Floorboard laying. Laying a floorboard: step by step instructions and tips for choosing a material The best way to lay a floorboard
The floorboard has been used in construction for a long time. It is used not only in private houses, but also in apartments. It is equipped with milling, which allows you to securely connect the products to each other. Sometimes laying the floor causes certain difficulties, however, they can be avoided if all technological rules are followed.
Advantages and disadvantages of a floorboard
The popularity of floorboards is due to the fact that they have a number of advantages. These include:
- service life - if you regularly care for the floor surface, it will last several decades;
- environmental safety - all slats are made from natural material;
- anti-allergic and antihistamine properties that will be preserved if the surface is not varnished;
- strength - with proper installation, the floor from the boards can cope with serious loads;
- low thermal conductivity, due to which the floors retain their temperature for a long time;
- cheapness - the cost of a floorboard is much less than the price of a laminate or floor parquet.
Laying a floorboard will help save a lot
This material also has its drawbacks, but there are not so many of them:
- rots - wooden products begin to deteriorate from prolonged exposure to moisture;
- wears out quickly - the problem arises when the floor surface is not periodically varnished;
- bad soundproofing.
Main characteristics
Most often, floorboards are made from coniferous trees: cedar, spruce, larch, pine. Expensive products are made of beech, oak, ash. However, not everyone recommends using them for laying the floor, as installation is complicated due to their high density.
During installation, a floorboard with a thickness of 1.5 to 4.5 cm is used. Their average width is 5–7 cm, and their length is 100–500 cm. The hardness of the material is determined using the Brinell method and is about 7.
This indicator is quite high and therefore the boards can cope with any load.
There are several classes of material that differ in their quality. Top-class products have a beautiful pattern, smooth surface and high strength. They should be used in rooms with high levels of humidity:
- saunas;
- bathrooms;
Boards of the second and third grade also have a pronounced pattern, but are much cheaper.
The best way to install floorboard
Laying on logs
To understand how to properly mount the floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of this process. The technology of laying the floorboard on the logs consists of several stages.
Fixing lags
First you need to take care of protecting the boards from moisture: a waterproofing layer is made from roofing material and mastic. The roofing material is laid on the mastic right next to the wall, after which you can put logs. For their fixation, staples, dowels, self-tapping screws are used.
Wooden bars must meet the following requirements:
- Their horizontal surfaces must be in the same plane.
- Aligning the bar, it is cut a little, special linings are placed under the base.
- The distance between the lags should not exceed 55 cm. However, it can be slightly increased by using thick floorboards.
- Lags must be laid in such a way that they lie perpendicular to the floorboard.
Fastening boards
During the installation of the floor on the logs, the planks are fixed at a distance of 2-4 cm from the ceiling.
This is done due to the fact that over time the size of the products changes under the influence of temperature changes. When laying the floorboard on the logs, the following nuances must be taken into account:
- If they are fastened with self-tapping screws, then their length should be several times the thickness of the planks.
- To install floorboards with a thickness of 30–40 mm, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of about 80 mm.
- Narrow planks need to be fixed with one self-tapping screw or nail located in the center.
- Fixation of wider products occurs using several fasteners.
- Before screwing in the screws in the bar, you need to pre-drill a hole.
Having fixed the first floorboard, you should proceed with the installation of the second. It is placed side by side and shifted to shift the groove with the spike. Sometimes the spike does not immediately enter the groove and you have to use a mallet. After that, the bar is fixed with screws.
The last board on the floor is laid after measuring the distance from the wall to the penultimate floorboard. This is done to prepare a bar of the required width.
After all the planks have been laid, you need to perform the following steps:
- Check the floor for unevenness and eliminate them with scraping.
- Cover the surface with a thin layer of varnish, so you can identify areas that have not been sanded.
- Install plinth.
- Cover the floor with paint, oil, wax - they will protect its surface and give it respectability.
Laying on plywood
Laying the floorboard on plywood is used if it is not possible to use logs. Quite often, the method is used in rooms with low ceilings and concrete floors. The flooring of boards is carried out in several stages.
Surface preparation
First, using a moisture meter, the surface moisture is checked, which should not exceed 3-4%.
In the absence of a special device, you can use folk methods. We put a small piece of cellophane on the floor and attach it with tape. With increased humidity, water drops will begin to appear on it during the day.
If the concrete screed turned out to be dry, then it is coated with a primer in two layers, after which a film is placed on top. It will protect the plywood from moisture coming from the concrete.
Installation
Moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of about 20 mm is used as a substrate. It is cut into several pieces with a width of not more than 400 mm and placed on the floor. The distance between walls and plywood sheets should be 10–15 mm. The material is attached to concrete with dowels, screws. At the same time, their heads must be drowned, the surface must be perfectly flat.
Polyurethane and epoxy resins are used to fix short slats.
The boards are more authentically fastened with a special glue made on the basis of these resins. When using planks made of beech and other exotic woods, do not use water-soluble adhesives.
The process of connecting the boards to each other is the same as when they are attached to the logs.
Many people for laying floorboards turn to special organizations for help. However, doing the laying of the floorboard with your own hands is not so difficult. To understand how to lay boards, you need to carefully study the features of their installation.
A very important step in home improvement is the selection of a suitable floor covering and its correct installation. One of the most preferred options is wood flooring. Wood is an environmentally friendly, breathable material with excellent performance and properties. With the proper knowledge, you can cope with the installation of such a coating with your own hands.
Choose the right wood for your decking. At this stage, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region, the level of planned surface loads, the features of the operation of the premises and, of course, your financial capabilities.
In small residential areas, softwood flooring is best. Such material is sold at a relatively affordable cost, differing, at the same time, in a sufficiently high strength and durability.
Of the representatives of the middle and higher price range, give preference to oak. Aspen wood is also used for arranging the floor. This material is especially well suited for flooring in children's rooms, as well as in bedrooms.
For independent flooring in residential premises, only dry wood can be used. The problem with wet boards is that they shrink in size as they dry, causing ugly and completely unnecessary cracks to appear in the coating.
When buying a material, make sure that it does not have any noticeable defects such as splits, third-party stains, cracks, etc. Do not buy such wood even with a good discount.
Pre-calculate to determine the required amount of material. To do this, you just need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises. Buy the material itself with a 10-15 percent margin.
For flooring, it is recommended to use a board with a length of 200 cm or more. It is highly desirable that all the boards offered to you be included in one batch. So you can be sure that all the purchased material was manufactured and processed under equal conditions. Consequently, the texture, color and other external characteristics of the boards will be approximately the same.
Flooring is best done using edged and tongue-and-groove boards. Such material does not require additional grinding, which will allow you to significantly save time on installation work.
Wood flooring can be made using several different materials, namely:
- solid boards;
- solid parquet board;
- glued parquet board. It has the same appearance and is practically not inferior in terms of performance to a parquet board made of solid wood, but it costs less;
- parquet.
Preparing for flooring
The flooring is done in two layers. First, the foundation is laid, then the wood itself.
There are two main ways to install the flooring: laying on the ground on logs and on floor beams. When choosing the appropriate method, consider the characteristics of a particular room and your personal preferences.
Before installation, carefully treat all wooden elements with antifungal and fire-retardant impregnations.
The base of the erected floor must be waterproofed. For moisture insulation it is convenient to use penofol or polyethylene. Penofol simultaneously provides high-quality hydro and noise insulation properties, therefore it is more preferable.
Base mounting
The functions of the base for independent flooring can be performed by logs, plywood and concrete. Familiarize yourself with the features of the methods and choose the most suitable for your case.
Foundation on logs
Fastening the flooring to the logs is the most popular option for arranging the floor. This design allows you to easily and effectively hide the unevenness of the floor and without any problems to lay various communications under the base.
The base is assembled from a 10x5 cm timber. In low rooms, it is better to refuse this method - the finished structure will take about 8-10 cm in height.
Before starting to mount the base, you should bring the logs into the room and let them lie down for a couple of days so that the wood material adapts to its surrounding conditions.
Select the step for fixing the lag in accordance with the dimensions of the boards used. It is important that in the future the boards do not sag.
First step. Lay one log at the same level at opposite walls.
Second step. Pull dense parallel threads between the laid lags. The distance between the threads depends on the thickness of the floorboards. If your boards are more than 3 cm thick, pull the threads at a distance of about 80 cm, but if the flooring elements are thinner than 3 cm, then the threads should be pulled at a distance of no more than 60 cm. If you use boards with a thickness of more than 4 cm, you can increase the distance between the threads up to 100 cm.
Third step. Set the lags, focusing on the stretched threads. Adjust the mounting height with wooden wedges. It is important that all lags are set strictly at the same level.
Logs must be fastened to the base. If the base in your house is made of wood, fix it with self-tapping screws or nails, if it is made of concrete, use dowels or anchors.
Fourth step. Fill the space between adjacent joists with thermal insulation material. You can lay foam, mineral wool, expanded clay, etc.
In the process of laying the boards will need to be attached to each installed log. Preliminary in the material you need to prepare holes for self-tapping screws. An electric drill with a drill of the appropriate diameter will help you with this.
An excellent base for future quality flooring can be made from plywood. High-quality plywood is almost not subject to deformation during the use of the floor. The material is characterized by high strength and reliability.
If necessary, the floor on the plywood sheets in question can be quickly and easily removed. When laying the base, you do not have to carry out any additional work - the flooring is mounted directly on the plywood sheets.
First step. Place the plywood sheets on the base and, using ordinary chalk, draw a diagram of the future laying of the elements. Focusing on this markup, you will install the logs, and already lay sheets of plywood on them.
Second step. Install lags. The optimal pitch is 400 mm. Align the logs with linings from the same plywood. All elements must be installed strictly at the same level. Attach the aligned logs to the base. Choose fasteners according to the base material.
Third step. Glue the finished structure with glue so that the floor does not crack in the future.
Fourth step. Cover the system with rolled glassine or other material with similar properties.
Fifth step. Lay the plywood. The edges of each sheet should lie on the logs. Place the plywood sheets themselves with a small gap, no more than 1-2 mm. To fasten sheets, use self-tapping screws - about 8-9 fasteners per sheet. Sand the joints carefully.
If desired, you can level the concrete base with a screed and lay the flooring directly on the floor, without installing an additional base.
In such a situation, it is important that the boards cannot come into direct contact with the concrete. Soil mastic or ordinary polyethylene foam will perfectly cope with the functions of the intermediate layer. When using polyethylene, place insulation sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
First step. Start fastening boards from any wall. Leave a 15mm gap between the wall of the room and the boards of the starting row. After completing the installation of the flooring, you will close it with a plinth. Drive in screws or nails at a slight angle, trying to deepen the heads of the fasteners into the wood by about 2 mm.
1 - lag; 2 - bracket; 3 - wedges; 4 - doboynik
Second step. After installing the first floorboard, step back about 50 mm from the edge and drive brackets into the bars with an insignificant gap, and then insert a thin rail into the gap that appears after that.
Third step. Drive a wooden wedge slightly larger than the gap left between the installed rail and the fixed brackets. Thanks to the wedge, the edges of the boards to be laid will be pressed as tightly as possible, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. Staples can be removed after fixing the boards with screws or nails.
a - building bracket; b - wedge clamp with a movable bracket; in - rack compression
1 - bracket; 2 - wedges; 3 - lag; 4 - spur; 5 - emphasis; 6 - movable bracket; 7 - clamping screw; 8 - stops; 9 - gear wheel with a ratchet - dog; 10 - handle; 11 - screw with stop
That is, you need to work according to this scheme: they laid a couple of boards, pressed them with a rail and a wedge, and fixed them with self-tapping screws. Lay the entire flooring according to this scheme. Before attaching each next board, it must be additionally compacted with a mallet.
Fourth step. Sand the joints of the boards.
Fifth step. Hide the gaps between the walls and boards with a floor plinth.
Sixth step. Lay the top coat, such as parquet board or any other material of your choice. You can do without finishing flooring, but simply paint the boards, cover them with varnish or other composition.
Wood is a high-quality and durable material with excellent performance and properties. However, in order for the flooring to fully show its properties, you, as a performer, are required to follow the instructions exactly and follow the recommendations received at each stage of work. Follow this simple guide and you'll be fine.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself wooden flooring
There is an opinion that the floorboard is a capricious material that requires a considerable amount of effort and attention. In fact, the floor board, like any other material, requires compliance with the rules of storage and installation. You will learn how to properly lay a floorboard in this article.
Foundation preparation
Logs are the traditional basis for a wooden floor. They are made of timber, which is attached to a concrete screed or building floors. Anchor bolts, galvanized corners, self-tapping screws are used as fasteners.
The cross section of the beam depends on the thickness of the floor board and the height of the heat-insulating layer. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the lags, and a couple of centimeters of free space should remain between it and the floor. When choosing a beam, this requirement must be taken into account.
The floor board in the walk-through rooms is laid in the direction of movement. In bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms, installation is carried out parallel to the sun's rays penetrating through the window.
Lags are laid perpendicular to the direction of laying the floor board. The optimal distance from the wall is 20-30 cm. The distance between the logs depends on the thickness of the coating and is in the range of 30 cm - 1 m. The thicker and stronger the board, the greater the distance between the logs.
Laying the floor board
Take the flooring out of the packages 2-3 days before installation and leave it in the room to allow the wood to adapt to the current humidity.
Start the installation by placing the first board with a spike against the wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from it. The same space must be left on all sides. Do not worry about how it will look, the gap will be closed with a plinth.
For fastening, use ordinary or spax screws. The second option is slightly more expensive, but preferable. These fasteners do not require pre-drilling a hole, which speeds up and simplifies the work. It is not recommended to use nails, as they do not provide reliable fixation.
If, when combining the boards, you notice that they do not fit tightly along the entire length, the curved places can be tightened with a jack attached to the logs.
You can fix the board in a spike or in the front surface. For outdoor mounting, the self-tapping screws are slightly recessed in the wood, after which they are closed with plugs. The result of flush mounting looks neater, but less reliable.
Floorboards made of larch and pine, spruce can be purchased from the manufacturer on the website Doska-strogannaja.ru.
Good and warm floor!
Plank flooring is the perfect solution for creating a feeling of coziness and comfort in the room. Laying the floorboard, you can do it yourself, and perhaps contact the company for services. One such organization is the San Sanych repair company in Moscow.
Considering all the nuances of the room where the laying of the floorboard is planned, several methods can be used:
- Use of lag;
- Use of plywood;
- Using a screed.
Before starting work, the specialists of the repair company will help prepare the floor for laying, organize the correct temperature indicators, as well as the humidity in the room. After coating the surface, the workers will carry out the final processing processes. The price of laying directly depends on the preparation process, the chosen laying technique and the materials used.
Cost of work
Using lag at work
The log is used mainly in those rooms where it is possible to raise the floor level. This method has a number of advantages:
- Significant time savings during work;
- It is possible to place heat and sound insulating materials;
- Can hold wires;
- The floor air circulation is greatly improved.
Among the shortcomings, it can only be noted that with this method, the height of the room decreases.
Use of plywood
Laying on plywood is done only after the floor base has been prepared. Plywood is fastened with screws or dowels. For greater strength, it is possible to use glue. Immediately after the installation of plywood, the surface should be carefully sanded and primed. Then you need to clean up.
Advantages:
- Significantly saves time during installation;
- Immediately after the installation of plywood, it is possible to lay;
- The floor becomes more even.
This type of installation cannot be done independently. But specialists in this type of activity will do everything quickly, reliably and efficiently.
Using a screed at work
When using a concrete screed, you need to make sure that there are no fragments that can peel off. If there are any, then you need to remove them and level the surface. For strength, the concrete screed and boards are connected with a special primer, which includes a two-component adhesive and solvents.
Advantages:
- Simple execution technique;
- Saving money;
- Reliability and durability;
The main disadvantages of this method:
- Long execution associated with the drying of the surface;
- Dirty and wet mounting method.
Professional floor board installation
When deciding on the installation method, do not forget that excessive frugality can lead to rather unfortunate consequences. Among them, the most widespread violation of the geometry of the floor, the appearance of an unpleasant creak and backlash, as well as the loss of wear resistance and aesthetic appearance when using low-quality paintwork or violation of the technology of their application.
In our company, the laying of floor boards is carried out by specialists who are perfectly familiar with the peculiarities of working with wooden coatings, which require a special approach and knowledge.
Flooring is a long-awaited stage in the transition from the state of “when will this construction be completed” to the state of “it seems that it will be completed soon”. The premises take on a more or less normal appearance, it is easier to assess the area and volume. On open tracks, verandas, in utility blocks, the plank floor is laid from edged boards. But there are gaps in it, which, in this case, is acceptable. In residential premises, a special tongue-and-groove board is usually used. Its installation has its own characteristics, which we will talk about in this article. So, laying the floor from a grooved board - details and techniques.
What is a grooved board and why is it better
A board is called grooved, along one side of which a groove is cut, along the other - a spike. When laying, the spike enters the groove, creating a stronger connection, eliminating "blowing". And this is a plus compared to edged or deck boards.
Another plus is associated with the technological process: the grooved board is “customized” in geometry, cutting off the sidewalls, sanding the front side, and longitudinal grooves are cut on the back side for better ventilation. Then, a spike and a groove are formed on the machined sidewalls with a cutter. After that, the grooved board is ready. With such processing, there is certainly a difference (especially in low-grade goods), but not so big and grinding is needed, but not to the same extent as when using edged lumber.
A little about why it is so much more expensive. There is a lot of work, it is for this reason that this material is much more expensive, but the floor is stronger, more reliable.
How to choose quality material
Laying a tongue and groove floor begins with the choice of material. Let's talk about sizes first. The width of the floorboard is from 70 mm to 200 mm. To take too narrow - it will take a lot of time to lay, too wide - it is very likely that the edges of the board will rise when it dries, the floor will turn out to be ribbed. The problem is solved by grinding, but this is an additional cost in terms of time and money. Therefore, most often they take a grooved board of medium width - 130-150 cm.
The thickness of the grooved board is from 18 mm to 45 mm. Laying a thin one is unprofitable - so that it does not bend when laying on logs, they (logs) must be set often. Therefore, for the floor, lumber with a thickness of 28 mm, 36 mm, 45 mm is more often used.
The grooved board is sold in different lengths. The standard ones are 3 m and 6 m, but they produce 4 m and 5 m. The choice is simple here: the length of the material should be slightly longer than the length of the room in which it will be laid. Splicing in length is not very beautiful, because they often do it that way.
The choice of wood species
The floor board is made from pine and spruce, larch, oak or ash. Pine and spruce are not expensive, but their wood is soft. Traces remain from heels, fallen objects, are squeezed by furniture. In places of active movement, "paths" are formed over time. The situation can be saved by coating with wear-resistant varnish in several layers. If this option suits you, the choice is good.
Larch tongue-and-groove board is a more expensive material, but also more wear-resistant. The wood has a pronounced pattern, a pleasant color. Can be used uncoated or coated with oil-based formulations without creating a hard film on the surface.
Oak and ash are very beautiful hardwoods with dense, durable wood. But their prices are outrageous. As in the previous version, the floor of these types of wood can be used without coating or with more gentle formulations.
Type of grooved board and its characteristics
All lumber is divided into four grades:
Grade C is used when constructing a subfloor. There are too many defects in it for a fine one. The remaining classes are suitable for finishing, but which grade you choose depends on financial capabilities - the difference between the classes is decent.
Humidity
For a comfortable laying of a tongue and groove floor, choose kiln-dried wood. In this case, the raw material after sawing is kept in drying chambers, in which it is brought to a moisture content of 8-14%. Such material is unlikely to dry out after laying - this is almost impossible, but the cost is about 50% higher compared to natural drying material. This is due to the cost of equipment (drying chambers) and fuel for drying.
Humidity is measured with a special device that professionals have, and even then not everyone. You can also try to determine by appearance. Most often, kiln-dried lumber is packed in polyethylene - so that it does not absorb moisture from the air. Naturally, the packaging must be intact and free of moisture (condensation on the inside). If you knock on dry wood, it makes a clear, ringing sound, while wet wood sounds muffled.
What will happen if you lay the floor from the grooved board of high humidity? The first thing you will have to face is the formation of cracks as it shrinks. After six months or a year, the floor will have to be redone, removing the gaps that have formed. Secondly, cracks often appear during drying, the wood is twisted in different directions. Sometimes these distortions can be compensated by pressing the board harder, sometimes not. So you have to keep a couple of boards "in reserve": to add during the bulkhead from shrinkage and to replace badly crumpled fragments.
Geometry
When choosing, be sure to pay attention not to the geometry. In addition to the fact that the thickness and width of the board should match, there should be no significant curvature, it is necessary to pay attention to the correct formation of the tongue and groove:
In normal production, this is all monitored, but in reality there is a very large spread - 5 mm is not the limit. It is clear that such a floor will have to be sanded. But, the smaller the discrepancy, the less the amount of work will be. Therefore, try to find a manufacturer for which this difference will be minimal.
Grooved floor installation
Due to the possible shrinkage of the wood, the laying of the floor from the grooved board is carried out in two stages. For the first time, only every 4-5 plank is fixed, after 6-18 months the coating is sorted out, eliminating the gaps that have formed. The second time they are already attaching each board, to each log.
If the premises are residential, the wood, while it dries, is overwritten and loses its attractive appearance. To prevent this from happening, for the first time the grooved board is fixed with the back side up. When re-laying, turn it face up. We have clean coverage.
Laying the floor from the grooved board on the logs is the most acceptable option
When purchasing material, do not forget to leave a few strips so that you can add after tightening. Depending on the initial moisture and the width of the boards, one or two (or even more) additional boards may be required. They are also left to dry. Preferably in the same room, but possible in the attic. On the street, this is already a problem, since the appearance will be “not the same”.
Mounting method and fasteners
Laying the floor from the grooved board can be carried out using nails or self-tapping screws. Nails are made of flexible steel and endure significant loads. When “twisting” the boards, they bend, but do not break. Only there is another problem: it is very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to remove them without damaging the wood. And it is necessary to remove the fasteners when replacing too curved boards or when reassembling the floor after the wood has dried. Therefore, self-tapping screws are more often used, and not black, but yellow. Black ones are made of brittle hardened steel. With lateral loads that occur during the "torsion" of the boards, the hats simply fly off. So, for laying a grooved floor, it is better to use yellow self-tapping screws.
There are three ways to fix the floorboard, two of which are hidden:
With a hidden fastening, the self-tapping screw must be installed so that it does not interfere with the installation of the next board. To do this, a hole is pre-drilled (the drill is equal in diameter to the diameter of the cap), and then self-tapping screws are installed. The dimensions of the fastener depend on the thickness of the board, but most often they are used with a length of 70-75 mm and a diameter of 4-4.5 mm. Such a large length is needed due to the fact that with a secret fastening, the screw enters at an angle, it turns out - to a not very great depth.
If you still decide to make a reliable fastening in the face, it can be made less noticeable. This is achieved by deepening the head into the wood (you can pre-drill a hole). The resulting recess is sealed with wood putty and sanded. The second option is to cut a chopik, install it in a recess and sand it too. But all this requires a significant amount of time and skills, therefore, when installing a grooved board, they prefer to use hidden mounting methods.
General rules for flooring
The first row is laid with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall and fastened, stepping back from the edge of about 1 cm, into the front surface - into the face. This place will be covered with a plinth, so you can do that. If the mounting method "into the spike" is selected, the groove is turned to the wall, and vice versa.
The last board is also laid so that there is some gap to the wall. It can be provided with the help of linings and wedges that are hammered between the wall and the last board. It is also fastened “into the face”, stepping back about 1 cm from the edge.
How to pull floor boards
If you take a grooved board of class AB or B, there will be a lot of curved board. The longer the board, the more pronounced the curvature will be. The first few pieces from the wall try to choose the most even ones. They are laid, fixed. This will be the basis on which you can navigate. Next, they try to select the boards so that the curved places alternate. They are pressed or they are said to be “pulled together”, trying to make sure that there are no gaps.
On the right is the traditional way of screeding curved floorboards.
For screeding the floorboard, different devices are used. For example, a support bar nailed at some distance and several wedges. This method is good for everyone, except that you have to screw the support every time. With rough laying, when only 4-5 boards are attached, this is still normal - you can pull together several pieces at a time. But if you need to fasten each, it takes a lot of time. Therefore, clamps, special staples, and other devices are used. The clamps are simply fixed to the joists, the staples are hammered into them, after which ordinary wooden wedges are used, which unite the coating, eliminating the gaps. Both options take less time.
There are also factory options (pictured below). The main thing here is a cunning mechanism for attaching to the lags on the clamp. The mechanism for holding the boards in the desired position is also interesting.
When working, make sure that the laying of the floor from the grooved board does not “leave”. This can be seen if you look at the laid floor from the side: the flooring can be bent along the edges to one side. To prevent this, periodically measure the distance from the board to be laid to the walls in several places, adjust its position to acceptable values.
The video shows in more detail how to work with such devices. The first is the traditional way with a thrust board and wedges.
The second is unusual homemade clamps from a hairpin and a corner for ceiling mounting of beams. An interesting option - you can adjust the length of the clamp, that is, you can rearrange it every other time.
A very interesting way to quickly install. But in this case, the laying of the floor from the grooved board is done by two: one presses, the second installs the fasteners. You just have to pre-drill holes for the desired width of the lumber.
Can a tongue and groove floor installation be done without this step? Maybe if you buy material of the “extra” class or lay meter-long (or so) pieces. If there are gaps on a meter-long segment, they are small and easily corrected without devices.
