We decide what material to build a garage. Budget and simple garage construction: how to build cheaper, from what materials? Building a big garage
There are a lot of ways to build a garage with your own hands: from a simple iron box with minimal amenities to a full-fledged brick building with several rooms and the ability to live in the summer. Most men perceive the garage as a personal territory where you can do what you love - take care of the car, make crafts, relax with friends, and so on.
To begin with, you should answer the main question: why do you need a garage? Think about how you are going to use it, what you need it for in the first place. The budget, complexity of construction, material and a set of additional amenities will depend on this.
The few motorists who simply need a place to store their car often opt for private parking lots with a canopy or buy special metal boxes.
Small houses are transported on a tractor, their installation takes several hours. Those who wish to use the garage as a warehouse, workshop or place of rest should take the issue of building more seriously. For most purposes, a strong and durable building with additional amenities such as electricity and water is needed. Also take into account the peculiarities of the climate of your region: construction in the northern latitudes will cost more, and the technology is more difficult. Building a garage with your own hands in warm latitudes with little rainfall is easier and cheaper, but choosing a good place can be a question.
How to choose a seat
Many motorists prefer to build on the territories of garage cooperatives. In this case, you avoid serious problems with amenities and accommodation. Renting a plot of land and building a garage will be inexpensive. Often the owners of the cooperative offer a choice of one of several plans, taking into account the dimensions of the car, the height of the building, the summing up of communications, and the maintenance of the building. In addition, your garage will be guarded around the clock - you can not worry that your property will be damaged or stolen.
If you are building a garage on your site, the main problems will be the choice of location and the design of the road. Let us immediately indicate that building a house with a garage is not recommended - a large room with iron gates will take heat in in winter, the unpleasant smell of gasoline and oil can become a hindrance to your relatives. It is better to choose a site 5-10 meters from the house, so that the garage gate and the gate from the yard are on the same line. It is better to make the distance from the garage to them about ten meters - so it will be possible to drive the car out of the garage during repairs or other work, but it will remain in your yard.
Land selection
The best option is to build on a flat piece of land. Before starting work, dig down with a shovel about a meter - make sure that there is no sand or cavities below (especially true for areas with sharp elevation changes or near rivers). A good site will untie your hands and allow you to build a large and heavy building.
The construction of a garage in the city, near multi-storey buildings, must be agreed with the architecture department or a similar body. Illegal construction of a garage, even a metal box, is fraught with serious legal troubles. In this case, it is better to take a building plot for a long-term lease or purchase.
Size and design
As we said, it all depends on the goals. A standard metal box has dimensions of approximately 4x4x2.3 meters - enough to put a car in and make a simple repair.
A good brick garage will measure about 5 x 8 x 3 meters with a flat slate roof or a simple concrete slab. Such dimensions suggest not only a place for a car. Workbenches and machines, cabinets and shelves for storing parts, fuel, chemicals for interior care, tools and more. In special cases, a garage is built with a greater depth (up to 12 meters), for a place for a motorcycle or trailer (relevant for rural areas).
When choosing a building material, you should focus on the local market. If a brick factory, a metal rolling shop or sand or stone quarries is located near the place of residence, the cost of construction can be reduced by purchasing materials in bulk.
- Some craftsmen erect a wooden garage. The cheapness of such a design and ease of construction are the main advantages, however, if the technology is not followed, this garage can become a grave for a car. The tree is very afraid of dampness and fire, its use as a workshop also raises questions.
- Another thing is aerated concrete blocks. They are easy to put even for a beginner, they are relatively cheap and available for purchase almost throughout the CIS. However, their cost is quite high at the moment.
- A brick garage with competent masonry of 1.5-2 bricks is preferable. This is an expensive construction, but it will last more than 100 years if the technology is followed. It can be sold by recapturing the price of construction (especially if there are communications).
Do-it-yourself garage foundation
For walls made of brick or aerated concrete, a foundation is required. It will become a solid support for a heavy structure, allowing the garage to last for decades without major repairs. 
A standard foundation pit has a depth of up to 1-1.5 meters, a width of at least half a meter. You can dig it out manually or with the help of special equipment (if available). The choice of foundation is determined by several parameters:
Types of foundations for a garage
A monolithic foundation made of stone and concrete mortar is considered traditional (proportion: 1 part of Portland cement to 3 parts of screening). The stone is laid in a pit in an even layer of 30-40 cm, first large fragments, then medium ones, at the end crushed stone. It is worth pouring in one or two passes with a liquid solution. After the solution seeps between the stones, pour again 5-10 cm below their level. Then lay a new stand in the same way, pour a solution with a greater density.
Installing such a foundation will take several days, and sometimes a week, but it will become a solid foundation for construction.
The foundation should be 20-30 cm above ground level. At the final stage, it is worth laying large fragments so that they create a flat plane around the entire perimeter (use a long water level or a pendulum). Thick concrete and sheets of roofing material will help you finally level the level of the foundation. After that, you can start building walls of brick or aerated concrete.
For a wooden garage or an iron box, the foundation can be just a concrete pad with metal pipes of medium diameter poured around the perimeter of the garage. Profiles for the frame of a wooden building or the metal box itself can be welded to them.
Recently, the common methods of installing the foundation are tape, monolithic and pile (columnar, prefabricated).
- Tape - reinforced concrete structure with tape pouring of concrete into the pit. Metal reinforcement gives stability to the future structure, concrete creates a pillow for the future building. Before laying, it is worth pouring dry sand to the bottom of the pit and waterproofing the future foundation.
- Columnar or pile is a foundation of concrete piles (2-3 meters distance between them) and concrete filling of cavities. The main advantage of such a foundation is ease of installation, however, it also requires special equipment.
- A monolithic slab is another type of strip foundation, which involves pouring a huge concrete pad reinforced with concrete. At the bottom of the pit, a depth of 0.5-1.5 meters (depending on the type of soil - the more stable, the thinner the pillow can be), sand is covered with an even layer. Then it is necessary to protect the future pillow from water and pour the reinforcement frame (sometimes a large stone is used) with concrete. The disadvantages of such a foundation are the high cost and the need for special equipment (ideally, a concrete truck). If the foundation is made of stone, the concrete can be mixed with a small concrete mixer or even a small container (bath, balia) by hand.
The expediency of the pit in the garage
If you are an avid car enthusiast or are engaged in private vehicle repair, you need a pit. You will be able to independently repair the chassis, without the risk of being crushed by your own car if the jack fails. In addition, the garage pit is often used as a makeshift cellar for vegetables - and this is no joke. All useful space of the garage can be used in the household.
When calculating the parameters of the pit, it is worth considering the distance between the wheels of the car, its weight and overall dimensions. For heavy cars (over 1.5 tons), it is worth taking care of the foundation for the pit - this will become an additional reinforcement of the structure. A standard pit measures 5x.05x1 meters and is dug exactly in the middle of the garage. If space allows - make steps from the side of the gate for a convenient descent into the pit (for example, pour out of concrete). Steps can also play the role of shelves for tools during repairs. A wooden or iron ladder for descending into the pit is not recommended - it is inconvenient and traumatic in the cold season. 
Walling
Wooden walls - the erection of beams along the perimeter (about a meter of distance between them), fastening them together in the upper plane with the help of transverse beams. Use iron staples to reinforce the structure. The walls should be made of long boards, having previously covered them with a primer. For additional insulation, place sheets of foam or mineral wool between the outer boards and the inner ones. Building a garage from solid logs (like a log house) is also possible, but it will cost you a round sum. 
Brick walls are a popular option for building a red or white brick garage. The thickness of the walls varies from 20 to 50 cm, depending on the type of roof. Wall laying always starts from the corner. Use a simple water tool or a more expensive laser tool to level the level. It is necessary to lay a brick on a thick cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand: 1 to 3). Ligation of bricks should be overlapped. Beautiful masonry, such as "Lipetsk" or facing brick, is laid last and only on a powerful foundation. If the garage provides windows, then you should take care of concrete floors, which you can purchase or cast yourself. 
It is not recommended to make large windows for the garage, as in the house. A good option would be small but wide windows in the upper third of the wall. They will give enough light, but save a large amount of workspace.
Aerated concrete, like brick or cinder blocks, overlaps from the corner. The construction of walls from this material is easier and faster, but the price per m3 will be more expensive. If you can use used materials for building a brick garage (for example, for an additional room or interior decoration), then in the case of aerated concrete, you should choose one specific type of block and purchase a sufficient amount of it. In warehouses or specialized sites, use the calculator to calculate the required number of gas blocks.
The roof as the most problematic part of the construction
Building garage walls with your own hands is easy - two strong men can do it in no more than a month. However, installing a roof often causes a lot of difficulties. For a budget option, simple concrete floors are used, which are installed at an angle, down to the back of the garage. 2-3 standard floors are enough to build a simple and reliable roof. To protect from rain, cover such an overlap with roofing felt and tar. 
If it is not possible to lay concrete floors, slate or corrugated board will be a good way out. A wood frame with a slight slope towards the back of the garage will make a good base for the slate. The gaps between a flat ceiling and slate can be bricked.
A more complex option is a triangular roof with a small attic between the planes. In this case, you will have to order wooden beams and install them on an already finished ceiling plane. Wooden beams will become the legs of an isosceles triangle, fastened with brackets to each other at the top of the triangle. Lighter boards with the help of long self-tapping screws fasten the triangles together.
Slate sheets are placed from the bottom up, so that water does not leak under the sheets. Slate nails are driven directly into the beams, so the distance between them should be small (optimal - the width of the slate sheet minus the width of two waves).
Do-it-yourself garage door
First, let's calculate the width of the gate. The formula is simple: the width of your car + 0.5-1 meter for free entry and exit from the garage. There are several ways to make a convenient gate:
- Rising up. Slatted gates that go up and in, under the ceiling, are now gaining popularity, but their operation requires electricity to power the lifts. They are installed by small private companies.
- An easier option is to weld metal gates. The framework of double-leaf gate is cooked from metal profiles. The plane can be either a solid metal sheet or a wooden shield knocked down from boards. Take care of the place under the castle in advance.
- Curtains for the gate must be taken the largest. They are welded to a metal frame, which is assembled separately and installed during the construction of the walls.
- The gate must open outwards. For a large canvas, it is worth making two manual latch locks that will hold the canvas by the lower and upper parts of the frame. This will keep the gate from bending during gusts of wind and distortions that may come with time.
Garage interior decoration
If you just store the car in the garage and do nothing else there, it will be enough to wipe the cracks between bricks or blocks with mortar. In the case of using the garage as a workshop, you should take care of the functionality of the space - make an exhaust hood, putty the walls, punch out places for socket boxes, pour metal frames under workbenches. Painting the walls for such a structure is not needed. Also pay attention to the ease of cleaning - there should be no closed corners, the perimeter should be ventilated.
Lighting is best placed around the entire perimeter - 4 neon lamps above the work surface with independent switches to save energy. 
Heating and insulation of the garage
This is worth taking care of if you work in a garage or live in northern latitudes with cold and frosty winters. Styrofoam insulation in the garage is a possible option. Sheets of 5 cm foam will protect the building from heat loss.
Garage heating is best arranged using portable heat blowers. Small electric batteries and fans placed around the perimeter will be a good way to heat the room. 
Installation of autonomous heating, water-type batteries (in the case of a garage attached to the house) is theoretically possible, but practically not used in practice.
Drawings and diagrams for building a garage with your own hands
There is a huge amount of such information on the Internet. However, for planning a garage for a specific land, vehicle, and purpose, it is best to consult an experienced architect. Spend several thousand rubles on a consultation with an expert who will help you draw up a competent drawing of the future structure. Not only the survivability of the structure, but also your safety directly depends on this. 
In public libraries, you can still find old Soviet books on the topic "how to build a garage with your own hands." Even though new materials and building techniques are coming to the market every day, classic garage building schemes can be useful to you. At least they can be used to calculate the overall dimensions.
Estimated estimate for construction
- Price of land (or rent)
- The work of an architect
- The price of building materials
- Rent of special equipment
- Laying communications.
Building a garage in the countryside will cost you about 100,000 rubles.
For the city, this price can be three times more expensive (due to the expensive delivery of materials and the peculiarities of the legislation).
Popular questions and answers
- How to conduct electricity in the garage?
If it is built on the territory of a garage cooperative, this is not a problem. Contact the administration, and you will be allocated a cable. You only have to buy a meter and sign a contract. For a garage near a private house, the cable can be laid underground from the house or above the ground (at least 3 meters high). In urban areas, it is more difficult to conduct light. To do this, contact the department of architecture and the power supply company.
- What is the best place to place workbenches and machines for a garage workshop?
It is better to place them on the back wall of the garage. In the same place it is better to place several sockets, a place for a compressor, put cabinets for consumables.
- How to choose a lock for a garage?
If the garage is located near the house - a large lock with a long key is enough. If the garage is far from home, install 2-3 different types of locks (Hinged, internal with different keys).
Sometimes the owners install an alarm against robbers. Bars on the windows are also not uncommon.
- How to secure a garage from fire?
Facing with refractory bricks, construction from aerated concrete blocks or other refractory material will be a good protection. You should also take care of the grounding of the electrical network.
Styrofoam insulation reduces fire protection - for some types of foam, the temperature of a burning cigarette is enough to catch fire. If insulation is installed around the entire perimeter of the garage, then it will easily flare up even from a small fire. Learn it.
- Should I make several rooms in the garage?
If you are going to be engaged in repair and production - yes. A small partition can be made in order to protect the machine from dust and dirt. In addition, sometimes a garage is attached to a summer kitchen, a barn and other outbuildings. This is a good option to save space while maintaining the working space.
Garage near the house with block house cladding
You have decided to build a house for your car, but are short of money, how to make sure that the garage is spacious, solid, and there is enough money? In the article we will tell you what material is cheaper to build a garage, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
What manufacturers offer
The building consists of the following structures:
- Foundation.
- Walls.
- Roof.
- Gates.
- Finishing.
We will analyze each item separately, we will try to choose the most economical type of material for each construct.
Foundation
A strip base is usually brought under the garage (see).
It is made from several types of material:
- Precast concrete blocks.
The advantages of such a foundation are in the speed of installation, strength and reliability. Of these, you can also lay out a basement in the garage or a viewing hole. But the price of the blocks is quite high, in order to bring and install them, you will have to hire expensive equipment, specialists in working with a crane and installing reinforced concrete.
This option is good when there are used blocks available, a friend works on a crane and is ready to help for a nominal fee, and the owner of the construction site has the skill and experience of installation work.
- Concrete poured into the installed formwork with mandatory reinforcement.
In this case, you will only have to spend money on cement and sand and gravel; any suitable material is used for formwork: used boards, shields, plywood, metal sheets, that is, everything that can be at hand. For reinforcement, you can also find used rebar, meshes or any metal profile, pieces or trimmings that tie together into a single structure will fit.
You can make a concrete mixture manually or using a small (0.5 m3) mortar mixer, which one of the garage neighbors or friends will probably have. Of course, this option will take some time and effort, but, as they say, "your work does not count" if you need to save on materials and work.
- Brick or foam, cinder blocks.
To make such a foundation on your own, you need some experience and knowledge of brickwork, and hiring a specialist will cost a lot. In addition, the surface of blocks or bricks will require mandatory multi-layer waterproofing from moisture penetration and protection of the material from destruction.
So, based on the foregoing, we conclude that the most cost-effective foundation for a garage is a “tape” of concrete mix, made and poured with your own hands.
Walls
The garage belongs to light buildings, and this construct experiences minor loads - the roof and precipitation, so powerful, thick walls are not needed here.
If the garage is adjacent to the house, then you can save on one wall, the main thing is to correctly connect the two buildings. We will not develop this topic here, instructions for docking a garage with a house are available on any construction site.
Let's talk about inexpensive materials from which you can build walls:
| Dimensions of the building (cottage, garage, bathhouse, etc.) | ||
| Wall perimeter, m | ||
| Wall height, m | ||
| Windows and doors | ||
| Entrance door, pcs. | ||
| Door width, m | ||
| Door height, m | ||
| Windows, number of pieces | ||
| Width of one window, m | ||
| Height of one window, m | ||
| Choose building material and masonry | ||
| Material type Expanded clay blocks, masonry in 0.5 blocks, wall 20 cm. Expanded clay blocks, masonry in 1 block, wall 40 cm. Cinder blocks, masonry in 0.5 blocks, wall 20 cm. Cinder blocks, masonry in 1 block, wall 40 cm. Brick cladding, thickness 0.5 bricks or 12 cm. Thick brick cladding, wall thickness 0.5 bricks |
||
So, now you know how many expanded clay blocks or cinder blocks are needed for your building. Now, with the help of simple calculations on a conventional electronic calculator, you can find out the total amount of money for all the blocks needed for a cottage or garage.
But these materials are very hygroscopic, so you will have to sheathe the garage from the outside to protect against weathering, which will require additional costs.
- Brick (see).
- Blocks of foam, gas and slag concrete.
- Metal.
- Precast concrete.
- Beam or board.
- The brick does not require special finishing, as a rule, it is left in its original form from the outside, and from the inside the walls can simply be covered with water-based paint.
- A block garage requires an exterior finish, it can be a planed board, lining, siding or simple plaster - what you can afford, inside it will not be out of place to plaster in one layer and also cover it with water emulsion or lime.
- A metal garage is painted with wear-resistant paint both outside and inside.
A self-sufficient material that does not require additional cladding, the construction of it is durable, strong and reliable, the advantage is also the light weight and compactness of the material, but the construction will take some time, possibly longer than we would like. In addition, the cost of a brick is probably the highest in relation to others, and construction will require skill and special skills.
Due to the dimensions of the material, the construction time is reduced, the building will be light, warm, durable, the cost of the blocks is affordable, and transportation will not be difficult. In addition, the mass of walls made of foam blocks does not require a powerful foundation, in which case you can save a little on the foundation.
From sheet steel it is possible if the owner has welding skills, or it is possible to hire a specialist. A frame garage with metal sheathing will cost less than a brick or foam block.
The disadvantage of a metal garage is its high thermal conductivity, in other words, it will be very cold in it in winter, the walls will require insulation or the installation of a heater. If this factor does not matter, then the best material for building a garage is sheet steel.
Walls made of reinforced concrete panels are quickly assembled, the work can be completed in a day. Plates are either bought (used ones are suitable, but without visible defects), or they are poured on their own. In this case, you will have to spend money on cement and sand and gravel), concrete is prepared using a small concrete mixer.
A precast concrete garage is strong, durable, with some insulation it will be comfortable in any weather. Although installation will require the use of a crane or manipulator, if you work effectively, you can save a lot on payment.
A frame structure made of wood will cost quite inexpensively, but the high fire hazard of such a building makes you think about the need to build a garage from this material.
It is not easy to unequivocally answer the question of what material is better to build a garage, and in particular walls. All the materials offered can be purchased at an affordable price, they are great for building a building, it all depends on your capabilities.
Important! If you are familiar with the work of a bricklayer, then a brick or foam concrete garage is what you need. If you have a familiar crane operator, then it is easier to pour and install wall panels. And the ability to hire a welder or the ability to hold an electrode will help you make metal garage walls.
Roof
It can be of two types: single-slope and dual-slope, we will not talk about a more complex and expensive configuration, since our question is to build a garage at minimal cost.
The ceiling is made of hollow slabs or timber, the ceiling is hemmed with a board or plywood. For rafters, they take a board at least 40 mm thick, for battens - a board of 25–30 mm (in order to save money, you can use unedged, but you have to remove the wane, otherwise the wood will quickly rot).
Such a roof will help solve the issue of insulation, the floor in the attic can be covered with slag, which is the most inexpensive and affordable insulation material. Roofing material for a gable roof can be a professional sheet or ordinary asbestos-cement slate, proven over the years, an inexpensive, practical and durable material.
For overlapping, reinforced concrete slabs are taken, which are laid directly on the walls with a slight slope to drain rain and snow water. Here, the ceiling serves as a roof at the same time. The joints are caulked with mortar or filled with mounting foam, a cement screed 50 mm thick is arranged on the surface for leveling.
Roofing materials for a garage with a shed roof are usually used rolled, welded, although roofing material can be purchased from savings, but this is a rather short-lived material, prone to rapid destruction, cracking, and so on. Here it is better not to save money and buy more modern deposited materials, for example, technonikol.
So, if you choose from these two types of roofing, it is clear that a shed will cost 10-15% cheaper.
Gates
Ordinary metal swing gates will become the most cost-effective, they are reliable, strong and perfectly perform the necessary protective functions. It is enough to paint them 2 times with paint for metal for outdoor work.
Finishing
Depending on what material the garage is built from, the interior and exterior decoration depends. Usually, no one excels when decorating a garage, but still it doesn’t hurt to do the most necessary things.
Conclusion
To find out for yourself what to build a garage from at the lowest cost, you must first calculate the building materials for the garage, starting with the foundation and ending with roofing and finishing, and then choose the most affordable materials.
Important! The estimate must include the costs of registration of the building in the relevant authorities.
We hope that the thematic photos and videos provided by us will help you in solving this issue.
Let us consider in detail the construction of a garage with our own hands: which foundation, walls and roof to choose.
We will try to consider the pros and cons of various materials and approaches to construction as much as possible.
The choice of foundation and its calculation is best left to specialists. In the absence of such an opportunity, you need to focus on the weight of the walls and the characteristics of the soil. The strength of the soil can be tentatively estimated by excavating a pit at the construction site. It would be useful to talk with neighbors-developers.
Helpful information:
On solid soils, the best solution would be to use strip foundations for garages with brick walls and columnar foundations for wooden buildings. In flooded areas and peatlands, a monolithic slab or screw piles are suitable. If the depth of soil freezing is more than two meters, the use of shallow foundations will provide significant savings. Consider all factors and your garage will serve for many years.
Foundation for a garage
The foundation is the basis of the garage, the reliability and service life of the entire structure depend on the correct choice of its design. The type of foundation should be chosen taking into account the weight of the wall materials and the characteristics of the soil at the construction site.
Monolithic strip foundation
The erection of a monolithic strip foundation is performed in the following sequence:
- They dig a trench with a depth of 5 cm exceeding the height of the underground part of the base.
- Layers of sand and gravel 5 cm thick are laid at the bottom of the trench, the sand and gravel cushion is carefully rammed.
- Expose formwork. The formwork serves to ensure that the cement milk from the concrete mixture is not absorbed into the soil. On clay soils that do not allow water to pass through, the installation of formwork is not necessary. A trench is dug along the width of the foundation and its walls serve as formwork.
- If necessary, tie the reinforcement.
- Concrete is laid in layers of 30 cm, each layer is compacted with a rammer or vibrator.
- After the foundation has hardened for 28 days, two layers of roofing felt waterproofing are laid on top of it and the walls are erected.
During the construction of the base from buta, the stones are laid in layers of 30 cm on a sand-gravel cushion and poured with a cement-sand mortar.
Tape base of foundation blocks
The use of foundation blocks greatly facilitates construction. The disadvantage is the need to use a crane. For the foundation for the garage, FBS-9-Z-6t blocks with a size of 88x30x58 cm and a weight of 350 kg and FBS-9-4-6t with a size of 88x40x58 cm and a weight of 470 kg are used.
The bottom row of blocks is installed on a sand cushion. Vertical joints are filled with cement-sand mortar. A layer of mortar is applied to the upper surface of the blocks and the next row is laid with overlapping joints. If the height of the foundation is not a multiple of the height of the block, it is increased to the desired level with a layer of concrete.
On subsidence and undermined soils, block foundations are reinforced with monolithic reinforced concrete belts located in the upper and lower parts of the foundation.
slab foundation
The slab foundation is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, on the edges of which the walls rest. It is used on soft soils and in the case when groundwater is located close to the surface. The advantage of using the plate is a small amount of earthworks, the disadvantages are the impossibility of building a viewing hole and a basement and an increased consumption of reinforcement.
Construction is carried out in the following sequence:
- remove the fertile soil layer;
- lay and ram the sand cushion;
- a layer of film waterproofing is laid on the sand;
- formwork is installed around the perimeter of the garage;
- one above the other, two meshes of reinforcement are mounted;
- laying and ramming concrete;
- the side surfaces of the plate are insulated with foam.
For a garage, it is enough to make a plate with a thickness of 10 - 20 cm. The dimensions of the mesh cell are 20x20 cm, the diameter of the reinforcement is 12 mm. With severe frost heaving and in the conditions of the Far North, the lower surface of the plate is insulated.
Column Foundation
Column bases are used for garages with light wooden, frame or foam concrete walls. They are carried out to the depth of freezing of the soil or shallow. The material for the manufacture of pillars are concrete and concrete blocks, steel and asbestos-cement pipes. Most often, concrete pillars are used.
Work is performed in the following order:
- dig pits under the pillars;
- sand cushions are arranged at their bottom;
- if necessary, tie the reinforcement;
- collect formwork;
- pour foundations with concrete;
- after the concrete has gained strength, two layers of waterproofing are laid on the upper surface of the base;
- the pillars are connected by beams that serve as the basis for the walls.
The beam can be wooden, metal or reinforced concrete. The cross section of the pillars and the width of the beam are chosen 10 cm more than the thickness of the walls. Pillars are installed at the corners of the garage, at the junction of the walls and after 1.5 - 3 m between them.
Screw piles
A screw pile is made from a metal pipe, one end of which is pointed, the other is equipped with a flange. Blades are welded to the pipe near the pointed end. The piles are coated with an anti-corrosion compound that provides a service life of more than 140 years. The advantages of screw piles are:
- the possibility of building on any soil (with the exception of rocky and stony), while the level of groundwater does not matter;
- resistance to frost heaving of the soil;
- savings of 30 - 60% compared to the tape base;
- the minimum amount of earthworks;
- reduction of construction time.
For garages with light walls, piles with a diameter of 108 mm can be used, with heavy ones - 133 mm. Piles are produced in lengths from 1650 to 7000 mm. The length is chosen so that the blades rest on solid rocks and are located below the freezing depth of the soil.
When installing piles, first pits are dug about 40 cm deep. A pile is inserted into the pit and rotated clockwise using a special tool. In winter, leader wells are pre-drilled. After installing all the piles, they are connected by beams.
garage walls
Foam concrete garage
To begin with, it is worth understanding what is foam concrete? Foam concrete is concrete with bubbles inside. It would be more correct to say, not just concrete, but cellular concrete. It is created from four components: mortar, a mixture of sand, water and a foam forming component.
The material is light, strong and at the same time has good heat-retaining properties. The block size is 20 * 30 * 60 cm. That is, one block is equal, in volume, to fifteen bricks. The cost is about 100 rubles. for 1 foam block
What is the advantage of building a garage from foam blocks?
The main advantages that can be identified:
- The speed of construction, relative to the brick walls of the garage. Foam blocks are easy to saw and grind.
- Light weight. The possibility of erecting walls in one hand, i.e. on one's own.
- The cost of wall material is much cheaper than brick or other traditional materials.
- Resistant to the appearance of mold, not subject to decay.
- Difficulty in finishing, requires special fastening material.
How to fold a garage wall from foam blocks?
Installation of foam blocks is quite simple. We breed special glue. It is sold in bags of 10 or 25 kg. We breed according to the manufacturer's instructions, but as a rule, it is about 5-6 liters per 25 kg of dry mix. The thickness of the adhesive layer is up to 5 mm, but with a quality material, a seam can be achieved within 2-3 mm.
We put the foam block on the foundation, coat it with the “bottom and side” and put the next block along the pre-tensioned index thread. It is easy to cut the block, you need to take an ordinary hacksaw, although a special device is used for the guide - a metal corner. For applying glue, you can also purchase a special “spatula”. The partition of the entrance, where the future gate will be installed, is reinforced with a beam or a double board. Do the same with windows if you have them in your project.
frame garage
The technology of building frame walls came to us relatively recently from the west. But Russian masters have already mastered it completely and appreciated it. For the construction of walls of materials you will need: timber 100 * 200 or 200 * 200 for the lower piping of the foundation. Board 150 * 50 for the frame of the walls and the top trim. Board 100 * 50 for jib. Floor board of your choice, but not less than 40 mm thick.
The advantages of such a construction:
- Fast installation. In the presence of all materials, the walls can be erected in 2-3 days alone.
- Low cost. Construction savings. A cubic meter of boards 150 * 50 is enough to install the frame.
- At low costs for insulation, freezing of the "pie" of the walls.
- Not great strength, the roof should be chosen easier.
How to build a frame garage with your own hands?
First, the “bottom” is assembled, that is, we make the lower trim and fill the floor. Next, we assemble the walls and raise them with the help of assistants or a winch / lever system. We align and perform the top trim. We cut the stubs. Next, we wrap the outside with a vapor barrier material of the “isospan” type and upholster the outside to taste. It can be OSB, plywood, boards for further upholstery with siding. Inside, we lay insulation, mineral wool or polystyrene between the boards, and also wrap it with vapor barrier material. The walls are ready for the interior of the garage.
This type of construction is the longest and most expensive, but capital and durable. The walls of the garage, as a rule, are built in one and a half bricks. That is, the thickness of the wall will be equal to the length of the brick plus another half. You can, of course, build in one brick. Perfect for a garage. It will take quite a lot of cement mortar. For 400 bricks - 1 m3, it will take from 0.18 to 0.22 m3 of mortar. You will also need iron for a reinforcing belt, which must be built horizontally into the masonry every 5-10 rows.
- High strength
- High heat resistance
- Various exterior and interior finishes are available.
- Durability, does not rot
- The high cost of construction
- Very long build
- Mason skills required
A cinder block is a block of cement, water and slag. The slag can include screenings in the manufacture of concrete, sawdust, etc. The blocks are cast in a mold, pressed and then dried. The main advantage of the cinder block is the cost. Such blocks cost at least 1.5-2 times cheaper than foam or gas silicate blocks. But in terms of heat loss, cinder blocks can be compared with them.
- Low cost of materials. Cheap blocks are stacked on glue.
- Good heat resistance.
- The speed of construction.
- Fear of moisture.
- Isolation of harmful and radioactive substances. Not suitable for residential areas.
- Fragility.
- Not enough durability up to 25-30 years.
Sawdust cinder block option -.
Garage roof
A garage for a car enthusiast is a second home. Here we can spend a lot of time, so it is important that the beloved car is kept in a warm, dry and cozy place. Its condition will largely depend on the quality of the roof. There are many roofing materials on the market. Their choice depends on the structural features of the garage and the financial capabilities of the owner. Slate, metal, tiles are used for roofing, but, most often, the roof is made of roofing material and corrugated board.
roof made of ruberoid
This material is often used for garage roofing, because it is affordable and practical, has good waterproofing properties. It is resistant to temperature changes, sunlight and precipitation. The coating does not require complex maintenance, and there are usually no difficulties with repairing the roof. For the manufacture of roofing material, roofing cardboard treated with special bitumen is used, which is then coated with a refractory compound.
When covering the roof with roofing felt, you need to make a reliable truss system and crate with frequent steps. To prevent the roofing material from tearing, it is better to make the sheathing solid using plywood sheets or OSB. This increases the cost of the roof and the power of the truss system, but allows you not to worry about the roof in winter when ice and snow appear.
Types of roofing material and the rules for its installation
Before starting roofing work, the roof surface must be thoroughly cleaned of old flooring. Laying is carried out only in dry weather, otherwise there will be no sealing on a wet surface, rot may form under the roofing material. Today, three types of roofing material are used for roofing:
Traditional
Before laying, the roofing material must be rolled out and left for a day. After cleaning and leveling, mastic of bitumen and filler is applied to the roof with a brush or roller. Laying is carried out using a burner, heating sheets of roofing material and mastic, and then rolling it with a roller. The roofing material is laid in several layers (at least two) parallel to the ridge, starting from the bottom and leaving 20 cm in reserve. This part is then wrapped under the visor. The first layer of roofing material without crumbs. Each next layer is laid with a shift of 20 cm after the previous one has completely cooled down. The top layer should have stone chips.
Self-adhesive
This is a new generation of roofing materials that do not need a gas burner for laying. The self-adhesive lower surface of the roofing material is protected with a special film. Before laying, the film is carefully removed, without waiting for the bottom layer to dry. Roofing material is laid on the roof and pressed tightly against the roof. Lay the coating with an overlap of up to 15 cm, avoiding air bubbles.
Euroruberoid
It differs from the traditional coating in improved physical characteristics - increased strength, ductility, endurance to aging and temperature extremes. The top layer of the material is covered with basalt or granite chips, and the bottom layer is covered with a special anti-adhesive film. It protects the roll from sticking, and when heated serves as an indicator. When melting, the film indicates that the euroroofing material is warm enough for laying.
Roof made of corrugated board
Corrugated board is called profiled steel sheets, covered with layers of galvanized and protective polymers. The profile gives the sheets the necessary transverse stiffness and comes in different heights and configurations. For roofing, profiled sheets of marking NS or H with a profile height of 20 cm or more are used.
Hot-dip galvanizing and coating of profiled metal with paint-and-lacquer polymer compounds protects the metal from corrosion and damage, and a wide range of colors of polymers provides visual appeal.
Of the advantages of corrugated roofing, the following qualities should be highlighted:
- relatively low cost of not only the material itself, but also installation work;
- strength and rigidity of the corrugated roof, resistance to all weather conditions;
- low weight of profiled sheets and, as a result, ease and speed of installation;
- durability of the material, resistance to sunlight, the polymer layer is not covered with chips and cracks from time to time;
- safety and environmental friendliness, refractory properties;
- outward attraction.
Due to the light weight of the material, laying sheets of corrugated board on the roof of the garage makes it easier to design the truss system. Roofing from corrugated board is mounted year-round, sheets can be easily cut at any angle, leaving virtually no waste. It can be attributed to its disadvantages the need to use special equipment during installation and relatively expensive maintenance of the roof.
The laying of sheets of corrugated board is overlapped in two waves, fixing them with special roofing screws with rubber gaskets. Unlike slate, self-tapping screws are always screwed into the crate into the recess of the wave, which is much easier to do. The horizontal overlap of adjacent sheets of corrugated board depends on the angle of inclination of the garage roof, It is:
- with a roof slope of 13-14 ° - at least 200 mm;
- at an inclination of 15 ° -30 ° - 150-200 mm;
- if the roof slope is more than 30°, the overlap can be 100-150 mm.
With a roof slope of less than 12°, all horizontal and vertical overlaps of corrugated sheets must be sealed with silicone sealant. Profiled sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws measuring 4.8x35 mm, and the ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws, the length of which is 80 mm. It is imperative that when installing the roof from corrugated board, steam and waterproofing of the roof, as well as provide for gaps that will ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.
Roof waterproofing
The roof is the structural element of the building, which should protect the contents of the garage from external influences. To guarantee its integrity and durability, many factors are important, among which it is necessary. To fully perform its functions, roof waterproofing must have a number of properties, such as:
- Moisture resistant. The material should retain water and water vapor well, prevent the formation of fungi and mold in the under-roof space.
- Elasticity. The waterproofing layer must be resistant to elastic deformations. Even with minor loads, the lack of elasticity can lead to the destruction of the material.
- Thermal resistance. This property prevents cold air from entering the garage through the roof, it helps to maintain a certain temperature in the building.
- Strength. The waterproofing layer must resist deformation processes and withstand various external loads.
Experts offer two optimal options for waterproofing roofs in garages.
Roof membrane systems
This is a waterproofing material 1-2 mm thick, which consists of several layers hermetically glued together. The length of the sheet reaches 60 m, in width - from 0.9 m. The membrane sheet is resistant to UV rays, is not afraid of temperature changes, the period of its natural aging is less than 50 years. The diffusion properties of polymer membrane waterproofing prevent moisture from accumulating under the canvas and help solve two main problems: do not let moisture in from the outside and prevent steam from accumulating inside the garage.
The membrane sheet is fixed mechanically to the base of the roof. Special equipment using hot air heats up the seams and overlaps the sheets tightly welded. The material on the base of the roof is laid loosely to ensure good ventilation. When insulating the roof, a separating layer of geotextile and basalt insulation is laid as thermal insulation.
For waterproofing garage roofs of small sizes, polymeric liquid mastics are used, which are applied directly to the roof with a special sprayer, brush or roller. Mastic can cover any structure, regardless of the base material and its shape, for example, metal, reinforced concrete or wooden roofs.
Mastic waterproofing perfectly resists the rays of the sun and any weather conditions, including frost. At the same time, the film retains its elasticity, does not deform or melt, is not afraid of vibration and chemicals. After applying the mastic, vulcanization occurs and a rubber-like coating is formed that fills all cracks in hard-to-reach places.
truss system
For a garage, the construction of a shed or gable roof is quite enough. The truss systems of such roofs are made of coniferous wood,.
A shed roof is made without a ridge, struts and racks for buildings with spans of 6-8 m. It is considered the most convenient truss system for garages, outbuildings, etc. Installation is quite simple: a rafter system is constructed with supports, which is fastened from above with a crate located perpendicular rafters. The reliability of the entire roof depends on the strength of the resulting frame.
A gable roof is made when they want to have an attic space or with a large garage area. The frame of such a roof consists of several pairs of rafter legs connected at the top point into a ridge. The lower supports of the rafters are the walls of the garage, on which the Mauerlat is installed. Slings are attached to it with anchors or other devices.
Rafter systems of pitched roofs are divided into layered and hanging. Their frames consist of triangular-shaped elements, which allows not to lose rigidity. In the first case, the structure has several points of rigid fastening with posts resting on an additional main wall or columnar supports. Hanging systems do not have intermediate supports and cover spans of more than 7 m. The only reference point for the rafters is the garage wall. The second end of the rafter is joined in the upper part of the roof with the opposite rafter.
The construction of any garage ends with a roof, which should provide comfortable conditions inside the building. Your task, using the accumulated experience, is to choose the best roof option for your building, to build a solid and stable roof that will protect from rain and wind, retain heat and be impervious to moisture.
Consider wooden truss systems that are suitable for installing a roof for a garage, the walls of which are made of foam concrete, using frame technology, cinder block, brick walls. Wooden rafters are light, but at the same time strong enough to withstand the load of snow and winds. By type, garage truss systems can be divided into shed - the slope is carried out in one direction, as a rule, the front is higher than the reverse side. And gable - that is, a slope in both directions from the middle. It is easier, of course, to install a shed roof, but the view will be ordinary without beauty. Although, here it's an amateur.
We will need boards, a 150x50 edged board for rafters and a 100x25 board, which is also an “inch” for mounting the batten, are ideal.
The angle of inclination of a shed roof for a garage will vary depending on the material with which the roof will be “covered”. For example, for metal tiles this figure is 25-30 degrees, and for slate 35-40. If you make a roof according to a “simple” roofing material or, as they say, cover the roof with roofing paper, then you need a slope of at least 40 degrees and the crate should be solid.
The assembly order is as follows, we make a rise from a board or a bar, we put 150x50 boards along the entire garage at a distance of 50-100 cm.
double garage roof
We need boards 150x50 mm for rafters. It is necessary to determine the angle of inclination of the roof. Much depends on the weather and climate conditions. If there are a lot of winds, then an angle of 15-20 degrees will be optimal. If it is rainy and snowy, then it is worth slightly increasing the angle to 25-30 degrees. So, we have decided on the angle of inclination of the roof. Next, let's start making the rafters. We cut them at the selected angle and fasten them in the ridge. We fix the plates on both sides. Next, we make cuts for stability and put on the upper harness.
The number of rafters for a 5-meter garage must be calculated based on a distance of 600-1200 mm. It all depends on the chosen roofing material and its severity. Next, we cover it with a windshield and begin to nail the crate. If the roof is planned to be covered with roofing felt, the crate must be solid. It can be OSB or plywood sheets.
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To bind to the construction site, you will need the following inventory:
- a skein of thick nylon cord;
- tape measure of the required length;
- several pegs;
- a small sledgehammer.
The easiest option for linking to the terrain is to add a garage to the outbuildings already built earlier. The solution of the problem in this case is reduced to a simple extension of the existing building line in accordance with the selected dimensions of the building.
The base of a one-story brick (cinder block) garage can be a simple rubble-concrete foundation of a tape type, during the preparation of which a trench dug in the ground is filled with broken stone (but). There are two ways to build such a foundation:
- Pieces of stones are laid into the trench in neat rows, each of which is then poured with a liquid cement-sand mortar.
- Reinforcement is laid in the dug trench, and then it is poured with concrete.
Since the foundation must have some elevation above the ground, it will be necessary to make a formwork, the height of which will correspond to the level of pouring the foundation for the garage.
The width of the trench under such a base usually does not exceed 60 cm, but basically it is 10–15 cm wider than the future wall. Its depth is determined by the expected depth of soil freezing in a given area.
When digging a trench, it must be taken into account that the soil should be sampled before reaching dense soil layers, and that the walls of the trench should be even.
This video is about preparing the base for the garage:
On a dried foundation we lay a layer of waterproofing, which is usually used as a simple roofing material. If the garage door is already ready, then they need to be installed and fixed. For these purposes, you can use improvised material, for example, long logs, boards, or something else that fits in length. After the walls are erected, the struts, which play an auxiliary role, can be removed.
The accuracy of the installation of the garage door frame can be measured in the course of work using a plumb line and level. If necessary, its position can be slightly changed by placing pieces of metal plates under the corners of the structure.
Operations for laying a chain of blocks (or bricks) must be carried out according to the standard scheme, according to which the elements of each subsequent row overlap the joints of the previous one. The construction of walls should begin with the construction of corner beacons, between which a thin nylon cord is subsequently stretched. The remaining wall blocks are laid along the line of the cord, after which the beacons are again built up into several rows. We control the correct alignment of walls and corners using the same plumb line and level.
To build a garage floor, you can use a relatively inexpensive and reliable support structure made of metal I-beams with a working size of 100–120 mm. Such beams will allow you to close the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe building with a width of up to 6 m.
After laying the beams, you can proceed to their sheathing. To do this, thick boards (40–50 mm) are laid in dense rows along the lower brand of adjacent beams, which are then covered with a layer of roofing material. On top of the roofing material, we fill up the insulation (usually expanded clay or simple slag is used as a heater), and the level of the backfill should reach the cut line of the upper brand.
At the next stage of work, we apply a layer of cement screed 20–30 cm thick over the insulation, the quality of which largely determines the reliability of the entire roofing.
If the roof is flat, then self-waterproofing of the garage roof is carried out by laying several layers of waterproof roll materials (roofing felt, aquaizol or rubemax) on the prepared screed. In garage construction, the following techniques are most often used:
- stacking rolls by layer-by-layer fusing;
- applying the material with bituminous mastic.
For a gable roof, the same roofing materials are used as for finishing the roof of a house. You can get acquainted with them in more detail in the article devoted to this topic.
On the front and end parts of the roof, you will need to mount small visors that serve to protect the walls of the garage from rainwater flows. You can make similar visors from a 50 mm thick edged board, punched along the edge with another board. They are attached under the upper brand of the beam.
As insulation for walls, you can use standard boards made of foam or mineral wool.
From a metal profile
First of all, the lower part of the frame is made, which must be welded to the "mortgages" concreted in the foundation. If this moment is missed, then you will have to use anchors for fastening.
The next step will be the installation of vertical racks on the long sides of the garage with an interval of 1.5 m. Only after that you can proceed to fix the upper part of the frame.
To give the structure rigidity, it is necessary to weld corners in the spans, which are installed diagonally.
Profiled sheets are used for wall cladding. The same material is used for the roof. If you wish, you can cover the roof with metal tiles.
A metal garage has a significant drawback - it is cold in winter, and warms up like a stove in summer. However, the situation can be improved. Such a room can be insulated in various ways, it is only important to remember that heating will be required to work in such a room in winter.
In the video below, you can learn how to make your own garage doors:
From foam blocks
The foam block does not have a lot of weight, unlike brick. Therefore, it makes no sense to build a capital foundation under the walls from it. There are two options:
- Shallow foundation on a sand cushion.
- Light pile-strip foundation.
Moreover, if the soil at the construction site is not problematic, that is, not swampy and sandy, then there is also no point in spending money on a deep foundation. Therefore, it will be enough to deepen the foundation by 50–60 cm. A sand cushion of 20 cm is poured into the trench. A reinforcing cage should also be built. This is part of the work that is done before the concrete is poured.
If the soil is dense and does not crumble, then there is no point in constructing formwork in a trench. It will be required only above the elevation of the soil up to 30 cm.
As for the width of the foundation, it should be 300 mm wider than the thickness of the foam blocks themselves. This gap will compensate for the pressure of the frozen ground. The entire construction process is expressed in the successive steps outlined below:
- Site marking for future construction.
- Foundation laying.
- Installation of metal gates.
- Waterproofing.
- Construction of walls from foam blocks.
- Installation of a transverse concrete beam-lintel above the gates and windows, if any.
- If the roof is shed, then the walls are erected with a decrease in one direction.
- Organization of ventilation in the garage.
- Production of an armored belt around the entire perimeter.
- Installation of I-beams across the garage. The laying step is 800 mm, and the beam is brought out of the walls on both sides by 200 mm.
- To form the ceiling, grooved boards are laid on the lower edges of the beams.
- Laying waterproofing on a wooden base.
- Installation of roofing material.
For the construction of a garage from foam blocks, it is recommended to use blocks with a density of 600–800 kg / m 3. They belong to the category of structural and thermal insulation and are characterized by increased strength. If you purchase a material with a lower density, then it will be too fragile, and this is undesirable.
Usually foam blocks of such dimensions are used 200 × 300 × 600 mm. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the walls, blocks of 200 × 400 × 600 mm can be used. If it is necessary to increase the thickness of the walls, then masonry with the wide side down, its thickness is 300 or 400 mm.
Beginner masters usually use a cement-sand mortar for laying blocks. Professionals prefer perlite. Using this material, the effect of a "warm seam" is obtained. Perlite is inexpensive in price, however, it prevents the appearance of a cold bridge through the seams. After all, it is these places that are most vulnerable in such a building.
If you didn’t manage to buy perlite, then get a dry mix of “thermoshovs”.
If you managed to make the foundation relatively even, the first row should still be laid on the mortar. This will prevent the appearance of cracks from point loads, and the block, mortar up to 2 cm thick, will “find” its place.
Another feature of working with a foam block is its fragility. Therefore, even if you bought blocks with a high density, lay a reinforcing metal mesh every 2-3 rows. Also, ligation of the sutures is mandatory. The walls will not be monolithic and durable if there is no dressing with the adjacent row or at the corners.
When building a garage of two floors, for laying a reinforced concrete floor panel, fill in an armored belt with a thickness of 200 mm. This will be enough to protect fragile blocks from being crushed, and the whole structure as a whole will provide better strength.
To build a garage from cinder blocks, it is enough to make a foundation, 500 mm deep and up to 400 mm wide. The process of its pouring sequence is the same as for the foam block garage described above. When the concrete is dry, roofing material is necessarily laid, which will serve as a waterproofing. As for the erection of walls, there are no special sacraments here. The principle of operation is the same as bricklaying.
If desired, cinder block walls can be plastered, painted, sheathed with clapboard, insulated, etc. It all depends on financial capabilities and the prevailing climate in your area.
Scheme
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do-it-yourself arrage, like any work done on your own, will bring a lot of trouble, a lot of pleasure and will save a lot. The cost of building a garage, like the cost of any construction, includes the cost of materials, the work of machines and the cost of the work itself, which means that deciding build a garage with your own hands, you at least significantly reduce your costs. And then, a garage with your own hands - isn't this a reason to be proud of yourself? The result may not be exactly what you would like it to be, but it will be relatively cheap and you will get a lot of experience building garages. Yes, and work performed independently will always bring a lot of different emotions, including positive ones!
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Video version of the article
And how to build a garage yourself, and will be discussed in this article. Of course, if you didn’t hold a hammer in your hands, it’s unlikely that the best article will teach you to build a garage on your own, but to provide very, very significant support in this endeavor - as much as you like. In addition, you can always ask us any question and get a comprehensive answer. In the article, we will take a specific garage construction project and follow it. You will learn a number of useful recommendations that will definitely come in handy if you decide to build a garage with your own hands: what you need to take into account during construction, what subtleties and secrets exist in this matter - you will learn all this from this material.
First of all, you will need to decide on the type of garage. The two most common today are metal And stone. When deciding in favor of a particular material, one must be guided by construction nuances, the prospect of operating a future garage, personal preferences and many more considerations.
Choosing garage materials for self-construction
Let's start with the construction of a brick garage. Masonry stones in construction include not only brick, but we will limit ourselves to this word, implying the possibility of using other stone materials: cinder block blocks(cinder blocks), foam concrete(foam blocks) and others.
The desire to build a brick garage is quite justified. It not only looks much more impressive than metal, but it actually is. It is not for nothing that a garage made of bricks is called capital. Of course, the construction of such a structure is not a quick and time-consuming task, but the result is worth it. Here's what you have to do if you decide to build a garage with your own hands.
Stone, brick garage. How to build a garage from foam blocks, foam concrete, bricks, cinder blocks
The first stage of building a garage - a project
The beginning of any construction is a project. It does not have to be a pood-weight roll of drawings, but what you intend to create must first be drawn and described, even if it is on a piece of paper torn from a school notebook.
At the design stage, we first determine the following.
Tasks that is designed to tackle the garage. Will it serve only as a parking place for the car, or is it supposed to make some kind of repairs to this car? Do you need → ? →? Do not be lazy and write down all your wishes on paper (the links tell you how to make a viewing hole in the garage and cellar).
Dimensions garage in plan and height are determined: firstly, based on the size and characteristics of the site on which you plan to place the garage; and secondly, the tasks that you expect him to solve. For example, do you only need a parking space? Great! A garage of 3 x 5.5 m is enough for you (of course, if your car is not a Hummer). When it is also planned to place a workbench in the garage for any work, no matter what the cellar is, of course, the dimensions should be increased.
The second stage - breakdown on the ground
At this stage, what you have sketched on a piece of paper should be transferred to the real area (builders say, "localized"). For this stage, you will need a dozen pegs 40 centimeters long (pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm are convenient); a heavy hammer, and preferably a small sledgehammer; tape measure at least five meters long (longer lengths are welcome); kapron cord thirty - forty meters.
To bind to the terrain of our garage, you need to know at least the point where one of its corners will be located. Well, and, of course, the position of the garage in space relative to this point.
In the article, we assume the most common option, which is the garage is attached to an existing line of garages. In this case, all you need to do to lay out your garage is to continue the line of the walls of the existing buildings and set aside the necessary dimensions, as shown in the picture above.
The third stage - earthworks
As a rule, earthwork during the construction of a garage is carried out manually. But this is if you are building something like a stone cover for your "swallow". And if you plan to put a couple of tubs with pickles in a good cellar, then you cannot do without an excavator. And the viewing hole is a kind of cellar, only a small one.
But back to our foundations. The trench under the monolithic strip foundation of the garage should be at least 40 cm wide. The depth, depending on the depth of soil freezing in your area, is selected from 60 cm to 1.2 m. As a rule, a meter depth is enough for the eyes. Unless your garage is in the permafrost zone, but that's another story.
The bottom of the trench should not be loose, i.e., the soil should be selected up to a layer with natural density. A layer of natural density is, for example, a layer of clay that has been lying for 10,000 years and no one has ever touched it. If the clay was dug out and covered again, then its density is indicated as bulk. The walls are processed with a shovel so that they are as even and vertical as possible.
Fourth stage - foundations
There are a lot of options for foundations. Here we will focus on rubble concrete - quite simple and relatively inexpensive.
Do-it-yourself concrete foundation for a garage is quite simple: a rubble stone is laid in rows in a neatly dug trench, and each row is poured with cement mortar until the trench is filled to the very top.
An important point: the foundation is the foundation - the basis of everything. It depends on its strength how the rest of the structure will behave, how long it will last, whether it will shrink and crack. Therefore, for pouring rubble stones, we take a solution of at least grade 150. It is done as follows: cement "PC" (Portland cement) grade 400 is mixed with sand based on the calculation of two and a half buckets of sand per bucket of cement. Water is poured until the required mobility of the solution is obtained, approximately near the bucket (here, as elsewhere in the article, the capacity of the bucket does not matter; it is important that it be the same for all ingredients). You can learn more about → in another article on the site.
Stage five of the construction of the garage - basement, walls and gates
To install a plinth around the perimeter of the trench, you must install →. It is best if the boards are about 10 cm wide. The formwork must be leveled. If your platform is uneven, then we take its highest place as a basis, add ten centimeters to the level of the base and mark the horizon from it, as shown in the figure.
On the plinth, horizontal waterproofing is arranged from one or two layers of roofing material, laid dry. Waterproofing is necessary so that the walls do not absorb capillary moisture from the ground.
We install garage doors before we start building walls., because as the wall is erected, they will be fixed in the masonry. To increase the strength of the connection with the wall, embedded parts are welded to the door frame in the form of round rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. When laying, these rods are sealed in the seams. According to the height of the gate, it is worth making at least four such mortgages on each side. Before installing the gate, you should →, preferably twice (the link tells how to paint metal).
The gate is installed strictly vertically, which is checked by a level or a plumb line. The vertical is checked by the gate frame on the right and left. The gate moves with a small crowbar, the desired level is fixed with metal plates or flat stones placed at the corners. We fix the exposed gates with wooden braces, as shown in the figure.
After installing the garage gate, we proceed to the → (brickwork is described by reference) of the garage, with a wall width of 200 mm, we lay the cinder block (brick, foam concrete) with ordinary chain masonry, when the next row overlaps the seams of the previous row. We start laying from the corners. Having set the corners, we stretch a thin cord between them and put the rest of the blocks along this cord. Having laid out the row, we again raise the corners and so on. Having adapted a little, the corners can be laid out immediately on two or three blocks.
We check the verticality of the walls with a plumb line, especially paying attention to the verticality of the corners. We check the horizontality of the rows with a level.
For our garage, the ceiling is also a roof, so when installing it, you need to take care of an appropriate slope for normal rainwater runoff. To this end, the end walls of the garage are made of different heights, respectively, the upper edge of the side walls must be made with a slope. The slope is made based on the difference in height: five centimeters per meter. Thus, with a garage length of six meters (for example), the total difference will be 30 cm. In order for the slope to be even, they pull the cord along which they navigate.
For masonry you will need:
Trowel mason "trowel";
pickaxe;
a small sledgehammer "cam" or a large one - five hundred grams - a hammer;
level;
plumb;
as well as thirty meters thick - about a millimeter - kapron thread (masons call it "lace");
to mix the solution you will need a large container, something like a trough; the ideal option is to get a small mortar mixer for a while;
several buckets for supplying mortar, dosing sand, cement, water;
shovel for loading materials.
In addition, you need to take care of the scaffolds. About → , you can find out in the article at the link. For laying walls higher than one and a half meters, you can no longer do without them. Scaffolding can be made from anything: from boards, old door panels mounted on goats, etc., provided that they can easily support the weight of one person plus two or three buckets of mortar, and plus five or six building blocks - that is, the total weight is about one hundred and seventy - two hundred kilograms.
We knead the mortar for laying the walls of the garage at the rate of a bucket of cement grade 400 for four and a half buckets of sand. The solution should not be too liquid, the consistency of thick sour cream is just right. In order for the solution not to delaminate and be more plastic, it will not be superfluous to add half a bucket of lime dough or ordinary clay to it.
