Finnish and Swedish boiled paints. Oil paint washes. Recipe for chloroxide paint. How to weld wood paint for outdoor use Scandinavian paint how to prepare it
To prepare Finnish paint, you will need the following components: flour
wheat or rye - 720g; iron vitriol - 1560g; water - 9l.
The secret of paint is not only in the composition, but also in strict adherence to technology
cooking. First, they take flour and 6 liters of water and prepare a paste,
why cold water is gradually added to the flour and stirred until
until the flour acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. Then
the remaining water from 6 liters is poured into the paste in a hot state.
After this procedure, the paste is filtered and put on fire. Gradually
while stirring the mixture, salt is added to it, then iron sulfate, then
dry lime pigment. Now to get a working paint job
composition, the remaining 3 liters of hot water are poured into the mixture.
The resulting paint is applied to the surface in two layers. Need
paints per square meter - 300g. Primer for this paint
required. The advantage of Finnish paint is not only that approximately
for 20 years or more, you will not have any trouble with
the structure that was painted with it, but also in its hygiene.
According to the Finnish composition: table salt - 360 g, lime pigment - 1560 g.
SWEDISH COMPOSITION:
In the process of preparation, alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments are used for tinting - iron minium, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. As a rule, Swedish paint has rich red, brown or yellow tones.
If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.
Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: the flour is poured with a small amount of cold water and kneaded; the resulting "dough" is diluted with cold water to the consistency of sour cream. The water remaining from 6 liters is boiled and poured into the "sour cream" in a thin stream with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt, vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Then the coloring pigment is added and again thoroughly mixed. Then, stirring vigorously, pour drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paint consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint or terry brush once - evenly, with wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks. Do not leave unpainted areas, since with a later painting it will no longer be possible to make a smooth surface.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often covered with outbuildings, shingled roofs, and sometimes the walls of residential buildings. It is unsuitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.
LINSEED OIL (very good for wood)
Linseed oil is a classic method using natural preparations to treat wood types such as birch to achieve a long lasting, durable and moisture resistant surface. possible options:
1. Raw linseed oil, undiluted oil drying oil.
application example: Knife handle (or other product)
need to be placed in linseed oil for several days.
To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.
When the wood of the cutting is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for a few weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and polymerized, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.
2. Linseed oil diluted by 50% with turpentine. Liquid prepared from linseed oil of real natural turpentine (do not use substitutes!) in a ratio of 1 to 1.
With the help of turpentine, the drying time of the wood and the oxidation of the oil is reduced.
Application: (see 1). Drying time is 1-2 weeks.
3. Linseed oil with tar.
The addition of 50% tar gives the wood a red-brown tint. (apply see 1)
Use only natural tar, after application carefully wipe off the remaining oil with a soft and smooth rag.
CAUTION: When using linseed oil, there is a risk of spontaneous combustion of rags soaked in linseed solution. Therefore, throw away with extreme care, so as not to lead to fire!
* WOODEN PRODUCTS CAN BE WAXED, here is one of the varnish recipes:
LAC. COMPOUND:
wax - 100h
rosin - 25 hours
turpentine 50h (parts are indicated by weight).
Grind and melt rosin and wax, mix, then remove from heat and pour in turpentine, mix thoroughly. Coating recipes are different and here you can and should try different compositions. Another way of such folk varnish is rosin dissolved in turpentine.
* SEVERAL OLD RECIPES FOR CHEAP AND DURABLE PAINTS FOR WOODEN SURFACES:
- COTTAGE CHEESE AND LIME:
Equal amounts of fresh cottage cheese and slaked lime are thoroughly kneaded. A white, rapidly drying liquid is formed.
It must be used the same day, because it quickly deteriorates.
Ocher and some other colors can be added to this composition. In this case, it is necessary to use as little water as possible, as it negatively affects strength.
The paint dries very quickly and does not leave the slightest smell. Therefore, it is possible to cover the surface with two layers in one day.
To give the color more strength, after applying two layers, it is polished with pieces of coarse cloth.
- STARCH AND PAINTING:
From 10 weight parts of wheat starch, filled with cold water, a composition is obtained that resembles thick sour cream in consistency.
Stirring constantly, boiled water is added until the composition of the desired density is formed. For greater strength, 1 part alum or borax can be added to the warm paste.
To prepare the paint, zinc white and any colored paint, vegetable or mineral, are added to the still hot paste.
Then zinc chloride is dissolved in water and a small amount of tartaric acid is added to it.
Before use, mix the first mixture with this solution. The amount of material and proportions do not matter much. The paint is applied in the usual way. It is low flammable, not afraid of dampness and cold water, but it can be washed off with hot water and soap.
- POTATO PAINT:
Take 1 kilogram of potatoes and boil it. Peel while still hot, pour 4 large mugs of water. After that, it is necessary to knead everything into porridge and rub through a sieve so that no lumps remain. Add 1.5 kilograms of powdered chalk, which is pre-diluted in 4 cups of water. The result will be about 8 mugs of grayish, durable, good opaque and very cheap paint.
All of these paints have been tested and give excellent results.
* PROCESSING OF WOODEN (etc.) PRODUCTS:
1. In order to prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of fly ash. After that, they dried it, and, if necessary, continued processing of finer details.
ASH LYE is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing woven products and for processing wooden products.
Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (best of all - birch) to the state of white ash (ash). Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and the water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.
2. In a strong decoction of crushed OAK BARK, our ancestors either boiled (a couple of hours) or soaked (for a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, reed ... Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.
Once upon a time, in the mid-80s, my father and brother and I were building a country house. In those days withthe material was tight, so a house was built from what was found. The house turned out to be a two-story frame-panel house with an attic on a high strip foundation. Moreover, between the shields, knocked together from boards from various boxes, we rammed ordinary earth, taken out during the construction of the foundation and the cellar under the floor. Later, the house was sheathed with sheet slate.
And when the question arose about painting the wooden attic and the veranda, I came across a wonderful Soviet magazine "Do it yourself", which described the method of preparing paint from natural ingredients. My father - "golden hands", naturally decided to try this remedy. The ingredients were bought from nearby stores and soon the house was painted with a "Finnish composition". A green tint was added for the color. For more than seven years, we did not touch or paint the wooden veranda with anything, until my father wanted to expand it (our family increased, grandchildren were born).
Yes, it turned out that it is not so easy to disassemble the old boards. Thanks to the Finnish composition, the tree became stronger, not a single wood borer touched it, and the nails were firmly stuck in the fibers of the tree, only rusty hats flew off.
After the expansion of the veranda, the walls were again painted with this composition. Until now, in the summer, father and mother move to this house and live there until the end of the summer season, growing a wonderful crop of vegetables and fruits.
Painting wooden walls
Painting the exterior walls of a wooden house is a problem that confronts the owner of a painted wooden house every 5 to 7 years. Many people prefer to paint the walls with oil paints. But they do not realize that by doing so they reduce the life of the house. It turns out that under a layer of oil paint at constant humidity, microorganisms develop that destroy the wood. In addition, a house painted with oil paint hardly “breathes”, stagnant smells appear in it, etc.
Currently, two very cheap paints are known: Swedish and Finnish compositions, which are devoid of the disadvantages of oil paints and even have some advantages.
The main advantages of the Swedish and Finnish compositions over oil paints:
One and a half times more durable;
Several times cheaper;
The house after painting "breathes", and the paint does not let moisture through.
When re-painting a house with these compositions, preparatory operations are not required (compared to oil paint): stripping of old paint, priming, etc. Before re-painting the walls with a Swedish or Finnish composition, it is necessary to sweep a bit with a hard broom.
Swedish and Finnish compositions have one removable drawback - they can be painted on dry old wood that does not have traces of oil paint.
Freshly planed wood must be deresined before painting. These issues will be discussed below.
Swedish squad:
flour (rye or wheat) - 1160 g;
iron vitriol - 520 g;
table salt - 520 g;
lime pigment (dry *) -520g;
drying oil natural - 480 g;
water - about 9 liters.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water. They do it like this. Pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead. The resulting dough is diluted with cold water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Then, with vigorous stirring, add the remaining water (boiling water) in a continuous thin stream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot paste and dissolved with stirring. Then a pigment (modern color) is added to the hot solution and everything is thoroughly mixed.
Drying oil is poured into the solution in a thin stream and again vigorously stirred. Then the remaining (3 l) hot water is added, diluting the composition to a paint consistency.
Finnish squad:
flour - 720 g;
iron vitriol - 1560 g;
table salt - 360 g;
lime pigment - 1560 g;
water - about 9 liters.
Both compositions are prepared in enameled dishes based on 1 - 1.5 hours of work. The thickened composition can be diluted to paint density with hot water, but this reduces its strength.
Usually, the finished composition is wrapped up so that it is warm during the entire time of work. As working utensils, where the required amount is poured, suitable plastic cans are taken. Frequently cut bottles from car oil, tasol, etc. are best suited for this.
Both compositions are applied to wooden surfaces with a brush or roller in two passes. Coloring is done in the afternoon, when the sun sets. Composition consumption - 250 - 300 g per 1 sq. m.
Paint without primer.
Old oil paint is removed using all kinds of washes, both standard (SD, AFT-1, SP.-7), and home-made.
The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water to a creamy state.
This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and left for 1.5 - 2 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. At the same time, the old paintwork can be easily removed.
Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) 25% solution - is added to form a liquid paste.
The surface to be treated is covered with a paste and left for 1 - 1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old lubricant, is washed with a 1% solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After that, they are washed with water. Resin removal of freshly planed wood consists in removing from the surface of the wood all resinous substances that prevent adhesion (sticking) of paints. Before painting with oil paints, deresining is not necessary, since oil paints adhere to such surfaces due to the homogeneity of wood resins and drying oil, on which oil paints are prepared.
Ash lye is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing textiles and for processing wooden products. Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best) to the state of white ash (ash).
Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and the water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.
2. In a strong decoction of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don’t remember exactly the time - it seems a couple of hours), or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wickerwork - from bast, flax, hemp, cane (I don't remember the whole list).
Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.
Natural paint - 10 times cheaper! Very sensible article with personal practical experience!
When was the last time you painted your house? :)
This year I had to feel the price of paint. And at the same time I felt how the system “protects” us from unnecessary knowledge and feeds on this.
I decided to paint the house, which is already 6 years old, and at the same time a workshop and a guest house. Until they're in the middle. And how it began: jar after jar, that was not enough, then it did not fit. As a result, paint is the second largest waste this season - 20 thousand rubles.
I think this is unreasonable. It's like if a woman buys a dress, if she sews beautifully herself, but is too lazy to find a suitable pattern.
It is one thing to buy seedlings, seeds, mycorrhiza for 20,000 rubles - this is an investment for centuries! Or dig a pond for centuries. Or buy 20,000 boards and roofs to attach a veranda - it will definitely stand for 20 years.
What about paint? First, nothing really changes in life. Secondly, there is just enough paint for 5-7 years, then it spoils the mood with its appearance.
Decided it was unwise to invest in the insignificant. Moreover, you can make the paint yourself. Higher quality, in any quantities and very cheap!
I first learned about homemade paint from friends in the Ark - they painted their house like that. Several years have passed and I have matured. Further information from them.
Hello Vadim!
Here is the Finnish composition that we used and the recipe for its preparation. I don't remember where I copied it from.
Finnish paint recipe
REMEMBER how Tom Sawyer toiled when Aunt Polly made him paint the fence? It turned out that in vain we all spend so much effort on painting wooden structures.
Practical residents of Finland have found that oil paint does not contribute to the durability of wooden houses. Studies have shown that moisture accumulates under the paint, creating an optimal environment for the development of microorganisms that destroy wood.
Better to use our Finnish composition, they say. Indeed, such houses, picket fences, stand for decades without being destroyed. I propose to promote the Finnish composition for painting houses, buildings, fences in Russia more widely. This will save billions, it is better to preserve the housing stock and outbuildings. The Finnish composition, frankly, is a godsend for the villagers, gardeners.
Finnish composition for coloring:
rye or wheat flour - 720 g
iron vitriol - 1560 g
table salt - 360 g
dry lime pigment - 1560 g
water - 9 l
The highlight, as they say, lies in the strict observance of the technology for preparing the Finnish composition. First prepare the paste. They take flour, gradually add cold water in order to bring the flour to the consistency of thick sour cream. The rest of the 6 liters of water is topped up while hot. Now the paste is filtered and put on fire.
Constantly stirring, salt is added, then iron sulfate, dry lime pigment. Now pour in the rest of the water (hot) to obtain a working paint composition.
Apply to the surface with a brush in two passes. Solution consumption - 300 g per square meter. If the house or picket fence was previously painted with oil paint, it is completely cleaned off. Primer is not required. A picket fence treated with a Finnish composition can stand without repair for up to 20 years.
It is known that houses painted with oil paint do not pass air well. The composition is devoid of this drawback. It is advisable to arrange the production of kits of the Finnish composition with instructions attached. Everyone will benefit.
Our experience:
We read this recipe, got inspired and decided to try it. Iron vitriol is no longer sold in stores (or you have to look hard), but it was at the Bird Market in Moscow. He's probably on some base.
I believe that any person, having a telephone directory and a telephone, can easily cope with the search for vitriol even in a small town (especially if the answer: “We don’t sell vitriol”, ask: “Maybe you know where it is sold?”. As a rule, people are willing to share this information).
The bigger mystery for us was the “lime pigment”. It took a little longer to find him. First it was necessary to understand what it was in order to be able to explain to the sellers (they all, as one, ask again: “Lime?” - “No” - “Chalk?” - “No, it’s pigment. Limestone.” - “What about This?")
As the name implies, a pigment is an additive that sets the color of the mixture. Apparently, before the pigment was a common commodity. Most often it is a finely ground colored clay. This is perhaps the best and most environmentally friendly option. For example, I would avoid pigments based on chromium oxides (green) and so on. Moreover, they are noticeably more expensive than ground clay.
As a result, we found some kind of base in the Moscow region that sells pigments. We made a joint purchase, collecting orders for the settlement.
When we had all the ingredients, we, according to the indicated recipe, prepared the paint. They wrapped the bucket in a blanket and painted the house with a hot mixture, using ordinary brushes and cut plastic canisters as temporary containers.
Notes
1. If there are wooden elements on the house that you want to leave a natural wooden color, then do not touch them with paint: the wood immediately darkens from iron sulfate. This is not visible under the paint, but if you wash it off, then there will be gray wood (the same as uncovered old boards).
2. Galvanized nail heads will lose the zinc layer (iron is restored from vitriol by oxidizing zinc. So you can not buy galvanized nails, but just simple iron ones, they are cheaper).
3. Need sunny weather during painting and a couple of days after it.
4. In the rain, a wet wall is slightly smeared. We reassure ourselves that the walls of the house are not built to rub against them in the rain :) (there is a composition with the addition of drying oil: they write that it does not smear).
5. Went 7 years (for 2014), the paint is holding. In places most intensively watered by rain, the effect of transparency appeared and the color was slightly lost. But you can see the texture of the wood and it still creates a pleasant look. In any case, it is by no means sloppy (in dry weather, the wall looks more beautiful than in wet weather).
6. Painting a two-story house, 6x6 m in size in two layers, cost 260 rubles (two hundred and sixty rubles, and most of the price is pigment).
Summary. In general, the result is good. The house looks good. Summer 2014 I want to repaint the composition with linseed oil.
A few words about drying oil. Natural drying oil is, most often, natural linseed oil. It is also called technical linseed oil.
Linseed oil has one effect, which is why it is used to coat wood: when heated and applied to wood, it absorbs and dries, forming a durable protective layer. Drying occurs because flaxseed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids (omega-3 and others). Not all oils dry out over time, some form a non-drying and sticky film to the touch.
All "regular" drying oils sold in stores contain a mixture of vegetable and synthetic oils. By themselves, they dry out worse than heated linseed oil (or do not dry at all). In order for painters to be comfortable (so as not to heat up and then not wait until it dries) - manufacturers add special substances (driers) to the mixture of oils that speed up the drying process of the oil.
Unfortunately, the most common and simplest (cheapest) additive is lead compounds. Therefore, drying oil is not recommended for indoor use.
Technical linseed oil is not so easy to get, but in almost every supermarket there is ordinary edible linseed oil, which costs about 100 rubles per half liter (there are more expensive, but why?). Maybe you'll be lucky to buy expired, if you ask the merchandiser.
Floor covering
There is also an interesting experience in covering the floor with linseed oil and wax.
He heated linseed oil in a saucepan, put a piece of natural beeswax there (for 0.5 liters of oil - a piece the size of half a little finger). The temperature of the oil was determined by dipping a match into the oil. If she starts to "squirt", then it's time to paint. It is better to use a brush with natural pile, plastic will melt. If the oil is overheated, then it is better to wait to cool down, because otherwise the natural brush will “curl”.
The oil is applied to the surface not like when painting, but is rubbed in small amounts: you dip the brush a little and then rub it with effort over as large a surface as possible. Naturally, boards should be not only dry and planed, but also polished, this reduces oil consumption and makes the surface more pleasant to the touch, almost glossy.
The work of rubbing oil is a good physical activity :). But the better you rub it, the better the coating will be. Do not forget about the temperature of the oil. If it has cooled down, it is necessary to heat it up again (hot oil penetrates deeper into the wood).
Thus, I covered half the floor on the second floor with one coat. Three years later, the coating not only did not wipe off, but became even smoother and matte-glossy (an intermediate option between gloss and a simple matte board). The color of the wood has not changed at all.
Since I covered only half of the floor (then I didn’t have time, and then I didn’t have time), now the difference between the covered and uncovered floors is visible. Coated looks just as good as it did 3 years ago, maybe even better due to the extra polishing with the feet. The uncoated floor acquired a slightly grayish faded tint (compared to the coated one) and dried out more.
There is something to compare it with: with nothing covered floor on the veranda and the floor on the first floor, covered with "yacht varnish". An unfinished floor grays a little, and the varnish cracks, scratches and rubs over time (partly due to the softness of spruce), and cracks, scratches and abrasions darken. And this happens already for 2-3 years of operation.
Summary:
If I knew in advance, I would immediately cover the entire floor with heated linseed oil and wax (however, so far there is no experience of observing the coating in places of the most intense abrasive wear, on the veranda, in the hallway). But so far - this is the best and most durable option, and very inexpensive.
"Yacht varnishes" seem to be more suitable for hardwoods. But still it cracks, gets dirty, wipes off. After 3 years, the look is already sloppy.
In those places of the house where a person's foot rarely steps, you can leave just a wooden floor. It fades a bit over time, but that's not a problem.
When building a house, garage and other buildings made of wood, it is necessary to paint wooden surfaces. We will not talk about the naturalness and environmental friendliness of wood, but we will focus your attention on the colorful coating, which, as a rule, is purchased ready-made, in a store or on the market.
In our time, we are already accustomed to buying ready-made paint, produced at a paint and varnish enterprise. Let's face it, you have to pay a lot of money for good paint. But most importantly, if we buy some paints that can cover the surface of wood with a film, then there will be no trace of environmental friendliness. We will not only see the colorful coating, but also hide the wood under a layer of paint.
Another thing is natural-based paints that can not only preserve wood, but also give it an elegant look. However, you can not only buy paints, but also cook yourself. Moreover, the manufacture of such natural paint is much cheaper than buying it in a store.
Basically, there are recipes for Finnish paints, probably in Finland they have long understood that paint can be made independently. The composition of paint on wood includes the following components: hot water 80 liters, two buckets of ten liters of diluted rye flour 8 kg, in water, two buckets, 7 kg of iron sulfate, 1 kg of table salt, 6 liters of drying oil and 30 kg of ocher.
There are other recipes for Swedish paint, for example, in smaller volumes of 10 lire: rye flour 800 g, iron sulfate 400 g, salt 250 g, drying oil 300 g, dye, ocher, etc. 300-600 g, and water is added to mixture up to a volume of 10 liters. If you use such paint for painting roofs, then 500 g of drying oil is added.
Once upon a time, in the mid-80s, my father and brother and I were building a country house. In those days withthe material was tight, so a house was built from what was found. The house turned out to be a two-story frame-panel house with an attic on a high strip foundation. Moreover, between the shields, knocked together from boards from various boxes, we rammed ordinary earth, taken out during the construction of the foundation and the cellar under the floor. Later, the house was sheathed with sheet slate.
And when the question arose about painting the wooden attic and the veranda, I came across a wonderful Soviet magazine "Do it yourself", which described the method of preparing paint from natural ingredients. My father - "golden hands", naturally decided to try this remedy. The ingredients were bought from nearby stores and soon the house was painted with a "Finnish composition". A green tint was added for the color. For more than seven years, we did not touch or paint the wooden veranda with anything, until my father wanted to expand it (our family increased, grandchildren were born).
Yes, it turned out that it is not so easy to disassemble the old boards. Thanks to the Finnish composition, the tree became stronger, not a single wood borer touched it, and the nails were firmly stuck in the fibers of the tree, only rusty hats flew off.
After the expansion of the veranda, the walls were again painted with this composition. Until now, in the summer, father and mother move to this house and live there until the end of the summer season, growing a wonderful crop of vegetables and fruits.
Painting wooden walls
Painting the exterior walls of a wooden house is a problem that confronts the owner of a painted wooden house every 5 to 7 years. Many people prefer to paint the walls with oil paints. But they do not realize that by doing so they reduce the life of the house. It turns out that under a layer of oil paint at constant humidity, microorganisms develop that destroy the wood. In addition, a house painted with oil paint hardly “breathes”, stagnant smells appear in it, etc.
Currently, two very cheap paints are known: Swedish and Finnish compositions, which are devoid of the disadvantages of oil paints and even have some advantages.
The main advantages of the Swedish and Finnish compositions over oil paints:
One and a half times more durable;
Several times cheaper;
The house after painting "breathes", and the paint does not let moisture through.
When re-painting a house with these compositions, preparatory operations are not required (compared to oil paint): stripping of old paint, priming, etc. Before re-painting the walls with a Swedish or Finnish composition, it is necessary to sweep a bit with a hard broom.
Swedish and Finnish compositions have one removable drawback - they can be painted on dry old wood that does not have traces of oil paint.
Freshly planed wood must be deresined before painting. These issues will be discussed below.
Swedish squad:
flour (rye or wheat) - 1160 g;
iron vitriol - 520 g;
table salt - 520 g;
lime pigment (dry *) -520g;
drying oil natural - 480 g;
water - about 9 liters.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water. They do it like this. Pour the flour with a small amount of cold water and knead. The resulting dough is diluted with cold water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. Then, with vigorous stirring, add the remaining water (boiling water) in a continuous thin stream. The paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt and vitriol are poured into the hot paste and dissolved with stirring. Then a pigment (modern color) is added to the hot solution and everything is thoroughly mixed.
Drying oil is poured into the solution in a thin stream and again vigorously stirred. Then the remaining (3 l) hot water is added, diluting the composition to a paint consistency.
Finnish squad:
flour - 720 g;
iron vitriol - 1560 g;
table salt - 360 g;
lime pigment - 1560 g;
water - about 9 liters.
Both compositions are prepared in enameled dishes based on 1 - 1.5 hours of work. The thickened composition can be diluted to paint density with hot water, but this reduces its strength.
Usually, the finished composition is wrapped up so that it is warm during the entire time of work. As working utensils, where the required amount is poured, suitable plastic cans are taken. Frequently cut bottles from car oil, tasol, etc. are best suited for this.
Both compositions are applied to wooden surfaces with a brush or roller in two passes. Coloring is done in the afternoon, when the sun sets. Composition consumption - 250 - 300 g per 1 sq. m.
Paint without primer.
Old oil paint is removed using all kinds of washes, both standard (SD, AFT-1, SP.-7), and home-made.
The simplest wash is a mixture of quicklime - 1.3 kg and potash - 0.45 kg, mixed with water to a creamy state.
This liquid mixture is applied to the old paintwork and left for 1.5 - 2 hours. Then the mixture is washed off. At the same time, the old paintwork can be easily removed.
Another recipe for effective washing is as follows: lime dough - 0.5 kg, sifted chalk - 0.5 kg, caustic soda (caustic soda) 25% solution - is added to form a liquid paste.
The surface to be treated is covered with a paste and left for 1 - 1.5 hours. Then the paste, together with the old lubricant, is washed with a 1% solution of acid (hydrochloric, acetic, citric, etc.). After that, they are washed with water. Resin removal of freshly planed wood consists in removing from the surface of the wood all resinous substances that prevent adhesion (sticking) of paints. Before painting with oil paints, deresining is not necessary, since oil paints adhere to such surfaces due to the homogeneity of wood resins and drying oil, on which oil paints are prepared.
Ash lye is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing textiles and for processing wooden products. Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (I read that birch is best) to the state of white ash (ash).
Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and the water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.
2. In a strong decoction of crushed oak bark, our ancestors either boiled (I don’t remember exactly the time - it seems a couple of hours), or soaked (here I remember the time - a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wickerwork - from bast, flax, hemp, cane (I don't remember the whole list).
Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.
