How to cut with a chainsaw correctly? tips from the sawmill. How to cut with a grinder Safety precautions and personal protective equipment
Although power saws now dominate the vast majority of carpentry shops, sooner or later you will inevitably encounter situations where manual sawing can be made easier or more efficient. Here's how to achieve maximum benefit from hand saws in critical cases.
When you need a hand saw
Some operations, such as trimming protruding dowels and plugs flush with the surface, forming oblique tenons, or sawing off short finishing profiles, are best done by hand. It is often faster and safer to cut cross-cut into blanks with a regular hacksaw than to try to balance with a long board at saw machine. And many carpenters simply enjoy hand-cutting tenons and other joints.
Although the hacksaw is often the best remedy cuts usually do not come out as clean as a miter saw or circular saw with high quality disc. Therefore, when the quality of the cut is important, sawing by hand should be slightly to the side of the intended line, and then remove the allowance by planing or grinding, or sawing to the final size on the machine with saw blade.
Three main saws
Of all the varieties of hand saws in every workshop, it is useful to have these three.
Japanese saws.
Such saws, various in size and design, including options with a back, work when moving "on themselves". This stretches the steel blade, making it thinner than for push saws. A stretched thin blade is less deformed and less likely to get stuck in the cut. Many consider this method of sawing more controllable. Japanese saws are used both for filing to size and for making joints.
If you often need to saw off protruding plugs and dowels flush, add a Japanese hacksaw with no set teeth to your collection - it leaves almost no scratches on the surrounding surface. (For most saws, the teeth are set apart, that is, slightly bent to both sides alternately so that the width of the cut is greater than the thickness of the blade, and this is necessary so that the blade does not get stuck in the cut).
Classic longitudinal and transverse hacksaws.
Today, traditional European-style saws have a different number and shape of teeth, allowing them to cut faster and with less effort. For most tasks, it is convenient to have a 350 mm hacksaw (saw length is measured along the teeth). A hacksaw 550-650 mm long for transverse cutting of long boards or sawing out draft blanks will also not hurt.
Edge saw.
Designed for more precise cuts and joining, this saw usually has finer teeth than conventional hacksaws. Its distinctive feature is a steel or brass butt on the upper edge of the blade, which gives rigidity and increases the accuracy of sawing.
How to cut with a saw correctly!
When hand sawing, stand in front of the workpiece and make sure that your elbow, wrist, and end of the saw blade are in a straight line at all times. Hand movements should be straight, starting from the shoulder, reminiscent of piston movements in steam engine. Hold the saw at a right angle to the workpiece, looking at the reflection on the side of the blade.
The workpiece should not look broken along the cut line. Make long strokes so that all teeth engage in sawing and wear evenly. As you near the end of the cut, support the part you are cutting so that it does not break off, leaving chips at the corner of your workpiece.
Hold the instrument correctly. Take a classic European hacksaw by inserting three fingers into the notch of the handle, and forefinger point forward along the handle (left photo). The long handle of a Japanese saw must be completely covered with the palms of both hands (right photo).
Teeth must be sharp
Hang the saw on a nail or wear a saw to protect the teeth when stored.
Saws with teeth, hardened induction method, remain sharp three times longer than those without hardening.
If the blade gets stuck in the wood or the cut always deviates in the same direction, the cause must be sought in improper sharpening and setting of the teeth. If you do not yet have the skills and experience for independent divorce and sharpening of teeth, seek the help of professionals.
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Has your band sawmill been installed and made all the necessary adjustments? So it's time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. To really get quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and fix it with special clamps.
From correct calculation the amount and type of material you want to get from this log also depends on the quality.
Having gained experience in the future, one glance at the log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt of the log is. The butt, as a rule, is larger in diameter than the top. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.
How to calculate a log
So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.
Firstly.
We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly even trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as slabs. When the log is laid and fixed, it is worth making sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.
Set the size on the ruler of the sawmill according to the diameter, and add to this size highest altitude log bulges. This is that bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.
Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and from this size you start counting the dimensions required material, taking into account the size of the cut, which is from 2 to 5 mm.
Secondly.
As soon as the cutting width reaches required size, and the remainder of the log height has reached right size, it is flipped. That is, if you saw a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the rest of the log should correspond to this value, even be larger, taking into account the removal of the slab.
To do this, after turning the log over, start the calculation from the final size to the full use of the log height, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, is from 2 to 5 mm.
For example - you have a log on the flyover that you cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's flip the log and continue.
The end result we want to achieve is a gun carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Further, in a simple way, considering that 260 mm-150 mm \u003d 110 mm. We get as much as 110 mm thick additional material. And that is exactly what needs to be calculated.
We take this additional size and calculate, in order to obtain a chopping block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50=60, do not forget the cut, and in our case it is 2 mm, 60-2=58 mm, then the gap, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, slab 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.
As you can see, from our calculations, it turns out 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm cleft and 50 mm chopping block. And the final size will be 150 mm.
Possible mistakes
As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmillers make a mistake in the calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to the cut to it, otherwise it will turn out like this 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, a 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we obtain as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 \u003d 202 mm.
If necessary, to obtain edged material, turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations that are described above.
So you sawed your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when calculating, it happens that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take into account this fact. And don't make those mistakes.
In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will take place automatically in your head, it will be enough to look at the log.
We are confident that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.
The band sawmill is a compact unit, the main component of which is band-saw. Sawing logs for band sawmill, as a rule, is used in woodworking or repair and construction industries.
Advantages and disadvantages
Horizontal band sawmills today are one of the most promising woodworking devices for sawing. roundwood. Their advantages are as follows:
- economy in operation;
- minimum energy consumption;
- excellent maneuverability;
- a good yield of material (about 70%);
- the possibility of private cutting of each log.
Among the shortcomings, one can identify such points as the low accuracy of the radial cut, low throughput, as well as the appearance of a “wave” due to increased resinousness and the release of a significant amount of moisture from the freshly sawn coniferous tree. To get rid of resin sticking to the cutting edges of the electric saw and to the moving components of the sawmill, intensive lubrication with special solutions and regular change of cleaners helps.
However, despite all these shortcomings, the use of band sawmills in small and medium-sized businesses in terms of woodworking is very popular. Their acceptability for the price and receiving from a band sawmill on average 20-25% more commercial wood, unlike traditional sawing honey, make such sawmills very competitive and extremely profitable when sawing logs in a private, small business.
Types of sawing logs
How to cut a log correctly to get an optimized lumber yield? You need to choose the right cutting pattern. This action is due to various factors: the type of wood, the volume of logs, the aggregate system and the grade of lumber that will need to be produced. In addition, it should be taken into account how the lumber will be trimmed in the future.
In practice, the following 3 schemes for the classic sawing of a log at a sawmill are known:
- Sawing a log in a circle. This sawing configuration is beneficial for medium to highest quality. First, a cut is made, then the log is turned over to a new edge, then it is sawn again, and turned over again, and so on until it happens in best case 5 coups.
- Elementary sawing of a log (or ordinary sawing through). It is rational to use a similar scheme for low-grade wood. The resulting lumber will be more prone to warping during drying, unlike the first scheme, and will also come out heavier and drier with more residue, since each element will then still need to be sawn on the sides. In this model of sawing, the log is sawn until the central part of it opens. Then it turns 180º and is finished to the end.
- Sawing timber. This sawing combination is generally used when working with medium to large wood. In this case, the log can be of medium or low quality and is sawn in the same way as when sawing in a circle. However, the core part of a log with dimensions of 18x23 cm or 25x25 cm is not sawn. Such a bar is either sold as is, or processed on other units in the technological direction.
When using one or another model for sawing logs, the productivity of the sawmill is increased and time and effort are saved on the production of products of various qualities. (Fig. 1 Sawing logs at the sawmill)
Sawing logs on a band sawmill can be productive and easy, depending on how you approach this process.
By planning in advance efforts and time, it will be possible to cut logs with greater productivity. You can make this process as efficient as possible by following these guidelines:
- When sawing logs, it is recommended to use only sharp saws. An indicator that the saw has become dull will be its frequent pulling up during the cut, because the dull blade heats up and expands, i.e. loses tension. Thus, the saw starts to walk, get stuck in the log, and create problems in pulling it back. A replacement saw in time will help to avoid such situations.
- Avoid breaks. Daily inspection and lubrication of the sawmill takes not so much time compared to the costs that will go into replacing the bearings on the flywheels, as well as the cost of spare parts itself.
- Prepare logs for cutting in advance. Before you start sawing trees, they need to be washed from dirt, using a metal detector, remove possible nails driven into them that could remain in the logs after the signs were removed from them. Before sawing logs, the procedure for trimming knots and protruding nodes on it with a chainsaw will help save time, and you will also need to cut the end of the sawn tree in advance so that it fits as closely as possible to the diameter of the log.
- During the cutting of the timber, it is necessary to immediately produce its edging. It is necessary to cut off the edges immediately after sawing the log into beams directly on the band sawmill: first on one side, and then on the other, and so on until last board until the entire process of sawing and processing the sawn log is completed.
Sawing a log on a band sawmill is not so fast, because it is primarily electromechanical equipment, and it tends to overheat, and working it on the edge will not lead to anything good. It is necessary to give a break to the equipment and not to rush - let everything go as it should. As a result, unnecessary experiences will be reduced, and productivity will only increase from this.
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The saw must be driven, otherwise it will start to “walk”. This must be taken literally. Wood is a living material and its behavior is unpredictable. Hard growth rings, knots, cracks, high humidity and high resin content can seriously complicate sawing.
For this reason no universal tool, which could take into account all the vagaries of the tree, and there are many different special saws. The shape and order of alternation of their teeth are determined not by the material from which the saw blade is made, but by its purpose. Some tool can only cut in a straight line, the other, on the contrary, goes better in a circle.
When sawing, only the saw moves, the workpiece must be securely fastened. Therefore, you will need a stable support. For example, a workbench or goats. The workpiece is fixed with a clamp or held by hand, and especially large - additionally with a knee.
Sawing begins and ends with repeated light pulling of the saw in the opposite direction, that is, a “trace” is laid. At the end of sawing, you need to hold the residue firmly so that it does not break off along with a piece of the main wood.
Sawing is one of the most common processes in the processing of wood. A clean, even cut is not a problem if you pick it up right tool and be able to use it.
In the photo (from top to bottom): large and small hacksaws; saw with a "back"; saw with a narrow blade. On the left side is a saw for fine sawing.
For each workpiece - its own saw
The hacksaw cuts quickly, but the wide tooth pitch leaves a rough mark in soft material. On the other hand, it would be difficult to cut a thick cant with a fine saw. In a word, the material and the tool must fit together. Only then can you count on quality work and obtaining a smooth, defect-free part. We offer brief instructions: which tree should be processed with which saw.
How to protect your saw from damage
Any saw (especially its cutting edge) should not come into contact with other tools during storage. From such a neighborhood, it can quickly fail.
If the saw does not have a sheath, then a simple method will help protect its teeth from damage. A cut of the required length is made in a piece of hose, after which the hose is mounted on the saw blade. A rigid hose lined with a fabric is best suited for this purpose. It adheres tightly to the saw blade even after repeated use.
If longitudinal sawing is carried out in large volumes, then it is better to purchase a circular saw. To do it with a hand saw - you get dirty. This is the first, and the second: the information that can be gleaned from the texts in the frame is incomprehensible to a beginner, and useless to a professional.
Basic Hand Saws
Any home workshop should have at least three to four different types of saws.
- Hacksaw with a wide blade for rough sawing of large parts and workpieces. The longer the canvas, the goes faster Job. However, for the same reason, the mobility of the blade itself increases, due to which the saw, as they say, leads to the side. Therefore, it is important to carefully monitor the cutting line, not allowing it to deviate from the markup. New recent years- Teflon coating of the hacksaw blade, which greatly facilitates sawing fresh wood, and also protects the saw from rust.
- A saw with a “back” differs from a conventional hacksaw not only in that it has a rigid nozzle that “dampens” blade vibrations, but also in smaller, closely spaced teeth. Such a saw allows you to make a clean and thin cut.
- A fine cut saw ensures a clean and precise cut.
- A narrow blade saw is designed for sawing rounded parts and big holes. The basic rule of care for any saw: its blade should always be dry and clean. Saw teeth - even hardened ones - should be sharpened regularly.
How to saw correctly
It is always necessary to cut from the cutting side, close to the marking line. This applies to both rough cuts with a hacksaw and fine cuts with a fine-toothed saw. Further, it is very important that the workpiece to be processed has a stable support in the form of a workbench or a regular desktop. For large-sized workpieces, it is better to use goats. In the process of sawing, the part must be held firmly by hand all the time (a large-sized workpiece - also with a knee) - in other words, only the saw should move.
Sawing begins with the first short strokes at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. Only after the saw blade has entered the wood and fixed in it, you can start working with a saw for the entire length of the blade.
At the edge of the cut, saw only in short, sharp strokes. This will avoid breakages from the underside of the workpiece.
Cutting along the wood fibers is always a “critical” situation, especially if the wood has a large swirl. The saw naturally wants to follow the path of least resistance, and if not restrained, it will begin to "walk". That is, in such cases, the saw has to be pressed harder than usual, which, in turn, requires the most stable position of the workpiece.
With large cross cuts, a conventional hacksaw can jam. In such cases, it is better to use a rip saw with very set teeth. Just keep in mind that the cutting strip will be much thicker than the saw blade.
Sawing fresh or damp wood will become easier if the saw blade is smeared with wax or soap.
The blanks are firmly pressed against the lintel, its right edge guides the saw.
Tsulaga
When processing small workpieces, the collage shown in the figures below can be of great help.
To make it, you will need a piece of carpentry board about 20 x 30 cm in size and 2 mm thick, as well as two planed strips, which must be fixed to the board as shown in the figure. To prevent warping and breaking of the slab, the planks must be placed across the direction of its core layer.
How to work with a circular
The lower bar of the tulage rests against the edge of the tabletop and thus sets the correct direction for cutting, the shortened upper bar ensures good centering of the saw.
If you have to cut long boards or slats, then the second collage will not interfere, which will serve as a stop for the other end of the workpiece.
A piece of carpenter's board and two pieces of plank are enough to make a practical tsulagi.
Before starting sawing, the saw set at an angle must be pulled several times towards you.
Teeth and their shape
The capabilities of the saw depend on its shape and size of the teeth. A large number of teeth on a given blade length means thin sawing but slow progress. A small number of teeth gives a rough cut.
Wood is made up of fibers that separate when sawn. In this case, sawdust appears, which must be removed. The smaller the teeth, the faster the cut and the cutting edge of the saw are clogged with small sawdust - saw flour. The teeth can no longer grip the wood to its full height. Sawing is becoming more and more tedious and, most importantly, unproductive. But large teeth almost never clog due to the greater distance of their tips from each other.
Almost any saw has teeth that are divorced, that is, their tips alternately deviate either to the left or to the right. The greater the angle of inclination, the wider the cut band, and therefore it is less clogged with sawdust, and the saw jams less.
Over time, saw teeth become dull and need to be sharpened. In this case, the broken wiring must be restored. Not even for a specialist simple work. Therefore, we recommend purchasing saws with hardened teeth. They do not dull as quickly, and they are easier to sharpen than the teeth of a conventional saw.
All you need to do is put the saw blade on the table and run the whetstone twice along cutting edge from the end to the handle, then turn the canvas over. The saw is sharpened, you can get to work.
Steep teeth for ripping
This is how the teeth are located on almost all hand saws, including hacksaws and saws with a "back".
The cutting edge of the teeth is located vertically. Suitable for longitudinal cuts.
When ripping, the workpiece should protrude sufficiently beyond the workbench - this makes it easier to cut.
The marking below the gap indicates where the saw is deflected.
Bevels
Connection of two wooden parts at a right angle, for example at picture frames, is often carried out using a glue line with an angle of 45 degrees to the edge. A cut at this angle must be made very accurately. Even a slight deviation will not allow the parts to connect tightly.
A miter box will help to accurately and accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 degrees. This device, made of hardwood, is a block with two parallel sides, in which oblique slots provide the saw with the desired position. Moreover, in three positions, that is, the saw can divide the bar obliquely to the left or right, or at a right angle.
The plank should lie tightly in the miter box: any displacement of it can lead to a change in the cutting angle. It is best to fix the part with a clamp. Well, if the miter box itself is fixed on a workbench, or at least has a stable position with an emphasis. Sawing on a miter box with a saw with a "back" or a saw for fine sawing. With frequent use of the miter box, its sides can be damaged, which will inevitably lead to a distortion of the cutting angle. Such a miter box will have to be replaced.
There are also expensive miter boxes made of metal. They don't wear out and last a long time.
The miter box will help to accurately cut the bar at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees.
Husqvarna's experts always listen to the opinions of professionals who use tools in the forestry every day when developing. Our goal. transfer their experience to the production of new models and thus make the tool even more perfect from the consumer’s point of view
How to start a chainsaw
This is an important saw maintenance procedure that is easy to perform if you follow the recommendations and use the equipment provided by Husqvarna. By sharpening your chain relatively often, you will make this procedure as easy as possible. Lock the saw in place. Block the chain by engaging the chain brake. Start by sharpening the cutting teeth. Position the template on the chain with the arrows in the direction of the driven bar sprocket. Position the file under right angle to rollers Sharpen every second tooth with a strong pushing motion. Then turn the saw and sharpen the rest of the cutting teeth.
Sharpening of cutting depth gauges.
After every third sharpening of the cutting teeth, it is necessary to grind down the depth gauges of the depth of cut located between the teeth. Hold the template firmly with one hand. Select hard (hard) or soft (soft), depending on the type of saw you are using the saw to cut. Holding a flat file with your other hand, grind down the depth gauges until the file touches the template.
Chain and bar replacement.
After a certain number of sharpenings, when the longest part of the cutting tooth is less than 4 mm, the chain should be replaced. Remove the bar and install a new chain. Adjust chain tension. A loose chain may come off, and a tight chain will wear the bar. If the chain is properly tensioned, it can be lifted about one centimeter from the middle of the bar and easily pulled by hand.
Cleaning.
From time to time it is necessary to clean some parts of the saw. Open the clutch cover and clean the chain brake band. It is also necessary to clean the tire from time to time. Open the cylinder cover and clean the air filter. If necessary, clean the cooling fins and ventilation holes. To ensure proper engine cooling, periodically check the flywheel vanes for dirt.
Examination.
To ensure proper functioning of other parts, they should be checked regularly. This applies in particular to the chain brake, throttle lever and chain catcher. It is necessary to check the integrity and degree of wear of the chain drive sprocket. It is necessary to check the integrity and degree of wear of the chain drive sprocket, as well as the tightening of screws, bolts and nuts. More detailed information maintenance can be found in the user manual for the saw.
