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Do-it-yourself leatherette door trim: the subtleties of the rear and front door trim. How to sheathe the front door with dermantine: detailed instructions and tips How to properly sheathe the door

The entrance door group is now mostly made of metal, so they primarily perform a security function. But budget options have some drawbacks. These include poor heat and noise insulation. The easiest and most affordable way to compensate for these shortcomings is to upholster metal doors with dermantine. Before ready-made entrance groups appeared on the market, they were often ordered individually and made from sheet steel.

An example of upholstery of metal doors with leatherette

They were distinguished by a sufficient degree of reliability, but did not have a very presentable appearance, and therefore required additional finishing with different materials.
Finishing options were:

1. The most common is the upholstery of a metal door with dermantine.
2. Wooden overlays.
3. We also used MDF panels and laminated canvas.

Finishing the front door with leatherette, as a more expensive option with natural leather, was the most popular.

Existing leatherette colors

This is due not only to the aesthetic appeal that the door acquired after finishing the entrance group, but also to practicality. Increased sound absorption, thermal insulation. The most used material to this day is vinyl leather (leatherette). If earlier its range was not too wide, now you can choose a finish that will satisfy every taste. They will fit into diverse interiors.

An example of leatherette door trim

From the side of the street it is finished, for example, with wooden slips, MDF slips, and the inner side of the canvas is upholstered and insulated with leatherette. This type of design is more suitable for private houses. In apartment buildings, both sides of the canvas are more often covered with leatherette. Exterior trim can be made in one color, vinyl leather texture, interior decorated with a different type of material, more suitable for this interior.


The upholstery of metal doors is somewhat different from the upholstery of a wooden box, but in general the same technique is used.

How to sheathe a door with dermantine with your own hands

Do not rush to purchase a kit for sheathing fabrics in a building supermarket. Ready-made kits may have different configurations. It is necessary to decide not only on the type of vinyl leather, but also on the purpose of finishing. Usually, in addition to the decorative effect, the door is additionally insulated and soundproofed.

Options for sheathing metal doors with leatherette

What materials and what are they used for?

Read also

Making a New Year's wreath on the door

The surface of the imitation leather upholstery varies by:

1. quality indicators. More expensive options are more elastic, softer, have a wide range of options.
2. Color scale.
3. textures. Now they offer embossed vinyl leather, with a lacquered and matte surface, imitating animal skin, velvet, eco-materials.

Thus, the door can become not only an important functional element of the house, but also a decor. See in the video how to upholster a metal door with leatherette.

Stages of upholstery of steel doors with dermantine with your own hands

First of all, you need to buy material to fit the metal. It is purchased at the rate of 10-15% of the stock.
Then prepare the tool:

Do not forget to purchase a universal adhesive for joining surfaces from various materials.
If you decide to upholster or replace the upholstery of a metal door, then it is better to dismantle it, remove it from the hinges. But you can do it on a hung canvas.

First stage, dismantling

Remove all fittings: handle, lock, peephole. Next, if there is, remove the old upholstery.


In the event that an internal insulation will be installed, it is necessary to separate the sheets.

The second stage, installation of insulation inside the door

To do this, remove the old material, cut the insulation to size and insert a new one. It can be mineral slabs made of fiberglass, basalt. It is important to remember that it is necessary to cut holes in all layers of insulation for the reverse installation of fittings.

The scheme of installation of insulation on the door

The third stage, lining with noise and heat insulation

It is better to start installation from the outside of the canvas. Cut out and glue the vibration filter. Then you need to glue the isolon (noise insulator). To do this, an adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the canvas with a brush on the canvas and the material is attached, especially carefully attached around the perimeter.
On top of it, in the same way, foam rubber is glued. Sometimes batting is used (fluffy material on a stitched mesh base).

After installing the lining material, you can additionally staple all layers using a stapler. It is better to do this along the perimeter of the door leaf, stepping back a few centimeters from the edge, and in the middle of the leaf. Attach with staples only at certain points so that the surface remains flat. Such upholstery with insulating materials will significantly increase the quality characteristics of the doors.

Sooner or later there comes a moment when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to get by with cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with a finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, it will not be difficult to sheathe the doors yourself. Consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing a material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular of them.

Vinyl leather

Vinyl leather is an economical alternative to natural leather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of a fibrous web. The basis for vinyl artificial leather can be paper, knitwear or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have different colors and textures, in addition, it has an affordable price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather sheathing is a good replacement for natural, very expensive material.

clapboard

Lining - these are slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single canvas. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, however, it is much more difficult to mount it on the latter.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material resistant to external influences, for example, larch. A more budget option is plastic, which also endures moisture and is not subject to corrosion and decay. But keep in mind that such panels can fade in the sun, so upholstery of doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Lining from wooden slats

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that mimics the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

• strength;
• profitability;
• simple care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature extremes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thus reduces the life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word "derma", which means skin. In construction terminology, dermatin is usually called leather imitation. Surely many have heard of him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

Also, leatherette is easy to process and stack, which allows you to work even without special skills. An additional plus of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the skin will be able to "breathe", which means that the wood under it will not become damp and moldy.

Genuine Leather

The door, upholstered in genuine leather, looks luxurious and emphasizes the viability of the owners, which is appreciated in some circles of society. In favor of the leather coating is also evidenced by:

• material durability;
• good sound insulation;
• additional protection against heat leakage.

Leather is the epitome of luxury

But the price of such upholstery will be several times higher than that of various substitutes. Another nuance that should be taken into account is the need for careful skin care using special products to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

Polyvinyl chloride film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is a very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. Such a film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

• undemanding to care;
• small price;
• simple installation;
• moisture resistance;
• no damage during installation on the glued surface.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

PVC film allows you to imitate any material

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there is sure to be a solution suitable for your home. Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made. Considering that the correct installation of the coating is no less important than the right material, several ways of sheathing metal and wooden doors will be considered below using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leather upholstery

So, how to sheathe the door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, however, the preparation stage and the necessary tools in both cases are almost identical.

Upholstery preparation

Dismantling the door

To independently carry out the installation of the coating, you will need the following tools:

• sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
• industrial stapler;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• brush.

Before starting work, you will need to dismantle all fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects, if any, they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette should be cut to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you can not do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the desired volume. If the door is not located inside the dressing room, but goes outside, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed by the following materials:

• isolon tape - has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
• foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention;
• batting - the service life is 30 years, it has good performance, but somewhat makes the door structure heavier.

Wooden door upholstery

Fixing the material around the perimeter

The upholstery process begins with laying a heater cut to the size of the structure on the prepared door leaf. The material must be fixed with a construction stapler or nails; before that, it is worth lubricating the surface of the door with glue for a stronger fixation.

Next, comes the crucial stage of fixing the upholstery. To do this, it is better to use special decorative nails, matched to the color of leatherette or the rest of the door hardware. The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, monitoring the uniformity of the fold of the fabric and its tension. Now it remains only to fix the leatherette with nails at regular intervals along the perimeter of the door leaf.

After the fabric is securely fastened, you can give the coating a pattern using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made patterns of the pattern are shown below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Schemes for decorative fastening leatherette

Upholstery of a metal door

The upholstery of a metal door is made a little differently, but this process is even simpler than in the case of a tree. After all, you don’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and it is this part of the work that is the most time-consuming.
After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from the hinges and placed in a horizontal position. The insulation is attached to the metal with glue, trying to lay it correctly the first time in order to avoid further displacements.

Then, leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, smeared with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. In this case, it is important to avoid the occurrence of folds and distortions.

After the glue dries, use a sharp clerical knife to remove excess material and install the fittings back. When cutting holes for door handles, locks, etc., do not forget that the slots must be smaller than the dimensions of the fittings. Otherwise, the holes may become noticeable and spoil the appearance of the structure. This completes the work, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Finished construction

Clapboard door lining

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update the door structure is to make doors from lining with your own hands. Where to start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material you have stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work, it is worth bringing it inside the room in which the decoration is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to the humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

For sheathing a wooden door, you will need the following materials and tools:

• panels of the selected material;
• measuring instruments (tape measure, level);
• pencil;
• suitable cutting tool;
• screwdriver;
• planer and sandpaper;
• screws or nails;
• varnish and brushes.

Standard lining

Preparatory work is similar to that performed when sheathing leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and removed fittings. Then you need to decide on the direction of the skin - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be mounted from the lower edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but self-tapping screws can also be used.

Panels can be fixed in different ways

During installation, the panels are fixed closely, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are closed with special corners. After the completion of the main work, the lining can be varnished. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors sheathed with clapboard, in view of the strength of the metal, will be a little more difficult to make. To fix the panels, you will have to build a wooden frame attached to the door structure, and then mount the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

• bars or slats made of wood;
• drill and screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• saw;
• pencil and tape measure.

Frame installation

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, attach the components of the frame to the surface of the door and through these holes put marks on the metal. In the intended places, the metal structure will also need to be drilled.

Further, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting design can perform another function - to serve as the basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame rails.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are mounted in the same way as described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Clapboard panels are a good solution for finishing and simultaneously insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one. However, if you have a desire to try yourself in this business - do not hesitate. A serious approach and a little training before finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the result will be a reason for pride.

Sheathing is an affordable and simple type of repair, with which you can not only decorate the door leaf, but also solve problems with insulation and sound insulation. Sheathe both long-established and new doors. The procedure does not take much time and money. And with the right approach and the right selection of materials, the upholstery will change the appearance and insulating qualities of the doorway in a positive way.

Types of materials for finishing doors, their advantages and disadvantages

Sheathing is used for two types of doors - wooden and metal. Glass sheets, as well as plastic ones, are not designed for additional coatings. Sometimes they are covered with tinted or decorative films, but this is not classified as sheathing. In addition, two types of door trim can be distinguished - external and internal. The first serves to increase the protective properties and wear resistance of the door, the second is more decorative.

Particularly relevant is the topic of sheathing for custom-made entrance doors.

Self-applying the outer layer has a number of advantages over the finished product. Firstly, the customer sees the quality of the door leaf and this saves him from any surprises in the future. Secondly, it becomes possible to choose just such a design that matches the taste and financial capabilities of the door owner.

Each material has its own characteristics and characteristics. The choice depends on the operating conditions and purpose of the door.

PVC film

Taping a door leaf with a film is perhaps one of the easiest ways to decorate a door. The vast majority of PVC coatings are produced on a self-adhesive basis. To apply to the canvas, it is enough to remove the protective paper layer and stick the PVC evenly on the door. Most often, such a coating is of a decorative nature, since the film is sensitive to mechanical damage - scratches, cuts, etc. However, there are films of increased strength with anti-vandal and even armoring properties. Such as, for example, VINORIT thermal film made in Israel. It is considered one of the most stable coatings that protect the surface of the door from the effects of the external environment.

Anti-vandal film covers not only the door leaf, but also trim and thresholds

The film is recommended to be installed on metal entrance and interior doors with a flat surface and a sheet thickness of at least 2 mm. If there are irregularities and roughness on the plane of the door leaf, they must first be eliminated. Otherwise, air will get under the film and this will lead to its gradual peeling.

The advantage of PVC films is simple installation and a wide range of colors of products. The external drawing imitates any surface - from wood texture to marble. In addition, buyers are pleased with the low price (except for expensive anti-vandal films, which belong to the middle price segment).

We have already mentioned the disadvantages:

1. Difficulties arise when covering the door leaf with a relief on the surface.
2. Low strength and "vulnerability" - an awkward movement can violate the integrity of the coating.

When buying a PVC film, you should pay attention not only to its thickness and texture, but also to the composition of the adhesive layer. Some manufacturers (mostly Chinese) use cheap casein glue, which has a persistent unpleasant odor. To avoid a mistake, you need to peel off a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe coating and smell it. A high-quality film has a neutral smell, which quickly disappears. A sharp sour "aroma" is a sign of a poor-quality product.

Video: beautiful do-it-yourself door

Laminate

One of the fairly common materials for door trim are laminated panels. They consist of a pressed wood chip base, covered with a special film in the factory (at high temperature). The panel is said to have water-repellent and anti-static properties. But in practice this is not quite the case. Under conditions of humidity and temperature differences, wood fibers swell and deform. This means that the panel can only be used for interior decoration. The exceptions are regions with a predominantly dry climate and a small temperature amplitude.

Laminated panels are produced in a large assortment: you can choose the material of the required size, texture and color

The advantage of this coating is a wide range of exterior colors and patterns. In terms of design, laminated panels occupy one of the leading places. The finish is durable, even with a small thickness (6-7 mm) it withstands mechanical loads well and prevents the door from freezing in cold weather. The price depends on the thickness of the canvas and the external relief. Panels made in the form of a panel or lining naturally cost more. Finished overlays (or as they are called by professionals - cards) are selected according to the size of the existing door. Self-fitting in width and height of the door leaf is practiced. Installation is carried out on the frame, less often - on glue or direct fastening to the sash.

Craftsmen adapted a floor laminate for door trim, which has high wear-resistant characteristics and at the same time weighs little. The cladding panel is assembled from separate pieces, possibly from leftover or scrap laminate from the floor. The plates are placed both vertically and horizontally, but diagonal placement is not excluded. The finished card is attached to a pre-prepared frame and framed with a decorative corner around the perimeter.

Doors finished with laminate are practical and reliable

Video: laminate on the door - we update the old door beautifully and inexpensively

MDF

Often homeowners prefer MDF door trim. This material has recently come into use in construction and is a pressed sawdust impregnated with resinous adhesives. MDF panels have a number of attractive properties:

• the ability to give any relief, shape and color;
• resistance to biological decay and mold;
• low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance is higher than that of fiberboard and chipboard;
• environmental Safety;
• low price.

The disadvantages of the material include its large weight: the mass of a sheet of 2.8 x 2.07 m is 72.3 kilograms. This must be taken into account when selecting MDF panels for doors. Since the hinges are designed for a certain working load, it is not recommended to exceed it. It is advisable to use a door hanger with a good margin of safety. When using MDF in the exterior decoration of entrance doors, a prerequisite is the protection of the doorway with a canopy (visor). Direct contact with water will quickly lead to swelling and deformation of the material.

The presence of a canopy over the entrance door lined with MDF is a prerequisite for long-term operation

Video: replacing an MDF panel on an entrance metal door

Wood

Natural array is one of the most attractive types of finishing materials. Wood is well-deservedly popular for its strict and at the same time solid appearance. The polished front side reflects the structure of the fibers, pleases the eye and soothes the psyche. In addition to outstanding decorative qualities, wood has excellent thermal insulation properties and absorbs noise well.

In practice, several types of wood paneling are used:

1. Reiki. The main advantage lies in the versatility of the skin. A thin single-type rail lays out a variety of patterns and ornaments. The number of combinations tends to infinity. The simplest options are laying vertically, horizontally or diagonally. Such a lining is within the power of any person. Fastening is carried out in several ways:
2. Clapboard. These are, in fact, the same rails, but equipped with longitudinal connections. Each board has a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. With their help, individual elements are linked into a single plane. The fastening of the lining is carried out in the same way as the slats - on a wooden frame or shield. The disadvantages of lining and conventional slats include the need for regular maintenance - the wooden surface must be treated with varnish or other moisture-repellent compounds. If these procedures are neglected, the wood will darken very quickly and become covered with small cracks.

   Doors lined with clapboard have a very attractive appearance and good thermal insulation.

3. Wooden cards. This coating is the leader among elite door finishes. By means of cards, various patterns or individual fragments are collected, which can carry an independent semantic load. With the help of stains, wood is given a variety of tones and textures. For example, by impregnating an inexpensive pine tree with a dark green color scheme, they get a good imitation of oak. In addition, glued wood is widely used today - it is practically insensitive to moisture and temperature changes. Unlike natural wood, a glued card is processed in a dryer and has a moisture content of no more than 8-12%. Gluing is done under pressure, using waterproof adhesives. The only drawback noted by experts is the high price.

   Cardboard wood veneer imitates any pattern on the surface of the door

Video: insulation of a metal door with clapboard

Veneer

Natural veneer is a thin cut of expensive wood. The most common way to cut veneer is planing. The material is produced on factory equipment, the average thickness is 1–1.5 mm (the greater the thickness, the more expensive the veneer, and it is more difficult to work with it at home). A prerequisite for the installation of veneer is a flat, smooth surface of the door leaf. For this, waterproof plywood is most often used. And facing works are called veneer. The benefits of veneer are obvious. A thin layer of expensive wood is glued onto an inexpensive surface - and the door looks very respectable. With proper installation, the differences are noticeable only to experienced craftsmen.

Veneer creates a unique pattern on the surface of the door leaf

Like other natural wood products, veneer needs to be protected from sudden changes in temperature and direct exposure to moisture. To do this, the surface is covered with water repellents and varnishes. Moreover, this must be done systematically, at intervals of 3–5 years or according to circumstances (as the protective layer wears out).

Video: oak door leaf veneer

Dye

Painting the door leaf is probably an operation well known to everyone. This is the simplest and most common solution for updating the sash. Coloring does not require any special knowledge and skills. With the help of a brush and a roller, even a child can apply a layer of paint on the door. Strictly speaking, paint is difficult to attribute to upholstery, here we consider this option as one of the alternatives. Those who decide to resort to this particular method of door restoration should pay attention to the choice of coloring composition, because today there are so many types of paint that it is easy to get lost in it. After choosing the color of the coating, you need to determine the degree of water resistance of the paint. For the outer side, materials with maximum water-repellent properties are used. These are alkyd, acrylic and nitro enamels. Brands of "ship" and yacht paints have proven themselves well.

Alkyd-urethane coatings withstand atmospheric loads for a long time

Hammer and powder coatings containing metal dust are also used for metal doors. Among other things, such a dye has enhanced anti-vandal properties - it is difficult to scratch it, it is impossible to set it on fire or destroy it with the help of chemicals. It should be borne in mind that some types of powder paints require baking at a high temperature. This means that for high-quality application, it is necessary to contact specialists.

Powder paint forms a beautiful and durable coating with good anti-vandal properties

Video: interior door painting

Decorative rock

Most often, artificial stone based on acrylates is used to decorate the doorway and slopes. But nothing is impossible if there is a desire to cover the door leaf itself with stone relief. To do this, there is a special group of products that imitate natural stone. Thin plates (shingles) are fixed to a flat prepared surface of the sash using tile adhesive. In this case, it is necessary to correctly calculate the total weight of the canvas and correlate it with the functionality of the loops. In order to avoid sagging of the door, a third or even a fourth pair of hinges is additionally installed. So that sudden movements do not cause chipping of stone plates, the doors are equipped with a door closer. Its power is selected in such a way as to exclude involuntary pops and door strikes on the box.

In practice, such a lining is used very rarely. More often, partial coverage of individual areas is used. There are options for fixing artificial stone panels using metal moldings and corners.

Natural stone tiles trim the doorways inside and outside the apartments

The undeniable advantages of finishing doors with stone are:

• durability - the service life of the coating is practically unlimited;
• unusual appearance of the door block;
• ease of operation - it is cleaned of dust and washed with simple means;
• environmental friendliness of the material.

The disadvantages include the high cost and the possibility of stone shedding in the case of poor-quality installation work.

Dermantin

An old-fashioned way of finishing, widely used in cases where financial possibilities are limited. Upholstery leatherette is a substitute for genuine leather made from vinyl and its derivatives. The cost of the material is very affordable, and the installation process on the surface of the door takes several hours on the strength (there is no need to remove the canvas from the box, which is very convenient). Nevertheless, despite the ease of manufacture, such upholstery regularly performs its functions - it reduces the level of noise penetrating into the room and reduces the freezing of the sash. The positive aspects include easy maintenance of the coating - it can be washed with ordinary detergents.

Dermantin is ideal for finishing doors inside the entrances of apartment buildings

The big disadvantage of dermantin is its "vulnerability". With a slight or careless movement, you can pierce and even cut the material. And to restore it, you will have to change the upholstery entirely. Attackers can intentionally damage leatherette - set fire to, cut, etc. The areas around the keyhole are especially often affected.

Installation is carried out on a frame base or by gluing directly on the door leaf.

Viniplast

We are talking about a modern material - plastic, which is used for door lining. The vinyl plastic contains light and heat stabilizers that prevent destruction when exposed to solar radiation. The thickness of the panels is from 1 to 3 mm, which is ideal for self-assembly - the weight of the panel is small, you can cut the workpiece with a regular hacksaw. For doors, a special brand is used - VD (decorative vinyl plastic). The plate is a two-layer plate - the wood-fiber base is covered with a thin but durable layer of PVC. Positive qualities of the product:

What tool is needed for door trim

Different finishing materials will require different tools.

So, for lining the door leaf with clapboard, wooden lath or laminate, you will need the following equipment:

• wood saw or electric jigsaw;

  For installation of the cladding, a hacksaw with a small tooth without divorce is used.

• drill or screwdriver;
• measuring instruments - ruler, tape measure, square (90 °);

  Measure the dimensions with a tape measure and transfer them to the workpieces

• marker or construction pencil for marking and cutting material;
• other carpentry hand tools - files, chisels, drills, etc.

  A set of high-quality hand tools speeds up the process of finishing the door leaf

If the same types of upholstery are mounted on metal doors, the following will be added to the list:

• drills for metal of various diameters;
• grinder, with which the surface of the sash is leveled (peeling disc included).

For painting it is enough to stock up:

Installing stone plates on the canvas will require a special spatula-comb and a mixer to stir the glue. In addition, you need a tile cutter with a powerful cutting edge.

Electric tile cutter allows you to work with a stone of any thickness

For veneer (gluing natural veneer) and fixing finished card panels, additional tools are used - an iron and a rolling roller for sticking edges.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the workspace and the door leaf itself. In the vast majority of cases, you need to remove the door leaf from the hinges. Since the loops are different, you must first familiarize yourself with the design of the suspension.

1. If the hinges are collapsible (removable), it is enough to dismantle the canvas:
   • open the door to 45–90 o;
   • using a mount or other convenient lever, lift the sash up;
   • carefully remove the canvas from the hinges and lower it onto the floor or a specially prepared surface, for example, on construction goats.
2. If the door structure is non-separable, you should:
   • open the door to 45–90 o;
   • having gained access to the hinge fastening, smoothly release the suspension fixation with a Phillips screwdriver. First, the upper loops are released, then the lower ones;
   • completely detach the canvas from the frame and lay it on the floor.

Before removing the sash, you need to prepare a convenient platform for work. Clear the space of excess furniture, remove all foreign objects. It is desirable that around the canvas there is an area of ​​​​half a meter in size for free movement during installation work.

If a used door is being restored, the old sheathing is removed - leatherette, facing panels, etc. All fittings are preliminarily dismantled - overhead lock strips, door handles, peephole, door closer, etc.

Video: how to remove an interior door

Door trim - instructions and work procedure

Different types of finishes have their own characteristics, which we will discuss below.

Laminate cladding

Laminate cladding is quite fast. It takes more time for the glue to dry than for the assembly itself.

1. A shield is assembled from a laminate of given dimensions. The length and width must exactly match the dimensions of the door leaf. Permissible error - 2–3 mm.
2. Along the perimeter of the sash, wooden slats are fastened to self-tapping screws, which will serve as a frame. The more rails will be used, the stronger and more reliable the laminate will be.

   For the frame, flat and planed bars are used

3. A special glue is applied to the surface of the rails, for example, “liquid nails”.

   Glue "liquid nails" is sold in any convenient package

4. The assembled shield is superimposed on the frame and pressed with a load. In order for the burden to be evenly distributed over the entire area, additional wide boards are used.
5. In the corners - where the laminate overlaps the decorative corner - you can strengthen the fastening with small flat-head screws (or make a shallow sweat).

   In order for the head of the self-tapping screw not to go beyond the surface of the canvas, it must be drowned in a pre-made recess

6. After the glue has dried (standard time - 24 hours), the load is removed and the edge corners are mounted. They are fixed with the same adhesive as the laminate shield.

   Decorative plastic corner hides the uneven ends of the laminate

7. At the last stage, fittings are installed in place, after which the finishing of the door leaf can be considered finished.

After checking the operation of the doors, adjustment measures are carried out. So, sometimes it is necessary to adjust the course of the loops or the operation of the locks. Taking this opportunity, lubricate all the moving parts of the door block. To do this, use WD-40 aerosol or graphite grease (if the door is massive).

Aerosol WD-40 is used to lubricate all types of friction surfaces

Video: laminate on the door

Facing MDF, clapboard or slats

Fixation of wood materials, which are panels or prefabricated structures such as lining or slats, is carried out using a supporting frame. It is mounted first and then sequentially sheathed. The order of work is the following.

1. Wooden bars are installed along the perimeter of the door leaf. Their size depends on several factors:
2. Intermediate and auxiliary supports are mounted between the main bars. The smaller the raster pitch, the more reliable the fastening of the cladding. In addition, they are guided by a given skin pattern. Often, longitudinal and transverse bars are inserted, which serve as a support for small details of the pattern.
3. When the frame is ready, they begin to sheath with slats, clapboard or finished panels. It is customary to move from the bottom up, but this order is not of fundamental importance. To a greater extent, the course of the lining depends on the location of the locks on the panels (or the grooves on the lining).
4. Fixation is carried out with screws or special invisible nails (without caps). The lining is fixed with special brackets - clamps, which are invisible after installation is completed.

   After installing the next board in the groove, the fasteners will become invisible

5. At the end of the sheathing, fittings are installed on the canvas and the sash is returned to the hinges.

I will share my personal experience. A qualified craftsman, in the presence of all materials, installs the lining on the door leaf in no more than 2 hours. It takes a little longer to assemble on a metal door, since to fix the frame, you need to drill holes and make additional recesses in the bars. It is convenient to use self-tapping screws for metal with a drill at the end - this greatly speeds up the process of installing the bars.

Veneer door technology

To finish doors with veneer at home, you will need an iron, preferably heavy (cast iron).

1. Veneer processing begins with the selection of the desired pattern. To do this, strips of self-adhesive material are placed on the door leaf, located horizontally. Adjust texture lines. When the drawing is fully formed, the strips are numbered so that later there is no confusion.

   The color and texture of the veneer is selected in accordance with the overall design of the door.

2. Glue the ends of the door leaf. For this purpose, strips are cut with a width equal to two thicknesses of the door leaf. The end part of the door is leveled, all irregularities and protrusions are removed from it with a chisel. After fixing the veneer, the excess is carefully trimmed with a sharp knife or chisel.

   The end strips must have a width equal to twice the thickness of the door leaf

3. Sheathe the plane of the door leaf. Lay the prepared and numbered strips in the right order. Gradually freeing the bottom side from the paper that protects the adhesive layer, fix the veneer on the sash.
4. When the entire canvas is pasted over, the entire plane is ironed with a hot iron (through a layer of paper). At the same time, special attention is paid to the joints - gaps and overlaps are not allowed between them. If the base is a metal surface, it is pre-treated with sandpaper (No. 80) to create better adhesion.

   For better bonding of veneer strips, the edges are fixed with paper tape

5. After the glue has cooled, the veneer is coated with varnish or other water-repellent compounds. For best results, apply at least two coats.

   If roughness occurs on the surface of the veneer, they are removed with sandpaper.

It is important to follow the basic rule of sticking natural wood veneer. Fixation and heating of the strips starts from the center. An axial line is drawn in the middle of the canvas, from which the veneer is glued to the right and left.

Upholstery of doors with leatherette or vinyl leather

In order for dermantin to look beautiful, lining material is used, which at the same time insulates the doors. As a rule, it is sheet foam rubber or synthetic winterizer. A material such as foil isolon has proven itself well.

Izolon - porous, waterproof material for insulation - used as a gasket for door trim

Upholstery steps are as follows.

1. Sintepon lining. The insulation is attached to the canvas with glue or metal staples using a stapler.
2. Door leaf marking. There is a middle axis from which the fixing of leatherette begins.
3. The canvas of dermantine is cut out. Its dimensions should be 5 cm larger on all sides.
4. The first row of nails is punched through the center of the door. Subsequent rows go to the right and left of the middle. To prevent the material from sagging, it must be evenly stretched as it is fixed.

   With the help of a decorative cord and furniture nails, various patterns are created from artificial leather.

5. Having reached the edge of the door, the leatherette is bent in the form of rollers, which are nailed exactly along the edge of the canvas. Another option is to install a plastic or aluminum profile (according to the principle of a stretch ceiling). The advantageous side of using the profile is the clear outline of the canvas. L - shaped profile is used for both wooden and metal doors. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or glue (or both at the same time).

   Plastic profile is used for edging doors

6. To improve the appearance, a decorative cord is laid between the nails.

Video: replacing dermantin on an old door

We examined the main ways of finishing the door leaf with various materials. There are no legal restrictions in this matter and there is always room for improvisation. Experienced craftsmen recommend always using common sense and wisely using the properties of a particular type of finish. After all, the duration of the service life of the doors and simple human comfort in the house depend on this.

Sooner or later, but any owner of the apartment comes to the conclusion that the insulation of the front door is a necessity. Covering the door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - these are its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The fact that the door should be insulated usually comes in the cold season, when, it would seem, a draft begins to blow into very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to do something like this beforehand?

When solving the issue of transforming the door leaf, you can turn to the simplest method of sheathing - smooth stretching of leatherette, or you can use more complex options when several pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepare the necessary tools and materials for work.

Preparing for the door trim

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future skin, if it has any pattern. This may be a carefully crafted drawing or, in case of emergency, even a simple pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawn up drawing, you can make a list of the necessary materials that will be needed for work:

• Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased at specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is presented. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and texture pattern on the surface. The standard width of leatherette is 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just right for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If the door is sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained during measurement, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed for the manufacture of rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door, and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. These elements will need three pieces.

If the door leaf is sheathed with individual elements of leatherette, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward bending on each individual element by 50 ÷ 100 mm from all sides.

Another option for sheathing with a pattern can be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

• Insulating material will help to achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (embossment) of the pattern, which will be displayed using banners or decorative nails.

If it is insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

• In the case when it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decoration, then it is worth choosing the color of their hats in such a way that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The skin will look more presentable if the nail heads are large enough and the same color as the canvas of the entire skin.

Another option could be nails with metal heads, repeating the color and texture of the material of handles and locks.

• To finish a metal door, you will need glue, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
• For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. Such material will give the roller a neat, uniform rounded shape.

3. For work, you also need to prepare some tools:

• A small hammer for driving nails.
• Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. The optimal staple size is 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Scissors and a construction knife for cutting and cutting materials.
• To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or a screwdriver with different nozzles (bits).
• It will be nice to have pliers and a nail puller on hand, they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin the preparatory work.

• First, from the door you need to remove all installed on it elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
• If the door will be sheathed, on which there is already an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old trim will come off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not fit the new finish.

• Further, some craftsmen remove the door from its hinges and, for the convenience of further work, lay it on several chairs or on a fairly large table. Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
• In most cases, the skin is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trim process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed on both sides - from the outside and the inside, there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wooden and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Paneling inside a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

• The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared strips of leatherette and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed along the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes 4 ÷ 7 mm beyond the canvas, since it must cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller should completely cover the door jamb. The roller is fixed with stapler and staples, starting at the top right corner. From there they go to the upper left corner, then frame the sides with it. It is fixed to the bottom part last.

• The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free along the edges so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door. material - leatherette.

• Next, you need to correctly place the main canvas of leatherette. The main thing is to prevent distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension.

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is bent under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is fixed and the correct direction is checked again, the left side is nailed, and then the right. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

• Then, it is very important to precisely mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
• If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill the markings with decorative carnations, starting from the center of the canvas. In this case, you need to try not to pull the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - outer skin

The door trim, which opens inside the apartment, from the side of the entrance is produced as follows:

• Before starting work, you need to close the door, and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
• The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area, and fixed with brackets.

• Further, with tucking behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first from above, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

• In this case, the insulation roller is fixed to the outside of the door frame jamb from three sides, and it is not installed on the threshold. This element, when fixed, should close the gaps, being on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen in advance.
• The bottom roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply be erased over time, and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since in this case the door will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, should fit snugly against the sill from above, that is, as it were, on it.

• On the roller nailed to the door, the lower part of the main fabric of leatherette is pulled and nailed, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
• Further, holes are made in the leatherette sheathing for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette from the outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

In recent years, in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to wood. It is good if it is possible to immediately purchase insulated and, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame made of a corner or a profile pipe. In this case, the owner of the apartment picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their sheathing.

The inside of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulating and decorative materials goes inside the room, this can be easily fixed by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. To work, you will need materials that are somewhat different from the sheathing of a wooden door.

• Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
• Mounting foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
• Wooden slats for fixing on the inside sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching a decorative panel.
• Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners (profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to the metal frame.
• Decorative nails for fixing leatherette on the plywood surface.
• Wood screws for screwing plywood sheet to wooden slats.
• A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, not more than 10 mm thick.
• Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
• Glue or double-sided tape to secure the insulation to the plywood.

The work on finishing the inner surface of the door is as follows:

• Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. It is first necessary to drill through holes through the rails and metal frame elements.

• After fixing the rails, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed with mounting foam. It will contribute, in addition, to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

• Further, a foam plastic is installed between the fixed and insulated rails, around which foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

• On the plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since they will have to be screwed to them.
• If you need to hide the caps of the self-tapping screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed to its sheathing.
• First, the sheet is twisted to the middle rails, so that all edges remain free to put leatherette behind them.
• Foam rubber is fixed on the installed plywood with glue, or better - with double-sided masking tape.
• Leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and in the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and next to drive a carnation with a decorative hat.
• Further, leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with carnations. Since the nails are quite hard to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
• Thus, the decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
• Then, on it it is necessary to outline location lock, cut leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. Its installation is carried out from below and gradually rise to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

The outer side of the metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, for laying under leatherette, you can use not too thick felt, which is glued to a metal surface.

• The insulation is cut out less than the size of the door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and the leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will go to the edge of the bend on the other side of the sheet.
• A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
• Next, a heater is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to grab and dry.
• Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued on the other side. It is best to use a quick-drying universal adhesive for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side of the door. When excess material is formed on the inversions, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and the fold is too thick at the corners, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

• If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out neat and respectable.

• At the end, door panels are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" trim looks very impressive

Such sheathing is performed in two different ways - from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed if there is no experience in performing such a “filigree” work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. Any fabric can be used for training.

For all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a number of preparatory activities. It is very important not to neglect the careful markup - only in this case you can get geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses.

• For marking, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It must be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
• At the intersections of the lines, round holes are marked and then drilled so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
• Plywood is superimposed on a foam rubber mat and through the holes on it, places are marked where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

• Further, the marked foam rubber is transferred to a wooden base. If it is too thick, then round holes can be cut into it for driving nails.
• A stapler is passed around the holes or drawn circles, nailing the insulation to the base and outlining the recesses.
• Leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when it is nailed.
• Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can proceed to fix it on the door leaf.
• The pieces are superimposed on the foam rubber according to the markup and nailed. You can first outline them with a stapler, and then nail them with decorative carnations.

Each fragment is stacked and fastened separately - extreme accuracy is needed

• It is necessary to ensure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
• Without proper experience, the work will seem rather complicated and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture the same strips that will serve as a foam rubber screed between the nails.

Prices for various types of door upholstery kits

door upholstery kit

Video: one of the options for the "carriage" door trim leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first, in all cases, careful marking of the door leaf is necessary.

If this work is done independently, then not only will there be experience and skill in its implementation, but also a significant amount will be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking a chance by training to start on small planes.

TOP-12 best entrance door manufacturers

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
Best Budget Entry Doors
#1		Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4		Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5		Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best elite entrance doors
#1		Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5		Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6		Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7		guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Stal brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to a complex design that provides high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. System protection is provided to prevent unauthorized opening. The lineup of Steel is constantly updated. The customer can choose from powder coated, wood, veneer or laminated panel finishes. The catalog contains both models of classic design and exclusive design developments.

• a wide range of;
• value for money.

• some models do not differ in branded quality.

Neman

A distinctive feature of Neman entrance doors is the richest collection of models. A large number of patents for manufacturing technologies have been received. Thanks to innovative approaches, it is possible to create reliable and durable alloy steel structures. The manufacturer strictly controls the quality of each detail, carefully selects accessories from third-party companies. Handles and hinges consumers can choose as they wish. Even standard models are equipped with two locks.

• products have patents and certificates;
• acceptable price;
• stylish look.

• budget doors are weak.

outpost

In order to successfully compete in the domestic market, the Russian company Forpost had to launch door production in China. Since 2009, the products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are satisfied with the products. They note the good build quality, a rich model range, and a developed service network. Not without doors and some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance on the market of low-quality fakes.

• affordable price for prestigious models;
• wide service network;
• rich range.

• counterfeit products appeared;
• poor sound insulation in budget models;
• Fittings fit only original.

Bravo

Today, the manufacturer boasts a model range of 350 units. Here the buyer has a lot to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern types of doors, from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishing. Doors also differ structurally, in the range there are sliding, folding and special models. Door leafs under such brands as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian Doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials, they meet the stringent requirements of international standards.

• a wide range of products;
• affordable price;
• a wide variety of designs and finishes.

• thin metal;
• bad soundproofing.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced by the domestic manufacturer Bravo. They are a premium line. For the manufacture of canvases, thick steel is used, fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool as a heater. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffeners, equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the products correspond to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors of this series are not only distinguished by strength and durability. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For decoration, the manufacturer used a wide range of decorative panels.

Cloths may lose their attractive appearance over time, and the owners are seriously thinking about replacing them. But this is not always reasonable - in most cases, the situation is corrected by finishing wooden doors.

To return the canvas to a neat look, it is upholstered with different materials, decorated with fittings. It is quite possible to do this on your own. For sheathing wooden doors you will need:

• scissors;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• building and decorative nails;
• mounting adhesive;
• necessary accessories;
• insulation;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• ticks;
• selected finishing material.

What materials are suitable for upholstery?

To update the door structure, spending a minimum of time and effort, you can simply paint the canvas in any color. Sheathing a wooden door is a more labor-intensive and time-consuming task.

Different materials are suitable for upholstery of wooden doors with your own hands.

• Laminate represents boards for finishing, from the inside, laid with waterproof paper. The modern construction market offers many design options for this material: wood, stone, tile, etc. Thanks to this range, you can create a beautiful decorative design for a door in any interior. In addition, the laminate provides excellent heat and sound insulation. But due to the hygroscopicity of the material, it is used only for interior cladding.

• Plastic- Polyvinyl chloride finish with the addition of chemicals that increase the resistance of the material to high temperatures, ultraviolet radiation and moisture. It is easy to install and maintain. Vinyl plastic is widely used for finishing - a durable, elastic material that is easily attached with glue to wood, concrete, metal. Usually plastic is not sheathed on the outside of products, it mainly serves for interior decoration.

• If selected for upholstery, then experts advise sheathing the door with leatherette made on the basis of synthetic fabric. Such a material is elastic, stretches easily, does not crack even at high temperatures, has high strength, can be of various shades and is suitable for upholstery on both the inside and outside of the canvas.

• Door trim MDF panels popular because of their resistance to moisture and mechanical damage. This is achieved by coating with a polyvinyl chloride film. MDF, you can finish the front door with your own hands.

• A great solution would be to sheathe an old wooden door. clapboard. This material is a wooden slats of small thickness, equipped with special grooves for ease of attachment.

• Marine plywood It looks like solid wood from the outside. It is treated with stain and covered with frost-resistant varnish, so it can be used to decorate entrance doors.

Preparatory work

• Dismantling of locks, peephole, decor, handles.
• Careful removal of the old coating. The main thing is not to damage the sash.
• Removing the canvas from the hinges and laying it horizontally on a table or several stools.
• Cutting material for finishing according to the parameters of the sash.

Leather upholstery

In the past, a leatherette-trimmed canvas was considered a luxury. Now it is already a more affordable decor option, and it is very popular. A neat appearance, good heat and sound insulation properties make leatherette an excellent solution for sheathing a door.

Wooden

Wooden doors can be finished both from the inside and from the outside. There are some differences in technology.

In the case of working with wooden products from the inside, they begin by determining the scheme for opening the door - inward or outward. This determines the size and location of the sealing beads.

Upholstery inside do-it-yourself leatherette doors step by step:

WITH outside the upholstery process is as follows:

• The door is closed and 1 cm recede from the edge of the canvas.
• On the bottom, just above the edge of the sash, a sealing roller is fixed.
• The fabric is upholstered with insulation, starting at the top and descending evenly on both sides. It is important to prevent sagging of the material.
• The last step is to cover the door with leatherette, securing the folded edges with nails. If desired, a pattern is formed with decorative fasteners.

metal

Facing metal doors with leatherette is a more complicated matter. Most modern manufacturers supply doors that already have interior trim. But some inexpensive models do not have such elements and require independent upholstery.

Scheme interior decoration metal door:

• The steel sheet of the canvas must be overlaid around the perimeter with wooden slats, attach the foam and seal the cracks with mounting foam. Close the resulting layer with a sheet of plywood.
• On the door, carefully pulling, impose a heater, fixing it with glue or staples.
• Leatherette is cut to the size of the sash, leaving a margin for tucking.
• The material is fixed from above, then, pulling, they fall along the edges.

If desired, a pattern is created on the canvas using decorative elements.

Scheme outer upholstery metal doors:

• According to the size of the sash, a synthetic winterizer or foam rubber is cut, making it 8–10 mm smaller than the canvas.
• Leatherette is cut according to the formula: the size of the insulation plus 6–7 cm.
• Glue the insulation on the door. You need to wait a while for the material to adhere.
• Attach a layer of leatherette, evenly stretching so that there is no sagging. The edges are folded over the ends of the canvas and fixed with glue.
• Install the necessary fittings.

Clapboard lining

The lining is ideal for upholstery of wood and metal products, entrance and outdoor canvases. Reiki are easy to assemble due to the fact that they are equipped with special grooves.

Wooden

Independently and with a minimum of costs, you can sheathe a wooden door with clapboard. The technology is quite simple:

• Prepare the door leaf for upholstery by removing it and removing the old covering.
• Place horizontally.
• Cut the lining to the desired size.
• Attach the first rail with the finishing nail exactly along the edge of the canvas. Use a level to adjust.
• The next panels are tightly joined to the previous ones and secured with nails.
• Clean up ends when finished.
• Treat the finished surface with varnish, wait until it dries, and install the fittings.

metal

This process is more complex. Preparation is the same as in the first case. Reiki are cut to the required size.

You can attach them to the door leaf in two ways:

• use special fasteners (kleimers) to place the skin directly on the metal;
• make a wooden frame from a narrow beam to the size of the door and attach the slats to it, joining them with each other and fixing them with nails. This option is well suited if additional door insulation is planned: the heat-insulating material is laid under the crate.

They finish the work by sanding the ends, varnishing and then installing the necessary fittings.