Do-it-yourself frame house: step-by-step assembly instructions with a photo. How to build a garden house with your own hands: step by step instructions Inexpensive garden house with your own hands
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth tape foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda / terrace is included in the projection of the house, if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken on the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: it makes no sense to lay a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of TISE piles normally work in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of fachwerk and frame constructions with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with triples (not in pairs!) Of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. The dream of many citizens is a beautiful little house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But just not for everyone, these dreams get a real embodiment, it seems that a country house is both difficult, and expensive, and long. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple. Choosing a place for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there are not so many places. A well-thought-out competent layout will help to use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance: We do not consider the option with a lowland - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (north-western) part. Considering typical projects of country houses, it is easy to see that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested version of a country house, while you can refuse a utility block, because inventory and household supplies can be stored in the attic. A terrace can be attached to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-storey country houses often obtained without actually erecting a “clean” second floor, instead of it attic. Then on the first floor you can plan the kitchen and living room, and the second floor - under the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners. Advice!
You can save a lot on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for the installation of a classic (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you intend to live only in the "season" (late spring - early autumn), then you can use electric or infrared heaters to heat it in bad weather. Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof changed architecturally interesting buildings, with an improved layout, one / two floors. You buy a kind of building kit, such a country house is easy to build, having only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already provides for all systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help to avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands. A collapsible country house is designed for a long vacation with family or friends, it is larger in area, it can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity. The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work is required, it is completely ready for operation. The choice of the type of foundation is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, beam, frame houses and modular) can be built on a columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require the laying of a strip foundation (as an option - prefabricated, from reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the bearing walls of the house. It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater occurs. In the basement, it is required to equip waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be made as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. Alternatively, roofing material can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is arranged below the expected level of laying beams for the floor. Advice!
In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh. A blind area is created around the basement, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the eaves), which has a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of the earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, on top of it - a layer of gravel (gravel, broken brick) and poured with concrete (rolled up with asphalt). Flooring begins with laying the log. To insulate the floor between the lags, a heater is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid out. It is attached to the lags with a stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. Then a subfloor is laid, for which an unedged, cheapest board is used, having previously treated it with a remedy for dampness and decay. And then they spread the finishing floor. In a two-story house, the ceiling beams of the first floor serve as a frame for the floor on the second floor. Every year there are more and more summer residents who join those who want to quickly build a garden house with their own hands. After all, it is quite logical that questions arise about how to settle down in the summer or at other times of the year in your country house. You can build a huge mansion or a real family estate, only if you have only a couple of acres at your disposal, then why not decide to build a small garden house, which will not take much time and you won’t even have to involve any “heavy artillery”. Before you start drawing your future home, it's worth thinking about the necessary project documentation. The first thing to decide for yourself is what functions will be assigned to the future house. Despite the fact that the main purpose of any cottage in the country is temporary residence, most often exclusively in warm weather, it must be not only dry and warm at any time of the year, but most importantly, comfortable for all family members and guests. In summer, in the heat in an economy class country house or any other, it must be a little cool. Speaking from the point of view of using the house as a structure, it should not, first of all, need regular repairs, as well as serious and lengthy preparation for the cold. It is imperative that the house always has electricity and, at least in the heat, in summer, drinking water. In addition, it is important that, if necessary, at least a few guests can be accommodated in the house. The ideal option is when each of the rooms is multifunctional. Having decided to build a modern garden house, it is important to keep in mind that its project today must necessarily consist of a large number of simple floor plans and the mandatory indication of the area of \u200b\u200beach of the rooms. Particular attention should be paid to the drawings of each of the nodes, where all the walls are connected to the ceiling and, accordingly, the floor, as well as all the supports of the existing floors. It is imperative that there is a vertical section of the future house indicating all the marks of a certain floor level, as well as the bottom of the foundation. Looking through the photo of the future garden house, another point that you will definitely need to pay attention to is the presence of diagrams of all communication networks, that is, water supply, electrics, and so on. If you plan to erect a building yourself, then in this case, keep in mind that each of the drawings must be made on paper on a scale with strict observance of all proportions. Linear dimensions are indicated for convenience almost always now in millimeters. The completion of the garden house project is an explanatory note, which usually contains: If you definitely decided to build a garden house with your own hands at low cost, then in this case, you can use, for example, foam or gas blocks and bricks loved by many as a building material for construction. In this case, it is better to choose a pine beam with a square section, in which one side is 10 cm, as the main material. Please note that one of the four sides of the selected timber must be already planed. It is she who will be used for the outer surface of all walls. The remaining components of the house, such as the ceiling, ceilings, floors, and so on, can be easily made, for example, from high-quality pine lumber. Before construction begins, all building material must undergo a short drying process. The main thing to pay attention to is that the level of dryness of the materials used is approximately the same. For example, the material of the walls must necessarily have exactly the same dryness as the lining used for finishing the ceiling in the house. In addition to wood, you will also need the following materials: If you are interested in building a garden house exclusively from environmentally friendly building materials, then in this case you can use only asbestos-cement sheets from this huge list. It is very easy to build a country house on your own from slats, any timber and prepared boards, as well as from windows and doors already ready for construction. To work, you need to prepare in advance: a hand and circular miter saw, a battery-powered drill, several types of hammer, a large ruler with a pencil, a cord used for marking, a corner, as well as a flat brush and construction adhesive tape. Looking through the Internet various options for garden houses, it is impossible not to be amazed at the ingenuity and imagination of some people. Today, houses differ not only in their size, but also in materials, exterior finishes, the shape of the roof, doors and even windows. Garden houses made of timber look interesting. They are not only strong with powerful walls, but also and most often made in pleasant warm shades. It doesn’t take much to build a garden house with your own hands, but the finished building is a real lifesaver in an open area. Even a small and simple house is enough to hide from the weather, store household equipment, and comfortably relax for children and adults. A universal solution for any site - a one-story house with or without an attic. You can turn a summer house into a two-story house if equip a comfortable attic instead of an attic. For comfortable outdoor recreation, a terrace is attached to the house - open or with a canopy. In good weather, it serves as a dining room or playground for children. It all depends on the area and configuration. Note! The terrace is easy to decorate with decorative lighting, curly flowers. If the garden house will be operated only in the warm season, then it is not necessary to lay a heating system in it. On cold evenings and nights enough heater. And this will require wiring. Whatever version of the garden house you choose, before construction you need to draw up its project. It will help to calculate the load on the foundation, the amount of materials needed. You can build a garden house with your own hands from bricks, timber, concrete blocks. Each option has advantages and disadvantages. Lightweight with a thickness of 150 mm – at first glance economical and easy construction option. Lumber lays down easily, looks beautiful, suitable for any type of fine finish. However, such a house does not retain heat well in spring and autumn, which entails considerable costs for the heating system and electricity. Summer houses made of foam blocks can withstand heavy loads even with a wall thickness of about 30 cm keep warm in the off-season. The special block laying technology minimizes cold bridges and prevents condensation in the premises. However, specialists must build according to a carefully designed project. Brick houses are no less reliable than block houses, but they require at least external insulation. With a thickness of external walls of 1-1.5 bricks, this can be facade plaster, a “ventilated facade” system or a combination of expanded polystyrene with facing bricks. The design is warm, strong, durable, but not cheap. Worthy of attention deserves the technology of frame construction. It allows you to build a light but durable garden house with the lowest financial and labor costs. Moreover, its design is such that repairs and additional insulation will not require much effort. The frame technology for building a summer house is simple, it implies multiple base options and wall cladding. But how to build a small garden house with your own hands, if there is no experience? You can't do without step-by-step instructions for work and knowledge of some secrets. Shallow-depth withstands a large load. Suitable for device on heaving, but not on peat, sapropel, clay soils. The width of the base is 10 cm more than the thickness of the walls, the height is about 50 cm. Usually, such a foundation lies above the groundwater, therefore, in the spring, it goes up with them and then goes down. Note! When constructing a strip foundation, it is possible to equip a basement under the summer house, for example, for storing garden tools. The device of a shallow strip foundation is performed according to the scheme. With potentially large loads, the foundation is additionally reinforced. The process is quite laborious, so it is worth correlating the scale of the house under construction with the cost of laying the foundation. For a small and light garden house, a shallow columnar base of individual concrete blocks is sufficient. fit elements measuring 20x20x40 cm. Holes are dug under the blocks with a depth of about 50 cm. Layers are laid at the bottom: On top of such a "pillow" concrete blocks are laid in two rows. For fixing use cement brand M-150. The result is poles that protrude about 20 cm above ground level. It is important! The second row of blocks is laid across the first. Geo-screws are similar to screw piles, but shorter. They are used for light and small buildings. Categorically not suitable for work on floating and loose soils. The lower trim of the frame house is mounted on the heads of the geoscrews. Advantages of technology: Geo-screws are screwed into the ground strictly vertical. To do this, with the help of a hand drill, first, pits are made with a depth of 35-50 cm. Geo-screws are inserted into them, which are twisted by hand. It is enough to insert a crowbar into the head and use it as a lever. On dense soils for these purposes is suitable a piece of metal pipe with handles welded to it. The design is put on the head and also serves as a lever. Some craftsmen buy multipliers in stores, connect them to an electric drill using a metal pipe, and thereby increase the torque of the device. The finished design, fixed on the head, allows reduce the time for screwing geoscrews. Work starts from the corners. Vertical alignment of ground screws is performed after they are buried in the ground by about 1/3. The assembly of the wooden frame begins with the bottom strapping. For this use board with a section of 5x15 cm or timber - 15x15 cm. The selected lumber is laid on the foundation along the waterproofing layer (roofing material). In corner joints, wooden strapping elements are connected by cutting "half a tree". On the foundation, the strapping is fixed with anchor bolts. Logs are laid across for the future floor, maintaining a distance between them of 50 cm. Raise the frame, starting with the installation of the bars in the corners. Intermediate racks are fixed in increments of no more than 200 cm. For this, a “half-tree” cut and reinforced steel corners are used. To give the structure rigidity, in the corners set temporary supports - braces. Provide for door and window openings. After that, similarly to the lower one, the upper trim of the frame is assembled, the cross beams of the floor are fixed and the truss system is mounted. Note! Part of the roof can be assembled in advance, and then lifted up. So, when constructing a hip roof, it is convenient to first assemble the ridge run and the central rafters on the ground, and then fix the diagonal rafters at the top. After assembling the frame, proceed for wall and roof cladding. For the walls of an unheated small house, OSB is most often used - oriented strand boards. For external cladding, OSB-3 weatherproof boards are chosen. They are attached to the racks with wood screws, without screwing them in until the end by about 1-2 mm. This is necessary so that the plates have the opportunity expand with changes in temperature and humidity. In this case, the joints of the plates should fall on the frame rack. Subsequently, these seams are puttied. In a similar way, they sheathe a house from OSB from the inside with their own hands. Siding, facade plaster will serve as a finishing facing material. Used as roofing material tiles, corrugated board. The second option is preferable for a garden house, as the material is lightweight and low cost. For fastening corrugated board use self-tapping screws for metal. The most important thing in the work is to correctly and evenly install the first sheet. It is important! If you want to insulate the building, then to protect the heat-insulating material and wood, you will need a hydro- and vapor barrier - a polyethylene film and a vapor barrier membrane. When building a small garden house, it is important to chase not beauty, but for reliability, convenience and performance. What is the use of a beautiful building if it is cold even in late spring? However, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is important to strictly observe the construction technology. Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages: It is worth noting that each stage of the construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all the possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically. frame house. The preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes: First you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate. If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled on the horizon using special equipment. Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error. Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls. If you want to know how to properly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all walls and corners are even and in line with the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately. The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities. It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you. Here I will briefly talk about suitable foundations for a frame house, and about the cases in which each of them is used, as well as give links to their detailed description. Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Particularly well suited for swampy soils, where dense soil rocks are deep and other types are very expensive. In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home. Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires precise adherence to the laying technology. As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated on soil with a very high level of groundwater and swampy soils. Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole. The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires. In this step-by-step instruction, we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article. But if the foundation is strip - the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example. Let's look at the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, it can be made from a thinner bar. But first things first. The device of a wooden floor begins with the binding of the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the beam must be to avoid sagging. The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, and secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house. In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we divide it into several stages: When the binding of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next step in our instructions - the construction of the floor frame. It is worth noting that already at this stage it is desirable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, there will be much less problems later. The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two. If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board with a size of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm. Installing a log is a simple step in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that need to be provided for in this manual: It should be noted that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while eliminating the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks. So we reviewed the instructions for arranging the floor of a frame house, now it's time to start on the walls. The next step of our instructions will be installing the walls with your own hands. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fastenings can be made with studs. It should be noted that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required thickness of the insulation. Some people think that it would be better to install a beam at the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything. So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house. For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for arranging the walls of a frame house into several stages: We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be taken into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor. To understand what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house and then I'll talk about everything in order. Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands: The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board in the calculations, thus the wall is not as long as we would like. It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not. So, the wall frame is assembled, now it is necessary to make the upper trim from the same board as the walls. The upper trim is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them. To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with nails 120-150 mm over the walls, around the entire perimeter, including internal bearings, so that all joints are blocked with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall. The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB-plate. As a rule, having broken one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB-plate, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid. The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device of external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation. These are all the main differences between the internal walls and the external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way. The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier. It is worth noting that the construction of a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then you can easily do it yourself. Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very big topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. And secondly, in order not to confuse you, I, perhaps, will transfer this topic to a separate article. So we got to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - the floor, walls and ceiling. You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction, here we will discuss only general points. When choosing a heater for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the heater itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well. Here is a small instruction for warming a frame house with your own hands: As you can see, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction have been described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, despite the fact that some points have been moved to separate topics, but this is only for your convenience. I hope that by following this step-by-step instruction, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
We plan space
Projects of small country houses
Laying the foundation
Floor and walls
Garden house design
What tools and materials will be needed to build a house?
Types of buildings
Photos of garden houses
Summer house options
What to build a garden house from
Do-it-yourself frame garden house
Shallow block base
Ground screws foundation
Wooden frame assembly
Wall and roof cladding
Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house
Site preparation
House layout
Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. With inaccurate markup, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house
The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw. This is practically the easiest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install a pile-screw foundation with your own hands.Shallow strip foundation
Shallow strip foundation, also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.Slab foundation for a frame house
Recently, a slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with their own hands. Despite its low cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not be spent on it separately.Step number 3: Do-it-yourself frame house flooring
Concrete floor installation
It is worth noting that the concrete floor in the frame house is arranged, in cases of a slab foundation, or a strip one. Everything is clear with the slab - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.Wooden floor installation
Tying the foundation of a frame house
Floor frame in the house
Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house
Step number 4: Arranging the walls of a frame house
Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors
Putting the walls in place
Upper harness and structural reinforcement
Internal partitions of a frame house
Step #5: Frame House Roof
Step number 6: Warming the frame house
