (30–35 cm), the upper ones should be shortened a little to immediately ensure subordination. Those branches that grow too fast and overtake the main ones in length should be removed.
Thus, from the second year of the tree's life, the foundation of the crown is laid (if you planted a 2-year-old seedling, then the skeleton is laid at the first pruning).
Video: pruning a young apple tree on video
Pruning apple trees 3–5 years old
Starting from the third year, for 3-4 years, do not prune young trees too intensively. Excessive pruning can delay fruiting. Of course, you need to cut diseased and broken branches to the ground.
In addition, you need to gradually add new tiers of skeletal branches. The second tier is laid 50–55 cm above the lower one (laid on a two-year-old apple tree), the subsequent ones - at great distances. The intervals between branches in a tier should be 30–40 cm. Branches must not be allowed to cross!
If the conductor is growing very actively, its growth should be restrained a little by shortening so that the upper tiers are not much higher than the previous ones.
Video: different possibilities for forming the crown of apple trees
Pruning young apple trees for beginners
Pruning may seem like a daunting task for inexperienced gardeners, but knowledge and application of theoretical rules, frequent practice will help you quickly acquire the necessary skills.
The main thing is not to be afraid to spoil something - only those who do nothing do not make mistakes. The golden rule for a beginner should be “better undercut than overcut”. If in doubt whether it is worth cutting off a branch, it is better to leave it until the next time and consult with more experienced colleagues.
Basic pruning techniques
Extra branches are cut "on the ring" - that is, along the annular influx, which is at the base of each branch. In this influx are cells that are able to multiply rapidly and close the wound. If you make a cut below the influx, the wound will heal for a very long time and will become the "gateway" of various infections. If you cut above the influx, you get a stump, which will then dry and expose the bark. If necessary, you can leave a stump 10-15 cm long to tie other branches to it, however, such stumps should remain no longer than a year. At the next pruning, they are still cut into a ring.
Depending on the branch angle, the cut is made directly along the annular influx, or along a line that bisects the angle between the trunk line and the perpendicular to the branch to be removed
Sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm should be immediately covered with putty paste or garden pitch.
When forming the crown of a young tree, some branches are not cut out, but shortened. In this case, a cut is made either on the internal or on the external kidney. The buds on the shoots are staggered: one "looks" at the trunk, and the next - out. Trimming to the outer bud means that the cut is made near the bud that is facing outward. How and in what cases is it done? If the crown needs thinning and expansion of the diameter, then the thickening branches are cut out, and a part is shortened with a cut to the outer kidney.
A cut to the inner or outer kidney allows you to correct crown defects
If the crown is rare and weak, with overgrown lower branches, then the cut is made on the inner kidney.
To ensure the correct cut, you need to start a sharpened garden knife on the opposite side of the kidney, 2–3 mm lower, cut the branch at an angle of 45 ° so that the knife comes out 2–3 mm above the kidney. It is advisable to support the branch from below with your left hand and cut in one quick movement. It is very important that the tissue at the cut point is not swung. If this happens, you need to immediately clean the cut with a knife.
In order for the left kidney to develop normally, the cut must be made at an angle of 2–3 mm above the kidney.
It is easy for a beginner to get confused in the diverse recommendations for pruning young apple trees. In order to think less about the rules, you can remember one and only thing - the “magic three”.
When planting an apple tree seedling, cut it so that only 3 growth buds remain. Of these, the same branches will be obtained over the summer.
The following spring, the pruning procedure is repeated, leaving only 3 growth buds for each of the 3 branches. By the end of the second summer of life, the apple tree has 9 branches.
The same pruning is repeated in the third year and completes the formation of the crown. As a result, the apple tree has 27 identical branches, which form a symmetrical even bush with a height of no more than 3–3.5 m. In case of damage by frost or pests, such a crown is easily restored.
Pinching is done in summer to improve branching.
Subsequent care consists in leaving only 1 growth bud on each branch. At the same time, fruit buds develop perfectly and the apple tree begins to bear fruit earlier than its peers, gives quite large yields.
In addition to the main pruning, all side branches should be pinched during the summer season so that the crown does not thicken. Good warming of the crown contributes to the good growth of the tree.
Pruning a young tree is a guarantee of health and good fruiting in the future. It is necessary to choose the main branches and conductor correctly, trim in a timely manner and follow the rules. For beginners, it is recommended to use the simplest way to form a young apple tree - the “magic three” rule.
