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Devices for sharpening drills. Do-it-yourself drill sharpening machine - penny costs, profit - ruble. The correct form of sharpening is the key to efficient work

In principle, it is possible to bring a dull tool into proper condition manually. But how high will the speed and accuracy be with this technology? In addition, if the drill is carbide, this is quite difficult to do. The author proposes to assemble a machine for sharpening drills with his own hands, which will allow them to be used repeatedly.

Equipment industrial production it is quite expensive - from 43,900 rubles.

True, Chinese products (for example, "GQ-D13") can be bought for 6,800 - 7,200.

But it is unlikely that such cheap models will suit home master, given that the case is made of plastic, and the engine power is in the range of 80 - 120 watts. In addition, only certain types of drills can be sharpened on them, so there is no need to talk about the versatility of use. Therefore, such machines do not count. The feasibility of making a “grindstone” for domestic use with your own hands is more than obvious.

This article does not cover manufacturing options. grinding machine on the basis of an angle grinder (“grinder” is not in every home, and it is unlikely that anyone will buy it only for these purposes) or an electric / drill (for which you will also have to look for special devices in stores). The simplest and convenient option- the traditional "grindstone" from improvised materials, which almost any of us has encountered, and more than once.

There is nothing complicated in the design of such a machine. However, there are a number of features in its do-it-yourself assembly, and this is what the author draws attention to. Having dealt with all the nuances, it will not be difficult to make an installation for a “home” use of labor (the entire process of sharpening a drill is discussed here).

What you need for assembly

El/motor

On the machine in everyday life, various drills are sharpened, including large diameter ones. In addition, the primary processing of the cutting edges of the tool and their finishing are separate stages of work. Therefore, you will have to change the circle and put the one that is at hand from the pre-purchased ones. Since the machine is equipment for long-term use, it is necessary to mount it for the future. Based on this:

• engine power: about 1.2 - 1.5 kW is enough;
• food: single-phase. Any garage or small workshop (barn) on the site, with rare exceptions, is connected to the 1f 220/50 line. From this it is necessary to proceed.

grinding wheel

Moreover, there should be several of them, with different grain sizes. To securely fix the abrasive on the motor shaft, bushings are prepared that clamp it on both sides.

Sharpening fixture

You can limit yourself to the simplest "shelf", but then you will not be able to withstand the required angle. Such work requires a lot of practical experience.

The device can also be purchased, although it is quite rare for sale.

The best option is to make it yourself. For example, these are:

Circuit elements

• Magnetic starter (with 3 pairs of contacts) for a 3-phase circuit.
• Start / stop button or 2 different ones - to turn the machine on and off. And necessarily the third - an emergency stop. It is often combined with a pedal, which is much more convenient and safer, since when sharpening hand drills will be busy.
• Wires. With the specified engine power, it is enough for 1 "square".

The simplest switching circuits for three-phase motors are shown in the figures:

It is easy to find an acceptable one on the Internet, depending on which particular motor is used, how its windings are connected (“star” or “triangle”), to which voltage source it will be connected (1 or 3 phases).

Security elements

• Cover over the circle.
• Screen (optional).

There are certain types of work in which the sharpening of drills is done only on machine tools, and not manually.

• When drilling to a greater depth, when a slight undercutting is required.
• If the drills are universal, allowing you to work even with materials of increased density.
• For making "blind" holes with a special tool.

Sharpening drills with a grinder is not recommended for several reasons. Firstly, angle grinders are unlikely to be securely fixed. Secondly, the accuracy will be unsatisfactory. Thirdly, after the end of such sharpening, it is rather difficult to make the correct fine-tuning of the drill. Fourthly, this technique is suitable only for partial restoration of the operability of a tool of relatively small diameter (no more than 5).

If the workbench in the garage is rather “flimsy”, you will have to mount a special table on metal legs. For this, a large corner, pipe or channel is suitable. The tabletop, taking into account the weight of the machine (primarily the engine), must be durable. Thin sheet metal is not an option. The stand for the machine can also be made of wood, but of sufficient thickness. Its fastening also requires attention. It should be as reliable as possible, at all points provided on the engine frame, and only on bolts.

When deciding on the engine switching scheme, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of changing the number of revolutions. Since you will have to work with different drills, you need to know that the harder the material of the tool, the lower the angular speed of rotation of the abrasive wheel should be.

As practice shows, not all inexperienced craftsmen understand when the drill needs to be sharpened. Signs indicating that the tool is dull:

• grinding (sometimes "humming") on initial stage drilling;
• fast heating metal, often accompanied by a characteristic odor.

Untimely sharpening significantly reduces the life of the drill and is the most common cause its breakdown.

issmith.ru

Do-it-yourself drill sharpener drawings

If you are constantly dealing with sharpening hard workpieces, then the surface of the drill will become unusable very quickly. It will become dull, get very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of the "letting go" of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening with the help of special devices.

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

• Features of sharpening drills

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for domestic needs. However, if possible, then after blunting it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but you will spend a lot on buying them, and this will not make up for the savings if you refuse to purchase new tools. That is why many craftsmen assemble machines for sharpening with their own hands.

It is worth noting that blunting applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not affected, except when used at high speeds with a resinous workpiece. Pobedite tips for stone or concrete are also not subject to sharpening.

But many drills for metal are sharpened using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

How to make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener: a tutorial video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked by a special template.

Simple drills for ferrous metal have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

• for carbide bronze, steel or cast iron, it is also from 115 to 120 degrees;
• for soft bronze or brass alloys - from 125 to 135, respectively;
• for red copper 125 degrees;
• for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood - 135 degrees;
• for magnesium and its alloys - 85 degrees;
• for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.

You can prepare several templates at once, depending on the listed values ​​​​and, in accordance with them, sharpen with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types blanks, you just need to change the corners of the top of the workplace.

A simple but very convenient dragging device is the bushings. different size that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool in the sleeve should not dangle, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes depending on the typical parameters of the drills, or take a bar from soft material and make a lot of holes in it. In the grinder, it is very important to put a convenient handrest, thanks to which it will be possible to move the sharpening device at the right angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble a grinding machine with your own hands, you can take an oak bar instead of a corner.

The simplest sharpening machine can be assembled by simply placing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device provides high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet, you can find ready-made drawings of devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you should understand the principle of working with a drill.

During operation, it is strictly forbidden to allow the movement of the drill around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind a small distance for re-processing.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down, also take measurements with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by such errors:

• the corners will be correct and symmetrical, but the length of the cutting edges will not. In this case, the center of drilling will shift relative to the axis, as a result of which beats appear. At the very beginning of work, it will be difficult to get into the markup, and the drill itself may break;
• When the corners of the cutting edge are asymmetrical to each other, the centering is accurate. During the creation of holes, only one cutting part works, the work is very slow and the tip heats up quickly. There may be a "release" of the hardened metal due to heating, the hole may be broken, and the diameter will exceed the diameter of the drill.

How to assemble a grinder for metal twist drills from improvised means?

For the basis of the device, you can take any grinding machine that is able to work properly, there is no axis beating in it, and it keeps the speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the handist must strictly stand horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semiautomatically;
• the shape of the handpiece should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

Specific details for the manufacture of this device are not required, almost every home master has everything you need. The blanks are processed with a grinder, welding or a grinder.

For the semi-automatic mode, a rocking stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Accurately match the holes of the bolt, bracket and tube to eliminate backlash.

The platform must move along the vertical axis so that you can change the angle of sharpening the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the hand rest should swing, while leaning on the horizontal axis, which provides the desired articulation when sharpening.

The base plate is made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure must be 3 mm thick, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The handpiece with the body of the emery is rigidly connected. It is impossible to fasten it to the protective casing, therefore, use the metal "cheek" to screw the bracket.

Then we fasten the guide plate for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the base plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, a triangular groove is sawn.

The design has an angle of rotation of 90 degrees, which allows for sharpening different methods. Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute edge angle due to the curvature of the emery.

During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the base plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should be pressed against the plate and set the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is over and you can bring the tool to the emery. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitor the angle.

Thanks to such a home-made tool, high sharpening accuracy is achieved and a template is practically not needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you can easily quickly sharpen the drills in the right amount.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide nozzle, then you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, put several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal grinding work, white circles based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal blanks.

In order to process carbide drills or high-speed metals, it is necessary to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for domestic needs, the grain size of the circle is enough for 25N.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the range from 8H to 16H. Remember that silicon carbide emery gets very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such an abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 passes and chill it in soda water.

The quality of the edge depends on the direction of rotation of the abrasive. Its working surface must run into the cut (go from top to bottom).

The peripheral surface of the emery during processing must be even. It can be edited with a nozzle based on CBN. If the disk has a small diameter, it is allowed to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity in order to sharpen drills and more. Choose suitable option you can according to your household needs.

Homemade machine for sharpening drills

instrument.guru

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening machine - penny costs, profit - ruble

Drilling metal or wood is a job that you do regularly. A high-quality nozzle does not require sharpening for a long time, but there are some errors in which blunting occurs ahead of time:

1. The use of a drill that does not match the material being processed. This does not necessarily mean drilling reinforced concrete with a wood drill, although in this case you will instantly turn the cutting tool into a bar with a rounded end. There are specially made drill bits for drilling various types of metal and hard plastics. In case of discrepancy - the cutting edge quickly becomes unusable;
2. Wrong sharpening angle. This value must also correspond to the type of material in which the hole is made;
3. Overheat. The most common reason. When working with durable material, we want to quickly finish drilling, and we often forget about such trifles as cooling the work area. If it is not possible to ensure the supply of coolant to the tool, it is necessary to take breaks to cool the cutting edge. You can dip a hot drill into a container of water.

The mechanism of hot blunting is simple: The hot edge is “released”, that is, it loses its hardness. Cutting properties deteriorate, resulting in increased friction. Heating increases more strongly, and the process is aggravated in an arithmetic progression.

As a result, we may lose a good and possibly expensive tool. If there is a grinder for drills at hand, the problem is solved on the spot, if not, you have to invent your own methods of sharpening.

Manual sharpening without tools

Locksmiths with extensive experience sharpen drills with their hands, using only a sharpener with a handy tool. But not all home masters can boast of such skills.

In addition, in this way it is possible to restore sharpness only to products of large diameter. Then it is easier to control the angle. The most popular size (3-5 mm) cannot be sharpened in this way. Even a template won't help here.

Craftsmen who regularly carry out drilling work will be interested in the variety of grinders for drills offered in power tool stores.

However, such devices (despite the obvious ease of use) are quite expensive. So the “home-made” run to the store for another Chinese tip. But home craftsmen with experience still use a tool from the times of the USSR, which corresponds to GOSTs in terms of strength and durability.

The secret is simple - many locksmiths of the old school have in stock homemade machine for sharpening.

IMPORTANT! For most household chores, you can get by with simple sharpening tools. Especially if the word "machine" scares you.

The simplest devices for dressing the cutting edge of the drill

To understand the process, take a look at constituent parts tip.

Clamp "swift". To use this device, it is enough to have an emery wheel (grindstone) equipped with a durable handpiece. The drill is clamped in the device at the desired angle of rotation of the edge. By controlling the feed angle of the cutting edge, we form it on the grindstone, then, without changing the angle, we “leave” for sharpening the backing.

The device necessarily rests on a handpiece, the angles are controlled by hands. If you have certain skills, you can get a good result with obvious savings.

IMPORTANT! Before using the device on quality tips, practice on defective ones. This will allow you to “fill your hand” and “feel the angle”, as the masters say.

Of course, the use of a template is required.

Also, before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the standard tables of sharpening angles for various drilling materials.

Sometimes it is enough just to change the angle and level setting of the tool rest, and sharpening large drills becomes an easy task.

This method is appropriate for small amounts of work and the absence of high requirements for the quality of drilling. If you drill regularly and accuracy is important, you will have to buy a grinder or make one yourself.

Homemade grinding machine - basic design principles

There are two main tasks:

• Feed the cutting edge of the drill to the flat side of the abrasive wheel at a strictly fixed angle. To do this, the machine must have an angular degree grid. Moreover, the angles are maintained in two planes - horizontally and vertically;
• After forming and sharpening the cutting edge, it is necessary to form a backing. To do this, the fixture must have an axis of rotation;

No matter how modern the machines and devices offered in stores look, the principle of their work has not changed for more than 100 years. This is evidenced by a photo of a manual from a vocational school of the sample of 1905.

Consider step by step how to make a device for sharpening drills from improvised materials.

Tools used:

1. welding inverter;
2. angle grinder (Bulgarian);
3. Drill;
4. The standard set of a locksmith - pliers, hammer, vice.

Materials used (found in a pile of metal junk that is in every home workshop):

1. Corner 30-30 mm. Length 100-150 mm;
2. Metal plates 3-4 mm thick;
3. Steel circle or hairpin with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
4. Washers of different sizes, standard fasteners.

We take the angles of the factory sharpening as a basis. Based on this scheme, we assemble the entire structure.

The bed is made of a steel plate, on which, according to the factory drawing template, an axis from a circle with a diameter of 12 mm is welded. Axis tilt angle 75°.

A washer is tightly fitted onto the axle, which will serve as a support bearing for rotary mechanism lodge. Since the turn will be made at a small angle, a ball bearing is not needed.

From the corner we cut out the bed for the drill. Length about 100 mm. The side that will face the grindstone is ground at an angle of 60 °. The bracket for the swivel assembly is welded at an angle, according to the drawing. As a result, we have a general design angle with a parallel position of the bed and bed, corresponding to the sharpening parameters of twist drills.

IMPORTANT! For drills for various metals, provided various angles cutting edge, and grinding machines must have an adjustable angle. The proposed design has a fixed angle, for the sake of ease of execution.

We make adjustment tests. Sharpening begins with a perpendicular position of the tip relative to the axis of rotation of the emery.

Then, by turning the bed, a plane (more precisely, a cone) of the backing is formed.

Sharpening is checked on the template and evaluated visually. All planes comply with the standard.

A guide is welded to the lower (rear) part of the corner bed to stop the drill shank. The emphasis itself is welded from the coupling and the corner.

Fixation is made with a screw. The stop is set to the limit value of the edge to be ground, and due to this, both cutting elements of the drill are ground symmetrically.

The sharpening of the working edge is made against the rotation of the emery wheel. In this case, the resulting burr is automatically removed by the running surface of the emery. For sharpening, two or three swings of the bed along the radius of the backing cone are sufficient.

This type of drill is sharpened along the outer surface of the emery stone, if necessary, use the lateral (radial) plane - the device can be turned to any angle.

The drill grinder is attached to the workbench with a clamp. You can fix the base permanently - but in this case, the possibility of fine adjustment will be lost.

As noted at the beginning of the material, this device has a fixed bed angle. If it becomes necessary to change the angle, for example, for dressing a drill for non-ferrous metals, you can place a wedge of the appropriate inclination under the bed.

This design is not the only one available for self-production.

Let's consider a fundamentally different option that works on the same principle: Parallel to the axis of rotation of the electric motor, a "P" shaped portal with a swing bed in the upper part is installed. The height of the bed is selected so that the drill is higher than the axis of rotation of the emery wheel.

The bed has an angular range of almost 180°, which allows you to sharpen drills with both the upper clamp and the lower one.

The horizontal angle is adjustable, depending on the type of handpiece.

As a stop for the shank of the drills, bushings with clamping screws are used. This design allows you to adjust the drill overhang to the nearest millimeter.

The sleeve is installed in one of the rectangular grooves of the bed, and securely fixes the drill from horizontal movement. Diametrical studs in the sleeve serve for the correct orientation of the drill in the plane of sharpening. After processing one edge, the drill is turned over 180 ° and the second side is processed.

The distance to the emery is selected in such a way that too much material is not removed during sharpening. Shaking the bed several times, sharpening is performed until the drill passes freely along the emery.

The quality of processing does not differ from the use of factory sharpening machines. Drills from 3 to 15 mm.

Autonomous drill sharpening machine

The options considered are in addition to the standard grinding machine. You can also make a full-fledged compact sharpening machine yourself, without the use of expensive components.

The bed is assembled from plexiglass 10 mm thick. The motor is from an old fan. The guide works on the principle of a caliper - the stop is fixed in an approximate position, then the exact distance to the grinding wheel is set using the trimmer screw. The drill moves horizontally, at a predetermined angle.

Having made any of the presented devices, you will save money, and you will always be provided with a supply of sharp drills.

Video tutorial "Manual sharpening twist drills" will help you understand how to restore the sharpness of the drill at home with regular emery.

obinstrumente.ru

Making a homemade grinding machine for drills

The device for sharpening drills is useful in any household. After all, working with a blunt drill is one torment. The mechanism can be made by hand using unnecessary and obsolete parts.

Drill sharpening rules

combined machine for sharpening drills and not only

Drills can be sharpened on special grinding discs, manually or on machines. Before starting work, carefully examine the drills: if there are serious defects on the surface, you need to start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. If the tool is a little dull, use a finishing disk.

When sharpening manually with your own hands, you need to follow the rules:

• hold the shank with one hand, touch up the working end with the other;
• to process the cutting edge with the side of the grinding disk;
• first, one side is sharpened, after which the drill is carefully turned over and the second is processed.

During processing, it is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting edges. It is necessary to ensure that the tip of the tip does not move from the center, otherwise the tool will deviate to the side during operation. If after sharpening the angle of the cutting edges is not the same, the work of the drill will be of poor quality. This is determined using a do-it-yourself template, or by eye: the shape of the tip should be a cone. To avoid mistakes, it is better to edit on specialized devices.

Types of grinding equipment

A home-made device is provided for sharpening drills from various metals, cutters, taps, cutters, countersinks, cutters.

Equipment can be:

• specialized - processes a single type of tool;
• universal - used for all types of cutters and drills.

Homemade mechanisms are more often referred to as universal household type. Industrial machines are powerful, work with large tools. There is no need for such houses, they are noisy, take up a lot of space and are energy-intensive.

Household homemade machines are suitable for sharpening small and medium diameter drills, they are compact and economical.

Making a sharpening machine

To assemble the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• electric motor;
• grinding disc;
• toggle switch;
• stand;
• electric cable;
• plug.

All components of the machine do-it-yourself are placed inside the case. This will make your work safe and convenient. Only the pulley of the electric motor, on which the grinding wheel is put on, should be accessible. The machine is permanently attached to the workbench, so the place must be selected in advance.

• place the motor in Right place, on the table, mark the attachment points;
• drill holes for mounting bolts;
• return the electric motor to its place and screw it to the workbench; clamps made of thin metal strips are suitable for fastening;
• install the protective case;
• put a grinding wheel on the engine pulley.

It is advisable to choose an engine with an extended pulley, otherwise it will have to be delivered. First, the puck is put on, then the circle. If the diameters of the pulley and the disk do not match, an adapter sleeve is used. A threaded hole is made on the side of the bushing, an additional mounting bolt is screwed into it.

In terms of power for a homemade machine, an engine from washing machine. Do not select a high-speed engine, as the drills are sharpened at low speed.

Now you can connect the electrical component: toggle switch, motor and connect them to the outlet.

Additional devices

sharpening template: a - template; b - angle at the top and length of the cutting edges; c - taper angle; d - the angle between the cutting surface and the jumper

Do-it-yourself accessories will make the work of sharpening drills more convenient and accurate.

Template for verification. The template is cut out of a sheet of thin (1 mm) soft metal (aluminum, copper). The template reveals the angles at the point, the duration of the working edges, the angle between the working edge and the bridge. Since it is almost impossible to check the rear angle of sharpening the drill with a template, the sharpening angle is verified. The template is cut before the first use of the drill.

Guide. This is a small prefix, which is made of a metal strip and is fixed to the body with a bolt. During operation, the drill is placed on the guide and brought to the grindstone.

Goniometer. On the stand, which is described above, divisions of the sharpening angles are applied. You can cut off part of the metal protractor with the marks of the corners and attach it to the stand. You need to cut off a part with angles of more than 30 degrees, since smaller ones are not used when sharpening.

Device for sharpening drills: 1 - rail; 2 - drill; 3 - grinding wheel; 4 - bed; 5 - holder

A device that facilitates sharpening drills. It consists of a fixed bed and holder, which has holes for inserting cutters of different sizes. The holder can be removed. The bed is made of a 50 mm board, a rail is attached to it at an angle of 32 degrees. The rail exposes the holder with the tool at the required angle. The do-it-yourself holder is sawn out of a bar, the surface of which is removed at an angle of 65 degrees. The beveled part fits to the rail. The bevel angles of the holder and rail depend on the type of sharpening.

Multifunctional mechanism

universal tool for sharpening drills

Sharpening drills will become easier when using this mechanism. The device consists of:

• roller sled;
• guide;
• shaft;
• protractor;
• drill chuck.

The guide should be made wide enough, a protractor is attached to it. A bolt inserted into the provided hole serves as the axis of rotation. Guides and a movable plate are placed on the rotary part. An axis, a tube, is fixed on its surface, on the one hand the axis ends with a drill chuck, on the other - with a handle. The movement of the stop plate is provided by a threaded axle.

At the bottom of the thrust plate there is a limiter (aka a pointer), which simultaneously indicates the required offset angle and fixes it in the desired position.

The mechanism works as follows:

• the drill is fixed in the cartridge;
• the thrust plate is locked at the required angle;
• the tool is rotated along the longitudinal axis with the help of a handle;
• mark the corner;
• turn the cutter 90 degrees and process the second half, reaching the marked angle.

Sharpening rules on a homemade machine

• When processing drills, both shoulders must be identical. This means that the drill will go straight into the hole and drill well.
• Before starting the machine with your own hands, securely fasten the grinding wheel to the pulley.
• Primary processing is carried out with a disk with a large abrasive. When you notice a burr on the drill, the disc should be changed to a thinner one.
• Maintain the required angle while sharpening.
• The circle should rotate in only one direction, along the blade.
• Do not allow the torch to overheat; during processing, it should be cooled periodically. Do not dip an overheated tool in cold water, as this will cause the metal to crack.

Several options for sharpening drills in videos:

When drilling holes in parts made of metal, the tool used is subject to active wear, which leads to intense heating of the drills and, as a result, to their failure. To avoid this, it is necessary to regularly restore their geometric parameters, and a special device for sharpening drills helps to do this as accurately and efficiently as possible. This simple device, which you can make yourself, allows you to quickly and efficiently sharpen dull drills and not spend money on acquiring new ones.

A device designed for sharpening drills is especially relevant in cases where these tools often have to be worked on metal, as a result of which they wear out quickly and require regular restoration. When processing wood, the drill used for these purposes practically does not wear out, therefore, it requires minimal attention to the parameters of its sharpening. For drills, the cutting part of which is equipped with carbide inserts, such a device is also not particularly significant, since they practically do not undergo regrinding and are used by craftsmen until they are completely worn out or broken.

Many experienced specialists do not use sharpening devices at all, relying entirely on their experience and eye. However, as practice shows, in such cases it is better to use devices that allow mechanizing this process. This will ensure maximum accuracy and the required quality of the result.

On modern market there are many accessories for sharpening drills that allow you to quickly, accurately and accurately restore the geometry of the cutting tool even if you do not have experience in performing such procedures. Meanwhile, you can not spend money on the purchase of such devices, but make the simplest machine for sharpening drills with your own hands.

Manufacturing options

On whatever device or machine the drill is sharpened for metal, its quality must be controlled. For this, a special template is used, which can also be serial or handmade. This template is necessary primarily to control the accuracy of the angles of the cutting part, which are formed during the sharpening of the drill. Tools used to work with various materials, differ from each other, including the values ​​of such angles. To know exact values the latter can be from the reference table.

Working with different materials and knowing the angles of the cutting part of the drills for such materials, you can make several templates at once and use them to control the correct sharpening of the same drill, which in this case acts as universal tool.

As the simplest tool for sharpening drills, you can use a sleeve with an inner diameter corresponding to the transverse size of the drill, rigidly fixed on a reliable base at a certain angle. When choosing a sleeve for such a device, it is necessary to ensure that the diameter of its inner hole strictly corresponds to the transverse size of the drill being sharpened. The tool being machined should not be allowed to dangle in such a hole, since even a 1–2 ° deviation of its axis from the required value can seriously reduce the quality and accuracy of the sharpening performed.

It is better to immediately equip a home-made device for sharpening drills with a holder made of copper or aluminum tubes, the inner diameters of which correspond to the typical sizes of the drills you most often use. You can do it easier and supplement such a device used for sharpening drills with a wooden block. In the bar, it is necessary to drill holes corresponding to the sizes of tools of various diameters. The most important design element of such a device is a handpiece, which simultaneously solves several important tasks:

• ensures the correct fixation of the drill and its precise movement in relation to the surface of the grinding wheel;
• acts as a reliable stop for the machined tool.

A similar device based on an oak bar with holes different diameter our grandfathers also used it, who used it to perform high-quality and accurate sharpening of drills. The main task that a home-made machine tool or device used for sharpening drills should solve is to correctly orient the cutting part of the drill being processed in relation to the working surface of the grinding wheel.

To make a homemade drill sharpening machine, you can use various designs similar devices. Corresponding drawings are easy to find on the Internet. Moreover, if you understand the principle of operation of such a device, then you can make your own grinding machine according to your own design.

Fixture details drawings

Promoport Promoport platform Mobile platform
Drill holder and stop screw Turntable Bolts, nuts, pins and washers

Exists important rule, which must be observed when working with such a device: during its use, the sharpened drill should not rotate around its axis. If the tool turns even at a small angle, sharpening will have to be done again.

After sharpening the drill, it should be allowed to cool. Then you need to check its restored geometric parameters using a template. It must be borne in mind that the cutting edges of the tool may differ from each other in length by no more than tenths of a millimeter. It is especially important to comply with this requirement for drills with a small diameter.

Among the mistakes made when sharpening drills using such a device, two of the most typical stand out.

1. The length of the cutting edges, even with their symmetry and correctly selected angles, is not the same, respectively, the drilling center is offset relative to the tool axis. A drill that has been sharpened with such an error will create a strong beating during the drilling process, and it will be quite difficult to get into the center of the future hole on the surface of the workpiece. A tool sharpened in this way is more likely to break during further operation.
2. With precise centering of the drill, the angles under which its cutting edges are located are asymmetrical. Since only one cutting edge will work due to this, drilling will be slow, while the tool tip will actively heat up. This will lead to the tempering of the metal from which the drill is made, and the hole created will be broken (it will have a diameter greater than the transverse dimension of the tool itself).

How to make a twist drill sharpening machine

As a basis for the manufacture of a sharpener for twist drills, you can use any serial grinding unit that can work without runout and withstand significant loads. When equipping such a machine with additional devices, the following requirements must be observed.

• The axis of the handpiece must coincide with the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel, while it can be located with it in the same horizontal plane or be higher than it.
• All elements of the structure to be created must be securely fixed to ensure the safety of grinding work.
• The design of the device should allow for the possibility of sharpening drills both in manual and semi-automatic modes.
• The device of the handpiece should provide for the possibility of positioning the drill shank at any angle.

In the manufacture of this device for sharpening drills do not require complex technical devices and scarce materials that will have to be purchased additionally. All components can be found in almost any home workshop or garage. As equipment and tools with which such components will be finalized before assembling the fixture, you can use an ordinary grinder and a welding machine.

Since the stop of such a device must be oscillating, which is necessary for sharpening drills in semi-automatic mode, a loop connection should be used to fix it. When selecting a tube, bracket and bolt for the mounting unit, it should be borne in mind that there must be no backlash in the fixture. Homemade of the proposed design has two degrees of freedom.

The platform of such a device, on which the processed drill is fixed, has the ability to rotate along the vertical axis, making it possible to change the angle of sharpening the tool. In addition, the tool resting on a horizontal axis can oscillate, which ensures correct articulation during sharpening.

For the manufacture of structural elements of such a device, sheet metal different thickness, namely:

• base plate - 4 mm;
• guide plate for drill - 5 mm;
• other structural elements - 3 mm.

The handpiece of the device, on the upper part of which the base plate is installed, must be securely fixed to the body of the grinding machine. For this, an additional metal “cheek” is used, which is connected to the device bracket.

The guide plate, on the surface of which it is necessary to make a triangular groove designed to accommodate the machined tool, is fixed on the base plate with a screw connection.

device and design features of the considered device for sharpening drills allow it to rotate at an angle of up to 90 °. Thanks to this ability, almost any of the methods used today can be used to sharpen drills with this device.

The drill sharpened with such a device fits into the guide groove and can move freely in it in the longitudinal direction. In this case, the sharpening angle of the tool does not change.

Since the upper surface of the base plate is located slightly above the axis of rotation of the grinding wheel, when using such a device, the optimal shape of sharpening the rear surface of the drill is achieved.

The process of sharpening drills using such a device is as follows.

• The tool is positioned in the guide groove of the fixture so that its cutting edge is parallel to the edge of the guide plate.
• After adjusting the position, the drill is slowly fed to the working surface of the rotating grinding wheel.

It well demonstrates the process of working with such a device video, which is easy to find on the Internet.

Despite the simplicity of the design, such a device provides high accuracy of the performed sharpening, for quality control of which you can not even use a template. By fixing the oscillating plate of this jig to a fixed angle, it can also be used to sharpen drills equipped with carbide inserts.

In order to successfully sharpen drill bits for metal, most of which are made of high speed steel, it is necessary to use a sufficiently hard grinding wheel. In this capacity, you can use an abrasive tool made of silicon carbide. These wheels, which are recognizable by their green color and the 64C marking, should have a grain size in the range of 8H - 16H. When using discs made of this material, it must be borne in mind that they get very hot during operation, so the drill being sharpened should not be allowed to be in prolonged contact with the abrasive tool. In order to prevent the drill from overheating when it is sharpened on such a disk, the tool must be regularly cooled using an aqueous solution of soda.

Drills for metal are always hardened, but products can become dull over time. Naturally, this is not a reason to throw them out. If desired, you can sharpen the drill with your own hands, using professional equipment or home-made devices.

The main types of sharpening

Experienced craftsmen know that sharpening a drill for metal can be different. depending on diameter and application.

• Single plane sharpening is designed for drills with a maximum diameter of 3 mm. In the process of doing the work, it is possible to “chunk” the edge, so you need to be very careful. To properly sharpen the product, it should be applied to the circle and moved parallel to the surface.
• The tapered procedure is for larger metal cutting tools. In this case, the tool must be held with both hands, making consistent sharpening.
• Finishing is performed after the end of sharpening. Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to grind the cutting edge and eliminate even the smallest notches.

To sharpen the drill with your own hands correctly, you must use the appropriate machines. Similar devices are divided into 2 groups.

If you are interested in the question of how to sharpen a drill for metal, then be sure to purchase the appropriate machine. For home use, an inexpensive model with medium power is suitable. It will allow you to sharpen small drills for metal.

Naturally, when buying pay attention to the noise level, as well as the design of the model. The best option would be a simple machine, because to choose for it the right details it will be easy.

It is necessary to buy such devices only in specialized places, since the kit provides for the presence of a technical passport. Moreover, you will be given a warranty card.

Use of machines at home

As mentioned earlier, at home it is advisable to use household machines. With their help, it is possible to sharpen different kinds drills It is important to remember that for some varieties you will have to buy the appropriate circles.

To sharpen the drill yourself, you should give preference to a machine equipped with a universal chuck. It allows you to clamp elements of various diameters.

The kit often comes with:

• keys;
• collets;
• spare parts;
• lamp for the working area.

The equipment from Drill Doctor and GS is the most popular. Similar products are designed for sharpening drills with a diameter of 2–13 mm and 14–34 mm. Unfortunately, this equipment does not allow you to sharpen drills that are too thin. For this purpose, you will have to purchase a special machine.

All equipment designed for sharpening drills at home, has a number of advantages:

• the ability to work from the mains;
• high performance;
• ease of use;
• functionality;
• sharpening accuracy;
• affordable price;
• compact dimensions;
• light weight;
• convenient control system, thanks to which you can adjust the intensity of sharpening and its speed.

Homemade sharpeners

If you do not have the appropriate machine, then you can sharpen using other devices. We are talking about an electric drill or home-made equipment, created according to the drawing. It is best to give preference to the second option, otherwise you can ruin a lot of drills before you master the correct sharpening.

You can even create a suitable fixture with your own hands from wood. So, a bar with holes corresponding to the diameter of the drills is fixed on a horizontal surface. The mentioned holes are made at a slight inclination to obtain the required sharpening angle.

Some masters prefer an electric drill equipped with the appropriate nozzles. Naturally, a small range of similar items, which complicates the sharpening with your own hands. As a rule, a stone and a leash are included with the nozzles. If you plan to sharpen drills using a specific drill, the leash should be shortened immediately.

If you wish, you can independently make a similar nozzle for a drill, guided by the recommendations given in the corresponding video. Such devices must be equipped with fasteners for fixing the drill.

Features of the sharpening process

If you first decided to sharpen a part with your own hands, do the work in a strict sequence.

1. First of all, the back surface is processed. So, the drill is pressed tightly and constantly monitored so that the sharpening angle remains the same. As a result of processing, the tip of the drill will resemble a regular cone.
2. Next comes the turn of the cutting part.
3. The last stage involves finishing the back surface. In this case, it is necessary to make sure that the size of the jumper is no more than 0.4 mm. Naturally, for a large drill for metal, this parameter should be slightly larger.

If something doesn't work out right the first time, don't despair. It is best to start practicing with tools that are unlikely to be needed. The main thing is to learn how to press and maintain the angle correctly. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the side parts of the drill, and not the tip, are responsible for drilling. Accordingly, the edges must be sharpened.

It is important to remember that in the process of sharpening small particles are formed. Because of the heat, they scatter in the form of sparks. It is for this reason that safety precautions must be followed. We are talking about the use of goggles and gloves. Also, when sharpening, make sure that the drill is securely fixed. Otherwise, it may accidentally slip out of your hands.

If you decide to use the appropriate machine for sharpening, be sure to prepare workplace. In particular, we are talking O good lighting. Also need wear protective gloves and goggles.

To properly sharpen the drill with your own hands, you need use a suitable device. It can be a household or industrial machine, as well as an electric drill with a special nozzle. If you have not tried to sharpen a drill before, first check out the corresponding video.

The quality and accuracy of drilling depends on the sharpness of the working tool. Moreover, unlike table knife, the drill must be sharpened correctly. Experienced locksmiths can level the cutting edge on a conventional grinder by simply holding the drill in their hands (at least according to them). But this method requires skill and many years of experience. Even if you have a steady hand and an excellent eye - without understanding the process, you will simply ruin the instrument.

A few basic sharpening rules (for example, spiral drills for metal):

For a better perception of the material, let's remember the device of the drill.

• You can not press the tip to the emery for more than 2-3 seconds in one go. The metal is heated and the so-called "release" occurs, that is, the deprivation of hardening. Accordingly, the required hardness of the metal is lost. The first sign is the presence of temperature tarnishes on the edge.
• For drills with a diameter of up to 4 mm: at each touch of the emery plane, the drill is held in one position: rotation around its axis is unacceptable. For a larger diameter, the sharpening geometry is somewhat different.
• On spiral drills, only the back surface of the cutting part is sharpened.
• cutting edge should be directed towards the rotation of the sharpener (with mechanical sharpening).
• The main angle (in the illustration - 2φ) depends on the type of material being processed.

Which drills to sharpen and how often?

Feather and other special wood drills do not restore at home, and they do not get dull so quickly. Pobedite tips for concrete are not sharpened in principle. The most popular tool remains - twist drills for metal. Of course, they are also used for processing wood (plastic, rubber and even stone), but this is not the topic.

Spiral drill. The cutting edge has a small size, therefore, during operation, it quickly heats up from friction (there is no dispersion area). The main reason for blunting is overheating. At correct use wear is not as intense. Characteristic features blunt drill:

• A creak is heard during operation.
• Instead of curled chips, sawdust comes out of the hole.
• Instant heating of the tool without advance in depth.

Important: Do not work with a blunt drill, wear from overheating will only progress.

So, it's time to sharpen the tool. You do not want to spoil the drill, and you want to mechanize the process.

At your service are mini sharpening machines:

All devices are divided into two types: nozzles or stops for a universal tool, and independent devices of a narrow specialization. Consider the most popular of them, from simple to complex:

This is just a device for those who have a steady hand and a diamond eye. In fact, it only allows you to hold the drill in a given position without fear of injuring your fingers. The control of the angle is visual, according to the position of the "wings" relative to any landmark. There are few advantages: instant readiness for work, compactness and price. The disadvantages are obvious: manual control of the process does not add accuracy.

In fact, this element is not a special tool for drills. It simply allows you to fix the tool at a certain angle. The accuracy will be higher than in the previous version. Most stops allow you to set the angle of inclination, and even have a marking scale. And yet you have to rely on the firmness of the hands.

There are also more advanced stands: with interchangeable elements and adjustment of not only the angle, but also the height. Devices are mounted not on the body of the emery, but on the workbench: which makes them more versatile.

In fact, such an emphasis can be adapted to any electric grindstone. An additional bonus - with the help of such a stand you can sharpen knives, cutters, screwdrivers, chisels, etc.

Semi-professional guides for all types of drills

This is a fairly advanced tool that allows you to control sharpening characteristics to the nearest micron. All linear parameters are securely fixed, the values ​​are set according to the markup. The drill is fixed in the chute, accidental displacement or rotation around its axis is excluded.

For sharpening, the possibility of both linear movement and movement of the edge along the arc path (for conical sharpening of large diameter drills) is provided. Linear movement (along the axis) can be controlled by the master, or a limit stop can be set.

From the point of view of the quality of processing, there are practically no shortcomings in the device. But for proper sharpening, the operator must know the parameters of the drill. That is, there is no automation: therefore, the tool belongs to the category of professional.

As a development of the line - a guide with its own sharpening unit. There is no need to set the emphasis on the workbench and change the discs. In fact - you have a semi-automatic desktop sharpening machine.

Important note: All of the listed accessories are designed to work with standard electric sharpeners. Therefore, before starting the processing of drills, it is advisable to install a special emery disc.

They are a specialized power tool for a single task: sharpening twist drills.

Even a person who is far from technology can use the machine (although, why should he sharp drills?). The operator is only required to determine the diameter of the drill and plunge it into the appropriate hole. It is convenient to work, errors are practically excluded. However, all drills are sharpened “one size fits all”. The price paid for ease of use is the lack of flexibility in settings. For home use – the best choice: especially if there is an additional attachment for sharpening knives and scissors.

There are versions for masters. The drill is installed taking into account the sharpening parameters, the process can be controlled by the operator.

The angle of sharpening, the method of processing the edge (linear or conical), the depth of metal removal are selected. The drill is located not in a common holder, but in an individual cartridge.

Industrial sharpening equipment for a metalworking shop

With intensive use of drilling machines, a separate post is required to restore the tool's performance. Professional stands for sharpening drills of any diameter save time and effort, but the cost of such equipment is too high for home use.

The information obtained will help you choose a sharpening device, without extra financial costs. In addition, there are interchangeable nozzles for hand-held power tools (for example, a drill). But that's a topic for another article.

Do you need the drills to always be sharpened, and you can’t find a special machine during the day with fire even in specialized stores? And make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands. You can easily assemble a simple structure if you have at least a little experience in working with basic tools.

Homemade machine

A drill sharpener can be of great value in the household, as with the help of this device you can independently sharpen drills of any diameter and type. In addition to the manufacture of a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a grindstone.

Main materials:

1. Metal plate with holes - 1 pc.;
2. Bolt or stud 70x15 mm long;
3. Set of washers;
4. Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
5. Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
6. Cotter pin - 30x1.5 mm;
7. Clamps.

In addition to materials, you will need tools for their machining and connection, in particular electric welding and a grinder.

Tools:

1. Electric welding.
2. Drill.
3. Bulgarian.
4. Hammer with percussion tips.
5. Special clips 2 pcs.
6. Spanners.
7. Pliers.

Manufacturing process:

1. Making the mounting plate

The mounting plate is made of a metal lining with holes about 3-4 mm thick. On the one hand, the part is cut off by 3 centimeters, while during cutting it is required to save the finished hole. The cut off part will be needed for the manufacture of the next part of the grinding device, and a large element for lining during the installation of the product on the table.

2. Corner for fixing the drill

The element is designed to fix the drill during sharpening. It is made by cutting off a part of a regular corner 30x30 or 40x40. The total length varies between 60-90 mm, while the extreme part is cut at an angle of 60 degrees to give the sharpened plane the desired level.

3. Fixing bracket

The cut off part with a hole from the plate is connected to another metal plate, while the elements are superimposed on each other and welded to the corner by electric welding. For welding, a mounting cutout should be cut on the plates in order to butt-fit the parts and scald them.

In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are carefully scalded on all sides to stiffen.

4. Bolt welding

A bolt or stud is designed to fix the corner. The element is welded at an angle of 75 degrees to the main plate. During scalding, the lower plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag in order to prevent the product from being skewed.

5. Fastening the washer to the bolt

The washer on the bolt is installed at a level of 25 mm from the upper extreme part. The approximate diameter is 30 mm. The element is welded using electric welding in the desired design position, observing all levels along the plane.

6. Hole in the stud

In the absence of a hole for installing a cotter pin in a bolt (stud), it is required to make it using a drill and a drill of the required diameter. Due to this technical element the fixing angle will be fixed. The diameter may be different, but the main condition is reliable fixation.

7. Drill stop

It is made of a metal bar and a special vise clamp. The rod is welded to the fixing angle from below. The clamping mechanism is mounted on a bar, while on the device a special bowl-stop for the drill should be equipped from the corner.

The system is mounted on a grinding table and fixed with additional clamps.

Video: how to make a drill sharpener.

Drill grinder

This method is available to anyone. For this you will need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store counter, but already obsolete and not used by you. She will act as an engine.

It must be fixed on the frame, insert a sleeve or a grinding wheel ready for installation or a universal fine-grained disk into the chuck. All. Turning on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is a pleasure to sharpen the drill.

A very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the devices for sharpening the drill, which fixes the element to be sharpened relative to the sharpener.