Glowing balls with your own. Glowing balloons. Video instruction: How to make glowing balloons with your own hands

In this article you can read about how you can quickly and simply and in a very original way decorate an evening celebration. In fact, to add color to a night event, quite ordinary balloon IR, LED, tape, and battery. In this article you will read about how they can be successfully combined into an interesting decoration for a holiday.

How to make glowing balloons with your own hands:

Perhaps some of you have already seen such an original creation of design ideas as luminous balloons, picture No. 1.

Figure No. 1 – Glowing balloons

Of course, the secret is simple, and there are ready-made gadgets to make the ball light up, Figure No. 2.


Figure No. 2 – Special contraption

You just need to turn on the LED and inflate the balloon, but probably not everyone knows where to buy this kind of thing, there is a way out, and you don’t really need to “wrap yourself up”, you just need to take an ordinary LED and glue a battery to it (preferably 3 V) picture No. 3.


Figure No. 3 – LED with battery

All that remains is to put the LED inside the balloon (Figure 4) and inflate it. This combination will give you the effect of a glowing balloon, picture No. 1.5. With which you can decorate your room, creating a festive atmosphere.

Figure No. 4 - LED is placed in a balloon
Figure No. 5 – Glowing balls

P.S.: I tried to clearly show and describe not tricky tips. I hope that at least something is useful to you. But this is not everything that can be imagined, so go ahead and study the site

Balloons can be considered the most striking and sought-after decoration for any holiday; preparing them for a celebration is very simple, and modern advances in the field of decoration have made them indispensable elements for decoration. The ability to fill balloons with light gas - helium - allows you to create flying elements that have a special attractive force and do not leave anyone indifferent.

Filling balls with various contents (smaller balls, sparkles, etc.) is not new today, but adding a luminous element to a ball gives more opportunities to decorators. You can apply to decorate your holiday with such a new product by clicking on the link Glowing balls.

Instructions

In order for the glowing balls to have a long service life, consistency must be observed.

  1. Before starting production, decide on the color of the balls and select the color of the LEDs accordingly. It is better to arrange a children's party in bright colors, and, for example, a wedding - in gentle ones.
  2. Let's start manufacturing: the design for the backlight is quite simple, it is an LED and a battery, they should be connected, observing the polarity. The connected elements are wrapped with matching electrical tape, or a small piece of a long narrow ball, about 2 cm long, is put on them.
  3. The next step is to place the connected battery and LED into the ball. If the entrance hole is narrow, widen it and push the light source inside, stretching the ball to test its strength.
  4. Inflation. To perform this process, you should follow safety precautions and use safety glasses, since if the balloon bursts, its internal contents may fly off into your face. Try not to overinflate the balloon to prevent it from bursting, always leave it a little soft, this will extend its life.

Materials

Using a minimum of items, you can make excellent glowing balls for your holiday:

  • balloons of various colors;
  • small coin batteries;
  • LEDs;
  • scissors;
  • insulating tape;
  • helium balloon;
  • eye protection glasses;
  • ribbons for balls.

Decorating a party glowing balls, remember that they will look more impressive indoors with low lighting, and on the street - in dark time days. Compositions from glowing balls will help you plunge into a magical atmosphere and will become the highlight of your holiday.

Will decorate any children's party, party, birthday. Making your own balls is quick and easy. The work does not require special skills or expensive equipment, and the balls will glow and delight with their radiance for more than three days.

Choose the color of the balls and LEDs

For children's party It is better to use colored LEDs, or select a luminous element to match the interior of the room. For weddings, white LEDs are often used - they glow brightly in the night sky and are a good replacement for Chinese sky lanterns.

Important!

The darker the room, the brighter the balls will glow. Therefore, it is better to launch at night.

If you are having a theme party in blue and white or blue colors, then it is better to put a white LED in the blue ball. It glows brighter than blue. In a green ball the color is almost invisible, in a pink ball it is visible. Yellow, orange and red balls can easily use a red LED - it is the brightest of all.


First of all, you need to connect the battery and the LED. To do this, use electrical tape, masking tape or ordinary tape.

Important!

Pay attention to the polarity of the battery and the LED - you need to apply the elements plus to plus, minus to minus. If they are connected incorrectly, the LED will not light up.

Both elements have a larger and a smaller surface. Large is a plus, smaller is a minus. Taking this into account, connect the battery and LED and wrap it with electrical tape. Now the LED is not going anywhere. Using this scheme, we prepare all the LEDs that you intend to use - plus to plus, wrapped, put aside.

If you purchased transparent or white balloons, it would be better if the colored trim did not stand out from the balloon. In this case, we recommend using transparent tape.

It is also very easy to attach an LED with a battery using sausage balls, which are also used to make “dogs”. Take the ball and cut it into pieces about 2 cm long - we get rubber bands.

You insert the scissors into the rubber band, move them apart, and insert the battery and LED inside the rubber band, remembering the polarity “plus to plus.” This rubber band tightly holds the LED on the battery and covers the legs, which will not tear the ball when inflated.


If you are lucky and you bought large balls, then the LED can easily get inside. If the ball is small, then you need to carefully push it deep into the ball.

Important!

Better take big balls.
You can also stretch the ball and put LEDs inside. It will be much faster. In addition, by stretching the ball, you additionally test its strength. And if there are holes in it, then it will break.


Inflating the balloons

When you inflate balloons, you must protect your eyes, because no matter how good the balloons are, there will definitely be holes in them. And when the ball bursts and the LED flies out, it can injure your eyes.

Important!


We put the ball on the gas cylinder. You need to inflate it until a small balloon appears. If you overinflate a balloon, deflate it a little because an overinflated balloon will pop on its own. We make a drop-shaped ball and tie it with a ribbon.

Balloons and bright lanterns are a common attribute of many holidays. Separately they are good, but together they are even better. Creating glowing balls will not take much effort or free time, but the result will exceed all expectations.

You will need: ordinary multi-colored balls, button batteries, LEDs, scissors, adhesive tape, eye protection glasses, gas cylinder, as well as ribbons to tie the balls.

Video instruction: How to make glowing balloons with your own hands.

Today, when the “handmade” trend is in trend, making things with your own hands for the home is relevant and also rational. Great solution as decorative element there will be inflatable balls with glowing lights inside. It certainly won't be complete lighting fixture, but it will fit perfectly into the interior, as a festive decoration for a birthday or any other holiday.

Most often, LEDs are placed in balloons. But other devices can also serve as a light source. This article will tell you how you can make such a beautiful and unique part of the interior with your own hands.

Various formats

Balloons are ordinary decoration any holiday: birthday, New Year, wedding anniversary, etc. But if you insert a luminous element such as LEDs into them, you will receive a unique interior design element. And by making such lamps yourself, you will not only surprise your friends, but also delight your child.
The most important detail here will be the light source - the LED. It directly determines how beautiful and bright the ball will turn out.
Today, you can make luminous balloons with your own hands from the following light sources:

Ball with tablet

  • glowing tablet element. It is a widely used lighting option. The light source here is an LED tablet. It is quite simple to make such a design, and the light source itself will easily fit into any type of ball. The glowing “heart” will look especially beautiful here. But such a tablet is not suitable for large-scale illumination, since it is not capable of creating uniform illumination of the ball. Here only the bottom of the inflatable product will be illuminated, since the tablet has sufficient weight. Sometimes the glow is not noticeable at all if viewed from a certain angle. Another disadvantage of this design will be the short glow period;
  • glow stick. In its middle, the stick contains an LED (some sticks use several diodes). In addition to the LEDs, it has a built-in battery for autonomous power supply. Making such a luminous ball is quite easy and quick. But the disadvantage of this design is the sufficient weight of the stick and its noticeable location inside inflated balloon. As a result, such a balloon cannot be filled with helium. But for a party this is quite enough;

Note! You can buy such a stick in a specialized store, or you can make it yourself from improvised materials.

Balls with a stick

  • fixed stationary LED. This option will be the most quality solution for self-organization of lighting balloons. This assembly option has gained popularity because it is possible to place the LED higher. In addition, LEDs for balls can be found much easier than a tablet or stick. This is an option for any life situation.

Note! A big advantage of using stationary LEDs to illuminate inflatable products is their ease of operation. This balloon can be inflated with either gel or regular air.

LED balls

Whatever option you choose to create “space balls”, you can do everything yourself. The complexity of the whole design lies only in presenting the inflatable ball and the LED as a single whole.

Preparing materials

In order to quickly mount such an original inflatable ball, depending on its type, you will need the following materials:

  • air balloons;
  • 3V batteries for the wand;
  • LEDs 3V;
  • hot glue or tape;
  • LED flashlight for tablet assembly.

As for tools, you can use a glue gun and a soldering iron to complete the assembly.

Preparing for work

To make a glowing inflatable ball with your own hands, you must follow the assembly instructions:

  • First of all, you need to decide on the type of inflatable balloons. Using this method you can highlight a ball of any color. Usually multi-colored ones are used at holidays, but for a wedding or party you can choose balloons of a certain type. color range(if there is any special theme of the celebration). In addition to the usual round products, here you can use curly and oblong balls. The simplest lighting will be for standard and oblong products;
  • after that, we decide on the type of backlight to use: stick, tablet or stationary LED. Further in the instructions we will stick to the situation of installing the LED, since this is the most optimal option;
  • choose LEDs. For a birthday, you can use colored LEDs, but for a wedding it is better to stick with white ones. Their light in the night sky will be especially bright and festive. Do not insert an LED of the same color into the ball. This will make its glow invisible;

Note! The choice of LED color should be made based on the shading of the room in which the holiday will be held. When the room is brightly lit, the illumination of the balls will be almost invisible, no matter what color you choose. And in dimly lit rooms they will show your craft in its maximum beauty. Therefore, such products will fit perfectly into any party.

LEDs

    ⦁ next we connect the LED to the battery. For attachment, you can use electrical tape or regular tape. It is better to use tape, as it will not interfere with the LEDs. At this stage, it is important to make the connection correctly. Therefore, pay attention to the polarity of the battery. All elements must be connected minus to minus and plus to plus. The larger part on the battery is a plus, and the smaller part is a minus. Otherwise the LED will not light up. Checking for correct connection should be done immediately, and not already in the ball;
  • check the connection for strength. All elements must be firmly fastened. Otherwise, when placing this structure inside the ball, the batteries may simply fall out.

Using this scheme, we prepare LEDs for all the balloons that will need to be inflated and illuminated. The first element will take you a few minutes, but each subsequent element will go like clockwork.
Now we have all the elements to assemble this inflatable holiday decoration.

Let's start assembling

The most important and crucial moment remains - to connect all the elements into a single structure or place LEDs in balls. The easiest way to assemble an LED-battery device is, of course, to fit into large balls. But if the product is small, then everything should be done very carefully so as not to pierce the ball itself or interrupt the contact between the battery and the diode.
Assembly occurs according to the following scheme:

  • we check the strength of the prefabricated device;
  • stretch the hole in the ball and carefully push the LED with the battery inside. In addition to introducing the LED, stretching allows you to test the strength of the product. If there is a defect or hole in it, it will definitely break at this stage;

Plowing device

  • after that we inflate the balloon. Here, to prevent eye injury if the product ruptures, be sure to wear safety glasses. You can inflate either with your mouth or with a balloon;

Note! The ball, if it has a standard configuration, should take on a teardrop shape. Do not overinflate the product, otherwise the risk of it bursting increases during operation of the LED.

  • we tie the ball with a bright and beautiful ribbon and the work is completed.

As you can see, it’s easy to make LED balls with your own hands. Just follow the instructions above and your holiday will be a success!


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    Wood for the struts and base of the dome (the amount depends on the type and size of the dome); Addressable LED Strip Light(Color LED Pixel Strip 160led WS2801 DC 5V) – 5 meters; Arduino Uno microcontroller (based on Atmega328 processor); Protopayment (two-way printed circuit board PCB Universal (7 x 9 cm)); Acrylic sheet for diffusion of LED light (transparent, size 300 x 300 x 3 mm); Power supply 220V AC / 12V DC 15A 180W. (without cooling fan); Voltage converter for Arduino (LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter 1.23V-30V); Voltage converter for sensors and LEDs (12A CC CV Module); Obstacle detection module with IR sensors for Arduino (Infrared Obstacle Avoidance Sensor Module) – 120 pcs; Module with 16-channel multiplexer (CD74HC4067) – 5 pcs; Module with 8-channel multiplexer (Multiplexer Breakout - 8 Channel (74HC4051)) – 6 pcs; Two-channel multiplexer chip (MAX4544CPA +) – 5 pcs.; Connecting wires; Pin contacts (single row block for 40 contacts, 2.54 mm long); MIDI connector (MIDI connector compatible with motherboards(5-pin DIN)) – 5 pcs; 220 Ohm resistor for MIDI connectors – 10 pcs; Metal spacers (stands) for attaching electronics to the dome (Stand-off Spacer Hex M3 Male x M3 Female); Threaded adapters (wood - metal) for installing metal dividers; Epoxy adhesive; Insulating tape; Solder. Step 2: Designing a Geodesic Dome

    There are several online resources on the Internet for creating your own geodesic dome. These sites provide dome calculators that calculate the length of each side (i.e. the post) and the number of connectors needed for whatever type of dome you want to build. The complexity of a geodesic dome (i.e. the density of triangles) is determined by its class (1V, 2V, 3V, etc.), with higher complexity becoming a better approximation of the ideal spherical shape. To build your own canopy, you first need to select the diameter of the canopy and its class.
    To calculate this dome, a service called Domerama (www.domerama.com) was used. With its help, a dome of complexity 4V was calculated, truncated to 5/12 of a sphere with a radius of 40 cm. According to the calculation results, six different racks are provided for this type of dome:
    30 X "A" - 8.9 cm
    30 X "B" - 10.4 cm
    50 X "C" - 12.4 cm
    40 X "D" - 12.5 cm
    20 X "E" - 13.0 cm
    20 X "F" - 13.2 cm
    There are a total of 190 posts, the length of which is 2,223 cm. For their manufacture, pine slats measuring 10 x 30 mm were used. The racks were designed and 3D printed for installation plastic connectors. Depending on the number of mounting locations in the connector, the 4V 5/12 dome required the following number of connectors:
    4 local connector – 20 pcs;
    5 local connector – 6 pcs;
    6 local connector – 45 pcs.
    3D models of connectors for Autocad in STL files are available at the links below:
    4joint_v1.stl 5joint_v6.stl 6joint_v2.stl
    Step 3. Building a dome with posts and connectors

    Using calculations from the Domerama service for a 4V 5/12 dome, using circular saw All 190 posts were cut, then labeled and placed in a box. All plastic connectors (73 pieces) were printed using a Makerbot 3D printer. Now it's time to assemble the dome!
    In order to assemble the dome, you need to start at the top and gradually move radially down. Once all the posts were connected, each post was removed individually and put back in, but with epoxy glue added between the post and the connector. The connectors were designed to allow some flexibility in the design, so the symmetry of the dome had to be checked after each rack removal and installation.

    Step 4: Laser Cut and Install Base Wood Plates

    Now that the dome skeleton is built, it's time to cut the triangular base plates. These base wooden plates are attached to the bottom of the posts and are used to mount the LEDs on the dome.
    First, the base plates were cut from 5mm thick plywood in the shape of five different triangles that sit on the dome: AAB (30 triangles), BCC (25 triangles), DDE (20 triangles), CDF (40 triangles) and EEE (5 triangles). ).
    The dimensions of each side and the shape of the triangles were determined using a dome calculator (Domerama) and existing geometry. After cutting the test base plates using a jigsaw, the triangle design was created using Coral Draw software. All other base plates were machine cut laser cutting(much faster!). If you don't have access to a laser cutter, you can trace the outlines of the baseplates onto the plywood using a ruler and protractor and cut them all out using a jigsaw. Once the base plates were cut, the dome was flipped over and the plates were glued to the dome with wood glue.
    Step 5: Electronics Review

    The picture above shows the electronics circuit for the dome. An Arduino Uno microcontroller is used to write and read signals for the dome. To illuminate the dome, RGB "pixel" LEDs are used, so there is one LED in each of the 120 triangles. Each LED can be addressed individually using an Arduino microcontroller, which generates serial data and a clock signal for the strip (see pins A0 and A1 in the schematic).
    To interact with the dome (i.e. make it interactive), an IR sensor was installed above each LED. These sensors are used to detect obstacles, in this case, they detect when someone's hand is close to the triangle on the dome. Since each triangle on the dome has its own IR sensor, and there are 120 triangles in it, we had to multiplex the signals in front of the Arduino microcontroller. It was decided to use five 24-channel multiplexers (MUX) for 120 sensors on the dome. Five 24-channel MUXes require five control signals. For them, pins 8 - 12 on the Arduino microcontroller were selected. The output data of the MUX modules is read using pins 3 - 7.
    Also included in the design are five MIDI outputs for audio playback. In other words, five people can play the dome at the same time, each with one output playing a different sound. There is only one TX pin on the Arduino microcontroller, so the five MIDI signals require demultiplexing. Since the MIDI output signal is generated at a different time than the reading of signals from the IR sensors, the same control signals were used.
    After all the IR sensor inputs are read into the Arduino microcontroller, the dome begins to glow and play sounds, but everything depends on the programming of the controller.
    Step 6: Mounting the LEDs on the Dome

    Because the dome is so large, the LED strip had to be cut to fit one LED into each triangle. Each LED is glued to the triangle using superglue. A hole was drilled on each side of the LED through the base plate to route the wires inside the dome.
    Then the connecting wires were soldered to each pin at the output of the first LED (5V, GND, CLK, DATA) and the ends were passed into drilled hole. The wires must be long enough to reach the adjacent LED. Then the wires are pulled to the next LED, soldered to its input, and the process is repeated along the chain. The LEDs were connected in a configuration that minimized the amount of wire required but still made sense in terms of addressing the LEDs. Alternatively, separate RGB LEDs with shift registers can be used.
    Step 7: Sensor Design and Implementation

    For the dome, it was decided to use obstacle detection modules. These modules have an IR LED and a receiver. When an object enters the module's detection field, IR radiation from the IR LED is reflected toward the receiver, which detects it and changes the logic level at the module output. The threshold of the sensor is set by a potentiometer on the board so that the output is high only when the hand is directly near this triangle.
    Each triangle consists of a plywood LED base, a sheet of diffuse acrylic mounted 2.5 cm above the LED plate, and an infrared sensor. The sensor for each triangle was mounted on a sheet of thin plywood in the shape of a pentagon or hexagon depending on the position on the dome (see picture above). To do this, holes were drilled in the base of the infrared sensors so that they could be screwed on with a self-tapping screw. After which the wires (5V and GND) were connected.
    The hexagonal or pentagonal IR sensor mounts were then glued to the dome epoxy resin, directly above the 3D printed connectors so that the wire can pass through the dome.
    Step 8: Multiplexing the IR Sensor Outputs

    Since the Arduino Uno microcontroller has only 14 digital inputs/outputs and 6 analog input pins, and we need to read signals from 120 sensors, the use of multiplexers is required to read all the signals.
    It was decided to build the circuit on five composite 24-channel multiplexers, each of which reads the signal from 24 IR sensors. In turn, each such 24-channel multiplexer (MUX) consists of 8-channel, 16-channel and 2-channel MUX boards.
    The 24-channel MUX requires five control signals, which were decided to be connected to pins 8 - 12 on the Arduino microcontroller. All five 24-channel MUXes receive the same control signals from the Arduino, so the wires from the Arduino pins were connected to all 24-channel MUXes the same way. The digital outputs of the IR sensors are connected to the input pins of the 24-channel MUX so that they can be serially read into the Arduino microcontroller. Since five separate contacts are used to read all 120 sensors, the dome is divided into five separate sections consisting of 24 triangles (see dome colors in the picture).
    Step 9: Diffusing Light with Acrylic

    To diffuse the light from the LEDs, a clear acrylic sheet was sanded with a circular orbital grinder on both sides. While sanding, drawing the number “8” seemed to be the most practical way.
    After sanding and cleaning the acrylic, it was used laser cutter, to cut out the triangles, but so that they fit inside the triangles on the dome above the LEDs. Can cut acrylic using acrylic cutting tool or even a jigsaw if it won't crack. To prevent the acrylic triangles from falling through, flat wooden strips 5 mm thick were glued inside the triangles on the dome.
    After this, the acrylic triangles were glued into the dome using epoxy glue.
    Step 10: Making Music Using MIDI

    In order for the dome to play sounds, you need to install and connect MIDI connectors for each of the five sections of the dome, as shown in the diagram.
    Since the Arduino Uno only has one serial data port (pin 2 is designated the TX pin), the signals sent to the five MIDI connectors need to be demultiplexed. For this, the same control signals were used as for the multiplexers (pins 8 – 12), since MIDI signals are transmitted later than the signals from the IR sensors are read. These control signals are sent to the 8-channel demultiplexer to select the MIDI connector to which audio data will be output.
    Step 11: Powering the Dome

    There are several consumers in the dome. Therefore, you need to calculate the current drawn by each component to determine the power supply you will need.
    LED strip: Approximately 3.75 meters of WS2801 LED strip was used, which consumes 6.4 W/meter. This corresponds to 24 W (3.75 * 6.4). To convert this to current, the formula is P = I * V, where V is the voltage of the LED strip, in this case 5V, and P is the power. Therefore, the current consumed by the LEDs is 4.8 A (24 W / 5 V = 4.8 A).
    IR Sensors: Each IR sensor consumes approximately 25mA, for a total of 3A for 120 sensors.
    Arduino microcontroller: 100 mA, 9V.
    Multiplexers: There are five 24-channel multiplexers, each consisting of a 16-channel and an 8-channel multiplexer. Each 8-channel and 16-channel MUX consumes approximately 100 mA. Therefore, the total power consumption of all MUX is 1A.
    When you add up all these components, the total power consumption is about 9A. LED strip, infrared sensors and multiplexers have an input voltage of 5V, and the Arduino microcontroller has a 9V input voltage. Therefore, a 12V 15A power supply, a converter to convert 12V to 5V and a converter to convert 12V to 9V for Arduino were selected.
    Step 12: Circular Dome Base

    The dome has a round base made of thick plywood, which has a pentagon-shaped cutout in the middle for access to the electronics. To create the base, a sheet of plywood measuring 122 x 182 cm was used. Cutting was done on a CNC milling machine, but it can also be cut using a regular one. electric jigsaw. Once the base was cut, it was attached to the dome using small wooden cubes(50 x 70 mm) and self-tapping screws. Then the power supply was installed inside the dome (glued with epoxy resin), printed circuit boards with multiplexers (installed on metal separators) and a microcontroller.
    Step 13: Pentagonal Dome Base

    In addition to the round base, a pentagon-shaped dome base with a viewing window at the bottom was also made. This base and viewing window were also made from plywood using a CNC router. The sides of the pentagon are made of wooden planks, but holes for connectors were added to one side. Using metal brackets and 2 x 3 cm butt joints, wooden boards were attached to the base of the pentagon. The power switch, MIDI jacks and USB jack are attached to the front panel. The entire pentagon base is screwed onto the circular base described in step 12. A window was installed at the bottom of the dome so that anyone could look inside the dome to see the electronics. The sight glass is made of acrylic material laser cut and glued with epoxy resin to a round piece of plywood.
    Step 14: Programming the Dome
    There are endless possibilities for programming the dome. Each code cycle receives signals from IR sensors that indicate triangles that have been touched by someone. With this information you can paint the dome any RGB color and/or output a MIDI signal. Here are a couple of examples of programs that were written for the dome:
    Color Dome: Each triangle cycles through four colors as you touch it. When the colors change, an arpeggio is played. With this program you can color your dome in thousands of different ways.
    Music Dome: The dome has five colors, each section corresponding to its own MIDI output. In the program, you can choose which notes will be played in each triangle.
    and other programs: Simon.ino, Pong.ino
    Step 15: Photos of the completed dome

    Note: In the original instructions you will also find examples of program codes and excerpts from them for programming individual components. As well as links to various resources that were used in the development and creation of this project.
    Original: instructable


  • At Ponce City Market, as the sun set, a spectacular light show was displayed that made every viewer feel like a child. Featuring 256 glowing helium balloons with LEDs inside, the Cyclique LED installation contributes to spiritual development of the city of Grenoble in France, in the form of digital art created by Collectif Coin.
    The public art installation display began at sunset and was repeated several times over the course of one evening, reaching approximately 700 square meters area. The balls danced synchronously to the beat of the soundtrack, which provided the highest quality sound, bringing back childhood memories.
    The combination of light and sound is part of the aesthetic and an attempt to stimulate audiences in different age categories. According to the installation designer, using these components separately is not enough to achieve the desired effect, but their combination allows you to create something larger, more dynamic and memorable.
    Each time the installation looks different. Sometimes, adults become children again and experience true happiness when a balloon light show is shown. And sometimes entire groups of people spend hours watching the installation work, calming down and immersing themselves in the space of light and sound.
 
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