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Why knowledgeable people choose linoleum. How to remove waves on linoleum? Irregularities due to roll deformation

The modern variety of floor coverings involuntarily puts any person making repairs in an apartment or a house in front of the "throes" of choice. Eminent manufacturers, perfectly building their advertising policy, persistently recommend their products, which are really good. But, it happens that for this you will have to part with the amount that was not planned. And for some reason, the good old linoleum is undeservedly relegated to the background, considering it a choice for the poor. In fact, it has a number of advantages that the consumer is most likely not aware of. Perhaps you should be more aware of this popular flooring and find out which linoleum is best for your home.

Historical reference

Linoleum is mistakenly attributed to modern and artificial materials, but its historical roots are hidden in the name. The word linoleum consists of Latin: linum - meaning linen or linen, as well as oleum - oil. Linoleum was patented in 1860 by the Englishman Frederick Walton. Initially, this flooring used a linen or jute woven backing, which was coated with oxidized vegetable oil combined with cork flour. Technologies were constantly improving, manufacturers learned how to apply a pattern to linoleum and at the beginning of the 20th century it was one of the most popular materials.

Due to the high cost of plant raw materials and the development of chemical synthesis, in the 60s of the last century they began to produce synthetic-based floor roll coverings, which were left with the old name - linoleum, although this is a completely different material. In the 90s, they remembered the traditions of the production of natural linoleum, and the volume of its production is constantly increasing, since there is a steady demand for it. Thus, under the name of linoleum, a very wide class of floor coverings, both natural and synthetic, has united.

Types of linoleum

To make it easier to navigate the ocean of proposals and make the right choice, you should learn about the types of existing linoleums and which ones are suitable for your home.

natural linoleum

One of the best choices is natural linoleum. For its production, only natural ingredients are used: linseed oil, wood flour, jute or linen, natural wood resin, limestone. A rich palette of natural dyes, together with modern technologies, make it possible to paint this wonderful coating in any color. Natural linoleum has a number of undeniable advantages:

• High strength. Natural linoleum can withstand pressure up to 16 MPa.
• Linseed oil, which is part of the composition, makes such a coating bactericidal.
• High wear resistance determines a long service life: up to 30-50 years.
• Exclusively natural components determine its environmental friendliness.
• Natural linoleum does not absorb pollution and is easily cleaned from various contaminants with detergents.
• Static electricity does not accumulate on natural linoleum.
• Not afraid of ultraviolet rays, does not fade from the sun.
• Has low flammability.

With such an impressive list of advantages, natural linoleum is still not without drawbacks:

• Natural linoleum has a high price, comparable to a parquet board.
• In rooms where a natural linoleum coating is planned, there should not be high humidity, since the natural base is prone to decay.
• Low elasticity limits the use of natural linoleum in cold rooms and complicates its installation.
• Features of manufacturing technology limit the variety of patterns and ornaments.
• Only the laid natural linoleum coating has a specific smell, which may not be to everyone's liking. However, the smell disappears after a few months.

For all eco-home enthusiasts willing to go to high expense, natural linoleum is a great choice for living spaces. Low moisture resistance limits its use on, in bathrooms and hallways.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) linoleum

PVC linoleum (international designation - PVC) is the most widely used. It can be either without a base, or with various types of bases:

• Fabric base. Both natural jute and synthetic fabrics, such as fiberglass, can be used for it. The upper cover, which has a pattern, is made of PVC. Such linoleum can have an impressive thickness - up to 5 mm.
• A non-woven base made of natural felt or synthetic materials improves thermal insulation properties, but in rooms with high traffic and high humidity, such linoleum should not be used, since it does not like intense loads, and the porous base will perfectly absorb moisture.

• Foamed PVC backing. Such linoleum began to be produced in the 90s of the last century, and this type of substrate is one of the most popular. The main porous PVC layer perceives all loads and "forgives" small irregularities in the base, and the reinforcing fabric maintains the geometric dimensions of the web. PVC foam can be applied chemically and more progressive mechanically, which is better, since such linoleum will not wrinkle under high loads.

Some types of linoleum are also made, which combine several types of the above layers. Linoleum, which has several of them, is called heterogeneous, and one is called homogeneous. The number of layers and their purpose in linoleum for various purposes can vary greatly from each other.

The advantage of homogeneous linoleum is that its pattern is present throughout the entire depth, so when it inevitably wears out, the pattern will not be erased. The thickness of such linoleum can be from 1.5 to 3 millimeters, and it is designed for rooms with high traffic. Its use in apartments and houses is impractical. The main disadvantages of homogeneous linoleum are its high price, as well as the impossibility of applying complex patterns.

PVC linoleum has a set of advantages that explain its widespread use.

• PVC linoleum has a high elasticity, which greatly simplifies its installation.
• A variety of patterns and textures of PVC linoleum will allow you to realize any idea of ​​​​interior design.
• PVC linoleum has a reasonable price.
• Easily cleaned from dirt.
• Linoleum from well-known manufacturers is non-toxic, which must be confirmed by a hygiene certificate.

The disadvantages of PVC linoleum are:

• When exposed to high temperatures, linoleum shrinks.
• Only after laying the PVC linoleum coating has an unpleasant specific smell, which disappears after a few weeks of operation.

Alkyd linoleum

Alkyd, also called glyphthalic, linoleum is always made on a fabric basis, on which modified alkyd or glyphthalic resins are applied using special technology with special fillers that improve the properties of the coating. Pigments and dyes are also introduced, which make linoleum either one-color or multi-color. The advantages of this type of linoleum are:

• In comparison with PVC linoleums, glyphthalic ones have better heat and sound insulation properties.
• Such linoleums are extremely wear-resistant, they can serve 40-50 years.
• Pollution from such a coating is removed more easily than from PVC.

The disadvantages of alkyd linoleums are:

• Low elasticity at temperatures close to zero.
• Alkyd linoleums require skilled installation.
• Insufficient fire safety severely limits their use in residential areas.

Glyptal linoleum is widely used in transport: flooring in carriages, cabins of sea transport, aircraft.

Rubber linoleum (relin)

Such linoleum is made two-layer: the lower one is made of recycled rubber, the upper one is made of synthetic rubber painted in various colors. Between themselves, these layers are connected with bituminous mastic. Such floor coverings have some advantages:

• Excellent water resistance allows you to lay relin in the most “wet” rooms.
• High elasticity and strength.
• Excellent anti-slip properties.
• Long service life.

Rubber linoleums can be used near swimming pools, in garages, workshops, sports rooms and halls, but their use is contraindicated in residential premises, as they emit harmful substances into the surrounding air.

Nitrocellulose ( colloxylin) linoleum

These types of linoleums are a single-layer baseless coating made from nitrocellulose with the addition of various components: gypsum, minium, plasticizers and dyes. Currently, such coatings from this material are not used due to the increased fire hazard.

It is possible that such an abundance of information about the types of linoleums will further complicate the choice. Moreover, most modern linoleums are heterogeneous and can combine several different layers. That is why European manufacturers have developed a special standard EN685, in which linoleums are divided into classes depending on the strength characteristics and scope in certain rooms. Each class is identified by a two-digit numeric code and a corresponding pictogram.

The first digit in the class means:

• 2 - linoleum is intended for residential premises.
• 3 - for office or commercial premises.
• 4 - for industrial premises.

The second digit in the class indicates the degree of load that linoleum can withstand:

Household linoleum

Linoleum, belonging to classes 21-23, is commonly called household. According to EN685 standards, it must have the following characteristics:

• Specific gravity 1.25-2.25 kg / m 2.
• Thickness - from 0.15 to 3 mm.
• Flexibility and elasticity must be such that when wound on a rod with a diameter of 45 mm no cracks should form.
• Sound absorption - not less than 13-18 dB.
• Water absorption should be no more than 1-1.5%.
• Shrinkage during operation - no more than 0.2 mm per 1 meter.

The cost of household linoleum from well-known manufacturers can range from 3 to 10 euros per square meter.

semi-commercial linoleum

Linoleum, belonging to classes 31-34, is called semi-commercial, and it is intended mainly for office and office space. Must have the following characteristics:

• Specific gravity 1.6-2.5 kg / m 2.
• Elasticity and flexibility should be such that when wound on a cylinder with a diameter of 10-40 mm, cracks should not form in linoleum.
• Sound absorption should be at least 12-16 dB.
• Shrinkage during operation - no more than 0.1 mm per 1 meter.
• The service life guaranteed by the manufacturer is at least 7-20 years.

Semi-commercial linoleum is a great solution for modern offices

The cost of semi-commercial linoleum is from 5 to 15 euros per square meter. A small difference in the price of domestic and semi-commercial linoleum makes it expedient to use it for domestic purposes in those areas where there is an increased load on the floor covering: kitchens, hallways and others.

commercial linoleum

If linoleum belongs to classes from 41 to 43, then it is called commercial. Its purpose is in rooms with intensive movement of people and equipment. Such linoleums have a reinforced film layer (up to 0.8 mm), even lower shrinkage (0.02-0.1 mm / m) and a warranty period of operation (from 10 to 25 years).

The relatively high cost of such linoleum (10-40 euros per square meter), combined with excessive technical characteristics for apartments and houses, makes its use in residential premises impractical. Some commercial linoleums may have a special purpose:

• Sports surfaces with softness and elasticity for good contact with sports shoes.
• Coatings that are resistant to chemical reagents and have bactericidal properties, which is very useful in medical institutions.
• Anti-slip coatings near pools and in other areas with high humidity.
• Antistatic coatings.

The thickness of the protective layer of linoleum

Most modern linoleums have a strong protective film of pure PVC on their surface. It is its thickness that should be taken into account when choosing linoleum, depending on the purpose of the room. Manufacturers offer the following gradation:

• A film with a thickness of 0.15 mm is quite suitable for using such linoleum in living rooms and bedrooms.
• A protective layer of 0.20 mm will be optimal for children's rooms.
• 0.25 mm - for kitchens, hallways and corridors.
• 0.30 mm - service and office premises with an average load.
• Protective layer of 0.50 mm or more - for rooms with high and very high loads.

Find out what methods are used for, from our new article.

Linoleum marking

When choosing linoleum, all its technical data must be provided by the seller along with the necessary certificates: conformity and hygienic. Manufacturers of high-quality linoleum always put their logo on the reverse side, as well as all the information that will greatly help the buyer:

• Linoleum class - will help you make the right choice.
• Batch number - if you plan to purchase a large amount of linoleum, then it is desirable that it be from the same batch.
• Date of manufacture.

Also, the manufacturer can apply additional pictograms that indicate the special properties of the coating. Such possible designations are shown in the figure.

Prices for the popular line of linoleums for the home

Linoleum for home

How to choose linoleum correctly?

Now that there is complete clarity with the types of existing linoleums, you can point out a number of important points that will help you make the right choice.

• Linoleum should be purchased only in specialized stores where all storage requirements are met, and there is also a complete set of accompanying documents confirming compliance with standards and safety.

• Depending on the purpose of the room, a class of linoleum is selected and it is better to do this with some margin: one step higher than necessary.
• Particular attention should be paid to the thickness of the linoleum, its strength and the presence of an upper protective layer.
• It is necessary to strive to ensure that the linoleum flooring does not have connecting seams or there are a minimum of them. This is achieved by careful measurement of the premises and the choice of rolls of the desired width.
• The modern variety of colors, textures, patterns of linoleum allows you to make any choice, but at the same time, you must take into account the purpose of the room, pleasant colors for a comfortable stay in it and the preferences of all household members.
• In rooms with possible severe pollution, it is better to use glossy linoleum.
• When buying, you must carefully examine the entire surface of the linoleum and make sure that there is no damage.
• Poor base preparation and illiterate can negate all the advantages of this coating.

Video: How to choose the right linoleum for your home?

The article analyzes the ways of laying linoleum with practical advice. You will learn about the most popular misconceptions and mistakes regarding the flooring process, about the differences in the style of linoleum "dry" and adhesive method. The price table will give information on the availability of different types of glue.

Linoleum is the undisputed leader in flooring over the past forty years. The floors of apartments and country houses, corridors of hospitals and classrooms of schools are lined with this material. It is believed that anyone can lay linoleum on their own, since there is nothing complicated in this. Whether this is so, we will analyze in our article.

Stereotype number 1. Linoleum can be laid anywhere and everywhere

PVC sheet material - linoleum, relin, marmoleum - has become a "lifesaver", which they try to use in all cases.

Reality. The material is demanding on the quality of the base. An unforgivable mistake would be laying it on a contaminated surface or an unreliable base that exfoliates or crumbles. The material will respond to such negligence with coating defects within a year.

How to be? If the base is defective, for example, a floor with old paint, a “dusty” or poor-quality screed, and there is no way to level it, it is better to abandon linoleum in favor of laminate. Laminated fiberboard panels themselves serve as a leveling layer and "swallow" minor defects in the base.

Stereotype number 2. Laying linoleum is fast

The people even have a sort of "term" for this process: "throw linoleum." Mentally, the procedure is simple - roll out, cut and press with a plinth.

Reality.“Quick laying” and urgent installation of the skirting board are the culprits of 80% of cases of bubbles, waves and wrinkles on the floor.

How to be? If you are dealing with a hasty master who is trying to sell you his work, it is unlikely that you will learn from him that the linoleum should be aged. This means that after laying and trimming it to size, you need to withstand 5-7 days. During this time, PVC will take its stable shape, react to humidity and temperature changes. Only after this, the material will not change its linear dimensions and it can be fixed with a plinth and furniture can be placed.

Stereotype #3: “Dry” laying without glue is a significant time and money saver

It is logical that gluing the material has to spend time and effort. But is it really that important?

Reality. The process of applying and dispersing glue is quite simple and you can master it by reading the instructions. After a few square meters, you will find that it is not so difficult and difficult. The main advantage of adhesive flooring is that you can not withstand linoleum so that it rests.

How to be? If you have the opportunity to stick linoleum - stick it! Laying through glue strengthens the coating material and makes the whole cake much more resistant to mechanical damage. The most difficult thing here will be the rolling process - you will need a special device in the form of a board wrapped in rags.

Stereotype No. 4. Linoleum laid without glue is easy to replace

We often hear: “I’ll get tired and take it off, throw it away, put a new one on.”

Reality. The floor is repaired every 10-15 years, and practice has shown that the replacement of the coating has nothing to do with the mood or momentary desire of the owner. The result is a situation where the customer all these years has an inferior coating, which, moreover, wears out faster.

What to do? See Stereotype No. 3. In fact, after the declared service life of the adhesive (15-20 years), it is not so difficult to remove the glued linoleum. Another thing - you have to clean the base for new material. In the arsenal of masters there are special machines that clean off linoleum - you can resort to their services.

Stereotype number 5. Linoleum can be laid on a cement-sand screed

Reality. Yes, you can, only with a leveling mixture - it does not leave pores. And if you apply glue, it will hold well. But from a practical point of view, this is justified only if heating is provided by the "warm floor" system. In other cases, the screed is unpredictable. Since concrete and mortar do not hold heat well, the floor will cool uncontrollably, requiring additional carpeting.

What to do? Ideally - to create an additional layer of base - to fix sheets of plywood or OSB. These are tangible costs, but in the long run they pay off. The floor will not be cold, even if it is an outdoor vestibule.

At this stage, a mistake is often made. On top of the screed, fiberboard 3-4 mm thick is sometimes “dry” laid in order to make the surface smooth and even. And then glue the linoleum to the fiberboard. This is the most undesirable combination of actions, because with changes in humidity, which will undoubtedly follow in the off-season, fiberboard will deform along with linoleum.

How to inexpensively prepare the basis for linoleum

As you know, the cheapest layer material for leveling is fiberboard. Price for 1 sq. m - from 1.5 to 2 y. e. It can be effectively applied in two ways. Each of them provides for the preparatory stages - dedusting, priming the base with glue and filling the seams with silicone sealant.

Method 1. By screed

Progress:

1. Stick the sheets on the screed. Withstand 12 hours.
2. Stick linoleum on sheets. Withstand 12 hours.

Thus, you will not only level, but also insulate the floor. For mounting fiberboard to the floor, ordinary building glue is suitable. It is also suitable for flooring, but there are special adhesives for these works. Consumption - about 0.5 kg per 1 sq. m with a thickness of 1 mm in one layer.

Method 2. On a wooden base

If the base has small defects - pits, shells, chips - you can save energy and use fiberboard as a wooden screed.

Progress:

1. Remove bumps and steps from the old solid base. Fill gaps with sealant.
2. Cut the sheets with a smooth part up the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room with a gap of 5 mm. Spread out and leave for 12-24 hours.
3. Apply glue liberally to each sheet separately and lay in the design position. Then, from the center of the sheet, nail small ("shoe") nails 1x10, gradually pressing, fixing the sheet and dispersing excess glue. After laying, withstand 12 hours.
4. Fill the seams with sealant.
5. Cut the linoleum and stick it according to the instructions from the video.

Video - how to stick linoleum

Both methods are suitable not only for any type of PVC coating, but also for piece materials - laminate, parquet board, slab marmoleum, etc.

Table. Prices for construction adhesive for linoleum

Name	Manufacturer	Release form	Unit price, c.u. e.	Price 1 kg, c.u. e.
Homakoll 248	Russia	Bucket 10 kg	60	6
		Bucket 14 kg	70	5
Kiilto UKI	Finland	Bucket 3 kg	21	7
Ceresit Thomsit K 112 (conductive)	Germany	Bucket 12 kg	90	7,5
KS	Russia	Bucket 18 kg	130	7,2
"Hercules"	Russia	Bucket 7 kg	60	8,7
Kiilto PLUS Adhesive for linoleum and carpet	Finland	Bucket 15 kg	75	5
		Bucket18 kg	85	4,7
PUFAS Bodenkleber 525	Germany	Bucket 7 kg	21	3

If we talk about the price of linoleum itself, then its spread is great. The price always depends on two parameters - quality and volume of the order. For example, IVC Greenline Berlin 506 linoleum 4 mm thick on a felt base retails for 12 USD. e. per 1 sq. m. If you decide to purchase this linoleum in bulk - from 100 sq. m - it will cost you about 10 y. e. per 1 sq. m. Savings on flooring - almost 20%. You can also save on other materials by purchasing them in bulk. This became possible thanks to the market economy and the competition of suppliers.

The two pillars on which all the problems of home repair “hold” are the desire for unhealthy savings and philistine delusions. Remember that timely consultation with a professional will save your budget and nerves, and whether it is worth saving once again is up to you.

For a long time, Soviet and then Russian consumers did not even think about the benefits or harms of linoleum. But modern society is slowly starting to think not only about convenience and material gain, but also about its own health and safety.

On the one hand, it is. The critics are right. Linoleum is really not just harmful, but dangerous to health. But not all. But only low-quality cheap, which is most often either waste material, or simply not adapted for use in domestic premises.
Therefore, when choosing linoleum for your home, you should pay close attention to safety certificates, the chemical composition and price of linoleum.

You probably understand that a coating made from high-quality environmentally friendly materials will not be cheap. Therefore, the low price of the finishing coating is a priori an alarm signal.

As for the chemical composition, the dangerous chemical elements of linoleum emit a sharp unpleasant odor, which should not only alert you, but also warn you against buying. By itself, such linoleum already releases carcinogens. And when heated (for example, when exposed to central heating or the sun), it generally begins to produce highly toxic vapors that poison the human body.

Why do many people still choose linoleum as the base flooring for many rooms? Yes, because this material has high performance, durability and wear resistance. If you also decide to purchase linoleum for your home, be sure to make sure it is safe before buying. To do this, you need to ask the seller for security certificates. Any self-respecting seller should have such documents. Also, the quality guarantor is the GOST badge or the manufacturer's seal on the back of the product. However, if there is no such sign, linoleum is not necessarily a fake. Perhaps its manufacturing technology simply did not allow the stamp to be placed on the substrate.

In addition to the poorest quality linoleum, unsuitable adhesives can cause harm to human health. After all, choosing glue, you also take care of your health. Therefore, saving on the adhesive composition is by no means impossible. After all, a cheap fake can also release toxic substances that will gradually poison the human body.

And if you already have linoleum at home, and its age is already quite solid, then it is quite easy to determine whether it is poisonous or not. Carcinogenic substances that constantly emit low-quality linoleum leave their mark on the floor surface in the form of yellow spots. If there are any in your home, you should seriously consider replacing the flooring.

The debate about whether linoleum is harmful to human health and the environment does not subside. Let's try to understand this difficult issue.

Varieties of linoleums

Let's start with the fact that linoleums are a large group of floor materials. Different types differ in the chemical composition of individual components, the number of layers, and the purpose. So, the varieties of linoleums:

• Domestic;
• semi-commercial;
• Commercial.

The presented types are designed for service in different conditions, respectively, have characteristics adapted for operation:

• Household is intended for laying in residential premises - in houses and apartments. Harm from linoleum should be absent;
• Semi-commercial has a higher wear resistance than household. It is intended for service in small commercial premises with medium traffic - in offices, in offices;
• Commercial designed for use in areas with high traffic - in the corridors of public buildings, in reception areas, in conference rooms, in classrooms, etc.

Another criterion for dividing into groups is the composition:

• Synthetic linoleums;
• Natural flooring.

The composition of natural linoleum includes:

1. Linseed oil;
2. wood flour;
3. cork bark;
4. Resins of trees, more often conifers;
5. Jute fabric and other natural ingredients.

Natural linoleum is not harmful to health, its components do not emit hazardous substances and fumes. Experts and users note that the quality of natural material is much superior to artificial turf. However, not every family can afford to cover the floor with cork linoleum - the material costs like a good parquet.

Artificial linoleum canvases are much cheaper than natural ones, therefore they are widely used in mass construction.

Attention to classification

To minimize the harm to health of linoleum, when choosing a material, you should pay attention to the class designation:

• Class 21, 22, 23 - completely safe material without harmful components. It must be used in living quarters, in bedrooms and children's rooms;
• Class 31, 32, 33, 34 - linoleum for offices, premises for public stay of a periodic nature (semi-commercial);
• Class 41, 42, 43 - coating, acceptable only for industrial premises. This material can emit toxic fumes under certain conditions, so its use in administrative and residential buildings is excluded.

Composition of synthetic linoleum

Suppose, with a household coating of classes 21-23, it is clear that the material is harmless, but it is not cheap either. Is semi-commercial linoleum harmful? What will happen if you lay it in an apartment as a less expensive finishing material?
To determine the essence of the problem, consider the composition of a standard PVC product in layers:

1. Polyacrylic or polyurethane protective layer;
2. Protective PVC layer up to 0.8 mm thick;
3. Drawing;
4. Foamed PVC;
5. Fiberglass;
6. Backing - foamed PVC, felt or jute;
7. The bottom layer is protective.

Is PVC linoleum harmful or not? Polyvinyl chloride itself is safe, because many of the objects around us are made of this material. However, the layer is placed under a protective layer of polyacrylic or polyurethane. If the integrity of the layer is violated and at the same time heated, PVC is able to evaporate, volatilize in small quantities. However, this is rather a matter of comfort and the danger from the smell is highly questionable.

The most harmful linoleums

In addition to natural and PVC linoleum coatings, budget materials are sometimes found in stores:

• Alkyd with polyester resins. These components, when evaporated, cause diseases of the eyes, skin, and central nervous system.
• Rubber synthetic rubber is also dangerous when releasing substances - vapors provoke respiratory diseases and allergic reactions.
• Nitrocellulose is still a dangerous thing.

Until recently, linoleums on these components were used everywhere due to their low cost. How harmful linoleum is, we can judge even by the fact that it was banned for use in public places. And yet, to this day, this is found in construction supermarkets and buyers prefer it because of the low price, not knowing about the other side of the coin.

What is to be feared?

The main danger is fraught with plasticizers and stabilizers, which are part of the adhesive layers. If you ask the question: can linoleum emit harmful substances, then these components will be the answer. They are released when the layers are abraded and heated by sunlight or warm floors. In cheap coatings, manufacturers often use low-quality raw materials. To eliminate the risk of acquiring this, you should ask the seller for safety certificates.

globally

The main problem today is the production and disposal of linoleum. For these reasons, artificial turf is banned in Europe to save the environment. In the manufacture of the main danger are plasticizers and polymers, evaporating heavy vapors into the air.

Recycling is not easier - burning old material is officially prohibited. When burning, it emits black acrid fumes, which are dangerous for both humans and the environment. Under natural conditions, the canvas is processed for more than one hundred years. So kilometers of old linoleum lie in landfills and exude harmful substances during decomposition and solar heating. This is really a problem of our state, where the use of linoleum is not thought through to the end.

What is more harmful laminate or linoleum

If we compare the popular and affordable linoleum with laminate, we get the following:

• Safety. Laminate is a material based on fiberboard, but polyester toxic resins are also included. The only way to protect yourself from their harmful effects is to purchase certified products from responsible manufacturers.
• Thermal insulation. Linoleum retains heat well, while its safety is guaranteed only at room temperature. Laminate should be laid on warm floors, which does not soar with harmful substances even after abrasion of the upper protective layers.

If you choose between linoleum and laminate, you need to take into account other points: wear resistance, installation, cost, the specifics of the room. Therefore, it is difficult to accurately determine the winner in this case.

Fire safety will be a key feature: linoleum, as they said, emits toxic gases, and laminate does not support combustion, does not smoke. Let's give him the lead.

Summarize

Linoleum in our houses and apartments has a place to be, but the choice of floor material should be approached consciously:

• You should not buy very cheap canvases;
• You should always ask for certificates for products;
• Know the safety classes of linoleum;
• Do not lay material in children's and bedrooms, as well as in rooms where there is often sun.

Under proper operating conditions, the coating will last more than 10 years without harm to the health of others.

About all the advantages and disadvantages of putting a new linoleum on the old one, they still argue. For this type of flooring, there are contraindications, in the presence of which this type of laying will not allow you to get a high quality result. Also, flooring involves many nuances that must be taken into account.

Advantages and disadvantages

To begin with, a few words should be said directly about the linoleum coating. It is the cheapest type among all existing ones, however, this does not mean at all that it looks cheap and does not serve well.

On the contrary, linoleum does not require special care. It does not need to be polished or cleaned too thoroughly, since dirt practically does not stick to it, and therefore all care comes down to ordinary wiping with a damp cloth and timely repair of bumps and damage.

The old coating does not always turn out to be old in fact. So, in some cases, it simply may not fit the atmosphere of the room, not be combined with it in color or style. In this case, the most logical would be to lay the new linoleum on top of the old one.

This method has many advantages:

• Laying a new coating on top of the old one saves a lot of time that would have been spent on dismantling the old coating, surface preparation and other preparatory procedures.
• Due to the fact that it is not necessary to dismantle and install an insulating coating, significant cost savings are achieved.
• If you lay a new layer on the old one without dismantling it, this will help to avoid the formation of debris and dirt during work (not quite, of course, but their number will be much less than with a complete re-laying of linoleum).
• Since the old canvas will serve as a kind of bedding, in this way it will be possible to achieve a high level of noise and heat insulation.
• Due to the double layer of linoleum, the floor will become softer, concealing the sound of steps.

Despite all these advantages, the method also has a number of disadvantages:

• The possibility of early damage to the canvas with insufficient preparation of the old coating, which serves as the basis. There is a possibility that the new floor will go in waves, creases will form on it.
• There are also risks of mold and fungus development if the builder “did not finish it” during installation. The fungus from the substrate will easily spread to a new layer of linoleum, and this is fraught with health problems in the future. Some types of fungus can contribute to the development of asthma and other respiratory problems.
• With the formation of creases and holes, it will be much harder to repair the canvas than if it were laid on a concrete base.

Thus, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons before deciding to install a new layer of linoleum on top of the old one, and only then start planning such an important decision.

In what cases can you put?

Laying new linoleum on top of the old one seems like an easy way out, however, in reality, everything is not at all simple.

There are indications that it is possible to put linoleum on top of an existing one. Ignoring them will quickly damage the new coating, so a complete re-laying will be a more economical option:

• Existing flooring deserves careful attention. Pay attention not so much to its beauty, but to its current state. Cracks in the layer that do not form a relief or a height difference of no more than 1.5 mm can be ignored and not considered as a stop signal for the specified method of installing new linoleum.
• Pay attention to how the canvas is fixed. If it fits snugly to the floor and, so to speak, is glued tightly, there are no contraindications. Examine the floor very carefully, so you can see the existing voids and quickly eliminate them.
• If your linoleum has antiseptic impregnation, then you are very lucky. Most likely, you will not find fungus or other vegetation here.

If you cannot boast of having such an impregnation, it is best to pay close attention to the presence of anomalies that even remotely resemble a fungus. If you did not find anything, then the canvas is suitable for use as a substrate.

• The evenness of the floor also plays a significant role. It happens that the old linoleum was laid directly on the wavy floor, and as a result it was torn and cracked. If the floor does not have any drops and can be called even, then laying a new layer on top of the previous one is possible.
• The service life of the previous layer is also important. If it has been laid relatively recently, there is no reason to refuse to use it as a substrate. On the contrary, a complete dismantling would be a stupid decision, since, in the long run, it will be more expensive and energy-intensive.
• It plays a role and the correspondence of the old coating by type and the new one. Linoleum is divided into the following varieties: household, semi-commercial, commercial and special. They differ in the degree of wear resistance. Ideally, when the new linoleum belongs to the same type as the already laid one (for example, it is good to lay household on household, commercial on commercial, etc.).

In general, there are quite a few indications for approving the laying of linoleum over an existing coating.

It is extremely important that your option fully meets these requirements, otherwise the situation may not play out in your favor, and the resulting floor will not produce the desired effect.

Why can't you do styling?

There may be several options:

• First of all, you can not lay a new layer on the old linoleum if it is not firmly fixed to the base. An indicator can be voids, swellings and so-called waves. If the voids are small, you can try to eliminate them with improvised means using cold welding, however, if the entire linoleum sheet, roughly speaking, is attached only to baseboards, it is better to completely dismantle and make new floors properly.
• Regardless of what type of linoleum is laid, its service life should not expire. For example, often the question of installing one coating on another arises before the owners of floors left over from Soviet times. It is clear that it will be very difficult to tear off a tightly glued linoleum coating, however, this must be done if its service life has already passed the fifteen-year milestone.
• Laying such an overlap on an uneven floor is also not the best idea. It will repeat with accuracy not only all bends, but also every damage and very soon lose its presentable appearance.
• An important contraindication is the presence of fungus or mold.

• An untidy, dusty coating is not suitable for laying a new floor over it. The fact is that dust pollution affects human health in the same way as mold and fungus, not to mention the fact that dust mites often start up in them, which are no less dangerous.
• A contraindication for installation is a linoleum coating assembled from several tiles or strips. The fact is that over time, the existing joints will still part, forming dents in the substrate, which, in turn, will cause damage to the upper canvas.

• It is not recommended to lay on top of existing felt-backed linoleum, as it will cause problems with gluing it. You can’t put such a model on an ordinary sealant or double-sided tape, you will definitely need to purchase expensive materials, so it’s cheaper and better to just completely re-lay the floors.
• The most obvious contraindication is the prohibition on such an installation, dictated by the manufacturer of the model you have chosen. For example, Tarkett linoleums are often not suitable for such installation; they can only be laid on a concrete or plywood main floor.

It will definitely not work to unequivocally answer the question of how best to lay linoleum - on the old coating or on the vacated floor. Both methods have their advantages, however, it would still be more logical and correct to choose dismantling.

How to remove the old coating?

If you have analyzed the existing situation in your house and come to the conclusion that the floor does not meet the necessary requirements or fits most of the cons parameters, you may have a logical question about removing the old linoleum.

In this case, skill and patience will be required, as well as following the instructions below:

• First you need to completely free the room from any items standing on the floor. Remove all furniture, remove baseboards.
• Vacuum and clean your pores. It is easier to dismantle a clean floor covering, as it lends itself better to softening.
• On the old canvas at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, you need to make cuts from wall to wall. The strips should run parallel to each other.
• Dilute the soap solution at the rate of 100 ml of dishwashing detergent per liter of warm water.

• Start wetting the linoleum along the cut strips, gradually peeling it off. First, the top layer will come off, then you need to separate the felt backing. It may require more abundant wetting.
• Separate the linoleum in strips, gradually moving from the far corner to the door. It should be noted that the solution will not only facilitate the peeling procedure, but also prevent dust from entering the air.
• After the main part of the linoleum is dismantled, proceed to peel off the felt residues. To do this, moisten them well with a solution of dishwashing detergent and let dry completely. Scrape off the dried felt with a spatula. Vacuum the cloth and wipe with a damp cloth. Thus, the old canvas will be completely dismantled.

Removed linoleum is best placed in garbage bags directly in the room in which it was dismantled. This will prevent the spread of dust and dirt throughout the apartment, as well as facilitate the task of collecting garbage.

Please note that it is best to work with gloves and a respirator. This is especially true for the dismantling of a truly old coating, which is more than 15 years old.

Such preventive measures will prepare you for the fact that under any of the canvases there will be mold. So, you won't have to touch it with your bare hands, and you won't breathe in spores.

Please note that while vacuuming, you will most likely need to change the dust bags more than once. The best option is to use disposable ones, since dust particles can settle in a fabric bag, thereby ruining it. Paper bags are much better.

Also, it is best to choose a metal one as a nozzle, it will polish the floor at the same time as collecting dust.

What can be properly glued?

To glue a new linoleum coating on top of the old one, you will need to use special tools that are suitable specifically for this purpose. The fact is that ordinary glue will not work here, because the surface of linoleum is quite smooth, and adhesion will be minimal. Special absorbent compositions should be chosen that allow working with non-absorbent surfaces.

You can glue a new layer of linoleum on the old one with double-sided tape, however, this method is the exception rather than the rule. Please note that the entire canvas cannot be glued to the adhesive tape. They can only fix loose corners, small voids, etc. If possible, try to coat the substrate well with glue to avoid the formation of such gaps. Thus, tape is used only in extreme situations.

As an alternative to a special mortar that works with non-absorbent surfaces, it is recommended to use a rubber- or synthetic-based mastic. It, although it has slightly worse characteristics, can also provide decent adhesion of two linoleum layers, thereby making the installation of one sheet on top of another more accessible. You can buy mastic in any major building supply store, unlike special adhesives that can not even be found in every major city.

Please note that any of the adhesives require a long time to dry.

The difference is that the adhesive for non-absorbent surfaces "seizes" faster than the mastic. For optimal gluing of linoleum with mastic, you need to place the canvas under a press for 24-48 hours until completely dry, so that no waves form in the future where the canvas could move away from the base.

Hot and cold welding methods are used for gluing joints. If the first option is carried out mainly by professionals, as it requires special equipment and skills, then the second is quite possible at home. Welding is sold in hardware stores in tubes. For the home, welding compositions of types A and C are optimal.

Nuances when laying

During the installation of a new linoleum sheet on top of the old one, it is worth taking into account several important nuances:

• Speaking of pruning, you should pay attention to the following point, the seams should be perfectly even and fit as tightly as possible to each other. No matter how good welding is used, even it cannot completely smooth out crooked seams.
• Type A welding is suitable for small gaps in the seams, which are less than 1 mm, while cold welding type C is more suitable for large seams (up to 4 mm).
• For installation over existing linoleum, a solid canvas is more suitable, however, this issue is not fundamental. It is much more important that the source itself consists of one single layer and does not have seams and joints over the entire laying area.

• For flooring over existing linoleum, it is better to choose the most rigid samples. This is due to the fact that the final result is very soft, easily prone to bursting. Rigid linoleum is more wear-resistant; dents from cabinet furniture or other heavy pieces of furniture do not appear on it longer.
• About the existing small waves, you should not immediately abandon the installation of the canvas in this way. Sometimes, to eliminate such irregularities, it is enough to iron the linoleum through a soft cloth at the minimum degree of heating of the iron, and the waves will disappear as if by magic.

Carefully read the label of the purchased linoleum. As mentioned above, some samples are simply not suitable for installation on top of the old flooring, and it will definitely have to be completely cleaned to a drip base.

Examples and variants

Below is a photo gallery of images with the interiors of rooms in which linoleum was laid without dismantling the old panel.

In public institutions, this method of laying is often used, when the new linoleum is simply applied to the old one. This mainly concerns schools, hospitals and other budgetary institutions. This is done in order to save money, but, unfortunately, the result obtained is not always pleasing with a long presentable appearance.