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Installing closet doors. How to make a sliding wardrobe: is it easy to assemble a fashionable type of furniture with your own hands? How to assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own

Sliding wardrobe - one of the most convenient and compact ways of storage of things. It has small shelves for light items of clothing, and large ones for more voluminous things, there are ski storage compartments, a compartment equipped with a bar for outerwear, etc.

Sliding doors, which do not require space for opening, give compactness to the cabinet; they move on special rollers located inside the structure of the door itself. Even an inexperienced person in such matters can assemble such a cabinet, since the assembly principle is quite simple and does not require the use of special tools.

We read the instructions and sort the parts

First you need to carefully read the instructions and deal with the individual details - find the lower and upper elements, side racks, internal partitions.

If you mix up at least one part, then you are guaranteed to have to disassemble the newly assembled structure and mount everything again. Therefore, it is so important at the initial stage to correctly determine the location of all parts of the cabinet.

Assembling the frame

Install the base (bottom element) first.

As a rule, this plate is attached to stands located along the long side with the help of confirmations (these are the so-called euro screws, which have a recess in the cap for a special hex key).

Installing interior partitions

At the bottom end of the partitions there are holes into which dowels must be inserted before installation.

A dowel (chopic) is a small piece of a round rod used to strengthen wooden joints.

There are non-through holes in the bottom plate, which are designed for such dowels. Aligning the dowels and holes, we install the vertical partitions in their place (here you will need an assistant).

We fix the shelves

Now, in order to prevent the structure from loosening, we mount the shelves, which in this case work as stiffeners.

We fix them with the help of confirmations.

Fasteners at this stage must be wrapped to the end, leaving no free play.

We carry out the installation of side racks and top cover

Now the final part of the frame assembly is the installation of the side racks and the top cover. All three elements must be installed at the same time.

Although this action depends on the design features and the location of the attachment points on these parts. First, we install the sidewalls, fastening them at the bottom with the base with confirmations.

Then we put the lid on top, combine the holes in all the details and also wrap the fasteners. Here you need to leave a little free play, as you will need to align the entire frame.

Aligning the structure

The alignment process consists of the following steps. It is necessary to measure first one diagonal with a tape measure, then the second one and, by the difference in values, determine in which direction you need to “squeeze” (move) the top of the cabinet so that its corners are perfectly straight.

Now you can wrap the confirmations to the end with effort.

Nailing chipboard sheets

The next step in the assembly will be nailing the fiberboard sheets to the back of the cabinet.

These sheets will not only serve as a back wall, but also reliably keep the structure from loosening for the entire period of operation.

As a rule, canvases have a decorative treatment on the front side in the form of a laminated colored surface. Sheets are fastened with small nails, which must be hammered into the ends of all cabinet elements (racks, partitions, shelves).

Here it is important to guess the place of nailing, because on the reverse side of the cabinet details are not visible, and the damage resulting from the wrong choice adversely affects the appearance of the product.

We place the rails - guides

Now the most crucial moment is the installation of the lower and upper rails for the doors. The bottom rail has two grooves for the movement of the rollers:

And the top is divided into two sections:

In both, you must first drill holes for the screws to attach them to the base and cover.

Holes must be chamfered for screwing flush.

It is enough to make 4 holes in each bar. We fix the bottom rail first, marking the corresponding attachment points.

The distance from the edge of the base to the leading edge of the rail should be 2.5 cm.

In order for the doors not to jam and they move evenly, it is necessary to install the cabinet strictly horizontally, which can be done using the usual building level.

The longer the level, the more accurate the horizontal indicators will be.

The upper rail is attached in the same way, with the only difference being that you need to drill holes in a checkerboard pattern in both compartments.

Screws from the kit supplied with the cabinet are used as fasteners.

From the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the rail edge, the distance should be 2 mm.

Installing rods and fittings

The final construction step will be the installation of a bar to accommodate outerwear.

First you need to mark the attachment points for one holder (it is attached with 3 screws), drill holes and tighten the screws.

Then install the second holder on the rod, pressing it with a screw.

The assembled structure must first be tried on, aligning it horizontally, and then outlined and attached with the same self-tapping screws.

We hang doors

Before this stage, you need to check the gutters in the lower bar for the absence of debris that will interfere with the movement of the rollers, once again make sure that the planes are horizontal and check all connections for rigidity.

The door is first inserted into the top rail.

And then the end rollers must be placed in the groove of the lower rail.

Thus, all 4 doors are installed (the main thing is not to confuse the pattern).

In principle, there is nothing complicated in the installation of a sliding wardrobe. You just need to take a responsible attitude to all stages of its assembly, and then you will find not only advanced training as a home craftsman, but also gratitude for saving the family budget.

Assembly completed - result in the photo

Furniture assembly services. We will assemble a wardrobe, a kitchen, a nursery ... of any complexity. We have experienced craftsmen with all the necessary professional tools.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a sliding wardrobe

Assembling wardrobe. If you by purchasing closet, decided to save money on furniture assemblers, then this article with detailed instructions and some secrets will help you assemble a cabinet without the mistakes that beginners usually make. We hope that this article will save you not only time for assembly and disassembly, but also your expensive nerves. Sliding wardrobes have different designs, and the way they are assembled may differ slightly. We offer you the most common and common wardrobe, assembly instruction which will help during the assembly of other models.

Wardrobe assembly tool

To assemble the wardrobe, you need a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a set of hex keys, a tape measure, and a clerical knife. Sliding wardrobe with three doors with sliding shelves and a bar for hangers
Cabinet plinth assembly There are two types of wardrobes, in some the plinth is screwed to the body separately, in others the side walls are the base of the plinth and are connected by a longitudinal plank-plinth. This cabinet has a separate plinth, which is assembled using Minifixes(furniture corners).

The indent should be the same on all sides. Make sure the corners are 90 degrees. Usually furniture makers use self-tapping screws with a size of 4 * 16. Sometimes the plinth can be screwed a little closer to the front side if you have a wide plinth in the room. We nail the support legs to the base. Sometimes the manufacturer completes the cabinet with adjustable legs, with which the level of the cabinet is adjusted. Cabinets are assembled for convenience mainly in a lying position, so it is recommended to provide enough space for mounting the cabinet in advance.

Assembling the cabinet body

Follow the enclosed instructions carefully. All parts and fasteners have their own designation. It is very important not to confuse the body parts, which at first glance are the same and may differ by only two or three holes. Otherwise, when the cabinet is almost assembled, you will have to disassemble it again and put the parts in their place. Lay the pieces of the side walls parallel. Important! Be careful not to confuse the top and bottom of the parts, as well as the front side with the back. The front side always has an edge, the back side can have a groove for the back wall made of fiberboard.

This cabinet is also assembled with furniture fasteners Rafix. A part that looks like a minifix, but has a plastic case. We screw the rods from the raffixes into the holes intended for them and tighten them with an eccentric. Be careful until the cabinet body is assembled and the back wall is installed, all fastenings can be easily break out. Do not skew cabinet parts, keep even corners. Installing the rear wall of the cabinet. After the cabinet body is assembled, the connections are tightened, it is necessary to turn the cabinet over and lay it face down. In order not to scratch the front of the cabinet, it is advisable to put cardboard or a rag under it. You can use cabinet packaging.

Cabinet Diagonal

Before fixing the wall of the cabinet, you need to set the diagonal so that all corners of the cabinet are 90 degrees. To do this, you need to measure the two diagonals of the cabinet with a tape measure. They must be equal in length (See the diagram). Some cabinets do not have a groove for the back wall and it is simply nailed to the end. It is better to use self-tapping screws or a stapler with long hardened staples. Since the wall usually consists of two or more parts, a connecting strip is provided at the junctions. If there is none, then it is better to fasten it to the internal parts with a stapler, since the thickness of the chipboard body is 16 or 18 mm, when you screw two parts of the fiberboard to it, you only have 9 mm left. stock. It is easy to miss with a self-tapping screw and go past the end of the part, where the back wall is connected and screwed.
Now the cabinet can be placed. Lifting is best done with an assistant. It's easier and safer that way. When the cabinet is installed in its place, you can mount the shelves. For this, either shelf holders, or corners, or rafiks are provided. We screw the rods of the raffixes into the sockets under them and lower the shelf on top of them. It is easier to start installation from the top shelves. We fasten the roller guides. Self-tapping screws should not protrude so as not to interfere with the course of the rollers. Insert the assembled boxes into the guides. They should slide out easily without rubbing. We fasten the flanges for the rod. Usually there is a markup for self-tapping screws. If not, then it is necessary to step back from above 7-10 cm, enough to be able to hang hangers.

Installation of wardrobe doors

Now that the cabinet is almost assembled, it remains to install the doors. It is desirable to pre-adjust the level of the cabinet. Otherwise, the doors will not close tightly. To install the top rail, you need to drill at least 5 holes for self-tapping screws, two on each side and one in the middle. The guide should be aligned with the edge of the cabinet lid.
To install the lower guide, it is also necessary to drill three holes with a diameter of 4 mm, and chamfer with a larger diameter drill so that the head of the self-tapping screw is flush with the guide. Sliding wardrobe guides from different manufacturers require different indentation of the cabinet edge. To simplify the installation, you can simply put the guide on the installation site, and fix it when the doors are installed.
Installing the door in the rails. First, the upper rollers are inserted into the upper guide and raised to the stop, then the lower rollers are inserted. First, two side doors are inserted into the second track, then the middle door into the first track.
The doors are adjusted with a hex wrench (sometimes with a “cross” screwdriver). When correctly set, the door should fit snugly against both walls of the cabinet.
Now you can glue the sealing brushes. First, the protective film is removed. Attention, after removing the protective film, it is not recommended to touch the place where the brush will be glued with your hands. Oily fingerprints will make the brushes stick worse.

Self-assembly of furniture helps to save a lot of money. It is good if a person has simple skills in assembling objects. It will be useful for beginners to learn how to assemble a sliding wardrobe on their own. Step-by-step installation steps for each element of the product will allow for quick installation.

Among all types of products for storing clothes, the sliding wardrobe occupies a leading place today. It is multifunctional, roomy, available in different shapes and sizes, and does not require additional space to open the doors. That is why most people, when choosing between a wardrobe and a wardrobe, prefer the latter option.

Assembling a sliding wardrobe with your own hands in the video presented is quite simple - for this it is enough to have the necessary tools in the apartment and be familiar with the design of the product. Often, when ordering a cabinet without the services of assemblers, companies send a document containing a drawing of the product. It also lists all the component parts, which are numbered in order. Looking at the picture and comparing the elements of the cabinet, you can intuitively assemble the product.

To work according to the wardrobe assembly scheme, you will need the following tools:

• building level - to check the evenness of the installation parallel to the floor;
• corner;
• rubber and regular hammer;
• straight and Phillips screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil and ruler;
• screwdriver;
• wood drill - to make holes;
• drill for metal - for installing an aluminum base.

Of the additional tools for assembling furniture, a jigsaw, a drill and sandpaper can come in handy. It is also necessary to prepare all the details of the cabinet, which means checking the diagram for the correct number of items. Pay attention to fittings and mechanisms: if there are drawers in the closet, ball guides should be included in the package.

Doors for the product are often supplied ready-made. They are pre-installed with rollers and a strip of soft material. It is necessary to mount the door in the final phase.

Tools

Assembly steps

To know how to get started, you should familiarize yourself with its stages. Most sliding wardrobes are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• plinth;
• frame;
• installation of the back wall;
• installation of shelves and guides;
• sliding door installation.

After the completed stages, the introduction of internal additional elements is carried out. These include pull-out baskets, drawers, rods, hanging hooks and pantographs. Consider the installation of each element of the cabinet separately.

Assembly steps

plinth

The assembly of sliding wardrobes, the video of which is presented below, starts from the bottom, which accounts for the entire load during operation. We find a part that will perform this function, and put it in front of us. In order for the process to go correctly, we use tools such as screwdrivers or a screwdriver, a hexagon, a pencil and a tape measure for marking. Also check the package for the presence of self-tapping screws and special camouflage plugs.

The algorithm of actions looks like this:

• on the details for the bottom, a place is marked for installing the base;
• sometimes, instead of plinths, adjustable legs are used, a place for which also needs to be marked;
• drill holes for fasteners;
• we attach the bottom to the slats with the help of confirmations (corners) - for this, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are used;
• we assemble the transverse supports of the base, designed for stability.

Some products, such as phoenix coupe models, require installation with adjustable feet. This is easy to do: the plastic plugs are cut off with a knife, and the legs themselves are screwed into holes prepared at the bottom with a diameter of 10 mm.

Depending on the size of the assembled wardrobe, the number of legs will be adjustable. So, for large planes, more than 6 support elements will be required.

Preliminary marking of the cabinet base

The base is easiest to assemble on furniture metal corners

Installing the legs

Finished plinth with legs

Frame

Before disassembling and assembling wardrobes from scratch, it is important to familiarize yourself with the general structure of the existing product. Carefully study the diagram, because the assembly of the case must ensure the safe operation of the cabinet. From how securely it is installed, the stability of the internal elements will matter.

In order for the assembly of furniture to be accurate, you should additionally check the floor surface for evenness. Use the building level: if there are differences on the floor, tighten the adjustable legs. Only then assemble the product box.

To properly mount the case, follow these steps:

• it is better to assemble the product while standing, because it is very difficult to mount a perfectly fitted cabinet in a lying position. But it is important to remember that for a complete assembly, a minimum of 100 mm must be left for roof mounting;
• in the part that is responsible for the bottom, you must first drill a few holes and insert the anchor. Rack strips will be mounted on the installed fasteners;
• installation of standing panels is carried out together: in order not to get confused, you can view the instructions for assembling the sliding wardrobe, presented in the video. First, the left sidewall is inserted, one person holds it while the second one inserts the right sidewall;
• at the next stage, the middle stand is mounted, if it is present. After its installation, the installation of the roof takes place. If the cabinet is assembled in a standing position, then this part will be fixed correctly on the corners or confirmations.

It is a little more difficult to assemble a maestro model wardrobe with many functions. Its installation is carried out slowly, preferably by several people.

Fastening takes place with euro screws

Installation of the side and inner walls of the cabinet

The base is connected to the body with the help of confirmatory corners.

Back wall installation

To assemble the compartment yourself, in particular, to attach the back wall of the product, you need to correctly select consumables - fasteners. Often, assemblers use incorrectly selected consumables, due to which, over time, the fiberboard panel moves away from the furniture product. In Soviet times, hardboard was assembled on the back wall with the help of nails, which is undesirable today.

For greater reliability, attach the fiberboard wall to the cabinet using self-tapping screws. This is how the product will not be damaged during operation.

When assembling furniture for yourself, it is important to carry out a high-quality assembly of a sliding wardrobe with your own hands: the video below clearly shows all the complex nuances. Perform the following manipulations:

• put the hardboard panel behind the cabinet;
• holding the sheet with your hands, use short self-tapping screws and use a screwdriver or screwdriver to screw them in at a distance of 10-20 cm.

If the cabinet has several rear walls at once, they must be fixed end-to-end. Use special tightening fasteners, then screw the screws onto the back of the middle bar.

Rear wall fixing

Installation of shelves and rails

In order not to have to disassemble the product and redo your work, check the reliability and stability of the frame, and then proceed to filling with internal elements: shelves, rods, drawers and guides. You can engage in self-assembly of the sliding wardrobe using the video, which is at the bottom of the article. It visually provides information about all the important points of the process.

You should pay attention to such nuances:

• shelves can be fastened using corners and self-tapping screws. For this, the parts themselves already have drilled holes. We first note the distance between the shelves and fasten them to the sidewalls and the central standing bar;
• first, the upper rails for the doors are installed, after which the lower rails are mounted. It is worth emphasizing that the installation of these elements must be carried out strictly in a straight line - the correct course of the doors will depend on this;
• the bar is mounted on special flanges that come with it in the kit. If necessary, the length of the pipe is filed with a hacksaw for metal. If a Fortune model cabinet is being assembled, you should pay attention to a large number of elements and not confuse them;
• drawers and drawers are inserted into the product after attaching the mechanisms for their operation.

Before you mount the internal filling yourself, check the availability of all fittings and consumables.

Guide sliding system

Preparing holes on the rails

Before installing the guides, it is necessary to correctly position the stopper

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Among all the existing types of cabinets, the three-door designs with sliding compartment doors are now considered the most popular. This is a versatile piece of furniture, but it needs to be correctly selected and the content arranged. Let's look into all these subtleties, and home craftsmen will receive a detailed plan for self-assembly of a three-door wardrobe in 5 steps.

Three door wardrobes

The main secret of the popularity of three-door designs is that an ordinary two-door wardrobe turns out to be too small, and multi-section systems are heavy and difficult for self-assembly, plus all these options do not differ too much in price.

Types of cabinets

• Built-in - such structures are mounted if you need to completely cut off part of the room or occupy an empty niche. They are the most convenient in terms of self-assembly. It is not difficult to assemble shelves and drawers with your own hands, and the front panel can be ordered separately;
• Semi-built-in - in such cabinets, one or both side walls are permanently installed. The ceiling is used as the top cover, and the wall of the room replaces the back panel;
• Case - in case structures there is everything except the rear panel, all parts are attached to the wall of the room. They are used in apartments and houses with high ceilings;
• Modular - in fact, this is a constructor, here you can arrange drawers, shelves and other elements as you wish. This option is not suitable for self-assembly, reputable firms attract buyers with modular designs, although if made to order in an ordinary furniture workshop, it comes out cheaper.

Sliding wardrobes 3-door: advantages and disadvantages

Of the advantages, the following are especially in demand:

• Rational use of usable space. Such furniture occupies the entire area, from floor to ceiling, and if you correctly distribute the space, then a lot of things will fit into a relatively small closet;
• The swing door needs additional space when opened, the sliding system does not cause problems in this regard;
• The architectural excesses of apartments with an old layout, such as niches made for some unknown reason and ownerless crooked corners, with the help of built-in furniture, instantly turn into advantages;
• From experience, in Brezhnevka and Khrushchev houses, it is the three-door closet that becomes great in bedrooms and nurseries;
• The three-section facade opens up a wide range of design possibilities. Competently alternating matte finishes, gloss, glass and mirror, you can create genuine furniture masterpieces from relatively inexpensive materials;

• It is real to assemble such furniture with your own hands for a home master. And here you can do without expensive machines and professional tools, but more on that later.

Where are the disadvantages:

• Sliding doors are considered a weak point in such furniture. Cheap roller systems break down in 2-3 years, and the saddest thing is that they cannot be repaired, the mechanism has to be completely changed. Therefore, it is impossible to save on door rollers;
• Since it is impossible to fully open the cabinet in the three-door version, it is necessary to install additional internal lighting or, at least, put a pair of spotlights above the doors;

How to choose a three-leaf wardrobe

In essence, the choice of such furniture is based on 3 "pillars" - this is the size, the material from which the cabinet is made and the type of roller door system.

According to the established rules, the width of 1 leaf of sliding doors should not exceed 700 mm, by simple calculations we obtain a possible maximum for a 3-door cabinet of 2100 mm, but there are nuances here.

• So that there are no gaps between the doors, in the closed position they should have an overlap of 30 - 50 mm, respectively, if the distance exceeds 2.1 m, then either narrow panels must be inserted on the sides of the box, or door leaves should be made wider;
• Ordering wide doors is not a problem, but they will be heavy and for such doors, you will have to buy a high-quality and far from cheap roller system;
• We conclude that if you order furniture for a wide span, then it is better to increase the size of the doors and at the same time put good rollers on them, and if you do it yourself, it would be wiser to insert vertical stripes on both sides, but for ease of use, their width should not exceed 150 mm.

Another point related to the topic of dimensions is the choice of the depth of the structure. In serial models, it ranges from 450 to 650 mm. But small boxes (up to 600 mm) are very inconvenient in operation and are only suitable for a hallway.

I don’t know who and when came up with these standards, but from personal experience I can say that the depth of a good sliding wardrobe only starts at 650 mm. The thing is that, depending on the model, the roller system takes from 50 to 100 mm of depth, plus the gap between the doors and shelves is 10 - 15 mm.

Now let's calculate: for example, you saved money and took a box with a depth of 500 mm. We subtract (at a minimum) 50 mm for the rollers and 10 mm for the gap, we have 44 cm left. Any housewife will tell you that only towels and handkerchiefs will fit on such miniature shelves, I'm not talking about suits and outerwear.

With the choice of material for arranging shelves and facades, everything is a little simpler. I recommend you refuse a natural board. More precisely, inside the frame for the shelves from the timber can still be assembled, but the wood is not suitable for the facade, due to different humidity in the cabinet and outside, the board will crack. The rest of the picture is:

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Plywood. Thick plywood with a “shirt” made of expensive veneer will last a long time, but it costs serious money, so it is rarely used.
	chipboard. An excellent material, but at the moment it is considered harmful due to the presence of formaldehyde in it. When choosing chipboard, ask for a quality certificate and pay attention to the chipboard emission class, it should be no more than E1.
	MDF. The most demanded material at the moment, it does not contain any harmful impurities and is highly durable. Laminated MDF is the cheapest - it's just a plate pasted over with paper. Laminated is considered the golden mean, and MDF covered with natural wood veneer is classified as an elite line.
	Glass. In terms of popularity, glass can compete with MDF and chipboard. It uses either a mirror or sandblasted frosted glass. The only negative is that the glass breaks. Of course, it is better to take tempered glass, it is stronger and safer. But as an option, you can use ordinary glass, pasted over with a transparent polymer film, it will cost half as much. By the way, the film can be taken with an ornament or a photo panel

The choice of a roller system is one of the most important points. Steel rollers with the same metal guides are considered the most reliable, but in the public sector, these systems are noisy.

Aluminum systems are less noisy, but wear out faster. The service life, depending on the brand and the chosen model, varies within 10 years. But I do not recommend paying attention to plastic. As for the device, there are 3 directions:

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Monorail. System exclusively with top suspension, where twin rollers move inside a profiled pipe. From below, there is either nothing at all, or a metal limiter is attached, which does not allow the canvas to oscillate. The monorail is the most reliable and high-quality, suitable for doors of any weight and size, but it is also the most expensive.
	Hanger with hooks. Budget option for the upper suspension. The rollers are easily hung on the hooks, but also easily pop out of them. It is not expensive, but not popular.
	support roller. From below, along the edges of the canvas, 2 adjustable rollers are installed, which move along metal guides. It is on them that the canvas rests. A profile is also installed on top, along which rollers mounted on the upper edge ride, but they are only needed to hold the doors in a vertical position. This model is considered the most popular. Well-known brands give a guarantee of 10 - 15 years for such fittings.

Filling a 3-door sliding wardrobe

Regarding the filling and distribution of sections inside the closet, each housewife has her own opinion, plus the layout of the furniture for the hallway is radically different from the same furniture in the bedroom or living room.

So a three-door design in the hallway usually consists of 3 sections. From what I've seen, I liked the following the most:

• The section closest to the entrance doors is intended for clothes and shoes that are used in a given period of time. That is, in the center, either a trempel bar is mounted, or hooks on the back wall, below the mesh or shoe rack, and a headwear section on top;
• The department farthest from the door is arranged in exactly the same way as the near one, only it is intended for clothes and shoes that are waiting for their season;
• In the middle of the central section there are boxes for various small items such as shoe and clothing care products. From the middle and above there are shelves for handbags and other relatively large items. At the bottom is a compartment for a vacuum cleaner.

• In bedrooms and living rooms, the filling of cabinets is often the same. Here, on the central horizon, essentials such as underwear, shirts, robes, socks, etc. are placed;
• A separate section is given under bed linen, but it should not start below 50 cm from the floor;
• Closer to the outlet, either a retractable ironing board or a compartment for this board is installed;
• On the upper shelves are warm blankets, suitcases and other rarely taken things.

Assembling a three-door wardrobe with your own hands in 5 steps

Assembly and self-construction of built-in, semi-built-in and cabinet furniture is carried out according to similar schemes, the instructions differ only in details. Therefore, further I will tell the general algorithm of actions, and you already interpret it for your situation.

I’ll give you advice right away - it’s better for “green” beginners to order a facade roller system in a workshop, the work is troublesome. In place, you just have to screw the guides, insert the doors and adjust the rollers.

Step number 1. We draw up a project

It is better for an amateur to assemble a frame either from MDF or chipboard. Knocking down a frame of wooden bars only seems easier in appearance, in fact there are more problems. The network has programs on which you can design and calculate any furniture.

If the option with the program does not suit you, then draw a sketch by hand. When creating a sketch, beginners often do not take into account the thickness of the sheet, do not step on this "rake". By the way, a sheet of chipboard or MDF for such furniture is taken with a thickness of 16 mm.

When the sketch is ready, you need to draw up a table with details, that is, paint the dimensions of the plates for each shelf and drawer. Then take this table, go to the nearest furniture workshop and order cutting and laminating the ends.

You should not buy a large slab yourself and take it to the workshop for cutting. It is better to buy the material from them, the price will be the same, since these companies take the plates in bulk, plus you will still spend money on transport.

Step #2: Foundation

It doesn’t matter if you make a built-in wardrobe in a niche or assemble a cabinet model, the base is done the same everywhere. I do not recommend mounting the frame and guide rail under the door directly on the floor.

The fact is that the base is based on adjustable legs and with their help it will be easier for you to set the bottom plate strictly on the horizon, and this is necessary for the normal operation of the rollers. Plus, if the floors are wooden, then the adjustable base will be a good buffer.

The instruction is as follows: take the plate and screw the adjustable legs around the perimeter at a distance of 70 mm from the edge in increments of 500 - 700 mm. You don’t need to install the front bar covering the legs right away, you will install it at the very end, after installing the doors.

Step number 3. Assemble the frame

We proceed from the fact that the plates we have already cut to size. The frame can be assembled in two ways:

1. Accurate and more beautiful will be the assembly on the confirmers. Here you will need a drill for confirmants and furniture screws themselves. Just mark, drill and screw. The video below in this article shows everything in detail;
2. It will be easier, but not so beautiful, to assemble the frame on metal corners. There, the corners are screwed with ordinary wood screws directly to the plates. By the way, with such an assembly, the shelves can withstand a large load.

Step number 4. Mounting guides under the doors

It is not difficult to measure, cut and screw the guides from above and below with self-tapping screws. The problem is that these rails must be clearly above each other and mounted on a strictly horizontal base, that is, in level. A plumb bob is used for vertical orientation.

The bottom plate is exposed by means of adjustable legs. Put a bubble level on the edge of the stove and adjust according to it. If the upper rail is attached to the chipboard cover and everything is cut exactly, then when the lower horizon is set, the upper one is set by itself.

If the upper rail is attached to the ceiling and the ceiling is not completely flat, then wedges will have to be placed under this rail. Then the flaws will need to be covered with a molding or decorative strip.

Step number 5. Installing the doors

Now you need to put the doors in place. To do this, first start the upper rollers, and then insert the lower ones. Then you just have to adjust the lower rollers, for this there is a hole for the hexagon on the side, by turning the screw you can set the doors horizontally.

Conclusion

It is quite realistic to choose and assemble a three-door wardrobe according to the above recommendations. The video shows with your own eyes the intricacies of editing, if after reading and watching you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

To save on the assembly of the wardrobe, without turning to specialists, you can do it yourself. In addition to all the details, the furniture set should include instructions on how to assemble a 3-door wardrobe, which will help to assemble the wardrobe correctly and quickly.

Required Tools

Almost every cabinet model comes with the necessary bolts, nails and washers, but you need to prepare the tools yourself. To -coupe, you will need the following tools:

• Phillips screwdriver.
• Bit PZ2.
• Screwdriver straight.
• Screwdriver or drill.
• 4 mm drill for metal.
• Hammer.
• Level.
• Pliers.
• Stationery knife.
• Hex key.

Also, additional parts may be required to assemble a 3-door wardrobe. For example, if the floors are uneven, it is necessary to prepare the substrates in advance. Depending on the model, a confirmed and 6 mm drill may be required.

Assembly basics

There are standard rules for assembling a wardrobe:

1. Do not unpack all the parts at once, otherwise you can get confused and it will take a lot of time to find the necessary part.
2. It is necessary to carefully study the instructions on how to assemble a 3-door wardrobe before proceeding with the assembly.
3. Make sure all accessories are in place and match the size and color scheme.
4. Assembly is carried out in stages, starting from the bottom of the cabinet.
5. Mirrors and glass are installed last.
6. The space for the cabinet must be exactly the right size and not have openings or other obstacles when installing it.

Assembly example on the example of the wardrobe "Basya":

Assembly steps

First of all, the frame is assembled. It is necessary to connect the elements of the frame. To do this, it is necessary to insert the chopsticks into the prepared holes and screw the confirmations into them, with the help of which the frame is fixed. It is more convenient to connect cabinet parts in a supine form. You should start from the bottom shelf, so to speak, the bottom of the cabinet.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to place the partitions of the three-door cabinet. It is very easy to determine where the partitions are top and where the bottom is, since holes for dowels are provided in the lower part of the partition. Non-through holes are also provided on the bottom shelf (bottom of the cabinet), into which dowels are inserted, and only then we install partitions on them. It is worth noting that initially it is not worth fixing confirmations to the end, it is necessary to leave a free move.

In order to betray the rigidity of the structure and protect it from loosening, it is necessary to install. The wall must be reinforced with the laminated side out. The wall is fastened with small nails, which are driven in around the entire perimeter of the cabinet.

Special holes are prepared for each shelf, in which it is necessary to install the corners or other fasteners provided in the kit and it is on them that you need to install at the shelf. made with the help of corners or on confirmations.

After that, you can install the cabinet. Here it is important to align the structure and only after that it is necessary to tighten all the fasteners to the end. In order for the doors to open freely and not jam during operation of the cabinet, it is necessary to level it with a level. After that, you need to install the guide rails for the cabinet doors. Using a screwdriver, holes are made for fasteners around the entire perimeter of the rails. The holes should be chamfered for flush screws and 4 holes will need to be made for each plank. First you need to fix the bottom rail.

For the top rail, it is necessary to make holes in a checkerboard pattern in both slats. Screws are included in the wardrobe kit for fastening the slats. The distance from the front end of the top cover to the beginning of the rail edge must be at least 3 mm.

The next step is to install the rods and fittings inside the cabinet. First of all, we mark the attachment points for the holders, drill holes and tighten the screws. It is important to correctly install the mounts for the rods so that they are even. The fasteners are correctly installed or not, you can check with a level.

The final step is to install the doors. It is necessary to start installing doors from above, for which we insert doors into the upper rails, and then the end rollers are placed in the groove of the lower rail. Thus, all 3 doors are inserted in order, the main thing is not to confuse the front and inside sides.