DIY miniature Tesla coil. Tesla coil: what is it, why is it needed and how to create it yourself at home. Components and principle of operation
Nikola Tesla is truly the greatest inventor of all time. He created almost all modern world. Without his inventions, we would not have known about electric current what we know now.
One of Tesla's striking and amazing inventions is his coil or transformer. Which perfectly demonstrates the transfer of energy at a distance.
To experiment, to please and surprise your friends, you can build a simple but fully functional prototype at home. This does not require a large number of scarce parts and a lot of time.
To make a Tesla Coil you will need:
- Can of CDs.
- A piece of polypropylene tubing.
- Switch.
- Transistor 2n2222 (possible domestic type kt815, kt817, kt805, etc.).
- Resistor 20-60 kOhm.
- Wires.
- Wire 0.08-0.3 mm.
- 9V battery or other 6-15V source.
Tools: stationery knife, hot glue gun, awl, scissors and maybe another tool that is in almost every home.
DIY Tesla Coil Making
First of all, we need to cut off a piece of polypropylene tube about 12-20 centimeters long. Any pipe diameter, take what is at hand.
Let's take thin wire. We fix one end with electrical tape and begin to wind it tightly, coil to coil, until we close the entire tube, leaving 1 centimeter from the edge. As we wind, we fix the second end of the wire with electrical tape, too. You can use hot glue, but in this case you have to wait a bit.
We take a case from disks and make three holes for the wire. See photo.
We cut a groove for the switch with which we will turn our Tesla coil on and off.
To make it look better, I painted the box with spray paint.
Insert the switch. We glue the coil wound on the tube with hot glue in the middle of the can.
Pass the lower end of the wire through the hole.
We take the wire thicker. We will make a power coil out of it.
Wrap around the tube with wire. We do not close, at some distance. Coil 4-5 turns.
Both ends of the resulting coil are passed into the holes.
Let's build the schema:
I glued the transistor on hot glue to the soda cap, which I also glued on hot glue. Yes, in general, we fix all the elements, including wires and a battery, with this glue.
Next, we make an electrode. We take a ping-pong ball, golf ball or other small ball and wrap it with aluminum foil. Cut off the excess with scissors.
The Tesla coil, which bears the name of the inventor, is an oscillating circuit that consists of two coils. It allows you to get a current of high denomination and frequency.
So what do we need:
- switch;
- 22 kOhm resistor;
- transistor 2N2222A;
- crown connector;
- PVC pipe 8.5 cm long and 2 cm in diameter;
- 9 volt crown;
- copper wire with a cross section of 0.5 mm;
- a piece of laminate;
- glue gun;
- soldering iron;
- a small piece of wire 15 cm long.
First of all, we must wind the copper wire around the PVC tube, retreating from the edges by about 0.5 cm. In order to prevent the wire from unwinding at first, the author of the idea advises fixing its end with paper tape.
After the wire is wound, we also fix the second end with paper tape so that the wire does not wind up. Cut the end of the wire with wire cutters. The coil is ready.
Now you need to glue it to the base of a piece of laminate with a glue gun.
On a piece of laminate, we also glue a switch, a transistor and a crown connector.
Let's move on to wiring. We solder the lower copper wire coming from the coil to the middle contact on the transistor.
We also solder a resistor to the middle contact.
We need a piece of wire for the secondary winding. We wrap it twice around the coil and fix both ends of the wire with hot glue on the base.
We solder the upper end of the secondary winding wire to the free end of the resistor.
We solder the second end of the wire of the secondary winding to the right contact on the transistor. To facilitate the work, you can use short lengths of wiring.
Next, the contacts from the resistor, together with the wire from the secondary winding, are soldered to the contact from the switch.
In this article, you will learn how to make a Tesla coil using medium-sized transistors with your own hands.
Step 1: Danger!
Unlike other high voltage experiments, Tesla coils can be very dangerous. If you get electrocuted by streamers, you won't feel pain, but your circulation and nervous system may be seriously harmed. Do not touch them under any circumstances!
In addition, I am not responsible for any damage caused to your health.
This is not to say that you shouldn't work with high voltage, although if this is your first high voltage project, it's best to start with good transformer circuits. microwave oven and don't risk your health!
Step 2: Required Materials
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The total cost of assembly at home was about 1500 rubles, since I already had wood, bottles, PVC and glue.
secondary coil:
- PVC pipe 38mm (the longer the better)
- About 90 meters 0.5mm copper wire
- 4cm PVC screw (see picture)
- 5 cm threaded metal flange
- Enamel in a can
- Round, smooth metal object for discharge
Base:
- Various pieces of wood
- Long bolts, nuts and washers
Primary Coil:
- About 3m thin copper tube
Capacitors:
- 6 glass bottles
- Table salt
- Oil (I used canola oil. Mineral oil is preferred as it doesn't mold, but I didn't have any).
- Lots of aluminum foil
- High voltage power supply such as neon, oil or other transformer that delivers at least 9 kV about 30 mA.
Step 3: Secondary Coil
Fix the pipe to wrap around one end of the wire. Slowly and carefully start winding the coil, being careful not to layer the wires or leave gaps. This step is the most difficult and tedious part, but after spending a lot of time, you will get a great coil. About every 20 turns, wrap a ring of masking tape around the coil to keep the coil from untangling. When finished, secure both sides of the spool with thick tape and apply 2-3 coats of enamel.
Hints:
- I built a rig to wind my reel which consisted of a 3rpm microwave motor and a ball bearing.
- Use a small piece of wood with a notch (as shown) to straighten the wire and tighten the coil.
Step 4: Preparing the Base and Winding the Primary Coil
Align the metal stand to the center of the base and drill holes for the bolts. Screw the bolts upside down. This will allow you to place the base for the primary on top of it. Then put the base on the bolts. Take a copper tube and twist it into a cone shape (not as shown in the pictures). Then install the resulting spiral on the base.
Additionally, 2 supports were added, on which I put the winding.
I forgot to add how to make a spark gap! It's just two bolts wooden box, and they can be customized, etc. (See last photo)
Step 5: Capacitors
I decided to go the cheaper route and build the capacitors myself. The easiest way is to create capacitors using salt water, oil and aluminum foil. Wrap the bottle in foil and fill it with water. Try to make the same amount of water in each bottle as this will help keep the power stable.
The maximum amount of salt you can put in water is 0.359g/ml, but you end up with a lot of salt so you can reduce the amount considerably (I used 5 grams per bottle). Just make sure you use the same amount of salt and water in each bottle. Now, little by little, pour a few ml of oil into the bottle. Punch a hole in the top of the cover and insert a long wire into it. You now have one fully functioning capacitor, make 5 more of the same.
Optional: To place the bottles in the correct order, find some kind of metal box.
If you are using a neon transformer, 6 bottles will not be enough. Do 8-12.
Step 6: Putting All the Elements Together
Connect everything according to the attached diagram. The secondary ground cannot be grounded to the primary ground or your apartment will burn down.
Specifications of my coils:
- 599 turns on the secondary
- 6.5 turns on primary
Step 7: Launch!
Take the mini Tesla coil outside for the first run, as it's actually not safe to run anything this powerful indoors. Turn the switch and enjoy the light show! My 9kV 30mA neon transformer makes the coil emit 15cm sparks. See below:
There are a few things that I understand I need to change about the Tesla Coil design. First of all, you need to redo the primary winding. It should be wrapped more tightly and with big amount turns. Besides, I want to assemble a better spark gap. I already have a new coil in my plans and it will be about two meters high!
The Tesla transformer was invented by the famous inventor, engineer, physicist, Nikola Tesla. The device is a resonant transformer that generates high voltage high frequency. In 1896, on September 22, Nikola Tesla patented his invention as "Apparatus for the production of electrical currents of high frequency and potential." With this device he tried to transmit electrical energy without wires over long distances. In 1891, Nikola Tesla demonstrated to the world demonstrative experiments on the transfer of energy from one coil to another. His device spewed lightning and made fluorescent lamps glow in the hands of astonished spectators. Through the transmission of high voltage high frequency current, the scientist dreamed of providing free electricity to any building, a private house and other objects. But unfortunately, due to high energy consumption and low efficiency, wide application The Tesla coil was never found. Despite this, radio amateurs from different parts of the world collect small Tesla coils for fun and experimentation.
Tesla coils are also used for entertainment events and Tesla shows. In 1987, the Soviet radio engineer Vladimir Ilyich Brovin invented an electromagnetic oscillation generator, named after him "Brovin's kacher", used as an element of an electromagnetic compass operating on a single transistor. I suggest you collect operating model Tesla coils or Brovin's kacher do-it-yourself from improvised materials.
List of radio components for assembling the Tesla Coil:
- Enameled wire PETV-2 diameter 0.2 mm
- Copper wire in PVC insulation diameter 2.2 mm
- Tuba from silicone sealant
- Foil textolite 200x110 mm
- Resistors 2.2K, 500R
- Capacitor 1mF
- LEDs 3 volt 2 pcs
- Radiator 100x60x10 mm
- Voltage regulator L7812CV or KR142EN8B
- Fan 12 volt from the computer
- Banana connector 2 pcs
- Pipe copper diameter 8 mm 130 cm
- Transistor MJE13006, 13007, 13008, 13009 from Soviet KT805, KT819 and similar
The Tesla coil consists of two windings. The primary winding L1 contains 2.5 turns of copper wire in PVC insulation with a diameter of 2.2 mm. The secondary winding L2 contains 350 turns in varnish insulation with a diameter of 0.2 mm.
The frame for the secondary winding L2 is a silicone sealant tube. Having previously removed the remnants of the sealant, cut off a part of the tube 110 mm long. Stepping back 20 mm from the bottom and top, wind 350 turns of copper wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. The wire can be obtained from the primary winding of any old small-sized 220V transformer, for example, from a Chinese radio. The coil is wound in one layer turn to turn, as tightly as possible. The ends of the wire should be passed into the inside of the frame through a preliminary drilled holes. For reliability, cover the finished coil a couple of times with nitro-lacquer. Insert a sharply sharpened metal rod into the piston, solder the upper winding output to it and fix it with hot glue. Then insert the piston into the coil frame. Cut off a threaded ring from the spout, you will get a nut, with which you can easily fix the coil on the textolite board by screwing the resulting nut onto the thread of the outlet of the tube. Drill a hole in the bottom of the frame for the LED and the second winding output.
I used an MJE13009 transistor in my coil. Transistors MJE13006, 13007, 13008, 13009 from the Soviet KT805, KT819 and other similar ones are also suitable. Be sure to place the transistor on the radiator, during operation it will heat up very much and therefore I suggest installing a fan and slightly improving the circuit.
Since, to power the coil, a voltage of more than 12 volts is required. The Tesla coil develops maximum power at a supply voltage of 30 volts. And since the fan is designed for 12 volts, then the voltage regulator L7812CV or the Soviet analogue KR142EN8B should be added to the circuit. Well, to make the coil look more modern and attract attention, let's add a couple of LEDs of blue color. One LED illuminates the coil from the inside, and the second illuminates the coil from below. The diagram will look like this.
Place all components of the Tesla coil on the printed circuit board. If you do not want to make a printed circuit board, simply place all the parts of the Tesla coil on a piece of MDF or corrugated cardboard from a paper box and connect them together using the surface mounting method.
Finished printed circuit board will look like this. One LED is soldered in the center, it illuminates the space under printed circuit board. Make the legs out of four blind nuts screwed onto the screws.
The second LED is soldered under the coil, it will illuminate it from the inside.
Be sure to smear the transistor and voltage regulator with thermal paste and place it on a 100x60x10 mm radiator. Voltage regulator follows.
The primary winding should be wound in the same direction as the secondary winding. That is, if the L2 coil was wound clockwise, then the L1 coil must also be wound clockwise. The frequency of coil L1 must match the frequency of coil L2. To achieve resonance, the L1 coil needs to be tuned a little. We do this, on a frame with a diameter of 80 mm we wind 5 turns of bare copper wire with a diameter of 2.2 mm. We solder a flexible wire to the lower output of the coil L1, fasten a flexible wire to the upper output so that it can be moved.
Turn on the power, bring the neon lamp to the coil. If it does not glow, then it is necessary to swap the conclusions of the coil L1. Next, empirically select the vertical position of the coil L1 and the number of turns. We move the wire screwed to the upper output of the coil down, we achieve the maximum distance at which the neon lamp will light up, this will be the optimal range of the Tesla coil. As a result, you should get, like I have 2.5 turns. After the experiments, we make the L1 coil from a wire in PVC insulation and solder it in place.
We enjoy the results of our labors... After turning on the power, a streamer 15 mm long appears, a neon light starts to glow in the hands.
So, they filmed the Star Wars saga ... Here it is, the secret of the Jedai sword ...
In an automobile lamp, a small plasma appears emanating from the incandescent filament to the glass bulb of the lamp.
To significantly increase the power of the Tesla coil, I recommend making a torroid from a copper tube with a diameter of 8 mm. Ring diameter 130 mm. As a torroid, you can use aluminum foil crumpled into a ball, a metal jar, a radiator from a computer and other unnecessary, bulky items.
After installing the torroid, the power of the coil increased significantly. From copper wire located next to the torroid, a streamer 15 mm long appears.
And even LED...
And this is the plasma that occurs in a car light bulb when it is next to a torroid.
To make a torroid or not, it's up to you. I just showed and told you about how I made a Tesla coil or a Brovin kacher on one transistor, with my own hands and about what I did. My coil produces high voltage high frequency current according to the laws of physics. Thanks to Nikola Tesla and Vladimir Ilyich Brovin for their huge contribution to science!
Friends, I wish you good luck and Have a good mood! See you in new articles!
I, like everyone else, have different hobbies, which have recently been called hobbies, and I want to tell you about one of them today.
Since school I have been fond of radio electronics and assembly different schemes and although now it has become part of the profession, but sometimes you want to collect something just for the soul.
This is exactly the assembly kit I bought on aliexpress, the kit allows you to assemble a mini Tesla coil, the price of the kit is $ 6.51. And with it you can spend several interesting experiences from a school physics course.
The kit comes in a small package and consists of very few parts, so it is easy to assemble and takes very little time.
The kit comes with quite a few detailed instructions unfortunately on Chinese, but the scheme is quite simple, and finished device does not require configuration.
The only thing you really need to know from the circuit is the coil supply voltage, which can be in the range of 12 to 30 volts at up to 1.5 amps.
The board of the device is made quite qualitatively, all the elements are signed, so you can assemble it without even looking at the diagram.
Creative mess before assembly.
We put as many as 4 resistors on the board and solder them.
Then we solder the remaining parts and before installing the transistors, do not forget to lubricate them with thermal paste, because they heat up very, very strongly.
On the coil, the manufacturer prudently pasted several marks with arrows, one of them shows the direction of winding the wire in the coil, and the second, as it turned out, indicates how the coil should be placed on the board itself.
But I didn't have the patience to figure it out. Therefore, the coil was safely soldered upside down, although it must be said that this did not particularly affect the performance.
Nothing is provided for mounting the coil in the design itself, so I had to use a small amount of hot melt adhesive.
Also included with the kit is a small piece of thick wire in insulation, it is needed in order to make the primary winding of our transformer. When winding the primary, it is very important that its direction coincides with the direction of winding the coil itself, for this reason the manufacturer placed an arrow on the coil that indicates where the primary winding should be wound.
Finished construction.
If everything was assembled correctly, then after turning on the LEDs will start to glow and a small blue spark may appear on the tip of the coil wire (or it may not appear, everything will depend on the supply voltage that will be applied to the circuit).
Included with the kit, the manufacturer will carefully put a small neon light bulb which you can check the operation of the circuit.
It does not need to be soldered anywhere, but with the help of this sweetie, you can conduct the first experiment with our assembled casket. If it is brought in a working coil, it begins to glow.
A slightly more spectacular trick can be done if you bring a discharge lamp to the coil.
As you can see in the photo, the lamp also begins to glow, while the brightness of the glow depends on the distance to the coil and the voltage applied to the circuit.
During operation, the coil consumes 0.6-0.8 amperes, so the transistors heat up very quickly despite installed radiators, the average continuous operating time does not exceed 5-7 minutes, then you need to turn off the coil and let the transistors cool down.
After experimenting with light bulbs, I decided to try what would happen when interacting with more unusual things.
First in line was a gas discharge indicator lamp (just an old radio lamp will do) mounted directly into the coil.
The effect turned out to be very beautiful, I especially liked how the lightning inside the lamp moves around the bulb.
The next in line were the old Soviet neon light bulbs, they are larger than the one that the seller put in and therefore glow more beautifully. Well, just a spark.
This is where my main mistake showed itself, the fact is that the manufacturer did not just mark with a sticker how exactly to install the coil, he also left different lengths of wiring around the edges of the coil, and if in all other cases it was not critical, then when playing games with sparks, the short conductor began to melt very quickly and had to be carefully unwound from the coil.
Well, as always, a few conclusions, as for me it’s enough interesting homemade for beginner radio amateurs or for the first assembly together with a child, the assembly process itself takes so little time that it does not have time to get bored, but the result is a rather impressive device, although it does not bring much benefit.
And finally, I want to note that the manufacturer strongly advises against touching the switched-on coil with bare hands and catching discharges from it on the skin surface, because as a result you can get a rather severe burn and irritation of the nerves, and here I probably agree with the manufacturer, because safety must always remain at the first place.
