For what purposes is the chisel used? Wood chisel: a complete overview of the types of tools. Types of chisels, general characteristics
Handling with a chisel.
Consider how to sharpen a straight chisel. First you need to get a sharpening angle of 20 ° and an even flat bevel. The sharpening angle is checked by the width of the chamfer, which should be 2.5 times the thickness of the blade. So, with a web thickness of 5 mm, the chamfer width should be about 13 mm. Having obtained the required bevel width, sharpening is continued not on a grinder, but on a fine-grained bar. Sharpen with smooth movements back and forth, trying to keep your hand at the same height so as not to fill up the chamfer. The burr formed during turning is removed by several movements of the blade along the bar. They correct the chisel on the whetstone, making the same movements as when sharpening. They only correct it much longer than they sharpen it (until a smooth, shiny surface of the cutting part is obtained). It is recommended to sharpen chisels and grind their surfaces on a microcorundum bar, and to edit on a smooth leather belt using GOI paste. For this, a felt circle is also used. Narrow straight chisels move in the process of sharpening in different directions, otherwise they form a groove in the bar. They are ruled by weight. The jamb knife is sharpened and ruled in the same way as a straight chisel. A semicircular chisel is sharpened on a grindstone or bar, slowly turning it from side to side and moving it from right to left. The resulting profile hole in the bar will give a chamfer correct form. The inner surface of the chisel is sharpened with a rounded bar on the table or on weight. Rule semicircular chisels only in weight. Small chisels are sharpened on fine-grained bars and circles. For each profile, it is desirable to have separate whetstones and bars. Sharpening of tools is checked by cutting samples on a soft smooth board. In the presence of a smooth and shiny trace, sharpening is considered complete. When sharpening a carving tool, you must adhere to some rules: do not make sharp hand passes, do not press hard on the tool. Chisels should be stored suspended, for which it is recommended to nail a rail with shaped holes for the tool to a wooden shield. The tool storage area must be dry. For better preservation of the blades and blades, the chisels are lubricated with a thin layer of machine oil.
Methods of working with a chisel: a - trimming ends; b - cleaning of spikes; c - cleaning the nest under the loop; g - cutting grooves along the ruler; e, e - chamfering; g, and - processing of curved surfaces.
The structure of the chisel.
1 - canvas; 2 - cap; 3 - handle
Chiselling.
Chiseling is a type of cutting and is characterized by the fact that chip removal occurs with a constant deepening of the cutter inside the product. There are two types of chiselling: simple and shaped.
An example of a simple chiselling is the selection of a rectangular groove, an example of a shaped one is the chiselling of the fuselage cabin of a museum model. Semicircular chisels and chisels are used as a tool for chiselling. various sizes. In contrast to working with chisels, chiselling is done not by hand pressure, but with the help of a mallet.
Mallet - wooden or rubber mallet, which serves to strike the handle of the chisel. Mallets are rectangular and round, they are made from the hardest woods.
Types of chisels.
straight chisel
For wood carving, straight chisels are used, which are different in width of the canvas. Depending on the purpose, the width of the canvas can be from 3-5 mm to 55-60 mm. The most common canvases do not go beyond 7-30 mm. The thickness of the canvas can also be different - from 1 mm to 5-7 mm, depending on the width of the canvas. The thickness of the chamfer itself varies from 5 mm to 15 mm. Straight chisels, as a rule, are only single-phase. Straight chisels are used to cut indentations various shapes, leveling the plane of the surface.
The sizes are flat thick chisels.
Chisels are used for gouging nests and eyes in thin parts, cleaning nests and grooves, chamfering, deburring and other operations. Chisels are: flat thick with a chamfer and without them (Fig. 1, a); flat thin with and without chamfers and, in addition, semicircular (Fig. 1, b).
The length of flat thick chisels is 255, 265, 285 mm, width 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30, 40 and 50 mm; thickness 3 and 4 mm. The length of flat thin chisels is 265 and 285 mm; width 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 3 mm. The length of semicircular chisels is 255, 265 and 285 mm; width 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 2, 2.5 and 3 mm. 
Fig.1 Chisels: a - flat thick (with chamfers or without chamfers), b - semicircular with external and internal sharpening
Semicircular chisels
More specific for woodcarving are semicircular chisels. They are needed where you need to make a semicircular recess or smooth lines that cannot be made with straight chisels. The main difference between semicircular chisels is the width of the canvas and the radius of its circumference, as well as the size of the radius: the smaller the radius, the greater the depth of this chisel. Depending on this, semicircular chisels are divided into steep, sloping and deep, or cerasics. For a beginner carver, it is enough to have 2 semicircular chisels with a blade width of about 10-12 mm, one of which should be steep and the other sloping. A steep chisel is used to remove wood and sample recesses. A sloping chisel is necessary for cutting the contours of the figures in the ornament.
Corner chisels
The differences between the corner chisels are in the width of the canvas and the size of the corner itself. The angle of the chisel can vary from 45 to 90 degrees. The main use of corner chisels is to select the recesses and draw the outline of the original drawing along the lines of the pencil, which are quickly overwritten and become invisible during work.
Chisels -cranberries
There is another variety of chisels called cranberries. Such chisels are divided into several types: straight, semicircular and coal. They differ from other chisels in the curved shape of the canvas. Also, the difference lies in the width of the canvas. Semicircular cranberries still differ in radius, and corner cranberries - in the size of the angle. The nature and magnitude of the bend are also important. The main use of such chisels is to select wood in hard-to-reach places or at a sufficiently large depth - where it is impossible to use an ordinary chisel. For wood carving, several narrow cranberries are needed: straight, deep, semicircular and coal. Carving tools are quite rare in stores, so most craftsmen make everything they need for carving on their own. At home, the easiest way is to make a tool for woodcarving from standard industrial chisels. Semi-circular and corner chisels can be made from standard chisels with a blade width of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16 mm. For this on gas burner or blowtorch anneal the blade end of a standard chisel and then cool slowly. Now firmly clamp the resulting workpiece in a vice and saw off the very tip of the industrial chisel with a hacksaw. Then, with a round file on the workpiece canvas, make a groove required size, after which, with a regular flat file, grind the canvas on the other side.
Safety engineering.
It is forbidden:
1) Carry out chiseling with a chisel without casing rings;
2) Use a chisel instead of a chisel;
3) Cut with a chisel in the direction of the supporting hand towards you, in weight, with the part resting on the chest;
4) Process the item with a chisel on your knees;
5) Serve the chisel to another person with a sharp end;
6) Do other work while holding a chisel in your hand;
7) Leave the chisel on the edge of the table-workbench, as if they fall, you can get injured; these tools must be in a strictly designated place (in the tray), and stored in a cabinet.
Control questions:
1. How is a chisel different from a chisel?
2. Why can't you hit a chisel with a hammer?
3. What are the types of chisels?
4. What is the sharpening angle of a straight chisel?
5. What does a chisel consist of?
6. Why do you need to deviate from the line of the drawing when chiselling?
7. In what range can the angle of the corner chisel fluctuate?
8. Why can't you process a part with a chisel on your knees?
9. How should a chisel be served correctly?
10. What is the chisel used for?
Chisels different kind are used for chiselling, cutting wood and processing curved wooden surfaces. Below are the types of wood chisels and a brief description of when each of them is used.
There are stamped and forged chisels. Stamped chisels are wide, have parallel edges and require the installation of a thrust washer on the handle, which prevents the handle from stuffing onto the chisel shank upon impact. Forged chisels are characterized by a special thickening that serves as an emphasis on the handle, an emphasis and a slight thinning of the pen closer to the cutting edge. Forged chisels are considered more reliable.
Types of chisels
Various types of chisels used in various wood processing operations are shown in the figure.
In the figure, the letters indicate:
(a) - straight chisel;
(b) - a semicircular or, in other words, a grooved chisel;
(c) - a chisel called "tsarazik";
(d) - a chisel called "clukarza";
(e) - chisel-corner;
(f) – spoon incisor in the form of a ring;
(g) – spoon-shaped incisor in the form of a hook.
Straight chisels ( A in the top picture) are used to cut holes in wood.
Semicircular chisels ( b in the upper figure) choose excess wood, they do not split the tree, but only remove its necessary part. The cutting part of semicircular chisels can be different shapes. The forms of gentle chisels are shown in the figure, where a is sloping; b - the average shape of the section of the cutting part; c - steep; g - tsarazik.
Tsarazi chisels ( V on the top row). Chisels of this type are used to make narrow recesses of a semicircular shape, veins and processing the transition area of the background to the edges of the ornament. In shape, they are very similar to semicircular narrow chisels, but have a greater (more than a semicircle) bending depth. The sizes of chisels-tsarazikov depend on their specific purpose.
Cranberries ( G in the upper figure) are semicircular and curved chisels like a scoop. They are used to perform deep carving on bas-reliefs and to sample the background.
Types of chisels called corners (in the upper figure, the letter d) is used to cut different lines and veins in the form of grooves of various widths. These chisels have the shape of a blade in the form of corners with different grip widths.
Chisels spoon cutters are used when cutting spoons and making wooden utensils (letters e And and).
There are also types of chisels made in the shape of a dagger, the so-called knives. Wide and narrow knives are used when it is necessary to perform slotted thread. To perform volumetric or sculptural carving, a type of chisel called the “Bogorodsk knife” is used.
It would seem that what is special about the chisel? In this flat blade with a handle? But often without it it is not possible to get the job done. You can buy many different types of cutters, but regular chisels are, according to most craftsmen, the most versatile, affordable and easy to use. Here's what you need to know before you buy them.
What is a chisel?
Chisels usually have a steel blade 125-150 mm long and 3 to 50 mm wide with chamfered edges that allow working in tight spaces. Most chisels are sharpened at 25°, although some narrow blades are sharpened at 30° for greater strength, since carpenter's chisels are used not only for fine cutting, but also for rough work, such as removing material from sockets and even chiselling. In comparison, a scoring chisel has a long blade sharpened at a 20° angle to reduce cutting forces and is designed exclusively for manual work. Never hit it with a mallet. Wide chisels look like regular carpentry chisels, but short blades and handles make them ideal tools for maneuvering in tight spaces.
Three factors determining the choice among different brands
chisel blade
Brief excursion into metallurgy. Harder steels (high-alloy tool steels or high-speed steels) stay sharp longer (and cost more) than softer alloys (carbon steels). But mild steel is lighter. Nearly all of the chisels tested have Ol carbon tool steel blades, with Kirschen, Pfeil, Stanley Sweetheart, Ashley lies and Veritas remaining sharp the longest. Both sets of chisels with A2 high speed steel blades (Blue Spruce and Lie-Nielsen) retained sharpness of the cutting edge almost three times longer than the best samples made of carbon steel, which can justify high price. Nevertheless, the new alloy PM-V11, from which the blades of one of the Veritas sets are made, refutes the traditional for hand tool rule: "tight steel - tight sharpening." These chisels stayed sharp even a little longer than their high speed steel competitors and we were surprised by their sharpening speed which was average compared to A2 and Ol steels.
Increasing the edge life of chisels made of hard but brittle steel such as A2 or PM-V11 can be achieved by increasing the secondary bevel angle to 30° instead of the usual 25°.
The width of the chisel blade, as a rule, does not have of great importance, unless you have to clean the sockets - to trim the ends of a 6 mm socket, you need to have a chisel 6 mm wide. All sets we tested consisted of 6, 12 and 18 mm chisels, and some also included 10 mm blades. Chisels of this width are suitable for most carpentry tasks, however, it is sometimes good to have an additional 3mm blade, as well as a chisel 25mm wide or larger for cutting wide spikes or long sockets.
A thick blade with narrow bevels limits the possibilities of the chisel
Both chisels are 12mm wide, but the thick edges of the Lee Valley blade (left) make it impossible to clean the corners of the connection lugs. dovetail". Ashley lies chisel blade with wide bevels (right) is more suitable for working in tight spaces.
The flat edge of the blade, opposite the bevel, guides the cutting edge and gives stability to the tool for better control, which is why we appreciated the sets of chisels that are sold with perfectly flat backs - Lie-Nielsen, Blue Spruce, Pfeil and both Veritas sets. As for other sets, it took from several minutes, and sometimes even an hour, to align the backs using various manual and mechanical devices.
Chisel handle
Good chisels can last for decades, so take your time choosing a hand tool. If possible, try it out before buying. If you have large hands or problems with wrist joints, it is better to choose chisels with large diameter handles, like Stanley Bailey, Narex, Irwin Marples, Pfeil, Kirschen and Robert Sorby Sheaf River. For those with small hands, Blue Spruce, Lie-Nielsen, Stanley Sweetheart, Traditional Woodworker, and Veritas chisels work best. (In about half of the sets, narrow chisels have slightly thinner and shorter handles than wide blades, giving more control for delicate work.) The shape of the handle, and the way you hold it for various tasks, is just as important as it. dimensions. A variety of shapes of handles is presented in the photographs.
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When chiseling sockets and spikes, we hold the handle firmly in our fist for maximum control. First of all, try holding the chisel in this way. |
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And with light trimming with a chisel, for example, in the corners of the eyes, when there is no need for a mallet, one hand usually directs the blade, and the other pushes the handle. Will a chisel be comfortable for you for such work? |
Find out also the features of fastening the blade to the handle. The two most common methods are shown here - with the so-called "skirt" and shank. The two kits we tested were skirted (Lie-Nielsen and Stanley Sweetheart). Such handles sit tightly in conical recesses; when loosened, they can be easily corrected with a light blow of a mallet, and this method is preferable if the chisel works as a lever. But making them is more difficult, so be prepared to pay more. Shank chisels are cheaper and tend to have more comfortable handles, but with this method of attachment, the handle can easily split as the shank acts like a wedge inside it. The metal ferrule helps prevent splitting, but does not guarantee it. For the main work in the workshop, it is advisable to purchase inexpensive chisels, such as the Stanley Fat Max. Their plastic handles with a metal butt plate can easily withstand a hammer blow, and the short blades dull relatively quickly. These tools will be useful on the construction site, as well as when making hobby crafts and scraping off dried glue or paint.
The carpenter's chisels (top and center) have a simple blade attachment, so they can be worked with hand force or light blows with a mallet, however, a hammer can split the handle. The shank of an inexpensive carpenter's chisel (below) usually goes through the handle and ends with a metal butt plate that can withstand hammer and mallet blows.
Although during testing, none plastic handle did not crack, we liked the chisels with wooden handles(mostly for aesthetic reasons), especially those made from hard and dense woods such as maple, bubingo, elm, hornbeam, boxwood or ash. Handles made of softer beech wood (Bailey and Narex) usually have metal rings to prevent splitting when struck with a mallet.
Chisel price
You can buy chisels one by one when you need them. But often a set of several chisels of the most popular sizes is cheaper than buying the same chisels one at a time. We divided the seventeen sets we tested into three price groups: under $90, between $130 and $230, and over $275. All of them cope with the main tasks in the same way. But be prepared for the fact that cheap chisels will have to be compared with more expensive ones made of high quality steel.
So, which chisels to buy?
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Ashley iles, chisel set, $155 These chisels are already sharpened, have thin edges with wide bevels and retain their sharpness well. We liked the bubingo wood handles, which proved to be comfortable for people with smaller hands as well. But the edges of the brass rings at the point of transition from the handle to the blade seemed too sharp to us. There are also sets of 4 and 11 chisels. This set comes without a box or roll. |
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Blue spruce, chisel set, $445 These chisels are handmade in Oregon and have proven to be some of the best in testing. Corrugated maple handles, impregnated with acrylic resin, are not afraid of mallet blows, but are too thin and slippery. The side bevels of the blade are wide, sharp-edged, and they are great for making dovetail joints, but I had to blunt them a bit so as not to cut my hands. Premium chisels made of A2 high speed steel, the highest quality, look great and feel sacrilegious to use an electric grinder to sharpen them or hit them with a mallet. Looking at the price, it was expected to see the set packed in a case or a leather roll, however, neither was available. |
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Irwin marples, chisel set, $70 A new series of chisels of a well-known brand has a handle with three steps in diameter, which is convenient for working with a mallet, but it is less convenient to manipulate the tool when manually trimming. The blades are easy to sharpen and cut well, but dull quickly, which is to be expected from inexpensive chisels. Also available is a set of three chisels and a mallet. |
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Lee valley, chisel set, $130 Their blades sharpen easily and retain their sharpness relatively well, but several chisels had to level the plane of the back within half an hour. They also have the thickest edges of any of our testers, and we found their ribbed handles uncomfortable. However, for this price you get a wide range of sizes. Also available in sets of 5 chisels ($93). Both sets without the wooden case will cost $20 less. |
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Lie-nielsen, set of chisels, $275. One of two sets of chisels with a "skirt" handle attachment, and if it gets loose, you can easily fit the knob of the handle to the tapered recess of the "skirt", and then hit it with a mallet a couple of times to keep the handle firmly. Like Blue Spruce, Lie-Nielsen chisels are handmade in Maine. They are excellent, and their price cannot be considered too high compared to other brands also made of high alloy steel. Also on sale are sets of 7 and 9 chisels and a leather roll to store them. |
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Narex, set of chisels, $69. These tools did not impress us with their quality, but overall, this is a good set for reasonable price. Some of us found the tinted beech handles to be rough and poorly balanced. The backs of the blades require alignment of the plane, but they are easily sharpened. Available in sets of 3, 4 and 10 chisels. They clearly lack a wooden case or roll. |
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Pfeil, set of chisels, $205. These Swiss chisels were perfectly sharp with a mirror-polished bevel and micro-bevel. They are easy to sharpen and are the most durable of the 01 carbon steel blades tested. We liked their grippy, faceted elm wood handles, but the transition to tapering at the ring could have been smoother. |
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Robert sorby, octagon-handled chisel set, $175 The hard boxwood handles hold up well to hammer blows, but many of us found them uncomfortable, and the metal clip rings on the three chisels weakened during testing. The blades were the shortest among the rest, and they also dulled faster than others. |
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Robert sorby sheaf river chisel set, traditional handle $150, tapered handle $200. The blades are made from the same steel as the octagonal handled Sorby chisels, and they also dull quickly. Ash handles seemed to us more convenient than boxwood ones, but opinions were divided almost equally about the shape. The tapered handles have a smooth transition to the ring and blade, while the traditional ones were 32mm longer, which is an advantage when hand cutting. |
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Stanley sweetheart, chisel set, $230 They are replicas of the Sweetheart brand tools of the early 20th century and are similar to the Lie-Nielsen chisels in size, shape and hornbeam handles. However, their blades are made of 01 carbon tool steel, so they dull faster. Nevertheless, they impressed us high quality, convenience, a wide range of sizes and a leather roll. |
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Stanley bailey, chisel set, $80 Like the Narex brand, Bailey chisels have large beech handles that are not well balanced, with flat edges on both sides and large metal rings. The cutting edges do not remain sharp for long, but sharpen quickly. The set comes with an excellent leather roll. |
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Traditional woodworker, chisel set, $137. Comfortable hornbeam handles make light work with those German tools, if sharpened well. The backs of the blades are almost flat and highly polished, but they need to be sharpened frequently. Also available in sets of 11 chisels. |
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Kirschen, set of chisels, $175. They, like Traditional Woodworker chisels, have similar (but less comfortable) hornbeam handles and polished blades that stay sharper than other carbon steel chisels. But the backs of the blades require alignment of the plane, and the handles are covered with a thick layer of varnish, which interferes with a reliable grip. Kits are supplied in wooden box or leather roll. Also available in sets of 4 chisels. |
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Veritas chisel set, $295 in 01 carbon steel, $360 in pm-v11 alloy. These sets are similar in every way, except for one thing - the material from which the blades are made. The PM-V11 alloy received the highest score in testing, but if the high price makes it out of your budget, we recommend looking at the same chisels with 01 carbon steel blades, which leave behind most other blades made of the same material. Blade profile with wide chamfers makes possible job in the tightest corners. The handles of the chisels are machined from heat-treated maple wood, which acquires as a result Brown color and increased strength. |
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Woodriver, chisel set, $84. We consider this set to be the best among inexpensive chisels. Bubingo wood handles are convenient for any work, including with a mallet. Metal clip rings provide a smooth transition from handle to blade. When we leveled the backs and sharpened everything cutting edges, these chisels have proven to work as well as some of the more expensive brands. |
Veritas chisels made from PM-V11 proved to be the most durable, surpassing even those made from A2 high speed steel, and they are quite easy to sharpen, so they came out on top in the tests. For the quality of this level, you will have to fork out - $ 360 for a set of five chisels.
If that's more than you were willing to spend, we recommend mid-priced sets like Pfeil or Stanley Sweetheart. The $205 Pfeil chisels are flat-backed, superbly sharpened and stay sharp for a long time. The Stanley Sweetheart set costs $25 more, but for that price you get two more chisels, including a 3mm one. And these sets are not affordable for you? Then we advise you to take a set of 6 WoodRiver chisels for $84. Although you will have to align their backs yourself, this operation is done only once, but you will have a solid and convenient set of chisels in running sizes.
Handling with a chisel.
Consider how to sharpen a straight chisel. First you need to get a sharpening angle of 20 ° and an even flat bevel. The sharpening angle is checked by the width of the chamfer, which should be 2.5 times the thickness of the blade. So, with a web thickness of 5 mm, the chamfer width should be about 13 mm. Having obtained the required bevel width, sharpening is continued not on a grinder, but on a fine-grained bar. Sharpen with smooth movements back and forth, trying to keep your hand at the same height so as not to fill up the chamfer. The burr formed during turning is removed by several movements of the blade along the bar. They correct the chisel on the whetstone, making the same movements as when sharpening. They only correct it much longer than they sharpen it (until a smooth, shiny surface of the cutting part is obtained). It is recommended to sharpen chisels and grind their surfaces on a microcorundum bar, and to edit on a smooth leather belt using GOI paste. For this, a felt circle is also used. Narrow straight chisels move in the process of sharpening in different directions, otherwise they form a groove in the bar. They are ruled by weight. The jamb knife is sharpened and ruled in the same way as a straight chisel. A semicircular chisel is sharpened on a grindstone or bar, slowly turning it from side to side and moving it from right to left. The resulting profile hole in the bar will give the chamfer the correct shape. The inner surface of the chisel is sharpened with a rounded bar on the table or on weight. Rule semicircular chisels only in weight. Small chisels are sharpened on fine-grained bars and circles. For each profile, it is desirable to have separate whetstones and bars. Sharpening of tools is checked by cutting samples on a soft smooth board. In the presence of a smooth and shiny trace, sharpening is considered complete. When sharpening a carving tool, you must adhere to some rules: do not make sharp hand passes, do not press hard on the tool. Chisels should be stored suspended, for which it is recommended to nail a rail with shaped holes for the tool to a wooden shield. The tool storage area must be dry. For better preservation of the blades and blades, the chisels are lubricated with a thin layer of machine oil.
Methods of working with a chisel: a - trimming ends; b - cleaning of spikes; c - cleaning the nest under the loop; g - cutting grooves along the ruler; e, e - chamfering; g, and - processing of curved surfaces.
The structure of the chisel.
1 - canvas; 2 - cap; 3 - handle
Chiselling.
Chiseling is a type of cutting and is characterized by the fact that chip removal occurs with a constant deepening of the cutter inside the product. There are two types of chiselling: simple and shaped.
An example of a simple chiselling is the selection of a rectangular groove, an example of a shaped one is the chiselling of the fuselage cabin of a museum model. As a tool for chiselling, semicircular chisels and chisels of various sizes are used. In contrast to working with chisels, chiselling is done not by hand pressure, but with the help of a mallet.
A mallet is a wooden or rubber mallet used to strike the handle of a chisel. Mallets are rectangular and round, they are made from the hardest woods.
Types of chisels.
straight chisel
For wood carving, straight chisels are used, which are different in width of the canvas. Depending on the purpose, the width of the canvas can be from 3-5 mm to 55-60 mm. The most common canvases do not go beyond 7-30 mm. The thickness of the canvas can also be different - from 1 mm to 5-7 mm, depending on the width of the canvas. The thickness of the chamfer itself varies from 5 mm to 15 mm. Straight chisels, as a rule, are only single-phase. Straight chisels are used for cutting recesses of various shapes, leveling the surface plane.
The sizes are flat thick chisels.
Chisels are used for gouging nests and eyes in thin parts, cleaning nests and grooves, chamfering, deburring and other operations. Chisels are: flat thick with a chamfer and without them (Fig. 1, a); flat thin with and without chamfers and, in addition, semicircular (Fig. 1, b).
The length of flat thick chisels is 255, 265, 285 mm, width 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30, 40 and 50 mm; thickness 3 and 4 mm. The length of flat thin chisels is 265 and 285 mm; width 12, 15, 18, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 3 mm. The length of semicircular chisels is 255, 265 and 285 mm; width 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 25, 30 and 40 mm; thickness 2, 2.5 and 3 mm.
Fig.1 Chisels: a - flat thick (with chamfers or without chamfers), b - semicircular with external and internal sharpening
Semicircular chisels
More specific for woodcarving are semicircular chisels. They are needed where you need to make a semicircular recess or smooth lines that cannot be made with straight chisels. The main difference between semicircular chisels is the width of the canvas and the radius of its circumference, as well as the size of the radius: the smaller the radius, the greater the depth of this chisel. Depending on this, semicircular chisels are divided into steep, sloping and deep, or cerasics. For a beginner carver, it is enough to have 2 semicircular chisels with a blade width of about 10-12 mm, one of which should be steep and the other sloping. A steep chisel is used to remove wood and sample recesses. A sloping chisel is necessary for cutting the contours of the figures in the ornament.
Corner chisels
The differences between the corner chisels are in the width of the canvas and the size of the corner itself. The angle of the chisel can vary from 45 to 90 degrees. The main use of corner chisels is to select the recesses and draw the outline of the original drawing along the lines of the pencil, which are quickly overwritten and become invisible during work.
Chisels -cranberries
There is another variety of chisels called cranberries. Such chisels are divided into several types: straight, semicircular and coal. They differ from other chisels in the curved shape of the canvas. Also, the difference lies in the width of the canvas. Semicircular cranberries still differ in radius, and corner cranberries - in the size of the angle. The nature and magnitude of the bend are also important. The main use of such chisels is to select wood in hard-to-reach places or at a sufficiently large depth - where it is impossible to use a conventional chisel. For wood carving, several narrow cranberries are needed: straight, deep, semicircular and coal. Carving tools are quite rare in stores, so most craftsmen make everything they need for carving on their own. At home, the easiest way is to make a tool for woodcarving from standard industrial chisels. Semi-circular and corner chisels can be made from standard chisels with a blade width of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 16 mm. To do this, on a gas burner or a blowtorch, anneal the end of the web of a standard chisel, and then slowly cool. Now firmly clamp the resulting workpiece in a vice and saw off the very tip of the industrial chisel with a hacksaw. Then, with a round file on the workpiece canvas, make a groove of the required size, after which, with a regular flat file, grind the canvas on the other side.
Safety engineering.
It is forbidden:
1) Carry out chiseling with a chisel without casing rings;
2) Use a chisel instead of a chisel;
3) Cut with a chisel in the direction of the supporting hand towards you, in weight, with the part resting on the chest;
4) Process the item with a chisel on your knees;
5) Serve the chisel to another person with a sharp end;
6) Do other work while holding a chisel in your hand;
7) Leave the chisel on the edge of the table-workbench, as if they fall, you can get injured; these tools must be in a strictly designated place (in the tray), and stored in a cabinet.
Control questions:
1. How is a chisel different from a chisel?
2. Why can't you hit a chisel with a hammer?
3. What are the types of chisels?
4. What is the sharpening angle of a straight chisel?
5. What does a chisel consist of?
6. Why do you need to deviate from the line of the drawing when chiselling?
7. In what range can the angle of the corner chisel fluctuate?
8. Why can't you process a part with a chisel on your knees?
9. How should a chisel be served correctly?
10. What is the chisel used for?
Joinery and carpentry is a very ancient skill. Quality furniture from wood, various decorations and objects for a long time serve their master. But to produce all this from the material bestowed by nature, tools are needed. Consider chisels for woodcarving. What they are, what their types are, how they are sharpened, read in the article.
This is a tool that carpenters and joiners use in their work. The method of working with a chisel is manual. cutting tool make small indentations in the wood, clean the grooves. A chisel is used if you need to make a relief or contour carving. The tool consists of the following parts:
- Blades made of steel. The end edge or blade is sharpened on one side.
- A handle that is fixed in the shank area or is tightly driven into a conical socket located at the opposite end.
Sharpening chisels is hard work. If possible, it is better to do this using a sharpening device where the tool is placed. To fix it tightly, the screws are tightened. Sharpening the tool is carried out in the same way as without using a tool.
