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How to glue foam tiles to the ceiling. Different ways to glue ceiling tiles

1 How to glue ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles- This is a material for finishing ceilings, which is made from extruded polystyrene (polystyrene). This is a popular finishing material that is easy to install, does not require special adhesive mixtures, and hides irregularities and defects in the ceiling well.

When choosing ceiling tiles in a store, you must:

Check the quality of the material. The density of polystyrene grains must be uniform over the entire area of ​​the tile. The edges of the tile should not have chips and fragments.

Make sure that there are no defects in the pattern and relief defects.

2 Tools

3 Materials

4 Preparatory work

Before starting work on laying tiles, you need to prepare the surface on which it will be laid. Special care for this is not required, the tile belongs to unpretentious materials, and it can stay on the remnants of old whitewash. But the quality of adhesion to the ceiling will be much higher if the surface is pre-cleaned, leveled and primed with polyvinyl acetate adhesive.

Ceiling preparation

Installation from a chandelier

You can mount ceiling tiles from a chandelier both diagonally and parallel to the walls. Here you choose according to your taste. It is only important to apply the markup correctly.

Ceiling markings

Through the point at which the chandelier is located, we draw two lines perpendicular to each other. This can be done with the help of thread marks and adhesive tape. We get four right angles.

Installation must begin on the markup from the chandelier to the edge of the ceiling.

If we drew two lines parallel to the walls, then the tile laying will be parallel.

If we divide the right angles in half and draw two diagonals through the resulting points, we get the markup for the diagonal laying method (for a square room)

If the room is rectangular: Out of the four corners, mark two lines diagonally. The place of their intersection is marked as the center.

Through the marked center we draw two lines perpendicular to each other crosswise (parallel to the walls).

Thus, we obtain a surface divided into four equal parts.

Then we build a square with the center marked above and draw diagonals in this square (marked in green in the figure).

We begin to paste over the ceiling with tiles, the first part is glued in such a way that one of its corners is exactly in the designated center, then according to the drawing.

Corner parts will need to be cut to the required size.

Installation

Apply glue to the edges and center of the ceiling tiles (in turn: applied to one - glued).

According to the markup, we lay out four ceiling tiles exactly in the center. (Push to the ceiling, wait three minutes, move to the next tile)

Cut the extreme ceiling tiles with a paint knife to the size you need.

If, after the installation of the ceiling tiles, gaps have formed in the joints, you need to mask them with an acrylic sealant.

Now your ceiling will look like one piece.

Attention! Diagonal laying looks better in large rooms, and parallel - in small ones.

Mounting from base angle

Ceiling markings

The base angle and the base wall choose the wall and the corner that are most visible from the entrance to the room. Most often, the base is determined by the long wall of a rectangular room.

Measure 51 cm perpendicularly from the base wall (tile size + 1 cm for the gap). Put at risk. Go along the base wall to the opposite corner, also measure 51 cm - put at risk.

From risks to risks, stretch the thread, fix it with tape to the ceiling.

The adhesive tape that fixes the thread on the ceiling does not give us the opportunity to start gluing the ceiling tiles from the very corner, so we start gluing by gluing the 2nd and 3rd tiles.

Let's start installing tiles.

Attention! It is imperative to use markings, since the wall may not be even and, after gluing four or five tiles, you will find that the last one crawls onto the wall or even worse does not reach it by five centimeters and you can’t close such a gap with anything.

Installation

Attention! Experts advise starting the process from the second tile, so as not to disturb the layout of the ceiling.

Apply glue to the tiles.

Attention! For the installation of ceiling tiles, universal adhesives are chosen.

Since the tile is a fairly light material, it is not necessary to apply glue to its entire surface, it is enough to process four corners and the center.

Attach the tile to the selected area.

Move to the next tile.

Continue the installation of tiles, if necessary, trim the last row in accordance with the dimensions of the ceiling.

A beautiful and elegant ceiling not only decorates any room, but creates a cozy atmosphere in the house. Ceiling tiles are a way out for those who are fed up with the ideal evenness of the ceiling. Ornate patterns, imitation of stone or wood, a variety of colors help to enliven the interior of any room. Easy installation and budget added pluses to the popularity of this finish.

Types of ceiling tiles

Before choosing the right option, you need to figure out what kind of pvc tile is for the ceiling.

Today, manufacturers present this decorative ceiling covering in three types:

1. Pressed. This is the cheapest type of finish, the product is created by stamping. Thickness in finished form - from 6 to 8 mm. A seamless tile ceiling, imitating a solid coating, is most often represented by stamping.
2. extruded. Produced by pressing. Its surface is perfectly smooth, no graininess, as the product is painted or coated with a film. The thickness of the finished product is from 2.5 to 3 mm. This type of ceiling finish is distinguished by special strength and durability. It is this coating that perfectly imitates natural materials. If you need a wood effect ceiling tile, it will be extruded.
3. Injection. During its production, very high temperatures are used. Sintering gives the finished product increased strength. Thickness - 9-14 mm.

To save the budget, use pressed - its range is quite wide and varied. To create an exclusive design, extruded with a wide range of decorative properties is more suitable.

Wall marking rules

To create a work of art on your ceiling, it is not enough to buy a coating with an intricate pattern. Before you glue the ceiling tiles with your own hands, you need to decide how the coating will be installed. A stylish interior is created using multi-colored tiles, which are glued in a checkerboard pattern or in the form of a snake. The usual options are diagonal and straight.

Before you properly start gluing the ceiling tiles, you need to mark the ceiling. The scheme of future work will avoid trouble in the form of noticeable seams or violations of the pattern.

Markup from the center

The essence of the method is simple: connect the opposite corners of the room with a regular thread. The intersection of the lines is the center of the ceiling, from which the installation begins.

If you intend to glue the tiles to the ceiling diagonally, then no additional action is needed. The threads connecting the corners will serve as markings. The corner of the first square is placed in the designated center of the room. The rest are mounted relative to it.

For mounting in a straight line, you need to draw two more lines. Threads to determine the center divided the ceiling into four parts, forming triangles. For marking, you need to draw lines perpendicular to each other. The new lines pass through the vertex of each triangle at a 45 degree angle. Removing the threads with which we searched for the center of the ceiling, we get two lines of direct marking. The squares of the coating are laid relative to these lines.

Marking from the chandelier

Not always markup from the center will be a good option. The difficulty lies in the fact that the chandelier rarely hangs clearly in the geometric center of the ceiling. Due to the displacement of the light source, installation becomes more complicated - you will have to cut a hole for the lamp cable.

Where to start gluing ceiling tiles in this case? Experts advise gluing not from the geometric center of the ceiling, but from the chandelier. And the installation is easier, and the harmony in the interior is not broken.

The marking technology is the same, but you do not need to look for the center of the ceiling. Lines (straight or diagonal) are drawn through the chandelier hole.

Marking from the corner

Mounting from a corner is the most straightforward way to mark up. It simply won't be needed. The corner of the first square is mounted in the corner of the ceiling. If the sticker option is suitable in a straight line, the whole square is glued first.

Algorithm for mounting diagonally:

• Cut the square in half diagonally;
• Glue the resulting triangle into a corner;
• Glue the whole square with the second, connecting the side with the cut side of the glued one;
• Mount the remaining squares of the cover, respectively, the first two.

In order to hide the unevenness of the ceiling, use multi-colored tiles. It can be laid out in the form of a chessboard or a snake.

How to choose glue

If you decide to update the ceiling in the room or in the kitchen, then you will probably wonder what kind of glue is better to glue the ceiling tiles. A small overview of popular adhesives will help you make the right choice.

Before deciding what to glue the ceiling tiles on, you need to understand what requirements to apply to the candidate:

1. The glue should dry quickly. The strength of the coating and the speed of work depends on this.
2. The adhesive must be sufficiently viscous to hold the coating (even such a light one) on the ceiling.
3. The adhesive must be white or transparent so as not to spoil the appearance of the finished ceiling.
4. The glue must be universal in order to glue different surfaces.

So what is the best adhesive for ceiling tiles?

Glue Titanium for ceiling tiles has a high viscosity. This means you don't have to press it against the ceiling while waiting for the adhesive to set. Titanium is a popular adhesive for pvc tiles due to its affordable cost and versatility. It is suitable for gluing various materials, so the remaining glue is always useful in the household.

Clay Master for ceiling tiles has a too strong smell. You will have to work with it with an open window, and temperature changes will negatively affect the installation. The negative qualities of this glue can be safely attributed to the duration of drying. Even after several hours, the finish is easily moved.

Dragon Polymer All-Purpose Adhesive also has an unpleasant, persistent odor and a drying time.

Acrylic putty is usually used for finishing work before painting or wallpapering. But its qualities - density and good tenacity - allow it to be used for finishing the ceiling.

When choosing how to glue the tiles, you need to pay attention to the convenience of packaging. Tile glue in tubes is much more convenient to use than in cans.

Installation of tiles on the ceiling

Installation of a new ceiling coating is carried out after surface preparation. In this case, you can leave the old coating in place.

If you still do not know what to glue first: wallpaper or ceiling tiles? To this tricky question, experts say there is no difference in the order in which the work is done. After all, one does not interfere with the other. And all the irregularities at the meeting point of two perpendicular planes can be hidden with skirting boards.

It is allowed to glue ceiling tiles on whitewash. The main rule in this case is the surface primer. Contrary to popular belief, the coating will hold firmly and long enough. Especially if you still clean those places where the whitewash is cracking and moving away from the ceiling.

If everything is simple with whitewashed ceilings and wallpaper, then gluing ceiling tiles on old ceiling tiles is definitely not worth it. This will affect the quality of installation and the appearance of the ceiling. The old finish is noticeably translucent, and such a coating is held very poorly.

If you decide to prepare the ceiling carefully, then the video tutorial below will help you:

The classic installation method is the answer to the question of how to properly glue ceiling tiles. This coating method involves cleaning the ceiling, leveling its surface, priming, preparing all the tools, and then decorative finishing.

Installation steps in pictures:

Answers to the most popular questions will help you quickly and competently update the ceiling:

1. How to apply adhesive to ceiling tiles? Special compounds are applied dotted around the entire perimeter and in the center for strength. Acrylic putty should be applied in an even strip around the entire perimeter.
2. How to glue ceiling tiles on an uneven ceiling? In this case, the glue must be applied around the perimeter in an even layer. If the ceiling is too uneven, then no finish will save the situation. Visually correct the irregularities will not work, as well as glue the coating with high quality. The ceiling in this case is better to align.
3. How to clean ceiling tiles? Care must be taken during installation. But if the glue still got on the front side, it is better to immediately remove it with a dry cloth.
4. How to clean the ceiling from tile adhesive? When removing the old coating, you need to remove all traces of its presence, including glue. An effective way is mechanical removal using a special power tool (grinder) or a conventional spatula and chisel. Less labor-intensive use of solvents.
5. Can ceiling tiles be glued to wallpaper? Oddly enough, you can. Recommendations, as in the first case: remove the wallpaper in those places where they already move away from the ceiling. In this case, it is important to consider that bright wallpaper shines through the white coating. It is allowed to glue wallpaper on the ceiling tiles, of course, if its surface is without relief.

We wish you good luck with your tasks when repairing the ceiling!

Styrofoam tiles are inexpensive, fast, easy to install and are one of the most affordable materials for finishing the ceiling. Before starting work, you need to understand what ceiling tiles are, the adhesive mixture for them and the layout options. The composition for gluing is not suitable for everyone, it is important that it does not contain components that destroy the finish. Consider the types of mixtures, methods of preparing the surface and laying out the decor in more detail.

Types of Styrofoam Ceiling Tile Adhesive

When choosing how to glue foam ceiling tiles, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics of the composition:

• strength and reliability of adhesion of the decor to the base;
• fast setting;
• increased adhesion - this is the property of adhesion of the mixture to the base;
• viscosity;
• safety for decor and people;
• application layer thickness;
• installation features - there are adhesive mixtures that require application not only on the tile, but also on the surface, this increases consumption.

Advice! In the presence of small irregularities in the plane, defects, glue is selected with the possibility of applying a thick and thin layer, it is easier to hide bumps and cavities, scratches.

The type of base is also taken into account - there are mixtures for wooden, concrete, plastered ceilings. But what should not be in the composition is solvents such as acetone, toluene, white spirit - they melt the foam.

Advice! If the glue will dry longer than 25-30 seconds, it is better not to take it, since it is difficult to stand with your hands up for a long time. But drying faster than 5 seconds is also not suitable - it will not be possible to correct the tile to eliminate uneven layouts.

The easiest way is to choose glue and primer from the same manufacturer or based on the same basic components, the compositions adhere better. Compositions are well suited for gluing: PVA, universal adhesives without caustic solvents, liquid nails, melt. You can attach the decor to acrylic putty, then you do not have to seal the seams.

Advice! Home craftsmen often get by with Moment-type compositions. You need to know that after drying, yellow spots of glue are visible through thin plates, so it is better to choose a white mixture without pigments.

Preparatory work before gluing

The plane of the ceiling must be properly prepared so that the tile lies without air bubbles. The decor is mounted on a flat base base, cleaned of the old finish. If the ceilings are sewn up with drywall or plywood before finishing, such a base is also being prepared.

What should be done:

1. Wash off whitewash from the ceiling, remove wallpaper, paint or old decor. If there are areas with loose plaster, remove everything and clean it to a concrete base. Whitewash is washed off with water, like water-based paint, the wallpaper is soaked, then peeled off, and a spatula or special washes can be used for paint.
2. Assess the flatness of the surface. If necessary, seal cracks, chips with putty, remove tubercles with emery or a grinder. Now you need to prime the surface and treat it with an antiseptic - this will help protect the plane from mold. The primer should be deep penetration, you can immediately take it with antiseptic additives. Treat 2-3 times, allowing the previous coat to dry before applying the next.
3. After priming, a flat surface can be prepared for cladding, and an uneven surface can be puttied. Useful starting and finishing putty. The starting one is applied to especially deep defects up to 0.4 cm, and if the chips and scratches are less than 0.2 cm, the finishing one is enough.

Advice! Finishing putty is applied with a layer of no more than 0.2 cm. When using the starting composition, the finishing is always applied and applied after the base base has completely dried with a layer of starting putty.

1. Prime the ceilings 2 times, allowing the first layer to dry well, and only then apply the second, and you can tile the ceilings.

Advice! If there is mold on the base surface, the zones are cleaned to a concrete base and treated with a special antiseptic or a solution of copper sulphate with lime.

Materials and tools

When figuring out how to glue ceiling tiles, you need to not only buy the necessary materials in advance, but also take care of the tools.

The master will need the following set:

• tape measure and pencil;
• primer;
• antiseptic mixture;
• putty knife;
• putty (if you have to level the ceilings);
• primer roller;
• tile adhesive;
• the tile itself is foam;
• knife for cutting elements;
• adhesive composition;
• sealant for sealing seams and joints.

Work will be carried out on the ceiling, so a solid table will not hurt. Taking a stepladder is not the best option, you can’t lay out tiles, glue and other improvised materials, tools on it. Also, the master will need protective equipment, a wash or water for the old decor and a ruler - it is more convenient to measure the pieces of tiles that need to be cut with it.

Decor styling options and schemes

How to glue tiles on the ceiling, the owner himself chooses, there are several layout schemes:

1. Along the long walls. This is the simplest option that does not require special miscalculations. The layout is carried out in even rows, but the ideal geometry of the room is required - if there are irregularities, the finish will only emphasize the defects. You need to start work from the central point of the ceiling, and tiles cut to the desired size are laid along the edges.
2. Rhombus. This laying well levels the wrong geometry of the room, but requires preliminary calculations and markings.
3. Diagonal. The technique will require a lot of expense, but it will help to make the room unusual and hide the difference in the length of the walls. The way to properly glue a ceiling tile with a diagonal is simple - find the center of the room by drawing diagonal lines from the corners, from the center point and start gluing.

Advice! Sometimes the walls vary greatly in length, so it is better to find the center of the wall, and lay out the first elements at the intersection of the lines.

1. With offset seams. This is how ceilings are pasted over only with decor without a pattern, and each next element is shifted by half the width of the previous one - laying out in rows with precise control of the offset width.

How to glue ceiling tiles in different ways, figured out. Consider the features of the markup and other nuances.

Base ceiling layout

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, the base surface must be marked. Be sure to pay attention to the size of the decor, for example, consider how to stick tiles on the ceiling and make markings for elements with a side of 500 mm. You need to start marking from the center of the ceiling, if the layout is diagonal or rhombus from the wall - provided that the laying will be done in even rows or with a seam offset.

Advice! When marking from the wall, the masters are advised to choose the wall opposite from the window.

If there is a chandelier in the room, then the hook on the ceiling exactly points to the center of the plane, no - pull the fishing line along the diagonal corners, at the intersection point there will be a center. It is necessary to find the center of the wall, each wall is measured, the center is marked, a fishing line or paint cord is pulled - at the intersection there will be the desired point. The option to search for the center of the wall is suitable for rooms with broken geometry, and the diagonal tension of the cords is carried out in rooms with even walls.

Advice! If a solid element is laid out in the center of the ceiling, and not the corners of the tile, half the size of the tile is deposited from the center point on both sides, mark the zones. Within the measurement and glue the first element of the decor.

Pasting technique

Consider how to glue foam ceiling tiles. Professional tips to help you get the job done:

• The option of applying the adhesive composition depends on the type of mixture. If it is acrylic putty or cement mortar, it is better to use spot application so as not to create weight on the base base. Using liquid nails, non-aggressive adhesive compositions, you can apply a track around the entire perimeter, to a central point, and then level the mixture over the entire surface of the decorative part with a spatula.
• Pasting is carried out with closed doors and windows. There should be no drafts so as not to disturb the drying process of the mixture - this can affect the bonding strength.
• Read on the composition how to apply it. There are adhesives that need to be smeared, then attach the tile to the ceiling, peel it off and let the composition dry a little. Manufacturers also produce glue with a mandatory application on the reverse side of the decor and the base surface.
• Apply glue to the tile, wait 1-2 minutes for setting and glue the element to the ceiling at a pre-marked point.
• Take the next part, attach it to the previous one without glue, visually assess the evenness and you can apply glue. Evenness must be checked in the first row for each element, selectively in subsequent rows. Thus, the owner gets the opportunity to quickly correct the layout if a small shift has occurred somewhere.

After the entire plane is decorated, trimmed elements are laid along the edges, you can seal the seams with a sealant, applying the composition in a thin layer to prevent thickening. The final touch is the decor of the joint between the ceiling and the wall with skirting boards, baguettes or decorative slats.

Advice! If the decor is laid out correctly, then laying the plinth will not cause problems. For ceilings wired with plasterboard, any type of baguettes are selected, and for surfaces pasted over with tiles, it is better to select lightweight foam parts so as not to weigh down the decorative coating.

Tiles can be painted, painted or varnished, the main thing is that the parts are firmly and securely fastened, the finishing technology is selected according to the requirements and taste of the owner. For example, in rooms with a high level of humidity, the decor is painted to protect it from water, and in open areas with the aggressive effects of wind and sun, the finish can be varnished with a waterproof varnish without aggressive components and solvents in the composition.

Sticking foam tiles is a simple and budgetary way to cover the ceiling. Repair will be mastered by anyone, since special tools and skills are not required. Therefore, the work is most often done independently. But even such a simple process has nuances that you should familiarize yourself with in the absence of experience. Consider in detail how to properly glue the ceiling tiles. If the recommendations are followed, the finish will last more than 10 years.

Types of ceiling tiles

Expanded polystyrene products can be glued to concrete, brick, wood. Facing hides small surface flaws. Another advantage is the thermal and sound insulation of the room. If an individual element is damaged, it is simply replaced without resorting to repairing the entire coating. Tiles are easy to care for. It is cleaned with a dry cloth and a vacuum cleaner. Dirt is removed from laminated products with detergents, from this they are not deformed.

Basically, white plates are produced with various relief patterns imitating stucco molding or decorative textured coating. Such products are intended for painting, but there are also colored laminated panels coated with a protective layer.

According to the production method, tiles are:

1. extruded- made by pressing polystyrene. It has a smooth surface, without graininess. They produce laminated material of different colors, with imitation of marble, wood. This is the most expensive option for ceiling tiles. It has high strength and noise absorption, it is easy to clean and recover after deformation.
2. stamped- Made from foam. The surface is looser, granular, polystyrene granules are clearly visible. It costs less than its counterparts. The drawing is created by stamping. Tiles do not tolerate moisture well and are not suitable for bathrooms and kitchens. Due to the wide pores, dirt clogs into it. It is inconvenient to work with stamped foam plastic, because it is brittle, it wrinkles a lot. To make the lining last longer, it is painted with paint.
3. injection- made by sintering polystyrene foam in a special form. It has a clear pattern. This is an intermediate option between extruded and pressed products. The products are characterized by good sound absorption. The product is relatively resistant to moisture and tolerates painting well.

According to the method of designing the edge, they distinguish:

1. Seamless tile. It got its name because there are no seams during installation. There is a feeling of a monolithic surface, as if the ceiling is painted or whitewashed.
2. With decorative edging. On panels of this type, a chamfer of various shapes and sizes is cast around the perimeter. When sticking, a small seam remains between the elements, which is intended solely for decorative purposes.

There are two types of seamless polystyrene tiles:

1. (zigzag or wavy) - so the junctions are less visible to the eye.
2. - the edges of the tiles are so even and perfectly sized that the joints between them are barely visible. Often such products are made with a decorative fill - on the front side they are decorated with an ornament (leaves, flowers, waves), which visually distracts attention from the seams and makes them less noticeable.

Note! On an uneven surface, it is difficult to lay tiles so that the joints are invisible. If you choose a seamless coating, you will need to pre-level the base.

Usually square-shaped ceiling tiles 50x50 cm in size are on sale. But other formats are also available: 30x60, 30x70, 40x40, 40x70 and 60x60 cm. The shape visually enlarges or reduces the room. The smaller the square, the larger the room appears.

One of the disadvantages of the material is that it fades or turns yellow when exposed to sunlight. Also, the tile can be deformed from temperatures above 80 ° C, so you should choose lighting fixtures that do not heat up, or place them at a sufficient distance from the ceiling.

When choosing tiles, consider:

• the correct shape of the products (smooth edges, no broken corners, the same size);
• clarity of embossing;
• quality of painting, lamination;
• homogeneity of the material, the absence of voids, defects and irregularities.

Expanded polystyrene tiles are best purchased with a margin. Different batches may differ in shade or pattern execution. For some models with decorative fill, for convenience, markings in the form of arrows are applied on the reverse side - these tips will help you to lay in the right direction.

Layout schemes

Ceiling tiles are glued in three ways: in even rows, with an offset to the floor of the element and diagonally. Depending on the layout scheme, a different visual effect and perception of the room is obtained. Let's consider each option in more detail.

in even rows

This is a classic layout when the edges are parallel to the walls (in a rectangular or square room). The method allows you to hide small irregularities in the ceiling, if the tiles of two shades are laid in a checkerboard pattern.

Offset

The option resembles the classic cladding method, but the tile is shifted by half the element relative to the previous row. This requires more precise markup. The original design gives the room some lightness, but products must be chosen with a chamfer, since it makes no sense to glue tiles without seams in this way.

Diagonally

The main advantage of the layout is the visual increase in space. The circuit requires the most effort, as a more precise fit is needed. In addition, the consumption of material increases. The diagonal laying method allows you to hide the slight curvature of the walls.

Where to start tiling

There are several layout options that depend on the size, shape of the room and the location of the chandelier. Consider where it is better to start gluing tiles.

From the center of the room

This method is used most often. Its popularity is due to its neat appearance and symmetrical arrangement of finishes. Installation begins by finding the center of the ceiling and marking the surface. The first four tiles are laid so that their corners converge at this point. If there is a chandelier, its position should coincide with the center of the room.

From the central tile

With this scheme, the first element is glued in the center of the ceiling. Then from it continue laying. The markup is carried out so that the middle of the tile coincides with the center of the room. The disadvantage of this method is that you have to remove the chandelier. You will also need to make a neat hole in the middle of the tile.

From the chandelier

If the chandelier is not in the center of the ceiling, the design in the two previous ways may not look aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, the light source acts as a guideline from which gluing begins. The first four tiles will converge at the point of attachment of the lamp. At the joining corners, a hole is cut out for the chandelier. You can also make a hole in the middle of the tile and start laying from it, as in the previous method.

From the corner

In small rooms, gluing tiles starts from the corner that is more visible from the door. This avoids wastage of material. Otherwise, you need to cut a lot of panels.

Methods for gluing ceiling tiles

So, we have determined where to start laying tiles, now let's look at what gluing methods exist. Everyone chooses the most convenient for themselves.

snake

For this method, each next row is laid around the previous one, as if wrapping around the central elements. The first fragments are glued in the center.

criss-cross

In this case, the panels begin to be laid crosswise. First glue the first four squares in the center. Then straight lines are formed perpendicular to each of the walls. At the last stage, the resulting quarters are filled.

Rows from the corner

The first tile is placed in the far corner from the door. Then move along the wall. After that, glue the next row parallel to the first. Work starts from the place that is best viewed when entering the room. If you start working from the door, it may turn out that in the most eye-opening part of the room there will be an ugly thin strip of scraps.

Adhesive selection

To fix the tiles to the ceiling, several types of glue are used:

• Universal formulations. Glue "Elitans" is suitable for working with wood, plaster, concrete. It is convenient in that it forms an elastic seam, however, the composition dries for a long time. Glue "Titan" is more common, it has a viscous consistency, quickly seizes. Similar in composition to the Master glue, but the pungent odor and longer drying time are the main disadvantages. The advantage over the "Titan" is an affordable price. "Moment" - expensive, but high-quality glue. It quickly bonds, but the consumption is greater than that of analogues. The packaging is made in the form of a syringe, so you need a gun for it. Universal adhesives also include "Dragon", "Power", "Anserglob".
• Liquid Nails. This type of glue is often used by professionals. Liquid nails are thick, so they are placed in a thick layer on uneven areas. For tiles, white glue is chosen, without solvents, especially when working with thin material. It is also used for seams. The most famous brands are Moment Montazh and Tytan. For application, you will need a construction syringe.
• Polyvinyl acetate adhesive. PVA and Bustilat practically do not give an unpleasant odor, but they seize longer, and the consumption can be quite large, since the glue is applied both to the tile itself and to the ceiling.
• Finishing acrylic putty. This is a non-standard, but effective use of a product that has the right viscosity. When gluing on putty, the seams are white, and gaps are not formed. The surface can be painted. To work, you need a spatula.

List of tools and calculation of materials

For pasting you will need the following tools:

• roller;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• brush, spatula or construction syringe (depending on the type of glue);
• masking tape;
• roulette;
• chopping cord;
• soft tissue napkins;
• ladder.

The number of tiles is calculated by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. First, the length and width of the room are measured with a tape measure, multiplied, and the desired value is obtained. If the room has a complex non-standard shape, all sides are measured and a plan is drawn up. The drawing is divided into squares or rectangles and their area is calculated, then the results are added up.

Next, determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone tile by multiplying the length by the width. Then the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is divided by the resulting number. 10% is added to it when installing in straight rows, and 20% when laying obliquely and in the case of a complex shape of the room.

Glue consumption per 1 m² is indicated on the packaging. The required number of tubes is calculated by dividing the area of ​​​​the room by the number from the instructions. It is better to take one more bottle. For example, "Titan" glue will need about 50 g per 1 square meter, "Moment of installation" or PVA - 200-300 g. It must be borne in mind that the heavier the coating, the greater the consumption of glue.

Preparing the ceiling for gluing

Installation of tiles begins only after cleaning the surface.

1. Old finishes are removed from the ceiling - oil paint, whitewash, wallpaper.
2. Dents, wide and deep cracks, significant irregularities are removed with putty.
3. Prime the surface for better adhesion to the material.

Immediately before starting work, the room is de-energized. Ceiling lamps are removed, the ceiling of the chandelier is protected with film or paper. Close all doors and windows to eliminate drafts.

If the tile is too transparent, dark spots may appear through it and through the seams. In such cases, it is advised to pre-coat the ceiling with water-based paint or choose a white primer.

The markup begins with determining the center of the room, pulling two chopping threads diagonally from one corner to the other. The point where the lines intersect will be the desired point. After the center of the room is found (it can be shifted to where the chandelier is located), it is set aside from it and perpendicular to the walls are applied to the surface.

Then you can, focusing on the size of the tile and the selected layout scheme, draw the entire ceiling in fragments. This will help work out possible mistakes before the finish sticks tightly. For beginners, experts recommend transferring the room plan to paper and drawing up a preliminary drawing.

Sticking technology

Windows and doors are closed to prevent drafts - then it is less likely that the coating will peel off. Before gluing, each tile is inspected and the material is rejected - specimens with uneven edges, dents and other defects are set aside, they are useful for trimming. Furniture is taken out or covered with a film.

Ceiling tiles are glued in the following sequence:

1. Apply glue to the back of the panel.
2. Press the tiles to the ceiling. To prevent thin foam from cracking under the pressure of hands, use a wide wooden plank.
3. Focusing on the markup, stick the rest of the plates. Glue is removed with a damp sponge or cloth.
4. At the wall, cut the panels with a sharp knife.
5. The last step is to glue the ceiling plinth.

Sometimes there are tiles slightly larger or smaller, such a defect is not always noticeable during rejection. In order not to form ugly gaps or inconsistencies in the pattern, first try on a dry tile to the ceiling and only then smear it with glue.

How to properly apply adhesive to ceiling tiles

The adhesive mixture is applied in one of two ways:

1. On the ledges on the wrong side of the panel.
2. In the middle of each tile and at touching corners.

If the ceiling has a porous texture, the layer should be thick. Some types of glue (for example, "Moment") require pre-exposure before gluing. The terms of use of each product are indicated in the instructions on the package. Sometimes the glue sticks out on the sides. To prevent this from happening, it is applied, not reaching the edge of the tile by 1 cm. The excess that has come through is gently wiped with a clean, damp rag or sponge.

How to glue tiles near a chandelier

If there is a chandelier in the center, a hole is first made in the panels. To do this, each of the four squares is applied to the attachment point and the excess part is cut out. If the installation is carried out from the central tile, then the hole is made in the middle of the panel.

It is not necessary to finish the ceiling with expensive material. There is a budget material with which you can get a good result. These are foam boards. In the article we will tell you how to stick tiles on the ceiling, in what sequence you need to perform installation in order to get a high-quality coating.

foam tiles

Before pasting the ceiling with tiles, you need to decide on the choice of material. For finishing the ceiling surface, the following types of material are on sale:

• molded foam panels made by stamping. The material has a porous structure, which is clogged with dirt during operation. It is recommended that after installing the panels, paint them with acrylic paint. The material is inexpensive, brittle and wrinkled, inconvenient to use. When choosing this type of coating, you should take the material with a margin of about 10%. The thickness of a single panel is from 6 to 12 mm;
• extruded. Panels of small thickness, only 2-3 mm, but quite dense and expensive. Profiles imitating wood or natural stone are produced. Expanded polystyrene material is easy to care for, but cannot be painted. Paint literally rolls off a smooth surface;
• injection. The difference from other types of tiles in a clearly visible pattern, which is obtained during production. Materials can be painted, not difficult to mount. The cost is average.

It is easiest to glue the ceiling with extruded tiles. This coating is easier to care for.

The usual shape of the panels is square. But, non-standard, rectangular panels are produced. You can paste over the ceiling with seamless tiles, the edges of which can be wavy or even.

Foam ceiling tiles are considered the most popular material for gluing ceilings. But there are other types of tiles made from the following materials:

• acrylic. Such profiles visually increase the height and area of ​​the room;
• tree. Environmentally friendly profiles;
• ceramics. This type is used in rooms with high humidity;
• metal. Spectacular, durable and non-combustible material, but very expensive.

When choosing profiles for the ceiling, pay attention to how the material is combined with the interior and furnishings.

How to choose a tile?

To properly glue the ceiling with tiles, you need to choose the right material.

When choosing, you need to pay attention not only to the appearance of the panels. Each element must be the same shape, size and thickness. The corners must be 90 degrees. During installation, if the panel does not meet the requirements, the surface will be flawed.

When choosing foam tiles for gluing the ceiling, carefully inspect the corners of the product. They shouldn't crumble. The structure of each panel should be fine-grained and uniform, and the pattern should be clearly visible.

Calculation of the amount of material

Before gluing the tiles to the ceiling, it is necessary to calculate the amount of material for finishing.

The standard side of the tile is 50 cm. This number indicates that 4 panels per 1 square meter will be needed. To calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by 4. The resulting figure must be rounded up.

Buy 10% or 15% more material than you need. Additional tiles will go to cutting and corners.

To glue the tiles to the ceiling, you will need glue or liquid nails. You can take an adhesive with a rubber base, the consumption will be small. They also use such types of glue as Titanium and Moment.

Ceramic tile

In rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms or kitchens, ceramic tiles can be glued to the ceiling. The material, in addition to moisture resistance, is durable and has a long service life.

First you need to choose the right material, which must be of high quality and meet certain requirements:

1. the dimensions of each panel must match diagonally, literally up to a millimeter;
2. to check the panels, you need to put two pieces facing or back to each other. In this position, the corners of the panels are examined, which must match. Even with a slight discrepancy of 0.5 mm, it will not be possible to perform high-quality gluing of the ceiling with tiles;
3. Further, the material is checked in this way. The panels are placed on a flat surface, and inspected so that there are no gaps under them.

It is not necessary to check all panels, and this is impossible. It is enough to take several panels from different packages for testing.

To glue ceramic tiles to the ceiling, you must perform the following steps:

1. prepare the work surface. The old ceiling covering is removed. It can be wallpaper, paint, whitewash, layers of old plaster. Regardless of the type of old coating, it must be completely removed. The cleaned surface is primed and puttied;
2. then a cement-based mortar is kneaded for gluing tiles to the ceiling. The solution in the form of a track is thrown onto the surface of the ceiling, and a profile is attached that acts as a beacon;
3. you can apply the solution not on the ceiling, but directly on the tiles. After applying the solution, it must be smoothed with a spatula, combed;
4. the tile with the applied solution is applied to the surface and pressed for shrinkage;
5. with a rubber spatula, you need to remove excess mortar that protrudes along the edges of the profile;
6. when mounting each subsequent element, special crosses are placed in the seams to get the perfect angle. Thus, the tile will not move to the side;
7. usually the last tiles are trimmed before laying. A tile cutter or grinder is used.

After installing all the tiles, the lined surface is wiped with a damp sponge or rag. If this is done after the solution has dried, then more effort will have to be made.

After gluing the tiles to the ceiling and completely drying the surface, proceed to rubbing the seams. For this purpose, a special mixture is purchased. Before grouting, the seams are cleaned with a spatula.

The grout mixture is applied with a rubber spatula with pressing movements. When the grout dries, the surface is wiped with a sponge.

Before installation, you can watch a video on how to properly stick ceramic tiles on the ceiling, and once again study the step-by-step instructions.

Adhesive on uneven ceiling

If you are going to glue the ceiling with foam tiles, there is often such a problem as an uneven work surface. If you do not solve the problem, then the installation simply cannot be completed.

You can, of course, stick the ceiling plate on an uneven ceiling if it is made of polystyrene foam. This option is possible with small surface defects and reliable fixation of the profiles.

To glue ceiling tiles on an uneven ceiling, you need to consider the following points:

• the tile is selected in size so that the dimensions of the surface irregularities are taken into account;
• it is better to dwell on relief profiles, because with such a texture, irregularities will be less noticeable.

To save time and additional materials, you can glue the ceiling tiles on an uneven ceiling. Perhaps, if you do not look closely at the ceiling, this option will even look. In this case, the floor and walls should be even.

But, if you need to get a high-quality result, then you should not glue the ceiling tiles on an uneven ceiling. If the tiles are metal or ceramic, then they will not hold on to an uneven base coat.

But, even light foam profiles are desirable to be mounted on a prepared, leveled surface. You can use two options. Either the ceiling surface is completely cleaned of the old coating and leveled, or a metal or foam frame is mounted. The tile is mounted on a frame structure.

Leveling the surface with putty

To work, you need the following tools:

• putty knife;
• beacons;
• rule;
• grater.

To prepare the ceiling for pasting with foam tiles or a profile made of another material, you must perform the following steps:

1. it is necessary to completely remove the old coating using a dry or wet technique. The old coating usually crumbles, leaks, mold marks, cracks and crevices are visible. It is also desirable to remove the old layer of plaster;
2. then you need to choose how to process the ceiling before gluing the ceiling tiles. Usually, a high-quality antiseptic solution is used to protect against various microorganisms, which fills the pores of the working surface;
3. the ceiling cleaned from the old coating is primed. A deep penetration primer is used;
4. The next step is to apply the starting layer of putty. Instead of putty, a cement solution with the addition of glue for elasticity is suitable;
5. further mark places for beacons;
6. markup is performed. With a spatula, along the marking lines, a putty or cement mortar track is applied. The beacon is installed on the track and fixed by the rule. A thread is pulled from the edge of the first beacon, and the remaining marks are set to allow the tiles to be correctly glued to the ceiling;
7. putty is applied between the beacons, then the alignment is performed by the rule;
8. if in the process of work irregularities appear, then they need to be rubbed with a grater;
9. after the putty layer has dried, the beacons can be removed. Remove the beacons a day after applying the plaster;
10. at the final stage, the surface is rubbed with a wet float.

You can glue the foam board on the shelves on the third or fourth day after the completion of the surface leveling work.

Styrofoam frame for mounting tiles on uneven surfaces

The frame is suitable for ceiling surfaces consisting of individual blocks. At the same time, the sealed joints protrude, and it will not be possible to correctly stick the tiles on the ceiling.

The frame is mounted as follows:

1. foam sheets are cut into strips;
2. the strips are glued to the ceiling at such a distance that one tile can be fixed on two foam strips;
3. where sections of the ceiling are uneven, recesses are cut out on the foam strips with a knife.

To make foam strips of the required width, you need to take into account the dimensions of the profiles.

Installation of a foam frame is considered a simpler option for preparing a working surface. No need to wait until the putty layer dries, as when leveling the ceiling. All work can be done in a day.

But, this option will be less reliable. In addition, only foam tiles can be glued to the ceiling on the foam frame. The design will not withstand heavy ceramic or metal profiles.

Installation

After leveling the working surface, you can start pasting the ceiling with foam tiles.

The following profile locations are available:

• parallel to the walls. The option is possible only with perfectly flat walls;
• diagonal sticking;
• rhombus wrap. The corner of the profile for finishing is fixed in the center.

After choosing a method, the following installation steps are performed:

1. markings are made on the ceiling;
2. glue is applied to the first tile. The adhesive composition is applied along the perimeter and diagonals of the profile;
3. the tile smeared with glue is applied in the right place and pressed;
4. other profiles are fixed similarly to the first one;
5. after installation of all tiles, the seams are puttied or rubbed with silicone-based sealant.

Upon completion of installation, ceiling plinths are mounted.

You can see the video below on how to glue the ceiling with ceiling tiles.

Whitewashed ceiling sticker

You can tile the ceiling surface with tiles on almost any base coat. But, it is not always possible to glue ceiling tiles on a whitewashed ceiling. In this matter, it all depends on the following points:

• type of whitewash;
• features of applying the old coating.

If chalk whitewash was applied, then it is better to refuse tiles as a ceiling finish. The material will definitely start to come off.

• the old finish easily lags behind the surface;
• on the ceiling there are several lime whitewash layers that are already stratified;
• as a whitewash, frozen lime was used, reminiscent of the chalk coating method.

Important: sticking foam tiles to the ceiling will only work if the old whitewash was applied once and in a thin layer. One more nuance - the old covering keeps normally.

The tile used in the case of an old whitewash coating can only be light. These can be profiles made of foam or extruded polystyrene foam.

Installation of tiles consists of several stages:

1. preparatory work;
2. primer of the cleaned surface;
3. markup;
4. installation of foam plastic profiles with finishing.

Consider how to properly glue the tiles on the ceiling for whitewashing in more detail.

Preparatory work

Preparatory activities consist of the following:

1. run your hand over the old whitewash, and make sure that the whitewash does not smear;
2. then the surface is brushed, then wiped with a damp sponge;
3. after the previous steps, you need to check again how well the old layer holds. Use a spatula to remove areas of whitewash that are suspicious. If the lime begins to fall off, then you need to remove these parts, capturing a few extra centimeters.

The preparatory activities are completed, and you can start priming work.

Primer application

Thanks to the primer, the adhesion between the base ceiling surface and the adhesive is improved.

The primer is applied as follows:

1. before using a deep penetration primer, the composition is shaken and poured into a special container, from which it can be taken with a roller;
2. the roller is impregnated with a primer and slightly squeezed. Then you need to walk with a roller along the cleaned whitewashed surface of the ceiling. The layer is applied thinly. To get to hard-to-reach areas, use a brush;
3. you need to wait for the complete drying of the soil layer, then apply a second layer.

If large defects are found on the surface, then they need to be puttied.

markup

The quality of the future finish of the foam lining depends on the correctly applied markings.

The markup is done like this:

1. mark a point at the intersection of the diagonals of the ceiling. This will be the center mark;
2. further lines are marked along which you need to align the foam tiles. The location of these lines depends on the laying method.

You can not mark the entire ceiling surface. You can mark up only two center lines, then align the rest of the profiles with them.

Sticking

Before installing the panels, you need to cut off the burrs from them. As an adhesive, it is better to take liquid nails or glue from polymers.

Installation is done like this:

1. installation starts from the center of the ceiling;
2. glue is applied around the perimeter and center of the profile;
3. the profile with the applied glue is aligned according to the markup and pressed against the ceiling;
4. this is how a square of panels is laid out, and subsequent foam profiles;
5. gluing in the corner, at the joints, is carried out after cutting the profiles;
6. after the glue has hardened, the gaps between the profiles are puttied.

To finish and close the puttied joints, you can paint the foam tiles. If the profile has a rough rather than glossy structure, then the surface is pre-primed. The paint is applied in two or three layers with a roller. The first layer goes along the direction of the light, the next - across the natural light.