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Stone castle for the garden. A castle in the country - easy! How to make an ancient "castle"

Everyone wants to make their site original and special. But how to do this? Various will come to the rescue here decorative figures, only they require costs.

Therefore, you can build a castle with your own hands on the site. This will not be a problem for those who do at least something with their own hands. In addition, this does not require any special costs.

Decorations for the site

To decorate its territory now exists many options:

• Entire zoos are literally built from old tires. There are swans, cats, giraffes and elephants.
• You can make flower beds and flower beds from unusable logs and stones.
• From polyurethane foam and bottles you can create figurines for the garden.
• And if you use cement and have some skills in working with it, you can create simply magnificent sculptures that will decorate any area.

You can also build a castle with your own hands from scrap materials or even build a whole kingdom that will delight not only children, but also adults. This building will add mystery to the garden, and to make it look more alive, you can make a rock garden or rock garden.

To obtain a more durable and long-lasting structure, you should use cement-sand mixture . For the composition it is better to use 2 parts sand and 1 part cement. Before starting, it is advisable to dry the sand - the drier it is, the easier it will be to sift and subsequently use.

Most often, castles turn out to be quite large in size, and besides, their construction is a little difficult. challenging task. To deal with this, you can try to line up some parts separately, after which they can be easily assembled into in the right place like from cubes. Here's how to make a castle with your own hands.

Construction for building a castle

To build a tower from an iron sheet, you need to roll up a cylinder of the required size and fix it. It must be fixed so that it can be easily disassembled after use. To reduce solution consumption A bottle or jar should be placed inside the cylinder, but it must be taken into account that the thickness of the solution around the ballast should be about 5 cm.

When pouring the solution inside, make sure it is thick. After which it needs to be allowed to harden for several hours so that the formwork does not crumble when removed.

The height of the formwork should be chosen in this way: it should be approximately equal to the tower; if it is smaller, it should be disassembled and assembled above the already set part.

You can cut the solution after it has set. To perform such work, the following tools are used:

• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• scalpel or similar blade;
• blade from a hacksaw for metal;
• strips of tin that will help form the elements of the castle.

A castle made of simple cylindrical shapes will look a little boring, to avoid this you should experiment and use a chisel to imitate stonework, chips or cracks at the bottom of the castle to give the castle the effect of antiquity. Using a knife you can make windows and loopholes.

The roof is constructed from tin cones, and they can also be used as a mold for mortar. The roof should be knocked out of the mold only after the solution has reliably hardened.

Making walls

To make walls, a rectangle of the required size is assembled from boards, after which it is placed on flat surface, which is pre-covered with a piece of film or roofing felt. The solution is poured into the resulting frame. To make a window or door in the wall, you should pre-position the frames in the desired location.

After the solution has been poured to the required height, stones or crushed stone can be inserted into the lower part to create a kind of imitation of the foundation, or using a knife, draw grooves - characteristic gaps between the foundation stones.

When the solution has hardened, the frame is removed and, if required, details are added: windows, loopholes, etc. After this, the walls are left to dry for another day.

It is better to choose a sunny day to build a castle.. It is best to place it on a hill, which can be a pile of stones. To ensure that the walls stand securely, a foundation is built for them, on which a thin layer of cement is then applied. And only after that is it worth installing the walls. They can also be strengthened in another way, for example, the internal cavity is filled with stone, rubble or mortar.

Since simple concrete castles look gray and dull, many people paint them. For this they use acrylic paint. This decorative element It will become a real decoration of the garden, and both children and adults will be happy with it.

Beautiful garden decor makes the site special - it’s pleasant for both adults and children to be here, and guests admire it with skillful hands and the imagination of the owners and take notes of ideas to implement them in their own backyard. We offer 25 crafts and decorations for the garden, which are easy to make using available materials.

Butterflies – painting on stones

You can paint any natural stones, both small and large. They look more impressive if the painting area is large - in this case, several images can be made on the stone. The butterflies in the photo above are an example of this. We first wash and dry the stone surface, then apply a primer to it. When the coating is dry, paint it with a light background paint. So - creative work. If suitable stones can't find it, let's do it

Rainbow butterflies over a flower bed

We cut out such butterflies from plywood - for this you will need a jigsaw (or better yet, a jigsaw). To turn the blanks into beautiful butterflies:

• sand the edges with sandpaper;
• We apply wood impregnation to the workpieces on both sides to protect them from moisture;
• apply primer;
• paint with wood or acrylic paints;
• after the paint has dried, apply varnish for external work;
• We fix the butterflies on long rods.

In the same way, you can make large fancy flowers - they will greatly enliven the lawn.

Decorative balls or lamps

Let's make spectacular hanging balls to decorate the garden or lamps with round lampshades. The manufacturing principle is simple:

• inflate big balloon or take a soft ball;
• wrap the ball or ball with twine (twine), secure it with PVA glue.
• You can paint the twine before treating the workpiece with glue, or when it hardens.
• We pierce the ball/ball inside and take it out.
• Cover the ball with varnish.
• If instead of twine you use thin and flexible colored wire. the work will be done even faster, and decorative ball will serve for a long time - despite the wind and rain.

Figurines for the garden from pots

Garden decor from flower pots- a separate direction. How incredible interesting crafts for the garden can be made from inexpensive plastic flowerpots (although ceramic ones are also suitable)! Here, and here – You can fasten the pots into figures for the garden with rope/twine/wire, which we thread through drainage holes. Then - painting. We choose paint depending on the type of material of the pots. If the pots are plastic, use acrylic paint or paint specifically for plastic. If you are making a figurine from ceramic pots, oil paint or oil enamel will do. Acrylic paint is universal, we also use it.

Cloud on the drainpipe

This kind of rain can be made if you cut a cloud from a sheet of metal or plastic and attach it in the right place.

The first photo is almost a sculpture. It will require a panel made of cellular concrete - it is easy to cut.

In the second photo there is a flashlight made from a piece plastic pipe and plugs. We paint it with acrylic paints.

Flowers on pedestals

A luxurious corner in the garden can be created using high stands under flowerpots. we make them from pillars, blocks, or even just pipes - it can be round, but always of large diameter. Climbing flowers are desirable - we will plant them in wide flowerpots or sulfinia.

Fairytale castle made of pipes

We fasten several sections of pipes of different heights in which holes are made (for example, with a crown drill). Roofs for turrets can be made from watering cans.

Garden crafts made from plywood

These figures peeking out from behind the fence are very funny. But once they were ordinary plywood.

Concrete slab platform

Decorative paving, in which the slabs are made on site.

• We prepare the surface - tear off small pits in the shape of the slabs;
• We lay a tape along the edges of the recess - it can be made of polyethylene or roofing felt.
• At the bottom of each pit we pour a little crushed stone with sand;
• Fill it with concrete.
• We sow lawn grass between the slabs.

Spiral lawn

Spectacular spiral of grass and stones:

• use a shovel to mark a spiral across the grass or ground;
• tear out the spiral groove;
• we place stones in the ditch;
• we sow grass between the lines (if it is not there).

Garden of sand and stones

Exotic corner. But it’s just stones and sand of two colors – yellow and white.

Flower hose

A watering hose can also serve as a garden decoration. We drive hooks into the wall of some building, onto which we wind a hose in the shape of flower petals.

Elephant from tires or from pots

We cut the old tire with a regular hacksaw, if available. circular saw cutting will be easier. We paint oil paint or rubber/bitumen.

The elephant in the photo below is made from flower pots. For the head we use a ball, plastic or foam ball. The trunk is made of wire, here it is fluffy (chenille).

Sun made of tires and towers made of pipes

Tire sun – the decor is simple, but bright and pleasant. The complex of turrets is made from sections of pipes.

Bicycle chain dogs

How to make your plot or garden unique - this is the dream of many owners. Many people love to decorate their own estate, dacha, or yard, but not everyone has extra money that could be spent on decorative figures. But this is not a problem for those who at least know how to do something with their own hands.

It doesn’t even require any special expenses.

So, for example, a fairy-tale kingdom on the garden site will become a good gift both small and adult dreamers.

Even a mini-castle built at the dacha will add mystery to the area.

Mini castles for the yard or garden are quite large in volume, and building it completely is a little difficult.

You can try to make some parts of the castle separately, so that later in any part of the garden, at the dacha you can assemble it from ready-made elements like from cubes.

An example of a design for building a castle in a country house

easy to disassemble. To reduce solution consumption, cans or bottles can be placed inside the cylinder, but the thickness of the solution around the ballast must be at least 5 cm.

The solution for pouring should be thick enough. It must be given several hours to set to such a state that the formwork does not crumble when removed. The height of the cylindrical formwork must be selected as follows: it should be approximately equal to the height of the tower; with a smaller size, the formwork will need to be disassembled and assembled slightly higher than the already set lower part.

Making a castle for your dacha is easy if you have a pair of “golden hands”.

The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

Elements of a standard design.

Let's start with the turrets.

A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws

Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast should be at least 5 cm. Fill with a thick solution.

We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble.

We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution.

The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting, a set of tools is used that is available to everyone.

Do not forget to make windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the desired recess.

Fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the formwork into a cylinder and make required quantity windows, battlements - as your imagination dictates.

The roof can be made from tin cones; you can also use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar. After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later.

Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).

There is no difference in their production.

We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We place it on a flat surface, having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing felt so that the solution poured later is not absorbed.

You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar.

After the solution has been poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stone pebbles and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above common plane solution approximately 5 mm.

Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.

Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly.

First we install on cement mortar, previously applied to the foundation, for example tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.

The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3.

Assembly diagram:

Once this structure has set, form it over the building. gable roof.
This is how you can make a complex castle from the main basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination - like this, for example.

Or a very simple one:

I, like some of you, had a fix idea to do something pleasing to the eye against the backdrop of a country landscape. The choice fell on a mini-castle, since it is the easiest to fit anywhere on the site, taking into account its geological features. Moreover, you can build creatively, adding or changing its elements on the go.

The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. After experimenting, I settled on a 2 to 1 composition (i.e. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement). It is better to dry the sand in the sun, then it is easier to mix it with cement, and also to sift it for use in elements with fine detail, since debris can ruin the part.

The castle has a fairly decent volume, so it is unrealistic to build it all at once. To do this, I first make individual parts of the castle, so that I can then build it out of cubes in a couple of days. The last, third castle was assembled in two days. The neighbors thought he had fallen from the sky when they saw him.

So, let's look at the elements of a typical design.

Let's start with the turrets. A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled in the future. Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a fairly thick solution. We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble. You can choose the height of the cylindrical formwork yourself. It can be equal to the height of the tower, or less, but then the formwork will have to be dismantled and assembled above the already set lower part.

We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution. The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting I use a set of tools available to everyone. I use screwdrivers, chisels, a medical scalpel, a hacksaw blade for metal and various strips of tin for forming various architectural elements.

A simple cylinder is boring, this is where the flight of fancy begins. I make various grooves by wrapping a long strip of tin around the cylinder, using this strip as a guide, and using a screwdriver or chisel to select the annular recesses. Then in the lower part you can imitate stonework, destruction, chipped plaster, cracks - after all, the castle is ancient.

For me, aging is the most exciting part of the process. At the same time, we don’t bother making windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the required recess. If you want to make a turret at the top of the tower, then roll up a cylinder with a diameter a couple of centimeters larger and a height of 10-15 cm, insert it inside plastic bottle to save the solution (after complete setting it will be removed).

We fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make the required number of windows, teeth - as your imagination dictates. I'm sawing out the teeth hacksaw blade for metal - I make cuts of the required depth and pick off the excess mortar between the cuts.

The roof can be made from tin cones, or you can use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar (that’s exactly what I do). After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later. So we sorted out the tower. We have all the elements ready and stacked somewhere in the corner.

Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).

There is no difference in their production. We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. Place it on a flat surface (I have an old kitchen table) having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing material so that the solution poured later is not absorbed. You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar. After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.

If there is no crushed stone, then you can after partial setting sharp knife or use a scalpel to imitate the foundation. You can also use pebbles to mark future windows. Thus, your task is to create such flat elements. To speed things up, I make 2-3 of these rectangles at a time. Having made such a wall once, you will understand that they are made easily and very quickly. As a rule, we are interested in the outside of the castle; the inside does not represent anything because it is not visible.

So, after a few hours, the mortar of our future walls has set very (!) at this point, so that it is pliable, but does not collapse, and if it is left too long, it will be difficult to process. We carefully disassemble the frame and we are left with a flat rectangle on the table. If you are making a wall with teeth, then make the gaps between the teeth by gradually removing the mortar with a flat tool (I use a metal ruler for this). Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.

Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. Then they can be safely removed from the table and also placed in a corner. When the required number of elements have already been made, choose a sunny day for installation on summer cottage. This point is still important here. The castle looks more beautiful on some hill, on a pile of stones. Therefore, prepare the foundation for it. If you use stones, always place the stones on a small layer of mortar first. If you don't do this, the stones will move over time and destroy your beauty.

When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly. First, we install it on a cement mortar previously applied to the foundation, for example tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.

The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3. My towers were heavy, so the men needed to tinker. Thus on at this stage This is the design we got (top view)

But wall No. 2 will be part of the building, so I take some bricks and form a rectangle of this building. To prevent the solution from getting into the windows or doors from the inside, I close them from the inside with something flat (I use pieces flat slate or fragments of flat tiles).

I have the inside of the castle hidden. But if you want her to have beautiful view- you need to make both wall No. 3 and inner part pour for monolith concrete mortar or filled with construction waste.

Once this structure has set, form a gable roof over the building. It takes me two or three bricks (spread the mortar with a spatula and level it into a cone).

This is how you can make a complex castle from the basic basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination (for example, you’re tired of round towers - make rectangular formwork and the towers will be square, etc.).

I, like some of you, had a fix idea to do something pleasing to the eye against the backdrop of a country landscape. The choice fell on a mini-castle, since it is the easiest to fit anywhere on the site, taking into account its geological features. Moreover, you can build creatively, adding or changing its elements on the go.

The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. After experimenting, I settled on a 2 to 1 composition (i.e. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement). It is better to dry the sand in the sun, then it is easier to mix it with cement, and also to sift it for use in elements with fine detail, since debris can ruin the part.

The castle has a fairly decent volume, so it is unrealistic to build it all at once. To do this, I first make individual parts of the castle, so that I can then build it out of cubes in a couple of days. The last, third castle was assembled in two days. The neighbors thought he had fallen from the sky when they saw him.

So, let's look at the elements of a typical design.

Let's start with the turrets. A cylinder of the required radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (mine is about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled in the future. Anything can be placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a fairly thick solution. We give it several hours to set to such a state that when removing the formwork it does not crumble. You can choose the height of the cylindrical formwork yourself. It can be equal to the height of the tower, or less, but then the formwork will have to be dismantled and assembled above the already set lower part.

We immediately begin to cut the damp, slightly set solution. The cutting technology is the same as that of sandboxes. For cutting I use a set of tools available to everyone. I use screwdrivers, chisels, a medical scalpel, a hacksaw blade for metal and various strips of tin for forming various architectural elements.

A simple cylinder is boring, this is where the flight of fancy begins. I make various grooves by wrapping a long strip of tin around the cylinder, using this strip as a guide, and using a screwdriver or chisel to select the annular recesses. Then in the lower part you can imitate stonework, destruction, chipped plaster, cracks - after all, the castle is ancient.

For me, aging is the most exciting part of the process. At the same time, we don’t bother making windows, loopholes, using a knife to pick out the required recess. If you want to make a turret at the top of the tower, then roll up a cylinder with a diameter a couple of centimeters larger and a height of 10-15 cm, insert a plastic bottle inside to save the solution (after it has completely set, it will be removed).

We fill the mold with the solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make the required number of windows, teeth - as your imagination dictates. I cut out the teeth with a hacksaw blade for metal - I make cuts of the required depth and pick off the excess mortar between the cuts.

The roof can be made from tin cones, or you can use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar (that’s exactly what I do). After complete setting, carefully knock our roof out of the mold. Don't forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put everything together later. So we sorted out the tower. We have all the elements ready and stacked somewhere in the corner.

Let's start building the walls. Our walls will be either fortress walls (1) or a building element (2).

There is no difference in their production. We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We place it on a flat surface (I have an old kitchen table), first placing either a film or a piece of roofing felt so that the solution poured later is not absorbed. You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, you can add crushed stones or broken bricks to the bottom to save mortar. After the solution is poured to the desired height, you can take nice crushed stones and stick them into the base of the foundation so that their flat edges protrude above the general plane of the solution by about 5 mm.

If there is no crushed stone, then after partial setting, you can imitate the foundation with a sharp knife or scalpel. You can also use pebbles to mark future windows. Thus, your task is to create such flat elements. To speed things up, I make 2-3 of these rectangles at a time. Having made such a wall once, you will understand that they are made easily and very quickly. As a rule, we are interested in the outside of the castle; the inside does not represent anything because it is not visible.

So, after a few hours, the mortar of our future walls has set very (!) at this point, so that it is pliable, but does not collapse, and if it is left too long, it will be difficult to process. We carefully disassemble the frame and we are left with a flat rectangle on the table. If you are making a wall with teeth, then make the gaps between the teeth by gradually removing the mortar with a flat tool (I use a metal ruler for this). Then loopholes and windows are made. Draw everything your imagination tells you. To remove the remaining solution, I use a soft brush (you’ve probably seen how archaeologists work in the movies). In the end, you will be left with something like the following on your desk.

Leave the finished walls on the table for about a day. Then they can be safely removed from the table and also placed in a corner. When the required number of elements have already been made, we choose a sunny day for installation on the summer cottage. This point is still important here. The castle looks more beautiful on some hill, on a pile of stones. Therefore, prepare the foundation for it. If you use stones, always place the stones on a small layer of mortar first. If you don't do this, the stones will move over time and destroy your beauty.

When the foundation is prepared, we begin assembly. First, we install it on a cement mortar that has been previously applied to the foundation, for example, tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower using mortar. Then we install tower No. 2.

The castle is already beginning to emerge. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish by installing tower No. 3. My towers were heavy, so the men needed to tinker. Thus, at this stage we have this design (top view)

But wall No. 2 will be part of the building, so I take some bricks and form a rectangle of this building. To prevent the solution from getting into the windows or doors from the inside, I close them from the inside with something flat (I use pieces of flat slate or fragments of flat tiles).

I have the inside of the castle hidden. But if you want it to have a beautiful appearance, you need to make both wall No. 3 and fill the inside of the monolith with concrete mortar or fill it with construction waste.

Once this structure has set, form a gable roof over the building. It takes me two or three bricks (spread the mortar with a spatula and level it into a cone).

This is how you can make a complex castle from the basic basic elements, changing them slightly depending on your imagination (for example, you are tired of round towers - make rectangular formwork and the towers will be square, etc.).

A castle made simply of concrete is not very beautiful. How to decorate it?

About imitation. Boulders at the base of the foundation are made very easily since they are of arbitrary shape. Imitating brick requires more patience. Under the ruler, I scratch a series of horizontal lines and then make vertical notches at characteristic intervals. Use a brush to brush away the debris. Where the surface is very rough, it can be smoothed by moistening it with water from a spray and ironing it with a soft brush. When the assembled castle is completely dry, you can tint it a little. Give the roof the appearance of tiles. I use acrylic paint with the desired color; to paint imitation brick, I purchased the following colors for acrylic - black, red, brown, yellow. Green can be used to imitate moss. Using a soft brush, lightly touching the masonry different colors colors I paint the surface. In this case, only the convex surface is painted, and the recessed part remains gray. The effect is amazing. From half a meter it seems that everything is made of small bricks. In one place of the castle I even imitated a destroyed brick wall. I didn't expect such an effect myself. The castle has already survived the winter for a year and the paints are like new.

Is it possible to make parts of the house? I work in a garage. But in principle, you can do it at home if you don’t litter too much. In this case, the details can be broken down into even smaller ones. Those. for example, make a wall of two parts - the upper one where the battlements are and the lower one where the gates are. Similarly, make a tower from two or three cylinders or cubes. Then it’s easier to transport. This allows you to prepare the castle even in winter and spring, and assemble it in a couple of days in the summer. This is how I prepare the dry mixture. I fill half a bucket with dry sand, add cement and it mixes very easily with a small children's spatula. I pour all this into a small bucket and make the next batch until I fill it. Thus, there is always enough dry solution available.

I wish you all success in your creativity. And be sure to share your results.

First mini castle

The first flowerbed castle was made about eight years ago. The rest is recent - last year and the year before. The beacon is real - it glows at night.