Plastering the basement of the house with cement mortar. Decorative finish of the plinth with plaster. Mortar for plaster - do it yourself

If the above-ground part of the foundation is not protected from mechanical and atmospheric influences, it will gradually collapse. The formation of cracks and washing out of the masonry mortar from the seams and joints will lead not only to the weakening of the structure, but also to the appearance of dampness in the house, worsening the microclimate in it.

Plastering the foundation with your own hands is the most effective and inexpensive way to avoid this, while at the same time giving the base a decorative look and ennobling the facade.

Before talking about how to plaster the foundation of a house, you need to understand how to do it, what composition to use. Here it must be borne in mind that the base carries a huge load. And the point is not that a building stands on it and presses with its weight - the foundation itself is responsible for this, and not its decoration.

In this case, load means the aggressive effect of the atmosphere - precipitation, temperature changes, sunlight, etc. As well as mechanical effects, which cannot be avoided due to the location of the structure.

Based on this, we can conclude that the plaster must be durable, resistant to moisture and other harmful environmental factors. The answer to the question of how to plaster the foundation is unambiguous: cement-based compositions. Only they have the listed characteristics.

Note. Silicate and silicone compounds also have excellent protective properties and strength characteristics. But their price is very high compared to cement, which entails high costs for finishing.

Finished plinth plasters

Manufacturers of dry building mixes offer a lot of ready-made compositions for finishing plinths. In addition to sand and cement, they include various additives: plasticizing, waterproofing, increasing the frost resistance of plaster, etc.

Among the most popular are the following:

  • Volma-Sokol. Water- and crack-resistant high-strength plaster based on Portland cement, reinforced with fibers.

  • Eunice Silin ground. Water-repellent, frost-resistant, weather-resistant cement mixture.

  • Sokelputz Knauf. High-quality socle plaster with high adhesive properties. Waterproof, frost resistant.

In addition to the main leveling, there are also cement plasters, with which the plinth can be given a decorative look. They may have different colors and textures.

Decorative compositions are applied after the base layer has completely dried.

Homemade basement plaster

The most affordable and budgetary way to finish the foundation is to prepare a mortar and plaster it with your own hands. In order for the coating to turn out to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to strictly observe the proportions of cement and sand and add water-repellent additives to the composition.

Advice. As such an additive, you can use PVA construction glue, which is added to water for mixing. It gives the solution plasticity and improves its adhesion. A more modern tool is a dispersion of the synthetic polymer Latex Profi, which is perfectly compatible with cement.

Instructions for the preparation of plaster mortar:

  • Sift dry quarry sand through a metal mesh with a fine mesh to get rid of dirt, plant residues and large fractions;
  • Pour it into a mixing container or into a concrete mixer;
  • Add cement. If it is brand M500, then the ratio should be 1:4 (for 1 part of cement 4 parts of sand), and if M400, then 1:3;
  • Thoroughly mix the dry ingredients so that the mixture acquires a uniform color without streaks and stains of pure cement;

  • Before preparing a mortar for foundation plaster, dilute waterproofing additives in clean water;
  • Add water, constantly stirring the solution and achieving the desired density. Its quantity depends on the type of work: for the first priming layer, the solution must be liquid, and for the main covering layer, it must be plastic, not fluid.

Note. It is necessary to prepare the solution after all the preparatory work for cleaning the foundation has been completed.

Stages of plaster

Before plastering the foundation of the house, you need to examine it for cracks, crumbling areas, deformation protrusions and other defects.

Preparatory work

Preparation of the foundation for plastering consists in removing poorly adhering materials from its surface. For example, if it is made of bricks or blocks, the seams should be cleaned of destroyed mortar. If it is a concrete tape with cracks, then they are embroidered in width and depth until strong sections are reached.

You also need to knock down all the protrusions so that you do not have to make a leveling layer that is too thick.

The final stage of preparation before plastering the foundation is its primer (see What is a primer for: technological nuances of finishing work). To do this, it is advisable to purchase a special composition suitable for your foundation.

Main works

Now you can talk in detail about how to properly plaster the foundation. Compliance with this technology will allow you to get a durable and even coating, on which you can later apply a decorative composition or stick tiles, natural stone, and other facing materials.

So:

  • Moisten all masonry joints, cracks and potholes with water and seal them with mortar, roughly leveling the surface;
  • Fasten a reinforcing mesh or a chain-link with small cells on the plinth. To do this, you can use special staples or dowels with a wide hat;

  • Using a level, draw a straight line along the foundation, stepping back from the most protruding part by 2-4 cm, install vertical long pegs along it;
  • Fill the gaps between the pegs and the base with mortar, constantly checking the vertical with a level. Let the resulting tubercles dry well - you will get beacons, along which it will be convenient to level the plaster;

  • After removing the pegs, moisten the entire surface with water from a spray bottle or spray with a broom, then apply a liquid primer cement mortar to it;
  • When the primer sets, you can start leveling: a thick layer of plastic working mortar is thrown onto the foundation with a trowel, which is leveled by the rule along the beacons;

  • Since it is necessary to plaster the foundation of the house so that it looks aesthetically pleasing, the finished surface should be rubbed. This is done after the plaster has begun to set, but while it is still wet. To do this, use a wooden grater, on which you can install the grid;
  • Immediately after grouting, if desired, you can “embroider” the surface under a stone or under a brick, drawing grooves on it.

If you want to clad the plinth with tiles or stone, then you need to wait for the plaster to dry completely, which will take about two weeks.

Advice. To ensure that the coating dries evenly and does not crack, cover it with plastic wrap and protect it from direct sunlight.

Conclusion

You can learn more about the process of plastering the foundation by watching the video in this article. In principle, this is not a difficult matter, minor flaws are quite acceptable, so even an amateur can handle it. The main thing is to observe the proportions in the manufacture of the solution and the technology of its application.

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Plinth plastering as a way to decorate and protect

Plastering the basement helps to quickly and inexpensively equip the foundation. Consider materials for plastering, methods of application and rules for performing work.

What should be the plaster for the basement

Plaster is an exterior finish that protects the foundation from atmospheric and mechanical influences. The durability of the coating depends on the composition of the material and the skill of the master.

The plastered plinth must meet several requirements:

Photo Description

moisture resistance

The foundation, in comparison with the facades of the walls, is 60% more exposed to moisture: snow, melt water, rain.

The coating must be immune to them and serve as a barrier to the penetration of water to the base of the structure.


Frost resistance

The composition of the plaster, with repeated thawing and freezing, should not change its original properties and remain in perfect condition.


Strength

The main function of the coating is to protect the foundation from mechanical influences.

Accordingly, the finish is made resistant to shock and destructive climatic influences.


Resistance to microorganisms

Immunity to attack by bioorganisms, fungi and bacteria.


UV resistance

To the aggression of UV rays, corrosion, chemicals.

The choice of materials for finishing the plinth

Gypsum mixtures are excluded - they are fragile and are afraid of moisture. Polymer plasters meet the requirements, but are not available to everyone due to the high price. More often they are used for thin-layer decoration.

For plastering the foundation, you need to take cement compositions. They are affordable, inexpensive, last a long time and protect the base as much as possible.

On sale there are domestic and imported varieties of cement plaster intended for the basement. In addition to cement and sand fractions, they contain plasticizers, special additives that improve the quality of the coating.

The most popular brands are:

  • Sokelputz Knauf;
  • Ilmax 6820;
  • Volma-base;
  • Eunice Seelin.

Some mixtures have a universal application: they protect and decorate at the same time. They include mineral / quartz chips. These mineral additives increase strength and make the plinth surface beautiful.

Surface decoration

The gray monotony of concrete will please few people with its appearance, so different design methods are used.

  1. A two-layer coating is used: the lower layer is cement, the upper one is decorative from polymer mixtures.
  2. Acrylic decorative plasters are sold for the plinth. For example, using Ticiana, you can get the look of rough granite. In terms of reliability and quality, Laex is the leader, has a wide range of colors and creates various textures (Classic, Aurora, Velor, Marble, etc.)

  1. There are options for applying a relief pattern. With special rollers, brushes, stencils, a certain pattern / relief is attached, the work is done on raw cement.
  2. You can change the color by adding a pigment of the desired color to the solution or paint the finished surface.
  3. Mosaic stucco is made from a commercial mix of dyed grit and acrylic resin. Refers to the most resistant coatings.

Types of base mixtures

Plastering with various materials helps to obtain an interesting and high-quality surface:

Type of mixture Characteristics Consumption (kg/sq. m.)
Acrylic is made on the basis of acrylic resin. It has good elasticity, eliminates the possibility of cracking.

Resistant to mechanical stress, does not fade in the sun.

There is no steam capacity.

1,5–4,0
Mineral, made on the basis of white cement. Deprived of elastic properties, prone to cracking.

Easily soiled, has good vapor permeability.

1,5–4,5
Silicon / silicate. It is made on liquid potassium glass. High resistance to damage, mold, fungi.

Has a rich spectrum of color palette, provides vapor transmission.

It is difficult to apply, the presence of alkali is unsafe for humans.

2,0–4,0
Silicone - resin-based silicone Withstands strong mechanical stress, creates a breathable coating.

Does not absorb dirt, easy to clean, has a wide range of colors.

1,7-2,4
Polysilicon / semi-silicate contains silicone resinous substances Forms an elastic surface of the plaster layer, resistant to UV rays.

Does not crack, is not afraid of blows, is easy to apply, safe for health.

One drawback: afraid of mold.

2,0–4,0

Types of basement plastering

You can create a decorative coating in several ways:

  1. Spray method- is considered the easiest to create, provides excellent hydro and thermal insulation.
  2. Terrazit plaster- a laborious process, justified by obtaining a smooth and attractive surface. It is created from two layers: preparatory and top. After the first one dries, it is moistened, a second layer is applied and leveled with a special grater.
  3. Plaster "under the stone"- the most popular finish. There are no special difficulties during creation. The cement mixture is leveled on the surface of the plinth and the selected pattern is applied (pressed, cut through) with special devices.

There are many types of stone imitations. The most accessible for repetition are:

  • Roman masonry;
  • plastushka - limestone copying;
  • torn but - an uneven large stone is formed;
  • hewn stone;
  • bricks;
  • medium limestone/sandstone;
  • pebble - round small stones.

Performing any imitation of masonry, it is important to achieve harmony, believability, avoid distortions of the pattern, too precise fit.

Self-plastering technology

The process of applying plaster with your own hands is simple and affordable. The work is carried out sequentially and consists of three stages.

Plinth preparation

The old foundation requires attention, it may have cracks, bumps, flaws. Inspect, and make repairs in the right places.

Seal cracks, potholes (more than 1.5–2 cm), remove the peeled coating. Try to align the vertical, knock down the influx of the solution. If fragments (stone/brick) are missing, fill in the masonry.

Clean the wall of dirt with a stiff brush. In brickwork, go through the seams, make notches on smooth walls.

The new base does not need preparation - it is wetted with water before work, primed if desired.

An unreliable coating will be on walls covered with lime plasters, clay, whitewash. Everything needs to be cleaned and primed. The surface must be hard and clean.

Primer

Apply a primer with a deep penetration water-repellent effect on the prepared plinth. For this, quartz, silicone are suitable (good compositions under the Cerizit brand). The primer will enhance adhesion, prevent the new plaster from falling off.

On uneven surfaces, fine mesh reinforcement is used. It is fixed with special dowels to the wall, leaving a distance of 2 cm, and a solution is applied over the grid.

Application of the mixture

This layer is the alignment. The second layer is applied with a trowel or plaster ladle, then equal to the rule.

After drying, a texture (drawing, pattern) is created or a decorative composition is applied. It is possible to paint with facade compositions.

Drying is best done at moderate humidity. The side located in the sun is covered with polyethylene. This will prevent cracking.

Conclusion

Plastering the basement makes it possible to quickly, inexpensively and efficiently equip the foundation. Self-finishing is not difficult and saves money. Experts calculate the price per square meter, the number of slopes, right angles and the condition of the old basement.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Share your skills in the comments, tell us about the materials used.

Regardless of what kind of foundation is made, sooner or later it will still begin to collapse. Especially quickly cracks and damage appear on a brick and block foundation. It's no secret that cement is short-lived. It is not able to withstand the influence of rain, and therefore is washed out rather quickly. It goes without saying that every owner of the house thinks about protecting the foundation. In this case, the plaster of the foundation will be the best defender, and plastering the foundation with your own hands is quite within the power of everyone.

What are the positive aspects of foundation plastering? First of all, of course, this is its easy updating and simple repair. It is very important to remember that plastering the foundation and the interior are two completely different processes. In order for the plastering work to be carried out correctly, and the coating to last for many years, you need to know some secrets of preparing a plaster solution, coupled with the rules for applying it. It is worth noting that the addition of color pigment to the solution will further decorate the foundation.

What cement mortar is needed?

To date, there are several options for solutions suitable for plastering work. Among them are solutions based on:

  • gypsum;
  • clays;
  • lime;
  • sand;
  • cement, etc.

It is worth saying that solutions with the first three additives can in no case be used for foundation plastering, since they are intended for interior decoration. It is important to remember that plastering the foundation of a house, more precisely, its basement, can be carried out exclusively with a cement-based mortar.

What should be included in the solution? In this case, only plasticizers, as well as various waterproofing components, can serve as additives. Today, finding such solutions is not difficult - there are quite a few of them in hardware stores.

It is worth saying that at first glance, these solutions practically do not differ from each other. However, if you look closely, you can see the difference in the percentage of additives. This difference is very important. So, for example, the most plastic mortar is applied much easier and is ideal for subsequent decoration of the foundation. Mixtures with a large addition of waterproofing additives are perfect for places with high humidity.

There is a rule that states that a cement to sand ratio of 1:5 will be acceptable for plaster. However, such a rule is incorrect, since such a mortar for foundation plaster will “fall apart” after a while. The optimal proportion in this case is 1:3, while it is important to remember that only quarry sand can be used, and sifted. The volume of water each time is selected individually. So, for a priming layer, liquid plaster is quite suitable, while for a covering one - plastic, sour cream type.

Solution preparation

The preparation of the solution includes five steps:

Foundation preparation

Plastering the foundation with your own hands is not a difficult task, but painstaking. In order to qualitatively and correctly apply the plaster, the foundation must be prepared in advance. In this case, you must adhere to 4 rules:

Stages of finishing the foundation

Before you start plastering the foundation, you must:


Beacons are installed as follows:

  1. Using the hydraulic level, an even strip is drawn on the ground near the foundation. It is important that the indentation from the foundation is practically invisible (2-3 cm), the strip should run closely.
  2. At the place where the corner of the wall with the strip will intersect, the peg is installed strictly vertically, and the height of the peg must correspond to the height of the base.
  3. The distance formed between the peg and the foundation should be filled with mortar. A vertical mound should form, the alignment of which should be done using the building level. Such beacons should be made in all corners, as well as every 1.5-2 meters.
  4. 3 nails should be driven into the pegs intended for corner beacons, on which the cord must be pulled. This lace will work as a guideline, according to which the foundation will be plastered under the stone. Accordingly, after pulling the lace, 3 lines will appear: below, in the middle and on top of the base. It is important to remember that between the laces and the beacons themselves, there should be an opening of 1 mm.

How to plaster the foundation? There is nothing complicated in the further process.

  • First of all, you should wait for the beacons to dry, after which it is necessary to spray the foundation. First of all, it is wetted with water. After that, using a ladle or trowel, a cement mortar prepared in advance according to the rules described above is sprayed. The permissible layer thickness varies between 5-9 mm.
  • After the “spray” dries, a primer composition should be applied over it - more liquid.
  • After the primer has set, a covering composition should be applied - thicker and more plastic. It is this composition that is a plaster mortar with waterproofing agents and plasticizers.
  • The last stage involves rubbing the surface. With this process, it is possible to achieve the smoothest surface, and also allows it to be leveled. Grouting is carried out using a special grater, which has a fine metal mesh. You can also use foam, or some other special tools. The most important thing is to choose the right moment for mashing. In this case, the plaster should not be completely dry, but it should already be set. You can produce plaster in a variety of ways - under a stone, or give it a relief surface.

The plastering of the foundation of the house is carried out for its high-quality protection from a variety of negative environmental factors. With your own hands, this procedure is performed for a long time, but without any particular difficulties.

Over time, the foundation of any residential building begins to collapse. It does not matter by what technology and from what material it was made. The fastest damage and operational cracks are formed on and on brick foundations.

You can protect them simply - just plaster the foundation with a special cement-based mortar. A similar procedure should be performed regularly, and then the foundation of your home will always be in perfect condition.

Plaster protects the foundation from many problems. The following natural factors have a harmful effect on it:

  1. Snow. It impregnates masonry during thaws and thawing, which leads to its destruction.
  2. Rain. When it rains, the walls get wet first. Through them, water flows into the lower part of the house and nourishes its foundation. The walls dry out quickly enough, but the foundation dries poorly and takes a long time.
  3. Ultraviolet. The sun's rays heat the masonry during the day, it becomes hot. At night, the temperature drops and the base of the residential building cools. Due to constant temperature changes, the masonry begins to crack and lose its strength.

House foundation plaster

One more moment. In autumn, when it often rains, the concrete base of the building accumulates moisture. Water enters it through small pores and stays there. With the onset of cold weather, this moisture expands when it freezes and begins to put pressure on the foundation from the inside. As a result, by spring, tangible cracks appear on it.

The plaster of the foundation of the house protects your home from all these negative influences. But only under the condition of proper preparation and application of a protective composition to the base of the building. Here it is necessary to understand that inside the dwelling and applying the plaster mixture to the foundation are two completely different processes. Next, we will tell you how to properly process the base of the house.

To perform work to protect the foundations of residential buildings, a cement composition is usually used. The technology for preparing such a solution is given below:

  1. Take quarry sand (river material cannot be used). Use a sieve to carefully sift it. It is important to ensure that the composition does not contain clay impurities, small stones and other inclusions. The presence in it of even very small and insignificant stones in your opinion can significantly complicate the performance of plastering work. If you purchased absolutely clean sand, you can not sift it.
  2. The cleaned quarry material is mixed with cement. At this stage of work, it is important to determine the proportions that the finished plaster composition should have. If you use M500 cement, 5 parts of sand should be added to one part of it. And not otherwise. But for cement M400, 4 parts of sand are enough.
  3. Now you need to add water to the kneaded composition. Its quantity is selected individually. Wet sand requires less liquid, and very dry sand requires much more. In practice, they do so. Add a little water to the mixture of sand and cement, knead it, add the liquid again. Do this until a solution is obtained, similar in density to homemade sour cream.

Preparation of cement composition for plaster

When the cement composition is prepared in a concrete mixer, the technology for performing work will be slightly different. You need to pour a bucket of water into the unit, add a ready-made mixture of sand and cement (2-3 shovels), start the installation. After that, you should alternately add sand-cement composition and liquid to the concrete mixer until you get the same thick “sour cream”.

The characteristics of the mortar for plastering the base of the house can be significantly improved. To do this, add a couple of drops of PVA glue or a small amount of special plasticizers to the composition. Such additives give high elasticity to the mixture and simplify the implementation of plaster work with your own hands.

You will not be able to qualitatively plaster the foundation of a house without preliminary preparation. The list of preparatory work depends on the type of existing base and the degree of its destruction. Stick to the following pro tips:

  • Masonry on a concrete tape, on which there are breaks and large cracks, is allowed to be plastered only after removing all existing defects. All gaps must be drilled, and then cleaned out of them with a paint brush, pieces of concrete and dust.
  • Seams on block and brick bases must be cleaned. This is done with a thin spatula and a bristle hard brush. You need to remove with the help of these tools not only dust and small crumbs, but also completely clean the dried concrete composition from the seams.
  • Protrusions and various curvatures of foundations of any type should be removed. And only then proceed to the implementation of plastering with the use of cement mortar.

Preparing the base for plastering

If visually you do not see any serious defects on the basis of the house, this does not mean at all that preparatory measures can be omitted. Take a screwdriver or a small chisel and make a series of notches on the foundation. The crumbling areas of masonry after such processing must be removed and the surface cleaned to a solid base.

The next step is to apply a primer solution to the foundation. You need a composition of the so-called deep penetration. It's easy to find at any hardware store. It is advisable to treat the entire masonry with such a primer. If there is not enough primer, use the available volume to fill all cracks and chipped areas.

Most often, the event of interest to us is carried out in two layers. First, a primer is applied, and then a decorative one. Do your own work like this:

  1. Fasten the chain-link mesh with brackets or dowels to the base of the house being processed.
  2. At the corners of the masonry and every 150-200 cm along the perimeter of the structure, place metal profiles - beacons-landmarks that simplify the plastering process. They should be set to the water level. Pull the nylon thread between the mounted beacons. It will show the level to which you will need to pour the solution.
  3. Wait for the guide profiles to dry, spray the masonry with water.
  4. Put a 5–9 mm layer of plaster on the foundation with a trowel or ladle. This procedure is called grout spraying. Then treat the applied layer with a primer, wait for it to dry slightly. Then apply cement mortar again.

Applying a layer of plaster to the foundation

The first plaster layer is ready. It is advisable to draw wavy lines on it with a scraper. They will provide better adhesion of the preliminary layer to the decorative one. The distance between the individual lines in the form of waves is taken about 0.35 m.

You need to wait 5-7 days. During this time, the primer will harden. Note! Every day it is required to spray the plaster with plain water (a couple of times a day). In the daytime, when there is high solar activity, the foundation should be covered with parchment sheets, hard matting or burlap. Plaster can crack if not protected from the sun's rays.

Finishing plastering is carried out with a layer of no more than 5 mm. To perform this procedure, the solution described by us is used. But it needs to be slightly modified - add plasticizers and additional waterproofing components. The latter are not always used. But it’s better to spend money on them in order to provide the base of the house with high-quality moisture protection.

Finishing plastering

Then moisten the foundation with water and proceed to apply a decorative layer. This stage of work can be carried out according to different methods:

  1. Fur coat processing. The easiest option for applying the finishing plaster layer. Many home masters use it. The procedure is elementary - you collect a portion of the solution into the trowel and sharply throw it on the masonry. You can simplify the process even more. Dip an ordinary broom into the cement composition, and then with a sharp movement shake the mixture onto the base of the building.
  2. Obtaining a layer "under travertine". This technology involves throwing the solution on separate sections of the foundation (that is, the composition is applied in pieces, and not in a continuous layer). Then you should smooth out the edges of the thrown cement lumps with a steel trowel. As a result, you will get a surface with a smooth background, on which protrusions with various geometric parameters and shapes will stand out picturesquely. Everything looks quite original.

That's all the wisdom of plastering the foundation with your own hands.

The socle is called the part of the foundation, protruding above the surface of the earth. It can be made of concrete, representing a continuation of a monolithic foundation structure, or laid out of brick over a strip foundation.

In connection with this arrangement, the plinth is constantly exposed to precipitation, low temperatures and weathering, which negatively affects its appearance and integrity. Therefore, the basement of the foundation needs to provide additional protection, one of the methods of which is a layer-by-layer coating with a cement-sand mortar.

How to plaster the foundation of a house with your own hands is described in this article.

The feasibility of applying a plaster layer

The technology for protecting the basement with cement mortar allows you to simultaneously solve four important tasks:

  • protect the stone monolith from the negative effects of moisture, low temperatures and other environmental factors;
  • provide a beautiful addition to the overall decoration of the facade of the building;
  • additionally strengthen building structures, increasing their durability and reliability;
  • reduce the amount of heat loss through the building envelope.

It should also be noted that the technology of using a “wet facade” when finishing a basement requires minimal costs compared to other methods. That is why the plastering of the foundation has become so widespread in individual buildings.

Wet facade scheme.

Technical requirements for basement plaster

Taking into account the tasks that need to be solved as a result of applying a decorative and protective plaster layer, the requirements for the plaster planned for use are also determined:

  • weather resistance;
  • high strength and durability;
  • thermal insulation properties;
  • beautiful appearance.

Materials for plastering the basement of the foundation should also be affordable and not require complex preparation technology. All these conditions are fully consistent with the cement-sand mortar and polystyrene foam insulation. The latter will be required if you decide to insulate the basement of the building.


The scheme of finishing the foundation with plaster.

Manufacturers of building materials offer several types of ready-made dry mixes for facade plastering. Their quality and accuracy of proportions are beyond doubt, but a do-it-yourself cement-sand mortar will cost much less and provide a good quality coating.

It is advisable to use the ready-made mixture of factory preparation only on the top grout layer, which will take the main atmospheric influences.

Some types of ready-made mixtures contain dyes or fine marble chips. So such a composition is able to successfully decorate the basement of your house.

Preparation of plaster

How to plaster the foundation of the house? The work is carried out in three stages. Initially, a spray is applied to the fixed plaster mesh, i.e. throwing a thick (4-5 cm) layer on the wall. After that, a primer layer is applied, which fixes the spray and levels the surface. At the final stage, grouting is performed in order to give the surface a decorative look and its final fixing.

In each case, the plaster mortar is prepared from a mixture of cement and sand, with the possible addition of a plasticizer. But the ratio of the constituent components and the consistency of the solution differ:

  • for spraying, it is necessary to add 3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement and prepare the solution to the consistency of thick sour cream;
  • for the primer layer, take a ratio of 1: 2.5 and a solution resembling liquid sour cream;
  • the grout is made with a 1:2 solution with the addition of 1.5 parts of lime and a density at the level of milk cream.

It is better to prepare a mortar for spraying in a concrete mixer, since with a thick layer of plaster there will be a large consumption.


For the primer layer, and even more so for grouting, it is better to use a mixer based on an electric drill and knead in a bucket.

Necessary materials and tools

Before you plaster the foundation of the house with your own hands, you need to purchase the following materials:

  • cement brand M400 or M500;
  • river sand or washed;
  • pure water;
  • plasticizer or liquid detergent;
  • metal beacon rails;
  • edged board 20-30 cm wide;
  • plaster mesh netting;
  • dowels to secure the mesh.

In the event that you want to plaster and get a colored surface of the base, then you will additionally need a pigment dye, and for a mosaic surface - small granite, quartz or marble chips.

The set of necessary construction equipment and tools includes:

  • concrete mixer and a wide pallet for shipping the finished solution;
  • electric drill with a mixing nozzle;
  • perforator and hammer;
  • shovel;
  • building level;
  • plaster rule with a length of at least a meter;
  • trowel, plaster ladle and falcon;
  • plaster float;
  • wide paint brush (maklovitsa);
  • buckets;
  • cord.

If the upper part of the foundation is made of brick, then the hammer drill can be replaced with an impact electric drill.

Basement plastering technology

A full range of works on plastering the foundation of a building consists of the following stages:

  • preparatory work;
  • fixing the plaster mesh;
  • rough leveling of the surface by spraying;
  • applying a leveling primer layer;
  • installation of a heater;
  • final grouting of the surface;
  • finishing work.

Despite the large number of stages, each of them is technologically simple and can be performed independently, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

Preparatory work

Preparation of the foundation for plastering consists in cleaning the surface of dirt and removing exfoliated and damaged areas on the brick wall. The solution must be applied on a solid, integral base.

For better fixation of dust particles, it is recommended to prime the plinth surface with a deeply penetrating primer. This must be done before fixing the chain-link mesh on the wall.

Fixing the plaster mesh

Considering that the thickness of the spray layer is on average 4-5 cm, it is best to use a chain-link mesh as a material for reliable retention of the plaster layer. Its spatial structure will occupy almost the entire thickness of the layer, effectively reinforcing the structure.


Fastening is best done with expansion metal dowels with an L-shaped head.

They are firmly held in any stone walls and firmly fix the material by pressing the wire.

splatter

The main purpose of the sprayed layer is to roughly level the treated surface vertically and create a solid base for applying subsequent finishing layers.

For this purpose, an even edged board must be laid horizontally on the upper protruding part of the plinth so that it protrudes above the edge by the thickness of the plaster layer. To install the board, lay small piles of mortar every 30-40 cm and level with a building level.

To align the corners, install vertical boards on them. As a result, you will get a platform fenced with boards, which will need to be plastered by filling with cement mortar.


Top board.

To accurately determine the flat plane, vertical beacons from metal beacon rails are installed on the wall. Their fastening is made on a cement mortar. It is impossible to use quick-drying gypsum mixtures for this purpose, since they violate the overall structure of the layer and in the future can lead to its premature destruction.

The vertical installation of beacons and their location in the same plane must be checked by the building level. To simplify the work, two extreme beacons are first installed, and then two cords are pulled from them - one from above, the second from below. The remaining beacons are installed at a distance of no more than a meter from each other.


Spray.

Throwing a cement-sand mortar on the wall is best done with a plaster ladle. Filling is carried out in vertical stripes.

The thickness of the filling layer should be such that the surface is 1-2 cm below the top edge of the beacons.

Primary rough leveling is done with a trowel. For better fixing of the subsequent primer layer, it is recommended to make shallow scratches on the surface of the spray with a trowel or other metal object.


Installation of beacons.

Applying a primer

The application of primer is allowed only after the complete setting of the spray (72-96 hours). In hot weather, to maintain the required moisture content of the cement mortar, it can be hung with a damp cloth or periodically moistened with water.

The purpose of the primer layer is to level and fix the surface before final finishing. Therefore, the ratio of sand and cement in the solution will be less and will be 1:2.5. The layer thickness is 1-3 cm. The increased thickness of the soil can lead to the formation of cracks due to the increased content of cement.


Throwing the soil in the same way along vertical stripes, but leveling the surface is done with a plaster rule, resting it on two adjacent lighthouses.

As a result, you should get a solid, even surface throughout the base.

Decorative grout device

The grout layer is necessary for the final finishing on the outside and the elimination of all, even the most minor irregularities. The layer thickness is 2-3 mm, and the density of the solution is at the level of milk cream. To enhance the plasticity of the material, lime is added to it, which is soaked in water until a thick liquid is obtained.

To obtain colored plaster, a pigment dye can be added to the solution, having previously mixed it in water. This will allow you to achieve a beautiful color combination between the main facade of the building and the basement of the foundation.

Work is carried out only after the final hardening of the soil. In this case, the surface is first moistened with a wide brush or using a sprayer. The solution is not thrown onto the surface, but smeared with a thin layer with a trowel, and then leveled with a circular motion of the grater.

Special surface finishes

If you add small quartz, granite or marble chips to the solution, you can get the original texture "under the stone". To achieve a better similarity, the seams between the conditional stones can simply be drawn on the wall using a scrapel or other sharp and durable metal object.


Stone texture.

Plastering "under travertine" obtained by arranging two grout layers from a solution with the addition of a natural filler. After applying the second layer, they lightly pass over the surface with a metal brush, as if ruffling it, and then level it with the edge of the trowel, without pressing it hard.

Another finishing method is called "fur coat". It is made by walking with a fur roller over a freshly applied solution. In this case, the density of the solution should ensure its adhesion to the roller. The result is a rather original and unusual coating.

For more details on the use of these technologies, see the following videos.

 
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