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Laying laminate without thresholds: possible problems and how to solve them. How to lay laminate flooring step by step instructions How to lay laminate flooring throughout the apartment

When hiring craftsmen to work on laying laminate, customers often ask that the coating lie a single canvas, that is, the rooms were inextricably linked with each other. It looks solid and beautiful, and at first glance eliminates many inconveniences, such as dust accumulation in the threshold area. The desire is understandable, but many people do not know the pitfalls that can emerge if the installation technology is violated, which will be discussed in today's article. So, laminate without thresholds- all for and against.

Non-threshold floor covering

So, it is customary to lay laminate in two ways - namely, with and without surface separation in doorways. What are advantages and disadvantages of laying laminate without a threshold?

Laminate throughout the apartment is not shared between rooms

Let's start with the first: from an aesthetic point of view, the whole canvas looks more attractive, and you don’t have to stumble over the sills and cling to the unscrewed self-tapping screws with socks and tights.

In fact, we consider these shortcomings to be far-fetched, since they can be correctly eliminated in another way. For example, in order not to stumble, it is worth using a flat threshold. This means that it is required that the level of the subfloor be the same in all rooms, which is also a mandatory requirement when laying laminate without seams in doorways. In order not to stick out the screws, thresholds with a hidden fastening are used, as shown in the following photo.

Composite aluminum threshold

We also consider the aesthetic superiority to be very doubtful, since the choice of modern thresholds allows you to choose options for a variety of interior styles.

The only indisputable advantage of such a coating will be unhindered cleaning - a lot of dirt accumulates under the threshold during operation, which is difficult to clean out.

Accurate passage of communications

Much more disadvantages of non-threshold styling with this setup:

1. The laying process is more difficult, since it is necessary to convey the direction of the lamellas in rows without distortions, accurately align the technological gap along the edges, and just as accurately hit the joints of the lamellas at the outlets of heating pipes and other obstacles.
2. With a high degree of probability, the laminate can soon rise and break - just in the doorways. This is due to the fact that this material has a rather large thermal expansion, plus it is able to increase in size when moisture gets inside.
3. The number of cuts increases, as does the consumption of material.
4. Part of the coating will have to be laid in the opposite direction, which is not always convenient.
5. Such laying can only be done during the construction of a house or a major overhaul.

That's not all subtleties of non-threshold laying of laminate. Which installation method is best, everyone decides for himself. Next, a chapter will be presented where everything will be described in detail, but now let's talk about getting ready for work.

Laying laminate without thresholds: all the nuances of installation

The process of laying laminate flooring itself is not very difficult if you follow the basic rules and requirements of manufacturers, which we will discuss in this chapter.

How to prepare your floors and workspace for laminate flooring

Before deciding on the flooring of such a coating, it should be clearly understood that it is purely decorative and is not capable of performing any load-bearing functions. Yes, due to the thickness of the material, the wooden floor can be strengthened, becoming less flexible, but no more. Any irregularities and differences in the base must be leveled during the preparation phase.

Wooden floor on logs - an ideal surface for laminate

There are two ways to level the floor - with a cement-sand screed or wooden (plywood) flooring along the logs. The second method is easy to implement and allows you to achieve high accuracy, but requires a certain height, which is reserved for the logs.

On a note! It is very important that the floors in neighboring rooms form a single plane, otherwise places of internal stress of the material will form in the doorways, that is, there will be a banal break. This will eventually lead to divergence or swelling of the lamellae, which is why it is so important to pay great attention to the alignment process.

Here are two instructions on how to correctly align the base and put everything in one plane.

Steps, photo:	Description of works:
Step 1 - Determination of the floor level	First you need to perform accurate markings and find the highest point of the floor in all rooms. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level. 1. The tool is installed in the center of the room, turns on the horizontal projection mode, and alternately aims at different walls. In this case, it is necessary to measure the distance from the floor to the line throughout the room using a tape measure or square, as shown in the photo. 2. The level of the found point is marked on the wall near the door. Now the laser must be directed so that it is projected onto the wall where the mark is and into the adjacent room. 3. The distance from the mark to the laser is measured, and the point is transferred to the next room using the tape measure. The same manipulations are carried out here. If the highest point in this room is higher than in the first, then we take it as the level. 4. In this manner, all connected rooms are traversed. The found highest point is transferred similarly to all rooms to expose the floor surface.
Step 2 - setting the lag by level	Now that you have a reference point, you can set the lags. They are mounted in increments of no more than 60 cm. They are set so that the edges of the plywood sheets or boards fall exactly in the centers of the bars. 1. According to the marked landmarks, the extreme logs in the room are set. They can be rigidly fixed to the floor (preferably) or left to lie under their own weight. 2. The distance from the floor is verified using linings of the desired thickness, cut from the same timber. 3. Bonding to the floor is carried out using anchors installed in a pre-prepared sweat, or steel corners, as shown in the photo on the left.
Step 3 - setting intermediate lags	The central logs are set with the help of straight rails laid perpendicularly. You can use a long level or a rule. If the distance is very large, then the thread is pulled tightly in several places. Attention! Log joints of adjacent rooms should not be made in doorways, or be sure to provide dressing in these places with plywood or boards.
Step 4 - Mounting the plywood	Next, the rough flooring is mounted. It is allowed to lay plywood sheets close, but on condition that they are fastened with self-tapping screws to all logs in increments of no more than 15 cm. It is more correct to leave a small deformation gap of 3-5 mm.

This leveling method is of little use for apartments, since a large rise in the floor level can pull significant alterations, but for private houses, where high ceilings and doors have not yet been installed, it will do just fine. It is good because it takes little time, does not dilute a lot of dirt, and with minimal material costs, you can set any level of the floor surface. At the same time, insulation will easily lie between the lags.

Cement screed for laminate as a base is not the best option. Concrete can pull moisture and transfer it to the coating, which will quickly lead to deformation and damage to the lamellas, but in conditions of limited space, the choice will be small. In addition, such a base allows you to securely join the laminate with ceramic tiles.

Laminate and tile joint on concrete base

The easiest way to use a self-leveling mixture on a cement or gypsum basis under the laminate. Here's how it's done.

Steps, photo:	Description of the workflow:
Step 1 - setting up beacons	First, beacons are set up, the first of which is located at the highest point of the floor. They are tripods and other similar devices that can pinpoint the desired level. The tripods have a movable central adjustable rod.
Step 2 - pouring the mixture	This step is combined, as it consists of several stages. 1. A damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which will separate the mixture from the walls. 2. The base is carefully primed to reduce its absorbency. 3. A fiberglass mesh is spread on the floor, which will significantly strengthen the surface - this stage is often skipped. 4. The composition is diluted with water clearly according to the manufacturer's instructions. And only after all this, the solution is poured onto the floor at the lowest point. The process takes place continuously until the self-leveling floor takes the desired level.
Step 3 - rolling the self-leveling floor with a spiked roller	Despite the high fluidity, the solution is distributed unevenly over the dry floor, therefore, during operation, the surface is rolled with a special spiked roller. This also allows the remaining air bubbles to be expelled from the inside.

Laminate flooring prices

underlay for laminate

After the mixture reaches the desired level, it is left to dry. Some types harden already after a few hours so that you can walk on the floor. However, laying laminate is only allowed after two weeks. The reason is that hydration processes take place in cement and gypsum for a long time. High humidity will saturate the laminate, causing it to swell.

Video - Technical requirements for laying laminate

Essential tool for seamless laminate flooring

We proceed to the preparation of tools and materials. The set will not be very large, so any home master can do this job.

Tools, photo:	Purpose:
Electric jigsaw	Most craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work. This is a universal tool that allows you to make a longitudinal and transverse cut of sufficiently high quality and at high speed. However, in some situations it is worth using more serious equipment. 1. A special saw blade for laminate is purchased for the jigsaw, the teeth of which are directed upwards. It is recommended by manufacturers. 2. The meaning of using such a file is as follows. She presses on the facial covering, and does not pull it towards herself. This eliminates the appearance of chips. Everything would be fine, only in this case it is necessary to use a jigsaw along the front side of the material, which means that it can be scratched by the sole of the tool. 3. In our opinion, it is more correct to make markings on the reverse side and cut with a standard wood file. There will be no chips here, and it is easier to mark, and there will be no scratches guaranteed.
miter saw	The process of laying in a non-threshold way requires a clear adjustment of the indent from the slope in the doorway. Clear and even cuts are needed to be sure that the casing will cover all the cracks. A miter saw will help with this. It is also good if narrow skirting boards are used.
Joiner's square	Using a square and a graphite pencil, the laminate is marked before cutting. A simple and inexpensive kit that gives high accuracy in measurements.
Finisher for laminate	There are several locks for joining the laminate. Some of them require the tenon to be inserted into the groove and fitted tightly by padding. This is easy to do when joining two whole lamellas in a free space, but extremely difficult when laying finishing strips. Here's a doboy to help. He clings with a corner to the edge of the board, after which they hit the outer part with a hammer, tightly connecting the parts.

Prices for electric jigsaws

Electric jigsaw

Ways of fixing laminate panels - lock type Lock

Attention! Of the materials, in addition to the laminate itself, you will need a substrate. It is made from different materials, but it performs one function - it levels out small differences in the base, creating a kind of damper, and insulates the floor. Substrates made of synthetic materials (foamed polyethylene) along the way isolate the laminate from moisture from the concrete base.

Cork backing for laminate flooring

Laminate prices

Do It Yourself: Laying Laminate Without Thresholds

Laminate Offset Rules

Now let's take a look How is non-threshold installation of laminate. The instruction is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to the steps.

Steps, photo:	Detailed description:
Step 1 - lay out the underlay	The floor surface is carefully cleaned. All particles that can disrupt the geometry of the future flooring are removed. A substrate is spread over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe rooms. This material is not fixed by anything, therefore, in order to avoid permanent displacement, it is recommended to glue the joints with any adhesive tape. The distance to the walls is left at 5 mm.
Step 2 - we carry out a preliminary layout of the laminate	Next is the pre-layout of the laminate. This is necessary in order to check the evenness of the walls relative to each other. To work, you need to take a coloring thread, set it aside from the wall along which the laminate will go, in two places the points that should fall on the doorway. Focusing on them, you need to draw a straight line going to the adjacent room. So you can check the correct geometry of the walls, get rid of unnecessary cuts.
Step 3 - lay the canvas	In no case should laminate flooring touch the walls when laid seamlessly. The minimum distance is 5 mm, and preferably 1 cm. To align the gap, use spacers that can be cut from laminate waste. The spacers should be tight so that the transverse joints do not break out during installation. We join the laminate according to the type of lock available. The most common option is called Click, when the joined lamella starts at an obtuse angle, and then bends down to the floor. With this installation, it is convenient to make a whole row, and then insert it at once.
Step 4 - cut the laminate	At the end of each row, you will have to use a cut off piece of lamella. It is necessary to measure its size after the fact, when the main part of the row has already been drawn up and laid. 1. The board is laid with a lock close to the wall upside down. The mark is placed, 2 mm short of the front of the laid canvas. 3. As a result, after docking, about 7 mm will remain to the wall, which are formed due to the fact that the lock goes inside the previous laminate board. 4. The next row starts from the second cut, which makes the laminate a virtually waste-free material.
Step 5 - go to the second room	We reach a row that can go into the next room without trimming, and temporarily lay several lamellas. To stiffen the structure, you can use trim, as shown in the photo. 1. We mark the transition lamella. Try to make a small margin - it is better to cut a couple of millimeters than to immediately remove the excess. 2. In order to avoid cracks in this difficult place, it is recommended to knock down the plaster just above the level of the laminate and make the laying denser, while observing the requirements for an expansion joint. Advice! All manipulations with plaster are done in advance so as not to dilute dirt. 3. When creating a U-shaped cut, it is better to round the corners. 4. We remove the temporarily laid row and install the trimmed lamella. Then several rows of freely passing through the opening are laid to make this part of the flooring stiffer. The part of the floor where the trimmings are laid in the photo is filled. The material here is mounted in the reverse order - a little more complicated, but everything is feasible.
Step 6 - fit the laminate to the pipes	Ideally, the places where the pipes pass should fall out at the seams. 1. This can be achieved by slightly shifting the position of the lamellas in each row by performing a preliminary layout. 2. The holes are drilled with a wood crown. Their diameter is 1 cm larger than that of the pipe. 3. If it was not possible to hit the seam, a cutout is made from the wall. The trim is glued back, which masks the untidy hole well.

Video - The process of laying laminate without thresholds

Conclusion

On this, in fact, everything. The quality of laying will depend, first of all, on the quality of the cut and the exact alignment of the technological gap along the entire perimeter of the web. And how long the laminate will lie will affect the evenness of the base, which has already been mentioned.

If you have questions remain- for example, about choice of laminate class, ask them in our VKontakte group.

For laying laminate flooring in a residential area, you can take class 31 laminate. It is important to pay attention to the quality of the locks, the density of the panel itself (and not just the abrasion of the surface indicated in the class) and the geometry of the panels (some manufacturers allow quite noticeable differences in size). If at least one of these elements is not taken into account, this will eventually lead to problems.

For laying laminate flooring in a residential area, you can take class 31 laminate. It is important to pay attention to the quality of the locks, the density of the panel itself (and not just the abrasion of the surface indicated in the class) and the geometry of the panels (some manufacturers allow quite noticeable differences in size). If at least one of these elements is not taken into account, this will eventually lead to problems. Weak locks will manifest themselves as cracks (they will appear the faster, the more uneven the base for the floor was). The density of the panel directly affects how your floor will react to changes in humidity and temperature. The harder the panel, the better for the floor, the larger the area can be laid without gaps.

Now more and more often choose laying laminate without thresholds. The advantage is the absence of thresholds between rooms. Perhaps this is indeed a plus. However, there are quite a few possible "cons". Firstly, laying laminate without thresholds is much more difficult than any other method. This requires some skill; It is better if this work is done by professionals. Secondly, for laying a floor without joints, it is necessary to carefully evaluate the geometry of the entire room. Without seams, it is possible to lay a laminate on an area of ​​45–50 m 2 or in a sheet with a length of no more than 8–10 meters. Any laying instructions you find in the package insist that there must be a gap between rooms. Why? Because there is a danger that near the doorway in one of the rooms the laminate may swell. The situation will look even more unstable if the area of ​​the laminate is more than 120 m2. The need for technical gaps is also supported by the fact that it is far from always possible to achieve a perfectly even base over a large area, and this is a mandatory requirement for seamless installation. In addition, if during operation it becomes necessary to replace a damaged panel, you will have to disassemble almost the entire floor to get to the damage.

If you think that all these warnings are not essential in your case, then you can start laying without seams, that is, assemble a single integral structure without thresholds.

The technology of laying laminate flooring is not complicated and does not differ much from the usual one. All steps are described in the instructions for your coverage. Let's add just a few details that should not be neglected.

Be sure to consult a professional master whether it is possible to lay the floor in your apartment in this way and how best to do it. We can always help you with this.

Despite the fact that there will be no thresholds, do not forget about expansion joints. Usten should be left up to 10-12 mm, every 10 m of length and width - about 8-10 mm. Without them, your floor will quickly warp.

The laminate web can change its geometry both in length and in width. To make the floor ready for such surprises, some masters believe that it does not hurt to gouge the wall a little (just a few centimeters) along a long strip. Then the floor, under no physical influences, should rest against the wall and rise.

In general, if the unification of the floor touches only two adjacent rooms, for example, a room and a corridor, then there should be no trouble when laying a laminate without thresholds, made in accordance with all the rules.

Recently, it has become a fashionable trend to design floors in apartments and houses without thresholds. On the one hand, this is a plus - the floor plane looks smoother, wider, and the risk of stumbling every time passing from room to room is eliminated. Laying laminate without thresholds, although it seems simple, also has pitfalls, bypassing which, you will get a perfectly beautiful floor.

Required Cautions

1. According to the instructions attached to the material, it is not necessary to mount the coating without seams on an area exceeding 50 m2. The warning is justified, because the coating may swell, this happens, most often, in doorways.

1. It is already strongly not recommended to cover a space with an area of ​​​​more than 120 m2 with a continuous method, since the situation may not be in your favor at any time. Therefore, if possible, still leave technical gaps.
2. Before laying laminate without thresholds, be sure to calculate the height of the door. Adjust it so that the canvas opens and closes freely, and the gap between it and the future coating remains about 1 cm.
3. Before installation, make sure that the humidity in the room does not exceed the permissible limits. Too much moisture in the air will have a bad effect on the material, which may later dry out, deform or even swell.

Note! Installation is carried out on a perfectly flat surface of the prepared base. Moreover, if non-threshold laying of the laminate is planned, the height difference should not exceed 3 mm. Depressions larger than this value should be puttied, the tubercles should be cleaned.

1. If you are laying slabs on a rough wooden plank base, check them carefully. Rotten, deformed elements must be replaced. The laminate itself is laid in the same direction, corresponding to the draft boards of the base.

1. Don't forget the underlay. It will not only additionally insulate the floors and create sound insulation, but also protect the flooring from deformation, extending the life of the coating. As a rule, cork material or polyethylene foam is used. Embossed cardboard can also be used, laying out several layers of it and fastening the sheets with tape. Usually the thickness of the substrate is 2/4 mm.
2. Keep in mind that the base of the dies is made of wood, which means that it tends to expand from moisture that has entered. The instructions attached to the material recommend leaving technical gaps along the walls of 5-10 mm. To perform even masonry, it is good to insert plastic plugs between the wall and the laminate plate. After the work is completed, they are pulled out.
3. Do not use an old high-pile carpet as a rough base, and, moreover, a carpet. Such a substrate will be unstable due to excessive softness. Fiberboard, glued PVC linoleum, plank flooring, ceramic tiles, or just a good screed will work well.

Which installation method is best

If you plan to mount the floor yourself without making thresholds, you need to decide how to fix the elements.

Choose a method

1. Adhesive method. In this case, each next board is attached to the previous one with glue. This method is good in damp and often polluted rooms, because the gaps are sealed, and water and debris do not get into the joints. Moisture-resistant fiberboard is best suited as a basis, then the “floating” floor will not give deformations.

Note! However, since it is more difficult to lay floors in the places of doorways, fitting will take more time. Another drawback is that floors made using the “glue” method can no longer be dismantled. So it is necessary to exclude the possibility of errors.

1. Glueless (lock) method. Increasingly popular, convenient and practical method. The cost of panels equipped with snap-on profiles is slightly higher, but the price is justified by increased reliability and accuracy of fit. Many types of material are made with locks, allowing you to lay the laminate board in any direction, including at an angle.

The good news is that if necessary, the entire floor or part of it can be easily disassembled. The installation itself is much faster than in the case of adhesive masonry.

How to install laminate flooring in doorways

1. The areas under the door can be considered the most difficult. Most often, the threshold is not made between two rooms, or between a corridor and an adjacent room. If possible, lay boards in connected rooms in the same direction. Then the space will visually increase, and the boundaries will be erased. Different directions will indicate separation, everything will look unpresentable.
2. The larger the area you want to lay out, the greater the risk of raising the floor from the expansion awaits you. , pipes, openings, room corners, ledges, a gap is required. With an extensive plane, try to make it 1 / 1.5 cm. Then it will be closed with skirting boards. Skirting strips cannot be fixed to the floor, they are fixed with glue or screws only to the walls.
3. In places of openings of the future door, the fitting is done very carefully. This will take a little more time, you will have to cut recesses in the dies, again, taking into account the indents from the jamb.
4. To maximize the space, it is advisable to lay in the direction away from the window.
5. If you want to minimize the risk of floor deformation, follow all the rules. Do not work in a very damp room and at low temperatures, do not place the boards on rigid structures. It is also desirable to use a material with locking fixation.
6. If the site is raised, you can disassemble it and redo it. But, if you are doing the floor in rooms where high humidity is expected all the time (for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen), adhesive masonry is more suitable.

1. Often the design solution involves a combined floor, and the laminate can be joined with tiles or other flooring within the same room. Such a division of work areas can often be found in kitchens and corridors. The threshold here, of course, is not provided, therefore, a gap of 1-2 cm will have to be correctly repaired.
2. Modern material will come to the rescue - artificial cork, very similar to polyurethane foam. From a pistol, they fill the space with it, then, after solidification, they cut off the excess. The material will not rot, pass water and dust under the floor, but it can shrink and stretch, depending on the behavior of the laminate.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to make your floor beautiful, durable and reliable on your own. It is easy to ignore the ever-interfering thresholds, the main thing is to follow all the rules if possible and take into account the nuances of installation in capricious places.

Watch the video, illustrative examples will help you avoid troubles and undesirable consequences from repairs.

What is the difference between a good repair and a bad one? Thoughtfulness of details. Very good and expensive material can be spoiled by little things. In the case of laminate, this is 100% true. Even such a nuance as a seam in the coating between two rooms, the junction of two laminates that are different in height or in the way of laying. All this requires a thoughtful approach. How to join a laminate, what methods and materials to use and we'll talk further.

The laminate is laid using floating floor technology. To ensure that it does not rise with changes in temperature or humidity, the coating should not have hard fastening points. To compensate for changes in size, a gap of about 1 cm is left around the perimeter of the rooms to the walls. Subsequently, it is closed with a plinth. Skirting boards are attached to the wall, not to the floor.

Even if the same type of laminate is laid in the rooms, for large areas it is better to make a seam in the doorway. It is needed all for the same purposes: so that when the dimensions of the planks increase, the seams do not swell. The seam usually runs under the door. When it's closed, you can't see anything at all. Even when the doors are open, a properly selected docking profile or threshold does not attract attention.

How to connect laminate between rooms

Where to make a laminate joint between rooms? It is most logical to connect the laminate to the laminate so that the seam is under the door leaf. Then, when the door is closed, the joints are not visible. If several doors enter the room, it is desirable to arrange all connections in the same way.

Between the rooms, the laminate is connected using:

• connecting profiles;
• thresholds;
• cork compensator.

The connecting profile and the nut are not the same thing. These are two different types of connectors. The thresholds can be used with any floor covering, but they differ in appearance, as they are usually made of a different material. The connecting profiles are produced by the same companies that make the laminate. They are covered with the same film that is used for laminating the plates. This allows you to choose a connecting strip for a laminate with an exact match in color and pattern (if you're lucky).

Connection profiles

How to join a laminate so that the seam is minimally noticeable? Using laminated joint profiles. They are made of aluminum alloy or MDF, covered with a film that covers the laminate. Connecting profiles for laminate consist of a guide and a decorative strip. The guide can be plastic or metal. It is attached to the floor with glue (plastic) or dowels (metal).

The decorative strip can be metal or MDF. In any case, the material is laminated with a film. This type of molding is produced by the same companies that make laminate. Colors and textures match the laminate. If your company does not produce such strips, you will have to take a sample and try to find it from other manufacturers.

According to the shape of the top bar, the connectors can be straight (in the photo above in the center) or rounded (in the photo on the left). Straight lines are less noticeable, but materials of the same thickness should be joined. Rounded ones can be set at a slight angle, which makes it possible to join laminate of different thicknesses.

Straight butt profiles for joining laminate flooring come in one thickness. They are called direct or connecting. There are options for coatings of different thicknesses, they are called "transitional". They have different shelf heights. It is selected according to the thickness of the coating used.

The width of the bar can also be different. The wider it is, the greater the compensation gap can be made. The minimum width of the bar is 22 mm, the maximum is 44 mm. Perhaps there are more or less, but they are very rare.

How to join laminate with sills

Thresholds for connecting floor coverings are a plank made of wear-resistant material. What distinguishes them from connecting profiles is that it is only a bar. It just closes the gap at the top.

Make sills from the following materials:

• Metals and their alloys. Most often these are aluminum alloys and brass. Coloring usually imitates one of the metals - brass, bronze, aluminum, etc. They can be shiny, matte, with a satin finish (semi-gloss), etc. There are options laminated with wood-like film, but they must be selected according to the color of the coating.
• Made of wear-resistant plastic. There are many planks in brown tones, there are colored ones, with imitation of wood.
• Wooden. Sold unpainted, you can try to choose the color yourself.

In order for the sills to look normal and not “scratch” the eyes, they are selected to match one of the mating coatings. Before joining the laminate, take samples of your coatings and go in search of the sills. Neither by eye nor by photo you will understand which of the options will be optimal. Only by attaching to a specific material can you choose.

Without "trying on" you will not understand which one is better.

According to the type of fastening, the sills are hidden or open-mounted. Open mounting - with through holes in the bar into which fasteners are installed. Fasteners - self-tapping screws. It is desirable to select their color to match the color of the nut, and the shape of the cap should be conical and straight on top. If there is no fasteners in the kit, it is better to take a bar or a piece of it with a hole to the store with you. There you can "try on" different screws and choose the best option.

One of the sills is a gap-closing profile. And all

Flush-mounted thresholds are usually made of metal. More often made of aluminum and brass, you can find stainless steel (at the price of an airplane wing). It is better if the aluminum is anodized - it does not change color longer. Aluminum can be laminated with a woodgrain film, which increases the chances of making the joint less noticeable. Fasteners are included with the strap. It must have a certain shape of the cap - so that they go into the groove.

Cork expansion joints

If you do not like the sills, you can put a cork in the seam. There are special cork compensators. They are usually used when laying parquet. In width, they can be 7-12 mm, in height - 15, 18, 20 and 22 mm. Cork strips are painted and polished. Cork compensators are sold in pieces of 90 cm, 120 cm. You can also find strips 3 m long.

Cork compensators are laid when one of the coatings has already been laid, and the second will be mounted. This is convenient if the doors open onto the corridor, and two coverings from different laminates are connected, moreover, with different laying directions.

To install a cork compensator, you will need wood glue and silicone sealant (preferably transparent, it is almost imperceptible). We apply glue on the floor in a zigzag or two parallel strips, install a strip of cork and press it. We take silicone, bend the cork, coat the joint with the laminate, return the compensator to its place, press it.

When the second coating reaches the joint, the laminate cut must be smeared with silicone - this will protect against moisture and debris. Be sure to remove excess silicone immediately, otherwise they can then be torn off the cork only by damaging the surface. So, once again: we glue the bottom of the cork strip with universal glue, which glues wood and concrete (if you have concrete), and glue the sides with a sealant to the cuts of the flooring.

Installation of thresholds in the seam of the laminate

Read the installation instructions before making a joint between a laminate and a laminate threshold. It is usually included in the package. There may be some nuances, but in general, the order is the same. We will describe the general sequence of actions.

Connecting laminate flooring between rooms with a flush-mounted threshold

When installing a flush-mounted threshold, the bar is cut to the desired length. Holes are drilled in the seam, in the middle between the two coatings. Dowel plugs are installed in them. The dowel heads are inserted into the groove on the plank and distributed along the plank so that they are opposite the holes. It is more convenient to press the bar to one of the door jambs, turn it sideways, set the screws in this position.

If there is a self-adhesive layer on the bar, the protective film is removed. If there is no such layer, a thin strip of silicone sealant is applied to the edges. It is better to choose a sealant that, after drying, remains elastic, and not hard. Such a seal will not collapse from periodic loads (when someone steps on the threshold).

Then we turn the bar with the fasteners installed, and carefully, from top to bottom, lower it into the holes. If the fasteners are set incorrectly, an assistant will be required. One person holds the bar, the second adjusts the position of the screws. When all the screws are in the holes, we take a rubber mallet or a hammer and a piece of wood and, with their help, seat the threshold in place.

Docking laminate with laminate between rooms with an open-mounted threshold

You can close the joint of the laminate with an ordinary threshold. First of all, we measure the desired length of the bar, cut it off with a hacksaw. We clear the junction of debris. We apply the threshold as it will lie. Using a pencil or marker, we put marks on the floor through the holes for installing fasteners. We hold the pencil strictly perpendicular. Even a slight deviation can bring installation problems.

We take a drill, insert a drill. Diameter - 1 mm less than the diameter of the fastener. We drill holes in each of the marks. The drill, again, is vertical.

We install plastic dowel plugs into the holes, hammer them so that they are flush with the floor. Apply a layer of silicone sealant on the sides of the nut strip. Turn the plank over and put it in place. It must be lowered from top to bottom. Lateral movements are undesirable due to the possibility of smearing silicone. We take the screws, insert them from above, tighten them.

If during installation silicone squeezed out from under the bar, immediately take a damp cloth and wipe everything without residue. As long as it has not polymerized, it is removed without problems. After a few minutes, it can be difficult to achieve a clean surface.

Now you know how to join a laminate with the help of thresholds. It's not all that difficult.

Laying laminate without thresholds throughout the apartment

Not everyone likes laminate joints, no matter how you arrange them. In small apartments, this coating can be laid with a solid carpet. But the maximum length without thresholds is 10 meters, and the width is 8 meters. Different manufacturers may have differences in the maximum allowable laying without connecting seams, but not by much.

Even if this is possible in your apartment, it is not very convenient if you need to repair the laminate. The fact is that the laminate can be deformed, rubbed, etc. When laying with joints, it is easier to get to the desired fragment and replace it. If there are no joints throughout the apartment, for any replacement you will have to sort through everything from the very end. Very uncomfortable, though not fatal.

Still, laying laminate without joints throughout the apartment requires a thoughtful development of a laying plan. After all, there are no joints, you have to think which of the schemes will be the most convenient.

Laying laminate without thresholds: all the nuances of installation

Recently, it has become a fashionable trend to design floors in apartments and houses without thresholds. On the one hand, this is a plus - the floor plane looks smoother, wider, and the risk of stumbling every time passing from room to room is eliminated. Laying laminate without thresholds, although it seems simple, also has pitfalls, bypassing which, you will get a perfectly beautiful floor.

perfect beautiful floor.

perfect beautiful floor.

Beautiful floors: a variety of choices” href=”http://shkolapola.ru/ustroystvo/vybiraem/1147-krasivye-poly”>perfectly beautiful floor.

Note! Installation is carried out on a perfectly flat surface of the prepared base. Moreover, if non-threshold laying of the laminate is planned, the height difference should not exceed 3 mm. Depressions larger than this value should be puttied, the tubercles should be cleaned.

If you are laying slabs on a rough wooden plank base, check them carefully. Rotten, deformed elements must be replaced. The laminate itself is laid in the same direction, corresponding to the draft boards of the base.

finish flooring, make sure that the humidity in the room does not exceed the permissible limits. Too much moisture in the air will have a bad effect on the material, which may later dry out, deform or even swell.

Note! Installation is carried out on a perfectly flat surface of the prepared base. Moreover, if non-threshold laying of the laminate is planned, the height difference should not exceed 3 mm. Depressions larger than this value should be puttied, the tubercles should be cleaned.

If you are laying slabs on a rough wooden plank base, check them carefully. Rotten, deformed elements must be replaced. The laminate itself is laid in the same direction, corresponding to the draft boards of the base.

Finishing the floor with various materials in the conditions of the modern world” href=”http://shkolapola.ru/ustroystvo/vybiraem/1301-pokrytie-pola”>finishing the floor, make sure that the humidity in the room does not exceed the permissible limits. Too much moisture in the air will have a bad effect on the material, which may later dry out, deform or even swell.

Note! Installation is carried out on a perfectly flat surface of the prepared base. Moreover, if non-threshold laying of the laminate is planned, the height difference should not exceed 3 mm. Depressions larger than this value should be puttied, the tubercles should be cleaned.

If you are laying slabs on a rough wooden plank base, check them carefully. Rotten, deformed elements must be replaced. The laminate itself is laid in the same direction, corresponding to the draft boards of the base.

Note! However, since it is more difficult to lay floors in the places of doorways, fitting will take more time. Another drawback is that floors made using the “glue” method can no longer be dismantled. So it is necessary to exclude the possibility of errors.

Locking methods of installation of the coating.

Glueless (lock) method. Increasingly popular, convenient and practical method. The cost of panels equipped with snap-on profiles is slightly higher, but the price is justified by increased reliability and accuracy of fit. Many types of material are made with locks, allowing you to lay the laminate board in any direction, including at an angle.

The good news is that if necessary, the entire floor or part of it can be easily disassembled. The installation itself is much faster than in the case of adhesive masonry.

How to install laminate flooring in doorways

Lay the laminate in the doorway in one direction.

The areas under the door can be considered the most difficult. Most often, the threshold is not made between two rooms, or between a corridor and an adjacent room. If possible, lay boards in connected rooms in the same direction. Then the space will visually increase, and the boundaries will be erased. Different directions will indicate separation, everything will look unpresentable.

The larger the area you want to lay out, the greater the risk of raising the floor from the expansion awaits you.

Between laminate and walls. pipes, openings, room corners, ledges, a gap is required. With an extensive plane, try to make it 1 / 1.5 cm. Then it will be closed with skirting boards. Skirting strips cannot be fixed to the floor, they are fixed with glue or screws only to the walls.

In places of openings of the future door, the fitting is done very carefully. This will take a little more time, you will have to cut recesses in the dies, again, taking into account the indents from the jamb.

To maximize the space, it is advisable to lay in the direction away from the window.

If you want to minimize the risk of floor deformation, follow all the rules. Do not work in a very damp room and at low temperatures, do not place the boards on rigid structures. It is also desirable to use a material with locking fixation.

If the site is raised, you can disassemble it and redo it. But, if you are doing the floor in rooms where high humidity is expected all the time (for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen), adhesive masonry is more suitable.

Between laminate and walls. pipes, openings, room corners, ledges, a gap is required. With an extensive plane, try to make it 1 / 1.5 cm. Then it will be closed with skirting boards. Skirting strips cannot be fixed to the floor, they are fixed with glue or screws only to the walls.

In places of openings of the future door, the fitting is done very carefully. This will take a little more time, you will have to cut recesses in the dies, again, taking into account the indents from the jamb.

To maximize the space, it is advisable to lay in the direction away from the window.

If you want to minimize the risk of floor deformation, follow all the rules. Do not work in a very damp room and at low temperatures, do not place the boards on rigid structures. It is also desirable to use a material with locking fixation.

If the site is raised, you can disassemble it and redo it. But, if you are doing the floor in rooms where high humidity is expected all the time (for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen), adhesive masonry is more suitable.

Laminate on the wall: and here this product has found its application” href=”http://shkolapola.ru/lamynat/1372-laminat-na-stenu”>Between laminate and walls. pipes, openings, room corners, ledges, a gap is required. With an extensive plane, try to make it 1 / 1.5 cm. Then it will be closed with skirting boards. Skirting strips cannot be fixed to the floor, they are fixed with glue or screws only to the walls.

In places of openings of the future door, the fitting is done very carefully. This will take a little more time, you will have to cut recesses in the dies, again, taking into account the indents from the jamb.

To maximize the space, it is advisable to lay in the direction away from the window.

If you want to minimize the risk of floor deformation, follow all the rules. Do not work in a very damp room and at low temperatures, do not place the boards on rigid structures. It is also desirable to use a material with locking fixation.

If the site is raised, you can disassemble it and redo it. But, if you are doing the floor in rooms where high humidity is expected all the time (for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen), adhesive masonry is more suitable.

Laying laminate flooring without seams in doorways

Parquet or vinyl tile, laid in a single sheet throughout the apartment, looks impressive and expensive. Laying laminate without thresholds, used to create a solid floor, is a very difficult task. You will need high-quality premium finishing materials, a professional stacker with a solid work experience and knowledge of many nuances.

Non-threshold laminate flooring: what is it

Installation of a multi-layer flooring in several rooms with a single sheet, without gaps or cuts in doorways (regardless of their width), is called “laying without thresholds”. The purpose of this technology is decorative, it is used in the design of apartments or houses to create the effect of a single space, without highlighting special zones.

Let's talk about a known fact. no multi-layer coating manufacturer recommends continuous installation of a finishing flooring material in several rooms. This is primarily due to the physical parameters of the laminated parquet. Being a derivative of wood, it is characterized by such a property as a change in linear dimensions with temperature and humidity changes.

Let's give an example for a better understanding of the processes. In the rainy autumn period, the humidity index of the air rises. Since the laminate has a certain water absorption index (from 4 to 18% depending on the density and quality of the board), it gradually expands by these same percentages in a linear expression. Moreover, along the board increases more than across. The gaps left along the perimeter with a cross section of 0.8-1 cm make it possible to compensate for this expansion, the floor remains smooth and solid, without swollen and creaking areas.

The formation of gaps between the planks due to violation of the laying rules.

In winter, at the height of the heating period, we observe the opposite reaction. The laminate, relatively speaking, dries out, slightly decreases in size due to a decrease in the relative humidity of the air. If the laying was done in violation of the technology, then gaps appear between the planks, the locks stretch and weaken, ceasing to perform their functions.

One of the conditions for proper installation is the formation of peculiar expansion joints that cut off a certain part of the canvas from the rest of the floor. According to the instructions, the maximum area for continuous assembly should not exceed 48-100 m 2. For example, for the products of Belgian and German factories, the maximum allowable parameters of a solid floor are 10x10 m. This means that every ten running meters in width and length, it is necessary to leave a gap compensating for seasonal fluctuations in the geometric dimensions of the laminate. For floor coverings produced by Russian factories, these parameters are much smaller - no more than 8x6 m.

How to find out the exact dimensions of the area within which it is allowed to lay a laminate without thresholds throughout a studio-type apartment or with wide arched openings? In the instructions that are printed on the insert for each pack of flooring, you will find the entire package of required information, including the maximum allowable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe web, the moisture content of the base, and the like.

Laying laminate without thresholds in the openings.

Let's summarize. manufacturers are against such a phenomenon as laying laminate without thresholds. This is due to the risk of damage to the floor due to seasonal fluctuations in size, the appearance of blisters, creaks, gaps and other defects. However, professional craftsmen carefully calculate the possibilities and quite successfully implement seamless flooring technology.

How is non-threshold installation of laminate

The success of the event depends primarily on the correct preparation of the foundation. The surface must be perfectly smooth, durable and dry. Any differences, even acceptable ones, should be leveled out altogether. For this, thin-layer self-leveling floors on a gypsum or gypsum-cement basis, a dry prefabricated screed made of chipboard, OSB and others are used. On a concrete or anhydride screed, you can also use a mosaic grinder with fine-grained nozzles, which will provide a full “zeroing out” of the entire plane.

Laminate, laid in the direction of movement in the room.

To lay the coating without gaps in the doorways as evenly and reliably as possible, use the deck scheme, in which each subsequent row is shifted by 1/3 of the length of the lamella. The best layout option is in the direction of travel, as this minimizes the wear of the finishing material at the joints. The assembly of the floor begins with the largest room, from the far corner, gradually bringing it to the door area.

Advice! Do not be too lazy to first draw a plan of an apartment or house on a piece of paper and plan the laying schematically, keeping to the scale. This will greatly facilitate the work and help to avoid a large amount of waste.

Laying laminate in the doorway is carried out according to the standard scheme. The floor is brought out to the box, close to the trim. Experts recommend sawing the fittings in order to bring the floor bar under them to the wall. Further, several long, solid planks are placed in the center, trimmed at the ends are added. It is necessary to leave gaps near the walls.

If the installation is carried out across the doorway, then at the entrance the cut lamellas should be laid as standard, with locking to the main leaf. Sealing gels can be used to seal joints.

To make the job easier and improve the quality of the grip, get a cover with special profile locks, like Uniclick. The shape of the connection allows adjacent strips to be snapped in at an angle, vertically attached or horizontally knocked down.

Advantages and disadvantages of laying laminate without a threshold

Which installation method is better - with gaps in the doorways or without? Of course, the first one. But if the customer categorically does not like the threshold profiles, or the developed design project requires it, then you can find good craftsmen who can qualitatively make a non-threshold laminate installation.

Consider the pros and cons of such a solution.

Rise in the cost of laying due to the special complexity of the work

Let us separately note this fact. An inexperienced master can try to compensate for the possible expansion of the floor by increasing the expansion gaps around the perimeter. That is, to make them not 1 cm wide, but more, up to 2.5 cm. This is absolutely impossible to do, as it will lead to the formation of cracks.

Thus, the non-threshold technology has much more disadvantages than advantages. In addition, manufacturers of floor profiles offer a huge range of decorative joints with a wood or stone surface, with various fastening systems:

• with T-shaped internal fixators,
• adhesive based,
• with an additional bar that hides the hardware
• much more.

There are even flexible plastic thresholds that can be used to create interesting joint shapes, including rounded or complex geometries.

Flexible threshold for creating connections of complex shapes.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send a detailed description of the work to be done in the form below and you will receive offers with prices from private craftsmen, repair teams and companies by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Important points for laying laminate flooring on your own

Interested in DIY laminate flooring? Step-by-step instructions, videos from the masters and useful tips from experts will help you quickly and easily cope with this task. There is an opinion that laying laminate is a very simple process, and everyone can handle it. This is really not very difficult, but you should carefully prepare for the work, having studied the theoretical component of the process, preparing the necessary tools, etc.

In general, the choice of materials for flooring should be approached very carefully. The fact is that there are differences not only in appearance, but also in operational characteristics. Today one of the most popular types of flooring materials is laminate.

At its core, the laminate imitates a parquet board. This type of coating consists of a fiberboard impregnated with special compounds and a laminated protective film. This combination allows manufacturers to make material with good appearance and excellent performance.

A pattern is applied to a special film that looks like the texture of natural wood. The material is resistant to mechanical damage and practically does not burn. Laying a laminate will decorate the interior of the room, because such flooring gives your home a rich look. It remains only to deal with the laying technology, so as not to overpay for the work of the masters.

Types of lock connections

All laminated panel options that exist today are fastened using one of three available methods:

Glue. This method is based on the "thorn-groove" system. Such a laminate is laid in the same way as a regular parquet board.

Click. In this case, the functions of the spikes are performed by flat hooks. They must be inserted into the grooves equipped with a special platform for engagement with this element. All this can be done at an angle of 30 degrees.

Lock. A lock of this kind in appearance resembles a spike with a fixing comb, all this is inserted into the milled groove of the adjacent laminate board.

Each option has its positive and negative sides. So, the adhesive type of fastening allows for high strength of the seams, but due to the use of glue, the structure will be non-separable, and this complicates the process of replacing a damaged panel or completely dismantling the coating.

Laminate "Lock" is installed by driving the tongue into the groove until the structure sits tightly. A mallet or a steel hammer is used to seal the panels. In order not to damage the material at the same time, a small piece of timber or a small wooden block is initially substituted to the end. The disadvantage of this method is that the combs will be erased under load, and further cracks may form on the coating.

The Click technology is notable for its simplicity, and it is possible to lay the laminate in this way without outside help. You can independently assemble and disassemble the structure 5-6 times. After connecting the grooves and bayonets, the sections of the joints must be pressed to the floor so that the hook enters the hook with the groove, this is accompanied by a click. If the lamellas are securely fixed, they will not diverge even under high loads in operation, and the coating web will remain intact.

It should be borne in mind that regardless of the type of lock used, the junctions are the weakest areas of the coating. And in order for the laminate to serve for a long time, experts advise treating all connections with special hermetic compounds.

Helpful styling tips

The main advice - laying the laminate should be done only on a pre-prepared floor base. If the screed is not dry before installing the panels, the life of the coating will be short. When the base is too wet, the lamellas are deformed, even if the most expensive and high-quality materials are used.

Laminate flooring can be laid on almost any substrate, including hardwood flooring, hardboard, chipboard, linoleum, or old parquet. But it is extremely important that the coating is hard, even and dry. If the floor in your apartment is not even, then you will have to work on solving this problem. Special leveling compounds are sold on the market, which will help prepare the floor for laying.

When the floor is ready, it remains only to lay the laminate, it will not take much time, because the panels in their features resemble a simple constructor. Each element of the coating can be attached to another, and at the same time it does not need to be fixed at the level of the subfloor.

To prevent various gaps and inconsistencies from appearing, it is important that the surface for laying the laminate is flat. Then the panels will be installed monolithically and in the same plane. Of course, it is very difficult to make a perfectly flat floor, so you should be guided by the standards that say that for 1 meter of coverage, the height difference should be no more than 2 millimeters. The most popular method of leveling the base is pouring a special compound (liquid floor) or using a concrete screed. In this case, the substrate is a mandatory element. Expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene will provide the necessary sound and waterproofing, as well as smooth out small irregularities in the base.

Panel laying options

There is one important piece of advice here, when laying laminate panels, experts recommend adhering to the principle that it is necessary to place the lamellas parallel to the direction of light. In this case, the light that falls from the window onto the floor will not form shadows on the seams, and the surface will look perfectly even.

Laying along the line of light

This option for laying panels is the most popular. It is also called classic, the work is done simply, and you can handle it yourself. The advantages also include the fact that you need a few boards, everything fits quickly enough and at the same time the flooring looks very beautiful.

In this case, the slats must be installed parallel to the longest wall of the room. Then, when light enters from the window, the seams between the slats will be invisible, this method eliminates the appearance of a shadow. Arrangement along the line of light creates the effect of a complete lack of joints, and the floor looks like it was laid using one, large panel.

This option is used in rooms where windows are installed along a short wall. But if you have a corner room in the house, and it is illuminated from two sides at once, then there will be no effect of a perfectly even coating, because a shadow will appear at the joints.

It is worth considering that most experts call this particular method ideal for laying laminate. And this position is quite justified. Even with the help of inexpensive laminate panels, you can make the interior that you dreamed about.

Installation across the line of light

When using this method, the slats are installed across the room or perpendicular to the longest wall of the room. Compared to the previous version, this one is considered less professional.

However, this method has its own important advantages. Thanks to the installation across the line of light, even a narrow and long room will become visually wider. If we talk about the corridor, then this is the best way to lay. But it is worth considering that installation across the line of light is more complicated, you will have to spend a lot of time cutting panels.

Diagonal styling

A fairly popular option is the laying of the laminate diagonally. The pros and cons of this installation method suggest that this is a good solution for interior decoration, but cutting boards can cause problems. The diagonal method of laying laminate focuses attention on the corner of the room. The alternation of light and dark tones allows you to make the flooring expressive. In the corner of the room, you can install a variety of compositions, which will further emphasize the style of the interior.

Diagonal styling has many advantages:

• Laminate laid in this way allows you to visually expand the room, and attention is paid to the corner part. Thanks to this, it seems that the corners of the room are located far from each other, and the room seems more spacious. You can also create an optimal interior with the help of a choice of colors. Light colors will visually enlarge the room, and dark colors will make the floor more expressive in the way of alternation;
• Laying panels diagonally is possible in narrow rooms and rooms with a non-standard layout. In this case, the plates will not focus all attention on the walls, as with other laying methods;
• The whole emphasis is on the corner part of the room, where you can place an aquarium, a fireplace or a beautiful cabinet to improve the interior;
• When using this method, the laminate in all rooms can be placed in the same way, it does not wake up any seams or thresholds;
• It is possible to lay the laminate diagonally with your own hands. Video from the masters will help to study all the features and subtleties of the process, and then perform the work without the help of specialists;
• A wide range of shades of lamellas will allow you to choose the material for any style of interior;

• The material can withstand high loads, so it can be mounted not only in the living room, but also in the kitchen, living room and office;
• Laying diagonally is a method of installation that will make the flooring original and beautiful;
• With this method of installation, the joints and irregularities will be almost invisible.

Laminate laying. Step-by-step instruction

Regardless of the panels used and how they are laid, when performing work, one must adhere to the universal step-by-step instructions. The whole process consists of several steps, and each of them has its own nuances.

Instrument preparation

In order not to constantly run to the store or to the pantry, in search of the necessary tools and materials, you need to prepare everything in advance. So, for laying panels you will need:

Laminate. It is necessary to accurately calculate the amount of material so that it is not too much or too little.

Substrate. It will make the structure more durable, and the base more even.

Construction roll. Required for panel measurements.

Jigsaw and hacksaw. These tools are necessary in order to cut the panels to the required dimensions.

A block or small board. This element is necessary for padding.

Expanding wedges.

A simple pencil and ruler.

Material calculation

If you buy too few panels, then in the midst of the work process you will have to run to the store and buy more material. If there is too much laminate, then it will be a waste of money. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the exact amount. An important factor here is the way the flooring is laid.

The traditional installation option is considered the most economical. To make calculations, you need to find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room where the renovation is being done. This data is in the housing documentation, or the area can be found by multiplying the width by the length. To the result obtained, it is worth adding a margin of 10% percent. So, if the area of ​​​​your room is 20 "squares", then you need to buy a laminate for 22.

This margin will compensate for the cost of the material when it is cut to fit the features of the room. When using a more costly installation method - diagonal, you need to buy panels with a margin of 20%.

Floor preparation

As already mentioned, laminate flooring can be laid on almost any substrate, but only if you have done the right preparation. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the following points:

The concrete floor must be carefully examined, and all its irregularities, cracks and other defects should be treated with cement mortar. If you need to more significantly level the floor, then you should use a screed or special mixtures.

The same requirements apply to the wooden floor. Damaged, warped and rotten floor elements must be replaced. All loose boards should be fixed using self-tapping screws. If there are small irregularities, then you can use a grinder.

Almost ideally, you can level the old floor by staggering plywood or OSB. This method is also used when it is necessary to slightly raise the level of the floor. For laying you will need a wooden frame and insulation.

You can also lay the lamellas on old flooring in the form of linoleum, tiles or parquet. But this should be done only if the old coating is even, not damaged and firmly fixed.

We make a substrate

The underlay in this type of flooring is a multifunctional element, it prevents the penetration of noise, provides waterproofing and acts as a shock absorber. Before laying the lamellas, the concrete coating must be lined with waterproofing from special polyethylene foam, polystyrene can also be used. All canvases are mounted with an overlap in increments of 20 centimeters, while it is necessary to arrange laps on the walls of 10-15 centimeters.

This layer should be 3 mm thick. When the base of the floor is made using this type of screed, it is not necessary to lay the insulation, because this layer is already in the screed itself.

You can also do without a vapor barrier layer on a wooden base. But soundproofing is mandatory, for this a special substrate based on cork wood or foamed polypropylene is used, this layer should reach about 2 millimeters in thickness.

When arranging this type of substrate, strips of material are laid from the window to the entrance, the joints are fixed with simple but reliable construction tape. If you have linoleum or ceramic tiles installed on your floor, then vapor barrier is not needed, laminate panels should be mounted directly on the base.

Installation of lamellas

When installing laminate boards, they usually use the traditional method (direct), it is considered the most simple and economical. It is worth considering that all actions for the installation of panels must be carried out in the daytime, at an air temperature of 15-30 degrees, and low humidity.

The first row of slats begins to be installed completely, starting from the far corner of the room. Gradually, the strip is directed to the wall and wedged with spacers on three sides. The wedges will make the necessary gaps of 15 millimeters, which will compensate for linear expansions. The expansion joint must be made around the entire perimeter of the room. You should not worry about the fact that it will spoil the appearance of the coating, the seam will hide under the plinth.

When installing panels in a doorway, this gap must be made not so large. In the future, it will also be invisible, it will be completely covered by the door trim. If this element is not taken into account, then the lamellas may be deformed due to high humidity or heating.

The second and other rows of slats are installed in the end lock of the previous board, and mounted on the floor. Wedges should be hammered along the ends. In order for the whole structure to run off, each subsequent row should be laid out with an extra part of the previous one, this will also save materials.

If you need to frame the risers, then the lamellas falling on them should be filed a little with a hacksaw. It’s good if there is just a junction of boards near the riser, in which case it will be easier to make a hole. In the case when you have to cut the entire panel, a couple of holes must be made in advance at the intended point. Next, you need to cut the panel, while you should focus on the hole. In this case, the cut line should be located right in the middle. Glue is used to fix such panels.

The end strip can be cut to individual dimensions. To do this, turn the panels over and attach them to the wall with the end side. The cut line must be drawn with a marker or pencil, focusing on the last lamella. To install the last panel, you need a special lever with a hook. If there is no such tool, you can use a crowbar. After completing the procedure, you must carefully remove the wedges.

Installation of decorative thresholds and skirting boards

Laying laminate without thresholds throughout the apartment is an excellent solution that will allow you to create a single sheet of coating, in other cases you cannot do without thresholds. Aluminum thresholds are used to join the laminate and tiles. The rounded surface of such elements creates a small height difference. For the installation of such elements, holes are made along the edges of both coatings every 100 millimeters, into which dowels are hammered. Next, a threshold is applied, the nails are distributed over the holes and fixed with a hammer.

In combination with laminate, plastic and wooden skirting boards look great. You can also use a frame with MDF. In order for the lamellas to be evenly pressed to the floor, it is advised to install the skirting boards on special clamps. Begin the installation of such elements from the corner of the room, moving clockwise. After installing the skirting boards, it remains only to put special plugs and connections.

If you used the locking option for laying laminate, then such a floor covering can be actively exploited immediately after the work is done. With the adhesive method, it is necessary to leave the floor for a certain time to dry (the exact period is indicated on the packaging or in the instructions).

Nikita Shelikhov, 48, Yaroslavl

We have a very old parquet in our room, even the resin has already crawled up, with the help of which materials were once fixed. There were no questions about the functionality and reliability of the parquet, but outwardly it looked terrible. At first, I thought about just sanding and varnishing it, but then I decided to make a new flooring from laminate, and leave the parquet as a reliable base under it. And I think I made the right decision. It was inexpensive, I took a simple laminate, and I did everything myself.

Evgeny Tolkovoy, 33 years old, Khimki

I decided to install laminate in the apartment. I already have experience in laying such material, I helped my friend with the installation, but after looking at different options on the Internet, I decided to use the diagonal laying method. At first, there were some doubts about whether I could handle styling, because it was different from the standard method. But in fact, everything is not so scary, and I am completely satisfied with the result, the floor looks very beautiful. The only disadvantage of diagonal mounting of panels is the greater consumption of laminate.

Andrey Tchaikovsky, 37 years old, St. Petersburg

I try to do everything around the house on my own. And this is not only because of the economy, I love to learn something new and take pride in everything that I have done with my own hands. So the time has come to install laminate in a large room. To be honest, I thought it would be much more difficult. In fact, to prepare for the process, it was enough for me to read this article and watch several videos. Working with laminate is not at all difficult, so it makes no sense to invite masters for this.