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Pruning and shaping fruit trees. Pruning fruit trees in spring How to properly shape trees

An important measure aimed at obtaining high and stable yields is crown formation and tree pruning. In order to properly form a crown, it is necessary to know the breed and varietal characteristics of fruit trees.

Fruit trees consist of two parts - aboveground and root systems. The aerial part consists of a trunk, trunk and branches (Fig. 5). The part of the trunk from the ground to the first branch is called the trunk, above, before the growth of the current year - the central conductor, or leader. Branches of the first order depart from the central conductor, on which branches of the second order are located, on them - the third. Branches of the first and second orders, and sometimes the third, are called skeletal. They have thinner and shorter semi-skeletal branches with numerous shoots and overgrown branches, on which the crop is formed. The totality of all branches of the tree, together with the central conductor, is called the crown.

shoots call the increments of the current year with leaves. According to the type of buds located on them, growth and generative shoots are distinguished. Vegetative buds are located on the growth buds, flower buds are on the generative buds. Among the overgrown branches, depending on the strength of growth and morphological features, the following increments are distinguished (Fig. 6).

fruit twig- annual growth 15-25 cm long, usually thinner than growth growth, can be bent downwards.

Spear- one-year growth 5-15 cm long, slightly thinner towards the top, departing from the branch usually at a right angle.

Kolchatka- a short growth up to 3 cm long with underdeveloped lateral buds and a well-formed apical bud. A strong annulus with a large number of leaves usually forms a flower bud, a weak one - a growth bud. Complex ringlet - a perennial branch, consisting of several ringed growths without traces of fruiting.

fruit bag- thickening of the end part of the fruit branch that formed the fruit. The larger the fruit, the larger the fruit bag. If the fruit fell unripe, the bag is small.

fruit- perennial formation, consisting of kolchatka, fruit bags and short increments.

On growth shoots and fruit formations in the axils of the leaves, buds are formed. Buds are rudimentary shoots covered with scales that are at rest. They are divided into growth, flowering and mixed. A shoot grows from a growth bud, a flower forms from a flower bud, and a flower and a shoot can be from a mixed bud. In apple and pear buds are mixed, in stone fruits (cherries, plums, sweet cherries) they are simple flower buds, which are larger and rounder than vegetative ones.

The following year, after pruning, not all buds germinate. Their viability in an apple tree can last for decades. The awakening of the kidneys in different varieties is not the same. Varieties in which more than half of all buds germinate next year belong to the group of varieties with high awakening, in which less than a third of the buds awaken - to the group with weak awakening, and with germination from a third to half - with medium awakening. In some varieties, many shoots of a growth type are formed from awakened buds. These are varieties with high shoot-forming ability. Others have very few shoots: these are varieties with a weak shoot-forming ability.

The structure of the crown of trees during natural formation, as well as the type of fruiting, depends on the degree of awakening of the buds and the shoot-forming ability. The good shoot-forming ability of the plant, combined with the high excitability of the buds, leads to the formation of a large number of growth shoots, and hence to thickening of the crown. In varieties with high bud arousal and low shoot-forming ability, a sparse crown is formed, as, for example, in almost all pear varieties.

According to the characteristics of growth and fruiting, all varieties of apple trees can be divided into three groups. The first includes varieties of the Cinnamon striped type with weak bud awakening and weak shoot-forming ability. This leads to the exposure of branches at a young age and the creation of a fork system, which entails the danger of branch breaks. Fruiting in these varieties prevails on the tops of long increments and fruit twigs.

The second group is formed by varieties of the Antonovka vulgaris type with high bud arousal and low shoot formation ability. These varieties form an unthickened crown, fruiting predominates on the annelids.

The third group includes varieties with medium and high shoot-forming ability. They tend to thicken the crown and require thinning. These are varieties such as Pepin saffron, Shtreifling.

On a cross section of a branch or trunk of a fruit tree, two layers are distinguished. The outer layer is the bark, which consists of cork and bast. Nutrients are stored in the bast tissue of the tree. Through it, plastic substances from the leaves are sent to the root system. Under the bark is wood - also a storage and conductive tissue. Through the wood, moisture and mineral nutrients absorbed by the root system enter the crown of the trees.

Between the wood and the bark lies a thin layer of the so-called educational tissue - the cambium. Cambium cells are able to divide and lay bark tissue outward, and wood inward. In spring, looser wood is deposited, and in autumn, denser wood. Therefore, annual rings are distinguished on the cross section of a branch or trunk, by which the age of a tree can be calculated.

Trimming techniques

Depending on the purpose, there are shaping, regulating fruiting and rejuvenating pruning. Forming is most often used in a young garden. It is used when pruning thickened crowns and forming new branches from tops, as well as after regrafting trees. The formation of the crown serves to create its strong skeleton, uniform placement of skeletal and overgrowing branches in it, and favorable lighting conditions not only on the surface, but also inside the crown.

Pruning, which regulates fruiting, is carried out on mature fruit-bearing trees in order to create conditions for the renewal of fruit wood, maintaining good growth - to ensure productivity.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out on old trees that have a reduced ability to grow in order to resume growth and balance it with fruiting. In practice, when pruning, both regulating and rejuvenating pruning are often used.

There are two types of pruning: shortening branches (pruning) and thinning (cutting) (Fig. 7). When shortening, a part of an annual growth or a perennial branch is cut off. At the same time, more buds are removed from the branches than when thinning, which means that the balance between the influx of moisture and nutrients and the number of buds is more disturbed. Therefore, with a strong shortening on a cut branch, dormant buds awaken, and lateral branching grows stronger. The greater the shortening, the more intense the growth, the lower the ankle of the branches, the fruit branches are strengthened and become more durable.

thinning lies in the fact that the annual or perennial branch is cut out completely. It has little effect on the strengthening of branching and the growth of shoots. But when thinning, the lighting inside the crown improves, which contributes to the formation of flower buds there and the durability of the overgrown branches. When cutting a branch, vascular connections are switched, the flow of nutrients and moisture is distributed more evenly between all branches of the crown located above the cut point. Since this switching does not occur instantly, strong top-type shoots appear at the cut point.

Annual twigs, when shortened, are cut into a bud: the upper edge of the cut should be slightly above the top of the bud, the lower one - 1-2 mm above the base of the bud. If the cut is made too low, the bud may dry out or give a weak shoot. When cut high above the bud, the upper growing shoot deviates strongly from the direction of branch growth (Fig. 8). The left spike prevents the wound from overgrowing. Pruning of annual shoots is carried out with a garden knife or pruner. When pruning in winter, it is better to leave a spine on them so that the kidney is not damaged during severe frosts.

Pruning is carried out before bud break. Unnecessary branches are cut into a ring, i.e. the cut is made along the border of the thickening of the base of the branch. You can not make a cut very close to the trunk, because it is injured, a large wound slowly heals. A large stump also cannot be left, as it dries up and falls out, a wound forms in this place, which does not heal well.

Along with pruning, pinching of shoots during the growing season can be used to form a crown. To weaken the growth of a strongly growing shoot, you need to pinch its top. To ensure the germination of the kidney to form a branch that fills the empty spaces in the crown, a semilunar incision is made above it.

Wounds with a diameter of more than 1 cm should be covered with garden pitch or ocher on natural drying oil. For putty, you can use a mixture of equal parts of clay and mullein with the addition (for connectedness) of wool.

Overgrowing and semi-skeletal branches are cut with secateurs, thick ones with a garden saw. The cut is carried out on a ring (along the border of the thickening of the base of the bough) so that the cut plane passes along the very top of the annular influx around the side branch. Branches extending at an acute angle do not have an annular influx, there is only an influx at its base from the side adjacent to the trunk or parent branch. In this case, one line is mentally drawn from the upper part of the annular influx parallel to the axis of the trunk, the other is perpendicular to the axis of the branch being cut, and a cut is made between these lines in order to divide the angle between them approximately in half.

Regulation of the strength of the growth of branches

When forming the crown of trees, it often becomes necessary to weaken one or another branch. This is achieved by shortening. Although it will grow stronger than an uncut one, it will not reach the size of an uncut adjacent branch. Repeated shortening "upsets" the branch, and it is suppressed by others located above.

You can also weaken the branch by using kerbovka. Below it, a semi-lunar incision is made and a strip of bark 2-4 mm wide with a part of the wood is removed. Kerbovka is done at the beginning of the growing season. To enhance the growth of a branch, kerbovka is done above it (Fig. 9). When forming the crown, pinching of annual shoots (pinching) is also used. Tweezing is used to weaken the growth force of competing shoots, to weaken one or another branch, and also to turn branches into semi-skeletal or overgrowing. Pinching is carried out in early July.

To regulate the strength of growth, they also use a change in the angle of inclination of the branches. If it is necessary to strengthen the growth of a branch, it is given a vertical position, weakened - horizontal (Fig. 10).

To speed up the onset of fruiting, banding is sometimes used, which is possible only in strongly growing trees that do not yield for a long time. A strip of bark 0.5-1 cm wide is removed around the branch in early spring. Ringing is done on branches, which can later be removed. You can also use for this purpose the overlay of the fruit belt. It injures trees less than banding. Usually, a soft tin ring is used, for example, from a tin can with cut edges, which is fixed with wire (Fig. 11). It is even better to apply an elastic fruit belt, for example, made of rubber, which provides constant pressure and does not injure the tree.

Crown formation and pruning of young trees

In young trees, pruning is carried out mainly in order to form a crown. Without pruning, during natural growth, the crown of some varieties becomes very dense, while others form an unnecessarily rare, fragile, with ankle-shaped branches, on which there are few overgrown branches.

The first requirement for the crown is that it must be strong. The strength of the crown is determined not only by the quality of the wood, but also by the magnitude of the angles of branch separation from the trunk and the angles of branch separation between themselves (Fig. 12). The optimal angle of the branch branch from the trunk, which ensures a strong fusion of the branch with the trunk, is 50-60 °. When the angle of departure is less than 40°, the fusion of the branch and the trunk is unstable, which often leads to breakage (tearing off) of the branches. The trunk should dominate the branches extending from it. Every gardener should know a simple rule: the side branch is about twice as thin as the trunk above the branch attachment point. If it is thicker, it suppresses the development of the conductor, if it is thinner, it weakens and stalls itself.

It is necessary that the branches in the crown are placed freely, do not create mutual thickening. Overgrowing wood should be in good light conditions both on the surface and inside the crown. With a lack of light in the central part of the crown, a bare zone is formed, which practically does not produce products, the fruits there are small, of poor quality. The thickness of the productive zone of trees is 0.8-1.5 m, the unproductive zone is 20-30%, sometimes up to half of the crown volume. It can be reduced to a minimum by proper crown formation. Too large crowns are impractical, the yield on them is reduced. The height of the tree should not exceed 3.5-4 m, otherwise the upper branches shade the lower ones and fruiting moves to the upper part of the crown.

The shape of the crown is divided into flat and spherical. In the formation of spherical (rounded) crowns, a whorled-tiered, sparsely-tiered, and less often, a modified-leader system is usually used. The whorled-tiered crown is most easily formed, when the skeletal branches are arranged in tiers and are laid from neighboring buds. The advantage of this method is the simplicity and speed of the formation of the tree skeleton. The disadvantage is that in many varieties the crown is very thick.

When the crown is formed according to a sparse-tiered system, the arrangement of branches in tiers and a single one are combined. In a tier, no more than three branches grown from neighboring buds are allowed. This formation gives a more durable to sparse crown. When forming a crown according to such a system, the lower two branches are laid from two adjacent branches located on different sides. The third is placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from the bottom on the side of the trunk opposite to the angle of divergence between the lower branches. The next two or three branches are laid on the trunk sparsely at a distance of 40-50 cm between them. After the end of the formation, the conductor is cut out above the last branching.

When forming a crown according to a sparse-leader system, 5-6 single branches are laid on the trunk with a distance between them of 30-60 cm.

In fruit nurseries, two-year-old seedlings are usually grown, formed according to a whorled-tiered system, with 4-5 side branches bred from neighboring buds. This system is especially promising for trees grafted on weak-growing rootstocks, since their skeleton is formed quickly, and with small plant sizes, its shortcomings have little effect. When forming a crown according to this system, the second tier of 2-3 branches is formed directly in the garden at a distance of 50-60 cm from the last branch of the first tier, then the central conductor is cut out.

The general rule that the gardener should know is that each branch in the crown occupies its own spatial volume and does not interfere with others. Lateral skeletal branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk. The angle of divergence between adjacent branches is not less than 70°.

When planting a tree in spring, crown formation begins immediately, in autumn - the next year after planting, before bud break. The first pruning is carried out in order to bring the aerial parts into line with the root system, which has suffered as a result of the transplant. At the same time, the strength of the development of lateral shoots and conductor is regulated. Usually, after planting, the shoots are shortened by a third of the length. The upper lateral shoot is usually located at an acute angle and competes in development with the central conductor, so it is cut into a ring. Immediately you need to select the shoots from which the lateral skeletal branches will form, and cut the rest more, subordinating them to promising shoots. When pruning the central conductor, it is necessary to take into account the varietal characteristics of the trees: in varieties with a drooping crown, the top of the conductor after pruning should exceed the upper side shoot by 10-15 cm, the side shoots should not overtake the conductor in growth. In varieties with a pyramidal crown, the conductor should rise 25-30 cm above the end of the upper side shoot.

The lower shoots usually depart from the trunk at a more obtuse angle and are less developed. They are cut weaker than the top ones. In varieties with a drooping crown, pruning is carried out on the inner bud in order to direct the growth of the skeletal branch upwards, in varieties with a pyramidal crown, on the outer bud. To increase the angle of divergence between adjacent branches, when you need to change the direction of growth, they are cut into lateral buds located on opposite sides.

In the first year after planting, the fruit tree usually gives a weak increase. Therefore, next spring, pruning is not carried out. Starting from the third year after planting, the main skeletal branches are laid according to the accepted crown formation system. Intermediate branches located between the main skeletal branches, with the help of pruning, are turned into overgrown branches, shortening the shoot and leaving 4-5 buds on it. Stronger growth shoots are formed from the upper buds of a shortened shoot, weak shoots are formed from the lower ones. The following year, a branch is cut off above the lower of the strongest growth shoots, and the shoot itself is shortened by 3-4 buds. In the spring of next year, pruning is repeated, forming a fruit branch (Fig. 13).

Pruning regulates the growth of individual branches. Branches whose growth needs to be weakened are pruned more. Often, shortening the one-year growth does not weaken the branch. In cases where it is necessary to change the direction of growth, pruning is applied to the side branch, i.e. cut off the branch above the side branch.

In addition to regulating the direction and strength of the growth of branches, pruning should be carried out annually in order to awaken the buds on the shoots, which is necessary for further selection of skeletal branches and the formation of fruit branches. Without pruning, the buds can remain dormant, the branches are bare. In addition, the selection of shoots that form skeletal branches is difficult.

In varieties with good awakening of the buds, less pruning of the shoots is done, removing the tops with unripened wood and underdeveloped buds. With an average awakening of the kidneys, about a quarter of the growth is cut off. You can determine the degree of awakening of the kidneys by a two-year-old branch that has not been pruned. The more kidneys on it remain dormant, the less their awakening. The length of the removed part when shortening the one-year-old shoot should be equal to the length of the part of the two-year-old shoot on which the buds did not awaken. However, in varieties with very low bud awakening, such pruning does not lead to the formation of branches, it becomes necessary to prune over the lateral branches of two-year-old wood.

Branches of the second order are laid on the lateral skeletal branches: the first - at a distance of 40-60 cm from the base of the branch, the next - after 35-40 cm alternately from two sides, fan-shaped. For laying such branches, only side shoots are selected (Fig. 14). Shoots directed inward and outward are unsuitable for crown formation.

To form the crown, skeletal branches a are selected, they are balanced in the strength of development and subordinated to the central conductor, a competitor is cut out k, as well as branches growing inward at and directed not to their sector b, thickening d; branches d can not be cut, but by pairwise weaving and simple bending, transferred to a horizontal position and left as overgrown. Outward shoots can be used to form ramifications in varieties with a pyramidal crown.

The crown of a pear is formed in much the same way as an apple tree. But the pear forms a pyramidal crown, so you can allow a greater excess of the conductor over the side shoots.

In tree-like varieties of cherries, 8-10 branches are formed, in bushy varieties - 10-15. On skeletal branches, shoots are cut out only if they are directed inside the crown.

Correction of poorly formed tree crowns

At a young age, an incorrectly formed crown of trees is not difficult to correct. More often you have to deal with trees, the crown of which was practically not formed. In such trees, it is usually very dense, the branches are not subordinate to the trunk and among themselves, there may be sharp angles of divergence and forks that threaten to break branches and even break the tree.

It is necessary to outline the main skeletal branches on the trunk. Branches unsuitable for skeletal formation must be removed. Weaker shoots and branches that thicken the crown are immediately cut into a ring. Strong branches are weakened by cutting off the first lower branch, and after 2-3 years they are completely cut out. The remaining branches are formed by cutting out unnecessary thickened branches of the second and third orders. If the central conductor died ahead of time, it is replaced by the underlying branch, giving it a vertical position with a garter to the stake. To give the side branch a vertical position, pruning or transferring it to a branch growing in the desired direction can also be used.

Pruning fruit trees

After the formation of the crown of trees, the main task of pruning is thinning to eliminate thickening, creating sufficient illumination inside it. First of all, damaged and hanging branches, as well as branches directed inside the crown, are removed. Cut off crossing, growing in parallel, rubbing branches. First of all, it is necessary to cut off the stronger ones, and then, if necessary, the smaller ones (Fig. 15).

A common mistake gardeners make is not thinning enough. This is due to the fact that pruning is carried out before the leaves bloom and it is difficult to correctly assess the thickening of the crown. When pruning, you need to imagine what the branch and the whole tree will be like when it bears fruit. During the period of full fruiting, there comes a time when the growth at the ends of the skeletal branches almost completely stops. At this time, anti-aging pruning is carried out. The branches are shortened at the border of the last strong growth. This ensures the restoration of the growth of the branch and, in addition, limits the height of the trees to 3-3.5 m. Cut out all hanging and thickening branches. Extra tops are cut out, and semi-skeletal and skeletal branches are formed from the most successfully located ones (Fig. 16).

In old trees, rejuvenating pruning is also carried out when the skeletal branches begin to dry out. Such pruning makes it possible to extend the productive period of the tree and improve the quality of the fruit.

Pruning cherries and plums different from pruning an apple tree. The opinion that wounds made when pruning cherries cause gum disease and heal poorly is wrong. In healthy trees, wounds heal well. Cherry is demanding for pruning, but it has biological features that should be considered when carrying out this technique.

According to the nature of fruiting, cherry varieties differ in tree-like ones - Griot Ostgeymsky, Griot Ligelya and bushy ones - Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya. In shrubs, flower buds are formed on elongated annual growths, where they are located in the axils of the leaves along almost the entire length of the branch. There are few flower buds on the bouquet branches, they are formed only in young growing trees. On strong shoots, in addition to leafy ones, there are also flower buds. On shoots shorter than 20-25 cm, usually all buds, with the exception of the apical one, are flowered. In tree-like varieties, the main number of flower buds is formed on bouquet branches of 4-5 years of age. On strong growths, all buds are leafy, from which bouquet branches develop the next year. Pruning should be carried out based on these features of cherry varieties.

At a young age, skeletal branches are formed, cutting out the extra ones in order to protect the crown from thickening. In bushy varieties, one-year growth should not be shortened, since the lateral buds on it are most often flowering. If you need to weaken the branch, apply pruning to the side branch. In tree-like cherries, strong annual growths are shortened to form branches, since without pruning, only bouquet branches are formed on such shoots.

There comes a time when the growth at the ends of the skeletal branches of bushy cherries decreases - over the summer to 15-20 cm. At this time, it is necessary to carry out a slight rejuvenation. It consists in shortening the branches of the first and second orders, on which branching did not occur in the last year or two, since all the buds were flowering. The growth of the last year and the 2-3-year-old bare part are removed to the first, counting from the top, branching. At the same time thin out the crown. Tops formed after pruning can be used to form skeletal branches.

Without pruning, forks often form near the plum, large branches are exposed and broken off, the crown thickens. In the first years after planting, the plum crown is formed in order to create a skeleton. Pruning should be minimal, it consists in cutting thickening branches. Shortening is used only for the subordination of branches. Annual growths longer than 60 cm are also cut off, since without shortening a good branching is not formed. In the future, the main purpose of pruning is to weaken growth. If the annual growth is at least 40 cm, they are limited to light thinning to prevent thickening of the crown. With further attenuation of growth, anti-aging pruning is used.

It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the stem of the plum. In case of serious damage, the tree must be replaced.

Formation of flat crowns

The formation of flat crowns (palmette gardening) has become more and more widespread in recent years. With palmette gardening, the branches of the tree are located in the same plane, all parts of the crown are well lit. This makes it possible to obtain good yields of high-quality fruits, in addition, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden is saved, in which more trees can be planted.

Creating a palmette requires a highly skilled gardener and high labor costs. For the amateur gardener It is better to use a semi-flat vertical crown, which is easy to form and gives good results, not inferior to palmette. The semi-flat crown has a height of 2.5-3 m, a width of no more than 3 m at the base and 2-2.5 m at the top. The crown consists of a conductor and 4-6 skeletal branches of the first order. To form the lower tier, two branches close in development strength are selected, located opposite one another along the row at a distance of no more than 20-30 cm. The branches selected for the lower tier are aligned with the height of shortening. The central conductor should rise by 15-25 cm. All branches with an acute angle of departure and a competitor conductor are cut into a ring. Branches not used to build the crown are bent to a horizontal position. Strong branches with a normal angle of departure are weakened by pruning.

Between the lower tier and the third branch, in order to avoid thickening, there should be a distance of 60 cm. The remaining branches are laid in 40-50 cm alternately on each side of the row. If a crown is formed from 6 skeletal branches, then the 3rd and 4th are laid close to one another, in a tier, like the top two.

In a semi-flat crown, all branches are located along the row. The angle between the branch and the row line should not exceed 25-30°. After the crown is formed, the central conductor is cut out above the last branch. Branches on the side branches, directed towards the aisle, have singly or in groups. They can reach a length of 1.5-2 m in the lower part of the crown and up to 1 m in the upper part, so that the width of the crown does not exceed 3 m in the lower part, and 2-2.5 m in the upper part.

It is advisable to follow a certain sequence in pruning, depending on the species and the condition of the plantations. By pruning an apple tree, as it is more resistant to adverse environmental conditions, you can start and finish this work.
Trees planted in the previous autumn should be pruned before sap flow begins. Pruning of stone fruits is also carried out before bud break begins. It is not recommended to rush to pruning trees severely damaged by frost.
Dry land can be cut only after the damaged parts of the branches are clearly indicated.
Summer pruning primarily includes tweezing (pinching) removing the tops of growing shoots. Pinching is done with nails, and when most of the shoot is removed with pruners.
Tweezing has a strong effect on the tree. It takes a lot of work time to do it. However, this pruning method allows more economical use of the nutrients entering the plant. This is explained by the fact that during tweezing, the required length of the shoot is achieved by stopping its growth, while when shortening the annual shoot next spring, a significant part of it is removed, for the formation of which nutrients have already been spent.
The reaction of the fruit tree to tweezing depends on the period of its application. During the period of intensive growth (June), pinching of strongly growing shoots above the 5-6th leaf retards their growth. This contributes to the formation of pinched shoots of summer premature shoots from axillary buds, increased growth of weak shoots located next to the pinched ones, and the transformation of leaf buds into fruit buds. It should be noted that tweezing often delays the growing season, and this may adversely affect the overwintering of trees.
Pinching, carried out during the period of attenuation of shoot growth, improves the development of axillary buds and contributes to the ripening of shoots.
Pruning is related to the age of the tree. In different periods, the nature of the growth and fruiting of the tree changes, the tasks and means of pruning change.
Young trees are characterized by intensive growth and an increase in crown volume. From the moment of entering the fruiting season, growth processes slow down and the rates of processes that ensure fruiting increase. In an aging tree, the processes of drying out, resumption of growth (formation of tops, shoots) and attenuation of fruiting predominate.
The construction of the crown during the life cycle of a fruit tree is subject to the regular alternation of two processes: self-thickening and self-thinning. Professor P. G. Shitt established the cyclicity in the change of the skeletal and overgrowing parts of the tree crown. In young trees, an increase in crown volume is accompanied by its thickening. Then, due to the changed conditions of illumination and nutrition in the crown, the oldest fruit formations begin to die off, and the crown thins out from the center to the periphery. Then there comes a state of trees when the branches dry out from the ends and is accompanied by a secondary thickening of the crown due to the formation of top shoots.
Usually, after the first large harvests, the crown changes its shape and becomes more drooping, sprawling. The slow supply of nutrients to the ends of the bent branches leads to the formation of strong top shoots at the places of their bend. Further, the process of dying off of the ends of the bent branches progresses.
The drying of the tops of the branches disturbs the balance between the volumes of the root system and the crown, which leads to the formation of new, stronger tops inside the crown. Thus, the second thickening of the crowns occurs due to the top shoots. The thickening and thinning of the branches formed from the top shoots proceeds in the same sequence as the other branches of the crown, but it takes more time.
The branches of an old tree can be completely replaced by branches formed from top shoots.
When pruning, it is important to regulate to speed up or slow down the natural processes of crown formation.

Everyone has heard about the need to form a crown on an apple tree. Why are these manipulations performed and what is the optimal time for pruning?

Timely pruning of branches of young apple trees has a wide range of goals:

1. The first pruning, which is done after planting the seedling, allows you to restore the balance between the root system of the fruit tree, reduced during digging out of the ground, and the large above-ground part. If no measures are taken, the cut roots will not be able to adequately provide the trunk and branches with nutrition, they will become weak.
2. The first pruning of a one-year-old apple tree does not allow the structure of the fruit tree to develop incorrectly.
3. The formation of the crown started in time will contribute to the high yield of the apple tree in the future and the uniform distribution of the weight of the fruit over the structure of the tree. Branches will not be overloaded and break.
4. Timely pruning of branches and shoots stimulates an increase in the fruiting periods of an adult apple tree, and also increases the winter hardiness of the tree.
5. Properly organized crown formation provides good illumination of all branches and fruits. This will positively affect the quality of the crop and its presentation.
6. Regular pruning of branches and shoots helps maintain a harmonious relationship between the root system, crown and fruiting process of the apple tree.

Thus, the formation of the crown is not only of aesthetic importance, these manipulations directly affect the health of the fruit tree and its yield.

What is the best time of year to prune?

The first pruning is done in the spring, regardless of what time of the year the apple tree was planted. The optimal time is the beginning of March, during this period the buds of the fruit tree have not yet awakened, and it will painlessly and without harm endure the violation of the integrity of the branches.

The cuts will have time to overgrow before the foliage blooms, and the apple tree will have time and energy to grow new shoots.

If necessary, pruning can be carried out in the fall, after the foliage has fallen from the fruit tree, and always before the first frost. If the time is too long, then the lower temperature will not allow the cuts to overgrow, and the branches will freeze.

Summer pruning is allowed only if it is necessary to shorten too long shoots, but it is still undesirable to carry out these manipulations, since during this period all the forces of the apple tree are directed to the active growth of new branches.

Obviously, winter pruning is strictly prohibited - in sub-zero temperatures, all trees sleep, so the apple tree will not be able to tighten the cut. Such manipulations will lead to the freezing of branches and the penetration of various diseases into the wounds.

So, the best time to prune young apple trees is early spring. Intervention in the structure of the fruit tree during this period will not harm it, but, on the contrary, will contribute to the active growth of the crown.

The scheme of formation of the crown of a young apple tree

The scheme of formation of the crown of fruit trees is based on ensuring a balance between old branches and new shoots that have appeared over the past year.

Removing excess should lead to its correct structure.

There are several ways to form a crown of seedlings, with the help of which the tree is given various forms:

Tiered discharged

5-6 strong branches are selected, located at a wide angle to the leader. On the first tier (50 cm from the soil), 2-3 shoots are left, the second level is placed 50-60 cm higher.

Advantages:

A significant interval between tiers provides good illumination of the crown and fruits, and also creates a strong skeleton of the tree.

Flaws:

It is difficult for inexperienced gardeners to determine the required interval when pruning a young tree.

Cupped

On the first tier, 3 strong branches are left, spreading them 120 degrees apart with the help of spacers or stretch marks. Each of the shoots is cut symmetrically at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk. The leader is completely cut off. As the apple tree grows, the center of its crown and shoots growing inward are removed.

Advantages:

Ideal for low-growing and short-lived apple trees, creates a solid foundation.

Flaws:

Requires constant control over the growth of shoots in the center of the crown, their constant removal can lead to diseases in the apple tree.

vertical palmette

At the first stage of crown formation, branches are selected that will become the basis for the rows. All lateral and inter-row shoots are removed. As the apple tree grows, branches are cut off that do not grow along the row and inside the crown.

Advantages:

The krone is easily formed and convenient for harvesting fruits.

Flaws:

Constant pruning reduces the yield of the apple tree.

Fusiform

At the end of summer, the grown shoots are bent to a horizontal position with the help of stretch marks, and in spring the leader is cut off at a height of 30-50 cm from the top branch - this will stimulate active fouling of the apple tree trunk. Such manipulations are carried out every year for 7 years, while it is important to ensure that the length of each horizontal branch does not exceed 1.5 m, and the height of the tree is not more than 3 m.

Advantages:

The correct rounded crown with horizontal branches ensures high yields.

Flaws:

Requires annual manual labor.

creeping

As they grow, strong branches are bent to the ground with the help of guy wires.

Advantages:

Suitable for regions with frosty winters, trees are easily covered for a cold period with snow or warming materials.

Flaws:

The formation of the crown is a laborious process, in addition, creeping branches make it difficult to till the soil under the apple tree.

bushy

After planting, all branches are removed from the apple tree, except for 5-6 selected skeletal ones. In the second year, according to the “herringbone” principle, all annual shoots are symmetrically cut off from the tree to half the natural length. The leader is also shortened.

Advantages:

The small length of the trunk provides the possibility of caring for the apple tree and manual harvesting.

Flaws:

Not suitable for weakly branching apple varieties.

Whorled longline

The crown is formed by tiers, each of which has 4-5 contiguous branches. Between the two levels of the skeleton, a distance of 1-1.5 m should be distinguished.

Advantages:

A strong crown ensures good yields.

Flaws:

A large number of branches in whorls significantly weakens the growth of the trunk, and their adjacent arrangement makes the skeleton of the fruit tree fragile and frost-resistant.

flat crown

Two opposite strong branches of the seedling are bent to a horizontal position with the help of braces, and the conductor is cut off at a height of 60 cm from them. In subsequent years, shoots growing towards the ground are removed and long growths are shortened.

Advantages:

Provides optimal illumination of the crown and fruits, allows you to compactly arrange plantings on the site.

Flaws:

It requires constant maintenance of the crown height at the level of 2.5 m and cutting off overgrown shoots.

The most popular and simple is the sparse-tiered technique, during which about 4-6 branches of the "skeleton" of the apple tree are left, located 30-40 cm from each other.

The process and scheme of pruning apple trees depends on the age of the seedling. Annual and biennial fruit trees should be treated differently.

annual apple trees

The formation of the crown of young apple trees begins immediately when the seedling is planted.

As a rule, annual trees do not have strong branches, so the goal of the very first spring pruning is to buy time to strengthen the root system and stimulate the active growth of new shoots in the upcoming summer season.

The formation of the seedling crown will consist of the following manipulations:

1. An unbranched apple tree planted in a permanent place is cut off the top at a height of about a meter.
2. If there are branches in the fruit seedling, all shoots up to a height of 50 cm are cut off, and those that are located above this point are carefully examined. If new branches form an acute angle with the trunk, they are also removed - such drastic measures will guarantee that in an adult tree these elements will not break off under the weight of the crop. If you feel sorry for cutting these branches, you should pull them off with spacers, stretch marks, or press down with a pebble so that they form a wide angle with the trunk. When the shoots get used to the new position and become woody enough, these devices can be removed.
3. Strong shoots that form a wide angle with the trunk should also be treated with secateurs or a knife. Their shortening should be carried out according to the “herringbone” principle - the branches of the lower tier should be about 30 cm long (3-5 buds), the middle one should be shorter. The stem is also cut so that its tip is 15-20 cm higher than the shoots.
4. If it seems to you that the stem is not strong enough or is clearly damaged and is unlikely to develop, it should be tied up to it, giving a vertical position, a particularly strong branch, which will subsequently become a leader.

In order to properly begin to form the crown of a young apple tree, you need to cut the shoots after the outer bud - a new shoot will subsequently grow from it. Such measures will create a dense and strong skeleton that can bear the weight of a bountiful harvest and provide all the fruits with the necessary light for their ripening.

Pruning a two year old apple tree

The formation of the crown of a two-year-old apple tree occurs according to the same principle as pruning a branched one-year-old. The tree should be carefully examined and about 5-6 of the strongest shoots should be selected, located at a wide angle to the conductor.

They will become the main skeletal branches for an adult apple tree. The rest of the shoots are removed.

Strong branches are pruned according to the "Christmas tree" principle: the shoots of the lower tier are cut off after 4-5 outer buds, and those located above are made shorter. It is important to monitor the location of the upper buds, from which new shoots will grow during the summer season - they should “look” from the stem, but at the same time their planned trajectory should not intersect with the rest of the branches.

If it seems to you that the branches will intertwine in the future, it is better to choose a higher cutting point - oversights and mistakes when working with a two-year-old apple tree will lead to incorrect crown formation, which will lead to low yields.

Cropping Features

It is important not only to choose the right places for cutting branches, but also to correctly organize the process of crown formation in a young apple tree:

1. Branches and shoots should be cut only from healthy and strong fruit trees. If you planted a seedling in the spring, and it is hard to endure a new place, it is better not to touch the apple tree this year. A weak plant may not tolerate this manipulation and will die due to long-term healing cuts.
2. If you are a little late in time with the formation of the crown, and the buds are already swollen, do not injure the young apple tree. It is better to postpone pruning until mid-autumn, when the leaf fall ends.
3. For the first pruning, it is better to use a well-sharpened knife, the use of secateurs in relation to thin branches can have a detrimental effect on their structure.
4. All cut points must be treated with oil paint or garden pitch. Such measures will help the tree to protect itself from pests and diseases until the moment of complete healing.

You don’t need to get too carried away with pruning apple trees - after the initial formation of the crown, you should wait 3-5 seasons, giving the tree the opportunity to rest and grow new shoots. It is possible to remove branches between these stages only if they are clearly knocked out of the created correct skeleton or have been damaged and threaten to harm the entire fruit tree.

You have a great chance to form young fruit trees from the very beginning in such a way that they bear fruit every year, bear fruit abundantly, do not take up much space and are suitable for harvesting without any tools, even without a ladder. It is absolutely realistic to do this - the practices of natural farming prove it.

The first thing a novice gardener should know is that trees bear fruit when they have nowhere else to put their vital juices. When a tree has the ability to grow up and give out more and more branches, it will grow and give out. Therefore, it is important that the tree grows in breadth and not in height, so that the main branches are more or less horizontal.

The ideal shape of a fruit tree is a bowl. In this case, we have a low tree with branches spread out in all directions and a free middle. Such a tree is better illuminated by the sun, suffers less from harsh winters, and is less likely to break. And most importantly, in the season, its branches are full of fruits.

How to shape trees by bending

The formation of a tree can begin even at the stage with a seedling. Before planting or immediately after planting, we cut off all unnecessary branches. By and large, you can generally cut the seedling so that a straight bare stick about 80 centimeters in height remains.

In the second year begins, in fact, bending. It is best to carry out the procedure in the spring, when the weather is already good, but the buds have not yet opened. At this time, the wood is soft and bends better.

First, we determine what height the stem we need. Shtamb is the same thick powerful trunk, which branches into lateral branches in the future. The recommended stem height is from 40 to 80 centimeters. Therefore, we measure the required height, prepare a rope or polypropylene twine and pegs.

Without fanaticism, gently and carefully bend the tree so that the intended trunk remains upright, and everything above leans horizontally. The more “horizontal”, the better, of course, but in practice a lot depends on the angle at which the branch is located to the trunk or on the thickness of the trunk, so how much it turned out to bend, so good. We do not need the tree to break from our excessive zeal. If the seedling does not want to bend at all, it should be “washed” (bend the trunk several times 10-15 centimeters above and below the point of the intended bend until a slight crunch).

We tie the bent branch to the peg closer to the middle than to the crown. If there are small branches below the fold, let them grow for now, then they will dry out on their own. If there are powerful branches below the fold, they must also be spread apart, bent and tied to pegs. What's next? A tree, by its nature, tends to grow upwards, it will throw all its strength to restore the "vertical". In the spring, a new shoot will rise vertically from the bend. By the end of summer, it will grow enough to tie it to a peg and bend it in the opposite direction from the first branch. And again, there is no need to make any extra efforts - as far as it turned out to bend down, that's enough for now. Later, after three months, when the place of the fold is strengthened, it will be possible to pull it back a little more.

Thus, bending and tilting the vertical shoots in opposite directions, we form 3-4 branches of the lower tier of the tree. All side shoots are also bent, we do not cut anything. After two or three years, we already have a properly formed crown, it's time to get rid of everything superfluous and create branches with fruit buds with our own hands.

How to increase the number of fruit buds on apple and pear

Short underdeveloped branches with fruit buds are called fruit buds. In apple and pear trees (but not in stone fruits), their number can indeed be increased by shortening certain shoots in a timely manner.

So, in the third or fourth year of our formation, when we have already bent the required number of branches in different directions and no longer required, we begin to remove the unnecessary. This is best done in early summer when the new shoots are still young and soft.

We look where new shoots grow from. Everything that grows from the middle, from the fork, we pluck, cut or saw down “into a ring”: we have already got a beautiful crown, we don’t need excessive thickening.
But if new vertical shoots have grown on the side branches that were once bent to the sides, you can start forming fruitlets. Each vertical shoot of this type should be shortened so that short branches with two leaves from the base remain. After 2-4 weeks, these shoots will grow back, and they will again need to be shortened, leaving only one leaf from the second growth wave. Such a “haircut” will have to be done again, and then again, until a thick bud is formed at the top of the shoot instead of young leaves. Yes, the pruning process in this case stretches for the whole summer, but in reality it is not as laborious as it seems. And the result will not keep you waiting - next spring, each pruned shoot will bloom.

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However, positive results can be achieved only when pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly, in a timely manner. The article will focus on the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When to prune fruit trees

For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be conditionally divided into several.

• autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most favorable time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of cut sites is more difficult. In addition, when pruning at low temperatures, it is possible to freeze the shoots in this way, which will lead to their damage and disruption of the fruiting function.
• spring-summer. It starts from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This is the best time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of equally important factors, such as:

• site location;
• wind speed;
• the presence of precipitation;
• temperature below 0°;

Fruit Tree Pruning Tools

During the pruning period, not only seasonal and weather conditions are fundamental, but also the quality of the tools. The requirements for them are quite simple, they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What may be needed for trimming.

• Secateurs. Refers to a variety of garden scissors. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be easy and convenient to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how much force you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades must have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.

• garden saw. The blades should have good sharpening and be shaped narrower towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can create additional damage to the trunk.
• long pruner. It differs from the manual version, the presence of a long handle. This form is great for cutting off processes that are slightly higher than human height, without the use of additional tools in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the height of the cut.

In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.

• Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

• Ladder or stepladder will form the crown of a fruit tree.
• Overalls, supplemented with protective gloves, will relieve unnecessary injuries during work.
• Glasses will be needed at the time of sawing, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees

From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.

• "On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction of branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way with a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruner blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close to 45° as possible so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, it is necessary to avoid an excessively sharp cut, in which case the left kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual process may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

• "On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take away some of the nutrients that can be distributed among the branches that are more promising in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch “on a ring”. Do not leave an excessively long process and trim flush with the bark. Pruning is considered correct along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.

• "On the side branch." This type of pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its yield:

• Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The most successful time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active juice movement, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause a delay in the development of the plant or the absence of a crop as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, during the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any load, which will allow it to withstand even the most difficult crop.

• Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that needs minimal adjustment. In proper condition, the illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, a fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release tree sap.
• anti-aging the view is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the vitality of a fading tree. Even if the "adult" tree gives a good harvest, it still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening adventitious buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

• Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° is ideal. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out in the following sequence:
• Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after that you can cut young seedlings. The reason lies in the different periods of awakening of the kidneys.
• If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, this tree will not suffer after pruning, unlike others. But it is better to cut pear and cherry closer to May.

• Regarding shoots, pruning starts with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as by insects that have intersections with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
• Large fruit branches are cut down only with the option: “on the ring”. The cut point must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - so it will drag on faster and will not harm the entire tree.

summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees is quite possible to carry out in the summer. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, in case they were not detected in early spring. Indeed, during the period of active flowering, it is much easier to identify flaws.

In addition to stripping incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

• Pinching (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut with garden shears or secateurs.

• Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without the intervention of garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the place of the cliff, it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

• The most favorable period for carrying out the procedure for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The main purpose of autumn pruning is sanitation, that is, the removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, wood pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to a healthy part of the fruit tree.
• Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and crown lighting. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be treated with a special protective compound, this will favorably affect the speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a non-specialist in this matter.

• First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".

• Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this it is necessary to cut the shoots directed towards the soil.
• Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off the branches directed towards it and the young shoots.
• The formation of the crown is done by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developed tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

• From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until the beginning of fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches are pruned, thickening the crown array. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful in a few years.
• Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for their pruning is considered late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and extra shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

• Forming the crown of new plantations is quite easy, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But with regard to old fruit trees, then certain steps should be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small in size and appear irregularly.
• The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been going on for several years, and consists of the following activities.
• In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only from the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
• In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the "tops" formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise, they will absorb the nutrients that the living part of the tree needs. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.

• In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is pruned, and then the "wolves" are cleared.
• The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh sections do not rot and pests cannot start in them.

There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing it for the first time.

• When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
• If you want to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
• Do not touch the frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
• When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise you may end up with an oversaturated branch or an overly thinned crown.
• When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjoining branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
• It is important to remember that horizontal branches differ in the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees, to regulate the amount of the crop.

• Sections of large diameter must be treated with a special composition: garden pitch or heteroauxin - this will accelerate the healing of the plant. But the use of oil paint as a coating of sections is not recommended.
• Young trees should be pruned as little as possible - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.

The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time with a decent harvest of fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires the performer not only to comply with the technology, but also to be careful.