We make a kitchen table with our own hands (better and cheaper than purchased). Table: material, manufacturing technology, schemes, designs - simple and complex How the bent legs of the Malaysian kitchen table are attached
Landscaping is an ongoing process. You build something, you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. How to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands we will tell in this article using the example of finished projects.
Homemade table from boards from pallets
Dismantled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, you can use new boards. Only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (it costs more) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and soak for at least 4 months, or better, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, therefore we will not glue the tabletop boards, but fasten them from below, with the help of planks. It's very simple country table and very cheap.
Having dismantled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different manners, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice table.
We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the frame of the table. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then finely bring them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the countertop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two self-tapping screws for fastening each board with a joint, one for a solid one.
From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded), we assemble the table frame. We fix its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also "planted" on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. Under each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws.
We turn the assembled countertop over and grind it. The order is the same - first with sandpaper with a large grain, then with a fine one.
Next up is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, adjust if necessary. Then again grinding. It's easier than sanding already screwed legs. We fasten the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each - two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. About 10 cm can be left from the floor to the jumpers. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be necessary. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.
If you do not like motley boards and traces of old nails, you can make their boards the same design. This table can be rectangular, maybe square. All dimensions are arbitrary - see the available space.
Country table from the remnants of the boards
This do-it-yourself table for giving is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide went to the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were left on the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So let's make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length is 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
We immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the width of the table top 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. We fold the frame, following right angles, twist with screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut off the boards four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
Approximately at the middle of the height of the legs we fasten the crossbars. This is a shelf frame. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor, check whether it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a grinder and grind.
Let's start assembling the countertop. From finishing works there were boards of different types of wood, some painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them with a finisher. On the shelf can be fixed with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then smooth with a grinder. The last step is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark appearance didn't like it. Will have to sand again and paint a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. IN this case 20 mm. To keep them well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the caps. Diameter can be matched to furniture plugs suitable color or make them from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the traces will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90°. As a pattern, you can choose a bar. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with carpentry glue, then install the screws in next sequence: first two extreme, then middle, and only then the other two. After the glue dries, sand the legs, varnish and dry.
It's time to make the tabletop. It is assembled from boards of the same thickness. Pick up the size you need. You can use fragments of different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the table top with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they managed one, but preferably at least three. We tighten so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished countertop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or a regular hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After grinding, we get a beautiful countertop.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round countertop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and trim the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin bar, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the countertop. Finishing nails can also be used. Only the planks are also pre-lubricated with carpentry glue, and then with nails.
After the glue dries, we again process the junction with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We fasten it to the back of the countertop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the countertop. Under the confirmations, a preliminary hole is drilled with an extension for the cap. Holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach with ordinary screws. That's it, we made a table for giving with our own hands.
How to make a wooden garden table with benches
For this table, boards 38 * 89 mm were used (they dissolved themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not really affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
Parts are installed in place, drilled with a drill through hole. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. How convenient is this option? For the winter, you can disassemble and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
We cut the boards according to the drawing required size. Everything is necessary in double quantity - for two seats. grinding boards, Special attention pay attention to the ends.
We cut the short segments with which we fasten the three seat boards along the edges at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble a structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long, at the end we attach two short boards cut at an angle to it. Attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, it is not necessary to knock them down close. Leave a gap between two adjacent at least 5 mm. We nail to the supports (which are cut down), two for each board.
We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by setting them diagonally or one above the other).
Putting together a table
The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn along the edges at 52 °. We fasten them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small hats, or you can hammer deep, and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the legs-crosses. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We circle the intersection with a pencil. At this point, it will be necessary to remove the wood by half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them together, they are in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
Similarly, we make the second leg for the table. While the table is not collected.
Installing the table
Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.
Now install the table top. We also fasten it with studs. The last step is painting. Here everyone does as he likes.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make benches and a table separately for giving, garden. The design is reliable and easy to implement.
Do-it-yourself table for giving: drawings
The variety of shapes given to curved furniture legs can be applied to a variety of contemporary types of furniture, not just antique style pieces. At the same time, for home master the most attractive is the simple model of the curly leg homemade furniture offered by the French magazine System D.
The methods of manufacturing curved supports described in this article are not a repetition of those that are usually used in furniture factories - they are more affordable and are great for small teams of furniture workshops and individual craftsmen.
Figure 2 shows, for example, three types of legs that are the easiest to manufacture and profile: for a bureau, a stand for knick-knacks, and a multi-purpose upholstered stool. Next to them are the shadow contours of the bars from which they were obtained. Thanks to a well-thought-out cutting method, such figured furniture supports require less effort and material, while the waste is no more than in the manufacture of more complex models.
The use of a bandsaw or an ordinary bow saw, and even more so of a jigsaw, makes it relatively easy to obtain this kind of curves: curved legs of the simplest shape can be cut in rough and finished by hand, and even faster than on a machine.
Rice. 1. Template for a bent table leg (plywood, s10) and its use on the workpiece.
1-high leg for bureau; 2-medium leg for stand, nightstand, 3-small leg for bench.
blank
Since some parts of the legs are very thin, you need to use a dense and durable wood, such as maple or birch. These two species are also particularly suitable because, when subsequently finished, they make it possible to successfully imitate walnut or mahogany.
The first step is to prepare a bar exact dimensions so that the entire leg of the corresponding profile can be cut out of it. Therefore, it can be "composite" - glued from boards 35 mm thick.
The planes of the boards rallied at the same time must be processed with a jointer and more precisely adjusted. If possible, use hot curing glue (for example, PVA). Make sure that the clamps clamp the boards evenly along the entire length. Allow the adhesive to fully cure before starting the next operation.
In the case of riveting the workpiece for the leg, which must withstand significant loads, it is very important to use high quality glue.
To make the workpiece, a template is used that makes it easier to draw the contour of the leg on its edge. It must be taken into account that the contour must be drawn on two adjacent faces of the workpiece, with bulges to each other.
While the glue on the workpiece dries, make a template (for example, the one shown in Figure 1) from a piece of plywood 10 mm thick. First, cut a strip of plywood to the desired length and width. The conceived look of the leg can also be drawn on it (the main contours of the three leg models are shown in the figure with a grid). However, in order to achieve maximum accuracy of the bending line, the template must first be drawn on a piece of rigid cardboard, then the outline is cut out and applied to plywood, from which and a template will be cut along the contour (each, of course, is intended for only one piece of furniture).
The curved line on the left of the template is the back face line of the leg; the line on the right in the same figure is the front face.
Mark the profile of the workpiece using the template. Carefully check the coincidence of the contours on the edges of the bar (without such a check before cutting, the workpiece may be damaged). The two front sides of the leg are most visible in the finished product, but all four sides of the legs are visible from certain points, especially when viewed along the length of the table.
a - for the legs of heavy furniture, b - for a light table, c - for a stand, d - for a bench.
Sawing
In order to cut a curved profile on a workpiece of similar thickness, it is better to use a jigsaw.
Scrape off any adhesive that may have come out of the joints under pressure when gluing the boards into the workpiece, and carefully sand the edges. When sawing, strictly adhere to the intended contour and do not press the workpiece on the saw, because this can cause overheating and jamming of the saw blade.
After one part is sawn out, put the cut piece in the old place and fasten both parts with one or two pins, placing them so that the saw blade cannot touch them during the second filing of the edge. Installing the cut piece in the old place gives a large plane of support for subsequent cuts. Nevertheless, this support cannot be fully relied upon - if the end of one part of the workpiece rises slightly during saw operation, this can cause the blade to jam and disable it.
After small curves have been sawn, proceed slowly enough as haste will result in poor cutting accuracy.
Finishing the workpiece
The protruding corners on the legs of the obtained sample are usually preserved, the corners at the top of the bulge are sometimes rounded. All irregularities after sawing should be destroyed by grinding with a sandpaper or a well-honed scraper (scraper). The latter tool is particularly recommended for long curved surfaces; in order to avoid jamming of the cutter, it must be adjusted in such a way as to remove the thinnest possible chips with each movement.
In conclusion, process all curved profiles on all faces - uncorrected defects will complicate the final finish.
If the leg is intended for a table, the plane of the end at its upper part must be aligned at right angles to the vertical edges, and cutouts must be made on it for connections with the supporting elements of the cover.
Options - any
The models of the legs shown in the figures are marked, cut and finished in the same way, in approximately the same way as described above. On the legs, the outer protrusion can be rounded. A support part is attached on top of the curved legs, in which grooves are cut for assembly with the rest of the furniture. This model is very suitable for a radio equipment stand or for a banquette by the fireplace. But the use of such a leg is not limited to these types of furniture, it can be longer or shorter, have a different shape of the upper part; this model can be applied in a variety of cases.
Rice. 4. Making a small leg (simplified version):
a - sawing a bar; b - the resulting leg blank, c - manual refinement of the leg blank - with sandpaper on a bar, d - finished bench with bent legs.
The short leg shown in Figure 4 is very suitable for a low stool or bench. The sample of a simple leg, which we see in the figure, does not, strictly speaking, belong to the old style, but its silhouette consists of the same curves, which allows us to attribute this sample to the same category of curved legs. the contour is so simple and the size is so small that it can be drawn by laying a piece of cardboard with an approximate profile on the workpiece. However, this short leg is sometimes difficult to cut due to the uneven texture of the wood.
Before sawing the workpiece, you need to make sure that all its edges are at right angles to each other - this is necessary to ensure reliable support when sawing.
A short leg is usually fastened with a long screw or mounted on plug-in round spikes (dowels), with glue on the contacting planes.
A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is fairly straightforward and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for an overly small kitchen. Buying custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up tools and design your own “work” on your own, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to show their creative abilities in the conditions of a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for the job
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- Planer, which level the wood and drive the parts to the desired size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws of various sizes and modifications, which are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for grinding.
Many of the tools can be replaced by more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work for which the various saws mentioned above were previously used.
Jigsaw rating - A grinder will help to make surfaces even and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes twisting each screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The building level will help to make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
So that the finished furniture does not turn out "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
To make a similar country table - everyone can do it Necessary materials
For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:
- Timber, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Joiner's glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame details);
- 1580×100×25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, it is carefully passed from above grinder. Fine-grained sandpaper will remove the faded raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the details for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.
Frame or "box" of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on big table or on the floor. On the end boards, the location of the inner and outer boards is marked. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. Be sure to accurately note the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end, especially if the connection will be made by tie-in.
The connection of elements can be carried out in different ways:
Connection with the choice of "quarter" and using metal corners
- using a steel corner - this is the simplest and most reliable way;
- the tie-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of tongue and groove connection - “groove-thorn”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for beginners with no experience;
- dowel connection is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.
- All connections, as a rule, are carried out using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building corner and measure and compare the length of the diagonals.
- If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, cladding boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their fastening also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also planted on glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be sunk into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next step is the transverse sheathing of the tabletop with boards 950 × 100 × 25 mm. The place of their fastening must also be marked first, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The worktop protrusion above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Further, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the extreme boards are also fixed to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. In order to avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, it is necessary to drill through holes.
- After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the table top.
The next step is to install the legs. - The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. With this home-made putty, fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire countertop, and especially the places covered with “corks” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After that, the table can be varnished or painted on water based. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in summerhouse, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally hit, so the table is quite safe for installation in the children's room.
- The presence of a double-sided capacious bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a worktop of sufficient size so that the child, sitting at it, can do homework.
- In addition, on the tabletop there is a place for a laptop or books necessary for studying.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if a soft cloth is laid on its surface.
Given all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Learn how and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article of our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a comfortable piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the details that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Table diagram with assembly part numbers marked (clickable illustration - click to enlarge) | part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Production material, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top. | 1 | 600×475 | Plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | Groove element for the movement of the legs on the table top. | 2 | 120×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove, which limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table. | 2 | 720x520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | The horizontal details of the pedestal, forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | Bottom vertical part internal partition pedestals. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the pedestal. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the pedestal. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | The front panel of a drawer of a curbstone. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Bottom panel of the drawer. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Drawer handles and drawer doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg piece. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture hinges for doors. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the pedestal. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of the table, which can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, modern electric tools will be required that are able to bring the workpieces to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
It is worth starting the manufacture of the table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact pedestal.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or a circular saw, is to cut blanks for the countertop, 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm in size. |
 | Further, marking is carried out on a larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or you can make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or a circular saw with the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Further, a milling cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will be joined to the second part of the countertop even. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are laid on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markup for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the countertop. Furniture hinges may have different shape, so they should be laid in the marked place and circled with a simple pencil. Then, with the help of a router, special curly grooves are arranged in plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. In the finished holes, the loops are fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the table top with hinges, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, markings are made to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed by a milling cutter: 530 × 30 mm in size - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm - 1 pc., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the rails, are cut off at the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These sections are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the legs along the formed channel. Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the countertop, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed with glue, and then the longest rails, having a size of 530 × 20 mm, are screwed with self-tapping screws, then the part 122 × 20 mm blocks the channel. On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but a greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places for screwing in the screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails. In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the table top. All elements must be processed to smoothness and perfectly evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made on lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made. In extreme cases, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness. Then, on the upper end part of the leg, with the help of a dowel and glue, a guide square plate made of plywood, measuring 80 × 80 × 18 mm, is fixed exactly in the center. |
 | Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with a water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured plywood pattern. After that, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of cabinets. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out with a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be machined to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and provides reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and fixed. Holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case, the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be located at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before drilling, it is necessary to carefully mark out. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed. Then the door walls are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a comfortable position in height, a point is marked through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. The paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but also protect the material from damage. negative impact specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the nightstand. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can assemble on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on even bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the caps of the self-tapping screws after assembly will have to be masked with various compositions. The build process goes like this: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels and its location are marked with a pencil using a building corner. -Immediately, the location of fasteners is simultaneously outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After that, before gluing the parts, places for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, shelf-holder brackets are mounted, for which holes are also drilled. - Further, dowels lubricated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - In the same way, non-removable jumper shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before proceeding, make sure the adhesive is in assembled structure dry well. To make the cabinet more rigid, it is laid on its side and compressed with clamps for drying. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the drawer can also be done using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for mounting fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Further, the dowels are smeared with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | Between themselves, the sidewalls are twisted with the help of self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be drowned in wood, and the holes are sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sidewalls from the inside with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then first, on the sides of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet, the place of their attachment is determined. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the box. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. It is recommended that, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is used to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together by four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the front panel, through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the connection of the cabinet and countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But, first, the countertop must be properly positioned. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the legs towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm. |
 | Having fixed the tabletop, go to final installation and screwing on the screws of the bedside table door. Then a drawer is inserted, and shelves are installed on the shelf holders. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or simply there is a great desire to prove oneself in carpentry, then you should not postpone self-manufacturing. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: round table assembly example
And another idea kitchen table, independently realize which, incorrect, will also be within the power of a skilled owner:
Video: lightweight collapsible kitchen table
Everything in this life is short-lived, including furniture, or rather, its individual parts. At a folding table, it is the legs that “fail” very often, and a dilemma arises: change the table or replace this part? Believe me, this is no more difficult than making a do-it-yourself playpen, everything is much simpler.
To start the process, the main thing is to acquire the necessary tools and a lot of patience, then your table, whether it is round or rectangular, will be able to get new curly legs.
Modern decor involves the use different styles, so this part can be made of wood, chrome-plated metal. Today we will look at the traditional version of the legs, made on the basis of the use of dense hardwood.
For these purposes, it is necessary to prepare:
- bars measuring 25 × 50 mm in the amount of 8 pieces;
- glue them, having received the necessary 4 blanks for future legs with a size of 50 mm by 50 mm.
We will not make balusters, because such work requires special carpentry skills and abilities, we will limit ourselves to the standard form.
The best option is to have a stock of such blanks, as they say, just in case of a fire and unforeseen circumstances. Check availability in advance necessary tools especially at the professional level. Plays a huge role and proper preparation workplace that requires free space and having the necessary tools at hand.
Stages of creating a part
When choosing wood, pay attention to its structure and grain direction. Now you can proceed to the main action, having previously decided what the legs will be - folding or you will choose folding ones. Such options are possible and even convenient, but a little more difficult to create.
Do not forget to open the legs with a special solution that will prevent the formation of fungi and insects, as well as paint and varnish if necessary.
To call this method the simplest is difficult. Perhaps on initial stage there will be problems, but in the process everything will smooth out, a “second wind” will open and you 
you won't notice how the new set of legs sits on your table.
If earlier you did not deal with carpentry at all, then there is a real opportunity to try your hand, especially since numerous blanks give such a chance. Believe me, the result of your efforts, even if it is far from perfect, will bring a lot of pleasure and invaluable experience!
The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table to the cottage or for a picnic, you can build in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.
This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate from the living rooms production room: Woodwork is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means toning and protecting wood, like wood stains, emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.
The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:
- Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
- It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.
A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is easy to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:
The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, timber harvesting horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not kept at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; complete plastic replacement they don't have yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.
Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.
wooden humpback
Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free means of protecting wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for front panels furniture: covered with varnish on top, it does not exfoliate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.
Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.
First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop small tool stacked on a wall pallet shelf.
With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.
Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the most weakness table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.
Legs for tables industrial production fastened with split sides, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.
Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to push up to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.
For tables on rectangular base the heads of the legs for blind fastening should also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.
Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
tabletop
The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.
Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them to you willingly and for quite affordable price they will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the end of the PVC with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
- Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
- Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wyme boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.
Often, tabletops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. Gather at the plaza good board shield it won’t work: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end during assembly. But typesetting tabletops from fragments are obtained in skillful hands just wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. Tiled and her fight is glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with drinking grout, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.
Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.
Underframe
The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.
no frame
Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.
... and get into the kitchen
Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. It is not only cheaper, but also more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.
The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But the table top made of boards in this case is not the best. the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, very complex and time-consuming, subject to splitting. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.
Note: the idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.
How to make a semi-folding round table, shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.
Moving on to the living room
The table in the main room of the house should be to face the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.
A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.
All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.
How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that key knot- damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. factory same coffee table-transformer rarely when it pulls less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.
The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.
By the way, the good old "sliders" with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they can by no means be called popular: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We will get the board back in the underframe, and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at first.
In addition
A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.
Video: wood glazing master class
