A light wooden mallet - a mallet or simply a do-it-yourself mallet. Reverse hammer: we consider the principle of operation and make a tool with our own hands
Durable, capable of withstanding a large impact force and at the same time rubberized on the outside of the hammer, it is easy to do it yourself. The mold for casting it is done elementarily, and the materials you will need will be quite affordable. Step by step process making a concrete hammer with your own hands is outlined and clearly demonstrated below.
materials
Before you make a hammer with your own hands, make sure you have:
- Lego constructor;
- mortar for mixing concrete;
- solution epoxy resin;
- wooden handle;
- sharp knife or screwdriver;
- wax for polishing wood;
- chisels;
- sandpaper;
- gloves
- corner.
Step 1. From the Lego constructor, assemble a mold for casting the impact part of the hammer. The constructor is good in that its parts fit as tightly as possible to each other, preventing the solution from flowing out through the cracks. The product can be made in any size. IN this case I needed a small hammer. You can change it at your own discretion.
Step 2. Place a wooden handle in the center of the assembled hammer mold. Be sure to make sure that the part of the future tool is strong and not rotten. For the handle, choose strong woods, in this master class it was walnut.
Step 3. Dilute the concrete solution in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and pour it into the mold. Make sure that the handle continues to stand strictly upright during the process. Correct it if necessary. Seal the solution with your hands, after putting on gloves. Make sure you don't form air pockets. The solution must be packed tightly.
Step 4. After a few hours, disassemble the constructor. Due smooth surface plastic, the process will go without special efforts, but if you doubt that it can be separated from concrete, grease the mold before casting vegetable oil. Give the material some more time to dry.
Step 5. Dilute the epoxy solution. It must be tenacious. Gently apply it with a pencil on the concrete part of the hammer. Leave the product until the materials are completely dry. This process will take about a day.
All wooden handles hand tool, I make from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a blank of a rectangular bar, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is enough. Measure the inner throat of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a bar with sides of approximately 35x25. On one side of the bar, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Build a rectangle around this center with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Drive the ribs and planes of the bar with a planer from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn on the end. Chamfer the corners and round them off. Using sandpaper, fit the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it comes into tension.
The lines on the end of the handle that we drew to build the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches on them, so that the notches do not reach the edge of the handle closer than 5 mm, otherwise the wedges can split the handle.
We drive in wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. I use resinous pine for a wooden wedge, it sticks well to a birch handle.
None paints and varnishes I do not use for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean engine oil, with drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even when left in the rain, the hand does not freeze from it in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this staining color of birch is obtained from oil.
The hammer in the house is the first tool. And he will hammer a nail, and crack a nut, and straighten the wire. It is the father of all equipment and all tools. The development of hammer production is characterized by high level progress, so for each activity you can easily find the most effective tool. If you are doing locksmith work, then you will need a locksmith's hammer. No master can do without this percussion instrument.
The purpose of the hammer
Mankind has known and used a hammer for a very long time - even at the dawn of existence. This is the very first tool of labor, as well as the weapon of a primitive man in combination. People, as they developed, improved and changed the hammer. The materials of hammers of ancient times corresponded to the development of people and changed in the following sequence: bone - wood - bronze.
The design of the hammer today has not changed: the butt plate, the striker with a striker and the handle. The striker and the handle are interconnected through a hole that is present in the body, and a wedge hammered into the handle. The tail may be various shapes. The body is usually made of steel, but can be made of copper, wood, lead, and rubber. The handle is most often made of wood, metal or plastic.
There are many varieties of hammers. Doctors and architects, cooks and musicians, not to mention carpenters, locksmiths, mechanics and builders, use hammers in their work. The most famous hammers are copper, sledgehammers, straightening, carpentry, mason's and locksmith's hammers.
It is the last of them that the metalwork hammer with a round head is the most common and versatile. Its purpose is to extend, direct and increase the effort of the human hand, delivering an energetic blow to the right point, helping another tool - a chisel, chisel, center punch.
It is convenient for them to make blows in a variety of work: bending, chopping, riveting, straightening, punching holes, hammering and flattening. A metalwork hammer is used to hammer nails, break concrete or ceramic tiles, shape the metal tubes.
The construction of a hammer hammer
The locksmith's hammer differs from the usual one in that it has 2 different strikers in the design - a flat one, which is intended for driving nails, and a tapering one, which is convenient for breaking different objects and surfaces. The tool has a slightly convex, not knocked down and not oblique surface of the striker, without work hardening, bevels, burrs, potholes and cracks.
The price of locksmith hammers with a square striker is cheaper, so this variety has received in locksmith practice wide use for light work. And round-faced hammers have one advantage, which is that the striker significantly outweighs the rear, which provides greater accuracy and impact force.
Impact force through locksmith's hammer depends on the severity of the working part and the movement of the tool. Given speed regulated by a person, and the severity of the working element - by the manufacturer. The impact part of the tool is made of heat-treated steel to ensure high strength and hardness. Therefore, the material used to create hammers is varied.
The impact part of the hammer is usually mounted on an ergonomic handle made of fiberglass or wood. For the handle, mainly hardwood (hornbeam, beech, dogwood or birch) is used and have a length of at least 250 millimeters for hammers. Locksmith hammers have a weight of 0.4 - 0.8 kilograms.
Making a locksmith's hammer
The machinist's hammer has one vulnerable spot- the section of the hammer handle, which is located under the striker. When driving studs, nails, wedges, problems arise, especially on initial stage their fasteners, craftsmen often miss their target and usually hit the nail not with a striker, but with a given section of the handle.
As a result, chips and gouges appear on the handle. Hammers very often become loose, flying off the handle, or break. And the purchase of a locksmith's hammer does not guarantee the opposite, since locksmith's hammers do not have a special tongue for protection, as, for example, in axes.
Certainly in outlets and hardware stores present hammers with plastic or metal handles, which are completely devoid of the problem of fitting the head, however, locksmith hammers with wooden handles are traditional. In addition, they sit more securely in the hand and are warmer to the touch.
Therefore, today we will make a metalwork hammer with our own hands. wooden handle. Remember that it is enough to firmly and securely fix the handle on it once, and it will work unquestioningly.
Hammer handle
So, let's start by making a handle for a metalwork hammer. First, let's talk about the dimensions: the handle should have an oval section, about 250 - 350 millimeters long, tapering smoothly towards the end on which the tool head will fit. For the manufacture of the handle, the wood of beech, oak, birch, maple, hornbeam, ash or mountain ash is best suited. It is absolutely unacceptable to make handles from easily prickly wood: spruce, pine, alder or aspen.
Most often, handles for metalwork hammers are made of birch. To do this, you will need a small board, from which you need to carve the shape of the handle according to technological map making a metalwork hammer, after which it is good to sand with a construction skin.
If you plan the handle from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, well-ventilated and shady place without fail. Do not try to dry the wood with artificial heat sources: heaters, electric fireplaces and radiators, because with such drying, the wood will inevitably crack and lose its strength.
If the wooden handle for a locksmith's hammer is not dried enough, then it will dry out over time and decrease in volume. And so the head will hang on it, constantly trying to fly off the hammer handle. To make the handle even smoother, it is recommended to cover it with a special furniture varnish. Everything, the handle for the locksmith's hammer is ready, you can proceed to the next step.
Connecting the head to the handle
After manufacturing the handle, it is necessary to insert it with a thin end into the hole in the tool head. It is considered ideal to fit the head of a metalwork hammer on the handle with a certain effort or “with an interference fit”, as the craftsmen used to say.
If the handle turned out to be thick, you should first process its thin end with a rasp, and then - sandpaper. The end of the handle of the locksmith's hammer should eventually be a gentle cone. Place the head of the machinist's hammer on the handle, make sure it is perpendicular to the axis of the handle.
Hold the handle strictly vertically, with the head of the hammer up, strike it with the back wide end on a hard surface in the direction from top to bottom. The head of the locksmith's hammer with each blow is slowly but surely mounted on the expanding handle, hardening more and more on it. With the following strokes, the immobility of the tool head indicates that it has firmly “sat down” on the handle.
Hammer handle wedge
There are several methods for making a machinist's hammer, but the most reliable is to use wedges. You can make wedges for a locksmith's hammer with your own hands. Prepare a place for a wedge of wood. So that it does not go to the side and does not spoil the handle, make a notch with a narrow chisel, which has a depth of close to 5 millimeters, at an angle of 30 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the locksmith's hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade that is approximately 3 mm thick, approximately 15 mm wide and 30 - 50 mm long. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end must be made blunt.
After you drive a wooden wedge into the handle of a metalwork hammer by 15-20 millimeters, saw off with a hacksaw with a fine tooth the upper part of the handle that sticks out of the hammer head, so that it protrudes at least 2-3 millimeters beyond the head .
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal of the same shape and size as the wedge from wood, but make it shorter - no more than 20 millimeters long. Take a sheet of iron that has a thickness of about half a centimeter. Sharpen the wedge on a special machine and drive it into the handle at the same sharp angle to the longitudinal axis of the hammer at 30 degrees, but from the center line on the other side.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the hammer handle, the work on the manufacture of a metalwork hammer can be considered completed. Then it is worth placing the metalwork hammer for 5 hours in water so that the wood swells. When the tree dries, the metalwork hammer will no longer stagger.
Using a machinist's hammer
Hammering a nail into a board with a hammer is not such a big deal. easy occupation, although it seems so at first glance. If you made a bad hammer, then the surface will break through under it and dents will occur, and this is not the most pleasant outcome. To drive a nail, make sure it goes into the work surface. Finish the job with 2-3 hits.
In order for the connection to be strong, the nail must enter at least one third into the working surface. To make the connection rigid, drive the nails towards each other at an angle. The board will not split if the nail has a diameter of no more than one-fourth of its thickness. If you have to hammer a nail into a thin plank, first bite off its tip with wire cutters, which can tear and split the wood. In wet tree it is easier to drive a nail with a metal hammer than in a dry one.
When driving a nail into dry wood, hold its middle with pliers so that it does not bend with the resistance of dry wood. Boards that are about 10-12 centimeters wide are fastened with one nail, wide boards are nailed with two nails. If you need to drive multiple nails, then stagger them in multiple rows rather than in a straight line. A fairly convenient substitute for nailing human fingers is wooden clothespin or a narrow strip of paper that is folded in half.
I made this hammer a couple of years ago. It was necessary because I had to tap every paving slabs. It softens the blows, something like rubber mallet. Only a hammer made of rubber does not last long. Since it is not made from rubber, as it should be, at least with the addition of it.
Of course, you can’t brag about the design, but nevertheless, the quality of such a hammer is good.
The old mallet (pictured) has fallen into disrepair! The wood has already cracked and dried out from long use. It needed to be replaced with a new one. I drew a model of the future mallet on the computer, printed the picture on paper and set to work.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
For this project, we will need several pieces of wood. This a great opportunity use unnecessary waste from wood. Many of my acquaintances do not give waste a chance to be useful, they just end up either in the trash or burned like firewood.
I am not a master carpenter, but I think anyone can make such a hammer.
You will need:
- Saw;
- Joiner's glue;
- Some clips, clamps
I used a circular saw. I think that with it you can cut pieces of wood the fastest. After cutting, we take sandpaper and clean the sides.
Step 2: Cut Out
Everyone chooses the size of the mallet at their own discretion. This is not critical. The design of the hammer can also be done by everyone independently and according to their tastes.
I made my handle length 350mm. Handle width 40 mm. at one end and at the other 30 mm. To achieve such dimensions can be easily when there is a table saw. WITH hand saw It will be a little difficult, but it's real.
Step 3: Collect
We place the handle exactly in the middle of one of the 120x90 mm pieces, so that 25 mm is from the thickest side of the end of the handle. It should peek out a little from the common head of the hammer. Now we glue all the cut off bars with each other (Seen in the photo). Don't forget to take out the hammer handle, it shouldn't stick with the hammer.
Fix the hammer with clamps for better gluing of all parts of the hammer. In places where the glue has flowed out, remove it. We also clean the glue in the hole where the hammer handle enters. Before complete drying, it is necessary to leave our structure for at least 30 minutes. Something like the layers of a sandwich and seasonings flowing from it. It will, of course, look terrible, but magic will happen in the next steps.
Step 4: Processing the Hammer
Now that you have your hammer (head) and everything glued together, it's time to make it even prettier. I made cuts on the hammer handle in order to cut out small indentations after. This will give the convenience of lying the handle in your hand, and then a pleasant work with a mallet.
Take a pen and cut out the recesses mentioned above. We process the corners of the handle, making them more sloping (rounded). If your handle is too long, cut it off.
After the work done, insert the handle into the hammer.
Step 5: Trimming and Finishing
We process with sandpaper all the bumps on the handle, for a smoother surface and avoid further splinters in the hand. I drilled a hole at the end of the handle so that in the future it would be possible to store it hanging.
Step 6: Finished mallet hammer
If you want to stick a pen to your head, then you can do so, but I did not do this, it will not go anywhere with me anyway.
I look forward to your comments, dear friends!
In this article, we will show you how to create a creative hammer handle in the form of a hand.
Hello!
This time, an old Soviet hammer without a handle turned up under my arm, which had been lying idle in my workshop for a long time.
The Internet is full of pictures with the anatomical structure of bones. We choose a more informative and simple drawing, estimate the dimensions of the hammer and the approximate size of the bones and cut the reinforcement.
In my work, I took 12 mm as a basis. round fittings for the handle and 10 mm. for fingers.
From the tool I needed only:
- welding machine.
I used a semi-automatic, but an inverter for RDS, which may well be in yours, will also fit here!
The workflow is pretty straightforward, so instead of tons of text, I'll just go through the chapters and mark the process in a photo.
I made the entire selection of excess on the bones with a sweeping circle of the grinder. 
For the hammer, I made it from 2 pieces of reinforcement. The photo shows that I noted the length of the handle + the segment on which later I will weld the bones + the seat for the hammer itself.
The relief of the pen I betrayed in the same way welding machine and tapping a little on , it turned out to be a kind of hammer handle in garage conditions.
And now, when all the parts are individually ready: hammer, fingers, handle; We start assembling and welding. 
After the hammer was ready, I decided to oxidize and rust it a little - so to speak, to give atmospheric work.
I poured water over the hammer from the sprayer, from which the hammer darkened and got a more interesting look.
Well, you can see the result and the full process in the video!
