Etching the board with hydrogen peroxide at home. PCB manufacturing. Board etching Hydroperit for board etching
This is an edited repost from my LiveJournal
For etching, we need 37% hydrogen peroxide (optional) or, in extreme cases, 3% pharmacy, citric acid, table salt and hot water or a microwave (if the peroxide is pharmacy). From funds personal protection- gloves and always tight-fitting goggles (possible for swimming), to protect the eyes.
After an unsuccessful first experience of etching with 37% hydrogen peroxide with electrolyte effervescence, red eyes and coughing (), conclusions were drawn and the concentrations were changed.
My unfortunate experience with electrolyte effervescence was very helpful. And I took note of a few things:
- Etching in a hot solution goes well, very quickly. So fast it's worth the risk of boiling over.
- It must be possible to drain or cool the solution.
- The solution foams insanely, and this is a mega plus - because. Bulbulator is not required, it occurs naturally.
- You have to be smarter and more careful.
In general, this time I did it very strictly. Firstly, I placed the container in a bucket so that in case of boiling up, it would not run away anywhere. Secondly, I did not make boiling water, but about the temperature when the first bubbles begin to appear, but does not boil. Water was 1.7 liters. 100 grams of 37% peroxide (I note that the total concentration is even lower than with pharmacy), 2 full tablespoons of citric acid (then I added 2 more), a tablespoon table salt.
hellish gurgles
The result was not long in coming. The board was 10x15 cm (the size of a standard photo). I dropped everything, saw that it was bubbling, poured in a little more acid (the bubbling became stronger, after the second spoon nothing had changed). And went to the kitchen to drink some water. I returned, and the board is already etched!
Result
Total! Etching speed is about 2-3 minutes! The solution did not boil or run away (was less hot and less peroxide concentration). After pulling out the board, the solution continued to seethe and live its own life.
In general, summarizing:
- It is necessary to poison in small concentrations, but with a very hot solution. For pharmacy peroxide, heat OPEN in the microwave.
- It is necessary to be able to either quickly cool the solution (by pouring into it cold water), or dispose of it by pouring it into the sink. Therefore, the use of low dishes, such as plates, is not suitable! Only with high sides.
- You need to follow the solution, or make such infernal adaptations, like mine
- To poison ONLY in a vertical container!
In general, I advise you to use hydrogen peroxide for etching. It poisons quickly, cleanly and affordable. Doesn't stain clothes. If anything, the stains are all wiped with vinegar.
Z.Y. Etching speed is very important when etching such small parts!
We take a bottle of 3% pharmacy hydrogen peroxide 50 ml.
Also take a bag of food citric acid in the amount of 10 grams.
Put a teaspoon of table salt. Together, these 3 ingredients will allow you to etch a PCB in 40 minutes.
We prepare a printed circuit board, apply a drawing using a marker or LUT technology. Pour citric acid into a container for pickling, based on a board 40 × 50 mm 10 grams of citric acid. We put a teaspoon of salt, mix, pour 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide, wait until it dissolves. You don't need to add water. The water used is the one that is already in the purchased hydrogen peroxide solution. You don't need to warm up. The board must be immersed in the solution by 5 mm. Pickling time 40 - 50 minutes. The solution is safe for the skin of the hands. The video shows an example of the simplest etched board, drawn in 15 minutes with a marker, already tinned.
discussion
arm strong
board etching in solution 1st. L. Cuprumceo - 4 + 2 tablespoons of sodium chlorine per 400 ml of water (I warm it up to 70 Celsius before etching in a water bath. Then I restore the solution after the first etching with iron, I use it 2 more times. And the citric acid + perhydrol + nacl method of course cleaner but not as cost-effective as mine. True, I don’t drain the spent solution into the sewer, due to the chemical activity to iron and cast iron, this is the only minus of the vitriol method. So I will always use it, and the quality of the boards is high.
Denis zhuravlev
Yesterday I went to a radio parts store to ask about peroxide etching. They looked at me strangely and said that they did not know such a method. I asked for ferric chloride - they said that everything was sold out, it will be in a couple of weeks.
Well, I think I'll try all the same to pickle with peroxide.
I bought 100 ml in a pharmacy (now it costs 6r-7r per jar), I took citric acid in the store, salt at home.
I had a textolite board 100x100. For my needs in abundance, therefore, in free areas, I decided to experiment with various elements of “shading”.
An ordinary black permanent marker - the area painted over with it is not etched. Ordinary white corrector (putty) - the same effect, ordinary adhesive tape - the same effect. The most convenient of these three materials is a permanent marker.
Then: 100 ml of hydrogen peroxide is heated in a water bath to a hot state (I did not measure the temperature), pour it into Plastic container(or somewhere else), 2, 5-3 teaspoons of citric acid, 1-2 teaspoons of salt. All this is stirred until dissolved.
We lower the textolite board with a copper layer down, but so that it does not touch the bottom. For this I used tape.
I set a timer for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, he took it out, and all the excess was etched out, everything that was painted over remained.
The solution turned blue-green as a result of this operation. I poured it into the toilet, there were no traces left.
In my opinion, this method is much better than ferric chloride or electrolysis in salt water. Moreover, all materials are cheap and affordable.
Stepa stepov
in the 80s there was a lot of nitric acid, they etched with a 50 to 50 solution with water, etching for almost a second, but the boards were drawn (in those years there were no laser printers) with furniture varnish, and pre-tinted with paste from a ballpoint pen! Azotka simply ate other paints!
At the moment, amateur radio has woken up, I want to assemble some shemka, (the device is on sale, but from 6 to 10 thousand rubles, collect it yourself = 0 rubles, everything is there), but I’m looking for what and how to poison! I’ll probably try in this way that the author suggested, I honestly learned about it for the first time.
Anton Ivanov
200ml Perikisi, 2 teaspoons of salt, 50g. Citric acid. I stirred everything, heated the solution in the microwave (I didn’t measure the degrees), while etching I shook the bath, the board is 100mm x 150mm. Etched in 10 min. Thanks for the recipe.)
Ruselectronic
perhaps in ferric chloride and it will be faster, I poison all my boards with lemon and peroxide. For comparison, what will be the cost of anhydrous ferric chloride? 60 -100 rubles for etching, if you do not drain and leave the solution for subsequent etching. Here, when etching in this way, the cost of etching, depending on the size of the board, is from 6 rubles for etching, a 40 x 50 mm board is easily etched for such a cost of 3 rubles peroxide bottle, 3 rubles citric acid). Without heating, etching takes 40 minutes, against 10 minutes, as written above, ferric chloride. The difference in time, I would not say that it is very significant, taking into account the time for preparing the board, loot, washing after etching, and so on. Let everyone choose for himself what he likes, overpay or wait a little.
Thepzkl
bullshit.
4 hour heated baiting, 80% only.
40 minutes. Storyteller
ruselectronic
Choose the concentration correctly before writing such posts. Paul Ineta poisons in this way. In people, even a drawing with a marker breaks off, if you go over it a little with concentration, and you have 4 hours with heating. This is where I find it hard to believe. Heating never did when pickling.
Ruselectronic
+ Vyacheslav Novikov is a thread tied to the mounting hole. From time to time, the board needs to be taken out of the solution completely, by the tied thread, in order to inspect for undercuts and remove gas bubbles that accumulate on the board and interfere with etching.
Ruselectronic
a permanent alcohol marker holds, but you need to draw with a fresh saturated marker and in several layers. And anyway, if you make the solution very concentrated, or heat it up, there will be small undercuts. But on the other hand, this method allows you to draw a simple scarf, literally in 15 minutes. There are special markers for printed circuit boards, r-teck, maybe they are more acid resistant, I have not used them.
Ruselectronic
any, as long as the board does not bend and deform under the weight of installed massive parts, such as transformers, or cooling transistors, amplifier circuits, diode assemblies, etc. Usually 1 mm is sufficient.
Ruselectronic
increase the proportions right amount times, as indicated, for the dimensions of my video board. You should hide the fee by at least a centimeter and a half, if you are worried that there will not be enough reagents for etching, and the reaction will stop, make the volume of all reagents with a small margin, the reagents are cheap, and I think there will be no cost problems. The board, when gas bubbles form on the board, remove from time to time from the solution to remove gas bubbles.
Ruselectronic
+ vladislav chaika maybe if the board was very small, and a lot of mortar was made and it did not react all. But it’s easier to try pickling a couple of times, to experimentally set the volume of the solution, the minimum required for one pickling, and do only it, than to bother, drain, etc. The cost of one pickling, so it turns out very low.
Dmitry sychev
a good method, I use it from the very beginning of the manufacture of boards, this solution has one minus, when it gets on clothes it leaves light spots, i.e. it eats away paint, so be careful.
Well, as they already wrote here, heating speeds up the process, I read what I needed in a water bath, but without messing up I put it in the microwave, and everything seems to be normal, but I don’t advise doing this, because food is still cooked there, and I don’t know how it is may affect.
Ruselectronic
I didn't understand the question a bit. Do you want to remove the solder layer and track from the board? When pickling by electrolysis in salt water, you will have to reconnect the electrode each time to new sections of the board as you pickle. In the case of etching with lemon and peroxide, this is not required. If the question was about whether this solution will take solder, I think yes, it is active to metals, and if so, then most likely the solution will be active to solder containing lead and tin.
Ruselectronic
the solution after etching is poisonous due to the content of dissolved copper in it. Pour it out, preferably somewhere on the street, not into the sewer, because even a reacted solution can still be active towards metals.
Vlad volf
tried everything. And ferric chloride, and the above recipe. It is best to poison with sulfuric acid. 5 tablespoons of acid, 5 tablespoons of water, 5-6 crushed hydrogen peroxide tablets, dissolve in the same place. Only acid must be poured into water, and not vice versa! The board is etched in a matter of minutes right before our eyes.
Ruselectronic
+ Dima Trofimchuk and ordinary table salt. These three listed, in the video, seemingly simple household ingredients, when combined, form a solution that is very active towards copper.
Ruselectronic
The day before yesterday I only poisoned the board, it poisons perfectly. You just have to stick to the recipe. Many who have tried this method about ferric chloride do not even want to hear now. At least cheaper every 6 - 8 for sure. In 40 minutes, any board is etched.
Ruselectronic
+ Maxim Rotenko, you need to select the concentration of the solution so that the solution does not boil, which happens if you make a supersaturated solution. Then there will be no undercuts. In general, I advise you to try again, it's not about the method, everything has been checked many times. And you need to iron it with an iron so that the toner cannot be torn off the board with a fingernail, I iron the board for 5 minutes, and hard at the edges. I understand if the undergrass would be under the drawing drawn with a marker, but this should not be the case with loot. Is the print color set to black? Is Toner Save disabled? Here is my last board at the link: http: //s50. radical. Ru/i127/1502/27/1da7b7df79bf. Jpg if there are any specific questions on the etching method, it is better to go to our group in contact https: //vk. Com/radio_beginner
apioskin
everything is correct and clear, thank you
but don't kill people like jewelers ;)™
thanks helped a lot.
Good luck man!
Don koks
what kind of marker is applied to the drawings of the tracks? I tried it with an ordinary black marker, which is not washed off with water - the solution eats up the tracks under the pattern.
I didn't try Lutom, because I need a printer with perfect printing, without printing extra stripes and dots.
From everything I tried, I use edding 792, edding 791 markers.
Ruselectronic
+don koks I tried different ones, the set of cd-pen markers was the best. They are double-sided, on the one hand a rod of normal thickness, on the other hand a rod drawing with a width of ball pen. The marker should write richly, so in a few hours we put the marker vertically with the tip down. The marker must be fresh. You need to draw in several layers, let the drawing dry and draw again. When drawing in 3 layers, there will definitely not be undergrasses. With loot, there are no undercuts at all. I use the marker only to touch up the drawing when looting. I have an old laser machine, hp laserjet 1000, it prints fine for loot. You just don't need to make large polygons, if there are small stripes and dashes on the tracks, this will all be hidden when the board is tinned. There are also markers produced specifically for drawing printed circuit boards, r-teck, cost 80 rubles, but I did not use them. During etching, from time to time we take out the board by the tied thread, from the etching tank. Bubbles from the surface of the board will disappear. Thus, we do not allow the solution to boil. If the solution boils, its temperature will rise, and there will definitely be undercuts on the board, the bubbles will tear off the protective pattern. It is not necessary to make a supersaturated solution, the reaction will proceed faster and there is a greater risk of underetching. Here is my last board, after transferring the drawing with loot, I corrected the drawing with a marker, as a result it turned out without undercuts, the paths are of course very wide. Http://s012. radical. Ru/i320/1412/77/e154b4eab159. jpg
ruselectronic
V Soviet time those without access to ferric chloride were poisoned by electrolysis in saline. The result was not impressive, since the contact connected to the board, as it was etched, had to be reattached many times to new sections of the board, and still there were unetched places. You can try, except perhaps as an experiment, if there is a large supply of textolite.
Realrubyx
I want to try one option later with the help of electrolysis: water, citric acid and power 5-6v 500mA. On the minus which nail to attach and into the solution and with the plus to grab the board and there too. This is an experiment!
Realrubyx
it took 25 minutes to etch, the effect is much better than with x. G. A third of a bottle of peroxide, a teaspoon (without a slide) of salt, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. Mix everything for a board measuring 8cm by 3cm. I drew with a marker that does not erase so easily., though you need to be careful so that this fucking peroxide does not “eat up” those places where the marker is, if you overdo it - kirdyk)
ruselectronic
Haven't tried heated. If the board is corrected, or drawn with a marker, I think there will be undercuts, because the more intense the etching, the greater the risk that it will be etched under the tracks. With loot, it is possible that the heated one will pass normally.
Ruselectronic
+ Chingachguk Mohican I didn’t try to replace it myself, but people on the forum tried replacing citric acid with acetic acid, but according to reviews, the results seemed to be worse, or there was a smell, I don’t remember exactly now. But for some reason, I did not try this replacement then. There were some downsides.
Ruselectronic
Good evening. I pour in the street, just in the ditch. I do not recommend it to the sewer, since even a reacted solution is still very active towards metals.
Ruselectronic
I don’t know what kind of gases, maybe chlorine, given the formula of sodium chloride nacl, but it is released in very small quantities. You can smell its smell only if you bend over the container in which you poison and inhale. I always bully in the bathroom, it has air vent and that's enough for me.
Ruselectronic
the etching time depends on the concentration of the solution. If it boils during pickling, there may be undercuts under the drawing drawn with a marker. The pattern transferred by the toner is more reliable.
Alexei
only today I poisoned the board in a similar solution, only the proportions are somewhat different. 50x70mm board was etched in 20 minutes
proportions:
hydrogen peroxide - 100ml
citric acid - 30 g (weighed on a scale)
table salt - 5 g (also weighed on a scale)
I like it. Faster than ammonium persulfate. I cannot compare with ferric chloride, I have not used it.
To prepare the solution, you need to take 100 ml of peroxide, 50 grams of citric acid and one teaspoon of salt. Pour peroxide into a plastic round, pour salt and lemon there, then mix everything until completely dissolved. Water must not be present in the solution!
For good example efficiency of this etching method, I will etch two identical pieces of textolite, one in a solution of ferric chloride, and the other in a solution of hydrogen peroxide and citric acid. So, I prepared the solutions, placed pieces of foil textolite there and noted the time.
After 30 seconds, the solution with peroxide and lemon began to actively release bubbles. This indicates that the reaction is proceeding well. In a solution of ferric chloride, while silence.
After some 50 minutes, the board from the peroxide and lemon solution was completely etched, the liquid acquired a dark turquoise color. The board that lay in the xzh solution was pickled only after 2 hours!
From the above, I will draw some conclusions and talk about the pros and cons.
Peroxide and lemon.
Board etching time ranges from 50 to 100 minutes, depending on the area, this is a plus. You can reuse the solution, but not more than 2-3 times. The ingredients are affordable and not expensive, 50 g of lemon and 100 ml of peroxide cost me 32 rubles. The solution leaves holes on clothes and fabrics, this is a huge minus, so be careful, work with gloves and do not touch clothes. Here's what happened to my rag the next day:
Ferric chloride.
This ingredient costs from 50 rubles per 100 gram jar. You can get it only in cities where there are radio shops and chemical shops. The board etching time varies from 2 hours or more, depending on the area. But there is a big plus, with a solution of ferric chloride, you can etch many more boards, for example, after each etching, I pour the solution of ferric chloride into a bottle and use it again, for about a year and every month, I collect 2-4 schemes and a solution still alive, significant savings!
I don’t find it difficult to say who won, peroxide and lemon are considered a one-time solution, but the boards poison quickly. Ferric chloride is not available to everyone, the etching time is from two hours, but the solution serves for a long time. That's it, don't forget to comment!
Traditionally, boards are etched with ferric chloride, as previously described in an article about laser ironing technology. However, ferric chloride has a number of disadvantages. In particular, it leaves indelible stains on clothes and furniture. Plus, ferric chloride is sold only in specialized stores and is relatively expensive. Therefore, today we will consider an alternative and devoid of these disadvantages approach, which consists in the use of hydrogen peroxide, citric acid and table salt.
I did not invent any of the following, I only bravely found it through Google. The primary source, as far as I can find out, is the article Safe public composition for etching copper at home on radiokot.ru, which was written by someone under the nickname Murlock in 2012. However, I do not exclude that this method of etching boards could be independently rediscovered by several people. The article is cool and strongly recommended for reading, but here I just give a brief squeeze.
So, we will need:
- 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. A jar with 100 ml of solution was purchased at the nearest pharmacy for 12 rubles ($0.21);
- Lemon acid. A bag of 50 g of citric acid cost me 35 rubles ($0.60) at the nearest grocery store;
- Salt. Eat in any salt shaker and effectively cost nothing;
fun facts! Hydrogen peroxide has an expiration date, after which it stops working. I checked.
These components are mixed in a glass or plastic dish in the ratio of a teaspoon of citric acid (about 7.5 g) per 25 ml of hydrogen peroxide, plus a teaspoon of salt. The amount of salt does not depend on the amount of the other two reactants, since the salt here acts as a catalyst. Mix well and you can pickle:
The solution has a pleasant medical smell. Initially, the solution is clear, but during the reaction it becomes blue, while the solution may bubble slightly. Copper dissolves completely, without precipitation. In terms of speed, the reaction is comparable to the speed of a fresh solution of ferric chloride. It took me 10 to 25 minutes to etch the board, depending on the amount of copper to be etched. That is, the reaction can be accelerated by providing filled areas in the board design.
In case you are wondering what I was etching in the above photo - it was a small prototyping board with a DE9 port:
Subjectively, this etching method is many times more pleasant than in the case of ferric chloride. The solution does not get dirty, reagents are always available near the house and cost a penny, the reaction proceeds quickly. In general, now the only way and persecution.
Addition: There is, however, a drawback - the solution is not stored. I checked the same solution a week after preparation, and it no longer poisons anything. As for the etched board, an example of its use can be found in the post Using a Sega Genesis Joystick in Arduino Projects.
And how do you prefer to poison boards?
Good day, dear colleagues, beginners and not so radio amateurs! I decided to publish my article on Habré. Today, together with you, we will try to make a printed circuit board using hydrogen peroxide etching at home. The technology is called LUT (laser ironing technology). An iron is used by mothers or wives, one-sided foil fiberglass, a bottle of hydrogen peroxide 100 ml., Citric acid 80-100 gr., A teaspoon of table salt. I must say right away that this is my first board, I have never poisoned before, but since I decided to maintain my site radioenot.ru, I did it with detailed description and photographs. So if I can do it, then you can too!
Some advise a special old-style iron, but I personally succeed on this one.
But first, we need to purchase photo paper. Photo paper adheres better to fiberglass, so do not waste your time and choose the best, there will be fewer problems later. I tried later after this board to use plain paper and everything turned out very badly, although tolerably, but some of the tracks had to be drawn with a waterproof marker. By the way, get a marker, I recommend a marker for writing on CD / DVD discs or another marker, for example good feedback I heard about the lacquer marker. Actually need more laser printer, not anyhow, namely laser.
In the Sprint-Layout program, open finished project or we draw ourselves, but for starters, of course, it’s better to use something already tested by others, and print on photo paper after removing all sorts of auxiliary elements from the press, if such will be shown in the figure. After you have printed, you can proceed to drawing a picture on the board. Before this, fiberglass must be cleaned with a fine sandpaper.
Then we put our paper pattern down on the board and begin to iron with a heated iron. You can first iron one side holding the other with your finger so that the paper does not move to the side. You need to iron for about 5-10 seconds. In general, it is difficult to say how long it takes, it all depends on how hot the iron is and with what force to press on the board. I personally did not measure the exact time, but after learning that some people do this until the drawing begins to show through the paper a little, I took it into service and used the method, the only thing was to remove the iron as soon as something started to show through on paper.
After ironing, we need to remove the paper from the board. pouring warm water into the container and put our board there, after a few minutes you can start rubbing the wet paper with your finger carefully so as not to damage the pattern on the board.
It turned out that in some places there were some shortcomings. A marker came in handy, with which I painted over the gaps.
Now we are preparing a solution for etching with peroxide. Pour a bottle of peroxide into a container, stir a teaspoon of salt and 100 grams of citric acid until the salt and acid dissolve.
We put our board in the solution. But first I would like to talk about how it was best to pickle at home, the actual home conditions were not very suitable because during the pickling a pungent smell of acid appeared, after which I decided to put the whole thing on the balcony, but since it was outside cold, the oxidation process slowed down. I did the following: poured a bowl hot water and put a container with a board there, it turned out a water bath, after which the etching process went right before our eyes. After about half an hour, the board was etched.
Now we need to remove the paint. This is done very simply, with a swab dipped in acetone.
Drill holes with a small drill.
Every hole is clearly visible. This is what was required.
Next, you need to irradiate the board. Some really then drill holes after tinning. Some serve, some don't. I followed the path of the first, smeared the paths with flux and gradually began to apply solder. Flux used homemade, made from rosin and alcohol.
This is the payment we made. If I could, then you can too. Good luck!
