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Care of trees and shrubs. Care of trees and shrubs in autumn. The composition of the soil mixture

Post-plant care for trees and shrubs is a system of measures aimed at establishing the vital functions of plants after transplantation and accelerating the process of adaptation to adverse environmental conditions.

When planting in spring, the plant needs systemic watering. Assistance in the restoration of the roots is achieved by the introduction of growth stimulants simultaneously with watering. Potassium co-indolyl-acetic acid (heteroauxin), rootin, epin are effective growth stimulants.

The application rate for bush seedlings is 5 liters and tree seedlings 10 liters of solutions of a given concentration (0.002%).

For trees with a clod from 30-70 l -0.003% per 1 tree, depending on the size of the clod.

Solutions of heteroauxin are prepared according to the instructions.

During the season, the plants must be watered at least 7-10 times, depending on the weather. Soil moisture should be maintained within 60-70% of the total field capacity, which is determined by taking soil samples from a depth of 15-30cm.

The best time for watering is morning and evening, night. t water 15-25 0 .

In dry and hot weather, the aerial parts of plants should be irrigated in the morning or in the evening, from hoses with a sprayer, at a water consumption rate of 2 l / m 2.

Conifers are irrigated in the spring the next year after planting, in order to wash off the pollution, a soapy solution of the substance OP-7, OP-10 is added to the water at K = 0.2-0.3%. In the 2nd year after planting, it is useful to combine sprinkling with mineral top dressing. As preparations, a 0.1% solution of urea is used. (1 g / l of water), 0.2% ammonium nitrate solution, 0.5% superphosphate solution, 0.4% K. chloride solution, the soil surface around the plants is loosened to a depth of 5 -6 cm in spring and after watering rains 7-10 times per season.

For hedges, the loosening strip is 0.4 m; to protect plants from freezing, peat or humus is poured into the near-stem holes with a layer of 6-8 cm. During the survival period (shrubs 2 years) trees 3-5 years) check the attachment of plants.

In the future, in the process of operation, maintenance is carried out, aimed at increasing the biological stability and decorativeness in adverse conditions.

The first of the main care measures is to give the crown a decorative look, by partially pruning the shoots and individual branches. When caring for crowns, 3 types of pruning are used:

molding

sanitary

rejuvenating

Forming is used to reduce the crown of a plant or give it an appropriate shape (spherical, cone-shaped, columnar, parallelepiped).

At a young age, a weak pruning is carried out, pinching the shoots by ½ sometimes 3 buds, no more than 20-30% of the annual growth. In middle age, the shoots are shortened to 50% of the length of the year. growth. As a result, the upper shoots lengthen, the leaves become larger.

In fast-growing species (poplar, clear maple), strong pruning is done by 60-70% of the length of the year. shoot growth; spruce and fir used in hedges are pruned once a year at the end of shoot growth.

Forming pruning in fast-growing species is carried out annually, in slow-growing species once every 2 years. When forming artificial forms of trees, a strong pruning is carried out, which turns into a haircut. The shape of the crown is formed in the first 20 years, pruning during this period must be qualified. When the tops of old trees die off, the crown is reformed: the branches growing inside the crown and close together, rubbing against each other, moving away from the trunk at an acute angle and growing vertically upwards, are removed.

Sanitary pruning is carried out during the entire growing season, while removing the branches at the very base (pruning "on the ring"), and the shoots above the bud, keeping it.

Large branches are sawn off in 3 steps:

1st cut is made from the bottom side

2nd cut 2-5 cm higher than the 1st

the remaining stump is cut out next to the trunk.

The cut is covered with oil paint or garden putty. Overgrown and fatty shoots at the roots. necks are cut with the capture of the mother bark to remove the buds at the base of the shoots.

Rejuvenating - designed to maintain the vital activity of old, weakened trees that lose their decorative qualities (the foliage becomes smaller and paler, growth decreases).

Shoots and branches are pruned to the zone of appearance of young shoots by 1/3 - 1/2 L. 1-2 branches of the 2nd order are left on the pruned branch. In the spring - summer period, shoots from callus appear near the cut on shortened branches. The activity of dormant buds located in the outer part of the D. of the trunk and branches increases. If the growth is dense, then thinning occurs, removing excess shoots. Anti-aging pruning is carried out gradually over 2-3 years, starting from the top and large skeletal branches.

Of the conifers - prickly spruce, pruning is done at the beginning of the growing season.

Sometimes trees can be planted “on a stump” (poplar, hornbeam, maple, linden, oak). At the same time, the growth is cut off. They also carry out gradual sawing of part of the roots, cutting annually 1/3 - 1/2 of the root system.

Plants are dug in a trench 30-40 cm wide and 40-60 cm deep at a distance equal to ten times the size d of the trunk.

Loose fertile soil is poured into the trench.

CUTTING THE SHRUBS

There are 3 types of pruning shrubs:

molding

sanitary

rejuvenating

Proper pruning of shrubs is possible only with a clear understanding of the structure of the bush, species or form features, the specifics of growth, vegetative and generative shoots. Forming pruning is carried out to give the bush a shape from the 1st year after planting. Cut off the annual growth, leaving part of the lower buds. There are 3 main types of shrubs:

1. With wintering flower buds

2. With non-wintering, summer flower buds

3.Mixed

In shrubs of the 1st type, the shoot of the last year (quince, spirea, forsythia, caragana) blooms; they are pruned in the summer after flowering. In shrubs of the 2nd type, flower stalks are cut off on the annual shoot of the current year (barberry, snowberry).

Such plants are pruned during dormancy in late autumn or early spring. In shrubs of the 3rd type, flowers are cut from the lateral and apical buds of last year's shoot and the lateral current growth (privet, shadberry, currant). Pruning is carried out after flowering.

SANITARY CUTTING is aimed at removing diseased, drying out and damaged branches; they are carried out annually throughout the entire vegetative period.

REJUVENATING CUTTING is carried out in order to prevent the aging of the bushes. Remove aging branches in species that develop root shoots (lilacs). Grafted plants are cut at h = 10-15 cm from the grafting site, not grafted at the same h from the root collar.

In plants with shoot growth during the 1st season, only flower-bearing side shoots (elder, vesicle, spirea) are pruned next year. Pruning is carried out to the base at the place where a large lateral shoot emerges.

In plants with perennial shoots, the full development cycle is 6-7 years. Pruning is carried out by removing the aging parts of the shoot to the place where large stem shoots appear. In perennial shrubs (almonds, shadberry, cotoneaster), they are pruned, thinning out skeletal branches, shortening shoots.

ROOT CARE

Trees are divided according to the type of root growth:

with 1st Max. root growth (poplar, white acacia);

with 2 Max. root growth (lindens, maples, elms. Ash, horse chestnut, bird cherry);

with 3 Max. root growth (birch, oak, white poplar, bird cherry);

with 4 Max. root growth (Ussuri pear, plum-leaved and Siberian apple trees);

In the spring and in the spring - summer periods, max. root growth, plants should be provided with nutrients and water; in autumn, providing P and K increases winter hardiness.

Fertilizers are applied in the following ways:

by surface spreading

in a focal way in wells with a depth of 20-25 cm, d = 4-5 cm, 3-5 pieces / m2.

In the form of liquid mineral supplements: N= 25-30 g, P= 50-70 g, K= 15-40 g for trees; for shrubs N=6g, P=6g, K=7g.

Terms of introduction April-June, August-October.

Dry top dressing is carried out after rain or watering, stepping back ½ m from the trunk or 30 cm from the root neck.

Liquid top dressing is carried out at the rate of 40-60 l / m2, for trees 10-15l / m2 - for shrubs. Currently complex polymeric fertilizers (SPU) are used in red, light gray color, N=26% content, including water-vegetable N=10%, P2O5=20%.

Apply 200g/m2 under trees and 80-100g/m2 for shrubs.

Organic fertilizers are distributed evenly over the trunk area according to the projection of the crowns. After spreading the fertilizers, they are incorporated into the soil by rolling (peat).

Organic fertilizers applied in liquid form (mullein 1:5), bird droppings (1:15). HB= 15-25 l/m2.

For cleaning from dust and prom. emissions, sprinkling of plant crowns with detergents at a concentration of 0.1-0.3% is carried out, 2-3 times per season.

Foliar top dressing - the introduction of solutions of macro- and microelements through the leaves by spraying the crowns. They are carried out 1-2 times during the growing season, the 1st time during the period of intensive growth, in the phase of the formation of the upper bud; 2nd time for 10 liters of water - 30 g of ammonium nitrate; 50g urea; superphosphate and chlorine 150g each. The consumption of the solution depends on the H of the tree. When H tree = 5m -5l, etc., more than 20m - 30l.

For shrubs 6 2-3l.

CARE OF PLANTS AND METHODS OF THEIR FORMATION

Trees are divided into 4 groups:

trees are normally developed;

trees without visible processes of oppression, but with a decrease in the growth of lateral shoots;

with noticeable oppression (sparse crown, dry branches, weak growth);

plants with sharply weakened growth (crown is very sparse).

DIAGNOSTICS OF THE STATE OF PLANTS

Morphological method - measurement of Z shoots and leaf area;

Anatomical - determination of the development, structure and ratio of tissues of vegetative organs (stomata, parenchyma).

Physico-biochemical - requires special equipment, reagents, is one of the laboratory methods. The assessment is carried out by increasing the proportion of growth stimulants.

Trees 1 gr. fertilized 1 time in 3 years in the forest zone, in the steppe zone 1 time in 2 years.

Trees 2 gr. 2 times in 1 year - in the forest zone, daily in the steppe. In the 3rd gr. intensive and regular care, foliar feeding with microelements. Trees 4 gr. are subject to replacement. and 3gr. over 50 years old. Loosening increases 2-5 times, watering 2-6 times.

Strongly dense plantations (0.9-1.0) are subject to reclamation. Strongly sparse (0.3 and less), overmature, damaged, of little value.

In dense stands, rarefaction is calculated so that 15-20% of solar radiation penetrates under the canopy. With an ordinary landing, individual specimens are removed through a row or in a row. You can use for planting trees in neglected plantations. In low-value plantations, cutting and planting trees are carried out simultaneously.

Shrub care is a series of activities, some of which are held once a season, while others are carried out regularly from early spring until the onset of frost. Regular activities include watering, protection from diseases and mechanical damage, loosening the soil and removing weeds. Seasonal work - pruning, top dressing, warming before the onset of winter. In many household plots, in addition to currants, raspberries, gooseberries and gums, various ornamental shrubs are also planted: barberry, spirea, jasmine, deutsia. It should be remembered that caring for berry bushes is somewhat different from caring for decorative ones.

Properly carried out planting of any plant can influence the development, its growth and fruiting, as well as facilitate further care.

1. Planting time is early spring or autumn. In spring, shrubs can be planted before bud break.
2. Planting seedlings of any of the shrubs is carried out in pre-prepared pits.
3. Their depth and diameter depend on the volume of the root system.
4. The soil extracted from the pit is cleaned of weed roots and mixed with humus (or compost), sand and peat in a ratio of 2:2:1.
5. If the soil is sufficiently moist, and with a lot of rain or snow melting, stagnant water forms, drainage must be taken care of. To do this, a layer of broken brick or rubble is poured at the bottom of the pit, and then covered with a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick.
6. When transplanting a seedling to a permanent place, it is advisable to dig it out with a clod of earth, so you will reduce injury to the root system, and the bush will take root better.
7. Next, the planted plant is thoroughly watered.

Some shrubs planting has its own characteristics. So, the action (pictured) does not tolerate too much deepening of the seedling, so the root neck of the shrub should always remain above ground level.

Barberry does not like acidic soils, so 300-400 grams of ash must be added before planting in the ground.

It is desirable to plant barberries in well-lit places, the lack of sunlight has a bad effect on the development of the bush and significantly reduces fruiting.

But the gum seedling after planting is cut at a level of 50-70 cm above the ground. This is done to balance the root and aerial parts.

Pruning the gumi seedling also allows you to get a lush branched bush in the future.

Spirea bushes are best planted in the fall, so they have time to take root, and next spring you can admire their flowering.

Jasmine. In the fall, it is preferable to plant jasmine; during the autumn planting, seedlings of this ornamental shrub take root better.

Jasmine also loves well-lit places.A bush planted in the shade blooms with smaller flowers, and its branches begin to stretch.

You should also think about choosing a well-lit place if you decide to plant almonds on your site.

The bush is very susceptible to light and does not like highly moistened acidic soils. Therefore, before planting almonds, take care of drainage and add ash to the earth mixture to fill the pit.

Watering, fertilizing and pest control

Tree and shrub maintenance includes regular activities such as

• watering,
• top dressing,
• pest protection.

Watering plants is carried out especially often during the growing season and after planting.

Watering is carried out until the near-stem circle is completely filled with water. Especially abundant watering require spirea and action, blooming in summer.

During the formation of berries, watering is very important for currants, raspberries, gooseberries and gums.

Garden decoration - blossoming almonds

Top dressing of shrubs is mainly carried out in autumn or spring when digging the soil.

1. Manure or compost is applied to the soil around fruit bushes at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush.
2. Top dressing can also be carried out with mineral fertilizers. To do this, 100-120 grams of superphosphate, 30-40 grams of potassium chloride are added under each bush of currants, gooseberries and gums.
3. Raspberries are especially in need of feeding. For each square meter of raspberries, up to 4 kg of organic fertilizers should be applied.

Spraying shrubs, pest control

1. Therefore, if action, barberry, jasmine, spirea grow on your site, feed them 2-3 times per season with the following solution: dilute 10 liters of manure liquid in 60 liters of water.
2. During watering, 10 grams of superphosphate fertilizer must also be added to each bucket.
3. Jasmine can also be fed by adding ash to the soil.
4. Very responsive to regular feeding and almonds. In the spring, a mixture of a liter of humus, a tablespoon of urea and two tablespoons of ammonium nitrate is added to the soil per bush. In autumn, almonds are fed with superphosphate and potassium sulfate (one matchbox each).

A very important point in the care of plants is their protection from pests.

1. In autumn, currants, gooseberries and gum are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.
2. Raspberry branches can be sprayed with the following composition: copper chloride (30 g per bucket of water) and karbofos (20 g).
3. Ornamental shrubs can also be treated with a solution of Bordeaux liquid (as in the photo).

pruning

Pruning is one of the main seasonal activities in both the care of fruit and ornamental shrubs.

1. Pruning more voluminous gooseberry, gum and currant bushes has its own rules and features.
2. Raspberry branches live only two years, after fruiting they are cut off near the very base so that there are no stumps left.
3. Fruit bushes bloom very early, so it is advisable to prune them in the fall.
4. In such shrubs, 12-15 branches of various ages are left.
5. Of the new shoots, a few of the strongest are usually left.
6. If you cut off the tops of older branches, the berries on them will be much larger.
7. Without fail, dried and diseased branches are removed.

Proper pruning of fruit bushes will allow you to get high yields of large and juicy berries every year.

Pruning is also important in maintaining ornamental shrubs. Only here it pursues slightly different goals:

• to achieve the desired appearance,
• hold back the growth
• stimulate flowering.

The method of pruning depends on the type of shrub. All ornamental shrubs can be divided into two main groups:

• flowering (barberry, lilac, spirea, jasmine, hibiscus, action, hydrangea, almond, etc.)
• decorative and deciduous (barberry Thunberg, skumpia, Bumbald's spirea, viburnum spirea, etc.).

In the first few years after planting, flowering plants form a skeleton.

1. To do this, in the spring, weak and twisted branches are cut off, spoiling the appearance of the plant.
2. In subsequent years, faded branches are cut off, leaving the most powerful young shoots.

The faded almonds are cut quite strongly. And such abundantly flowering shrubs as spirea, action and jasmine are pruned in early spring.

This will not only positively affect the number and size of flowers, but also allow the bush to form strong young shoots.

Also, in flowering shrubs, some lignified branches are removed from time to time, reducing the density of the bush.

The second group includes plants with unusual foliage. This group of shrubs needs to be cut very heavily every year (as in the photo).

Strong pruning not only helps form the crown, but also causes the active growth of young shoots, the leaves of which have the most decorative appearance.

Preparing bushes for wintering

And the last type of work that completes the seasonal care of shrubs is preparation for winter. To avoid freezing of branches and death of plants, all shrubs requiring warming must be covered for the winter.

For this, fallen leaves of trees or spruce branches are used.

1. Fruit bushes are tied, giving the branches a vertical position. This helps prevent the bush from breaking under the weight of the snow cover.
2. Raspberry branches are also tied into bundles, bent in arcs, lowering the tops to the ground.
3. In order for the action to endure the winter well, the foot of the bush is covered with a thick layer of fallen leaves. Young shoots of this shrub can be bent to the ground and covered.
4. The spirea also tolerates winter well; only bushes planted in autumn need to be covered.
5. Barberry and almonds also do not need special preparations, even if some branches freeze, the bushes of these plants recover very quickly.

Plants need care not only in the summer season, but also in the winter months, therefore, by summarizing information about the content of various horticultural crops, you can draw up a so-called tree and shrub care calendar.

The timing of the work depends on the soil-climatic conditions of the area, the biological characteristics of the cultivated crops and the timing of the development of plants. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the weather conditions of the current year. The proposed recommendations are designed mainly for the climatic conditions of the middle zone. Based on this, each gardener should use the recommendations, taking into account the specific conditions of the terrain, weather and deviations in air temperature from long-term average data.

January

The main concern in January is to protect trees and shrubs from frost damage. In the absence of snow, the roots may freeze if the soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm drops to -12-18°C. The best protection for roots and stems is snow. If there is not enough snow, then it is collected from the paths and from the ditches. To accumulate snow on the site, branches and brushwood are scattered in advance. If frosts are expected below -30 ° C, then boles and bases of skeletal branches are spudded with snow. After heavy snowfalls, the branches of trees and shrubs can break off under the weight of snow, so the snow is gently shaken off, and during thaws it is removed with a long pole wrapped in burlap or foam rubber at the end.

In winter, the enemies of young trees and shrubs are rodents that eat the bark of boles and skeletal branches. It is not too late to protect the trees even in January (if there was no time to take appropriate measures in the fall). It is necessary to tightly trample the snow around the stem, tie the trunk with spruce branches or wormwood (you can also use roofing material, roofing felt, metal mesh, plastic wrap).

In early January, Schisandra chinensis seeds are soaked in water for five days, changing the water daily. After this period, the seeds are sown in boxes with a soil mixture.

February

February is dangerous for overwintering trees with sharp temperature changes, so you need to constantly ensure that the stems and bases of skeletal branches are under snow cover.

Mice and hares become more active in February. Through high snowdrifts, it is easier for hares to reach young branches that are difficult to protect. At this time, various repellents are used, for example, branches are sprayed with a solution of tar or creolin (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

March

In the first half of March, the snow begins to melt, so we must strive to keep the melt water on the site. Under the rays of the sun, the snow quickly settles, freeing the trunks of trees, which must be inspected for damage by rodents.

If there are only focal and superficial lesions on the cortex and the wounds heal quickly, they may not even be treated. If a significant part of the bark is damaged, the wound is coated with garden pitch.

March is dangerous for trees and shrubs with sunburns on boles and in the forks of skeletal branches. The appearance of burns is explained by the strong heating of the bark on sunny days and the subsequent sharp change in air temperature at night, to prevent this phenomenon, sun-protection whitewashing is carried out.

On warm March days, they usually start pruning trees and shrubs. Start with older plants. After pruning, early spring spraying of shrubs with a 3-4% solution of nitrafen (300-400 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out to destroy the wintering stages of pests. Also in March, they prepare for the arrival of birds - garden orderlies: they clean and repair old bird houses, hang new ones.

In March, boxes with actinidia seeds sown in autumn are transferred from the basement to a bright room with an air temperature of 15-18 C. Usually shoots appear after 15-25 days.

April

Continue pruning until bud break. Begin planting trees and shrubs. First of all, winter vaccinations stored in a cold place are planted.

After the snow melts, the near-trunk areas are freed from insulating material, all last year's leaves and other plant debris are collected and used for compost.

In early May, all planting work should be completed. Plants planted in autumn are carefully examined: if they are deeply buried or planted too shallow, they are transplanted again, watered and mulched.

Continue sowing seeds that have undergone stratification. Follow the emergence of shoots. In May, fruit crops are grafted with cuttings.

In May, the rapid growth of leaves and shoots begins. But if the previous winter caused the trees to freeze, as a rule, their vegetation is delayed. In this case, tree pruning is carried out in May (and not in April).

June

June is the month of intensive growth of shoots and ovaries. It is at this time that both young and adult plants need to be provided with nutrition and moisture as best as possible. The soil is fertilized and maintained in a loose state. In trees with strong freezing of the above-ground part, strong growth of root shoots begins in June. If it is not removed in a timely and correct manner, over time it can overtake the tree itself in growth and even destroy it.

Immediately after flowering, spraying from pests is carried out. In early June, on some shrubs, especially in rainy and cool weather, a dangerous disease may appear - powdery mildew. The first sign of it is the formation of a thin silvery-white coating on the underside of young leaves. With a strong defeat, the bushes can even die. The fight against powdery mildew is effective only at the very beginning of the disease, so in June it is necessary to inspect the shrubs more often in order not to miss the first signs of the disease and spray the plants in time.

July

During the period of mass formation of roots in green cuttings, plantings are fertilized with fertilizers. The soil is loosened, mulched, freed from weeds, make sure that it does not dry out.

Green manure (mustard, phacelia, peas, vetch) is sown in the unoccupied aisles of the garden to enrich the soil with organic substances. They are especially useful in waterlogged areas, as they dry them out and stop the growth of trees, which helps to better prepare them for winter.

At the end of July, seeds of some plants (for example, shadberry) are harvested. In July, the fruits of many trees and shrubs are harvested.

August

The main agrotechnical task of this month is to create the necessary conditions for preparing trees and shrubs for winter. If too much organic and mineral fertilizer has been applied, shoot growth is still
may continue.

Sometimes rainy weather in August causes secondary growth of shoots, to stop this undesirable phenomenon, it is necessary to remove the mulch, and pinch the tops of strongly growing shoots in young plants.

By August, hopeless, dead trees and shrubs are clearly defined, which must be removed from the site.

September

The main work of this month is related to harvesting and preparing plants for winter. Also in September, sanitary pruning of trees is carried out, cutting out all dried and diseased branches into a ring, which are clearly visible against the background of leaves that have not yet fallen.

At the end of September, they dig up the soil in the near-stem areas, water it and fertilize it. If autumn planting of seedlings is planned, then in September planting pits are prepared and filled with fertilizers.

October

At the end of the month, seedlings are dug in for the winter. To do this, they dig a trench 40-50 cm deep, the southern side of which is made inclined, seedlings are placed on it in one row at an angle of 45. The roots are buried to the level of the root collar and watered. The buried plants are covered with spruce branches.

So that the branches of young trees do not break under the weight of snow, they are lifted and the ends are tied to the central conductor. To protect against sunburn, stems and forks of skeletal branches are coated with freshly slaked lime or chalk with the addition of copper sulfate, previously dissolved in hot water (0.4 kg), and carpentry glue (0.1 kg).

In trees on dwarf rootstocks, as well as those growing on hills and sandy soils, the root system may freeze slightly in the absence of snow. It is especially important for them that the soil is loose, so it freezes less. A good protection for the roots will be sheltering them with humus, foliage, peat.

November

In November, to prevent the washout of the upper fertile soil layer, furrows are made across the existing slope on the site.

On wind-blown areas, shields and other improvised means for snow retention are placed.

Before the onset of severe frosts, cuttings are prepared for winter and spring vaccination. By mid-November, the main garden work is completed.

If the soil was not dug up in October, it is better to do it now - in good weather. Before the snow falls, they finish whitewashing the stems and bases of the skeletal branches. Young trees are tied up for the winter. The soil near the shrubs is mulched with peat.

December

The first month of winter is characterized by particularly unstable weather - frosts are often replaced by deep thaws. Snow falls, then completely melts, after which a sharp cooling often occurs. In order to prevent complete melting of snow, one must strive to accumulate it on the site. When snow falls, bushes spud them, rake it under the trees.

If the cuttings were not planted in the fall, then in early December, before the onset of severe frosts, they are cut off and stored for storage. In this case, planting is carried out in early spring.

The end of summer is an important period in the life of every summer resident and gardener, because in addition to harvesting the grown crop, one also has to deal with the preparation of vegetation for the winter season. Caring for trees and shrubs in autumn is a complex of various activities that help them to endure the cold season favorably.

It would seem that the harvest of fruits and berries in the country is harvested, what else can you worry about? But it turns out that harvesting in the garden is just the beginning of other worries and troubles. After all, the most important task at this time for the owner of the site is the preservation of the orchard in the cold winter, which includes preliminary care for it, and this can be done only if a certain list of work with trees and shrubs is carried out in the fall.

The main purpose of this procedure is to prepare trees and shrubs for winter, as well as their pruning, which helps increase productivity next year. It can be carried out both in spring and autumn, taking into account the variety of the plant.

The following types of pruning should be distinguished, which are widely used by amateur gardeners in the fall:

• Cutting branches at the base of a plant is called thinning;

Its implementation not only improves the nutrition of the plant, but also increases the access of the light flux to the branches of trees. Young country plantings need this type of pruning every year until the crown is fully formed. Mature trees do not need such a frequent implementation of this procedure, it is enough to prune unnecessary shoots once every few years.

• Removing the upper part of the shoot at the level of the kidney is called shortening.

This type of pruning helps to control the growth of shoots, and also helps to increase fruiting.

It is desirable to engage in the formation of the crown of trees after the cessation of sap flow and up to the very frosts. Unlike spring pruning, in autumn it should be gentle, which will help to avoid severe weakening of the plant.

At the end of summer, you can start removing weak shoots, as well as clean the garden of dry and broken branches. After all, next year they are unlikely to be able to please their owner with a good harvest, but will only give weak and underdeveloped fruits.

The process of pruning fruit trees in autumn can be divided into the following stages:

1. Removal of dry and broken branches, the growth of which is directed inside the crown.

2. Visual assessment of two nearby growing branches and removal of the weakest of them.

3. Removal of branches from the crown of a tree, the growth of which is directed upwards or at an acute angle.

4. Wounds formed on the plant as a result of circumcision must be treated with special solutions: garden pitch, oil paint.

5. The final stage is the cleaning of the area from cut branches, followed by their burning for ashes.

crown formation

Not all of these plants growing in the garden plot need to carry out this procedure. To visually assess the correctness of the crown, you should carefully examine the branches on the trees, and draw a conclusion about their growth. If there are strongly elongated branches on the site, the growth of which is directed upwards towards the sun, it is recommended to lower them slightly and give them a horizontal direction of growth. This can be done by placing a load on the branches of trees, which will help change the direction of growth of the shoots.

However, you should be careful when choosing the weight of the load, since a very large weight can lead to breakage of the branches. The ideal option would be to gradually increase the weight of the load every day, which will ensure an even distribution of the load throughout the tree.

Another way to form the correct crown is to use a pruner. Do not forget that the plant spends a lot of energy on violent flowering, so its molding in the fall will help to evenly distribute the fruits throughout the tree. Pruning shoots with secateurs should be carried out with caution and in accordance with all the rules, without fanaticism, otherwise next year you can be left without a crop.

Autumn sanitary cleaning of the garden

In addition to removing damaged and weakened branches, it is necessary to pay attention to the sanitary condition of the garden. Fallen leaves do not need to be cleaned, as they are an excellent nutrient fertilizer for trees and shrubs. In addition, during a snowless winter, dried leaves will help keep warm, as well as protect the root system from extreme cold. We can always remove it by restoring beauty in the spring.

The use of a talker or garden whitewash will help protect fruit trees from sunburn and frost cracks. Many summer residents consider it sufficient to carry out whitewashing only in the spring, however, this opinion is very erroneous. After all, the processing of trunks in the fall helps not only to get rid of the plant from various microorganisms that live in the bark, but also protects trees and shrubs from the effects of various external factors in the winter.

You can easily purchase a solution for processing trees in a specialized store, or you can cook it yourself at home, which is what most summer residents do. The main components of whitewashing are lime, water, wood glue and copper sulfate, which are taken in predetermined proportions - 2 kg of lime, 10 liters of water, 100 grams of glue and 500 grams of copper sulfate. All components are placed in one container and thoroughly mixed until they are completely dissolved. After a few hours, the resulting mixture becomes usable and is used for whitewashing tree trunks and shrubs.

One of the most dangerous garden pests is the bear, which you can get rid of in the following way: fill a small container with manure and place it at a shallow depth in the ground. It is this building that will become a home for the bears, where they will definitely climb for the winter. In winter, we dig a bucket of insects and scatter them in the cold, which leads to their death.

Autumn is a favorable period for planting fruit trees, namely apple trees. A few months will be enough for the root system to strengthen and be able to provide the plant with everything it needs during its intensive flowering period. Trees should be planted in a well-prepared planting hole with sufficient nutrients for their growth. The planting hole is filled with nutrient soil, the constituent components of which are manure, peat and compost with the addition of dry mineral fertilizers.

Timely harvest

Collection of late varieties of fruit trees is carried out in late autumn. The long stay of fruits on the branches contributes to the preservation of a large amount of useful substances in them, however, we clearly monitor the first frosts in order to have time to harvest. Picking apples and pears is recommended only by hand, without the use of any mechanical pullers or other devices. Their use causes the formation of dents and cracks in the fruit, which significantly reduces their shelf life. For storage, we select fruits without any damage and preferably with a preserved stalk, otherwise healthy fruits will rot from the patient.

Preparing tree bark for winter

The bark plays an important role in the normal life of any plant, so one of the important points in preparing the garden for the winter period is to protect the bark from the effects of various external factors. Sharp temperature changes that are typical for winter, as well as the vital activity of garden pests, lead to the appearance of cracks in the bark of trees.

To avoid these troubles, it is necessary to pay due attention to the proper care of trees in the fall. Whitewashing or a simple rag will help prevent cracks from appearing, which will protect the trunk from the scorching sun.

Rodents and insects become unpleasant guests in the winter garden, for which the bark becomes a tasty product. The most frequent guests of summer cottages are hares who want to feast on the bark of young trees. It is for the safety of such plantings that gardeners widely use kraft paper or spruce paws.

Kraft paper is a material that previously contained cement. Its feature is high density, and special impregnation ensures its integrity and safety in any weather. Such paper is cut into small strips, with which the tree is carefully bandaged along the entire length of the trunk. Then the resulting structure is covered with spruce paws or bags from under the building material. The use of such bags allows you to save air access to the tree trunk, keeps plants from overheating in the strong scorching sun, and is also a good repellent material for rodents and hares.

In order to protect ourselves from their raids, we use special preparations for processing the trunk of trees, or we put a special protective net on the plant.

Fruit bush care

Shrubs, like trees, need careful preparation for winter. Until the thermometer shows the temperature outside below 10 degrees, raspberries (for those who wish, list it) must be combined into small piles and bent to the ground. This is done so that during cold weather and severe frosts, thin shoots do not get cold and die. Also, the autumn period is a good time for transplanting young shoots of this shrub or removing them from the site.

Currant bushes, yoshta (here, like her) and gooseberries are carefully examined in order to identify broken and old branches on them, which we must remove. We transplant young currant shoots, which were previously sprinkled with earth for rooting. Preparing shrubs for winter also includes a thorough loosening of the soil with the introduction of the necessary dressings into it. If desired, you can partially cut them in the fall.

Fertilizing the soil under trees and shrubs

Autumn feeding of trees and shrubs helps not only to improve the qualitative composition of the soil, but also to compensate for the insufficient amount of nutrients in the soil necessary for the normal development of the plant. The leading place at this time is occupied by root feeding, with the help of which the soil is filled with mineral and complex fertilizers containing calcium, phosphorus and potassium.

One of our most common assistants among phosphate fertilizers is superphosphate, which is used both during the planting of shrub seedlings and for feeding them throughout the entire period of their growth. Phosphorus is characterized by low mobility in the soil, and even a slight removal of its particles from the root system leads to the fact that the process of phosphorus entry into the plant is hindered. The main method of fertilizing trees and shrubs is the introduction of phosphorus into the root layer of the soil, since its surface application does not bring the desired result.

Monopotassium phosphate is a non-ballast fertilizer that is completely absorbed by the plant. It is better to use such fertilizers for whimsical and freezing-prone trees, such as apricots, cherries, introducing it into the root layer of the soil.

Many summer residents refuse to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil, as they lead to prolonged growth of shoots, which significantly reduces winter resistance.

It is recommended to start carrying out autumn feeding of shrubs at the end of summer, since it takes several weeks for plants to use the applied fertilizers. In warm soil, the active work of the root system is observed, which absorbs all the necessary substances, and during cold weather the roots freeze and do not accept fertilizers. That is why fertilization must be completed before the onset of cold weather, and sometimes frost.

Features of hardening trees

Many summer gardeners pay close attention to hardening the root system of trees, which helps them survive in conditions of severe frosts and severe winters without snow.

What is the hardening process? It turns out, nothing complicated. Near the trunk of the tree, a small layer of earth is removed and placed in a dry, cool room. The bare root system develops resistance to a gradual decrease in temperature, which increases its endurance in bad weather. When the first frost approaches, the removed layer of soil must be returned to its original place. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure for plants that react particularly strongly to severe frosts (apple and pear trees).

Autumn preparation of the orchard for the coming winter will greatly facilitate its existence in this difficult period. Carrying out the necessary measures to care for the trees and shrubs of the site will lead to the fact that next year the harvest (from which a lot of things can be prepared for the winter, ladies, for example, inspires other liqueurs - that's their common), will be much more successful than last year, and that's all plants will survive and continue to please their owner.

When choosing a plant, you need to pay attention to the packaging of its root system. Plants in containers planted in open ground during the entire growing season - from early spring to late autumn. Optimal timing for planting plants with an open root system - spring and autumn, when plants are in a natural state of reduced activity of physiological processes. Spring plantings are made after thawing and warming up of the soil, before the start of active bud break and shoot formation, autumn - after leaf fall. Overdrying of the roots is unacceptable, especially for conifers.

The optimal dimensions of pits for tree seedlings are 1.0-1.2 m in diameter, up to 0.8 m deep. For shrubs, a diameter of 0.6-0.6 m and a depth of 0.6 m are sufficient. The edges of the pit must be strictly vertical, and the entire volume to have a regular cylindrical shape. First, they remove the top layer of soil on the bayonet of a shovel, free it from the grass and lay it in a pile on the edge of the pit. The lower infertile layer is also laid separately. Grass, the upper and lower layers of the earth will be needed when refueling and decorating the pit. To fill the landing pit, it is necessary to prepare drainage material: broken brick, expanded clay, pebbles, sand. Prepare a soil mixture that should be sufficiently nutritious.

The composition of the soil mixture:

• 1 part river sand
• 2 parts compost
• 1 part fertile soil
• 1.0-2.0 kg of lime
• 1.0-1.5 kg double superphosphate
• up to 1.0 kg wood ash

The components of the mixture are loaded into the pit and thoroughly mixed, having previously thrown the grass left over from cutting the sod into it.

Landing. Shrubs are planted in cloudy weather. The plant is installed by the root on the prepared mound of earth in the planting pit and the position of the root neck (the place where the trunk passes into the root) is leveled at a height of 3-5 cm from the surface of the edge of the pit. Then the roots are sprinkled with earth, filling all the space between them. Next, a stake is set to which the seedling is attached, a hill is formed around the trunk and carefully trampled down. Around the seedling from infertile soil (dug out earlier), a dense annular roller is formed, the purpose of which is not to let water through when watering the seedling or treating it with stimulant solutions. Water the plant generously. After watering, pour a mixture of earth with humus or peat into the ring. This will significantly reduce the evaporation of water from the hole and prevent surface drying and cracking of the soil around the seedling.

Care. Behind the trees and bushes easy to care for - they do not require regular weeding and thinning. Basically, care comes down to feeding, watering, pruning. With pruning, you can rejuvenate the plant by cutting out old branches and releasing young shoots into the open. Trees and shrubs are pruned to encourage flowering and growth year after year. Mulching soil is also very important. Mulching means covering areas of soil near the soil with a layer of some kind, preferably organic material, to retain moisture. For soil mulching, plant materials such as grass, straw, leaves, hedge trimmings, sod, wood waste and bark, as well as well-ripened compost. This organic material is spread in a thin layer on flowerbeds. For mulching black film is also used. Under the mulch layer, the soil does not experience sudden temperature fluctuations, does not dry out during dry periods and does not become waterlogged during heavy rains. It remains moderately moist, warm and loose. Mulch also inhibits weed growth, while organic matter improves soil fertility. For example, sawdust and shavings, among other things, repel slugs, however, it is worth remembering that they acidify the soil. The most favorable time for mulching is the end of spring - the beginning of summer, when the soil is well warmed up. The mulching layer of bark under trees and shrubs can reach a thickness of 20 cm. Pebbles, which are especially good for flower beds and flower beds, can also protect the soil from drying out and retard the growth of weeds.