Installation of the box under the socket or switch. Installing sockets in a pvc panel How to install a socket in a wall panel
The rooms of our apartments and houses have hidden electrical wiring and everything sockets and switches are installed inside the wall. In order to hide the entire mechanism, and so that only the cover or keys remain on top, it is necessary to smear or install mounting plastic boxes under them (often called socket boxes), which serve to fix sockets and switches in them and isolate wires and contacts from the wall.
Please note that this work must be done simultaneously with the electrical wiring before the walls are finished.
The installation process of the sockets is quite simple. and you can easily do it yourself. Depending on the type of building material, it is necessary to choose one of two principles for installing mounting boxes:
- For walls made of wood, drywall, PVC, MDF panels, etc., it is necessary to cut a hole with a special crown and then insert the socket into it and press it against the wall using self-tapping screws with paws.
- And in brick, concrete, silicate walls, the boxes are fixed on a quick-drying solution of gypsum, alabaster, gypsum plaster, etc.
Installation of a box for an outlet in concrete, brick, gas silicate.
It is necessary to make a hole under it with a puncher or drill and a special crown (in the figure below).
Recommend to buy crown with a diameter of 68 mm. Or 70 millimeters, designed for SDS-plus concrete. It is suitable for all types of walls, unlike a brick hole saw, which is designed only for drilling in non-solid building materials.
Marking must be done before drilling using a tape measure and a pencil, I simply mark the center for the crown drill throughout the apartment at the same distance from the floor, if it is even.
Remember that when drilling with a crown, rotary hammer or impact drill must be switched to drilling mode only, and not combined with slotting.
If you need to smear one or more boxes, then you can do without crowns and drill holes under them with a drill and knock out a niche of the required size along the outlined contour. In this case, the markup is made by outlining the contour of the socket box with a small margin. And on the sides of the knocked-out holes, in all rooms at the same distance from the floor, I draw the center of sockets or switches along the level. I am guided by these marks during the subsequent smearing of mounting boxes.
If you need to install not a single socket, but for example a block consisting of 2, 3 or 4 electrical sockets or in combination with telephone, TV or computer, then you need to buy a specially designed one-piece double, triple or quadruple block of boxes (examples in the picture below. )
I use single junction boxes most of the time at work.(top left in the picture), which can be made into blocks by inserting one into the grooves of the other. But for those who are not professional electricians, I do not recommend doing this, because without experience it is very difficult to smear such blocks, because they bend. Take a solid block for several places, believe me, this greatly simplifies the process and allows you to quickly and evenly smear!
After the hole is ready, we check that the mounting box fits freely into it, hiding flush with the wall. We knock out a hole on the side or on the back wall and put a cable or wires into it.
We take and dilute a gypsum or alabaster mixture on several places of application or one block, because these mixtures dry quickly. I am in my practice when it is required to cover a large number of boxes I spread tile adhesive or ROTBAND gypsum plaster in a bucket(Rotband), which do not dry up to an hour. And this allows you to smear more than a dozen socket boxes in one batch.
Before filling the hole with mortar, moisten it with water. Then a box is pressed into the filled hole, which should rise to the level of the wall.
The main thing to consider here is that it is better to drown her a little deeper than if it stuck out even a millimeter. It is important to observe this so that the socket fits snugly against the wall during installation. In addition, make sure that the holes for self-tapping screws or places for sliding legs, with which the socket or switch is attached, are at a vertical or horizontal level, otherwise they will become crooked during subsequent installation. A small skew is easily leveled, but a large one is not.
When making repairs indoors, we almost always face the need to perform a series of manipulations with sockets and switches - update old mechanisms, or move them to another place, add a few new points, or completely change all wiring along with electrical products.
In fact, installing outlets is not such a difficult thing to be sure to invite professionals. It does not require any special labor costs, nor the use of expensive special tools, a simple home master is quite capable of coping with the task on his own. We only need to seriously delve into a number of highlights and nuances on which the success of the enterprise depends heavily - this is what we will do today.
Preparatory work
Determination of terminal points, laying wires
Installation of sockets begins with laying wires. If you do not go into calculated details, we note that a three-core copper wire with a cross section of each conductor of 2.5 mm 2 should be connected to the sockets, the VVGng brand has proven itself well. Note that in rare cases, when you need to power some kind of powerful consumer (jacuzzi, electric stove, oven ...), then 4 mm wires also lead to it, but they often use a direct connection to the terminals, rather than sockets. Wiring in residential premises is hidden - in strobes, the conductor, even when double-insulated, must be enclosed in a protective self-extinguishing plastic corrugation (its diameter is 16 or 20 mm).
The location of the sockets, and accordingly the wire leads, must be carefully considered so that it is convenient to use electrical appliances and there are no installation problems. Everything is important here - from the height above the floor (now the generally accepted standard is 300 mm) to the position of the subsystem profiles (frames) and the number of sockets, types of electrical installation products in one frame. It would be most logical on paper to draw up a working plan for the location of sockets and outlets with geometric reference to walls and furniture, as well as indicate the composition of multi-station blocks.
Almost all manufacturers offer horizontal frames in which a maximum of 5 or 6 mechanisms can be placed, and vertical frames are available in two- or three-gang versions. Note that under one facade you can drive not only power sockets, but also switches, as well as all kinds of low-current sockets (telephone, Internet, acoustics, home communications, TV ...).
On one block of sockets, it is highly desirable to the extreme mechanism, we bring one power supply wire (if it has a cross section of at least 2.5 squares), we power the rest from it with a loop, this is allowed by the rules of the PUE. From the point of view of reliability, the option is considered ideal when a separate wire goes to each outlet from the distribution box or even from the shield, but then the cost of conductors and labor costs increase significantly.
A very important point - leave the wire with a margin, a "tail" of at least 150-200 mm should come out of the wall. Short leads greatly complicate installation.
Attention! Do not lead the wire out of the wall in the center of the outlet, as this is where the stabilizing drill bit is placed. It is better to release the conductor a few centimeters to the side (on solid mineral bases), or leave it behind the cladding until the installation of the installation boxes (for frame options).
Tools and consumables
As we have already said, there are no particular problems with the tool for installing sockets, it is inexpensive and almost a complete set of it is available in the arsenal of most more or less trained home craftsmen.
So, we need:
- bubble rack level, from 200-500 mm long (oversized work is not very convenient);
- roulette;
- thin screwdriver;
- mounting knife with a retractable blade;
- side cutters or pliers;
- pliers for stripping wires (preferably);
- a crown from a set for wood with a diameter of 68 mm (attention, not every set has such a size of equipment);
- screwdriver or drill;
- installation boxes;
- clamps "Wago" or similar.
Socket installation. First stage
Marking and cutting holes for boxes
On the wall, along the direction of the frame, along its axis (further we will talk about the socket block, as a more complex installation option), we draw a vertical or horizontal line. To do this, we must use the level. Now, according to our plan, we find the edge of the block and its center, mark these points on the resulting line. Best of all, the future block of sockets is perceived in space if you put together several necessary installation boxes and attach them to the wall in the installation area.
Most importantly, on the center line we mark the centers of each individual socket in the block. The approximate distance between them will be 68 mm.
We assemble the crown from the saw set, and cut at medium speed. It is very important here not to apply excessive force to the tool so that the equipment does not tear the material at the exit, since it will not be possible to securely fix the socket box on drywall with broken edges of the installation hole. The situation is a little easier if the installation is carried out on wood, MDF or other hard facing, but you need to work with plastic panels no less carefully, because of their susceptibility to cracking.
At this stage, beginners make many mistakes that are very difficult to correct later. The most common are non-compliance with the level, breaking edges, incorrect relative position of adjacent mounting holes. The first two causes of marriage are treated with a systematic increase in accuracy, but to solve the latter, you need to gain experience. To do this, we recommend that you practice marking and cutting out on an unnecessary piece of drywall.
Correctly drilled holes should not overlap each other, but there should not be a gap between them, only the edges of the circles touch. It is only then that we will cut the millimetric partition a little with a knife, if the configuration of the sockets so requires. The installation boxes enter into well-made holes easily and without distortions, otherwise the problem entails the curvature of the sockets, the complexity or complete impossibility of fixing the electrical installation mechanisms, problems with installing the front panel and top cover (the facade does not press against the wall, the plug comes into contact with difficulty).
Selection and installation of socket boxes
When installing electric points, a lot depends on the quality and type of installation boxes. It is not worth saving on these elements, especially since they are relatively inexpensive. A good socket box has dense body walls with a complete absence of sprue marks and sagging. It has a pronounced rigid front side, which prevents it from falling into the lining. Such boxes have large mounting tabs (not necessarily metal, polymeric materials also work well), which reliably cling to the cladding sheet at the back. An undoubted advantage will be functional perforation, which allows you to make holes for cable entry and wiring between sockets without extra effort.
It should be noted that the installation boxes of different manufacturers, as well as their sockets, are slightly different in shape, and this can sometimes cause serious installation difficulties, although general mutual unification is now in vogue. Therefore, it is best to purchase socket boxes from the company whose products you have chosen as the main electrical installation products, at least we recommend checking the compatibility of these elements if they are not from the same manufacturer.
In the installation boxes, using a knife, we remove the partitions that form when they are connected, as well as one (or several, if there are many conductors) plug for cable entry into the mounting cavity.
We assemble the socket boxes in one block, sometimes special connecting elements are used for this.
A group of socket boxes, there can be up to six of them, carefully insert into the already drilled holes, after passing the power wire into the last box. Before performing this operation, we recommend that you move the mounting feet slightly from the extreme position with the screws so that they do not turn out to be skewed and stalled, but are guaranteed to go along their grooves. This is especially true if the clamps are swivel. Then the paws begin to protrude beyond the circumference of the box, but in order not to damage the installation opening, the box should be squeezed a little in these places during installation.
We check the sockets installed in the holes horizontally and vertically, setting the level to the bottom or top of the front sides, since due to some noodles, skew can also be obtained here. Usually the sides in these places are cut off and line up in one line, you can still check the alignment of the mounting screws with a level.
Using a thin "Phillips" or small flat screwdriver, we tighten the screws that actuate the mounting tabs until the latter rest against the lining. Here you can not overdo it, so as not to squeeze the socket inward and not damage the contours of the hole.
At this point, the first stage of installing the sockets is completed, it remains to check the operability of the wiring and proceed to the painting work. Connection of wiring accessories and installation of facades is carried out after completion of all finishing operations.
Socket installation. Second phase
Stripping and wiring conductors inside the block
The first step is to strip the ends of the power wire. First you need to remove the top protective sheath from the cable. We take a knife and draw the tip of its blade along the sheath, without cutting through it (so as not to damage the insulation of individual conductors), but only making a “notch”. We move in the direction "from the box to the outside." Along the line of this notch, the sheath can be torn by pulling on the conductors. Many electricians free the cores from the outer sheath before installing the boxes - this is very convenient. You can disassemble the wire to the very base of the box, but without going beyond it towards the inner space of the wall.
Now you need to clean the edges of the conductors (they are usually marked with colors: brown, blue, yellow). The ideal tool for this is special stripping pliers, which work quickly, efficiently and safely. In extreme cases, you can use a knife. To do this, at a distance of 7-10 mm from the edge of the core, an incision is made in a circle and the insulation is pulled together with pliers or a pressed knife blade. It is impossible to use planing movements here and it is impossible to cut deep into the insulation, since this damages the thin copper wires of the conductor, and its nominal cross section is guaranteed to be underestimated.
The wires of the loop are prepared in a similar way, with which we connect in series the mechanisms of the sockets located in the same block. These are pieces of wire with a length of at least 200 mm and a cross section of 2.5 mm 2, they are completely freed from the sheath and stripped of insulation from both ends.
Loop elements with three conductors (line / phase, zero / neutral, ground) are laid through bulkheads. All their ends must go out in adjacent sockets and be connected to the terminals of neighboring sockets - this is a reliable, long-proven option known to many installers. But the electrical installation rules (PUE) require that the protective grounding conductor come to the outlet mechanism in parallel, as a separate branch. Therefore, as an option, such a branch is made in the socket, where the power of the entire unit comes. As a connecting element here, you can use a Wago-type clamp. If such a terminal block takes up too much space (for example, many posts in the block) and does not allow you to install a socket, then it is worth considering the use of a deep socket in this place.
Connecting and fixing the mechanism
First, you need to disassemble the socket - unscrew and remove the front cover, remove the entire front panel. If the socket is assembled with a screw terminal, then this screw should usually be unscrewed to free the hole in the terminal block. Starting from the edge of the block, we start the conductors on each outlet and tighten the screws as tightly as possible (some manufacturers use “quick” spring-loaded clamps here). When performing this operation, it is very important to observe the conditional polarity of the connection - make it a rule: the yellow grounding conductor is clamped in the middle, the phase (brown) is mounted on the left, zero (blue) will be on the right.
The connection of the loop through conductors is carried out through paired clamps (on many sockets there are 6 of them - two for each conductor). If the terminal block is single, with one hole, then you will have to twist the wires in pairs. Do this as tightly and carefully as possible, use pliers.
Be sure to check the reliability of the fit of the conductors - they just need to be tugged slightly. Weak contact under severe loads can cause wires to heat up, burn conductive parts, and even melt materials.
As it is connected, each mechanism is inserted into the installation box and temporarily fixed on the fixing screws. Here you need to pay attention so that the wires are correctly located at the bottom of the socket, as sometimes they are clamped by the mechanism, fall under the mounting foot and deform. Wires with rigid solid cores must first be folded with a “snake” so that they do not bend at an extreme angle during installation.
When all the wiring accessories of the unit are in place, you need to start aligning them along the line. The third time we must use the level, now we apply its body to the edges of the mechanism support. Each socket has an elongated recess for screws, so it can rotate around its axis in a certain range. Our task is to put the products in one line and make sure that it is strictly horizontal or vertical. To facilitate the setting of multi-station combinations, the calipers have recesses that correspond to each other.
Once you have figured out the positioning of the mechanisms, you can tighten the mounting screws. After that, with the help of other screws, we separate the mounting feet until they rest against the walls of the boxes. Few people use this fastening element now, but sometimes with their help you can slightly correct the mistakes made at the stage of marking and mounting the socket boxes. Some electricians simply remove these tabs, as often they, even in an undivided state, do not allow the socket to be installed in place and its plastic part to be assembled.
The final touch is the installation of the facade. First, a frame is applied to the sockets, then the front panels are inserted into their places through it and baited with screws. Only when all the covers are properly seated in the desired position, and the screws catch on the threads, can they be tightened one by one. If the multi-post frame is not properly pressed against the wall, do not try to solve the problem by over-tightening (as you can split it), but check the correct alignment of the mechanisms or the quality of the wall finish near the outlet block.
Upon completion of work, check the functionality of each socket. Power up the circuit and plug in any electrical appliance. The plug must move freely in and out of the contacts.
Instead of an epilogue
Not always sockets are installed on hollow walls. For their installation on plastered walls, special socket boxes "for concrete" are used. Then in the array it is necessary to first knock out holes with a diameter of less than 70 mm, with extensive amounts of work, a puncher and a special crown with carbide teeth come to the rescue. For mounting long blocks (4-6 devices), it makes sense to use a grinder with a diamond blade and cut a rectangular opening. To install concrete boxes in a drilled niche, a gypsum mortar is applied (advanced electricians either mix alabaster with putty, or use Perlfix-type glue), and then insert the sockets, position them relative to the front plane and fix them with wedges or front plates. The technology is no different.
By the same principle as sockets (from the point of view of mechanics), switches and other electrical installation products are mounted. The differences there are only in the electrical part - the order and options for connecting conductors, methods of attaching facades.
Separately, it is worth mentioning such work as “transferring an outlet”. Such operations are highly undesirable, since they are associated with an atypical geometry for laying an additional cable, and also due to the fact that it needs to be “built up”. But if it is not possible to stretch a new wire from the junction box, then you need to make a branch inside the socket of the existing outlet. The connection of wires must be done as in the distribution box - either by twisting together with welding / soldering, or through a high-quality quick-clamp terminal block. One way or another, the donor outlet cannot be completely removed and walled up, even if it is not needed, so that there is free access to the junction through the removable facade.
As you can see, there is nothing supernatural in this work. Don't be scared, well, there are not so many problems for one master, we just tried to touch on all the pitfalls that you might encounter with a lack of experience. However, do not forget that there are no trifles in electrical installation; extreme concentration and accuracy are needed here.
Turishchev Anton, rmnt.ru
Sockets are usually installed on the walls. Although there are cases of installing socket groups both in the floor (when, according to the design decision, the TV is located in the middle of the room or room) and on the ceiling (if you need to connect a projector or TV hanging from the ceiling on a vertical bracket).
In such cases, the sockets are fixed according to the same principle, only the cabling to the socket should be taken into account. The socket itself is mounted in a special box, or an external socket is installed.
Installation of sub-socket boxes in the apartment is carried out during the period of electrical wiring. When all the wires in the apartment are already laid out, and the walls are plastered, it remains only to install sockets.
To do this, it is necessary to fix all the socket boxes. The openings for them should already be ready. Apertures are drilled with a special metal, round nozzle with victorious tips. Then the remains of concrete are removed with a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spatula.
Boxes can be fixed with dowels, or you can mix alabaster and lubricate the openings with it. Before installing the boxes, the wires must be brought inside.
After doing such actions, it remains to connect the sockets. To do this, we clean the wires and insert them into the socket terminals. Modern wiring basically has three wires (phase, zero, ground). We connect the phase and zero to the terminal blocks and clamp, and the ground to the bus.
We install the socket in the socket of the box and, using a screwdriver, unclench them. When the base of the outlet is in place, it remains to screw the covers.
Drywall walls are a modern and lightweight material for installing partition walls in an apartment or house. Accordingly, there are technologies for pulling wires in these walls and installing electrical outlets.
Fixing boxes for sockets for plasterboard specific. It does not look like boxes designed for concrete walls. The fastener consists of two helical rods, at the end of which there are small plates.
The principle of operation of the fastener provides for the fixation of the box as a result of the movement of the plate along the stem upwards. Activation of the movement of the plate, rotates the rods with a screwdriver.
Before installing the box on a plasterboard wall, wires are inserted into it. When the box is securely clamped in the wall, a socket or a socket group consisting of several sockets is installed.
The phase and zero wires are clamped into the terminals, and the ground wire is attached to the busbar inside the outlet. The ground wire is usually yellow or green/yellow.
The base of the socket is clamped in the box using spacers with a screwdriver. Then it remains to install the cover on the socket, holding the screw in the center of the socket.
Plastic panels are used as a finishing interior material. They are used for installation on walls in kitchens, bathrooms, corridors. Plastic panels can be of various colors and sizes.
To install a socket on plastic panels, you must:
- - the place of installation of the socket on the plastic panel must be outlined with a marker, measuring its exact location with a tape measure;
- - then you need to de-energize the room where the panels with the socket are installed;
- - install the box under the outlet. Don't forget to run the wires inside the box. We fix the box itself in the wall so that it becomes flush with the panels;
- - to install the socket on a plastic panel, it is necessary to cut out the marked place with a sharp knife or a hacksaw. If the house has a round crown for plastic, you can use it;
- - the plastic panel must be installed on the frame;
- - after installing the plastic panel, install the socket;
- - remove the top cover from the socket by unscrewing the fixing screw;
- - in the lower base of the socket we start the wires, install them in the terminal blocks and clamp;
- - install the socket in the box, opening the expansion fasteners;
- - it remains to fix the upper part of the outlet on the installation site.
The socket box is a metal, and more often a plastic cup, into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical work. Installation of this product is not difficult, but for each of the wall materials (brick, concrete, gypsum or wood), installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket in a concrete, brick, wooden and plasterboard wall, providing visual examples of photos, video instructions and a brief description of each technology.
What to pay attention to before installation
Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket. To date, the following varieties of so-called glasses for sockets and switches are on sale:
Having chosen the appropriate product option, you can proceed to the preparatory work, which we will talk about now!
Insertion preparation
So, in order to install a socket box with your own hands, you must first prepare the following set of materials and tools:
- Perforator or electric drill;
- A crown on gypsum, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be chased) or a drill bit;
- Building level;
- Marker;
- Spatula and gypsum putty (if drywall or wood, then no need);
- Chisel and hammer.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to the installation of the socket in the wall. Now we will briefly look at how to insert and secure a glass under the outlet in each of the existing wall options.
Mounting technologies
In concrete and brick
If you need to install a socket in a concrete or brick wall, then you need to proceed as follows:
- Make markings on the surface using a building level and a marker in accordance with the wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at its own discretion, the norms of SNiP and GOST are not specified at the moment. All you need is to put a cross in a suitable place (the center of the future hole), lean the socket in the center and circle it with a marker.
- Using a perforator and a suitable bit, drill the strobe 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are about to install. If there is no special cutter at hand, simply drill a group of holes with a drill with a drill bit in a circle and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully make a square hole with a grinder with a diamond disc.
- When you manage to make a round strobe, clean it from the inside, and then try on the socket so that it fits well into the seat and there are no further difficulties with installation. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and bring the wires inside.
- Dilute the solution in order to smear the socket in a concrete or brick wall. A good solution can be obtained from gypsum putty, alabaster and water.
- Moisten the hole and use a spatula to pour the solution inside, as shown in the photo. After that, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, while ensuring that the screws on the sides are strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket cannot be installed evenly).
- Seal the edges and remove any excess mortar so that the glass is clean and ready for further electrical work after the putty has set.
In such a simple way, you can independently install a socket box in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to see clearly the whole essence of the installation.
Video tutorial on fixing a block of glasses in a monolith
in drywall
Mounting the socket box in a drywall partition is an order of magnitude easier. Here it is no longer necessary to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the strobe with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that easily fix the socket in drywall. 
In order to install a glass in a plaster wall yourself, you need to follow these steps:
- Apply markings on the surface by analogy with the previous technology. We examined in detail the layout of the drywall wall when we talked about.
- Cut a hole in the bottom for the wires and insert the product inside the strobe.
- Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is firmly fixed inside.
How to mount a socket in drywall
That's all you need to do to install a socket box in a drywall wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a beginner in electrics can install the product. We draw your attention to the fact that if the gypsum partition is additionally tiled, you need to act a little differently. The video below shows the technology for attaching a glass under ceramic tiles.
How to install on tiles
The second way to make a block of sockets in a tile
How to install a socket in a PVC panel? The installation process is simple and does not require special skills. The advantage of plastic panels is:
- ease of installation;
- easily hides wall irregularities and external electrical wiring;
- do not require additional care; moisture resistant.
Installation process in PVC panel
To complete the installation you will need:
- socket box (preferably made of metal);
- socket (preferably outdoor).
Installation of sockets in the PVC panel is carried out as follows:
- 1. It is recommended to use a socket hole bit.
- 2. Next, a crown is used, a recess is made. The slats, more often, are attached to the crate, 3 cm of a centimeter you need to pull out the socket.
- 3. Then the wires are connected.
Installation of external sockets is easier: the wire is removed, markings are made in the right place, drilled through the lamella, dowels are driven in, the thickness of the crate and plastic lamellas is taken into account, the screws are twisted, then the wires are connected, at the end the cover is attached.
In the same way, you can install a socket on a balcony in a PVC panel.
