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Dovetail connection with your own hands. Dovetail stud joints Machine dovetail connection Dimensions

Detachable fastening of parts using the “dovetail” method is carried out by installing a trapezoidal spike, cut at the edges of another element, arranged on one side of the workpiece, into the groove. The type of connection of parts is used in many designs that require the creation of a rigid one-piece frame: small arms, furniture production, mechanical engineering, wooden capital construction.

After the drawing is drawn up, the dimensions of the dovetail are selected individually. The master proceeds to perform preparatory operations, during which the frame and sled take part. The material used in the process of solving the problem with loaded nodes can be steel, cast iron, bronze. In other cases, connection types can be made from light non-ferrous metals and plastics. The surface of the product is processed with a profile cutter with finishing with a scraper or a polishing disc.

Before you make a dovetail with your own hands, you should create a drawing, the dimensions of which must withstand the allowable operational loads. When making a cut, it is necessary to correctly select the angle of inclination of the sides of the trapezoid, the standard value of which is 45 0, 55 0 and 60 0. The connection by the selected method is applied in the system:

canopy of small arms;
metalworking machine;
optical device;
"In the paw" and "frying pan" in wooden housing construction.

The positive properties of the technology include high structural strength. The application of the method allows you to fasten elements without nails, screws, self-tapping screws and chops.

Application of the method with wood

The wooden spike and the mounting groove must have an identical shape and be connected into a tight tight knot. The dovetail connection, the drawing of which is designed for different products, helps to form a T-shaped and angular fastening of boards, beams or logs without overlaps at installation sites internal partitions. The technology of assembling wooden structures makes it possible to use for interior partitions construction material smaller diameter. If necessary, protection from wind and drafts, the corner joints of the structure of the capital structure are sealed with jute fibers.

A classic example of using the connection of elements is a drawer of a furniture set. The electric carpentry equipment used in the construction of the tenon and groove system for a hand router allows the interlacing of tenon elements using the natural resistance of the articulation to the force applied to the front of the product during extension.

The connection, the drawing of which is drawn up for each item individually, can be performed in different ways.

Most of the craftsmen working in furniture production and housing construction prefer the method of end-to-end connection of joints because of the decorativeness of the repeating pattern. Preparation of elements is carried out on a milling machine with a special device.

Marking the connecting spikes

The preparation of the material for connecting the tongue and groove with your own hands according to the template is carried out after marking the “tails” with a thickness gauge, pencil or marker on the sides and edges of the part with sockets or partitions. The dimensions and number of elements depend on the type of material, the width of the board and the way the spikes are arranged. To give decorative look connection lines, the spikes must be of the same size, located on the same distance from each other.

Before starting work on the machine, the material is equipped with markings across the workpiece with a deviation of 6 mm from the edges. The rest of the board must be divided into an even number of spikes, measure 3 mm from each side of the marks, draw a marking line perpendicular to the end. Using a stencil or bevel, apply the contours of the slope of the spikes for the dovetail joints.

Cutting trapezoidal spikes

For the formation connecting elements the box blank is placed in a vise so that one side of the spikes is vertical. On the side face of each spike, cuts are made that do not reach the shoulder line, the workpiece is reinstalled, and other side faces are processed in a similar way. After that, the part is fixed horizontally, the lateral waste is cut off at the level of the shoulders. Excess wood between the spikes must be removed with an openwork saw.

Marking and sawing out the landing nest

For accurate marking of the seat, the workpiece is placed on carpenter's table in the grip of vertical position, the end of the board is rubbed with chalk to get an imprint on the part with the spikes already cut out. With the help of a special device, the edges, the line of the shoulders of the lateral side are aligned in the form of spikes and the end of the workpieces with sockets.

After finishing preparatory work you can begin to form a groove at the corners of the workpiece next to the shoulder line in accordance with the spike markings. The cut, for which the thorn groove cutter for a hand router is used, should be made in the waste part of the board so that the groove is placed parallel to the marking line. Excess wood between the partitions of the nest is removed with an openwork saw, cleaned with a chisel or chisel with a beveled edge. The movement of the tool should be directed from the edges to the center.

Assembly of connecting joints

For the production of products, the connection of parts of which is carried out by the dovetail method, almost all types of wood, plywood, and plastic are used. A feature of the method is non-separable technology with the use of fasteners (carpenter's glue). Checking the accuracy and fitting parts is carried out after:

preliminary "dry" assembly of the final product;
removal of excess material;
cleaning or sanding tight spots.

The adhesive is applied to the adjoining sides of two pieces of wood. For a tight connection of the parts of the structure, a hammer and a wooden gasket are used to protect the product from accidental damage.

After tapping the joint along the entire line, it is necessary to remove excess glue, the product is sent to dry, followed by cleaning with a jointer in the direction from the edge to the middle.

The shape and solution of the angle of cut

Standard bonding angles should not be sharp or obtuse. The large slope of the milling cut promotes the formation of short fibers in the corner. Insufficient slope of the groove reduces the strength of the connection of the elements. To solve the problem, experts recommend using bevel markings, templates or stencils. For hardwood, it is necessary to choose the optimal cut slope, which should be 1/8, for soft wood, the slope is milled by 1/6.

Decorative connection of elements

A neatly made grooved dovetail can serve as an additional decoration for household and office furniture. Design options for furniture design allow you to emphasize the beauty of wood and appreciate the skill of a specialist. The selected type of assembly of the product corresponds to the indicators of the standard proportions of the structure.

A feature of the "dovetail" is the possibility of cutting a log or beam into a half-tree in the shape of a trapezoid with corner fastening of parts. IN wooden construction often used is the method of joining beams using the “radical tenon” method, when two elements are spliced with a rectangular tenon and a groove of a similar shape. Sawing parts for connection is carried out with a cutter according to drawings, diagrams and dimensions.

From different kind connections of two removable parts to each other in mechanics and the wood industry, dovetail fastening is the strongest and most reliable. In woodworking, this type of connection or lock is used in all forms of production.

Ways to use the dovetail mount:

furniture manufacture;
connecting workpieces to each other;
connection of bars;
fastening timber in the construction of houses.

With large-scale production, the design of this lock is quickly and successfully performed by a dovetail cutter. At home, in the absence of milling equipment, it is easy to make a dovetail with your own hands. At the same time, the ability to produce this design with high quality is considered a high-class craftsmanship.

This article provides detailed description the manufacturing process, with a step-by-step listing of all the techniques, so that a master of any level understands how to make a dovetail.

Preparation for work

Before starting, prepare the following materials and tools.

materials

Name	Type and dimensions, mm	Quantity
Wooden bars - blanks	40x40x500	2
Wood glue	—	1

Tools

The list of tools that are used in the manufacture:

a circular saw;
belt sander;
manual eccentric sander;
Miter saw;
band-saw;
manual frezer;
workbench with clamping vise;
straight chisel;
jigsaw manual;
finger cutter 10 mm;
clamp;
joiner's square;
ruler:
pencil;
file;
sandpaper grit 100.

Description of the manufacturing process

The design of this carpentry lock is a tight joint of two parts. A protrusion is made at the end of one bar V-shape resembling a dovetail (where the name comes from). On the second bar, a cut is made according to the shape of this protrusion. The thickness of this spike can be the full width, and the floor of the tree. The spike and cut are made at an angle of 10-12 degrees.

This article describes the manufacturing process of this carpentry connection to the floor of the tree. The type of product that should be obtained as a result is shown in the figure.

By using circular saw cut out 2 identical bars.
They are processed on a grinder.
Trim the ends of the bars with a miter saw.

Advice! In the event that several connections are required, it is recommended to make a dovetail template from a thin, dense material, which increases productivity. In the described example, a single production of this design is given.

When the protrusion is ready, a slot must be made under it on the second workpiece. To do this, markup is made on the second blank, using the first as a template. It is necessary to make the markup as accurately as possible, since any play between the parts is not allowed. The design will be unreliable. For this reason, the top lines are drawn with a cutting knife. The middle is marked with a pencil.

Next, you have to choose in the bar, according to the marks made with a jigsaw, a slot for a spike. This can be done in two ways. In the first case, the slot is selected using a chisel, cutters, file and sandpaper. Here it is necessary to show extreme accuracy, because. needs to be perfect flat surface for joining and gluing parts.

If a hand router is available, then it is much easier to make a dovetail with a router, since in this case it is much easier to get a perfect result than manually.

In order to complete the connection of the dovetail, and to ensure a tight and reliable connection of the parts, on the workpiece 2, using a chisel, carefully trim the edges of the sides, periodically trying on the spike and trying to insert it into the slot. The spike should be inserted tightly, but without excessive force.

Important! After the spike has entered the intended place, the parts should be separated. In order to do this, it is necessary to clamp the workpiece 2 in a vise, and with the help of wooden hammer carefully knock out the bar with the spike from the slot, as shown in the figure. If you try to do it by hand, you can break the spike.

Finally, wood glue is applied to the surface of both parts to be joined. The parts are connected to each other and pressed tightly with a clamp.

After a certain time, necessary for the glue to harden, the part is cleaned of adhesive residue with the help of a chisel. Manual eccentric grinder bring the surface of the finished structure to an ideal state. The structure is ready.

Conclusion

Practice shows that the dovetail connection is the most common reliable wooden lock in carpentry. When properly manufactured and bonded securely, it is capable of withstanding heavy tensile loads, shock and vibration. It has been used since the construction wooden houses. In the old days, this castle, common in carpentry and carpentry, with the name dovetail, was called a frying pan.

At present, this type of wooden castle is ubiquitous in all countries, in any kind of wooden connections.

Video

Now you are not limited by the width of your milling template.

A device for milling open dovetail joints is usually used to work with boards with a width of no more than 305 mm. But this does not mean that you cannot make such connections on boards of any width. Simply release the comb template from the base that limits the width of the blanks and attach directly to the board. Here's how it's done.

Setting

You will need two router bits at once: one for the dovetail taper cutter and one for the straight dovetail cutter. This eliminates the need to change cutters and adjust the depth. Also prepare a couple of test blanks, the width and thickness of which exactly match the details of your project. You need to make dovetails on one board (board with tails) and spikes on the other (board with spikes).

Remove the comb template from the fixture and free it from all stops and brackets. Make two spacers 76 mm wide from the scraps along the length of the template. Their thickness should be such that they go into the cutouts on both edges of the template by 13 mm. Attach one spacer with screws to the underside of the template and set the other aside. Draw a base line on inside boards with "tails". To do this, put the board with spikes on the end, aligning it with the end and edges of the board with “tails”. With a marking knife, mark the thickness of the spiked board on the tail board.

Clamp the test pieces on opposite sides of the spacer with clamps, inside out and firmly against the underside of the comb. (photo A). Flip this assembly upside down, place the second spacer between the blanks, and then secure the whole thing in a vise or on the front of the workbench with the tails board facing you. (photo B).

The edge of the board with the "tails" should be located exactly in the center of the cutout. Use a square to align the edges of both blanks so that they match in the finished joint.

Attach the blanks with the template to a thick beam, fixed with clamps on a workbench. Sandpaper on the front edge of the beam prevents the displacement of parts.

Now mark with crosses the sections of the material that you are going to remove. For variable pitch tenon joints (such as in the Bed Chest project), do not pass the cutter through all of the notches in the comb. For example, for chest walls 400 mm wide, we marked the first two cutouts, then skipped one and put a mark under the fourth cutout (photo C). Skipped two more cuts, marked the seventh, then missed three and marked the eleventh cut.

Finally, adjust the cutter overhang on each router 0.5-0.8 mm below the base line marked on the tails. (photo C).

Mark the material to be removed between the tails. Then adjust the reach of both cutters so that the spikes and "tails" protrude slightly above the surface of the shield. Sand them flush after assembly.

Only guide the cutter into the comb notches located above the marks. Route slowly to reduce chipping, but not too slowly to avoid burns.

Form a connection

Cut out the tails first (photoD). Then take another router and use a straight cutter to make passes in each notch of the tenon comb. You need to work carefully, since when milling spikes it is especially important that the sole of the router fits snugly against the template. The tilt of the cutter leads to irregularities at the edges of the tenons.

Loosen the upper clamps and move the template so that the formed spikes are located in the middle of the cutouts (photo E).(You may need to use a mallet to lightly tap the spacer with it.) Mark all the spikes opposite the "tails". Tighten the clamps again and make sure that the workpieces are firmly pressed against the template and their edges are aligned. Then remove the marked spikes with a cutter. Depending on the template used, a small burr in the form of thin chips may remain on the workpiece, which can be broken off, or you can move the comb again a little to clean the gap between the remaining spikes with a cutter again.

Mark the spikes to be removed by putting crosses on those that are located opposite the "tails". Leave only the spikes located opposite the eyes.

Having shifted the template and fixed the blanks again, mark the rest of the "tails".

After stripping the spikes, loosen the top clamp again and move the template so that the untouched edge of the board with the “tails” is in the middle of the comb cutout (photoF). Put marks to complete the formation of "tails". (Only one lug remains to be made on our shields.) Then repeat the whole process to complete the connection.

Now for a precise fit.

Try to make a connection. Easy assembly and perfect tightness can be achieved by moving the comb forward or backward relative to the spacer. If the connection is too tight, move the template towards the "tails". If too loose, move it towards the spikes. Saw off the edges of your trial pieces and try again until you get the best result.

When you can neatly connect the test pieces, mill the connections on the project details. Remember that at each end of the comb template are processed opposite corners boxes. With the tail board facing you, the connections for the front left and back right corners should start from the left end of the template. The connections for the front right and back left corners are made at the right end of the template. Then the "tails" will be located on the front and back walls chest. Before you start milling the parts of your project, temporarily hold them together with clamps and mark each part and every corner to avoid confusion.

Making a dovetail joint with the old manual method is not only an attempt to touch the past. Such a connection, made beautifully, will give your work an accentuated uniqueness.

Practice and patience will help you achieve high level the craftsmanship required to make dovetail joints by hand. If your first attempt isn't perfect, don't worry. Everyone in their practice goes through a similar stage of making connections before they acquire the necessary skills.

Start by preparing the tool shown in the photo -( mallet A, chisels B, combined or joiner's square C, marking thicknesser D, adjustable bevel E and fine-toothed saw F. It is also desirable to have a marking knife, ruler and pencil.)

Practice on a medium soft wood such as poplar and make pieces of the same width and thickness. With experience gained, you can try to make a connection on blanks. different thickness. Temporarily mark the sides of the workpieces (front, back, inside, outside, and side) and edges (top, bottom) for the correct orientation of the joints.

First, cut out the spikes and use them to mark the dovetails. In some cases, it makes sense to start by sawing out the dovetails. We offer a detailed description of all steps of this process.

Setting the angle on the bevel

There is an easy way to determine the angle for correct manufacture connections. Place a square on the straight edge of the trim and draw a line about 250 mm long in the middle at an angle of 90° to the edge (figure).

Put marks on this line at a distance of 150 and 200 mm from the edge. Now mark the edge 25mm to the right and left of the line. Connect the marks "25" with the marks "150" and "200" with lines. Install the bevel on the smaller triangle for softwood and the larger triangle for hardwood, as shown in the photo.

Traditionally, the angle used in softwood dovetail joints is steeper than the hardwood dovetail because softwood is more susceptible to buckling and shifting when subjected to a load. But the difference is small: 81° (ratio 1:b) - for soft rocks versus 83° (ratio 1:8) - for hard ones.

Marking spikes

Spikes always start from the edges of the part, and markings for them are applied to the ends, while dovetails are marked on the plate. Determine the number and placement of spikes as you see fit. For uniform distribution calculate how many spikes should be made between the extreme half spikes.

Divide the distance between the extreme half-studs by this number and then mark the centers of the studs at regular intervals at the end of the workpiece from the inside. Determine the width of the narrow edge of the tenons and mark the edge of the workpiece. Avoid making spikes with a narrow edge width of less than 6 mm - this space will not be enough for further work with dovetails.

Using a marking thicknesser with a fixed width that is 0.4 mm greater than the thickness of the workpieces, draw a line on both faces and edges of the workpieces from the ends, where spikes and later dovetails will be made.

Both faces of the joint will be sanded after assembly. Using a bevel with a marking knife, mark the spikes on the ends of the workpiece, as shown in the photo on the left.

With the help of a square, draw straight lines from the ends of the marking lines at the end to the lines drawn earlier with a thicknesser, as shown in the photo on the right. Shade the areas to be removed.

Sawing thorns

With a thin blade saw (such as a Japanese-style hacksaw), make cuts along the marking lines to the lines marked with a thicknesser on both sides. Hold the saw blade strictly perpendicular to the butt and cut slowly to avoid being pulled to the side by the grain of the wood. A small square, set close to the canvas, will help maintain the 90 ° angle until experience allows you to do without it.

Remove excess material with a chisel

With the widest chisel, which is placed between adjacent spikes at the place of their closest approach, make shallow limiting cuts along the line drawn by the thicknesser, as shown in the upper photo on the left. Do not go too deep into the wood - 3 mm is enough to start. Your goal is a flat, straight line.

Carefully remove excess material by lightly tapping the mallet to guide the chisel from the butt side. Repeat these operations until you cut the material to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece. Creating a small V-notch will make it easier to chip off excess wood when removing wood between the tenons. Turn the workpiece over, fix it with a clamp and continue working on the other side.

Cleaning cutouts between spikes

Clean the areas between the spikes with a chisel. To simplify the assembly of the connection, make a small recess at the end in the cutouts between the spikes, as shown in the photo. Now the spikes are ready. Do not subject them to any processing until you make "dovetails"

Dovetail markings

The finished spikes will serve as a template for marking the dovetails. Holding the front blank vertically on the inside of the side board, at its end, align the wide part of the spikes with the marking line drawn by the thicknesser on the second board.

Mark the dovetails with a knife. When the markup is clearly visible, use a square and a knife to draw cut lines at the ends perpendicular to the plate. If necessary, shade the areas to be removed.

Carefully cut out the dovetails

Make cuts at an angle. Unlike other workpieces, where the cuts usually go along the marking line, in this case you need to cut next to it, creating a margin for the possibility of fine-tuning the connection.

Saw and trim shoulders

Starting sawing with an allowance, cut out the shoulders at the edges of the joint. Then clean this area with a chisel until it matches the marking lines.

Removing material between dovetails

This operation is similar to trimming the studs, except that you need to cut the left allowance, approaching the marking line, for an accurate fit. We do not recommend making spikes that are too narrow: they do not leave room for working with a chisel between the dovetails.

Connection fitting

Working slowly and precisely, remove the excess with a chisel almost to the marking line left by the knife. Make trial attempts to connect while you work.

Trim the thinnest layer of material from the dovetails at each fit until the joint comes together with light taps with a mallet. Don't change the spikes.

Gaining experience may take some time, but you will notice the difference between a joint that you can admire and one that has to be patched.

According to the magazine "Wood-Master"

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STUD JOINTS "DOVEL TAIL"

The dovetail stud joints are not only visually attractive, but also very durable. The ability to properly cut such spikes is a sign of skill that comes with experience.

When assembling furniture, fasteners are now widely used - screws, dowels, various ties. However, spike connections, including those on dovetail spikes, do not finally give up their positions. They are quite reliable and at the same time beautiful. On such connections it is possible to fasten, for example, side walls cabinet furniture with covers. Breaking a dovetail joint by stretching is not easy. Therefore, it is often used in the manufacture of drawers. But we should not forget that the dovetail connection is resistant to such a load in only one direction.

Chipboard parts are not suitable for dovetail joints: this material is too loose. In one way or another, plywood, boards or furniture panels are suitable here.

Dovetail spike shape

If you look at the connection from above, you can clearly see that the "dovetails" are fan-shaped spikes at the end of one of the parts. The sides of the spikes are bevelled inward with a slope ranging from 1:5 - for "rough", but strong connections used when rallying softwood parts and furniture panels, up to 1:8 - for hardwood parts. The connection on the latter looks more attractive. And you need to know that with a smaller slope, the connection under load can disperse, and with a larger one, the spikes can collapse.

In the finished connection, the “teeth” that engage with the spikes are clearly visible. The slope of the spikes must exactly match the slope of the "teeth".

There should always be "teeth" (and not halves of spikes) in the connection along the edges -

this prevents buckling of the connected parts.

Another factor influencing appearance connections, - the distance between the "dovetails". In principle, the following rule applies: the wider the dovetails (thorns) or the greater the distance between them, the better. However, there is a limit to everything, besides, products come in different sizes (for example, a chest and a box), and one should not forget about the strength of the connection.

Marking spikes

The preparation of parts begins with trimming (their thickness does not have to match), and then mark
the position of the spikes and "teeth". It is better for a novice master to give a small (1-2 mm) allowance in length.

Malka is used for marking. To adjust it to the angle of the slope of the spikes, for example 1:6, two mutually perpendicular lines are drawn on paper and from the intersection point they are divided into six equal parts. Connect the sixth mark on one line with the first mark on the other. The slope of the resulting diagonal will be 1:6. According to this sketch, Malka is exposed.

At both edges, parts with spikes outline the width of the extreme "teeth" and draw lines through these points parallel to the edges. Next to the detail diagonally
impose a tape measure or ruler and turn it until the size between the lines is divided without a trace by the desired number of spikes. These points are marked on the diagonal, and then, using a thickness gauge, they are transferred to the end of the part. As a result of these simple constructions, the positions of the centers of the gaps between the spikes are determined.

On both sides of the centers found, lay off the same segment (in our example, 3 mm). The distance between the ends of the segments will be equal to the minimum gap between the spikes. From these points, with the help of a bevel, finally, the spikes themselves are marked. The height of the spikes is marked with a thickness gauge placed on a thick

the tire of the part with “teeth”. Marking is done on both sides of the part.

If the part has a length allowance, it should be taken into account when marking. In this case, the length of the spikes will be slightly longer than required. Later, when the parts are connected, the excess is removed with an end planer.

When marking up, all parts with spikes are marked with some conventional signs to avoid confusion.

thorn cutting

For cutting spikes and “teeth”, special tenon saws are used. When using a conventional fine-toothed rip saw, it will require additional preparation, in particular, to reduce the set of teeth (especially if the saw is new). To do this, the saw blade is placed with its entire surface on the touchstone and one or two times it is easily passed over it. The same is repeated, turning the canvas over to the other side.

When cutting dovetail spikes, the part is clamped in a vise. If there are two such parts (for example, side walls drawer), spikes can be cut on both at once.

Start cutting along the marking lines by tilting the saw back and at the same time guiding it with your fingernail thumb. When the cutting line is "caught", the saw is leveled and work continues until the part is sawn to the full height of the tenon (to the horizontal mark). Under no circumstances should this label be crossed.

Now you can remove the material between the notches that form the tenons. This operation is performed with a chisel. Having selected wood on one side up to half the thickness of the part, it is turned over and processed in the same way on the other side.

Next, proceed to cutting the "teeth". The part with “teeth” is clamped in a vise, the part with sawn spikes is placed on the end and fixed. Then the saw is inserted into the cuts and the end part of the part with “teeth” is cut. Finally, the “teeth” are cut in the same way as the “dovetails”. And in this case, sawing should not be done along the marked line, but in such a way that the teeth of the saw lightly touch it from the outside. In conclusion, the material between the "teeth" is removed with a chisel.

Before connecting the parts, it is necessary to eliminate possible irregularities and carefully bevel the inner edge on both sides of each tenon (especially on the outer ones). This will facilitate the operation of connecting parts, and in finished product such a bevel will not be noticeable.

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