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Tips: how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling on a frame made of wood and metal profiles. How to fix PVC panels on a wall, on a ceiling, on columns: instructions with photos and videos How to attach wall panels

What are the methods of fixing plastic panels to the wall? How to choose material? What tools will you need? All this and step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels.

Advantages of plastic panels

Polyvinyl chloride is a practical and durable material. It is widely used to decorate the surfaces of walls and ceilings. With the help of a wide variety of its shades, shapes and textures, the interior can be made stylish and beautiful. Advantages:

• resistance of the material to moisture;
• a simple system for attaching wall panels, which is within the power of beginners;
• long service life;
• fire safety;
• hygiene;
• convenience in the process of washing and cleaning;
• low cost;
• resistance to mold and mildew.

The disadvantage of PVC panels is low impact strength. It is necessary to carefully check the delivered building material and carefully mount it.

Tools for attaching PVC panels to the wall

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare a tool and auxiliary materials that will help in the work:

• for marking - a tape measure with a pencil or a washable marker;
• for cutting the canvas - a hacksaw with fine teeth;
• building level, plumb;
• triangle;
• for processing corners - a plastic profile or slats;
• for fixing on the surface - self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, kleimers;
• perforator, screwdriver;
• antiseptic solution, sealant, glue.

Accessories that will be needed in the process:

• corners external and internal;
• docking, starting and F-shaped profiles;
• plinth ceiling and floor.

To save time, choose a store where the entire set can be purchased in the same place as the main material.

Choice of plastic panels?

The characteristics of polyvinyl chloride depend on the manufacturer. There are panels from Europe and China on the market. In terms of quality, the overwhelming majority of participants in the first group win. The strength of the panel depends on the thickness of the walls and the number of rigid ribs located inside. Optimal indicators: the thickness of the front side of the panel is 2-1.5 mm, the number of stiffeners is 20-29, the total weight of the lamella is 2-1.7 kg/m2.

You should not make a purchase if:

• stiffeners are deformed or damaged;
• the lines of the drawing are indistinctly expressed, the edges are blurred;
• shades of panels from one stack differ from each other;
• scratched surface;
• the sizes of the segments are different (in this case, the fastening of plastic panels to the wall will be complicated due to loose fixation).

In order to check how reliable the material is, you need to press its surface with your finger. The front side should bend and return to its original state. If the panel is deformed, this indicates that it contains a high content of chalk and the service life will be short.

Calculation of the required number of plastic panels

Calculations are necessary in order to avoid overpayments due to the additional purchase of material. It will also take time if there are not enough building materials. Fixing PVC panels to the wall involves their vertical or horizontal arrangement. The choice depends on taste preferences. The calculation for the vertical is carried out as follows:

1. 1. We measure the room (length around the perimeter);
2. 2. Subtract the width of door and window openings;
3. 3. Divide the remainder by the width of one panel.

The result is the number of panels needed to finish the room. It is imperative to add a few additional units to it in case the material is accidentally damaged.

Horizontal calculation:

1. 1. We measure the area of ​​​​the room;
2. 2. Subtract the area of ​​door and window openings;
3. 3. The resulting number is divided by the area of ​​​​one panel from the kit offered in the store.

We add 10% to the obtained value - in reserve. When installed horizontally, the material will need to be cut, resulting in a small residue in the form of scraps.

PVC crate: material calculation

When decorating the walls with plastic, you will need to hide the wires for electricity. To do this, mount the panels on the crate. In order to buy the optimal amount of materials, calculations will also be required here. The crate is made of metal profile elements and wood laths.

Procedure for calculation:

1. 1. We measure the height of the walls in the room;
2. 2. The resulting indicator is divided by the step of placing the rails in the future crate (recommended 50 cm);
3. 3. We multiply the result by the perimeter of the room - we get the length of the profile in linear meters;
4. 4. We measure the height of the corners in the room;
5. 5. Multiply by their number - we get the total footage of the profile for processing corners;
6. 6. Add the perimeter of door and window openings.

As a result, you will get two values ​​- the length of the rails for the crate and the corner profile. Be sure to add some margin in case the material gets damaged during installation.

How to install wall panels in the bathroom

For rooms with high humidity, in particular, a bathroom and a bathroom, PVC panels are best suited because they are not afraid of moisture, fungus and mold. With the help of modern decor options, the design of these rooms can be made stylish and concise without spending a lot of money. To do this, it is not necessary to buy expensive collectible tiles - use PVC.

The process can be presented in three versions:

• with the use of adhesives;
• using self-tapping screws;
• using clamps.

Glue is suitable for perfectly even and smooth surfaces. Choose any of those sold on the market: liquid nails, universal "Moment" or a specialized compound for PVC panels. Glue will simplify and reduce the cost of bathroom repairs, because there is no need to build a crate. The disadvantage of this option is the difficulty of replacing a damaged panel with a new one, since it will be firmly glued to the wall. It will have to be dismantled along with the outer layer of wall decoration, which will then need to be restored.

Self-tapping screws are easier. The option is convenient for masking pipes and wires. To speed up the process, it is recommended to use a screwdriver. Surface leveling is not required. The disadvantage is the need to build a crate base from wooden slats. This is an additional cost of time and money. Before attaching the wall panels to the clamps, a metal crate must be installed on the wall.

Finishing the bathroom with glue

Before installing plastic panels, it is necessary to prepare the base. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean the walls, putty, let them dry and level. Before that, the old coating is completely removed from the wall - wallpaper, tile or peeling paint.

Putty will well hide all the cracks, cracks and bumps on the walls. The size of the differences is allowed up to five millimeters. If the plastic is stuck on deep pits or bumps, then over time it will deform or peel off. Why remove the old coating from the wall? It contains dust, dirt and grease. All this will prevent the normal adhesion of the adhesive coating. If whitewash is applied to the wall, it is thoroughly washed off, the fat is cleaned off with detergents. Then a primer is applied and the wall is leveled.

Step instruction:

1. 1. Wall preparation: remove the old coating, clean, putty, sand;
2. 2. Clean the back of the panel with a damp cloth, dry;
3. 3. Apply glue to the back side of the building material using the dot method with a step of 20 mm;
4. 4. Attach carefully.

When using liquid nails as an adhesive composition, the panel is then tapped and detached from the surface for 5-7 minutes. The composition requires weathering. After a short break, the PVC returns to the wall.

The frameless method does not involve the formation of corners. As a final finish, cladding with ordinary plastic corners is suitable. They do not have grooves, so use transparent silicone to mount them.

When finishing around the sockets, pre-cut holes for them. Make the necessary measurements and mark the place where you want to make a cut. During work, turn off the electricity.

Skirting boards are installed last. For this, self-tapping screws are used - with the help of them, the material is attached to the wall, before that, holes are drilled. The joint zones between the segments of the lamellas are filled with silicone sealant or ordinary mounting foam. This must be done so that moisture does not get under the plastic surface of the updated wall.

Glue choice?

The modern market offers universal adhesive compositions:

• Moment Crystal;
• Kleiberite 636;
• Emfikol 34012A.

They are suitable for fixing PVC without professional help. Specialists use glue for plastic. The main rule of choice is to buy in a specialized store. This way you will protect yourself from acquiring fake or expired products. If you decide to buy PVC adhesive on the market, pay attention to the date of manufacture and the appearance of the package. Good quality adhesive composition will provide:

• its quick setting with surfaces;
• long and reliable fixation;
• resistance to temperature extremes, moisture, frost.

Kitchen "apron": fastening technology in a spacer

Most often, the so-called. "apron" in the kitchen is made using expanded clay or tile. But you need to be able to lay tiles. Those who do not want to spend money on calling the master and are confident in their abilities can equip the kitchen with PVC panels. Modern plastic options successfully imitate expensive collections of ceramic tiles.

The technology "in spacer" does not require the use of lathing, adhesive composition and special fasteners. It is suitable for small kitchens where the work area is covered with a single panel sheet. Step-by-step instruction:

1. 1. Install the panel on the countertop with the bottom edge, cut the material to the required dimensions of the intended "apron";
2. 2. Insert the upper part behind the hanging cabinet so that it securely presses the sheet against the wall; fixation can be improved with fasteners in the form of staples;
3. 3. Fix the bottom of the panel with a skirting board - it must be securely fixed to the countertop, it is better to choose a massive and durable option for the floor.

The advantage of this method is that the "apron" at any time can be easily changed to another.

We fix PVC on the crate frame

Before sheathing, the wall must be cleaned, but without serious leveling of the surface. Cosmetic repairs to the bathroom, bathroom or kitchen require additional treatment of the walls with an antiseptic composition and waterproofing.

For the manufacture of the crate, wooden bars 2x2 cm are taken. For rooms with high moisture content - bathrooms and showers - metal elements are recommended. Before using wood, the material is thoroughly dried to avoid its possible deformation. The bars are treated with an antiseptic. If you decide to use metal, then choose a profile element marked UD (main part of the contour) and CD (contour guides).

The construction of the crate structure must begin with the markup. First, we determine the lower level - it can be on the floor or higher, depending on the design idea. This is where the bottom plinth will be installed. As a guide, take the most protruding section of the wall - it will determine the total indentation of the crate. Add 2-3 mm to the indent. This must be done, because wood even under slight influence of moisture is deformed.

Then the upper fit line of the crate and the side levels are determined. To level the top and bottom, use the building level, for the sides - a plumb line. Fixation is made on direct suspensions. We place screws in increments of up to 25 cm for wood and up to 15 cm for metal. We fasten the bars first along the edges, then to the center. This avoids design distortions and inaccuracies.

After attaching the top, bottom and side rails, we proceed to the installation of the internal ones. This is done taking into account the choice of the type of arrangement of the lamellas themselves - vertical or horizontal. Subsequently, the lamellas will be attached perpendicular to the internal guides.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. 1. We install moldings - external, internal (corner, lower, upper);
2. 2. We fasten the first panel and fix it with a clamp (the edges of the lamella are included in the upper and lower profile);
3. 3. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the first, fixed in the same way, and so on;
4. 4. We install the material to the end of the wall;
5. 5. We fasten the last panel so that it fits snugly into the corner area all the way.

If there are pipes in the room that need to be hidden behind the panels, the crate is formed in such a way that they will be located under its frame. Additional corners required. Counters, valve taps and other elements to which access should be periodically opened can be hidden behind a decorative door. To do this, the panel to the guide must be "planted" on small loops.

When choosing and installing a room, bathroom, kitchen, follow the rules:

• you should not combine plastic with expensive finishing materials - stone, tile, granite, it will look tasteless;
• for small rooms, choose panels of light shades or with photo printing;
• smooth materials are suitable for rooms with high humidity; a pronounced and deep texture will require constant cleaning, otherwise mold or fungus will appear;
• when choosing panels, try to stick to the overall ensemble and color scheme in the decor.

Plastic panels are a unique modern product with which you can create incredible images. With a little imagination, you can make your home unique and original. Study the proposed instructions and boldly proceed with the repair!

During repairs, you don’t always want to get involved with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There is a simpler technology - wall decoration with plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience in construction work and in a day or two carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony / loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made of PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is extruded into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a flat, but a textured surface. The drawing applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but such materials cost about two times more.

Another technology is to apply the drawing directly to the plastic, after which it is covered with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the pattern is lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those designed for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and wall ones - from 8 to 10 mm and a greater thickness of walls and partitions. You can determine which view is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material differs in that it has a flat surface and, with a tight joint, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges, which are more typical for plastic lining. If you finish the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to a wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

In width, plastic wall panels are most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are most common. For the price, you can observe a rather strong spread - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the pattern, etc.

Name/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Coloring type	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
violet pink	250mm*2700mm*8mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub
Kanamala	250mm*2700mm*9mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950mm*480mm*3mm		Russia	128 rub
scarlet	250mm*2700mm*8mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 rub

Thin PVC wall panels

Above, we talked about products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for not using them. Therefore, thin wall plastic panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push through. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950*480mm or so.

The method of installation is different for them - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But in order to avoid difficulties during the installation process, when buying, you need to track some points:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. It is necessary to take one bar so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, inspect it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

Correct technology for mounting plastic panels on walls

What is good about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself, it takes a little time. Well, and one more plus - you need the usual tools:

This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on the walls. It takes time - one or two days, depending on the experience and repaired areas.

What to make a crate

The installation of PVC panels on the walls according to the technology should be carried out on the crate. The crate is made from:

Of the three listed materials for mounting plastic panels in the bathroom, it is best to use plastic. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanized feels good in a humid environment, but it must be of good quality, otherwise it will rust anyway. The most unimportant material is wood, but with proper processing, they also cost years. And for this to be true, follow the recommendations for application on the antibacterial composition exactly. In some cases, it is enough to smear with a brush a couple of times, in others - soak for a while and then dry.

How to make a crate

Before starting the installation of the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and everything that can fall off. If there are large indentations on the surface, it is better to close them up, and strongly protruding parts can be cut off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After that, you can already proceed with the installation of the crate.

Lathing slats are located perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you mount the panels vertically, the crate - horizontally and vice versa. Lathing battens are installed at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. The optimal distance is 30 cm (the panel will “walk” less). Planks are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The crate is fastened under the plastic panels, most often on dowels. They put 6 * 40 mm in a concrete wall (so that a piece does not fall out on the back of the concrete partition), 6 * 60 mm in a brick wall. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be even and beautiful, the crate must be set in the same plane. To do this, wooden strips are installed under the wooden planks where necessary (you can - pieces of plywood), only they also need to be treated with a composition from fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in the same plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden bars.

If you decide to make a crate from plastic mounting profiles, then you should take into account one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals / horizontals very carefully. One more thing: along the perimeter of walls, doors and windows, it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as plastic guides: we will attach starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the actual wall plastic panels in the store, you will need to buy some more fittings - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary in order to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the level of the floor and ceiling, you can use either a starting or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product that has a characteristic cut.

Finishing walls with PVC panels begins with the installation of selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top / bottom. They are attached to the installed slats of the crate. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the crate. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert panels into it.

The problem node is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel along the length or height of the wall. Cut plastic wall panels with a saw with a blade for metal. When working strongly with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean - push through. In order for the strip to stand in its place without problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

A protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which it is inserted into the corner profile with the cut side, tucking the edges into the upper and lower. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, drive the bar all the way, check the verticality with a level by applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they are fixed to each plank of the crate.

Having installed and fixed the first strip, cut off the second one, join it with the first one, fix it, etc. No complications. Problems can only arise with the last panel on the wall. It usually has to be cut in width, and then try to fill it immediately into the groove of the previous bar and into the corner or starting profile. It does not always work out neatly - often the plastic is jammed. This situation can be avoided without fixing the second corner profile. Then, a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, all this is joined together with the previous bar, and only then the corner profile is fixed. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, and the second remains loose. But having suffered, trying to do the right thing, you don’t pay attention to it. Then everything repeats - further wall decoration with plastic panels occurs in the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall is familiar to us, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or clerical knife. If a strip of plastic is cut from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. From the front side, this will not be visible in any way, and torment with the last panel can be avoided. And outwardly, many people like this way more.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel, fasten it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, try it on. If everything is fine, use this piece as a template, transferring exactly the place of the cut. This is also not according to technology, but such wall decoration with plastic panels looks, it seems to me, better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls

Although the method of decorating walls with plastic panels described above is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly even after plastering on lighthouses or. It is clear that the crate is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they go to the violation of technology - they glue plastic panels on silicone or on mounting foam.

Starting profiles in this case will still have to be installed, but they will need to be fixed to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone (islets with a step of 10-15 cm) is applied to the back side of the panel, the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, fixed in one or two places with the appropriate fasteners. Continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on flat (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the trim without destroying the plastic panels.

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How to fix PVC panels to the ceiling - 4 proven options

Plastic trim now has both supporters who admire its beauty and practicality, and opponents who believe that artificial materials have no place in the house. I'm not going to philosophize on this topic now, but if you need to finish the ceiling quickly, inexpensively and with good results, then plastic is a worthy choice. In this material, I will try to describe in detail how to properly fix PVC panels to the ceiling in four proven ways, and you yourself choose what suits you best.

I must say right away that the very fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling in all four ways is not much different. In this case, we will talk about creating the basis for such a coating. But first, let's deal with the preparation for the main process.

What to consider when preparing

Before going to the store, please note that there are PVC panels for the ceiling and there are plastic panels for the walls. If everything is correctly mounted, then in appearance they will look exactly the same.

The differences lie in the features. Facing for the ceiling is traditionally made lighter and thinner, so as not to load the suspension with extra pounds. At the same time, wall decoration is able to withstand higher mechanical and point loads.

Of course, on a good basis, you can safely mount both ceiling and wall panels. But think about whether you need increased strength on the ceiling. After all, no one will hurt him with his elbows, and the claws of pets will not get there either. But you will have to pay more money, because the price of wall plastic is at least 30% higher.

Now a few words about what panels are. Without going deep into the wilds, 2 main areas can be distinguished: these are seam and seamless panels.

Seam panels, for external similarity, are also commonly called plastic clapboard, as a rule, they are cheaper. But not every interior is suitable.

In most cases, people prefer to veneer the ceilings of residential premises with seamless panels with a glossy finish. Naturally, upon closer examination, the connecting seam is easy to notice. But believe me, such ceilings look much more spectacular.

The width of standard panels ranges from 250 to 500 mm. The length, depending on the specific model and manufacturer, can be from 2.7 to 6.0 m. Of course, there is also a plastic lining with a width of 100 to 200 mm, but I do not recommend it to you, since it looks rather mediocre on the ceiling.

And don't forget the accessories. If you are limited only to the ceiling, then you will need a ceiling plinth to equip the perimeter. There is a small nuance here: when the walls are even, it is better to take a specialized decorative plastic plinth with a mounting groove.

If there is a “wave” along the wall, then against the background of a flat plinth, this curvature will be too noticeable. In this case, I recommend taking a regular U-shaped starting profile, and in addition to it, glue a flexible vinyl ceiling plinth on top.

Among such accessories there is also an H-shaped docking profile. Even if you are not going to dock anything, I recommend that you take at least one bar in reserve. It costs a penny, but it can help out well if you have to repair some segment of the ceiling.

Equipping the base

As I said, fastening the panels to the base is the same everywhere. It is much more important to prepare this very foundation well. In general, there are 4 types of bases for such a cladding:

1. Metal frame assembled from UD and CD profiles;
2. Wooden frame;
3. Installation of panels on plastic rails with movable clamps;
4. Bonding panels directly to the ceiling.

Option number 1. We assemble the iron frame

The frame made of galvanized profiles is the most reliable, strong and durable version of the ceiling cladding. Of course, the arrangement of such a design, in comparison with all other basics, requires time and financial investments.

But take my word for it, the metal frame is worth the sacrifice. After all, if one day you get tired of plastic, then you can dismantle it with your own hands in a couple of hours. But instead of it, you can already install whatever you want, drywall sheets, MDF panels, wooden lining and many other worthy facing materials.

I am sure that you have seen such constructions more than once, but you probably thought that it was too complicated, at least until I mastered this science myself, I thought that way. Do not worry, there is nothing here that would require fundamental knowledge in the field of construction. If you are not afraid of a drill, a screwdriver and a grinder, then this instruction is quite up to you.

In fact, the only drawback of a suspended metal frame is that it will make your ceiling at least 5-7 cm lower. For homeowners with ceilings of 3m and above, this detail often does not play any role. But the owners of Khrushchev have something to think about.

Any similar design is assembled from 2 types of galvanized metal profile. This is the so-called UD profile, in the domestic marking PN (guide profile), and CD profile, in our PP classification (ceiling profile).

In addition to the profiles themselves, you will also need perforated metal hangers and, of course, “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors, this already depends on the type of base. Between themselves, metal profiles and suspensions are fixed using small metal screws. In the people they are called fleas or bugs, as someone is used to.

By the way, we will also mount the plastic lining on 4.2x16 mm self-tapping screws. My advice to you, take at least 100 - 200 pieces at once, they will not be superfluous on the farm.

When purchasing material for such work, you need to take at least 10% more. This 10% is usually spent on pruning, marriage and other unforeseen circumstances. Plus, it's always best to have a small spare in case of an emergency repair.

From the obligatory tool you will need a screwdriver and a drill or a hammer drill. Metal profiles can be cut with a grinder, but, for example, it is more convenient for me to work with metal shears.

It's good if you have a laser level, but this tool is professional and the price is fantastic. Therefore, instead of it, a hydraulic level is often used.

Do not confuse the hydraulic level and the usual building level. The hydro level is a long transparent tube into which water is poured, this device works on the principle of communicating vessels and has flasks with graduations along the edges. Its price is not high, so it is better to buy, it will not be superfluous.

• Naturally, work on the installation of any frame begins with marking. In this case, we will need to find in which direction the ceiling is “littered”. The fact is that all ceilings seem to be strictly horizontal, only until you start measuring them. In 90% of cases, there are necessarily differences in the corners. And we need to find the lowest corner. This is where the laser or hydraulic level comes in handy;

• Having found the “littered” corner, you need to measure 50 mm down from it, this will be the level of the plane of our future ceiling. When constructing suspended ceilings of this type, 50 mm is the minimum, but if it is planned to install a heater on the ceiling or any communications pass through it, then the depth can be done more;
• Further, starting from the marked corner, you will need to transfer this horizon to the entire room. This is where the hydraulic level comes in handy again. It will be necessary to mark adjacent points in the corners, then rub the cord with chalk, pull it along the wall between the marking points and beat off the horizontal;
• A UD (PN) profile will be installed along this horizontal line, it will pass along the lower cut of the profile. The profile itself is attached to the wall with “Quick Installation” dowels or anchors with a pitch of about 60 - 80 cm. Moreover, so that both of its wings are directed inside the room, since later we will insert a CD (PP) profile into this groove;
• Now let's talk about how to attach a CD (PP) profile, we will have it as the basis for PVC panels. Again, you first need to mark the installation sites of the carrier profiles;

Remember, the carrier profile and PVC panels should be perpendicular to each other, and it doesn’t matter what the profile is made of, metal, wood or plastic. By the way, not only plastic is mounted this way, any longitudinal panels, be it MDF, lining or siding, are also attached perpendicular to the rails.

• As I said, the CD (PP) profile will be inserted into the opposite grooves of the UD (PN) profile, but one such fastening is not enough, so the CD (PP) profile will still need to be hung on perforated suspensions to the ceiling;
• Perforated hangers are fixed to the ceiling with the same dowels "Quick installation" or anchor bolts. But in order for them to pass clearly above the CD (PP) profile on the ceiling, a straight line should be beaten off with a coated cord;
• After marking, you can proceed with the installation of suspensions according to this markup.. For plastic, it is enough to install suspensions at a distance of 80 cm. But I usually mount them more often, at a distance of about 60 cm. This is in case the owners then want to sheathe the ceiling with heavier material instead of plastic, for example, MDF panels or clapboard;

• Then everything is simple. We insert the CD (PP) profile into the grooves of the UD (PN) profile, bend down the wings of the perforated hangers and fix the structure at all points of contact with small self-tapping screws. That's all, your frame is ready and you can start installing plastic panels on it.

Option number 2. We mount a wooden crate on the ceiling

Compared to the above option, it is much easier to mount a wooden crate. But it has both its pros and cons.

Of the advantages, one can point to ease of installation and lower cost of construction. A wooden frame will cost you less than a metal frame by more than 2 times.

But it is extremely undesirable to mount wood in damp rooms, for example, in services. Modern impregnations will still protect against mold and fungus, but in this case there is no protection against deformation during temperature and humidity changes.

There is one more nuance here, perfectly even dry bars are expensive. And if you take a budget option, then almost all the slats are slightly crooked. Accordingly, in order to bring such a frame to mind, you will have to tinker a lot. The cross section of the bar starts from 25x25 mm, if you take it thinner, it can split.

In this case, the wooden bars of the frame are attached directly to the ceiling, on self-tapping screws or anchors in increments of 60 - 80 cm. According to the rules, it is also supposed to display the plane strictly according to the level.

But if the ceiling is visually even, then you can simply fill the bars of the crate on it and not bother with bringing it to zero. After all, if a slight curvature was not visible before the beginning of the lining, then it will not be noticeable after its completion.

If there are large defects on the ceiling, then wooden wedges will help you here. Personally, I, according to the level strictly horizontally, with the help of wedges, first set 2 extreme strips.

After that, between them I pull 3 nylon cords (along the edges and in the center) and already along these cords I install the remaining laths of the crate. The distance between the planks of the wooden crate is maintained in the region of half a meter.

Option number 3. Installing a plastic crate

Plastic crate thing is very comfortable and very durable. But the problem is that it will cost no less than installing a metal frame. At the same time, you can fix only plastic PVC panels on such a base. No other facing material can be hung on it.

The plank of such a crate is a U-shaped profile with edges bent inward. Kleimers move along such a kind of guide, with the help of which the plastic panel is actually fixed.

To the ceiling, they are attached according to the same principle as the wooden crate. Only compared to wood, plastic is less durable, and if you have to use wooden wedges for, then the fixing screws or anchors are driven into the ceiling through the wedge.

This is important, because if the fixation point is in a different place, then if the wooden wedges are deformed, the expensive plastic battens may crack.

The big advantage of this version of the crate is not only that it is easy and quick to mount plastic on it, if necessary, you can also quickly disassemble this entire structure.

Moreover, both the plastic panels and the lathing slats will remain in their original form, and all this beauty can also be assembled elsewhere.

Option number 4. "Liquid nails" to help you

The vast majority of ceilings in urban apartments are reinforced concrete floor slabs. And if it is good to putty the joints between these plates, then you will get a perfectly flat ceiling.

It is not necessary to mount any crate on it; plastic panels can simply be glued to such a base on a construction adhesive called "Liquid Nails". Theoretically, you can take another glue, but, as far as I have come across, this is the one that is used.

Working with Liquid Nails glue has its own characteristics and it is better to take them into account, especially when it comes to ceiling work. If you simply lubricate the panel with glue and press it to the ceiling, then in this position you will have to stand and wait for the glue to set for at least half an hour. Agree, the prospect is not rosy.

You need to act differently:

• After lubricating the panel with glue, it is pressed against the ceiling so that the glue spreads and immediately comes off;
• Further, this panel is set aside and aged for 5 - 7 minutes;
• And only after that the plastic will easily, quickly and firmly stick to the ceiling.

“Liquid nails” glue is certainly good, but in order for it to firmly grasp on a concrete base, this very base should be primed. As a rule, 2 layers of standard deep penetration primer "Betonkontakt" are enough.

Of course, gluing panels to reinforced concrete floor slabs is fast, simple and inexpensive, and most importantly, it does not make ceilings lower. But I think you understand that it will no longer be possible to dismantle such a lining without damaging it. Basically, it's a one-time option.

Technique for mounting plastic panels

Now it's time to talk about how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling. Regardless of the length, width and thickness, all these panels are connected according to the tenon-groove principle.

But first you need to fix the starting profile around the perimeter of the room, into which the plastic panels will be inserted. I already mentioned above that if the walls of the room are even, then it makes sense to use a plastic ceiling plinth with a mounting groove as a starting profile.

The fastening of the ceiling plinth with the mounting groove is carried out in the same way as the fixing of the plastic panels themselves. That is:

• If you have a metal frame, then the plinth is attached to it with self-tapping screws;
• A plinth or starting profile can be screwed to a wooden frame either on self-tapping screws or “shoot” with staples of a construction stapler;
• On plastic guides, it is fixed with clamps;
• Well, to a flat ceiling it is simply glued to the "Liquid Nails".

Both in the ceiling plinth with a mounting groove and in the U-shaped starting profile, the lower support bar is specially made wider. It is in this extension that self-tapping screws or staples of a construction stapler are driven.

When the starting profile is mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic panels themselves. The first panel is inserted with a spike inside the starting profile, and on the reverse side, the lower edge of the groove is fixed on the guide bar with a self-tapping screw, bracket or clamp.

The next plastic panel is mounted in the same way. We insert the spike of the new panel into the groove of the previous one, press it against the guides and fix it at the back. As you can see, the instructions are extremely simple.

But most novice craftsmen often have a problem with how to fix the last panel on the ceiling. This issue is easily solved:

• First, we measure the distance from the penultimate panel to the edge of the starting profile, from this value we recline 5 - 7 mm and cut off our last panel;
• Next, we start the extreme panel with a cut into the starting profile, until it stops. As a result, the panel will become flush with the previous one;
• And now we are carefully trying to push the spike of our trimmed panel into the groove of the previous one. As a rule, after several attempts, everything falls into place.

The depth of the U-shaped starting profile or plinth with a mounting groove fluctuates around 10 - 20 mm, so the gap between the edge of the plinth and the trimmed plank will not be visible.

There is one more nuance in the question of how to fix the ceiling plinth for plastic panels. It is not so important whether you stick it or screw it on with self-tapping screws, a decent look largely depends on how accurately you join it in the corners.

Most instructions recommend simply taking a carpenter's miter box and "cutting" adjacent 45º corners. But in our houses, not all corners have a clear 90º, and if the angle is turned or vice versa is sharp, then the standard carpentry miter box is generally useless.

I do it quite differently. First, the plinth is applied to one side of the corner and lines are drawn along it on the ceiling and on the wall.

And then the same procedure must be done on the adjacent part of the corner. As a result, you get 2 intersection points, which will serve as guidelines for cutting the ceiling plinth.

Tip: the installation of electrical equipment is indirectly related to the ceiling lining. But my advice to you, if you are wiring under the skin, then before installing the plastic, assemble the circuit and check if it works. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble everything later.

Conclusion

Cladding the ceiling with plastic with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first. See the photos and videos in this article for more tips and tricks. And if you have any questions, leave them in the comments, I will try to help.

Plastic panels are easy to care for and are ideal for rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna, boiler room). A variety of colors and textures will help create a unique and cozy interior. For the installation of such panels, it is enough to have several tools at hand.

Necessary tool and preliminary preparation

The tools necessary for fixing plastic panels can be found in almost every home:

• electric drill;
• wood saw;
• scissors and a hacksaw for metal;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• tape measure, building level, pencil or marker;
• hammer, stapler;
• ladder.

First, use a tape measure to measure the work surface, this will allow you to correctly calculate the required amount of materials.

The surface must be freed from wallpaper. If the panels are glued, be sure to clean the walls or tiles from paint and dust.

Installation features and procedure

The panels are fastened either directly to the wall or to a crate prepared in advance. To mount on the wall, it must be perfectly flat. The crate is wooden bars or slats that are screwed to the surface at a certain distance from each other. For walls, the width between the slats should not exceed 30 - 40 cm, for the ceiling - no more than 30 cm. The slats for the crate are attached to the wall perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

If the wall to which the rails are attached is wooden or any other wall into which self-tapping screws are easily screwed, then it is best to use them to fasten the bars. If the wall is concrete or brick, then it is best to fasten the bars with dowel-nails or with ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws.

An example of fastening a crate for plastic panels.

Before you get started, you need to understand how to properly attach the plastic panels to the wall.

• If you decide to fasten the panels to the crate with nails, then keep in mind that the reuse of the material will be impossible, since, most likely, the integrity of the panel will be violated during dismantling.
• The best method of fastening is with clamps.
• But the use of staples that are driven in with a special stapler is also a good option.
• Another good option for fastening panels is self-tapping screws.

The most common ways of fastening plastic panels.

After you have decided on the method of fastening the panels, you need to do the following:

First, install the fittings: the final element, the outer or inner corner. If the panel closes the wall to the ceiling, then fix the ceiling plinth to the top beam.

Available types of fittings for plastic panels.

Insert the panel into the fixing element with a narrow fixing flange. The panel is fixed from the side of the wide mounting shelf with nails or brackets.

After making sure that the first panel is level, insert the next one with the narrow end into the groove of the previous panel. Try to mount panels closely to each other.

Installation of the necessary fittings and the first plastic panel.

The last plastic panel that completes the row must be inserted with force between the final element and the previous panel. If the panel needs to be reduced in width, then cut off the excess with a knife, moving along the panel.

Video: Installation of battens, fittings and PVC panels

Features of mounting plastic panels on walls

If the room is dry and the walls are even, then the panels can be mounted directly on the wall without using the crate.

Fastening panels with glue directly to the walls without using a crate.

In a room with high humidity, a plastic or metal mounting profile should be used as a crate. In this case, the panels are attached to the rails with special clips, which greatly facilitates the installation and dismantling of the structure.

Fastening panels using a plastic profile using special clips.

Consideration should be given to the expansion of the material with temperature changes, so when adjusting the height of the panels, leave a small gap. If a wide beam is used for the crate, then a heater or soundproofing material can be placed in the resulting space between the wall and the panels.

Features of mounting plastic panels on the ceiling

Now consider how to attach plastic panels to the ceiling. Before installation, it is necessary to determine the distance between the panels and the ceiling. This gap will depend on the type of lighting. If you plan to install recessed lights, then the distance should be at least 10-15 cm, so you can completely hide the wiring. Mark in advance with a pencil the places of the lamps, cut out the holes and install the bases of the lighting devices.

To give the room an aesthetic appearance, while keeping within a modest budget framework, you can use plastic panels from various materials. This method is very practical, since before fixing the plastic wall panels, it is not necessary to level the surface of the walls with plaster or other methods.

The implementation of this type of finish is possible even without experience in the repair and construction industry. However, it is important to follow the sequence of fastening the elements, having previously studied the features of their installation. The quality and method of performing the task depends on the type of material chosen: plastic, wood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF, PVC.

Choice of plastic panels

The method of installing wall panels is selected depending on the type of cladding material. One of the most popular types is PVC, which has been significantly improved in recent years. If the first samples did not differ in quality - they gave glare from the light of the sun or chandeliers, turned yellow over time, then modern products are characterized by durability, easy to use and environmentally friendly.

In addition, with the help of PVC, many design solutions can be realized. Manufacturers offer both single-color and multi-color products. It is also possible to sheathe the walls with mirrored or matte panels, panels with 3-D patterns, with ordinary patterns, including textured ones.

One of the main advantages of plastic panels is resistance to direct water ingress. Other types of finishing materials have a greater degree of vulnerability to moisture. Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to take into account the level of humidity in the room:

• wood panels can be made from oak, alder, maple or cedar. These are quite expensive materials. With high-quality processing with special protective agents, they can be used in the kitchen or bathroom. A budget option for finishing using natural materials is the use of combined wood, where expensive woods serve as the base layer, and the remaining layers are made of spruce or pine.
• Fiberboard panels have a long service life. Easy to clean, safe for health, resistant to moisture, but not recommended for use in areas where there is a possibility of direct contact with water.
• Chipboard is a material vulnerable to moisture and temperature extremes. It tends to crumble during processing. Recommended for use in dry rooms.
• MDF is a material made by pressing fine chips. Thanks to the technology used, the material has no restrictions depending on humidity. The component has high strength, which allows it to withstand significant loads (shelves or other furniture elements can be hung). Also, MDF panels have heat and sound insulating properties.

Wall sheathing with PVC panels - how to fix

To complete the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• plastic panels and corners;
• plastic guides;
• kleimers;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• stapler;
• pencil, square, hacksaw and tape measure.

Before fixing pvc wall panels, it is necessary to install and level the guides. To do this, you need to make holes for the dowels, then insert them, fix the guides with screws. The distance between the guides is 50-60 cm.

The next step is to install the panels. Corners are attached to the corners of the room with brackets. Installation of products is carried out, starting from the corner, moving towards the window or door opening from left to right. The installation sequence is as follows:

• the side bar of the panel is inserted into the groove of the inner corner;
• the mounting shelf of the product is fixed on the frame with brackets;
• a spike of the second is inserted into the groove of the fixed first panel, and its mounting shelf is attached similarly to the previous one - on the frame with the help of brackets;
• all subsequent panels are installed by analogy with the first and second;
• the closing bar must fit into the groove of the corner;
• after installing all the components, you need to install the skirting boards. They close the joints between walls, floor and ceiling.

When laying products, it is necessary to check the verticality of each element until it is fixed on the frame. The planks should be installed close to each other, and if necessary, you can adjust the length of the PVC panel by cutting it with a fine-toothed saw.

How to fix MDF panels

By analogy, before attaching the MDF wall panels, you should prepare the frame. Wooden planks are installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels and coated with a fire retardant compound. The distance between the frame elements is 50 cm.

• First you need to mark the walls with a level and a tape measure.
• Next, fasten the planks with nails, placing them vertically or horizontally, depending on the direction of fastening the panels.
• Installation of products is carried out from the corner. The first panel is fastened with a comb to the corner and must be installed with strict horizontal alignment. This is important as this panel is a guide for the others. Fastening is carried out with a bracket fixed in the center of the frame bar.
• Then you can proceed with the installation of the remaining elements, making sure that each subsequent part is closely attached to the previous one. In addition, each panel must be checked for horizontality before fixing to the crate. With the right markup, there should be no problems.

After the installation of the MDF panels is completed, the finishing should be completed by fixing the corners and finishing strips in their respective places. Fastening is carried out with glue, bolts or brackets.

Soft crate

An alternative to a frame made of metal or wood can be a crate based on double-sided foam tape. Such material, despite the apparent unreliability, has a fairly high characteristics of strength and durability.

The adhesive layer is viscous and resilient, and its composition is ideal for holding plastic products. For a good result, it is important to comply with the following conditions:

• thoroughly clean the surface from previous finishing materials (wallpaper, paint);
• cover the wall with a layer of rough putty 2-4 mm thick. Minor surface irregularities are allowed;
• use a high-quality finishing profile;
• minimize the contact of the adhesive layer with air.

With a fairly simple installation of panels on such a crate, you should avoid using this method for installing such products in the kitchen, in the children's room or in the gym. This is due, of course, to humidity, significant effects on the surface and some toxicity of the material. Good luck!