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How to install plastic panels on walls without. Fastening pvc panels to the wall without crates. Fastening plastic panels to the wall on the frame

The article will have two step-by-step instructions for do-it-yourself installation. We will tell you how to properly install MDF, chipboard and PVC elements in different ways. It is these materials that are most often used in. They are light, cheap relative to other designs, but at the same time strong enough, create sound and heat insulation. Plastic and wood-fiber boards are moisture resistant, easy to clean, which is especially important for the entire room as a whole.

How to choose an installation option and what tools you need to prepare for work

There are two ways to attach the planks: on the crate and directly on the wall. Assess the condition of the kitchen. If there is very little space in it, it is better to choose the second option, since the first one takes up a tangible area.

If the room is medium or large, you are in luck. You can do without serious additional work and mount wall panels on a wooden frame. Not even necessary. True, if there are a lot of greasy stains or even mold on the surface, it is better to process it. Another advantage of the technology is that you can hide the wiring inside.

List of tools

For work you may need:

• A bar, slats or a metal profile, if you will be making a crate.
• Primer, plaster, brushes, spatula, etc., if you need to close up irregularities.
• if needed. Styrofoam or other heat-insulating material is suitable.
• Hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Screwdriver.
• Hacksaw.
• Pencil or marker.
• Building level and tape measure.
• stapler.
• Liquid nails or thick wood glue. Sometimes sheets can be attached to them.
• Square.
• Staples and nails.
• Kleimers for MDF.
• Self-tapping screws for sheathing.
• Self-tapping screws or dowels for the crate.
• Ladder.
• Plinths, platbands, corners.

This set of tools is suitable for both plastic structures and elements made of MDF, chipboard.

Do-it-yourself preparation for the installation of MDF and PVC wall panels

First you need to choose a material. Let's talk a little about the possibilities of each of them. You already know about the pros: moisture resistance, economy, lightness, easy installation. But cheap types of plastic can not withstand temperature changes and melt or scratch from an abrasive sponge, cleaning agent. They are not recommended to be installed above the stove.

The same, but to a lesser extent, applies to . There are improved models that do not have these shortcomings. For example, products from postforming. This is a more durable type of chipboard with increased moisture resistance and heat resistance. As for decoration, the choice in stores is quite large. Everyone will find a pattern and texture to taste.

How to calculate the required amount of materials

Finding out is easy enough. It is necessary to calculate the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls and subtract from it the quadrature of windows and doors. Then - multiply the width of the selected part by its height. Divide the first value by the second and add 10% for the margin.

Rules for the use of plastic strips

There are not many restrictions.

• If the PVC has been exposed to temperatures below +10°, warm it up before attaching it to the surface. This will take at least half an hour.
• The temperature in the room during installation must also be above +10°.
• Do not take out all the sheets at once in order to preserve their presentation.

How to fix the wall panel in the kitchen to the crate

The workflow is divided into three stages. Starting point - marking.

markup

Using a building level, tape measure and pencil, draw the surface of the wall where the crate will be located. Usually, the main frame is screwed around the perimeter, and horizontally or vertically located rails are screwed onto it. The distance between the jumpers should be 50-60 cm for MDF, chipboard and 30-40 for PVC elements (this allows you to increase the strength of the structure, the plastic will not bend much).

Cutting and assembling the frame

Most often, the frame is made of wood, as it is more economical than plastic or metal profiles. Wall panels in the kitchen are fastened to rails with a cross section of at least 20 * 20 mm, without bends and other defects. Before installation, they must be treated with an antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation. After the tree dries out (it will take about one day), you can get to work. The distance of the lower part from the floor should be 1-2 cm.

• Install the base - four slats around the perimeter. If necessary, leveling bars are placed under it.
• Attach additional rails with self-tapping screws or screws. Do not spare fasteners so that the design is reliable.
• If thermal insulation was provided, lay the material in the resulting cells. MDF can also be insulated with foam.

The metal crate is considered the most reliable. It is made according to a similar principle, but the process is more complicated. This video shows a detailed example of installing such a profile.

With plastic guides, as with wooden ones, everything is quite simple. According to preliminary marking, they are attached to the wall with dowels. The elements must be located perpendicular to the PVC sheets.

Creating a frame is the most time-consuming step. When it is finished, you can proceed to the final part of the work.

sheathing

Planks can be fixed on the frame horizontally and vertically. Masters advise starting the installation from the bottom and from the corner to the window or doors. If the upper part has to be cut off, then it can be hidden behind the wall set.

Instruction step by step

• Trim the sheets if necessary.
• Attach the corner element with self-tapping screws and close the corner.
• A plastic corner bar is inserted into a pre-installed corner and attached to the frame with a stapler.
• Insert the second sheet into the groove of the first and attach it to the profile with clamps, self-tapping screws, glue or staples.

At the final stage, mount. In the video, a visual principle of installing the frame and PVC strips.

How to install a wall panel in a small kitchen with your own hands

If the wall is even, the material can be glued directly onto it. This is not the easiest way and it has several disadvantages.

• It will not work quickly and simply to remove the structure.
• Under the influence of temperature changes, moisture, it can peel off.
• disappears

To give the room an aesthetic appearance, while keeping within a modest budget framework, you can use plastic panels from various materials. This method is very practical, since before fixing the plastic wall panels, it is not necessary to level the surface of the walls with plaster or other methods.

The implementation of this type of finish is possible even without experience in the repair and construction industry. However, it is important to follow the sequence of fastening the elements, having previously studied the features of their installation. The quality and method of performing the task depends on the type of material chosen: plastic, wood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF, PVC.

Choice of plastic panels

The method of installing wall panels is selected depending on the type of cladding material. One of the most popular types is PVC, which has been significantly improved in recent years. If the first samples did not differ in quality - they gave glare from the light of the sun or chandeliers, turned yellow over time, then modern products are characterized by durability, easy to use and environmentally friendly.

In addition, with the help of PVC, many design solutions can be realized. Manufacturers offer both single-color and multi-color products. It is also possible to sheathe the walls with mirrored or matte panels, panels with 3-D patterns, with ordinary patterns, including textured ones.

One of the main advantages of plastic panels is resistance to direct water ingress. Other types of finishing materials have a greater degree of vulnerability to moisture. Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to take into account the level of humidity in the room:

• wood panels can be made from oak, alder, maple or cedar. These are quite expensive materials. With high-quality processing with special protective agents, they can be used in the kitchen or bathroom. A budget option for finishing using natural materials is the use of combined wood, where expensive woods serve as the base layer, and the remaining layers are made of spruce or pine.
• Fiberboard panels have a long service life. Easy to clean, safe for health, resistant to moisture, but not recommended for use in areas where there is a possibility of direct contact with water.
• Chipboard is a material vulnerable to moisture and temperature extremes. It tends to crumble during processing. Recommended for use in dry rooms.
• MDF is a material made by pressing fine chips. Thanks to the technology used, the material has no restrictions depending on humidity. The component has high strength, which allows it to withstand significant loads (shelves or other furniture elements can be hung). Also, MDF panels have heat and sound insulating properties.

Wall sheathing with PVC panels - how to fix

To complete the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• plastic panels and corners;
• plastic guides;
• kleimers;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• stapler;
• pencil, square, hacksaw and tape measure.

Before fixing pvc wall panels, it is necessary to install and level the guides. To do this, you need to make holes for the dowels, then insert them, fix the guides with screws. The distance between the guides is 50-60 cm.

The next step is to install the panels. Corners are attached to the corners of the room with brackets. Installation of products is carried out, starting from the corner, moving towards the window or door opening from left to right. The installation sequence is as follows:

• the side bar of the panel is inserted into the groove of the inner corner;
• the mounting shelf of the product is fixed on the frame with brackets;
• a spike of the second is inserted into the groove of the fixed first panel, and its mounting shelf is attached similarly to the previous one - on the frame with the help of brackets;
• all subsequent panels are installed by analogy with the first and second;
• the closing bar must fit into the groove of the corner;
• after installing all the components, you need to install the skirting boards. They close the joints between walls, floor and ceiling.

When laying products, it is necessary to check the verticality of each element until it is fixed on the frame. The planks should be installed close to each other, and if necessary, you can adjust the length of the PVC panel by cutting it with a fine-toothed saw.

How to fix MDF panels

By analogy, before attaching the MDF wall panels, you should prepare the frame. Wooden planks are installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels and coated with a fire retardant compound. The distance between the frame elements is 50 cm.

• First you need to mark the walls with a level and a tape measure.
• Next, fasten the planks with nails, placing them vertically or horizontally, depending on the direction of fastening the panels.
• Installation of products is carried out from the corner. The first panel is fastened with a comb to the corner and must be installed with strict horizontal alignment. This is important as this panel is a guide for the others. Fastening is carried out with a bracket fixed in the center of the frame bar.
• Then you can proceed with the installation of the remaining elements, making sure that each subsequent part is closely attached to the previous one. In addition, each panel must be checked for horizontality before fixing to the crate. With the right markup, there should be no problems.

After the installation of the MDF panels is completed, the finishing should be completed by fixing the corners and finishing strips in their respective places. Fastening is carried out with glue, bolts or staples.

Soft crate

An alternative to a frame made of metal or wood can be a crate based on double-sided foam tape. Such material, despite the apparent unreliability, has a fairly high characteristics of strength and durability.

The adhesive layer is viscous and resilient, and its composition is ideal for holding plastic products. For a good result, it is important to comply with the following conditions:

• thoroughly clean the surface from previous finishing materials (wallpaper, paint);
• cover the wall with a layer of rough putty 2-4 mm thick. Minor surface irregularities are allowed;
• use a high-quality finishing profile;
• minimize the contact of the adhesive layer with air.

With a fairly simple installation of panels on such a crate, you should avoid using this method for installing such products in the kitchen, in the children's room or in the gym. This is due, of course, to humidity, significant effects on the surface and some toxicity of the material. Good luck!

The modern market offers a huge number of varieties, sizes and design options for PVC panels, so they can be matched to any interior style. PVC panels are inexpensive, quickly mounted, operated for a long time, and most importantly, they will help to equip a unique, unlike anything room design. How to fix plastic panels to the wall: on glue, on screws, on the crate? Which panels to choose and which installation method to prefer, we will analyze all these issues in detail in our article.

Why PVC bathroom panels have become the number one competitor to tiles? It's all about ease of installation. Laying tiles even on the most even base is beyond the power of a person who has never done this. You will need the services of a specialist to level and strengthen the base, mark the wall and lay out the tiles row by row, observing the levels and width of the tile joint. In addition, the cutting of tiles itself, if necessary, requires special tools and certain skills.

With PVC panels, everything is much simpler. They have a lot of advantages:

1. Light in weight: their transportation to the house and installation do not cause any difficulties.
2. Exists several mounting methods from simple wall stickers to purlin systems, each of which can be handled even by a layman.
3. Panels biologically sustainable and during operation, the appearance of fungus on them is excluded.

In addition, it is possible to note such advantages of plastic products as moisture resistance, hygiene, duration of operation And inexpensive cost. Of course, they also have their own characteristics. For example, despite the presence of stiffeners in the design of the product and the thickness of the plastic, which is quite large for some manufacturers, the panels are quite brittle material. and with an accidental strong point impact, they can break through. Therefore, when buying, you need to choose the most durable products of European manufacturers.

However, if the lining is of good quality, then when bathing, for example, you can rely on it as much as you like: it has sufficient flexibility and elasticity to support the weight of a person.

When choosing products, you should look at such technical characteristics as:

• plastic thickness (the more, the more reliable);
• the presence and number of stiffeners;
• when viewed under artificial lighting on the front plane, transverse ribs should not be visible;
• the surface must be intact, undamaged, not scratched, the film on the front plane must not be damaged;
• plastic from the ends should not be with burrs and microcracks.

There are several types of PVC panels, differing in size and other parameters.

Table 1. Types of PVC panels.

Name	Peculiarities	Dimensions
Ceiling	Thinner thicknesses up to 5 mm
Wall	Thicker and tougher up to 10mm thick	width 15-50 mm, length 90-300 mm
Rack	Narrow planks with shaped edges, similar to lining, have a thorn-groove locking connection	width 13-50 mm, length 90-300 mm
leafy	Large rectangular sheets with a relief or pattern on the outside	width 50-122 mm, length 30-98 mm
Tiled	Tile	width 30-98 mm, length 30-98 mm
Sandwich	Double-layer, with a heat-insulating layer, the thickness can reach 4 cm	width 90-150 mm, length 300 mm

In width, standard wall panels are most often found 25cm and 37cm, length - 2700cm, 3000cm. Different manufacturers may produce products of different sizes. The difference in price depends on various factors: the quality and thickness of the plastic, the type of decor printing, its complexity, etc.

Polyvinyl chloride panels are divided into several types according to their coating. They are:

• monochrome;
• colored, with a dye added to the mass;
• mirror;
• with an image pasted on a thermal film;
• with a pattern applied by offset;
• with one image spaced into several panels, forming a panel.

According to the method of connection, the products can be seamless and with a recess. Of course, when joining seamless panels, the seam still remains visible, but hardly noticeable. If the products are chamfered, then the seams are more highlighted and create a certain geometry of the room.

In addition, a wide range of accessories for fastening elements is offered: start and F-shaped profiles, internal and external corners, joint profiles, skirting boards. The use of fittings allows you to give an aesthetic appearance to the joints, and of course it is used for a more reliable and simple fastening.

Find out what types, and also read the step-by-step instructions for finishing in a special article on our portal.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Installation

To carry out the calculation, you first need to determine the direction of installation. Products can be attached horizontally And vertically. Vertical placement is preferred for small spaces such as hallways, kitchens, and bathrooms. With this method of finishing, the ceiling visually rises due to vertical lines. Horizontal installation is more often used for finishing spacious rooms, for example, at camp sites, in hostels. It resembles a traditional horizontal finish, especially if the panels are matched, for example, under a tree.

Panels can be fixed in three ways:

• on any adhesive composition;
• on self-tapping screws;
• on the crate.

The first method is the easiest, simplest and fastest, but only applies if the base is sufficiently level. The second is also not particularly difficult, but requires skill in handling a screwdriver. In this case, the panels can be dismantled over time and moved to another location. The method of fastening to the crate is the most durable, time-consuming and capital. Thus, the cladding can be firmly mounted on uneven surfaces.

The selected mounting option does not affect the order of events when mounting the plates directly:

• fittings are installed: initial and finishing strip, internal and external corners;
• fittings are installed along the openings;
• the panel is inserted with a narrow shelf into the fastening element. Fastened from the side of a wide shelf with self-tapping screws. Elements must be mounted tightly;
• the final panel must be squeezed between the one in front of it and the finishing element of the row. The excess can be trimmed neatly along with a knife;
• joints with the ceiling are covered with ceiling, joints with the floor - with floor plinths.

How to glue panels

Bonding - the easiest way finishing the room with panels, which is allowed either in the event that when the wall is perfectly flat or when the leased premises are being renovated according to the principle and so it will do, clean and okay. It will be quite difficult to dismantle such a finish in the future and it certainly will not be possible to use it for re-assembly.

The panels are glued to a flat or slightly uneven base. Previously, to improve adhesion, it is necessary to remove and clean out all the bumps and weak layers of the previous finish. Then plaster and putty uneven places. Then prime the surface to improve adhesion. The finished base for gluing the cladding must be even, dry, clean.

Apply the adhesive to the wall, spread it evenly with a notched trowel and gently press the panel against the wall. The duration and force of pressing usually depend on the adhesive and are indicated on the packaging or in the instructions for use. Also apply glue to the next panel, then it should be carefully docked with the previous one and pressed to the base. Thus, you can quickly get a beautiful decorative coating.

Video - Installation of PVC panels with glue

As for the adhesive for panels, modern manufacturers offer just a huge selection of adhesives. You can list the most popular:

• quality liquid nails;
• liquid nails and Titan Wild glue;
• Emfikol 34012A;
• Kleiberit 636.

Prices for liquid nails

Liquid Nails

The above adhesives are resistant to high humidity and temperature fluctuations. The facing materials glued to them will hold for the entire period of operation.

Advice! If there is a choice, it is better to choose the most quickly setting adhesives - for example, liquid nails. Then you don't have to wait for a while until the first panel grabs to start gluing the second one.

Installation of PVC panels on self-tapping screws

This mounting method also includes a sufficiently level base. Although the requirements for the surface condition are less than when working with glue. No need to remove greasy stains from the wall and treat it with a primer to increase adhesion. However, to improve the quality of work and increase the speed of installation, a screwdriver is required. However, today screwdrivers can be bought even for one and a half thousand rubles, so this installation method can be called quite budgetary.

As for self-tapping screws, you can opt for wood screws with a wide notch. Length 16 mm will ensure proper fixation to the wall. If finishing is planned bathroom, you should opt for galvanized, that won't rust during operation. Do not choose self-tapping screws with a wide hat, it can interfere with docking.

The process itself is extremely simple. From the inside, the screws are screwed into the bottom of the lock, where they will not interfere with the fixation of the next panel. The next strip is inserted into the lock, pressed and fastened with self-tapping screws from the inside. All subsequent parts are attached in the same way.

Attention! Be sure to check where the wiring goes in the wall. To do this, you can use inexpensive devices such as indicator screwdrivers, signaling devices or metal detectors.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

How to fix panels to an uneven wall on a crate - step by step instructions

If the wall is very uneven, and living in the apartment is supposed to be long, you can’t do without crates. There are 3 types of crate systems: wooden, metal and plastic. Wooden - this is an option for the most extreme case. The tree is not suitable for the bathroom - it will swell from moisture, for the same reason you should not use it on the loggia. Therefore, the best option is galvanized profiles for drywall with a width 40mm.

The only drawback of the traditional crate fastening is that it eats 3-4 cm of usable area at each wall. But under it, you can lay communication cables, as well as make a soundproof layer in the apartment or a heat-insulating layer on the loggia.

A good variety of a convenient and easy-to-assemble crate system is plastic mounting strips and plates - kleimers. This is a special fastening system designed for PVC cladding. Fastening is carried out as quickly and simply as possible: the plate snaps into the groove on the profile with clamps. No other fastener is used. If necessary, such a finish is instantly disassembled: just pry it with a screwdriver. Installation of the entire cladding in a room of 15 squares with such a system will take no more than a day.

The advantages of plastic crates are obvious. Firstly, in case of damage to one panel, it can be pulled out and replaced for this no need to disassemble the whole structure. Secondly, if the house shrinks, or if it is a country house, and also during seasonal shifts cladding will retain its solidity. Thirdly, such a crate eats only 1 centimeter from every wall.

For bathrooms and kitchens, the best option is a ready-made plastic crate system sold in construction departments. It does not deform due to high humidity and temperature fluctuations, does not rot or crack. Galvanization is also a great solution to the problem. It is also permissible to use wood blocks, but before starting work, they must be treated several times with special impregnations from decay.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to mount the crate:

Step 1. We clean the wall from crumbling old finishes. You don't need to level it.

Step 2 We process the surface of the wall with antifungal compounds.

Step 3 We mark the places for the slats of the crate structure. They should be perpendicular to the PVC panels. If they are mounted vertically, then the crate is mounted horizontally. The spacing of the bars should be 30-35 cm.

Step 4 We fasten the bars at the beginning and at the end of the wall, around openings, niches and other structural elements of the room. Then the rest. The whole system is attached to the dowels. IN concrete put 6*40mm, V brick 6*60mm in increments of about 60cm.

Step 5 We align the crate with a plumb line in one plane. To do this, at first the fasteners are not completely twisted, and if necessary, thin plywood is stuck under the planks to the required level. After alignment, the fasteners can be tightened. For attachment, you can use hangers for plasterboard. With them it is easier to level the surface of the crate.

Step 6 If the system is assembled from plastic elements, it is necessary to check their perpendicularity to the PVC panels, otherwise there is a risk that the locks will not snap into place. It will be more convenient to work with a plastic crate if wooden bars are installed around the perimeter of the entire wall being trimmed along the thickness of the guides.

Prices for building levels

Building levels

Now you can consider how the panels are attached to the crate:

1. Starting and ceiling plinths are placed and fastened with appropriate fasteners to the system. The result is a frame. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality and horizontality of this frame, and then the plane of the cladding in terms of level, since even a millimeter deviation can cause a blockage in the future.
2. Elements are cut to length with a hacksaw. A protruding spike is cut off from the first panel, then the cut side is inserted into the corner, and the edges are tucked into the profiles. The bar is driven all the way and fixed to each crossbar.
3. Joining subsequent panels.
4. The latter is cut to width and inserted into profiles.

Video - Installation of PVC panels on the crate

Note! Some craftsmen prefer to work without corner profiles. The panel that goes into the corner can be cut from the back and gently bent so as not to break. This usually succeeds the first time, since plastic for the manufacture of panels is used quite flexible and elastic. From the front side, such a fold will look nice and neat.

Features of fastening in different rooms

Pay attention to the article - where we sorted out interesting options for mounting panels in the restroom.

The following features of the finishing device in different rooms can be distinguished:

1. In the bathroom and high humidity and temperature fluctuations often occur, so it is better to take a crate system made of plastic or stainless steel. If the wall is without special bumps and pits, you can glue the cladding on liquid nails or even mounting foam. Mounting on self-tapping screws (also made of stainless steel) is acceptable.
2. For decoration loggias or balconies it is better to take sandwich panels and lay them on the crate, under which you can place a layer of thermal insulation.
3. For decoration living rooms take decorative panels with patterns, drawings or with a 3D effect. Installation should be carried out taking into account the condition of the walls. If there are a lot of wires in the room, it is better to use a crate for which they can be hidden. In the rooms, you can arrange a more economical wooden crate, since the humidity drops are small here.
4. For decoration country house rooms, used only in the season, as well as terraces and verandas, you should use any crate, except for wood, since during an unheated period, humidity may increase in them.
5. In addition, the panels are used for finishing administrative premises, offices, trade departments and supermarkets.

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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

Plastic trim now has both supporters who admire its beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials have no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly fix PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the very fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four ways is not much different. In this case, we will talk about creating the basis for such a coating. But first, let's deal with the preparation for the main process.

What to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the features. Facing for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. At the same time, wall decoration is able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, on a good basis, you can safely mount both ceiling and wall panels. But think about whether you need increased strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will hurt him with his elbows, and the claws of pets will not get there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the wilds, 2 main areas can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Seam panels, for external similarity, are also commonly called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to veneer the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, upon closer examination, the connecting seam is easy to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can be from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course, there is also a plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the accessories. If you are limited only to the ceiling, then you will need a ceiling plinth to equip the perimeter. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic plinth with a mounting groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then against the background of a flat plinth, this curvature will be too noticeable. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starting profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in reserve. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

Equipping the base

As I said, fastening the panels to the base is the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic rails with movable clamps;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We assemble the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable version of the ceiling cladding. Of course, the arrangement of such a design, in comparison with all other basics, requires time and financial investments.

But take my word for it, the metal frame is worth the sacrifice. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too complicated, at least until I mastered this science myself, I thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing here that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite up to you.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling at least 5-7 cm lower. For homeowners with ceilings of 3m and above, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of Khrushchev have something to think about.

Any similar design is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profile. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our PP classification (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need perforated metal hangers and, of course, “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors, this already depends on the type of base. Between themselves, metal profiles and suspensions are fixed using small metal screws. In the people they are called fleas or bugs, as someone is used to.

By the way, we will also mount the plastic lining on 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% is usually spent on pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always best to have a small spare in case of an emergency repair.

From the obligatory tool you will need a screwdriver and a drill or a hammer drill. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal shears.

It's good if you have a laser level, but this tool is professional and the price is fantastic. Therefore, instead of it, a hydraulic level is often used.

Do not confuse the hydraulic level and the usual building level. The hydro level is a long transparent tube into which water is poured, this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations along the edges. Its price is not high, so it is better to buy, it will not be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with marking. In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is “littered”. The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are necessarily differences in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydraulic level comes in handy;

• Having found the “littered” corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if it is planned to install a heater on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be done more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, you will need to transfer this horizon to the entire room. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• A UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal line, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors with a pitch of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed inside the room, since later we will insert a CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels. Again, you first need to mark the installation sites of the carrier profiles;

Remember, the carrier profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn’t matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the rails.

• As I said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such fastening is not enough, so the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated suspensions to the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are fixed to the ceiling with the same dowels "Quick installation" or anchor bolts. But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, a straight line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions according to this markup.. For plastic, it is enough to install suspensions at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or clapboard;

• Then everything is simple. We insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure at all points of contact with small self-tapping screws. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden crate on the ceiling

Compared to the above option, it is much easier to mount a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Of the advantages, one can point to ease of installation and lower cost of construction. A wooden frame will cost you less than a metal frame by more than 2 times.

But it is extremely undesirable to mount wood in damp rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and fungus, but in this case there is no protection against deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly even dry bars are expensive. And if you take a budget option, then almost all the slats are slightly crooked. Accordingly, in order to bring such a frame to mind, you will have to tinker a lot. The cross section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can split.

In this case, the wooden bars of the frame are attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors in increments of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also supposed to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply fill the bars of the crate on it and not bother with bringing it to zero. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the lining, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level strictly horizontally, with the help of wedges, first set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the remaining laths of the crate. The distance between the planks of the wooden crate is maintained in the region of half a meter.

Option number 3. Installing a plastic crate

Plastic crate thing is very comfortable and very durable. But the problem is that it will cost no less than installing a metal frame. At the same time, you can fix only plastic PVC panels on such a base. No other facing material can be hung on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. Kleimers move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

To the ceiling, they are attached according to the same principle as the wooden crate. Only compared to wood, plastic is less durable, and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then the fixing screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then if the wooden wedges are deformed, the expensive plastic battens may crack.

The big advantage of this version of the crate is not only that it is easy and quick to mount plastic on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the lathing slats will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be assembled elsewhere.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete floor slabs. And if it is good to putty the joints between these plates, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any crate on it; plastic panels can simply be glued to such a base on a construction adhesive called "Liquid Nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but, as far as I have come across, this is the one that is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when it comes to ceiling work. If you simply lubricate the panel with glue and press it to the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not rosy.

You need to act differently:

• After lubricating the panel with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Further, this panel is set aside and aged for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly stick to the ceiling.

“Liquid nails” glue is certainly good, but in order for it to firmly grasp on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard deep penetration primer "Betonkontakt" are enough.

Of course, gluing panels to reinforced concrete floor slabs is fast, simple and inexpensive, and most importantly, it does not make ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will no longer be possible to dismantle such a lining without damaging it. Basically, it's a one-time option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. I already mentioned above that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove as a starting profile.

The fastening of the ceiling plinth with the mounting groove is carried out in the same way as the fixing of the plastic panels themselves. That is:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• To the wooden frame, the plinth or the starting profile can either be screwed onto self-tapping screws or “shoot” with staples of a construction stapler;
• On plastic guides, it is fixed with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling it is simply glued to the "Liquid Nails".

Both in the ceiling plinth with a mounting groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support bar is specially made wider. It is in this extension that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clamp.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice craftsmen often have a problem with how to fix the last panel on the ceiling. This issue is easily solved:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we recline 5 - 7 mm and cut off our last panel;
• Next, we start the extreme panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the spike of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of the U-shaped starting profile or plinth with a mounting groove fluctuates around 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the plinth and the trimmed plank will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it on with self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you join it in the corners.

Most instructions recommend simply taking a carpenter's miter box and "cutting" adjacent 45º corners. But in our houses, not all corners have a clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or vice versa is sharp, then the standard carpentry miter box is generally useless.

I do it quite differently. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling lining. But my advice to you, if you are wiring under the skin, then before installing the plastic, assemble the circuit and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Conclusion

Cladding the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. See the photos and videos in this article for more tips and tricks. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

If you have started to make repairs in the bathroom or on the loggia, but do not know how to install plastic panels on the wall, you need to thoroughly understand this issue. Learn the intricacies and nuances of this process so that home renovation is only a joy and does not bring unnecessary trouble. The cost of such an interior is many times lower, and the design options are countless.

What are plastic panels attached to?

Plastic sheathing is a great way to solve several problems at once: the parts are easy to mount on the wall, they do not require much maintenance. However, for the implementation of the task, it is important to know how to fix the plastic panels to the wall correctly. Here are the important points regarding the installation of such a skin:

• PVC panels can be fastened to the wall using nails, self-tapping screws or using a special liquid nails adhesive.
• If the walls are even, then you can mount fasteners directly to them: in the case of a wooden or soft surface, self-tapping screws are suitable, and for concrete, you need to take dowel-nails.
• If the walls are difficult to level, a special wooden or metal lattice-frame is installed first.

Each mounting method has its own nuances:

• If nails are used, then it will not be possible to remove the plates in order to use them elsewhere: during dismantling, the parts will simply break into several pieces.
• Clamps or staples driven in with a special stapler are best suited.

How to fix PVC panels on the wall

To understand how to fix plastic panels to the wall, remember a few useful tips:

• Cut the elements themselves, putting them face up.
• To protect your eyes, be sure to wear goggles when cutting parts.
• When driving nails, it is important to hit the nail head clearly, otherwise dents will remain. It will be impossible to correct such a defect.
• Before the end of the installation process, do not remove the protective film, so as not to leave dirty marks on the skin.
• After installation, wash the walls only with soapy water so as not to spoil the design or pattern.

On a wooden crate

The question of how to fix the plastic panels on the wall will help to solve the crate made of wood. Reiki must be screwed with a distance of about fifty centimeters. Wooden beams should be perpendicular to the PVC direction: if the details of the future interior are vertical, then it is best to nail the wooden structure horizontally.

1. Install the hardware first. Fix on the surface first the outer and inner corners, then the final element - the ceiling plinth, and at the end - the molding with lamellas.
2. Next, install the first part connecting the fasteners. Fix with nails or staples on the side of the wide mounting shelf.
3. So that the whole structure does not turn out to be a curve, before attaching the next part, check the first one. She must stand upright.
4. Mount the narrow shelf of the second element to the first, leaving no gaps.
5. So sequentially attach all PVC panels. Only the very last element differs: it must be inserted with force in order to fix the entire structure. If the size does not match the remaining space, cut the part with a knife along the skin.

With a metal frame

If there is always high humidity in the room, for example, in a sauna or a bathroom, then the tree will quickly swell, and you will have to redo the repair. How to attach the plastic panels to the wall in this case? Suitable metal mounting structures. To simplify the process of installing the cladding, special clips are used. Thanks to them, you can easily remove interior elements and attach others.

When installing the skin, remember that the material may expand as the temperature changes. When using a wide beam, sound insulation or insulation can be attached to the free space. So simple plastic panels will help solve several problems at once: create an interior with taste and keep the heat inside the room.

Installation of PVC panels without crates on liquid nails

For flat walls, use building glue, but during such repairs, wear a respirator and ventilate the room. The benefits will cover all temporary inconveniences. "Liquid nails" do not affect the plastic, dry quickly, which gives the right to adjust the details on the wall. Such glue is environmentally friendly and does not depend on changes in climatic conditions (changes in temperature and humidity).

1. Before gluing the panels, it is necessary to prepare the walls: remove old wallpaper, tiles and plaster, smooth out all inaccuracies and prime the surface.
2. At the very beginning, remove the boards from the packaging for thirty minutes to allow adaptation to the humidity in the air.
3. Prepare the glue itself: cut off the tip, put on the cap, open it and install the product in the construction gun.
4. Draw dots, a grid, or a zigzag pattern on the wall.
5. At the time of gluing, press the part against the wall so that the glue grabs evenly with the entire element. You can use a rubber roller. The first couple of minutes it is easy to adjust the position of the structure, and after 20 minutes the glue will set.
6. The final step is to “sew up” the seams between the PVC parts and other elements of the bathroom with sealant. The wall profile is ready.

Video

Even a novice in repair can handle the installation of fasteners and cladding in the bathroom on the wall surface. However, in order to avoid technology violations and damage to the cladding, watch the step-by-step instructions in the video below, where the specialist will share his secrets in installing sheets and fasteners in the slab and on the ceiling. The guide will help you to install panels flawlessly the first time.

Installation of plastic panels on the wall in the bathroom

How to fix wall panels on the loggia

How to fix plastic panels - step by step instructions

Thinking about the repair, we always want to get an excellent result, and at the same time do without extra costs and meet the minimum deadlines. Another important point is that the repair work does not cause a lot of trouble, does not leave behind dirt and does not greatly interfere with the neighbors.

An excellent solution in this case would be the installation of plastic panels. Our instructions will help you understand how to fix plastic panels. They are easily mounted on walls or ceilings and do not need to pre-level the surface.

Plastic panels are easy to care for and are ideal for rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna, boiler room). A variety of colors and textures will help create a unique and cozy interior. For the installation of such panels, it is enough to have several tools at hand.

Necessary tool and preliminary preparation

The tools necessary for fixing plastic panels can be found in almost every home:

• electric drill;
• wood saw;
• scissors and a hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• tape measure, building level, pencil or marker;
• hammer, stapler;
• ladder.

First, use a tape measure to measure the work surface, this will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of materials.

The surface must be freed from wallpaper. If the panels are glued, be sure to clean the walls or tiles from paint and dust.

Installation features and procedure

The panels are fastened either directly to the wall or to a crate prepared in advance. To mount on the wall, it must be perfectly flat. The crate is wooden bars or slats that are screwed to the surface at a certain distance from each other. For walls, the width between the rails should not exceed 30 - 40 cm, for the ceiling - no more than 30 cm. The rails for the crate are attached to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

If the wall to which the rails are attached is wooden or any other wall into which self-tapping screws are easily screwed, then it is best to use them to fasten the bars. If the wall is concrete or brick, then it is best to fasten the bars with dowel-nails or with ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws.

An example of fastening a crate for plastic panels.

Before you get started, you need to understand how to properly attach the plastic panels to the wall.

• If you decide to fasten the panels to the crate with nails, then keep in mind that the reuse of the material will be impossible, since, most likely, the integrity of the panel will be violated during dismantling.
• The best method of fastening is with clamps.
• But the use of staples that are driven in with a special stapler is also a good option.
• Another good option for fastening panels is self-tapping screws.

The most common ways of fastening plastic panels.

After you have decided on the method of fastening the panels, you need to do the following:

First, install the fittings: the final element, the outer or inner corner. If the panel closes the wall to the ceiling, then fix the ceiling plinth to the top beam.

Available types of fittings for plastic panels.

Insert the panel into the fixing element with a narrow fixing flange. The panel is fixed from the side of the wide mounting shelf using nails or brackets.

After making sure that the first panel is level, insert the next one with the narrow end into the groove of the previous panel. Try to mount panels closely to each other.

Installation of the necessary fittings and the first plastic panel.

The last plastic panel that completes the row must be inserted with force between the final element and the previous panel. If the panel needs to be reduced in width, then cut off the excess with a knife, moving along the panel.

Video: Installation of battens, fittings and PVC panels

Features of mounting plastic panels on walls

If the room is dry and the walls are even, then the panels can be mounted directly on the wall without using the crate.

Fastening panels with glue directly to the walls without using a crate.

In a room with high humidity, a plastic or metal mounting profile should be used as a crate. In this case, the panels are attached to the rails with special clips, which greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the structure.

Fastening panels using a plastic profile using special clips.

Consideration should be given to the expansion of the material with temperature changes, so when adjusting the height of the panels, leave a small gap. If a wide beam is used for the crate, then a heater or soundproofing material can be placed in the resulting space between the wall and the panels.

Features of mounting plastic panels on the ceiling

Now consider how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling. Before installation, it is necessary to determine the distance between the panels and the ceiling. This gap will depend on the type of lighting. If you plan to install recessed lights, then the distance should be at least 10-15 cm, so you can completely hide the wiring. Mark in advance with a pencil the places of the lamps, cut out the holes and install the bases of the lighting devices.

Metal crate for mounting plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom.

Next, you follow the same steps as when mounting the panels on the walls. In a room with a flat ceiling, you can do without crates. Install the ceiling plinth on three walls before starting work. Use a building level to evenly place the panels.

When installing plastic panels in a damp room, fill the gaps in the ceiling with silicone sealant to ensure complete watertightness.

1. Cut and drill panels face up. For cutting, use a hacksaw, a hand saw or a construction knife. Always wear goggles to protect your eyes.

2. Apply glue directly to the wall. Draw a grid with even lines, leaving no empty areas. Use only special building glue "liquid nails".

3. When driving nails into the panel during installation, be careful not to hit the surface with a hammer, otherwise dents will remain.

4. Clean plastic panels with soapy water. Do not use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads or solvent-based cleaners.

Now you know how to fix plastic panels to the wall and how to care for them. Installing plastic panels does not require much time and is within the power of any beginner. By choosing this easy-to-install material, you can create a unique interior with your own hands. Among the variety of panels that imitate stone, wood, paper of various colors, you are sure to find an option to your liking.

Be sure to watch the video below, it very clearly shows the process of installing plastic panels.

Video: Finishing the walls and ceiling of the bathroom with PVC panels

How to fix plastic panels to the wall

If you decide to finish the walls and ceiling in the bathroom, hallway, kitchen or balcony, then you should look for materials that can cope with high humidity in these rooms and do not change their properties. And PVC panels will be the best option in this case.

They are not expensive, practical and of high quality. Among other advantages, the panels are easy to clean, do not deform from contact with moisture and do not fade in the sun. Yes, and installation is quite simple.

They are just perfect for leveling walls, and thanks to a wide color palette, they allow you to realize any design fantasies. But the fastening of the panels has its own nuances and subtleties.

Materials and tools

Installing plastic panels is quite easy, and therefore you can do this work yourself. But to do the work yourself, you need some simple tools:

After all the necessary tools are prepared, you can go for panels, batten materials and fasteners. But it's still worth it first. make all the necessary measurements so as not to buy too many materials or, conversely, not to buy them later.

How to calculate materials

Plastic panels are available in a variety of colors and sizes. The length of the panels most often varies from 2.7 m to six meters, while their width can reach 50 cm, and the thickness of the panels - 8 or 10 mm. Based on these parameters, you should calculate the required amount of materials for finishing rooms.

First you need completely measure the room without missing a single wall, then you need to decide in which direction the panels will be laid - along or across. And already at the end of all measurements, the amount of material needed should be calculated.

It is worth remembering that from how you will fasten the panels - along or across, you can visually resize and outlines of the room. If the panels are placed parallel to the floor, then the room will visually appear wider, and vertically higher.

In order to complete the crate, you will need metal profiles or wooden bars. Installation of plastic panels on the wall is carried out by mounting on the frame or installing on liquid nails and glue.

Fastening plastic panels to the wall on the frame

Before you start finishing the walls, you need to make a frame from a bar or a metal profile. Before starting work, you need to remove excess dirt and dust from the walls, and also treat the surface with a special antifungal agent.

Then you need draw a grid using a level. The distance between the rails should be no more than 40 cm. On the marking lines, holes must be drilled at a distance of 50 cm from each other. It is in them that the profile will be attached to the wall with suitable fasteners.

First you need to fasten those profiles that will go along the perimeter of the room, and only then you need to fix the transverse parts.

If the walls in the room are relatively even, that is, the difference is not more than 5 cm, then it can be used for the frame wooden bars, but with a larger difference, you need to use a metal profile. It is much easier to fix it at a distance from the wall using special fasteners. After the crate is completely completed, you can proceed to the finishing work.

It is worth starting work from the corner farthest from the entrance, because it is he who is best viewed and any trimming will be visible here. To get started you need fix the starting strips top and bottom of the frame. Attach the outer or inner mounting angle to the side. These elements will help to fix the plastic and hide the external unaesthetic appearance of the panel cuts. Now you can start installing the material.

Cut the plastic to the desired size, it is better to make it 5 cm less in height - when changing temperatures, this will help the panel not to deform. Insert it first into the upper and lower groove, and then into the side. Plastic must be fixed in each rack of the crate fixing with screws or stapler. Subsequent strips will be attached in the same way.

Installing the last strip is the most difficult step. To do this, it needs to be cut half a centimeter less than required by the rules. First insert it into the corner profile, and then snap into the groove of the previous panel. Thus, you do not deform the guides and neatly finish mounting the wall.

Installing PVC panels with glue and liquid nails

Perfectly flat walls are a rarity these days. But if you are a happy owner of such walls, then there is the possibility of installing panels without the use of crates. This method has a lot of advantages, but there are practically no disadvantages:

But first you need to be as thorough as possible prepare walls for work. All visible dirt must be removed from them, primed and smeared with an antifungal compound. Now you can attach the plastic.

If the wall allows, then the panel should fasten with a self-tapping screw somewhere in the middle of the wall, this will help provide a more secure fit. In the corners of the room, a special flexible corner should be glued. It helps to hide the curvature of the corners, give the room completeness and forms the inner and outer corners.

But it should be remembered that with this method of installation it is impossible to hide the wiring and fix the lamps. Therefore, the choice of method is up to you.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

Installing PVC panels on walls is much easier than on the ceiling, but you can do it yourself with your own hands. After all, the PVC panel helps to hide the wiring, communication pipes, ceiling irregularities. And they are also convenient to place spotlights on.

Ideal for ceiling frame made of metal profiles, which will help to attach the PVC plate more securely. In addition, the metal frame is not deformed by moisture and temperature changes.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the frame, you need to carefully prepare the ceiling. Remains of paint, whitewash or plaster must be removed from it. Then you need to treat the surface with an antifungal compound.

To start need to markup walls at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. After that, you need to install the elements at a distance of 40 cm from each other. If the distance is longer, then the PVC tracks will sag over time.

Then you need fix start profile or a special baguette for plastic. Corners should be cut using a miter box. But you can cut the corners with the help of a clerical knife already at the installation site. After that, the panels can be installed.

At the end of the work should be installed around the perimeter of the room plastic molding, and put a plastic plinth on the floor. On this, all the work on finishing the room with plastic is completed. If the panels are carefully exploited, they do not lose their attractiveness and beauty for a long time. And given that it can be easily washed, this finish becomes a real find in rooms where you often have to wash walls and ceilings.

Just do not use aggressive products to wash the panels - they can destroy the surface and you will have to change the cover. But this also has a significant plus - if one track is damaged, the entire surface does not need to be changed, it is enough to remove the damaged area and replace it with a new one.

As you can see, you can easily decorate walls and ceilings with PVC panels with your own hands. All work is carried out in stages. And if strictly follow the instructions of professionals, then the work can be done in the shortest possible time and without much effort. But remember that the materials you need to select are of high quality and reliable, and it is better to take a professional tool.

How to fix plastic PVC panels on the wall yourself

PVC panels are one of the best types of finishing and decorating ceilings and walls in various rooms, especially places with high humidity, which include kitchens, balconies, hallways, bathrooms. They attract both their cost and quality indicators and convenience.

Mounting methods

There are three methods for attaching PVC panels to the wall - self-tapping screws, kleimers, adhesive. Fastening with glue is only suitable for perfectly flat walls. Before use, you need to level, clean and dry the surface for fastening. After that, a uniform amount of glue is applied to the material, and it is fixed to the wall.

Types of glue for mounting PVC panels:

• special adhesive mixture for PVC panels;
• universal glue "Moment-mounting";
• liquid nails.

For gluing, you can use the frame. Thanks to him, there is no need to level the surface of the walls, and the adhesive composition is applied to the crate from the tree. It is strictly contraindicated to use adhesive material with components such as a cleaner or solvent.

Fastening with self-tapping screws is one of the win-win ways of fixing plastic, which does not require leveling the surface to a perfectly even state. So that the work does not drag on for a long time, you will need a screwdriver to screw in the screws. The disadvantage of this method of fastening: a more suitable frame in this case is wooden, so it will take more time to saw the timber and treat it with an antiseptic.

The best option is to mount with clamps. They are easy and quick to mount in the crate. Kleimers contribute to the reliable fixation of the material on the wall. The crate is easily assembled from a metal profile. In case of damage to the lining, it is easy to change it for a new one. Finishing installation is done quickly.

Fastening tools

Before proceeding with the installation, you need to prepare a set of tools. Most of them can be found in the home of every owner. Required to work:

• for marking - a pencil with a tape measure;
• a hacksaw with fine teeth to cut the canvas;
• construction level;
• plastic profile or rails for fixing;
• perforator, screwdriver;
• antiseptic, sealant, adhesive composition.

Before you start finishing the walls with clapboard, you will need to remove the old coating, check for cracks, if there are any, eliminate them, and treat the surface with a fungus agent. When mounted on a frame, you can do without additional leveling of the surface.

Installation sequence

PVC lining can be fixed directly to the wall or you can use the previously prepared crate for attachment. It is made of slats or beams of wood. For attaching to the wall, the distance between the bars is no more than 300-400 mm, for the ceiling - 300 mm.

Before proceeding to the beginning of fastening, it is better to thoroughly understand how to properly fasten plastic panels. When PVC products are nailed to the crate with nails, there is a high probability of breaking the integrity of the material, which will make it impossible to reuse them, so it is better to take clamps, staples or self-tapping screws.

Then fittings are installed: the final part, a corner on the outside or inside. A ceiling plinth must be attached to the top rail if the wall is closed with clapboard up to the ceiling. The material is inserted into the fastening part with a thin fastening shelf and fastened with nails or staples to the side of the wide mounting shelf. When the lining is evenly attached, the next one is inserted into its hole with the narrow side. Panels need to be fixed closely, one to the other. The lining that completes the row must be properly fixed between the final part and the panel preceding it.

In a dry room with even walls, it is not necessary to use a crate, and the lining can be fixed directly to the wall. In case of high humidity, instead of a crate, it is better to use a profile for mounting from plastic or metal. Clips are used for fastening, which greatly facilitates the work with panels.

When attaching the lining to the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the gap between it and the ceiling, which will depend on the type of lighting available. To hide the wiring with built-in lamps, this gap should be 100-1 50 mm. Before fixing the panels, holes are cut out for chandeliers, socles of lighting devices are installed in them. Then the PVC panel is fixed to the ceiling in the same way as on the wall..

With a flat ceiling, it is not necessary to use a crate. Getting started, a ceiling plinth is installed on three walls. For even placement, a building level is used. Before fixing the lining in rooms with high humidity, gaps and cracks in the ceiling are filled with silicone sealant to create a water tightness.

Getting started, you need to know how to fix the PVC panels correctly and attach the material securely. Do not neglect the technical guidance and recommendations of professionals that can facilitate the installation.

• During cutting and drilling, the panel must be face up. It is better to cut with a saw for metal products or a hand, construction knife.
• The adhesive composition is applied in straight lines to the wall, drawing a grid.
• To clean the wall panels, it is better to use a soapy solution. Do not use solvent, detergents, which include abrasives, coarse washcloths.
• Before attaching the plastic panels to the wall, it is recommended to wear protective goggles.
• Before starting work, familiarize yourself with the theory of how to attach plastic panels to the wall.

Performing the work step by step and following the instructions, you can do the installation of the panels yourself, without resorting to the help of masters.