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How to make a gas burner with your own hands. How to make a gas burner yourself A simple gas burner with your own hands

Many home masters know what gas-burner. Thanks to it, it is possible to perform welding, surfacing and other types of processing of metal products, heat them and connect them. The principle of operation of such a device is to mix combustible gas and oxygen. As a result, a stable flame can be obtained, which has a huge temperature, which is difficult to extinguish. Such burners can be universal or designed for certain works. The fact that the flame is stable makes it possible to use this unit outdoors even in windy conditions. You can either buy it or make it at home. If you are not one of those who are looking for easy ways, we suggest you figure out how to make a gas burner for soldering with your own hands.

Materials and tools for work

To make a regular burner, you will need the following parts and tools:

• Bulgarian;
• hammer;
• sandpaper;
• brass blanks for the nozzle and divider;
• thin brass tube Ø15 mm;
• wooden bars;
• vise;
• FUM tape or silicone seal;
• connecting hoses;
• control valve.

Manufacture of handles and nozzles

Take brass tube and attach a handle to it. If you have a handle from an old burner, you can use it - it will be much more convenient. If not, you can take a wooden block. To make the handle fit comfortably in the hand, it can be processed. It needs to drill a hole for a brass tube. Their diameter must match. After that, the tube is pushed into the beam and fixed there with silicone or epoxy.

For ease of work, the brass tube must be bent above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

The next step is the manufacture of the nozzle. This is a laborious and long process. It needs to be approached with more responsibility. The desired nozzle hole size is 0.1 mm. It is clear that it will be very difficult to achieve this size on your own without special equipment, so you need to drill a hole a little wider and fit the edges to right size. Everything must be done carefully so that the hole is even and does not direct the flame in different directions. After making a hole, fix the workpiece in a vise. Then gently strike the future nozzle with a hammer. This should be done vertically, with a "branch" to the center of the workpiece. Gradually, the part must be scrolled, providing a perfect hole without a slope.

After chasing the part, the nozzle head needs to be sanded sandpaper with fine grain. The back of the part should be threaded to connect it to the tube. A simpler connection method is soldering the nozzle to the pipe. But it should be noted that in this case, the repair of any parts will be very difficult to perform.

In principle, that's all, now you can connect a gas cylinder to the tube, set it on fire and the unit is ready to work. But, now there are some difficulties that interfere with normal work and bring inconvenience. It turns out that the gas flow can be regulated only by opening and closing the valve on the gas cylinder. In this case, it will be very difficult to achieve the required flame strength. What to do?

Work to improve flame regulation

To provide normal work our burner, it is necessary to equip it with a divider and a tap. A suitable place for mounting the tap is near the handle, 2-4 cm higher. But it can also be installed on the supply pipe. A tap from the burner of an expired autogenous burner or its other analogue will do. It is permanently fixed on the tube with a threaded connection. Use FUM tape to seal the connection.

The divider will be installed on the pipe with the nozzle. It also needs to be made of brass Ø 15 mm. Most best option- a cylindrical part with a hole for a tube with a nozzle. If there is none, do the following:

1. Take a brass pipe Ø 35 mm and cut a piece of 100–150 mm.
2. Stepping back from the end, mark with a marker 3-5 points evenly distant from each other.
3. Drill 8–10 mm holes in it with a drill and use a grinder to make even cuts to them.
4. Now you can bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner tube.

To properly fix the divider, it must be placed so that the nozzle protrudes 2–3 mm from the junction. Such a device serves two purposes: to protect the flame from strong winds and to provide it with a flow of oxygen, which is necessary for a more stable and stronger flame.

All welding spots can be smoothed out with a grinder. Then your homemade burner will look more solid. That's all. Now it remains only to supply gas and use the burner for its intended purpose.

Making a mini burner

If you need to work with small parts or boards, then such a large torch will not suit you at all. In this case, you can make a small burner from improvised means, which will produce temperatures up to 1000ºC. You will need:

1. Regular dropper - 2 pcs.
2. Needle for inflating balls.
3. Needle for a medical syringe.
4. Soldering iron.
5. File.
6. Copper wire.
7. Pliers.
8. Grinding stone.
9. Flux for soldering.
10. Thermal gun.

Armed with all the tools, you can get to work. For convenience, we divide the process into the following steps:

Gas will pass through a thick tube, and compressed air through a thin (medical) tube. You can change the pressure of gas and compressed air thanks to the dropper regulators. Such a small burner will be useful for home use.

A gas burner is a useful tool in skillful hands. In order to have it, it is not necessary to go to the store and spend money on a purchase. Everything can be done by yourself. The main thing is to prepare all the materials and tools, as well as to research the technology for making the burner. Before starting work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the design of the tool and the principle of its operation. Then it will be much easier for you to do everything yourself.

Video

Watch a video on how to make a burner from improvised materials:

Video about making a miniature gas burner:

The burner consists of only five parts: a handle, a supply pipe, a body, a nozzle and a divider.

The propane-butane mixture, which is filled with cylinders for domestic gas stoves, under optimal conditions burns in air with a flame temperature of up to 1200 ° C. It is enough to work with "hard" (medium-melting) solders: copper-zinc (brass), silver. But in order to get such a flame, the burner must ensure good mixing of gas with air, that is, their supply in a strictly defined ratio - no more and no less! For the convenience of working with small parts, the torch should be thin, but at the same time stable and hot enough.

The gas pressure in the cylinder is 16 atm., For such a case it is too high, so it is necessary to limit the pressure supplied to the burner to 1.5-3 atm., Using a welding reducer or a valve from the ski tarring kit. In this case, the nozzle jet should have a diameter not more than 0.1 mm. To protect it from accidental clogging at the outlet of the cylinder, a filter element is required, for example, a ceramic one - from a fine fuel filter for the ZIL-130 engine, or a home-made one - from a small ceramic grinding head.

Since the burning rate of the gas-air mixture is relatively low, with a rapid outflow from the jet, the mixture may not have time to ignite - the flame will break off and the burner will go out. gas ignition "crown".

All this was realized in a simple, easy-to-replicate design. The burner consists of only five parts: a handle, a supply pipe, a body, a nozzle and a divider.

The wooden handle was used from a blown soldering iron.

The inlet steel tube has outside diameter 10 mm and wall thickness 2 mm. At one end, three conical belts are machined for tight connection of the hose, and at the other, an M10 thread is cut. Slightly bending the tube on this side, inserted it into the hole in the handle and fixed it there with glue.

Fig.1 Gas burner for flame soldering:

1 - gas supply pipe with a diameter of 10x2 (steel); 2 - handle (wood); 3 - nozzle (steel); 4 - body (brass); 5 - brass divider)

The body and divider are machined from a brass bar with a diameter of 20 mm. Two radial holes with a diameter of 5 mm are carefully drilled in the case - for air supply. Four radial holes with a diameter of 1 mm in the splitter rod provide gas supply to the group of pilot holes in the front flange of this part.

During assembly, the divider was pressed into the body with a slight interference fit. The inner flange of the divider, on the contrary, was installed in the body with a guaranteed clearance: its diameter was machined 0.6 mm less than the inner diameter of the body. This gap is necessary for throttling (braking) the gas flow supplied to the igniter holes.

The nozzle blank is machined from a steel bar. And its thin hole was made as follows. A blind central hole was made with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm, not reaching the exit of 1.5 mm, and the jumper was drilled with a drill with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 mm. Then, with light blows of a hammer, this hole was completely minted. Further, gradually undermining the end with a file or sanding paper, we found a section where the outlet had the required size. This is how the place was defined. Screw the nozzle onto the threaded tip of the burner tube. We put the inlet rubber-fabric hose from the cylinder reducer on the shank of the supply tube and secured it with a clamp. Having set the working pressure, gas was supplied and, after waiting for it to displace air from the hose, the nozzle (without the body and divider) was introduced into the flame of the gas burner. By grinding the end, we achieved a burner torch length of 5-6 cm. Then they screwed on external thread injector body assembled with a divider.

The flame of the burner should be even, without soot. Otherwise, regulate the amount of ejected air by turning the housing on the nozzle thread. If threaded connection very loose, it is sealed with FUM tape.

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Burnerking

or the saga of the burners. Part 1

Recently, our vocabulary has been enriched with new terms from various areas public life(petting, pechting, etc.) In order to keep up with fashion and the progressive public, I called my opus" Burnerking or the saga of burners (homemade)" .
I have long had a warm (sometimes even hot) relationship with burners. Therefore, I share information with a special feeling.
It should be noted right away that we are talking about gas, propane burners. And it is injection ones, because the oxidizer (air) is sucked into them by itself with the help of a jet of combustible gas (not to be confused with explosive gas) directed to the burner outlet. Sometimes, however, air gravity is not enough, and to increase the combustion temperature of the mixture, air is pumped by a blower. But in any case, the air is not used from a cylinder, but simply atmospheric. Therefore, only one tube with gas is suitable for this type of burner, namely from a propane cylinder.Because in order to choose the right burner for your purposes,it’s not enough just to show a photo and write something, I had to record video clips. They give a clearer picture of the operation of these devices.

mini burner

This torch was originally created for soldering filigree with very small parts, so the main focus is on reducing the diameter of the flame tongue. At that time, when this burner was made, small burners with a gas cartridge in the form of a burner handle were not yet sold. Therefore, the universal medium burner (description below) is taken as the basis and all dimensions are proportionally reduced.

Soldering small parts. Sometimes there are not enough hands to add solder and hold filigree elements :) A feature of this burner is the use of a divider. This achieves flame stability over the entire pressure range (within reasonable limits, of course), namely from 0.2 to 3 kg/cm2. The amount of air is not adjustable. It is matched with the diameter of the suction holes. If, nevertheless, you feel the urge to regulate the enrichment of the mixture, place a piece of silicone tube inside the knurled ring and, by rotating the ring, you can adjust it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is about 0.12 mm.

One of the ways to manufacture the nozzle is shown. The capillary is soldered to a screw screwed into the tube. Screw on FUM. We observe alignment. It is possible without a capillary by drilling an M3 brass screw on the machine.
And what really needs to be adjusted here is the position of the tube with the nozzle. After igniting the burner, we move the tube back and forth and, having found the optimal position, fix it with a screw.

This torch is the most versatile torch for brazing small to medium sized jewelry. (Of course, if you do not need both hands to be free :) But the adjustment can be done with the same hand that holds the burner.
It also contains a divider and therefore will never go out on its own at any normal propane pressure.
Adjusting the flame with the same hand. The silicone tube protects the place where it is hung on the hook. Ebonite handle. At correct setting the burner gives a narrow long torch.

A heat-insulating sleeve is made around the burner head. Its use allows you to warm up the head, this can slightly increase the temperature of the flame. It is made of asbestos fiber with the addition of kaolin and liquid glass.
The object to be soldered must be in the flame recovery zone. You can check this by putting a piece in the flame copper wire. In the reduction zone, the metal surface becomes shiny.

The nozzle on this burner is made in the same way as on the previous one. The matched nozzle hole diameter is 0.16 mm.
The amount of air can also be adjusted by placing a piece of silicone tube of the appropriate diameter inside the ring. But with the dimensions as in my drawing, the mixture is already quite balanced.

Medium straight burner

As you can see, I didn’t really care about the names of the burners, because the headings must be different. You have to call them something.
The next burner differs from the previous ones in the geometry of the location of the components, and the principles of operation are the same.

This burner has a softer flame, so it is better to use it for heating something (annealing wire, patination) or where the previous one cannot reach. It has the same splitter as the previous burners. And peculiarly made air suction.

There is no drawing for this burner, because the main parameters are the same as the previous burner. The head and divider, as well as the diameter of the duct, are the same. And, most importantly, the nozzle diameter is the same.

Large hand burner

This burner is similar to previous hand burners. All parameters are the same, only the power is increased. This burner can solder not only filigree, but also copper tubes refrigerators.

The only standard component in this burner is gas cock. But not a checkpoint, as in previous cases, but a corner one. Everything is attached to it. The selected diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.23 mm.

Addition 1

Today I received another letter with a request to explain where to get capillaries and how to make a nozzle in general. It was even proposed to use electroerosion. I didn't even think it would be a problem.
So, this is how I do it. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm diameter thread, metric).
So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and spread it out in an even layer. Then take the magnet and pull out all the attracting screws. You end up with screws that don't attract. The fact that they look the same as the rest should not deceive you. These are galvanized brass screws. Pictured under number 1.
If there is no M3 brass, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Here are five ways for you:
- immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But it's for pretty big holes and in the presence of a precision drill.
- drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not completely. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill with a small drill.
- drill with a large drill and then fill the hole with POS solder, and then work with it, which is much easier.
- drill with a large drill, and then solder a stainless wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw with POS solder. And then pull out the wire.
And finally, you can solder the POS with low-melting solder into drilled hole capillary of the appropriate diameter.
So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes.
Under number 2 are capillaries from instrument recorders. It is unlikely that you feel better from such advice.
But under the number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, do not groan, do not feel sorry for yourself, but gather your will into a fist and ask the doctor to give you a needle as a keepsake. He will give, he does not mind. Thus, for your sick life and your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to make injections with imported syringes, then the assortment will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example, for vaccinations.
Do not forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4.
Number 5 - included with my new one gas stove there was a whole set of injectors with different diameters holes.
And finally, 6-terminal clamps for mounting stranded electrical wires. A whole bunch of different sizes.

Supplement 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner does not work or works somehow wrong. Only working designs are laid out here, there are no theoretical ones. It means that they did not see or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I will try to explain using the example of a mini-burner. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Ensure that the supply gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg / cm2. And the nozzle hole diameter is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm.
2. The air intake holes are not closed.
3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider with a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow velocity through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are just designed to ignite the main stream. And because of the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably through them and do not allow the flame of the main stream to be blown away. This is true for all burners of this type, as shown on this page, with flame spreaders.
4. Based on the above, check if there is a gap of 2 mm between both parts of the burner head. At proper manufacture according to the drawings, this gap will be. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a broken burner. On the right, as it should be.
5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The section of the capillary from which the gas comes out, you need to choose its position already with the burner running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or up to these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

Modification heating equipment, and simply speaking - its improvement is necessary to increase work efficiency. Maintenance of solid fuel boilers, constant control for the level of firewood or coal in the furnace sometimes pushes the owners to make a decision non-standard tasks. If it becomes possible to connect the house to the gas main, but there is no desire to buy a new special boiler, they begin to invent homemade devices water heating heating equipment.

It is necessary to immediately make a reservation that any handicraft products intended for heating systems must pass a series of checks, namely:

• Obtaining a quality certificate.
• Permits from gosgortekhnadzor.
• Checking the design for compliance with quality and operation parameters.

Collecting this documentation will take a lot of time and effort. Therefore, it is much more profitable to purchase a factory gas burner for the boiler. But if the desire to assemble and test the product own production great, you can make a gas burner with your own hands.

The principle of operation of a gas burner

There are several types of burners, which may differ in design and principle of operation. For heating boilers, the following types are most often installed:

• Atmospheric - with open cam combustion.
• With forced air supply - with a closed chamber.

For self-manufacturing the 1st type of burner is suitable, since it is much simpler structurally and can be made from improvised materials.

The operation of a gas burner is based on the mixing of a dense flow natural gas And atmospheric air. The principle of operation is clearly shown in the figure:

For manufacturing you will need:

1. valve from oxygen cylinder- it will act as the base of the nozzle. You can take the common VK-74.
2. To form a narrowly directed gas jet, it is necessary to make a cap that will be screwed onto the valve. A hole is made in it and a jet is inserted (it can be from a blowtorch).
3. The injector is made from steel pipe, up to 2 mm thick. Its length is approximately 100 mm. Fastening is done by welding with steel wire. In this case, a certain distance must be observed between the cap and the nozzle for air to enter the combustion zone.
4. To activate the flame, you can install a piezoelectric element, or ignite with a match or burning paper.

Gas atmospheric burner is ready. Next, a base is made on which it will be attached for installation in the combustion chamber of the boiler. It should be borne in mind that the hole should not be completely closed - air will flow through it to maintain the combustion process.

But can it be used with the same comfort and safety as the factory one? To find out, consider all the design flaws:

• No required sensors. The most important of these is flame control. If for some reason the fire goes out, and the gas continues to flow into the nozzle, spontaneous combustion may occur. You also need a draft control sensor in the boiler, which controls the air flow.
• Temperature sensor. It indicates the boundaries temperature conditions, non-observance of which can lead to a quick failure of not only the burner, but also the boiler.
• To set up the operation of the burner under gas pressure from the central line, appropriate experience and special equipment are needed.
• The absence of a mechanism for regulating the pressure of the gas entering the burner. With a pressure drop in gas pipeline the power of the flame changes, which again leads to possible breakdowns and defects.

But not only the design of the burner can suffer from the above factors - this also applies to the boiler itself. Each model of heating equipment is designed for certain operating conditions. If the manufacturer indicates that this one can be adapted to the operation of a gas burner with forced air supply with power parameters up to 30 kW and with the installation of an additional fan to create draft, then other conditions may lead to its breakdown.

If you wish to do homemade burner for a particular boiler, you need to weigh the pros and cons. Is it worth risking expensive equipment, your safety and your loved ones?

What is a gas burner? Many are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its counterparts. In this article, we will try to understand exactly everything related to a home-made gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?”

First, I would like to point out Key Features of this design. These include:

• extremely easy to use;
• no unpleasant and harmful odors, traces of soot and the like;
• compactness that allows you to use a gas burner almost anywhere.

The homemade gas burner device includes:

• metal case;
• reducer;
• nozzle;
• fuel supply regulator;
• head;
• knot for fixing the gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass with which the mechanism gets rid of the possibility of blowing out the flame. It also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters. A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. With the help of a reducer and a tube with a valve, the level of gas supply is regulated, as well as its length, respectively. The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the last one is propane.

Type of fuel used by the burner

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, it is propane or a mixture of propane and butane that is used as fuel.

With this fuel filling a special bottle which is attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you could understand from the list of elements of the entire fixture design, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex details that you need to spend a lot of time on.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since work is being done with flammable substances), then it will certainly be completed.

As practice and many live examples show, on average, a person who has never created home-made gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, was already able to boast of a do-it-yourself burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the very interesting process. To the manufacture of the burner. The whole process of creating this unit will be described in detail below, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. Since the manufacture of the burner handle. In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to just use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The inlet tube is made entirely of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all the details. For example, the diameter of the burner inlet tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should fluctuate around 2 - 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for this purpose.

Frame

The body of the burner, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create oxygen circulation in the unit. After all, as everyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. In the total number of such holes there should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, with which work was carried out a little earlier, into the body of the gas fixture. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap, in the future, a huge flow of gas suitable for the igniter will be inhibited.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, with the help of a nozzle, fuel is supplied, namely, propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it, use special metal rod. Here you will need a 2 mm drill in order to make a blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper, we need a 4 mm drill. The holes made are hammered, and then they are undermined with the help of everyone's favorite sandpaper.

After that, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of a special rubber and fabric material. Fastening takes place with a conventional clamp using an ordinary screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly fixed, it is necessary to set optimum pressure in a balloon and apply gas from it. The air from the hose must then be completely expelled. The length of the fire at correct location and the work of all parts should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its production can only attract all priorities to itself even more strongly.