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Water heated floor on a wooden base: problems that you will have to face and how to get around them. How to make a warm floor on wooden logs with your own hands How to make a heated water wooden floor

Among all types of heating, the installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is perhaps the most complex and difficult. When laying, it is required to take into account the features of the building, choose the optimal type of flooring and strictly follow the phased installation plan.

Is water heating a wooden floor possible?

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the issue of heating. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the peculiarity of the operation of a wooden house.

So, for example, it is forbidden to heat the floors above 30 degrees. The wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed, turns into dust. Therefore, a water-heated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source should be used for this purpose.

A cake of a warm water floor in a wooden country house greatly limits the possibility of using a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be laid dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, it should be noted that some popular finishing materials: laminate, parquet board - when heated above 25 ° C, they begin to emit toxic formaldehyde fumes.

Most manufacturers of heating equipment take into account the need for the simultaneous use of two heating circuits with different heating intensities, providing customers with boilers with the ability to connect heating radiators and underfloor heating.

Variants of the device of a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of laying method is selected depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

Common mounting methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. You can lay the mats on a flat subfloor. To do this, pre-trim the surface with plywood flooring or QSB - plates. The modular type floor does not require the use of cement mixtures. From above, polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the flooring.
• Installation of warm concrete water floors over wooden structures. Before installation, provide maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively with ready-made compositions with a short drying period.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of a warm water floor system. With the help of cutters, the machine cuts out recesses for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to function as mats. As a result, the cost of flooring components is reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the complexity of the process. But with a specialized tool, installation time can be minimized.

Laying water heated floors on a wooden floor can be done by other methods. There is the following way. In a wooden frame, a pipeline is simply laid under the logs. The plank floor is disassembled, the water circuit is laid, after which the flooring is laid back.

To protect the tree from moisture as much as possible, the water circuit is laid in a special corrugation. The corrugation protects against the effects of water even in the event of leakage.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

The device of a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is the special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Practice has shown that the best option would be to use pipes made of polypropylene.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

The maximum length of the water circuit should not exceed 70 m. If this is not enough for the heated area, so-called water floor laying zones are created. To ensure uniform flow to each heating circuit, a water manifold is installed.

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

Traditionally, the following types of flooring are used:

• Ceramic tile– the advantage of ceramics is the rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use is limited to hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be poured with a screed, or covered with a cement-bonded particle board.
• Laminate and parquet board– there are two types of laying water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared strobes. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the installation method. The only drawback of the floor covering is the impossibility of heating the surface above 25°C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a water-heated floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying boards over the water circuit. The solution does not require significant financial investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally lay linoleum or laminate.

1. Perforator.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting rebar.
4. Building level.

To work with wooden surfaces, a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill are useful.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

The design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to problems in operation. The appearance of condensate and leakage is critical.

The pipe laying system does not allow the following violations:

Underfloor heating for a wooden house is a smart solution. Subject to the recommendations regarding installation, you can avoid possible difficulties in the process of future operation.

It is very difficult to overestimate the comfort of using underfloor heating systems, but many people have a strong opinion that a water-heated floor in a wooden house is an unnecessary element. This is not a completely correct opinion, despite the fact that wood is an excellent heat insulator and floors made on a wooden base will not withstand significant loads, there is a technology that allows you to install a warm water floor on a wooden base. In this material, we will consider this method of implementation in detail.

Difficulties you may encounter

Water heated floors in a wooden house are designed to transfer thermal energy from the coolant to the floor base, and then the air in the room is heated. A traditionally made screed easily copes with the task, but a classic screed cannot be carried out over wooden floors.

Wooden floors do an excellent job of insulating heat and do not let heat into the underground, but due to the lightness of their construction, they are not able to withstand the pressure of the screed, since one square meter of the screed exerts a pressure equal to three hundred kilograms.

Another negative point is the requirement for the implementation of the substrate, which also negatively affects heat transfer.

But all these seemingly insurmountable obstacles to the implementation of water heated floors in a wooden house have been eliminated with the introduction of new technology.

This technology has the following features:

• Significantly reduced weight of the mounted structure;
• Implemented heat transfer from the coolant to the floor covering and beyond;
• Installation of the substrate is carried out only under linoleum, carpet or tile;
• The term for arranging the coating is maximally shortened;
• The time required for the full maturation of the screed is completely leveled, which is approximately 28 days;

Laid water-heated floors on a wooden floor and covered with a final layer can be used immediately. Also, this scheme allows you to carry out current repairs of any structural unit, and this is a very significant advantage compared to the classical installation scheme.

Laying method

Installation of this system is carried out by the flooring method. Pipes with coolant are placed in specialized gutters, which are made of planks on the subfloor.

For reliable accumulation and proper distribution of heat over the entire surface of the floor, metal plates are mounted with recesses already made for pipes, into which they are placed.

This type of plates, in addition to its main function, also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure, which means that, in principle, you can do without a substrate.

If tiles or linoleum are used as the final coating, then it is still desirable to perform the substrate. GVL sheets with the lowest possible thermal insulation parameters can be used as a substrate.

Laying pipes for underfloor heating

This type of work can be done in two ways.

The first one is the simplest, but, unfortunately, quite expensive. Already fully prepared modules from chipboard are purchased, in which the necessary recesses have already been made. In addition to chipboard modules, this kit also includes special metal plates, pipes and fasteners. The only thing left for you to do is to assemble according to the instructions.

But in order to save money, many craftsmen prepare the panels on their own. And also instead of sheets of chipboard, stuffing of rails is performed. Planks of the required size are cut from boards or plywood sheets. The gaps between the cut planks must strictly correspond to the thickness of the lath, since in the mounted grooves the pipes must not only be fixed, but also remain intact with the likely displacement of the wood.

The dimensions of the guide bars entirely depend on the required distance between the pipes in the implemented scheme. Thus, if the snake laying method is chosen in increments of thirty centimeters, a twenty-two millimeter board should have a width of 278 mm with an outer diameter of the pipe equal to 17 mm.

Since there are absolutely no difficulties in the installation of finished panels, we will further consider the method using rails.

We carry out laying of a warm floor on a rack base

Before proceeding with the installation work, it is necessary to prepare the base.

To do this, you need to carefully inspect the floor, you also need to open the floorboards in several places and examine the state of the log, if necessary, then replace the damaged structural components.

The next step is the installation of insulating material. For these purposes, a polyethylene film is usually used, which is overlapped and interconnected with ordinary adhesive tape.

According to a pre-compiled scheme, the places for connecting pipes are marked, as well as places for mounting controls for the entire system.

Then the installation of the thermal floor along the logs is carried out. Guides are mounted and channels for the pipeline are left directly between them.

The heating pipe is laid directly into the formed channels. Next, the pipe is connected to the distribution manifold.

Next, the mandatory stage of pressure testing is carried out, for this the connected system is filled with water under pressure that is one and a half times higher than the working one and is kept in this state for 24 hours. If after this time no leaks are found, then you can proceed to further repairs.

The next step is to lay the final coating that you have chosen for this room.

Nuances to consider

Any job has its own subtleties and limitations, the following is a list of points that you need to consider:

• The maximum length of the working circuit is 70 meters, if a pipe of this length does not allow covering the entire area of ​​​​the room, then a second heating circuit must be organized;
• Reliable waterproofing. In a wooden house, the presence of excellent moisture insulation is a guarantee that your floor will last a long time without repair. Waterproofing must be carried out in several layers.

Heated floors are one of the mandatory attributes of a comfortable home. As a heat source in such floors, plastic pipes with hot water circulating in it or a heating electric cable filled with a cement-sand mixture screed are most often used. In houses with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs or with a shallow underground, such warm floors are implemented quite easily, which cannot be said about houses with wooden floors.

The main problem is the impossibility of installing a screed on a light wooden structure due to the large weight of concrete and insufficient strength of wood. The problem of the second plan is the relatively low ignition temperature of the tree, which excludes the possibility of strong heating of the constituent elements of the warm floor. Nevertheless, the task is quite solvable and, despite all the complexity of the technological plan, it is possible to arrange electric heated floors in wooden houses, and without applying excessive efforts.

Heating elements for electric underfloor heating

There are several types of electric heaters designed for underfloor heating - moreover, they have a low dead weight and do not require a concrete screed as a base. This:

• sheet infrared film heaters;
• foil mats;
• core heating mats;
• cable mats or cable laid on special mounting plates.

As a basic element of the heating system, it is advisable to use warm floors based on any of these heaters only in small rooms with permanent residence - they can warm the air to a comfortable temperature in a large cottage only in a warm southern climate ...

Film floors and foil mats

Film heaters are laminated strips of carbon-graphite mixture and can be used not only for underfloor heating, but also for hanging on walls and even ceilings. When the power supply is connected, each such “panel” begins to emit in the infrared range, which leads to heating of objects in the room, as well as walls and ceilings. From them, heat is transferred to the surrounding air.

The undoubted advantage of a film underfloor heating is its extreme ease of installation and the possibility of laying it under any floor covering or even just under a carpet. Can be laid under large furniture. In addition, infrared radiation is the fastest way to heat a room. But it is still a relatively expensive type of heating, rather "gluttonous" in terms of electricity consumption.

Foil mats are a type of film underfloor heating. More precisely - a hybrid of film and cable, which has almost all the advantages of the first and is devoid of the disadvantages of the second type of heaters.

Rod mats

Rod underfloor heating is a set of tubes connected in parallel, filled with a special mixture - carbon. It has a small (less than 1 cm) thickness and high strength. The most economical in terms of energy consumption, but also the most expensive of the types of electric underfloor heating.

However, the high cost of rod mats is fully justified by their advantages: rods filled with carbon have a self-regulating effect, and therefore are not afraid of being “locked” by massive furniture, for example. In addition, such mats are practically not afraid of accidental mechanical damage - due to the parallel connection with each other, a malfunction of one rod does not cause failure of the entire mat.

Cable mats

Cable mats are the most common type of electric underfloor heating. They are a long heating cable laid and fixed on a mesh base. Laying is usually carried out with a “snake”, while the thickness of such a mat does not exceed 10 mm. Relatively cheap, but also rather capricious in operation.

Such mats are laid on free areas of the floor, otherwise the cable will most likely fail due to local overheating. Cable mats are afraid of mechanical damage and are practically unsuitable for repair.

Dry installation in a wooden house

Installation of an electric underfloor heating in a wooden house in the absence of a concrete base can be carried out in one of two ways: on a solid plank draft (or even finishing) floor or directly on the logs. The first method is much simpler, but unsuitable for laying cable and rod mats due to their relatively large thickness.

Regardless of the choice of the “dry” method, without a screed installation, it should be borne in mind that the maximum allowable specific power of foil heater mats is 130 W per square meter of the heated area. The specific power of an infrared film can be twice as much; for a resistive cable, the limitation is much tougher - no more than 10 W / m.

Finish coat

The ideal floor covering for heating cables and foils is ceramic tiles. Unfortunately, its laying on a wooden base is practiced extremely rarely, since it is associated with great technological difficulties. Nevertheless, modern floor heating systems work quite effectively even when laid under laminate, linoleum and even carpet - you just need to take into account the chemical composition of the coatings: some of them, even with slight heating, can emit harmful, toxic compounds.

But, given that the maximum temperature of the heating elements of the warm floor almost never exceeds 50 degrees, the main requirement for flooring is good thermal conductivity. Laminated board and linoleum of the lowest price category do not meet this condition well, but with proper skills they can be used.

Dry laying on a solid surface

On a solid wooden floor used as a base, film heaters or cable mats are laid as one of the “sandwich” layers. Directly on a wooden covering (board, plywood, chipboard or OSB-plates), if necessary, a waterproofing layer of any mastic with the appropriate characteristics is applied. A heat-reflecting coating is laid on it, which simultaneously plays the role of thermal insulation; most often it is foil foamed polystyrene. Then an electric floor is laid, and a fine floor covering is mounted on it.

If necessary (for a laminated board, for example), a substrate is laid between the heating surface of the underfloor heating elements and the finish coating - but this is done quite rarely: such a gasket conducts heat very poorly.

Similarly, foil cable mats are laid, only for them the heat-reflecting layer of the “sandwich” is not required - this role is played by the foil base of the mat. It is only necessary to take into account that almost all manufacturers of electric underfloor heating produce all the layers necessary for laying the "sandwich" - and guarantee the conformity of the declared characteristics of the heaters only when using branded materials and recommended laying technologies.

Laying on logs

Installation of a warm floor on logs is done a little differently. From the point of view of building technologies, it is somewhat more complicated than the previous one - it is difficult to use the main load-bearing logs of the floor or ceilings, and it is necessary to lay additional bars on the black floor as the second log. However, if the subfloor is hemmed to the main lags from below, they can be used as reference points for laying mats or laying an electric floor heating cable.

Between the upper plane of the lag and the subfloor, thermal insulation is necessarily arranged, and, if necessary, waterproofing in front of it. A mounting grid is laid on the upper planes of the log, and a heating cable or heating mats are already attached to it. The height of the space between the upper plane of the thermal insulation and the mounting grid (that is, the height of the lag) must be at least 30 mm in order to avoid overheating of the wooden elements.

When laying the cable on the mounting plates, there is no need for a grid - the plates are mounted directly on the logs. The order of the other layers is preserved. The heat-reflecting layer is usually not used when installing electric underfloor heating on logs - its role is played by the top layer of thermal insulation; however, laying such a layer will not be superfluous.

Cabling

In both cases, the cable is recommended to be laid in such a way that it does not intersect with the surface of the lag. If this cannot be avoided, at the intersections it is necessary to make cuts to the top of the thermal insulation and cover the slots with a layer of foil. In this case, the cable should not have physical contact with the lower plane of the finishing coating - it should heat the air cushion formed between the lags.

The thickness of the finishing coating should not exceed 24 mm, otherwise the efficiency of the electric underfloor heating begins to decline sharply. Carpet is used only in case of urgent need - it has a very low thermal conductivity ... linoleum is also recommended to be used as a last resort - the risk of mechanical damage at the same time damaging the heating elements of the warm floor is very high.

Installation of a regulator for electric underfloor heating

The control of the electric floor in a wooden house, as in all other cases, should be carried out by an external thermostat. The place of its installation is chosen with the condition of the possibility of unhindered operational access, but at the same time as close as possible to the managed area. This is due to the following considerations:

• even an electric mat or cable heating a relatively small area of ​​the floor is a rather powerful consumer of electricity, and the shorter the wires leading to it, the higher the reliability of the entire system as a whole;
• the logic of the controller is determined by the readings of a temperature sensor placed in the immediate vicinity of the heating element; the shorter the wire from the sensor to the regulator, the smaller the error in the sensor readings and the more precisely the set temperature is maintained;
• it is more convenient to evaluate and correct the temperature of the floor surface with direct physical contact with it - it will be difficult to do this from another room.

Electrical connection

The connection of the electric floor to the power supply line must be carried out by a protected RCD separate line with the appropriate cross-section of the conductors - usually 4 square meters is enough. mm. When using a metal mounting mesh, it must be grounded; it is recommended and, if possible, to ground the foil surface of the heat-reflecting layer.

When laying film sheets or cable mats in sections of fixed sizes, it is better to connect them in parallel - in this case, a malfunction of one of them will not affect the operation of the entire floor as a whole and will only lead to a slight decrease in its temperature.

Related videos

In fact, no matter what skeptics say, arranging a warm water floor in a wooden house made of timber is not only a possible, but also a reasonable solution to the issue of heating. Of course, you will have to take into account certain nuances associated with the peculiarity of the operation of a wooden house.

So, for example, it is forbidden to heat the floors above 30 degrees. The wooden surface under the influence of high temperatures is easily deformed, turns into dust. Therefore, a water-heated floor on a wooden base must not be connected to the central heating circuit, but a separate heat source should be used for this purpose.

A cake of a warm water floor in a wooden country house greatly limits the possibility of using a concrete screed. The heating system will have to be laid dry, which also creates certain inconveniences.

When choosing a floor covering, it should be noted that some popular finishing materials: laminate, parquet board - when heated above 25 ° C, they begin to emit toxic formaldehyde fumes.

Variants of the device of a wooden floor with water heating

There are several options for arranging underfloor heating in a wooden house. The choice of laying method is selected depending on the technical characteristics of the building.

Common mounting methods are:

• Mats - represent ready-made structures with grooves for laying a water circuit. You can lay the mats on a flat subfloor. To do this, pre-trim the surface with plywood flooring or QSB - plates. The modular type floor does not require the use of cement mixtures. From above, polypropylene pipes close the DSP, lay the flooring.
• Installation of warm concrete water floors over wooden structures. Before installation, provide maximum insulation of wooden elements from moisture. All work is carried out exclusively with ready-made compositions with a short drying period.
• Milling a wooden floor for pipes of a warm water floor system. With the help of cutters, the machine cuts out recesses for the passage of the pipeline. The wooden base begins to function as mats. As a result, the cost of flooring components is reduced. The disadvantage of milling is the complexity of the process. But with a specialized tool, installation time can be minimized.

Laying water heated floors on a wooden floor can be done by other methods. There is the following way. In a wooden frame, a pipeline is simply laid under the logs. The plank floor is disassembled, the water circuit is laid, after which the flooring is laid back.

How to make water floors in a wooden house

The device of a warm water floor on a wooden floor with your own hands is practically no different from the structures used in other buildings. The exception is the special safety measures necessary to protect wooden surfaces from moisture.

Practice has shown that the best option would be to use pipes made of polypropylene.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

Which floor coverings are suitable

The choice of material is limited both by subsequent operation and by the method of manufacturing the heating system.

Traditionally, the following types of flooring are used:

• Ceramic tiles - the advantage of ceramics is the rapid heating of the surface and high heat transfer. Use is limited to hallway, bathroom, kitchen and non-residential areas. When choosing ceramic tiles, heated floors must be poured with a screed, or covered with a cement-bonded particle board.
• Laminate and parquet board - there are two types of laying water heating on wooden floors: on mats or prepared strobes. Laminate or parquet can be laid regardless of the installation method. The only drawback of the floor covering is the impossibility of heating the surface above 25°C.
• Ordinary board - you can also lay a water-heated floor on wooden beams with your own hands, laying boards over the water circuit. The solution does not require significant financial investments. This method is chosen if it is not possible to reduce the distance to the ceiling. Subsequently, it is possible to additionally lay linoleum or laminate.

What tool is required for installation

To install the water circuit you will need:

1. Roulette.
2. Plastic pipes and fittings.
3. A set of locksmith and construction tools.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Milling machine.

Installation of a concrete water-heated floor on wooden floors will additionally require the presence of:

1. Perforator.
2. Rules.
3. Angle grinder for cutting rebar.
4. Building level.

To work with wooden surfaces, a set of cutters and drills, a powerful drill are useful.

What mistakes should be avoided during installation

The design features on a wooden base are that any violations and changes in the phased installation of heating will lead to problems in operation. The appearance of condensate and leakage is critical.

The pipe laying system does not allow the following violations:

Underfloor heating for a wooden house is a smart solution. Subject to the recommendations regarding installation, you can avoid possible difficulties in the process of future operation.

Water heated floor in a wooden house and with wooden floors

Underfloor heating systems in recent years have gained immense popularity among both owners of cottages and owners of private houses. A water-heated floor in a wooden house has many nuances, since concrete is rarely used to build cottages to create a strong and high-quality foundation. For the construction of such buildings and structures, more traditional materials and methods are often used.

Few people can be surprised by the presence of a concrete screed and low-temperature heating installed in it. Thanks to numerous positive reviews, such systems have often been used as an additional and even the main heating system for individual rooms and the whole house as a whole. Until recently, many homeowners wondered: is it possible to install water-heated floors in wooden houses with wooden floors, because they are simply not designed for a weight of more than 200 kg per square meter. The optimal scheme of such a device appeared relatively recently.

General picture of the system

Is it possible to install such a system

Despite what some experts say, installing such equipment is not only possible, but also a very reasonable solution. In order to properly install a warm floor in a private house, it is necessary to understand some of the features of its installation and the performance characteristics of the house itself, built of wood. For example, do not heat the work surface more than 30°C. This is due to the fact that the tree does not accept high temperatures and their impact on it leads to deformation. Over time, such material will turn into dust and simply crumble.

No tie needed

Therefore, the use of underfloor heating is better not in combination with central heating, but with a separate heat source. The use of a boiler implies the creation of a "pie" of underfloor heating, which will not allow the use of an additional layer of screed. In this case, the installation will have to be carried out dry, then beige directly on the beams and this is extremely inconvenient. In this case, completely different materials can act as floor coverings, such as:

However, when such materials are heated to 25°C or more, they begin to produce fumes containing formaldehyde.

Some manufacturers understand the need to use several heating circuits at the same time. In this case, we are talking about different intensity of surface heating. They produce a series of boilers that allow such connections for underfloor heating and heating radiators.

Types of structures intended for wooden houses

There are several ways to equip underfloor heating. If we are talking exclusively about warm water floors, then pipe installation can be carried out in the following ways:

• Using the classic method, in which pipes are laid directly into the concrete solution.

Lag tie scheme

• But the use of a dry installation method involves laying pipes directly along the logs or existing floor beams.

Laying pipes along the lags

A layer of cement screed is laid on top of such a contour, the thickness of which should be at least 25 cm. Before making a choice in favor of one method or another, one should study in more detail the design and main characteristics of wooden houses. Concrete floor can be poured on the first floor. It will play the role of a ceiling leading to the basement. In this case, a warm water floor should be laid directly under the screed, and not reinvent the wheel.

The top layer can be any flooring, up to ordinary wooden boards. However, this will lead to additional costs, since the absence of a concrete base will complicate the process of installing the system. But if there are wooden floors in the house, then it is recommended to use an exclusively dry installation method.

This is because:

1. The weight of the concrete base is impressive. It puts a significant load on the wooden beams, which may not support the weight of such material. In addition to warm water floors in a wooden house, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the furniture.
2. If a wooden house is built correctly, then it should "breathe" on its own, performing the function of the lungs of the house. If the air is too dry or, on the contrary, very humid, then over time the material may lead. The consequences can be very significant, as this leads to cracking of the existing screed. To avoid such a result, a number of important measures should be taken that could compensate for the subsequent expansion of the contour. In addition to additional costs, this is fraught with complicated installation. If cracks have already begun in the base, it is impossible to stop them.
3. Particular attention should be paid to buildings made of wooden beams, which are very popular in modern construction. Often the material used is not fully dried. Over time, it will begin to dry out, which will inevitably lead to deformation or complete destruction of the concrete layer. A warm water floor will not help to avoid this problem.

Underfloor heating under beams - general image

System device

1. Boiler used for heating. If the choice fell on water floors, then it is possible to use a solid fuel, electric or gas equipped boiler. They are practical and quite comfortable. Their use implies the absence of a constant supply of fuel, which is used in wood and solid fuel boilers.
2. If you plan to create a really warm house, then it is recommended to use combined systems that will allow you to heat both batteries and the floor covering. Its temperature regime may differ, since the temperature in the radiators can reach up to 60°C, however, for wooden coverings, 30°C is considered the maximum. If this condition is not met, the tree will crack pretty soon.

How to make underfloor heating in a wooden house: device and installation options

Underfloor heating is an invention of the 20th century. Our great-grandfathers did not have a heating electric cable and gas boilers. However, they came up with their own way of heating. To do this, they used the walls of buildings. While laying, they left channels in them for the movement of hot furnace gases.

Today, there is no need to resort to such tricks. You can make warm floors in a wooden house with minimal effort and money.

The choice of a heating heating system is very simple:

• Electric cable or mats with flat conductors;
• Underfloor heating based on plastic pipes with a liquid heat carrier.

Both heating options have earned positive reviews. They are equal in terms of comfort and heat dissipation, but not the same in terms of energy cost. Electricity is much more expensive than gas, so a heating cable for underfloor heating is best used in small rooms: bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. For bedrooms and living rooms, a liquid system of pipes, a gas or solid fuel boiler is best suited.

A lot has been written and said about the fact that underfloor heating is better than radiators.

We only note its most important advantages:

• Optimal heat distribution. The comfort temperature zone coincides with the living space (from the floor surface to a height of 1.7 meters). During battery operation, the air under the ceiling warms up the most.
• A radiator heating system activates the movement of dust to a greater extent than a warm floor.
• In terms of interior aesthetics, underfloor heating outperforms radiators.

Features of underfloor heating (water and electric) in a wooden house

The technology of laying a water-heated floor in a wooden house depends on the type of flooring. If the first floor and basement are covered with reinforced concrete panels, then the heating system is made according to the "classic" scheme:

• leveling mortar screed;
• insulation (extruded polystyrene foam, perlite concrete);
• heating cable or plastic pipes;
• leveling screed covering the warm floor;
• finishing coating (tile, parquet, laminate).

It is more difficult to make a warm floor when wooden beams are used to cover the basement and the first floor. In this case, there is no solid base, so the structure is assembled according to one of two options:

Option number 1

• from below, a board is knocked to the beams to support the insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, ecowool, perlite);
• having laid the thermal insulation, plastic pipes are attached to the side faces of the beams;
• cutouts are made in the beams for passing pipes;
• they lay a fine wooden floor from tongue-and-groove boards or a rough one for laying parquet or laminate.

Option number 2

• thick plywood or OSB board (15-20 mm) is laid along the beams;
• wooden bars with a section of 50x50mm are attached to the coating;
• insulation is laid between the bars;
• lay a material that reflects heat (aluminum foil);
• pipes are placed on top of the thermal insulation, fixing them to the bars;
• mount a draft floor from a board, gypsum-fiber sheets (gvl), particle boards or plywood;
• lay the finish coating (ceramic tiles, parquet, laminate).

In advanced systems mounted on wooden floors, heat-distributing metal plates are used. They perform two functions: they form channels for pipes and reflect heat.

To simplify installation, you can use ready-made factory chipboards with milled recesses for pipes. In addition, on the market you can find panels made of dense foam with stamped channels (foam shield). In them, pipe wiring is fixed quickly and easily.

In the case of using foam, there is no need to attach a board to the beams to support the thermal insulation. Rigid insulation in this case is attached directly to the surface of the subfloor. After that, a substrate is spread on it under the laminate or an adhesive solution is applied, then a reinforcing mesh and tiles are laid.

The main disadvantage of prefabricated structures (foam board and milled chipboard) is the high cost. Therefore, some home masters use a cheaper channeling method. They stuff wooden planks on the base, leaving gaps between them for laying pipes.

Instead of expensive thermoplastic plates, you can use affordable aluminum foil (this method is suitable for both water and electric underfloor heating).

Planks are made from planed boards or cut from moisture-resistant plywood. Their thickness must be greater than the diameter of the pipeline (pipe 17 mm - rail 30 mm). To improve heat transfer, the channel width is made 5-6 millimeters larger than the pipe diameter.

The width of the slats is made 3 cm less than the selected pipe layout step (for example, a pipe step of 30 cm - a board width of 27 cm). For a smooth bending of the loops of the pipeline, semicircular grooves are cut out in the slats.

Another way to lay a warm water floor with your own hands is shown in the diagram below.

The profiled sheet in this case acts as a heat-reflecting screen and forms channels for pipes. In the diagram, we see a variant of the installation of a heating floor not above the basement, but on the ground floor. From below, along the beams, a finishing filing of the ceiling was made from lining. Therefore, the shield (10), which supports the insulation, is attached not to the lower edges of the beams, but to the cranial bars nailed to their sides.

Please note that when laying thermal insulation (except for foam), it is always protected from above and below with a vapor barrier film. It protects the insulation from getting wet, as it allows water vapor to freely escape from it.

Leaving a thermal gap between the edge of the flooring and the wall, it is necessary to lay a damper tape in it. It seals the contact zone and compensates for thermal deformations.

Helpful advice!

For laying a finished floor, use a board that has undergone chamber drying. Do not rush to fix the finished wooden flooring to the base. Up to this point, the warm floor should work for at least 2 days.

Installation of a “dry” electric underfloor heating in a wooden house is easier than installing a water system. A thin current-carrying cable does not need deep channels. It is fixed to the base with plastic ties-clamps or metal plates.

The installation sequence looks like this:

• A reflective layer of aluminum foil is laid on the thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, ecowool, perlite);
• A galvanized steel mesh with a cell of 40x40 or 50x50 mm is laid on the foil.
• Slots are made in the lags for the passage of an electric cable;
• A cable is attached to the grid with clamps;
• In the middle between the wires, a temperature sensor is installed in a corrugated tube and connected to the thermostat;
• On a fireproof base or in a metal hose, a power cable is output to an electrical outlet;
• A draft plywood floor is being laid;
• Finishing coating (laminate, parquet board) is mounted.

If the electric underfloor heating is covered with ceramic tiles, then the installation procedure changes. In this case, the insulation is covered with moisture-resistant plywood or OSB, fixing them to the beams. After that, a solution is applied to the coating with a spatula, a plastic reinforcing mesh is embedded in it and the tiles are glued. If the heating cable is not in a bay, but glued to the grid, then its installation is simplified. Having rolled out the roll, you just have to apply glue to the surface of the base and lay the tile.

In the same way, a film warm floor is laid on wooden floors. It consists of thin mats with flexible current-carrying plates glued into them.

The minimum thickness allows you to mount infrared film floors not only under tiles and laminate, but also under linoleum and carpet.

Which floor in a wooden house is better?

The answer to this question is not unambiguous. If the cost of construction and work is at the forefront, then it is better to use electric floors. If we compare the price of energy carriers, then a water system is more profitable. To save the height of the room, a thin film floor is used.

Regarding heaters, the following should be said: foam for underfloor heating is not the best material. Being in contact with a warm floor, the working temperature of which can reach +70C, it ages, releasing toxic gas. Therefore, it is better to lay ecowool or perlite between the floor beams.

Having chosen mineral wool for insulation, it must be well insulated by wrapping it with a vapor barrier. Otherwise, warm air through gaps and leaks can carry its particles out of the underground space into the room. For laying tiles, it is better to use a chemically neutral sheet material: cement-bonded, glass-magnesite board or gypsum fiber sheet. OSB and plywood are inferior to them in terms of environmental safety.

Wooden flooring above the warm floor should not be thicker than 21 mm. Do not forget that wood is a good thermal insulator, which reduces the efficiency of the heating system.

Warm water floor in a wooden house

A wooden house, despite the archaism of the very idea of ​​using wood as a building material, can become quite convenient and comfortable housing in the current conditions. This type of building is very convenient for giving, and the emergence of new technologies, the construction of modular wooden houses, have made wooden houses a successful and practical solution to the housing problem. Another question is what means of communication can equip a wooden residential building. If this housing is long-term and designed for long-term and permanent residence, then the heating of a residential facility comes out on top.

First of all, the strength of the structure itself confuses. Are wooden structures, including ceilings, able to cope with the installation of additional heating equipment. Judging by successful practical experience, the use of water heating systems in wooden houses is real and no less effective. Installation of the boiler and heating radiators is already a completed stage. Consider the following, is a warm water floor suitable for installation in a wooden house as a complete heating system.

The value of underfloor heating for wooden residential buildings

Wooden houses being built today are not much inferior to capital stone buildings. However, if a stone house, having a concrete foundation and reinforced concrete floors, can be equipped with any equipment and communications, the situation with wooden buildings is not so rosy. The whole problem is that from a technological point of view, a warm water floor carries a significant structural load. Not every room has a sufficient margin of safety, thanks to which complex communications can be successfully installed.

Water heating systems work due to the circulation of the coolant through a system of pipelines laid in the floor. The mass of the entire working structure of warm water floors reaches large values ​​in working condition.

Is the wooden floor of a country house able to withstand such a weight. Will the logs of the base of a wooden house withstand such a weight, will such floors be reliable and durable? So many questions are before you, but there are options that can quickly and effectively solve the problem. Flooring systems of warm water floors are techniques that have shown themselves well in practice. Underfloor heating, due to its advantages, makes wooden houses from ordinary temporary houses, full-fledged residential facilities.

• heating floors most optimally warm up the interior of the living space;
• in the absence of conversion, with such heating, the circulation of dust inside the room is excluded;
• a wooden house, sufficiently well insulated and equipped with warm water floors, is reliably protected from such a phenomenon as damp corners;
• underfloor heating keeps the optimal humidity regime inside the wooden house;
• with this method of heating, the likelihood of burns is completely eliminated, in contrast to the radiator heating system;
• economic indicators. Warm water floors in comparison with radiator heating by 30% reduce fuel costs associated with the preparation of the coolant;
• significant savings in internal space;
• reliability, safety and durability of heating systems based on water floors.

Speaking of wooden houses, the only drawback of such a heating system is the bulkiness of the structure itself, the duration and painstaking work. However, subject to the necessary technologies, instructions and rules, the installation of a warm floor in a wooden house will not be associated with much trouble. The result of the work itself will be the efficient operation of heating equipment and significantly improved living conditions.

For reference: the underfloor heating water circuit, made of polyethylene pipes, can be used to work with an antifreeze-based coolant. This heating option is ideal for country and country houses, designed for rare visits during the cold season. A pipeline filled with antifreeze is not subject to defrosting.

Ways of laying a water floor in a wooden house

The following should be said right away. A wooden house, no matter how strong it is, a priori lacks stone load-bearing walls and ceilings. The only stone element of a wooden building can be a foundation or basement. However, modern technologies of small housing construction involve the minimum use of concrete work in the process of building a residential facility.

On a note: block houses are assembled within 2-3 days. All structural elements, including internal partitions and ceilings, are designed for a certain load. It is allowed only over time to equip the stone foundation, thereby giving the wooden building the necessary strength, reliability and solidity.

• according to the modular scheme;
• on a rack basis.

Accordingly, both options can be applied during the construction of panel and block houses. Water pipes are laid in the space between the lags or on the rough floor surface resting on the logs. Modular and rack laying schemes have their own design and technological differences.

In the first case, ready-made wooden modules are used to lay the water circuit loop. In the second option, the heating pipes are mounted in the space between the boards and slats. The main feature when installing the first and second options is that you create a draft floor in which heating pipes are installed. On top of the prefabricated structure, metal heat exchange plates are laid, on which the finishing floor covering is already placed.

On a note: when using ceramic tiles or linoleum, the rough surface, together with pipes and metal plates, is additionally covered with an insulating layer of DSP boards. Such a measure is caused by the need to ensure uniform distribution of the load over the entire floor surface, to create conditions for uniform heat transfer between the water circuits and the finish coating.

Before starting work on the installation of underfloor heating, you will need to complete a number of mandatory steps, including the development of a heating system project and a survey of the structural elements of the building. Such a precaution is associated with the technological features of wooden buildings. Eg:

• a wooden building already shrinks within the first year. Approximately up to 5%. This remark must be taken into account when equipping underfloor heating during the construction of a wooden house;
• wood behaves differently in different climates. Excessive dryness or vice versa, high humidity causes cracking of wooden structures, the formation of rot and mold. Therefore, such houses should be built taking into account all the subtleties and nuances that protect wooden structures from negative atmospheric effects.

As for the design of the heating scheme, here one should take into account the heated area, the degree of thermal insulation of residential premises and, accordingly, the climatic conditions of the region. Neglecting these aspects, as a result of painstaking and laborious work, you can get an inefficient heating system, a warm floor, from which there will be little use.

On a note: The thermal efficiency of a residential building is one of the defining elements of a heating system. With competent actions, it is possible to achieve an increase in the efficiency of heating equipment by 15-20%. Insulation of wall panels, window and door openings is a prerequisite for high-quality heating of the house.

The preparatory work prior to the installation of heating floors includes the assessment of the base. Not every building has the necessary technological parameters, thanks to which you can immediately begin to equip the heating system. Wooden base boards, logs should lie correctly, have a “healthy” structure. Rotten areas or damaged whole fragments must be replaced with new products. An optimal distance of 60 cm is allowed between the lags. Large gaps existing between the boards, over 2 mm, are eliminated by laying heat-insulating material.

For reference: if it is visually possible to determine that the wooden flooring or structural elements have exhausted themselves, it is better to dismantle them and create a new structure - the base.

When examining the foundation, pay attention to the following factors:

• does the wind “walk” under the floor;
• whether the logs lie evenly or at a great distance from each other;
• old boards before installation are best treated with a planer, removing a layer of old and corroded wood;
• the entire deck surface must be level. The presence of irregularities, at least up to 2 mm, is allowed.

Instructions for installing underfloor heating in wooden buildings

After preparing the base, the main task is to create the necessary floor insulation in a wooden house. Properly made insulation retain heat and direct it upwards, thereby heating the floor covering. Otherwise, you will be heating the basement or heating the ground in your garden.

A rough coating or raised floor is made in order to lay a layer of thermal insulation on it. Having nailed sheets of plywood or chipboard to the lags from below, which are covered with steam and heat-insulating film. Further, the entire internal space between the lags is filled with foam or mineral wool. Usually the thickness of the insulation layer does not exceed 100 mm. The figure clearly shows the options for mounting a water floor on a wooden structure.

Using a modular set-up scheme, you will spend much more time, but your floor will be an order of magnitude harder and stronger. You choose which scheme to use, modular or rack. And in the first and second cases, everything is decided by the level of comfort that you expect when equipping the heating system in a particular room.

The modular type of laying allows you to properly lay the water circuit, observing the required pipe pitch and layout scheme. In addition, the metal plates will be securely fixed, there is no need to lay an additional leveling layer before laying the finish coat. The modules are very convenient when equipping indoor water floors laid with a snake. A similar scheme for laying the heating pipeline is also suitable for rack type.

Important! You should know that the metal plates are laid transversely to the grooves in which the water pipe is laid.

Conclusion

As in all cases, laying underfloor heating in this case is not complete without a layer of hydro and thermal insulation. Underfloor heating can be done using metal-plastic, copper and polyethylene pipes. It is important to know what will go where. For the first floor, you can get by with copper pipes, but their cost is quite high and at a high temperature of the coolant there is a high probability of damage to the integrity of the insulating layer.

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in a wooden house

The main criteria for installing underfloor heating are functionality, economic feasibility, and fire safety. All these requirements are met by a water-heated floor in a wooden house.

The water floor can be the main and / or the only source of heat and additional (together with batteries). The device of a water-heated floor in a wooden house quickly pays for itself: there are practically no operating costs (unlike electric floors).

The risk of fire is also less than that of an electric floor. A water source of fire can only be a boiler. But it is installed in an open way and equipped with control devices.

Elements and device of the system

1. Heating boiler (gas, electric, solid fuel, etc.). The most economical heating is a gas boiler. It is also the most convenient: it is not required to constantly replenish fuel reserves in the furnace, unlike solid fuel boilers or wood-burning stoves.

If the house is supposed to have combined heating (batteries + floor), two heating circuits must be installed. The temperature regime for radiators and floors is different: in radiators it can be 60 degrees or more, and a water-heated floor in a wooden house with wooden floors operates at a temperature of no more than 30 degrees. Otherwise, the wood will start to crack.

2. Water from the boiler to the pipes flows through a distribution manifold with control valves. If the dimensions of the house and the pipeline are small, you can limit yourself to manual adjustments. With a large length of pipes and a large number of individual circuits, a main collector with automatic adjustment is installed.

3. A circulation pump for forced water supply and a pressure gauge to control the pressure in the system.

4. Temperature controller with temperature sensor.

5. Pipes. Optimally - metal-plastic: metal pipes (copper, stainless steel) are more expensive, and installation is more difficult, because. you will need to make a lot of welded joints. The metal-plastic floor is sold in a bay, it only needs to be unwound in accordance with the diagram.

An alternative to metal-plastic is polypropylene. Also sold in coils. Soldering, if necessary, is carried out with an iron for polypropylene.

The optimal thickness of the pipe is 1.6-2 centimeters.

Mounting methods

With screed. In a wooden house, this method is possible when installing the floor on the ground.

If there is a log or a subfloor, a water-heated floor is installed in a wooden house without a screed, because. the wooden parts will not support the weight of the mortar.

When installing without a screed, sheets of chipboard, OSB or waterproof plywood are used as the basis for the flooring. Installation is possible in a modular or rack way.

With the modular method, ready-made chipboards are used with locks for fastening to each other and milled grooves for laying pipes.

With the rack method, the stacker forms the channels for the pipes himself.

Another way of mounting without a screed is using polystyrene mats. Mats are slabs of PPS insulation with already equipped channels for pipes.

During installation, three layers of the cake are needed: waterproofing, insulation, heat-reflecting foil (or metal plates). These layers prevent heat from escaping into the ground or downstairs.

Preparing for installation

When mounting on the ground, a rough screed is poured at the preliminary stage. A sand and gravel cushion is poured, waterproofing (polyethylene or roofing material) is placed on it, the mortar is poured, leveled and the concrete is set.

When installing without a screed, the floor covering is removed. If the floor is in order and there is a layer of insulation under it, with which everything is also in order, installation can begin.

If the subfloor is rotten, there is no insulation between the lags - the boards are removed. If necessary, dismantle the logs.

1. Lay a waterproofing film.
2. Insulation plates are installed between the lags tightly by surprise.
3. On top - a vapor barrier film with low vapor permeability or polyethylene laminated with foil. The foil film is placed on top with a reflective surface, the vapor barrier film is placed on the rough side (outlet).
4. From above, either chipboard sheets with ready-made grooves for pipes are installed, or moisture-resistant plywood is laid, which will be the basis for mounting polystyrene foam mats.

Read what is a support-columnar foundation.

Installation

Attention: installation of a water-heated floor in a wooden house is carried out in all rooms separately. One section of the floor should be no more than 40 square meters. For rooms with a larger area, two sections are made.

Foundation laying

Chipboard modules are also laid according to the scheme, connected with tongue-and-groove locks. Pipes are laid in the channels.

With the rack method, chipboard slats about three centimeters high are attached to the laid plywood (plates) in two centimeter increments. It is necessary to ensure that the grooves in the places where the pipe turns are rounded.

After mounting the base, a reflective foil layer is placed. Other options: lay heat-reflecting plates.

Pipe laying

There are two schemes for laying the working circuit: spiral and snake. The snake is led in zigzags from one wall to another, opposite. At this wall, the floor will be colder, because. as you move along the circuit, the coolant cools down.

The spiral provides uniform heating over the entire area: the first (hottest) coil is placed along the cold walls, and the cooled area is located in the center of the room, where it is warmer. From the center, the pipe is led in the opposite direction, the same turns are repeated in parallel. At the finish, they are connected to the return manifold.

A gap of at least seven centimeters should be left between the outer coil of the pipe and the walls.

Before installing the finish coat, the system must be tested for leaks: connected to a manifold, filled with water and kept for about a day.

The pipes are fastened with narrow aluminum plates laid across the groove.

If a laminate is used as a finishing cladding, a substrate is usually placed on a chipboard base. On a polystyrene base, a laminate can be laid without a substrate.

Floor installation with screed

For a finishing screed, you can use a mixture based on M-300 cement. Plasticizers and polypropylene fiber are added to the solution. Another option is to buy ready-made screed mix.

1. Lay a waterproofing layer on the rough screed.
2. Lay damper tape along all walls at the joints with the floor. If at least one wall is longer than eight meters, the tape is additionally placed in the middle of the room. This is a must, because when heated, the thermal expansion of concrete begins. In the absence of a damper, the floor will open.
3. Install heater. An approximate layer is 10 cm, the exact one depends on the heat calculation and on the characteristics of the material (density, thermal conductivity).
4. Lay reinforcing mesh.
5. The pipe is laid in turns with a step of 15-30 cm. They are attached to the grid cells with plastic clamps with a step of thirty centimeters.
6. Test the system for leaks and performance.
7. Pour the screed 5-7 centimeters. If the floor is subject to high loads, another reinforcing mesh is placed in the screed during the pouring process. Wait for the concrete to harden (about a month).
8. Lay the finish coat: laminate with or without a substrate, ceramic tiles.

Planed boards can be used instead of laminate as wood flooring, but their thermal conductivity is lower than laminates for underfloor heating.

You can not lay a parquet board, it will quickly dry out. In addition, in the production of parquet and parquet boards, chemical compositions are often used that reduce the environmental friendliness of the coating: when heated, it will release toxic volatile substances.

Boards should be laid with gaps to compensate for thermal expansion.

conclusions

1. You can install a water-heated floor in a wooden house with your own hands under a screed only when laying on the ground. When installing above the basement, on the second or third floor, the flooring method is used on top of the subfloor.
2. For underfloor heating and radiator heating, independent circuits are needed.
3. The number of underfloor heating sections depends on the number of heated rooms and the area of ​​each of them.
4. Under the pipes there should be a cake of waterproofing, insulation and a heat-reflecting layer.

Video about the device of a water heated floor in a wooden house.

Long burning furnace

For a water-heated floor of a classic design, a heavy cement-sand screed with a thickness of 8 cm or more is used. This thickness is necessary primarily to maintain the integrity of the screed itself when heated, to prevent its cracking, and also in order to better dissipate heat energy from pipes. But a very heavy screed on wooden logs in most cases, without building new foundations, is not applicable.

How can you replace a thick cement-sand screed to make a warm floor on wooden logs, in which the bearing capacity is limited ...

Features of lightweight underfloor heating

Distinctive features of a dry system of underfloor heating with wooden logs are as follows.

• The cement-sand screed can be replaced with a dry prefabricated screed of lesser thickness from boards containing gypsum and/or cement and binding fibers that do not crack when heated. Gypsum fiber boards (GVL), cement particle boards (DSP) are mainly used.
• The heating pipe must be laid on metal sheets, which will be conductors and heat dissipators. Otherwise, a decrease in the output power and the appearance of a temperature zebra may occur. But instead of laying metal, it is also possible to increase the density of laying the pipeline by 2 to 4 times.

• Lightweight water-heated floor is characterized by simplicity of design and high speed of construction.
• The pipeline can also be placed between the existing lags, which allows you to create a floor in low rooms.
• The heat capacity of the prefabricated dry screed is relatively small, so the heating system, like radiators, can be quickly adjusted to the desired operating mode. This means that the lightweight system can be the only heating system in the house, as long as its heating capacity is enough.
• The thermal power of underfloor heating with prefabricated screed usually cannot exceed 0.7 kW from 10 square meters. area, at a comfortable floor temperature of 28 degrees (coolant 30 - 35 degrees). Therefore, for a well-insulated house in the central regions, such power will be sufficient for most of the heating season. More information

It makes sense to create a prefabricated warm floor not only when building a house, but also when carrying out major repairs. Such a warm floor can be made in stages - first, the operating system in one room, then it is created in the next ....

How to insulate a heated floor with lags

When choosing an insulation scheme, first of all, the height of the room is taken into account (it is advisable not to do less than 2.45 m) and the design of the floors.

The most common situation is the following - there is a low ventilated subfloor, above it there are logs with a height of at least 15 cm. At the same time, the height of the room is large and can be reduced by 10 cm.

Then it is optimal to place a layer of mineral wool insulation with a thickness of 15 cm between the log (for floors, the heat transfer resistance is not lower than 4.2 m2 x ° C / W, for the central region, according to the Requirements of SNiP 23.02-2003).

The insulation from the living space of the house is fenced off with a vapor barrier, and ventilated through the underground. Usually, the membrane is fastened to the sidewalls of the log, leaving an air gap of 2 cm between it and the boards.

But options are also possible for combined insulation - mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam.

At the same time, mineral wool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is placed between the log, and above the subfloor - extruded polystyrene foam with a layer of 3.5 - 5 cm. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the layers.

This option also helps out with insufficient lag height, when it is not possible to place a layer of insulation of the required thickness between them.

Piping options

Placement of the pipeline between the lags or bars.
For better distribution of thermal energy, profiled sheet metal is used in the design of the warm floor.

It can be either a special heat dissipator for pipes, or (for placement between the lag) and an ordinary profiled sheet. The pipeline is laid in the waves of the profiled sheet and is below the level of the crate.

On top of the counter-lattice or log, gypsum-fiber or cement-bonded sheets are laid in 2 layers. They have sufficient thermal conductivity, while not cracking. The layers are fastened together with an adhesive solution and a number of screws with a step of 25 cm.

The layout of the underfloor heating pipeline for the second floor with filing the ceiling of the first floor is presented. In this case, the thickness of the insulation can be small, 50 - 100 mm (do not heat the ceiling of the lower floor), while indoors it is desirable to use environmentally friendly autoclaved aerated concrete with a density of 100 - 150 kg / m3, and not mineral wool or expanded polystyrenes dangerous in case of fire. From the steam coming from the lower room, the insulation is fenced off by a vapor barrier membrane.

Pipeline in embossed insulation

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam are produced with a relief surface on which metal sheets and a pipeline can be placed with a selected pattern.

This insulation is laid on the boards of the subfloor, while the thickness of the main insulation layer can be reduced, for example, to 10 cm, and extruded polystyrene foam is used with a thickness of 3.5 - 5 cm.

Then the voids are filled with cement (gypsum) mortar, a flat surface is made, and double gypsum fiber sheets are laid on top, as in the previous example.

Ordinary sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can also be used, then with a heating tool, cut grooves in them for a metal heat sink and pipeline. But the option requires a lot of manual labor and overspending of insulation.

For uniform heating of the entire surface, the heat distribution plates must be under 80% of the area of ​​the warm floor.

Placement of the pipeline inside the dry screed.

Grooves for placing heat reflectors and pipelines can be created not only with insulation, but also with a screed.

A rough base is laid on the logs in the form of a single sheet of GVL (DSP). Pieces of drywall of the desired configuration are laid on it, and between them are metal sheets and a pipeline fastened to them.

Gaps, voids are filled with cement-sand mortar with plasticizer, the surface is leveled. Two layers of GVL or DSP sheet material are laid above.

Recommendations for assembling a heated floor on a wooden base

On sale you can find designers for assembling lightweight underfloor heating without wet processes. They include a metal sheet for the heating pipeline and profiled insulation.

All this is covered with a dry screed in two layers of sheets with a total thickness of up to 3 cm. Such an assembly is simpler, but the materials are more expensive.

• Before covering the pipeline with mortar or screed, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests of the pipeline - with a maximum pressure for several hours.
• Laying mortar can only be carried out on a pipeline under operating pressure (2 atm).
• After covering with a screed, thermal tests are carried out - for the maximum temperature of the coolant for 3 hours.
• The flooring is used only specially designed for use on warm floors - a thin parquet board with impregnation, special types of laminate and linoleum.

The supply equipment consists of a pumping and mixing unit and a distribution manifold. In the unit, the coolant is mixed in such a way that the outlet temperature is set by the regulator, but not more than 35 degrees.

The collector distributes the coolant along the circuits.
As a rule, the installation of these hydraulic systems is entrusted to specialists.

One of the options for creating lightweight underfloor heating in an already built house is a phased installation in separate rooms. First, the floors are made in the room closest to the coolant entry point in one circuit, usually a bathroom, a bathroom, a kitchen. A mixing unit is installed, but without a manifold.

When creating underfloor heating with your own hands, it is important to get the initial experience. After that, it will not be so difficult to make underfloor heating circuits in other rooms and install a distribution manifold.