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How to lay tiles on the wall: do-it-yourself tiles with photo instructions. Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles: technology for performing work How to glue tiles on old tiles

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing rooms with special operating conditions. Such cladding is not afraid of exposure to high humidity, temperature extremes, abrasion load, in itself is very attractive in appearance, easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms - it’s better not to find it. And what is even more important - it is quite possible to cope with the process of laying it yourself.

Why does it make sense to try to do the cladding with your own hands? It’s just that even if the laying surfaces are perfectly even, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of the master as the material itself costs, and this is even at best. Such expenses can be completely avoided. By getting to know our instruction article how to lay tiles on a wall, the reader will have a clear understanding of all stages of work, from surface preparation and tile selection - to grouting. And for sure he will be convinced that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such a finish.

Preliminary steps

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on an unprepared wall for this. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that a layer of ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the "ugliness" of the surface, and as a result you will get a straight beautiful wall. They are sorely mistaken!

What does the preparation process include?

• It is imperative to get rid of the old wall decoration. Will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Or even their small fragments are completely excluded. If previously there was a tile on the wall, then after its dismantling, all sagging and drops of hardened glue should be removed.

• Be sure to check the quality of the plaster layer, if any. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area, to identify places of instability, which are also subject to removal. And most often it happens that if an exfoliating area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

• In no case is it ignored if traces of their biological damage are found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then you will have to carry out a preliminary “treatment” of the wall

• There should be no gaps or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate repair work is carried out to ensure their high-quality sealing.

• The wall must be flat, that is, it must be a plane, and not a twisted, littered, protruding or concave surface. On the aligned walls, the tiles fit without problems. Yes, there are methods for leveling walls precisely by installing ceramic cladding. But, believe me, not even all experienced craftsmen like to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer has a "debut", but there is nothing to even think about it. It will be much easier to align - and the finish will definitely turn out to be of high quality.

There are many ways to level, and some of them, for example, using moisture-resistant drywall or gypsum fiber plates - are not so complicated and do not require much time.

Prices for moisture resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

How to independently align the walls for decoration?

Do not be afraid of this task in advance. There are many technologies available that are quickly mastered even by beginners. Moreover, the laying of tiles does not require the ideal smoothness of the surface - the correctness of the geometry is enough. are discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.

• Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, so you should also think about reliable waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies, of course, to the floor, but it also makes sense to provide for walls waterproofed"belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is desirable to reinforce with waterproofing sections of the passage through the walls of water and sewer pipes, the area around water outlets.

And in frankly “wet” areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to perform waterproofing solid. Approximate dimensional standards for these sections are shown in the illustration:

• Finally, the wall must be carefully primed with a deep penetrating compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface, eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to harden in optimal conditions. Achieve the best adhesion performance. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never become superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting for the first layer to dry completely. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after the completion of the preparatory work. But if for some reason there is a significant time gap between this stage and finishing, then it would be desirable to apply the primer again - a day before the start of the installation of the tile. So a quality result will be guaranteed.

Wall primer prices

wall primer

Drawing up a project and choosing the necessary tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will focus only on some practical aspects.

Planning the location of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners must already imagine what they want to see in the end. Surely familiar with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, they just have to “fit” the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their premises.

Here "by eye" should not be relied upon. The best option is to draw up a graphic diagram for each of the walls separately. Especially if it is not supposed to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or with division into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites that allow you to optimally place tiles on walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own or in a graphic editor, or simply over paper diagrams.

• In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will fall on the opposite side of the wall. Naturally, in this case, the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately figure out which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area accurately. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the eye of the incoming, such an arrangement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such an arrangement to start from the center of the wall - AThenfrom it is laid to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the alignment seems to be optimal when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a wiring to the sides with, again, symmetrical trimming along the edges.

Undercut edges are easy to hide by laying solid tiles from a corner on an adjacent wall. If two cut edges converge in the inner corner, then this can also be solved by grinding one of them. On the outer corners, a decorative corner copes well with this task. More details will be discussed later.

• They also show the necessary "creativity" when planning vertical rows. So, the laying does not look particularly advantageous, which under the ceiling will end in a narrow section. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or stretch ceiling.

But it is quite possible to start a narrow section first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will become completely invisible. visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. To be more precise, then this bottom row is generally recommended to be laid out last, so no problems with precise trimming are foreseen. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. These can be features of the design project (for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the rim by 20÷30 mm. This will not violate the aesthetics of the installation, and will bring the vulnerable seam out of the most “wet” area.

• When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let this not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on a large wall, the difference is considerable.

Excessively thick seams when laying on the wall are most often not required. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting the joints with a fugue, the visual effect of the thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will appear wider.

• It is clear that when drawing up schemes, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements. If a fully-fledged plan for each of the walls is constantly at hand, then there is much less chance of making a mistake during the laying process.

Some nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

With tiles designed for walls, it is much easier than with floor tiles. The indicators of its strength, abrasive resistance, roughness, etc. fade into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate issue. But some important points still need to be emphasized.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

• There is a wide variety of formats available for sale. But you should not immediately chase large tiles. Firstly, it does not look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it, a lot of waste can remain, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires a certain amount of experience, and a novice master may not be able to cope with the task - any mistake will be in sight.

If the first independent laying of tiles is ahead, then it is better to proceed from its average dimensions, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm along the long side.

• should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
• If wall cladding is planned in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for a material marked with a snowflake pictogram - it is not afraid of freezing.
• Without fail, all purchased packs of tiles of the same type are checked for batch matching. The fact is that the same article, but released in different shifts, may slightly differ in tone of color. Visually in the store, this is most often not noticed. But after laying on the surface, even a small difference can spoil the overall look.

• Of course, they try to purchase tiles of the highest grade possible. Even at the factories, products are sorted, and products with shape distortions go on sale as second- or even third-rate. With them, you can be exhausted when laying.
• Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions of the finished product closer to the declared standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production does not yet allow achieving a unique match in the size of all tiles without exception. On the packaging of the tile, its caliber can be indicated - an alphabetic or numerical designation, and a plate with its decoding can be attached.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to her, since unjustified savings can lead to unsuccessful finishing, and in eventually the total costs will be clearly “in the red”.

• In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to acquire the missing quantity - the desired batch may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If a diagonal layout is assumed, then the stock can be increased to 15% - there will be more waste in any way. But we note right away that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal mounting without a good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
• Feel free to ask the store to check all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged during transportation. Yes, and explicit marriage sometimes comes across.

• Even first-class tiles of the same batch and the most accurate caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for facing the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - push it "to the periphery". And the one with the most significant size distortions or with minor defects should already be used for cutting to fill sections along the corners or the floor.
• The number of tiles is usually calculated by the piece. This can be done if a qualitative scheme is drawn up. And even more so, you will have to do this when you plan to use several varieties to create a special decorative interior.

But in the case when it is supposed to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There it will be necessary to indicate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bfinishing, the dimensions of the tile and the width of the tile joint. Reserve 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the layout principle.

Imagine a repair procedure that requires complete dismantling of existing finishing structures. Even an experienced master will shudder from such a volume of work, not to mention a simple layman - only a week or two of continuous work can be spent on eliminating old materials.

Therefore, when renovating a kitchen or bathroom, the question always becomes - is it possible to lay tiles on tiles, or will you have to be content with the traditional method of resolving the issue.

The advantages of this method are obvious - it is much easier to lay the material on a ready-made flat surface, and at the same time you do not have to pollute the house with a lot of dust and ceramic fragments.

However, it is necessary to remember about the disadvantages - you can only lay tiles on a very durable surface, not subject to cracking and capable of withstanding increased loads, otherwise after a while it will begin to collapse.

When working with tiles that you are going to lay on the floor, there are much fewer problems than with a finishing agent that is designed to organize the surface of the walls.

The reason for this is quite simple - the wall tile is also affected by gravity, as a result of which it pulls itself down on its own. It is possible to put an additional layer of material, covering the old plane with it, however, it is necessary to approach this issue with the utmost care and conduct thorough preparation.

Such a solution is most often used for the bathroom and kitchen - that is, those rooms where ceramic cladding is common, resistant to moisture and high temperatures.

Checking the old coating

First of all, you need to understand whether the builders followed the technology when they laid the old tiles - for this it is better to take the smallest steel hammer and tap the entire surface with it, without missing a single square. If there are cavities inside, then the strength of the coating will be broken - this will be displayed in a ringing echo that will come from under the ceramic layer.

As a working tool, you can also take a special hammer equipped with a copper tip - it has the best acoustic properties, which are important in this case. If there are small chips or open seams and ends, try to understand on what basis the tile was laid.

The best option is a building mixture consisting of synthetic and mineral components - laying tiles using such a tool is recommended by most professionals.

Synthetic mixtures hold tiles made of materials such as:

• ceramics;
• tile;
• porcelain stoneware;
• composite ceramics.

Preparing for the second layer of tiles

Now it is necessary to provide the necessary adhesion properties, because the finishing tiles in the bathroom often have a smooth glossy surface that is not able to properly hold the surface layer of a large mass.

To do this, remove the top layer using a grinder or grinder with a special brush consisting of steel wire. In addition, the old surface can also be treated with an abrasive disc, creating cross-cuts on it, which increase the adhesion efficiency of the adhesive composition.

As a basis that needs to be laid under a new material, it is better to use a concrete contact composition containing various synthetic components that increase the strength of the connection. It is worth adding acicular quartz to it, which replaces sand if it is necessary to create especially strong concrete structures.

Applying tiles to the wall

At the beginning of work, the seams should be additionally cleaned with a chisel in order to improve their filling with building mixture. Using a trowel or spatula, we put the concrete contact on the old tile, not forgetting to level it to achieve the maximum quality of the created surface.

The material consumption should be about 300 grams per square meter - this means that it should not be applied in a very thick layer.

If such a recommendation is not followed, the strength of the finish will be called into question. If you work in the bathroom or kitchen, and not in the utility room, then the floor and furniture should be covered with plastic wrap - otherwise, ugly pink and gray spots will appear on all interior items and structures that are almost impossible to wash.

After 5-7 hours, glue is applied over the concrete contact - it is best to select the most durable synthetic modification. It is worth remembering that, unlike the base, the glue hardens almost instantly, so further work is carried out in small parts of 1-2 square meters.

The tile must be pressed with force to the surface and then released, checking the strength of its connection - in this way the entire treated area is laid out. While the glue has not yet hardened, you can correct the bumps and adjust the depth - for this you should use a rubber mallet.

We must not forget that between the squares there should be a gap of 1-5 mm for expansion with temperature changes.

floor laying

Features of the flooring

Unlike walls, tiles placed on the floor are not affected by gravity. However, another difficulty arises here - passing people, installed furniture and various devices, as well as transported equipment, press on it daily. Therefore, floor tiles must be checked no less carefully than wall tiles - a similar method with a hammer is used for this.

In addition, you can find a heavy box or object with a flat base - you need to drag it all over the floor and make sure that the tiles located on it do not fall in even a few millimeters. However, the latter method is unlikely to be applicable for a bathroom with its limited space.

After you have checked the old tiles, you can start work, generally following all the recommendations described for the walls. However, the floor will require the use of a mineral mixture with a small amount of synthetic additives - it will provide greater elasticity and the ability to withstand significant temperature fluctuations.

In addition, the old surface can not be processed so intensively - it will be enough to walk on it with a metal brush. Before laying the adhesive on the floor, it is worth moistening the base so that it is better connected to it - this is not required only when using ready-made solutions sold in large buckets.

street work

A rather interesting question is whether it is possible to do this if you are laying paving slabs to create outdoor structures - paths, playgrounds, terraces. The answer to it is much easier to find - you just need to check the quality of the fit of the blocks and try to get one of them using a solid, durable knife or mount.

If paving slabs can be reached with considerable effort, then it is laid very firmly and tightly - otherwise it will move under the mass of the new surface, violating its integrity.

The process begins with a new cushion of loose soil, gravel and sand falling asleep on top of the material - each of these layers must be compacted individually. On top you need to lay paving slabs, to increase the strength of which you should use a small vibrating machine or a mallet with a large striker.

M.U.O (g.N)

We are thinking of starting repairs in the bathroom (cosmetics) and in order not to breed dirt, put tiles on top of the old tiles. Is this normal or don't they?

It is difficult to unequivocally answer the question: is it possible to lay tiles on old tiles. It is important to consider many nuances here. But in principle, problems should not arise if the old surface is void-free and does not play.
Evaluation of the situation: "for" and "against"

From a theoretical point of view, everything is possible, but how practical and expedient such a solution is, this is the other side of the coin. First, it is worth considering that laying a new tile is possible only if the old coating meets certain requirements.

Before laying a new tile on top of the old one, make sure the base is strong.

• There should be no voids under the tile, they are determined by tapping;
• The tile itself must be distinguished by integrity. If there are cracks or chipped areas on individual tiles, and all the others are normal, it is better to carry out a partial repair;
• Often, the coating in old buildings does not differ in an even horizontal line, respectively, this will affect the quality and durability of the new one. For a tile, an allowable difference is set: 4 mm per 2 m of a lath laid on the surface;
• Another disadvantage (only in rare cases this is a plus) is that the height of the floor or the thickness of the walls will increase. This must be taken into account, especially if flooring is to be laid in the bathroom or in the toilet, where the floor level, according to standards, should be lower than in the corridor.

Laying tiles on top of the old hides the volume of the room

• If the old coating, as they say, is laid out in good faith and in itself can be a solid foundation for a new one, then the tile-on-tile option can be considered. In addition, this will help to avoid time-consuming and dusty dismantling, which will certainly entail additional work on waterproofing, leveling the floor with a screed and removing construction debris.

Features of surface preparation

If the issue is resolved in favor of an unequivocal “for”, you can proceed to the preparatory stage. It consists in improving the adhesion of the adhesive to the old tiles.

• On the old coating, notches are made with a grinder or the glazed layer is completely removed. If this is not done, the smooth glaze will repel the glue. It is worth saying that other types of tiles do not differ in sufficient porosity.
• The next step will be to cover the surface with a specially designed mixture - "concrete contact". It is produced by many manufacturers and is an acrylic-based primer, which includes cement, sand and fillers. It is designed for hard-to-absorb surfaces to increase their grip.

Thoroughly prepare the surface before laying new tiles

• Before applying the composition to the tile, it is necessary to remove the remnants of debris, dust and degrease it. From "Betonokontakt" it is important to close pipes, taps with polyethylene. Especially if they are located in a prominent place, since the dried composition is practically not removed from the surface.
• The primer is applied with a roller or brush. Hands must be protected with rubber gloves. After processing, the surface of the tile should become rough like a sheet of coarse-grained sandpaper.
• The prepared base is left to dry completely, usually it takes 3-5 hours.
• If there are irregularities and the level of the walls or floor leaves much to be desired, you will also have to spend time on plastering or screeding and subsequent primer.
• Only after careful preparation can work on laying a new coating begin.

What glue can be used

When choosing an adhesive, it is recommended to pay attention to mixtures designed for problematic and critical substrates or increased fixation. When the material is chosen correctly, you can follow the standard tile laying pattern depending on the surface.

Scheme: laying tiles on an old tile

Laying tiles on old tiles

The process of laying tiles on walls or floors is not fundamentally different. The main feature lies in the technology of preparing the base and several nuances:

• The layout of the new tile must be done in such a way that its seams do not coincide with the old ones;
• Only the base (wall or floor) is lubricated with an adhesive solution;
• The height of the spatula teeth may be different, it is better to use the one recommended by the adhesive manufacturer on the package;
• Many defects appear due to the usual non-compliance with evenness of laying, the level must be carefully monitored.

How to lay new tiles on old tiles: video

New tile on top of the old: photo

Sometimes old tiles are firmly glued to the floor or walls, so that their dismantling is very difficult. Is it worth gluing tiles on tiles, when is it possible to do so, and when not? The article contains all the necessary information on this issue.

Why tile on tile

This method of installing tiles is not a popular solution, and opinions differ about this method. There are several reasons why installing a new tile on an old one is preferable:

1. Removing old tiles is hard work. Sometimes the coating is attached to the base so firmly that it cannot be removed without special tools. Sometimes you have to call special services, which costs a pretty penny. In addition, a large amount of construction debris and dust is formed, which means a waste of energy on cleaning the premises. We will have to free all the nearest premises from furniture, since dusting will be significant, and polyethylene coatings will not save.
2. Going from the opposite, the installation of tiles on tiles will be much easier, and a lot of time will be saved.
3. When demolishing the old coating, fragments of the cement-sand screed may break off. You will have to refill it and wait for the solution to harden.
4. With this method, the consumption of materials is noticeably reduced: it is not necessary to level the surface. The preparation time is also reduced.

Is it worth installing a tile based on these reasons? Do not hurry. Other factors must also be taken into account.

Cons of the method

With some convenience of such installation, negative consequences are inevitable. What to expect from tile-to-tile fixing:

1. Hiding precious centimeters, which will be especially noticeable in small rooms such as a bathroom. Old tiles and an additional layer of glue reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room if the installation is done on the wall. If the tile is placed on the floor, then its level will rise noticeably - you will probably have to increase the height of the threshold, respectively, reshape the door leaf.
2. Too thick coating looks unaesthetic.
3. If there were defects on the old masonry, then there is a risk of damage to the new coating in the same places. The cladding will collapse due to the increased load if there were cracks and voids on the old tile.
4. In order for the adhesion of the surface to the adhesive to be strong, porous and rough materials are selected. Ceramic tiles do not meet these requirements, respectively, the new coating is not attached very securely.
5. Additional processing of the old tile will be required. It differs from standard works. Sometimes such preparation takes no less time and effort than dismantling the old tile.

When such an installation is categorically inappropriate

There are unequivocal contraindications for attaching a new tile to an old one. These include the following cases:

1. The old tile keeps badly and has defects.
2. A new layer of tile on the floor will exceed the threshold level. In the bathroom, it is recommended to make the floor 2-3 cm lower than in the rest of the house, or install a high threshold. This reduces the risk of water entering the room in the event of a leak.
3. The base is composed of separate and not large enough elements, and the entire load will fall on the bonding coating between the old tile and the base. This is fraught with rapid damage to the new tile. The bearing function can only be performed by a monolithic tile coating.
4. The surface has a large slope and needs to be leveled.

Advice! If you are concerned about at least one point that warns against installing an old tile on a new one, then it is better to abandon this idea. Indeed, in case of failure, you will have to remove two layers of tiles and spend money on the third option.

How to stick

The preparation of the base in the form of an old tile is carried out in a special way. The quality of the cladding directly depends on the choice of adhesive composition. Ordinary cement mixtures are also suitable for the floor. For walls, dense and elastic compositions are selected.

Quick-drying mixes are a good choice, as they will prevent the coating from slipping. The adhesive must have high adhesion and provide a strong base. On sale there are special adhesive compositions for mounting tiles on difficult surfaces, for example, Ceresit, Ivsil Profit.

Important! If you put a tile on a too thick layer of glue, the polymerization will take much longer, respectively, the risk of delamination of the masonry and slipping of the top coating will increase.

Tile installation: instructions

How to stick ceramic tiles so that the cladding lasts for many years? First you need to do the preparatory steps:

1. Inspect the old coating to see how firmly it is connected to the wall or floor.
2. Carefully examine the tile for chips, cracks and other defects. Even 10-15% of the damaged coating is already a reason for dismantling. If the main part of the tile is strong, and there are damages in 2-3 places, then you can take a chance and install a new tile on top of the old one.
3. If the old coating looks good, you need to test it: tap it with a wooden mallet. If cracks and rattling appear, the old lining must be removed.
4. The seams between the tiles should also not stagger and fall out.

The adhesive adheres well to the porous surface, penetrating into its structure. The tile, especially glossy, has a minimal ability to absorb moisture, that is, it has few pores. To facilitate adhesion, you need to clean the surface: use a grinder to make notches on the tile or remove the glossy layer completely. The bottom of the tile is water-absorbing. It needs to be at least 60% open. But this method is time consuming and dirty.

There is another way to make the surface rough: concrete-contact primer. It adheres well to the top layer of tiles and serves as a reliable base for tile adhesive.

1. The surface must be cleaned of dirt and grease and wiped dry, otherwise the glue simply will not work.
2. Cover fallen or unstable tiles with cement mortar so that the surface is on the same level. Wait for drying.
3. Apply the primer with a roller or brush. Setting time - 2-4 hours.
4. If the method is chosen with the removal of the upper part of the tile, then when working with the grinder, it is necessary to wear safety glasses.
5. Apply the tile adhesive to the dry primer with a notched trowel.
6. Lay the tiles in the usual way.
7. Due to the low absorbency, the drying time of the glue will be longer.
8. Grout with special compounds with a rubber spatula.
9. Let the glue dry completely. Time of final polymerization - 3-4 days after installation.

Can you glue tiles on tiles? In conclusion, it is worth noting that this method of installation is sometimes preferable. But you should carefully inspect the old tile for defects, as well as carry out all the preparatory and basic work strictly according to the instructions.

A major bathroom renovation often begins with the removal of old tiles and the installation of new ones. Ceramic tiles are a versatile finishing material suitable for most rooms, they look aesthetically pleasing, are practical to maintain, and are durable. It is often laid when repairing a bathroom, kitchen, corridors, rooms with high humidity.

Is it possible to lay tiles on tiles on the floor, walls, how to do it right? We will tell you how to perform such work in order to obtain the desired long-lasting effect.

Laying tiles on top of the old - the pros and cons

One of the first works planned during the renovation of the bathroom and toilet is the replacement of tiles. A well-laid tile, even if it is several years old, sticks strongly to the wall and floor. You can save on unnecessary work and costs associated with removing old tiles. It should be borne in mind - if you remove the old tile, which usually leaves quite easily, you must also remove the layer of old glue. This is a rather time-consuming task, many specialists want to get quite large sums for such work. An economical solution is to place the new tile on top of the old one.

Placing a new tile on an old one takes less time and work, but involves additional risks:

1. even if everything goes smoothly, there is always a chance that the old wall covering will not hold the new one;
2. the area of ​​the room is reduced;
3. it becomes necessary to increase the length of the pipes protruding from the walls, sometimes even replacing the bath if it fits perfectly to the wall surface.

Therefore, it is worth considering, it may be better to spend more time and money by removing the old layer. If, however, it is necessary to reduce costs, it is necessary to carefully check whether the old coating adheres well to the wall. If you lay a tile on an unstable surface, it will begin to fall off after a short period of time.

Work order

The laying process includes certain preparatory work. The order of work is as follows:

1. Careful study of the surface, tapping, removal of the flaking layer.
2. Surface preparation:
   • grinding, notching;
   • cleaning from grease, dirt;
   • primer.
3. Laying new tiles.
4. Grout.

Let's consider each stage in more detail.

Examination of the old layer

It is necessary to check whether all the tiles are firmly attached to the wall. You need to make sure that each tile is firmly glued to the wall, tapping each one. Use a wooden mallet or a wooden hammer handle, tapping old tiles, listening to the sound. In those places where there is no tile adhesive, a characteristic dull sound is heard.

All plates that make dull noises must be removed. You should also remove all tiles that begin to move away from the surface. If you stick a new one on it, there is a high risk that it will quickly fall off along with the old one.

The resulting gaps are filled with plaster, level the surface level. If a large number of tiles create a dull noise, placing a new layer on them is not recommended, it may fall off at any time.

Surface preparation

Before work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. Bathrooms are often tiled with a smooth surface. Rough ceramics are used much less often, used on external surfaces - stairs, terraces. Therefore, the surface must be rubbed, various scratches, grooves can be applied to completely get rid of the glassy, ​​smooth surface. This will increase adhesion. For work you will need:

• sandpaper,
• angle grinder or drill with a rubber disc.

If you skip this stage of work, the glue will not be able to tightly contact the base, the new coating will quickly fall off the wall.

Similar procedures must be performed on the floor. Before gluing a new layer, the old surface must be thoroughly washed. It is necessary to completely remove grease stains, dirt, which reduce the adhesion of the base. Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully degrease the surface of the old tile, remove the stone that collects around taps and mixers. For work you will need:

• sponge,
• warm water mixed with laundry detergent or dishwashing liquid.

Rinse the surface with clean water, then dry thoroughly. Large defects, irregularities must be puttied.

Sanded and washed plates must be primed. It is worth buying a more expensive, high quality primer with additional particles of fine aggregate. The primer should be enriched with an acrylic resin aggregate providing excellent adhesion, surface roughness. This will create an acceptable roughness of the wall surface, which directly increases the strength of the connection of the coating elements.

The primer is applied with a roller or brush. It is advisable to use a roller, it is faster and easier to apply a uniform layer of primer. Before surface treatment, it is necessary to thoroughly mix the primer in the container to a homogeneous consistency. After applying the primer coat, wait 24 hours.

Laying

From this point on, laying a new layer does not differ much from the traditional method of gluing on a concrete base and plastered walls.

To complete the work you will need:

• notched trowel with teeth about 5-8 mm;
• rubber mallet;
• silicone for sealing the edges of tiles and bathrooms, sinks;
• crosses to maintain equal distance between the individual plates.

What is the best tile adhesive?

To apply new tiles, you will need a high adhesion epoxy adhesive (Ceresit CU 22) or a flexible adhesive (CM 17 "Super Flexible"). If we choose ordinary cement mortar, this will allow us to reduce costs. However, this will come at the cost of worse parameters (for example, the lack of water resistance, which excludes the installation of a shower cabin in the bathroom). Other recommended adhesives are:

• Atlas Plus White (for stone tiles),
• Atlas Plus Mega (for large format),
• Atlas Progres Mega White (for polished ceramics),
• Atlas Plus (for other tiles).

It is necessary to lay ceramic tiles at a temperature of + 5 to + 25 ° С.

To glue the tile, there is no need to wet it, you just need to vacuum it well, completely removing the dust accumulated on the surface. It is not necessary to apply a layer of glue on the entire surface of the plate, this prevents the tiles from being pressed well against the wall. Small grooves in the applied adhesive allow excess adhesive to spread under the plate without leakage to the outside.

An elastic adhesive for ceramic tiles with increased strength should be used, it is applied to the primed surface in 2 stages:

1. First, glue is applied over the entire surface.
2. Then, using a notched trowel, give a suitable thickness to the adhesive base.

The thickness of the adhesive must not exceed the limit values ​​indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. To improve adhesion, glue can also be spread on top of the ceramic plate.

An important principle is never to lay a new tile so that it completely matches the old one. If plates of the same size are used as the old ones, a strip should be made at the bottom, for example, from decor, in order to shift the seams, to exclude their coincidence. With the help of decorative strips, you can shift the row between the new and old by 3-5 centimeters.

If you decide to change the laying pattern, you can lay a new layer diagonally.

To achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to level the bottom layer. Using the spacers of the crosses, we lay the next strip of tiles.

Tiles on the walls are recommended to be laid from the bottom up, but this is not a mandatory rule. This rule should be followed if there is no experience. It is especially important to dilute the adhesive with a suitable consistency, which prevents gluing too fast or, on the contrary, too slow, with a displacement of the floating tile.

After laying, you need to wait 24 hours.

Grout

Grouting can be started on the second day after laying the tiles. Clean all grooves thoroughly with a damp cloth, then grout.

It is necessary to clean the surface around the joints as soon as possible before the grout hardens. This is especially important when the tile has a rough surface, its subsequent cleaning is laborious and requires the use of additional tools (wire brush). Rough, sharp tools should not be used on a smooth tile, so as not to scratch it.

After approximately 48 hours, it is necessary to carefully check whether all the tiles are firmly adhered to the wall, for example, by tapping, pressing on them with your hand. If one of the plates starts to come off the surface, you need to remove a few adjoining fragments to see what is the cause before re-gluing it.

Conclusion

Replacing tiles in the bathroom, kitchen is associated with dust, noise, and a pile of construction debris. This takes a lot of time, can lead to deeper damage to the walls. Such work is especially difficult to perform in the corners, along the edges of walls, floors. You can avoid problems by laying a new layer of ceramic on top of the old one. This will not significantly reduce the room, because instead of a thick layer of cement mortar, modern adhesives are used, which are highly elastic. Already a 3-4 mm layer of mortar will be able to hold a heavy plate. Thanks to new technologies, laying tiles is much easier and cleaner today than a few years ago.

A wide range of offers on the market and new trends in interior design often make you want to change the finish of the bathroom or backsplash in the kitchen. If the old layer of tiles is held firmly, with proper preparation of the base and the choice of the appropriate primer, the adhesive can be safely laid on a new one, completely changing the look of the wall. Laying a new tile on an old one helps save time, money, and avoid an abundance of debris, noise, and inconvenience created during repairs.