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How to properly install an interior door. How to install an interior door yourself: install a door with a box yourself Install interior doors with your own hands in an apartment

Installing interior doors is a very important process in the repair of an apartment or a private house. It is quite simple and does not require special skills, but still it is worth recognizing that making doors strong, reliable and durable is a very important job that should be approached as responsibly as possible.

At what stage of the repair are the doors inserted in the apartment?

Of course, before you start installing interior doors, their owners have a lot of different questions: how to do it, which doors are better, how to make them more durable and reliable? Probably one of the most basic and very first - at what stage of the repair are the doors inserted in the apartment?

There are actually several options here:

• The first option is best considered when it is planned to expand the doorway in the future. In this case, the process of installing the door should be done before finishing the room. This is done with the aim that during such an action as installing a door, a very large amount of dust settles on various pieces of furniture, and it, like ceilings with walls, cannot remain clean.
• The second option should be considered when the door already exactly fits the size of the doorway. In this case, it would be best to install the doors after the ceilings and walls are finished. Then the new door will not be damaged during the repair work.

• And, finally, the last case, the third, - after wallpapering, as well as processing and washing ceilings, floors and walls. This will also help keep all furniture, doors and the room itself clean.

What is better to insert and from what material?

The second question that arises among the owners of apartments being renovated before installing doors concerns the material of manufacture and the very type of door. In fact, there is no single correct answer to this question, since something individual will suit each person and each apartment. But in this article we will try to weigh the pros and cons of each door option from each material.

The choice of such an item in an apartment or house as a door depends on several parameters:

• The first is, of course, the price. It varies from each company, the quality of the material and the product itself. For example, the cheapest and most affordable option is a honeycomb door, which usually costs around a thousand rubles. The most expensive and "elite" option is a solid array and a door made from it, it costs about 20 thousand rubles, which is quite expensive. Of course, there are also intermediate price categories: for example, a leaf door costs in most cases 4,500 rubles, which is quite acceptable.
• The second parameter follows from the first parameter - the material of the product. About honeycomb material, solid array and leafy canvas has already been mentioned above. The first one is the most low-quality because of its cheapness, the second one is of very high quality, reliable and durable, while the average quality is possessed by sheet (or type-setting) canvas, MDF, chipboard, and also glued wood. The middle price category also includes a door with metal and glass.

There are also doors classified by material, such as: glass, eco-veneer:

• The choice of door also depends on its design and color. Naturally, classic, very simple designs will cost less and fit into the vast majority of interior styles, but they will not have a special personality and will not become a decoration for a house or apartment. So it's a smart option to invest in a beautiful, distinctive door design, as it can make your home feel even more inviting and enjoyable. Do not forget that the combination of this product with the interior and style of the apartment is very important, and its incorrect selection can spoil the appearance of the house.
• The next parameter is, of course, the design. Naturally, for the most part, the door has a classic, standard rectangular shape and an average thickness, but it, like the shape, may vary. It is necessary to focus on the width, height and other dimensions of the doorway, as well as, as in other cases, on the interior of the home. By design, there are also doors: double, sliding, sliding, double-leaf, hidden, hinged, folding, single-rail, on rollers, as well as telescopic and soundproof.

• In the end, we come to the last but not least parameter: company manufacturer. A lot can also depend on it, since different companies offer a different assortment and quality, and also differ in price and sometimes very much. The best door manufacturing companies are Vladimir Door Factory, Verda, Alvero, Bravo and others.

What tools and materials will be needed?

Naturally, for such a process as installing an interior door, you will need a variety of special tools and materials. They must be purchased before this action. So, we will need:

• hammer;
• chisels (20 and 15-16 mm);
• roulette;
• level and scrap;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• a hacksaw designed for woodworking;
• miter box;
• perforator;

• drill;
• milling machine (milling cutter) and circular (if possible);
• mounting kit;
• installation accessories;
• planks;
• Miter saw;
• vacuum cleaner (for cleaning the room).

As for the materials for installation, we will need:

• door leaf;
• door frame and fittings (it includes locks, hinges, handles);
• mounting foam;
• wedges;
• nails, dowels and a few screws.

We take measurements

Step by step, we approached, directly, the work itself. And the first step on the way to the result will be measurements - a very important step.

So we need a few measurements. The first, as you might guess, is the width of the doorway: it determines the size of the door itself. If the doorway itself has yet to be built, it is imperative to take into account what size furniture will have to be carried through it in the future. An error in choosing the size can make it very difficult to repair and rearrange furniture in the future. although sometimes custom sizes are acceptable and possible.

Next is the next step. First you need to process the door block with a primer, before that, clean it with sandpaper. Before the next step, you should try on the future door in the opening to check its size, as well as the direction in which it opens. In addition, we will need a level: with its help, we will need to measure and check the level of verticality and horizontality and, by measuring the diagonals, make sure that all right angles in the structure are observed.

After all these installation measurements, you can proceed directly to the work itself.

We are preparing an opening

The preparation of the doorway is one of the most important stages in this work. The following details how to produce it carefully and correctly:

• First, you should evaluate the door leaf. In other words, it is necessary to initially remove the old door from its hinges, if there is one, but if not, then this stage, of course, is not required.
• It is necessary to remove all door frames, and those voids that were formed between the opening and the door frame and filled with insulating material should be disposed of.
• After all these actions, cuts are usually made in the places of the side parts of the door frame, while moving from top to bottom. The next step is the destruction of the lower, and then the upper elements of this very box. Then do the same with the upper and lower bars.

• Among other things, the preparation of the opening includes fitting to the dimensions of the door itself, which is very important for its reliability. Enlarging the opening usually does not cause any particular difficulties, while expansion will require the use of devices such as a puncher and a grinder.
• In the event that it is required to reduce our opening and quite significantly, a brick is required. With a slight decrease in size (up to about 50 mm), you just need to install a frame in it. It can be made from both metal and ordinary corner.
• This structure then needs to be leveled, gaps filled in it, treated with a cement mortar, if necessary.
• There may be such a problem that the opening loses its appearance during processing. Then it should be leveled and plastered again. In any case, it is always worth checking the condition of the doorway, its evenness and other parameters very carefully.

How to assemble the product yourself?

When we purchase furniture in a hardware or furniture store, the purchase most often is not a construction that is completely ready for installation, but a set of many large elements that you need to work with later on your own. For beginners unprepared in this matter, at first the question often arises of how to assemble the product yourself?

The main problem with this work is this: the cuts and connections of the door components are often unusual and have a specific structure, which can greatly complicate the whole process. But even this problem has a solution.

This article presents the simplest possible scheme for assembling an interior door:

• The first step is to place on the floor (or on another necessarily flat surface) the beam of the door frame, spreading it around the canvas.
• Next, you should form a gap between the door and this very canvas, then you need cardboard from the packaging. After that, it is necessary to attach the blanks of the upper crossbar to the upper ends of the bars of the box, to measure the parameters of the lintel very accurately.
• The next step is to create cuts. They are best made with a hacksaw, which has fine teeth and is specially designed for carving metal surfaces.

• At the next, already fourth stage, you need to attach the upper part of the structure to the bars, lay cardboard to form a gap. Next, we cut off the profile, if it prevents the connection of the elements, we screw the screws into the places for them.
• The last stage - we leave a gap (approximately 0.8-2 cm in size). By analogy, we create the necessary threshold.

How to put the loops right?

Installing hinges on an interior door is an important stage, which has many individual subtleties and nuances. Before this work, which includes such subtleties as tie-in, installation of overhead hinges (as well as non-separable, non-mortise and simple canopies), you should also familiarize yourself with the correct installation instructions for the hinges so that the future design is reliable, serves the owner for a long time and faithfully.

This article describes one way to install hinges, it is called the artisanal method. It is medium in its complexity, while being very reliable and promising durability of the product, besides, it allows you to conveniently adjust the height of the hinges:

• So, first you need to mark the groove. To do this, you need to attach a canopy to the end of the full (or box) and circle it with a simple pencil, there is no difficulty in this.
• Second step: edging with a hammer and chisel. A border should be made along the entire groove, and very evenly and efficiently.

• The last stage: sampling the groove with a chisel. This process requires utmost care and accuracy, because even a slight careless movement of the hand can spoil the appearance of the door surface. There are other, alternative ways to install hinges. For example, a professional method that only professional workers can usually bring to life with their own hands, but the quality of this method is worth it.

As for what you can create with your own hands, there are several ways. Firstly, this is the installation of loops without tie-in. Secondly, non-standard, but very convenient trunnion loops. Thirdly, screw hinges, although they do not have the most aesthetic appearance.

Mounting options

Ease of use depends on many different nuances. One of them is the method of fixing the door and There are several such ways:

• The first known option for fastening a door is the so-called frame system. Its essence is that the door is placed in a steel frame and it can be moved by installing a groove on the wheels.
• The second option is a rail system, which differs from the first one in that instead of wheels or rollers, special rails are used here. They are very reliable and easy to use.

• There are also other ways and options. These include the well-known hinged installation, as well as such unusual methods as the option without self-tapping screws or also without anchors. There are a large number of options for fastening doors, and each person will be able to choose something to his taste.

Do-it-yourself installation: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself door installation includes its own technology, scheme, installation procedure in accordance with GOST. It has its own standards and nuances that you need to know and follow, regardless of whether it is the installation of a box, a sheathing without additional elements or with them, and so on.

Box installation

So, this process has already been discussed in detail above. It is only worth mentioning that this type of repair installation work is one of the most important in the installation and installation of any door, because it can actually be considered the basis of the structure. It is very important to accurately make all the necessary measurements, perform work carefully and observe safety precautions.

Correct installation of the box is the key to a reliable, sturdy construction.

How to insert with extensions?

Dobors are called two vertical racks and 1 horizontal bar, the purpose of which is to increase the size of the so-called box coverage area. That is, they simply expand it.

Usually such products are made from solid wood, as well as from materials such as MDF and fiberboard.

The sequence of work is not very complicated, but such an operation can help in many cases, for example, to install awnings:

• So, first of all, it is necessary to make a groove in the timber with the help of a milling machine along the entire door frame, along its perimeter.
• Next, false slopes need to be attached with glue, and then strengthen this structure with self-tapping screws.

• The next step is to attach the false slopes to the beam, and put the panel at the top on the remaining vertical elements.
• In the middle of the work, you need to match the already enlarged box, install it in the already made opening, for this we use self-tapping screws, as well as spacer wedges.
• Finally, the wedges need to be placed around the perimeter of our door. The distance between the door frame and the door itself must be filled with special foam, cut off the excess. Ready!

Self-set threshold

There are two ways to install such a detail for a door as a threshold. The first is called open, the second, respectively, closed. The first method is quite simple, but still does not look very aesthetically pleasing:

• In this method, first of all, a hole is drilled openly, in which fasteners are then fixed.
• Then the threshold itself is laid, fixed at several points at once with the help of self-tapping screws.

Although the first method is many times faster, the result after the second one looks much prettier and more aesthetic:

• First of all, we fasten the first part of the threshold to the floor with the help of several self-tapping screws.
• The next step is the decoration, we insert the bottom bar into the resulting grooves.
• Another option - a decorative bar is attached to ordinary glue. This completes the threshold setting.

How to align?

Correcting mistakes, such as unevenness in the design, is very important. After the assessment of irregularities is carried out, the door is removed and re-measured in all respects, you need to get straight to work:

• If there are gaps between the floor and the door itself, first of all it is necessary to apply a level approximately 1.2-1.4 meters wide across the door opening. This will help level the surface.
• Also, sometimes in this case, the alignment of the carpet, if present, can help.
• At the end of the work, it is necessary to hang the door again and check its condition.

How to fill gaps?

The gaps between the door and the frame are a common problem that many owners of apartments and houses have to deal with. You can cope with it with the help of ordinary mounting foam, but it is better to choose a better and more expensive one in order to maintain the quality of the work performed longer.

There are also options such as the most common foam rubber and even moss! Another way: heaters sold in any hardware store.

Mounting nuances

Mounting the door, like any other repair work related to furniture, has many different nuances that you should definitely pay attention to the owners of the door:

• For example, to install a door in a deep or very large opening, you need to either purchase additional extensions, or also install the second door structure. Also in this case, it is worth considering the option of buying and installing heavier doors.
• In order to correctly, reliably and efficiently install the door at the corner of the room, you need to take into account that the box must be installed at a special required angle, you should also pay special attention to cutting bricks into a brick opening and fastening the structure of this very box, since this may cause some Problems.
• With different wall thicknesses, it is necessary either to make all measurements very accurately, or to align them before installing the door or mounting.

• In a panel house, when choosing materials and structures for the work itself, it is worth paying special attention to wall internal expanded clay concrete panels.
• To equip a door in the opening of a load-bearing wall is a very difficult task, and in this process one should not forget these important points: the material used to build a house or create an apartment, the layout of the room and the apartment or the house as a whole, the condition of the floors, as well as the thickness and other parameters of the wall .

Installation in some cases is a very difficult type of work, but following these tips, you can handle everything perfectly and without much difficulty.

Finishing

Finishing is a very simple, practical and convenient way to decorate and transform an interior door or even the entire interior of an apartment, house or cottage. There are several main types of interior door finishing: installation of such a structure as slopes, decoration and installation of a door frame or door leaf, installation of platbands and, finally, laminate finishing.

Finishing slopes is not the most difficult, but the dirtiest and most unpleasant type of design. For it, you will need a primer, different types of putty (starting and finishing), corners, a mesh for plasters. With the help of these tools, you need to putty and clean the door, its slopes.

Designs that can decorate and transform a door beyond recognition are a door frame, platbands, a door leaf. These options, as a rule, do not take much time and effort, but still require extreme accuracy, patience and compliance with special rules.

How to check if the installation is correct?

In order to check the correct installation of the door, you need to perform several simple, but at the same time very important actions for its further operation:

• In no case should the door creak, the hinges should move easily and stand firmly, opening the door should not present any difficulties.
• When opening the structure at an angle of any size, it should stand straight, not stagger, not deviate.
• It is necessary to conduct a very careful external inspection of the door, check it in operation, carefully consider every detail of the structure.

Beautiful interiors

There are a lot of different interior options for interior doors. For example, a door in a white, light, neutral color is perfect for bright rooms or apartments with a minimalist design. Bright, for example, red doors will perfectly fit into non-standard interiors.

The installation instructions for interior doors allow you to install such structures on your own without much difficulty. You just need to strictly follow its points.

Thank you for your help in creating the article of our partners: Porta prima interior doors factory - www.portaprima.ru

Door structures between rooms in an apartment or a private house cannot be called very complex technical systems. However, their assembly and installation require knowledge of a number of nuances. Firstly, a self-installed door should not spontaneously open. Secondly, it must close without excessive effort. Thirdly, door structures must have a certain strength and not fall apart in cases where they are mounted in the dwellings of "lovers" to slam the doors.

Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages:

1. Assembly of the supporting structural element - the box.
2. Installation of the canvas, and then the box beam (a handle, hinges and other fittings are attached to it).
3. Aligning the box in the door and fixing it securely.
4. Canvas hanging.
5. Finishing of doors with platbands.

Types of interior doors

A conventional door block consists of two elements - a leaf and a box. The latter is made of hinged and feigned timber, as well as lintels. If you will be installing doors with a threshold, the box is complemented by a special bottom bar. The door leaf in most cases is hung on two hinges. There are systems with three loops, but they are used extremely rarely. The set of door blocks, as a rule, includes platbands. If the manufacturer does not provide any, you will need to purchase them separately.

In situations where the door frame is smaller in width than the door opening, you need to purchase extensions or trim the walls with flashings or slopes that are more elegant in terms of design. Here you need to know that professionals do not advise plastering slopes if you do the installation of structures made of wood materials (for example, MDF) with your own hands. Such doors are simply deformed after applying a plaster composition to them.

An excessively wide opening is often reduced with a wooden beam. Its dimensions should correspond to the "extra" width. Such a beam is installed from the side of the door pillar, where its hinges are located. The beam is attached to the rack with small cross-section universal self-tapping screws, and it is connected to the wall with anchors. Do-it-yourself installation of interior structures with your own hands is recommended after pre-finishing the premises (it is understood that you have leveled the walls, carefully and accurately puttyed them, and then plastered them).

Reducing the doorway with a wooden beam

In other words, the assembly and installation of doors is carried out after the completion of all, without exception, "wet" finishing work.

Otherwise, there is a high probability that the system may "float" from high humidity. Be sure to equip the rough flooring, as well as determine the thickness and type of finish floor that you will do. Without this, you will not be able to accurately mount the door frame to the height of the threshold. If you just decided to change the interior doors in a room where no repairs are being carried out, the latest recommendations do not matter.

It is very important to install the racks correctly. A door frame is attached to them. If you install it on crooked racks, the operational functionality of such a door will be minimal. Rack preparation is carried out as follows:

1. The upper parts of the racks must be cut with a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw.
2. On the inside of the rack, measure the required length (it consists of the bottom gap, the height of the door leaf and the top gap). The lower gap is usually taken to be about 1 cm, the upper one - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.
3. Now you start processing the lintel. Measure the desired length on the inside. The required length will include the width of the leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the side of the hinges. Get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.

Installation of interior door racks

Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or a miter box). This procedure is done at a 45° angle. Next up are the door hinges. Their installation should be done as carefully as possible. It is important to determine the exact value of their depth and the distance between the lower and upper edges of the door leaf. The scheme of work is as follows:

1. We measure on the rack (on the inside) from the top edge a distance of 20 cm.
2. We apply the loop to the selected area, outline its contour (use a regular pencil).
3. When folded, the hinge leaves a free space (gap) from the rack to the canvas of 0.4 cm. We calculate the installation depth of the fitting element, taking into account its thickness.
4. With a chisel (or better with a milling cutter) we make a platform for the loop.
5. Similarly, we determine the size and location of the installation of the lower hinge. But in this case, the value of the lower gap (1 cm) must be added to 20 cm.
6. Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply this design to the canvas and make marks about the areas where the hinges are located.
7. It remains to make seats for the loop elements.

You have accomplished a difficult task on your own. Now you can deal with the box and platbands. More on this later.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly and installation

Installing the box yourself will be quite simple if you follow the workflow below. You need:

1. Attach (strictly perpendicular) with a stand to the lintel. If you are installing an interior product made of MDF, in order to avoid cracking it, you must first make holes with a drill and only then install self-tapping screws. Important! Holes are made of a smaller section than the diameter of the hardware used.
2. Put the box in the opening, and then fix it securely using spacers and wedges.
3. Take the building level and align it along the horizontal and vertical plane of the structure. After that, feel free to use self-tapping screws.
4. Hang the door on the hinges. It can be inconvenient to perform such a procedure on your own, so call an assistant. After hanging, check the quality of installation, eliminate certain installation defects, if any.
5. Close the interior door, install spacers of suitable sizes between the uprights and the canvas. They will save the box from squeezing out when blowing foam.

The last step is to fill the gap between the wall and the door frame. When the foam hardens, the spacers will need to be removed. You just have to install the platbands with your own hands. Everything is simple here - you file an angle of 45 ° and mount the elements in their place. Fastening of installed platbands is recommended: self-tapping screws; special nails (they are called finishing); on glue.

It is advisable to cover the tops of the self-tapping screws with decorative plastic caps. And nail heads are usually overwritten. Congratulations, you installed interior doors on your own, saving a lot of money on the services of specialists!

Repairs in the house will have an unfinished look without the installation of such an interior element as doors. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

• Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
• Preparation of the opening for the installation of a new door.
• Installation of hinges and lock on the door leaf.
• Assembly of the door frame.
• Installation of additional elements.
• Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
• Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
• Fixing the structure with mounting foam.
• Fastening fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

• hammer;
• chisels 16 and 20 mm;
• roulette;
• crowbar;
• level;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• wood saw with fine teeth;
• miter box;
• drill and perforator;
• if possible, a milling machine, circular.

Materials for door installation:

• door leaf and door frame;
• door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
• mounting foam;
• wedges;
• nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before you install the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we will dismantle it. To do this, with the help of a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the trim. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to take it out, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate the installation of the door, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, buying

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose the smallest size.

We lay the floor covering for the correct installation of the box

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. The installation of doors is recommended to be done after laying the floor covering, if there is none yet, then the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door should be included in the dimensions. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and puttied, you can order doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in the house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - this is strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several designs of doors - solid, paneled and smooth.

smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and method of sheathing. The most practical and affordable are the doors sheathed with laminate. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors are distinguished by their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of precious woods or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft woods, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from precious woods. This affects primarily their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the desired doors and received them, we proceed to the phased installation of the doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, extensions, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not embedded, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place for attaching the hinges and the lock on the door leaf and vertical rack. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. In order not to damage the canvas, the inside of the coasters is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and mark the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, we measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We attach the loops and outline the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal bar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the tongue of the lock and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. Attach hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for a lock and loops after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and two hinges will be enough for interior doors.

Hinge and lock installation

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected by the cutter, you can proceed with their installation.

With loops, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, as a stencil, holes for handles, valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to collect the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical racks and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a large free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we lay two or three wooden slats under the racks for the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the racks. The joints can be lightly tapped with a hammer for a better connection, and with the help of a screwdriver we fix the box, screwing the screws into the corner joints.

Important! There are doors with a ready-assembled door frame. The installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

In the event that the width of the door is several centimeters less than the door slope, extensions should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, strips of the same color as the door are used, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical slats of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal slat of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the trim strips in the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks to the slope with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each rack and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination with light strokes on the wedges. Now you can fix the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and fasten the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the loops to the previously prepared places. For this, the so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece loops, but they are used less often. In the case of a hinged rod, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow lifting the doors, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply fix them on the box, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable rod, you must remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in the air, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or directs them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all the small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and easy to apply to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, the door frame should be protected from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with a film or masking tape. If, nevertheless, the foam has got on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and scuffs.

Mounting foam has the ability to increase in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least one minute before filling with foam. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outside of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply mounting foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours, you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess mounting foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the foam spray tube can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, to fill all voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create a support for itself. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of the door installation, the platbands are installed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same trimming at 45 degrees for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal mounting glue.

Applying glue to the trim

Installing a trim on a door frame

Technological progress has replaced the once cumbersome entry gates used by our ancestors with convenient, practical doors. The need to constantly move stones and other heavy objects back and forth many times during the day to block the opening and protect it from the weather disappeared with the invention of canopies.

Modern doors tend to be installed for decades. How to assemble and install them correctly is an important question after all the parts are bought and laid out on the floor!

The order of work for the home master

The door is not just a plank blocking the entry hole. It is also not an archaic design. Nevertheless, after assembly and installation, it must meet a number of requirements:

• Open - close without significant effort, creak and rattle;
• Do not fall apart when slammed after nervous breakdowns;
• Do not open on its own;
• Not to be so thin, fragile that even a child will pierce it with a pen when he decides to draw on it.

We fasten the canvas to the canopies. Let's see what happened. We check the absence of distortions in the gaps. We glue the entire installed structure around the perimeter with construction tape.

We foam the free cavities between the wall and the box in several passes, first in several places (at 4-6 points of the internal gaps of the structure) we place pieces of cardboard so that the door does not jam and it can open freely.

We are waiting for complete drying, we do nothing more yet. We do not open, we do not check.

We upholster platbands along the contour of the door, hiding unaesthetic seams.

Thus, an interior door was installed with their own hands. Gained experience that can now be used to refine other doorways.

Photo of the process of installing interior doors with your own hands

Every owner wants to save money on building a house or renovating an apartment. Therefore, more and more homeowners tend to do many repair and construction work on their own. Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors will help to save a lot.

There is nothing difficult in these works even for a novice master. You just need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and watch the video.

How to install interior doors made of natural wood or MDF? These doors are in high demand due to their good quality at an affordable cost.

There is a certain order of actions:

1. Unpack the purchased door set and door frames. Everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure.
2. Assemble the door frame. The kit for this includes 3 components and 1 tie bar, which will be used for short-term fixation.

It is more convenient to assemble on a flat floor, laying a soft substrate. Gable panels have inserts (plastic inserts). They are hammered into special grooves. They must be carefully knocked out so as not to damage the loot. Use wood blocks for this, since it is impossible to knock on fragile plastic inserts with a hammer.

• Fasten all parts of the door fixed base according to the “groove to groove” scheme, giving it a U-shape. It is necessary to observe strict geometry, inaccuracies during assembly should not be allowed. Fasten the frame with inserts previously knocked out of the grooves, hammering them into the formed holes. Work with a hammer, but carefully.

If the parts of the box have shifted when the inserts are hammered in, then you need to correctly align the case with a hammer, placing a wooden plank.

Think about the direction of opening the doors. It all depends on the layout.

Advice! In the bathroom, pantry, and closet, outward-opening doors are best, as an inward-opening door will reduce an already small space. Doors to large rooms (living room, bedroom, office) should, on the contrary, be made to open inward, otherwise the door leaf will interfere in the aisles and hallway.

• In the future, you will need some tools for work:

1. drill;
2. screwdriver;
3. end saw and chisel;
4. milling head;
5. building level;
6. dowels, tape measure and mounting foam.

Having collected the top of the box, you need to go to the lower zone. A tightening plate from the purchased set will come in handy, with which to fix the width of the door frame along the bottom. Screw it with screws in those areas that will later be embedded in the wall. Screw the screws at an angle, starting work not from the very edge, otherwise you can easily split the bar.

• Adjust the loot to the size of the doorway. Usually the length of factory doors is 5–6 cm longer than standard openings. After measuring the opening, cut the bottom of the box with a miter saw.

When determining the size of the doorway, you need to take into account the height of the threshold (if any) or its absence (when an interior door without a threshold is provided).

• For fitting, insert the door leaf into the assembled box lying on the floor without removing the cellophane from it. It is enough just to cut it off in the area of ​​​​the handles and the castle.
• Mount the finished box, fitted in all respects, into the opening and, using the building level, install it perfectly evenly. Screw the box to the opening with wood screws, screwing them at an angle in those areas that will then be closed with foam and door trim.

If the doorway is not made of wood or drywall sheets, where there are wooden blocks, then dowels or similar fastening materials will have to be used for fastening.

It is impossible to fasten the door frame through the front side, so as not to spoil its appearance and not to impede the operation (opening / closing) of the door over time.

Foam the crevices between the opening and the box later, using dry finishing mixtures, make a slope in this place.

• While the foam hardens, you can start installing hinges and handles on the moving part of the door, as well as inserting the lock. Mark a place for the castle on the pediment and outline the outline according to its shape. With a router saw, carefully remove the top wood layer until the face of the lock is even with the door leaf.

For the inside of the lock, use a drill with a suitable drill to make a deeper recess.

Fix the lock with the fasteners provided in the set, harmonious in color and style with locks, hinges, door, plugs and door handles. To do this, insert the core of the lock into the drilled socket, put handles on it on both sides and clamp everything with fasteners.

The time has come to install the loops, the pins of which should look up, after which the canvas is put on. Work like a lock. Make sure that the loops are on the same level with the canvas.

• Return to the loot, mark and hang the hinges, determine the place where the lock enters, make a hole with a chisel and fix the plug.
• Hang the door leaf.

Everywhere where a wood mass was drilled, cut and sawn, it is necessary to cover its bare places with paint in a general tone or varnish. This will not only improve the appearance, but also preserve the wooden surface.

If desired, you can easily install an interior door yourself.

Factory door sets are made to a typical wall thickness of about 7-8 cm for city apartments. Why do homeowners, where the walls are thicker, have to adapt to industrial sizes

With a wall thickness of 25 cm or more, the openings not covered by the door jamb are covered with plaster, plastic or plasterboard slopes. Up to 25 cm, you can install interior doors with extensions, which is much faster and easier.

Dobor (additional boards) is a frame expander, which, together with the casing, plays an aesthetic role, hiding uneven surfaces, making the door much stronger and preventing it from warping.

It is made from grooved and edged boards for thick walls or from aircraft plywood (subsequently decorated with self-adhesive film) for very thick walls. The extension, assembled from 3 components, copies the letter P in shape and is attached (you can use PVA glue):

• to the door frame;
• to the wall in the opening zone;
• on a vertical beam between the extension and the opening.

Benefits of add-ons:

• speed of assembly and installation of the door block;
• the absence of "wet" finishing works, which are undesirable for wood;
• extending the life of doors.

Briefly about loops. Factory products are often sold with hinges already attached. Then the issue of installing loops is not the key. But sometimes you have to install them yourself. This is where many people think about whether to use classic loops or butterflies.

Butterfly loop from the category of non-cut elements, i.e. when using it, you do not need to cut grooves. This is a plus.

Attention! But this design does not make it possible to quickly remove the doors if necessary. You will have to unscrew the hinges, and this is inconvenient during repair work or when bringing in or taking out furniture.

Butterflies are easy to install, however, when choosing this type of hinge, you need to know: even a minimal deviation due to a possible defect in the door leaf or the hinge itself will lead to the fact that the doors will not close tightly. That is why you need to be extremely careful when working with butterflies.

Decide which hinges to install, the owner. Butterflies are more suitable for light doors, and for massive heavy doors, it is better to choose the classic version, since it provides a stronger connection, thanks to which the classic hinges are able to hold more weight.

Installation of sliding interior doors

Recently, not ordinary hinged interior doors are in great demand, but sliding doors (slider), which slide along the rails or drive to the side (into the opening, pencil case, wall) on rollers.

They are of two types:

• a sliding accordion door, consisting of small plastic or wooden slats, which, when easily moved, save space;
• a door built into a pencil case or a wall, working according to the wardrobe technology.

On a note! Inexpensive accordion doors are not practical. Sliding doors of any modification are usually accompanied by step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer for their assembly.

Advantages of sliding doors:

• custom design:
• more space in the room for furniture;
• safety;
• do not open spontaneously in drafts.

The disadvantages include:

• poor noise and sound insulation, as well as the penetration of odors, but this can be easily eliminated by installing a felt gasket on the pediment;
• the difficulty in repairing it and in caring for the surface where the door moves;
• the high cost of installation, but if the installation of sliding interior doors is done by hand, then the costs are practically no higher than when setting up swing doors.

Two-leaf interior doors

In large apartments or houses where there is a lot of space, the owners often prefer double doors between rooms (hinged or sliding). Installation of double doors of any version is also simple, but has its own specifics.

Set the crossbar (espagnolette) before inserting the loops. On each leaf, cut the hinges into the door itself and into the side post. Remove the fragment made earlier.

• Hang the first door on the hinges, aligning it in level, as with the installation of a single-leaf hinged door. After that, carefully hang the second one, adjusting it in accordance with the first one, mark the place for the second beam and fix it with self-tapping screws.
• After making sure that both sashes are level relative to each other, foam the seams. When solidified, the foam increases many times in volume, so it is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient.
• Before inserting the handles, fix the striker mating plate in the door frame.
• The flashing (embossed profile rail) is nailed, smeared initially with hot-melt adhesive for greater strength, and platbands are installed.

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not difficult. It is important to consistently perform all installation steps.