How to install a thermostat on a heating radiator. How to install a temperature controller on a battery

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Each person perceives the level of comfort in their apartment differently. With standard air temperatures in winter, one may freeze, and the other may languish from the "heat" and open windows. You can quickly and effectively solve the problem of controlling and regulating heat in an apartment by installing a thermostat for a heating battery in each room.

Thermostat for a radiator: what is it?

A thermostat, or thermostat for a heating battery, is a small device. Its main function is to control the air temperature in the room. This is achieved by regulating the intensity of the coolant flow in the battery. These devices do not work on, so it is useless to install them for this purpose.

Thermostats are products of simple design, consisting of two main elements: a valve (valve) and a thermostatic head (thermoelement).

  1. The thermal valve is brass body, which houses the through hole, locking mechanism and seat. During operation of the thermostat, the cone (locking mechanism) is set in motion: it rises and falls. With these actions, he provides a passage hot water to the radiator and regulates the heating of the latter.
  2. The thermal head, or thermostatic element, is the part that drives the locking mechanism. It consists of a movable sealed cylinder - a bellows, which contains a heat agent. Its role is played by a special liquid or gas.

The efficiency of the thermostat depends on the speed of reaction of the contents of the bellows to a change in the air temperature in the room.

The principle of operation of the thermostat

Installing a thermostat on heating radiators allows you to control and maintain the temperature in the room in the desired parameters. At normal operation instrument error can be no more than 1 degree. This is achieved thanks to a well-functioning system of interaction of internal mechanisms.

When the air temperature in the apartment rises, the thermal liquid or gas inside the bellows expands and increases the size of the cylinder. It exerts pressure on the piston, which drives the thermal valve locking mechanism, which in turn blocks the flow of hot water. As a result, it cools down, which reduces the air temperature in the room. In the process of cooling the thermostatic filler, the cylinder acquires its original dimensions. The piston raises the cone-constipation, the circulation of the coolant resumes, the radiator begins to warm up, raising the air temperature in the room.

Consumers who wish to install thermostats on their batteries should be aware of some of the features of the operation of this device.

  1. The radiator itself may heat up unevenly, in some places it will be cold to the touch. You shouldn't be afraid of it. It is enough to remove the thermal head, and the entire surface of the battery will become equally warm. If this does not happen, it is necessary to check its condition: and remove the air.
  2. Thermostats can be installed on any radiators, except for cast iron ones. They have high thermal inertia. This makes the heat control device practically useless.

Types of thermostats

The type of thermostat depends on the type of thermostatic element - the upper, replaceable part of the device. She happens:

  • manual;
  • mechanical;
  • electronic.

Most thermostat manufacturers produce products suitable for any type of thermal head. The most demanded mechanical. This is the basic configuration, which differs in some characteristics and price.

The type of temperature sensor affects the cost of the device. It can be built-in and remote. The second option is more expensive. It is installed when access to the battery is limited. For example, it is covered by a screen. In this case, the device itself with a sensor located at a distance is connected by a special tube, which ensures the accuracy of the readings of the device.

The budget option is a device with a manual thermal head. It does not differ in the principle of operation of similar devices of a mechanical type. However, the consumer independently rotates the valve, which changes the amount of hot water passing into the radiator. If desired, this element can be replaced with a mechanical or electronic one. The body remains the same.

According to the type of filler, thermal heads are liquid and gas. They do not create a difference in the operation of the device. Both are of good quality and performance. However, liquid ones are presented in a wider range, since it is easier to make them.

When buying a thermostat, consider the following points:

  • temperature range width;
  • dimensions;
  • overall design;
  • connection method and sensor type.

All these characteristics affect the cost of the device.

How to install a thermostat on a battery

To properly install the thermostat, you need to know some points:

  • the thermostat is primarily mounted in rooms where people spend a lot of time and it is necessary to regulate the microclimate;
  • the correct location of the thermostat is a section on a horizontally running pipe as close as possible to the radiator;
  • install the device at the pipe inlet to the radiator;
  • devices are installed in functioning heating systems only after draining the coolant.

Installing the thermostat on the battery consists of the following activities.

  1. Into the empty heating system determine the "seat" place for the thermostat.
  2. If there is a valve at the place where the pipe enters the radiator, this part is dismantled.
  3. If there is no faucet, the horizontal conductor is cut.
  4. A thread is made from the ends of each pipe.
  5. The thermostat housing is installed in the prepared "seat". It is fixed with lock nuts on both sides on threaded pipes.
  6. The joints are wrapped with an insulating thread for sealing.
  7. The thermostatic element is inserted into the housing in a horizontal position.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: How to hide heating pipes in an apartment

When installing a thermostat with a remote sensor, determine its location in advance. It should be convenient for subsequent use. Usually it is mounted on the wall like a normal switch.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

The old-style heating system does not always provide uniform heating of all rooms. In some it may be too hot, in others - on the contrary, it is cool so that you have to dress. To create a comfortable temperature in each room, you should perform a simple upgrade: install a thermostat on the radiator.

Why do you need a thermostat?

The temperature regulator, installed on radiators, allows you to control the amount of heat entering a particular room by increasing or decreasing the flow of the liquid coolant. With it, you can not only set a comfortable temperature in each room, but also save money if the apartment is equipped with a heat meter.

In apartment buildings, when the temperature in the room is too high, the owners are forced to open the windows, while heating the street. If you have to pay for heat in accordance with the standards, as often happens in Khrushchev houses, then this is not so scary. But in the presence of heat meters, the money of residents literally fly out the window. And another situation: there is no point in full program heat the apartment when no one is at home.

The position of owners of autonomous heating systems is more advantageous. They can regulate the heat supply to the apartment at the exit from the boiler. But without the use of thermostats, it will not be possible to ensure a comfortable temperature regime in all rooms.

Why a thermostat?

In addition to the thermostat, it is possible to limit the flow of coolant into the battery using a ball valve or cone valve. But their use is associated with significant inconveniences:

  • designed for operation in only two modes: open or closed. When working in intermediate positions, it will quickly fail.
  • Regulate the flow warm water both devices need to be done manually and quite often. With a large number of rooms, this is long and inconvenient.

Installing thermostats on heating radiators will solve this problem. The thermostat, after installation and adjustment, will automatically maintain the set temperature by regulating the flow of hot water into the battery.

With cast iron radiators it is more difficult. Due to the high thermal inertia of the material (cast iron heats up slowly and cools down just as slowly), it will not be possible to quickly and accurately adjust the temperature.

Device and types of thermostats

The thermostat is selected based on the size of the pipe attached to the device and the type of heating:

  1. Valves marked RTD-G are designed for installation in single-pipe systems with natural circulation.
  2. Devices marked RTD-N are used in two-pipe systems. They are also necessary if a pump is installed for forced circulation of the coolant.

More information about all types of devices designed to adjust the temperature of radiators is written in. There you can find ways to increase the heat transfer of batteries.

Choice of places for installation of thermostats

The operation of these devices is badly affected by:

  • Direct sunlight.
  • Appliances that generate heat during operation.
  • Difficult air circulation: the thermostat must not be covered with curtains, curtains and decorative grilles.

It is not always possible to install thermostats on all heating radiators in an apartment. Where to put them in the first place in this case:

  • In private high-rise buildings- on the batteries on the upper tiers. The warm air in the room rises, so the temperature on the second and third floors will be higher than on the first.
  • in apartments and one-story houses first of all, thermostats are placed on batteries located closer to the heating boiler.

If access to the device is difficult, it is closed by interior items, then choose a product with a remote temperature sensor.

Installing a thermostat

It is important not only to choose the right model, but also to put it correctly. The heating system must continue to operate when the supply of coolant to the radiator is interrupted. For this:

  • In a single-pipe system, a special jumper is additionally connected - a bypass. The valve is mounted on the top pipe. To replace or repair the battery or thermostat, ball valves are installed on the upper and lower pipes.
  • In a two-pipe system, only shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator are sufficient.

Due to their low cost and simplicity, bellows thermostats are the most commonly used. They are installed as follows:

  • The device is guided by the arrow marked on its body. It shows the direction of movement of the coolant. First, its fixed part is mounted, on which the rotating head is then put on.
  • The valve is attached to the supply pipe with the help of an “American” (coupling with a union nut): it is easier to remove it if necessary.

The valve must be installed horizontally! Otherwise, warm air rising from the pipe will heat the bellows, which will lead to incorrect operation of the device.

  • The connection to the battery is made by threaded connection. Tightness is achieved using sanitary flax or a special sealing tape.
  • After removing the protective cap, install the bellows head. It is fixed with a nut, which is tightened with a spanner wrench. Another option is snap-on heads. They can be easily put on by turning to the maximum opening position and pushing until they click.

At the final stage, the piping is assembled to the end and the entire system is checked for leaks by filling it with coolant.

The installation steps are shown in the video.

The thermostat for a heating radiator has another name - a thermal head. The main function of this node is to change the intensity of movement of the coolant in the pipes, this task is implemented in different ways, it all depends on the type of device. The thermostat is installed directly on the heating radiator. In case of such a need, it is easy to dismantle it. However, it is important to adhere to the rules, in particular, all repairs are carried out before starting heating season.

The temperature of the coolant can not always be regulated. For example, in apartment buildings, the heating system works according to a different principle, and it is not possible to set the desired hot water parameters in each apartment. In such cases, the problem is solved if you install a device that is simple in principle of operation - a thermostat on the battery. With its help, the volume of the coolant in the pipes changes, which leads to a decrease in the air temperature in the room. The advantages of such devices:

  • all processes are performed automatically, the user does not have to constantly be near the heating radiator;
  • zonal change in environmental parameters: in some rooms you can turn off the radiator, in others the desired temperature is maintained;
  • reducing the amount of consumed heat source, which reduces heating costs;
  • in the event of a heater breakdown, you do not have to wait for the entire heating system riser to turn off apartment building, for which the public service is responsible, it is enough to turn off the radiator.

In addition, if more functional thermostats are installed, it will be possible to turn off the heater at the facility when the set air temperature is reached. The process involves a built-in or remote thermostat for the radiator, it transmits data on environmental parameters. This feature further reduces heating costs.

Device and principle of operation

The devices offered on the market have the same design. They also operate on the same principle. Main knots:

  • valve;
  • thermal head with stem and bellows.

The last of the elements is removable. Different thermal heads can be connected to one valve. The electronic analogue device is somewhat more complicated: the design provides for a microprocessor responsible for adjusting the temperature in the room. The principle of operation of the thermostat is based on changing the cross section of the valve clearance. To normalize the microclimate in the room, it is necessary to reduce the volume of coolant that enters the radiator from the pipe.

The thermal valve is connected to the head by means of a union nut and a stem. The last of the elements moves inside the structure under the influence of the load exerted by the medium in the bellows (gas, liquid). When heated, the substance expands. The pressure inside the head rises. As a result, the stem falls, partially or completely blocking the clearance in the valve.

When the air in the room cools, the thermostat settings are changed manually or automatically. If a device equipped with a bellows is installed, the stem returns to its original position after the characteristics working environment will change. Electronic devices interact with the thermostat. This element is often built into the design of the thermostat. There is another option: install a thermostat on the radiator.

The market also offers simpler thermostats - mechanical type. They are equipped with valves and taps. Such devices are distinguished by a primitive device. They contain a valve, valve. There is no bellows inside the structure. All actions to adjust the parameters of the coolant and the environment are performed by a person: if necessary, the valve partially closes the clearance inside the valve, which leads to a decrease in the volume of the coolant. When the air in the room cools down, it is necessary to return the device to its original position.

Choosing a thermostat

Before buying, study the characteristics of devices different types compare their functionality. Heating thermostats are selected based on the following criteria:

  1. Construction type: mechanical, electronic, electromechanical.
  2. Correspondence between pipe and valve size.
  3. Sectional area of ​​the inner lumen. In some models, the value of this parameter is initially small. As a result of the adjustment, the cross-sectional area is further reduced. This leads to significant cooling of the radiators. It is better not to use such a regulator for a battery, because the parameters of the air in the room will vary greatly.
  4. Location of the temperature sensor. It can be inline or external. In the first case, the data on the air temperature in the room will be more accurate, since the device is located at some distance from the radiator, which means it is not exposed to direct heat. The remote sensor is purchased when the radiator is recessed into a niche or is located close to the window sill, provided that the thermostatic element is located in a vertical plane.
  5. For a two-pipe and one-pipe heating system, different thermostats are chosen.
  6. device adjustment accuracy. Mechanical option The design is simple, and a person is responsible for changing the parameters of the coolant, since all manipulations are performed manually. When choosing electronic controllers, the level of sensitivity of automation is taken into account. Information on the magnitude of the measurement error must be requested from the manufacturer.
  7. Appearance of the device. Gas-filled, liquid and electronic temperature controllers are attractive. Automatic models of such devices are equipped with displays.
  8. Price category. Equipment for the heating system must be certified, have a guarantee. Manufacturers that have won the trust of users: Danfoss, Royal Thermo, Oventrop, Thermal control.

Types of thermostats

Such devices are divided into 2 main groups:

  • mechanical;
  • automatic (electronic).

The filling of the bellows is also different: gas, liquid. Each of the options has its own advantages. The devices operate on a similar principle, but differ in the level of sensitivity to changes in environmental parameters. The method of adjusting the mechanical device is manual. Electronic analogues do not require human intervention.

The thermostatic element is divided into types, taking into account the difference in valve configuration:

  • straight;
  • angular (for vertical, horizontal installation);
  • a device that has 3 pipes for connecting to a radiator, supply pipe and bypass, it is called a three-way valve.

The thermostat for the heating battery is also selected taking into account the working environment. There are 2 types:

  • gas-filled;
  • liquid.

The working medium fills the bellows, which is located inside the thermal head. Under the same conditions, liquid and gas behave differently, which determines the level of efficiency of the device.

Mechanical

These devices are available in the following options:

  • valve with valve;
  • devices equipped with a crane.

The last of the options is less preferable, since it is intended for other tasks, but can also be used to change the volume of coolant in the radiator. This is a manual thermostat. Turn the valve to the stop. If you regularly leave it in the half position, the internal valve will deform over time.

The valves are available in two versions:

  • needle type;
  • mechanical thermostat, specially designed for installation on a radiator.

The first is manually controlled. To change the volume of the coolant, you need to turn the valve. The disadvantage of such devices is the reduced cross-sectional area of ​​the internal lumen. Because of this, the level of efficiency of the regulator is significantly reduced. The advantages include the ability to install in a half position, if such a need arises, the valve can completely close the gap inside the valve.

Special mechanical type thermostats, designed for installation on a radiator, are distinguished by an improved design. They do not require the direct participation of a person in the process of changing the parameters of the coolant. However, such devices function without being connected to a power source.

Positive traits:

  • acceptable cost;
  • autonomy: devices do not require connection to a power source, which means they can function in any conditions;
  • simple process of work, management.

Such devices have lower accuracy than automatic counterparts.

Electronic

Temperature controllers of this type are programmable devices. The design provides for the possibility of changing and controlling environmental parameters. The automatic thermostat is equipped with a screen that displays the air temperature. The user can set the required value of this parameter. Throughout the heating season, the thermostat will maintain this temperature by opening and closing the valve. This feature is provided by the built-in microprocessor.

There are models of regulators that control the operation of the entire heating system: pumps, boiler. To ensure the possibility of changing the parameters of the coolant in automatic mode, a thermostat is used. It transmits the temperature value to the thermostat. There are the following types of electronic devices:

  • with open logic;
  • with closed logic;
  • simple models, similar to mechanical counterparts, but equipped with a display.

In the first case, the device can be reprogrammed. Thanks to this, it is possible to adjust the controller in accordance with the characteristics of any heating system. Analogues with closed logic cannot be reprogrammed. However, it remains possible to change the main parameters. These types of thermostats represent a group of digital technology. Their cost is higher than simple electronic counterparts with reduced functionality.

The main disadvantage of automatic regulators is the need to connect to a power source. In this capacity, the power supply can act. The thermostat consumes a minimum amount of energy. This allows you to operate it for a long period without the need to replace the power supply.

Liquid and gas-filled

Their design has already been discussed above. Such devices represent a group of mechanical regulators, they consist of a valve, a spring-loaded stem, a bellows, inside which a gas or liquid is contained. The substance must necessarily be able to expand under the influence of high temperatures. Due to this property, there is an increase in pressure inside the head. Paraffin is often used as a liquid medium.

Gas-filled and liquid devices are similar in terms of efficiency. The advantage of the first radiator regulator is a faster response to fluctuations in room temperature. The advantage of a liquid-filled device is a high rate of accuracy in transferring the pressure that has increased inside the bellows to a spring-loaded stem. This means that both types of devices implement their main function quite effectively.

Do-it-yourself thermostat installation

The recommended mounting location is at the radiator inlet. The installation scheme of the regulator is determined by the type of heating system: one- or two-pipe. In the first case, an important condition is the installation of a bypass. It is located in front of the thermostat. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to turn off the heater, then the coolant will pass through the bypass further along the communications.

The heating temperature regulator inside the radiator must be cut into the supply pipe. When choosing the installation location, the direction of hot water flow is taken into account. In most cases, the thermostat is built into a pipe that is connected to the radiator from above. Additionally, a valve with a valve is mounted in the lower part, which makes it possible to drain the coolant in the event of a breakdown of the heating device.

Mounting the device

Installation of a thermostat on heating radiators is carried out during a period when the communication system is not filled with coolant. The sequence of actions when mounting the control device on the pipe:

  • it is necessary to remove the battery, it is important to leave small areas pipes at the inlet to the heating device;
  • connect the regulator valve to the radiator plugs;
  • fix the second branch pipe on the inlet pipe.

Linen or FUM tape is used for sealing. You can install the thermostat yourself if you have the right tools and equipment. A grinder is used to cut metal. When connecting communications, do not apply excessive force, as you can break the thread. Always set the temperature controller to horizontal position, which will avoid additional exposure to heat emanating from the radiator, since heated air flows always rise to the ceiling.

Setting

The valve handle must be turned until the required operating mode is set. The temperature controller on the battery is set according to personal preferences. The valve is provided with a pointer and a scale. The adjustment is stopped when the pointer is set opposite the number corresponding to the desired mode.

How to remove the thermostat from the battery?

To do this, repeat the instructions that were given above. Considering that such actions are in most cases carried out during repairs in cold period year, it may be necessary to turn off the heating system. Then the coolant is drained. It remains only to dismantle the thermostat for heating, for this, fasteners are untwisted.

In the countries of the post-Soviet space, up to 40% of energy resources are spent on the needs of heating and ventilation of buildings, which is several times more than in advanced European countries. The issue of energy conservation is more acute than ever, especially against the backdrop of a constant increase in the cost of energy. One of the devices that saves heat energy in the house is a battery thermostat, whose installation can reduce heat consumption by up to 20%. But for this it is necessary to correctly select the regulators for the heating system and install them, which will be discussed in this article.

The principle of operation of a thermostatic valve

The first thermostats for radiators, designed to maintain a constant temperature in the room, were invented back in 1943 by DANFOSS, which also owns the market leadership in the production and sale of such devices. For this reason, our article will be based on the materials and recommendations of DANFOSS, whose long-term experience is beyond doubt.

Over the years since their invention, thermostats for radiators have evolved and become what we know them to be. Structurally, they consist of two main elements: a valve and a thermal head, interconnected by a locking mechanism. The purpose of the thermal head is to perceive the ambient temperature and, to regulate it, act on actuating mechanism- a valve, it shuts off the flow of coolant entering the heater.

This method of regulation is called quantitative, since the device affects the flow rate of the coolant passing into the radiator. There is another method - qualitative, with its help the temperature of the water in the system changes. This is done by the temperature controller mixing unit), installed in a boiler room or heating point.

To understand the principle of operation of the thermal head, it is proposed to study the diagram of the device shown in the section:

Inside the body of the element there is a bellows filled with a temperature-sensitive medium. It is of two types:

  • liquid;
  • gas.

Liquid bellows are easier to manufacture, but lose to gas bellows in terms of speed, so the latter are very widespread. So, when the air temperature rises, the substance in the enclosed space expands, the bellows stretches and presses on the valve stem. That, in turn, moves down a special cone, which reduces the flow area of ​​the valve. As a result, the coolant consumption is reduced. When the ambient air is cooled, everything happens in the reverse order, the amount of flowing water increases to a maximum, this is the principle of operation of the thermostat.

Depending on the type of heating system and the installation conditions of the device, valve-thermal head kits in various combinations can be used to control the flow of the coolant. In single-pipe heating systems, it is recommended to install valves with increased capacity and low hydraulic resistance (DANFOSS product marking - RA-G, RA-KE, RA-KEW).

The same recommendation applies to two-pipe gravity systems, where the coolant circulates naturally, without forced stimulation. If the heating scheme is two-pipe with a circulation pump, then you should choose a valve with the ability to adjust the throughput (DANFOSS marking - RA-N, RA-K, RA-KW). This adjustment is quite simple and no special tool is needed.

When the issue with the selection of the valve is resolved, you need to decide on the type of thermal head. They are offered in the following versions:

  1. With an internal thermocouple (as in the diagram above).
  2. With remote temperature sensor.
  3. With external regulator.
  4. Electronic (programmable).
  5. Anti-vandal.

A conventional thermostat for heating radiators with an internal sensor is accepted for installation if it is possible to position its axis horizontally so that the room air freely flows around the body of the device, as shown in the figure:

Attention! It is not allowed to install the thermostat on the battery in a vertical position, the heat flow rising from the supply pipeline and the valve body will affect the bellows, as a result of which the device will not work correctly.

If horizontal mounting of the head is not possible, then it is better to purchase an external temperature sensor for it complete with a capillary tube 2 m long. It is at this distance from the radiator that you can place this device by attaching it to the wall:

In addition to vertical mounting, there are other objective reasons for buying a remote sensor:

  • heating radiators with a temperature controller are located behind thick curtains;
  • in the immediate vicinity of the thermal head, pipes with hot water or there is another source of heat;
  • the battery is under a wide window sill;
  • the internal thermoelement enters the draft zone.

In rooms with high interior requirements, batteries are often hidden under decorative screens made of various materials. In such cases, the thermostat that has fallen under the casing registers the temperature of the hot air accumulating in the upper zone and can completely block the coolant. Moreover, access to head control is completely closed. In this situation, the choice should be made in favor of an external regulator combined with a sensor. Options for its placement are shown in the figure:

Electronic thermostats with a display also come in two types: with built-in and removable control unit. The latter differs in that the electronic unit is disconnected from the thermal head, after which it continues to function normally. The purpose of such devices is to adjust the temperature in the room according to the time of day in accordance with the program. This allows you to reduce the heating output during working hours when no one is at home and in other similar cases, which leads to additional energy savings.

When there are small children in the house who want to try everything with their own hands, it is better to install an anti-vandal type thermostat with a casing that protects the device settings from unskilled interference. This also applies to thermostats in other public buildings: kindergartens, schools, hospitals, and so on.

How to install a thermostat on a battery

The first recommendation is not to put thermal heads on all heaters within sight. Here the rule is as follows: radiators whose total power is 50% or more of all those in the same room should be regulated. For example, when there are 2 heaters in the room, then 1 battery, whose power is greater, should be equipped with a thermostat.

Advice. If as heating appliances applied cast iron radiators, then maintaining the microclimate using thermostatic valves will be ineffective. The fact is that the operation of cast-iron batteries is very inertial, after blocking the coolant flow, they radiate heat for a long time and vice versa, they accelerate for a long time. Mounting valves does not make sense, you will only waste your time and money.

The first part of the device - the valve - is recommended to be mounted on the inlet supply pipeline at the moment the radiator is connected to the heating system. In the case when it is required to be embedded into the assembled system, the supply line will have to be dismantled. This will cause some difficulties if the connection is made steel pipes, you will need a tool for cutting pipes and threading.

After the thermostat is installed on the heating battery, the thermal head is mounted without any tools. It is enough just to combine the marks on the cases and fix the head in the socket with a smooth pressure. The click of the locking mechanism will serve as a signal.

It is a little more difficult to install an anti-vandal thermostat, for this you need a 2 mm hex wrench. Having combined the required marks, as shown in the diagram, you need to press the thermal head, and tighten the fixing bolt located on the side with a hexagon.

The installation of the remote sensor and regulator is carried out on a section of the wall free from interior details and furniture, placing them at a height of 1.2-1.6 m from the floor, as shown in the diagram:

First, a mounting plate is attached to the wall with dowels, and then the case is snapped onto it with a simple click. The capillary tube is fixed to the wall with plastic clamps, as a rule, they are included with the product.

In addition to the standard temperature control in the heads, the thermostat is set to the maximum and minimum limits, beyond which the wheel will become impossible to turn. For this, restrictive pins located at the rear of the product are provided. You need to pull out one of them and, after debugging the system, insert it into the hole under the corresponding label:

Conclusion

Selecting a thermostat is not a difficult task, it is important to understand under which heating system the valve is purchased and to know where it will be located. Programmable devices are definitely recommended as the most economical.

In a well-planned, well-mounted and well-adjusted heating system, everything should work so that even on the most unfavorable weather days, the heat generated would be sufficient to maintain an optimal microclimate in the premises, but at the same time - thermal energy not thrown away when the need for its quantity decreases. It is bewildering the bragging of some hosts who say that they have so much good heating that even in the most severe frosts they do not close the windows - it is so hot in the rooms. Meanwhile, this is a typical example of an absolutely inefficient use of energy (and, ultimately, Money), and there is certainly nothing to brag about. And if we add to this the drafts walking around the rooms, which are not particularly beneficial for health, the picture turns out to be completely bleak.

The problem is solved quite simply - you need to install a thermostat for a heating radiator. This one is very compact and, in principle, inexpensive device will help maintain the set temperature in the room, regardless of the weather outside and the time of day, and such adjustment will be carried out automatically, without constant human intervention. Any owner who has basic skills in plumbing installation should be able to install a thermostat. Low costs, a couple of hours of work - and a pleasant microclimate sets in in your house, the countdown of the saved funds for energy carriers begins.

When designing a heating system, starting from a boiler and ending with heat exchange devices (radiators or convectors), specialists proceed from a number of evaluation criteria that take into account the specifics of the construction region, the location of the building on the ground, the nuances of its design, the layout of both the entire house and each of premises separately. The result of such calculations is the value of the thermal power of the boiler and the layout of the radiators in the rooms.

Try to do the calculations yourself

Like thermotechnical calculations can be carried out and on their own, according to a somewhat simplified, but very accurate algorithm. The procedure for carrying out calculations and are placed in the appendix to this publication.

It should be understood correctly - these calculations give a result with a fair operational margin, that is, designed for the most unfavorable conditions, for the most low temperatures outside the window.

But think for yourself, how long are the "Epiphany frosts" on the street? - usually the peak of winter cold falls on a ten-day week - another. The rest of the time it is much warmer, and often in winter it comes to outright thaws. An even greater contrast between the calculated heat output and the actual demand in it is shown by the “off-season periods” - the end of autumn and the beginning of spring.

Further, even during the day, at night and daytime, the amplitude of temperature differences can be measured in a dozen or more degrees. The Sun should not be discounted either. Although it is considered “cold” in winter, its rays in south-facing rooms on a clear day can make very tangible adjustments to the microclimate of the room - it can get too hot in it. The windows that are wide open for this reason do not solve the problem, but rather bring more negative than good.

Operating Systems central heating they are characterized by great inertia, and with all their desire, they are simply not able to respond flexibly to changes in such current conditions. In addition, in old city houses, these systems were once designed according to the standards in force at that time. It means that monotonous radiators were installed, no one dared to think about any, except for standard wooden ones, window frames. Modern life I've made some adjustments here as well. Very often, homeowners change old batteries for improved appliances with more significant heat dissipation. Windows with double-glazed windows are installed en masse, which, along with the reduction of heat losses, at the same time "clogs" the premises, blocking the natural ways of air from outside. All this also leads to frequent redundancy of heat supply to the rooms.

So, you have to take the issue of thermoregulation into your own hands.

It is somewhat easier in this regard for owners of private houses with autonomous system heating - it is much easier to respond to changes in external parameters, especially if modern equipment is installed, equipped with appropriate automation. But their problem may lie in a different plane.

For example, in a room north side buildings, daily temperature fluctuations may not be felt at all, unlike the south. In some rooms, the owners prefer to set some kind of individual mode, for example, cooler in the bedroom, warmer in the nursery. Separate utility rooms, for example, food storage, large heating is not required at all, and it is generally desirable to transfer temporarily unused rooms to the minimum heat consumption in order to save money.

In any of the situations shown, it is desirable to have some kind of device that would maintain a certain stable temperature in a particular room, regardless of changing conditions. Obviously, he must "manage" the operation of heat exchange devices, making the necessary adjustments in the "real time" mode to the output thermal power. It is this role that the thermostats for the heating radiator will perform.

On what principle is the operation of a thermostat for a heating radiator based?

The liquid that circulates through the circuits of heating systems (in most cases water is used for this) was not in vain given the name "coolant" - this term almost unambiguously describes its function. Having a high heat capacity, the liquid is able to accumulate the thermal potential transferred to it in the boiler equipment and transfer it to heat exchange points - radiators or convectors. And the amount of heat carried by water depends on the temperature of its heating and the volume flowing per unit time through the heat exchange device.

Quite obvious solutions arise for adjusting the heating level of heating batteries.

  • So, for example, you can vary the temperature of the coolant - this is called a quality adjustment. There are similar systems, but they are more expensive, more difficult to install, and therefore the consumer often makes a choice not in their favor. As a rule, in such schemes, the principle of mixing the cooled coolant from the return flow back into the supply flow is implemented.

By the way, changing the heating temperature on the boiler itself is also a qualitative adjustment, but it will initially concern all heat exchange devices, and we this case more interested in the possibility of precise settings on a particular battery.

  • The second option is to change the volume of coolant flowing through the radiator, that is, to regulate the intensity of its flow. This method is called quantitative adjustment. It is much easier to organize it, and it was she who formed the basis of the most popular thermostatic regulators for radiators.

It should not be assumed that such an adjustment is some new development- in the same way, you daily quantitatively regulate the flow of water by turning the handwheel of a water tap. Yes, and in heating systems, the principle of such control of the heating of radiators has been used for a very long time. Proof of this - antique cast-iron batteries, a hundred or more years old - as a rule, on each of them you can see a characteristic tap for changing the intensity of water flow through the radiator.

By the way, this method of adjustment is often used by the owners of houses and apartments at the present time. Without acquiring a seemingly expensive, automatic thermostat, they install it at the inlet to the battery conventional faucet, which change the intensity of the coolant flow. Well, this can also be considered a solution to the problem, but only all the adjustments will have to be done by yourself, that is, there is no need to talk about any flexibility of the room heating system - everything will depend on the speed of the manual changes made.

By the way, it would be appropriate to make one important remark. If for some reason it seems to the owners that this method of controlling the heating temperature is quite enough for them, then at least a high-quality faucet must be installed. So, many people use ball valves for this, which are recommended to be installed at the inlet and outlet. It should be correctly understood that the function of these locking devices is the complete disconnection of the battery in cases where it must be temporarily taken out of service, for example, for repair work or replacement. But the design of ball valves itself does not provide for intermediate positions necessary for fine adjustment - the coolant flow will very quickly "eat" either the spherical valve itself or the polymer seat-seal surrounding it.

And if a decision has already been made to save money and limit ourselves to the installation of a conventional plumbing faucet, then put the valve. It will last longer, and the accuracy of setting the coolant flow passing through it will be much higher. By the way, most thermostatic devices operate on the principle of a valve valve - with a progressively moving stem, at the end of which there is a valve.

So, the principle of quantitative adjustment can be implemented without purchasing an additional thermostat, but the convenience of this approach is extremely doubtful. The owner of the house or apartment will have to independently "monitor" the change in external parameters and timely change the position of the valve in one direction or another in order to ensure the stability of the temperature in the room. It is much more convenient to entrust this to automation, so that the device itself changes the intensity of the coolant flow through the radiator.

Compact regulators with a thermostatic head successfully cope with a similar task. They were patented in Denmark back in the fifties of the last century, and DANFOSS was the first to master their mass production. The products of this brand remain at the peak of popularity today, it is considered one of the recognized "trendsetter" in the field automatic systems control for thermal equipment. By the way, two DANFOSS production lines have also been launched in Russia.

The range of such thermostats is very wide. But there are not very many fundamental differences in the models of various brands.

Automatic thermostatic device for a heating battery

Typical set of thermostat for a heating radiator

Let's first take a look at a typical set of thermostatic regulator for a heating radiator, and then consider the design of its main components.

1 - This is a metal thermal valve, the operation of which is similar to the operation of a valve valve. As a rule, for ease of installation, such a valve is immediately equipped with an “American” union nut.

2 – a protective cap that protects the adjusting part of the valve with a protruding stem in the transport position or before installing the thermal head. Very often, such a cap can also serve as an adjusting handwheel that changes the valve setting in manual mode. But this, as they say, is a “light option”, which can only be justified in extreme cases, for example, before purchasing a thermal head. In any case, such use is not regular: it is both inconvenient and not informative, and besides, it is unlikely that a plastic cap will last long in a similar role with constant adjustments.

3 - balancing valve (valve). It is placed at the outlet of the radiator, and serves to fine-tune the heat exchange device when starting the heating system. In principle, it can also serve as a locking device to shut off the radiator if it is necessary to remove it (instead of a ball valve). The adjustment of such a balancing valve is usually carried out with a special key, after which the adjustment socket is closed with a plug. By analogy with a thermal valve, it usually comes with a union nut. The balancing valve is indirectly related to the operation of a thermostatic valve, and will not be considered further in this publication.

4 - thermostatic head, that is, the main control element of the entire thermostat. It is installed on the thermal valve instead of the removed protective cap. It may vary in principle of operation and complexity.

The illustration only showed an example of a kit. But it should be correctly understood that both valves and thermal heads can differ in configuration, and, by the way, are sold separately. As a rule, manufacturers of such devices comply with single standard, that is, for example, you can first purchase a valve, and then match it with a thermal head of the required level of automation or the desired layout design. All this will be discussed below.

How is the thermal valve itself arranged?

Consider a typical thermal valve device in the diagram below:

The body of the thermal valve (pos. 1) is made of metal with corrosion-resistant qualities. It can be brass (usually plated with a layer of chrome or nickel plating) or stainless steel. No attractive price should encourage the consumer to purchase a valve made of silumin alloy - these "cheap" ones, perhaps, are quite attractive in appearance, do not differ in long life and reliability.

The threaded part at the inlet (pos. 2) serves to “pack” the valve with the supply pipe. For some models, instead of such a thread, a fitting is provided for connecting to the corresponding metal-plastic pipe.

At the opposite end of the valve (at the outlet) there is an external thread section (pos.3). It serves to screw on the “American” union nut (pos. 5) - to connect the valve to the heating radiator. The fitting (pos. 4) is screwed into the battery. It turns out a detachable connection - if necessary, you can always close the heat exchange device and quickly dismantle and reinstall it without resorting to complex operations. As a rule, a fitting with an "American" comes with a thermal valve. Moreover, often the fitting itself has a special internal configuration, the so-called leveling nozzle - to normalize (calm down) the coolant flow after passing through the valve.

A bushing (pos. 6) is screwed into the valve body from above, outwardly similar to the bushing of an ordinary water valve. A progressively moving rod (pos. 7) passes through it, and the necessary seals are assembled inside and a return spring is installed that holds the rod, when there is no external influence on it, in the extreme upper position.

From below, the stem is connected to a poppet valve (pos. 8), on which a nipple made of high-quality sanitary rubber (pos. 9) is installed. When the stem is lowered, the nipple begins to gradually block the clearance for the passage of the coolant flow (shown by wide pink arrows). In the lowest position, when the stem is completely lowered, the nipple fits snugly against the metal seat of the valve (pos. 10), completely burying the passage.

A protective cap is screwed onto the threaded part in the upper part of the assembly (pos. 11) in the "stowed" position, in the working position - the thermal head coupling. However, on many models such a thread is not provided, and the installation of a thermal head is assumed using special latches with latches.

A similar principle of the device is characteristic of almost all thermal valves of this purpose. But design features can still be:

  • So, valves can be designed for installation in one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems.

— For single-pipe systems, where it is extremely important not to allow too high hydraulic resistance values, valves with larger body sizes are used due to the expanded passage in the valve seat area - this is noticeable even visually. Such devices usually have the letter “G” in the marking (for example, RTR-G), and their standard protective cap is light gray.

- In two-pipe systems organized according to the principle of forced circulation, the requirements for hydraulic resistance are not so categorical, and the valves are more compact. For their letter marking, the symbols "N" or "D", or any combination using these letters, are usually used.

  • It is clear that valves can differ in connection dimensions - the range includes devices with threaded connections for ½, ¾ and 1 inch.
  • Depending on the specific application, valves are selected with a completely identical control box, but with a different inlet and outlet configuration. There are models with a direct flow, and there are models with a change in direction to perpendicular. It is clear that the final choice of model will depend on the planned piping to the heating radiator and on its specific type.

The illustration above shows an example of a possible relative position the same valve part with inlet and outlet pipes

1 - a straight valve, such as shown in the sectional diagram above.

2 - angular vertical.

3 – angular horizontal

4 - with a triaxial arrangement of the valve itself and branch pipes. This model is available in two versions - right and left execution.

  • Thermal valves for two-pipe systems often have an adjusting ring to allow presetting of the maximum capacity.

This feature allows you to somewhat narrow the range of valve operation exactly within the required limits. As a result, unnecessary stress on the thermal head stem is reduced, which increases its durability, and automatic temperature adjustments are performed faster and more accurately.

Adjustment is simple - the ring is pulled up, rotated to the desired position and then lowered. Recommendations on the necessary installation parameters must be attached to the product passport, and these parameters depend on the thermal power of the battery on which the valve is installed, and on the temperature regime of the heating system.

After installing the thermal head, this adjusting ring turns out to be hidden, and it no longer takes part in further temperature adjustments.

  • Thermal valves with the letter “D” are also equipped with a dynamic flow stabilization system (this was already mentioned in passing above). This is a special configuration of nozzles and channels that minimizes the possible pressure drop, providing a stable flow of coolant through the radiator.

Thermostat control device - thermal head

So, on any thermal valve, we see a stem protruding from it, spring-loaded in the upper position. It is through this rod that the control force will be transmitted, which leads to a change in the cross section of the passage for the coolant and, ultimately, to a change in the heating temperature of the battery. And this control force, respectively, comes from the thermal head put on the valve.

The design of thermal heads can vary quite a lot.

  • The simplest solution is to install an adjusting (shut-off) handwheel on the valve. In principle, this is almost exactly the same flywheel that is placed on plumbing valves or faucets.

Everything is extremely simple - the rotation of such a handle along the threads gives it a translational movement up or down, which is transmitted to the valve stem. No automation - all installations are carried out exclusively by hand.

It is possible to change the heating level of the radiator, but it will no longer be possible to achieve temperature stability in the room, that is, in fact, it would be wrong to call such a nozzle a thermal head. And manufacturers usually present it only as a locking device. For example, it is required to carry out dismantling or other actions with the battery for which it is necessary to disconnect it from the circuit. To do this, the thermal head is removed, such a handle is placed, the valve is securely closed - and further operations can be performed. This, by the way, gives one more "preference" - you can not put shut-off ball valves in front of the radiator (although they are strongly recommended). That is, the presence of such a handle “just in case” can only be welcomed, but considering it as an adjustment mechanism is the ultimate simplification of the radiator control circuit.

  • Among the most popular devices are thermal heads, inside of which there is a so-called bellows, which reacts to changes in external temperature by increasing or decreasing its volume.

These changes in "geometry" are transmitted to the pusher, from it - to the valve stem. Thus, the change in the cross section of the channel for the passage of the coolant is performed automatically. Below, the device of the bellows head will be discussed in more detail.

  • Finally, the thermal head may have a built-in servo drive that provides translational movement of the stem pusher up and down. The control voltage to the drive is generated in an electronic remote control unit that monitors the temperature in the room and changes in external parameters.

Such devices find applications in complex automated climate control systems, usually managing the maintenance of a comfortable microclimate in all areas of the house. Due to this complexity, they have not gained wide application - for normal adjustment, much simpler and inexpensive bellows heads are sufficient.

The device and principle of operation of the bellows thermal head

Someone. at first glance, the device of such a device may seem tricky, but in reality it is a very simple and effective automation scheme, which, moreover, does not need power at all.

Everyone knows the property of materials to expand when heated and decrease in volume when the temperature decreases. It is this principle of thermodynamics that is the basis for the operation of such devices. Let's look at the diagram:

An angle thermal valve is shown at the bottom of the diagram, and we have already considered its device, so we will not return to this.

A thermal head is installed on the thermal valve - in this case, a union nut M30 (item 1) is used for this. There may be other mating options, for example, latches or special adapters, but it is this threaded one that is most common.

The thermal head can be conditionally divided into two sections. The fixed part is attached to the thermal valve and is the base, around the central axis of which the movable block (pos. 2) rotates, usually made of impact-resistant plastic. Channels (slotted or otherwise) are provided on the body of this rotary unit - this is necessary to ensure contact between the air in the room and the bellows element.

The bellows itself (pos. 3) can be considered the main element of this scheme. This is a hermetically sealed reservoir filled with a substance (agent) that is sensitive to temperature changes, that is, it has a noticeable volumetric expansion when heated. The agent may be liquid or gaseous.

The bellows body has the ability to change its volume - most often this is achieved by the presence of corrugated walls (pos. 4). And the work of the thermal head is based on this.

When the temperature in the room rises, the bellows expands, transferring force to the piston (pos. 5), from it to the pusher, and then to the valve stem, which, of course, are located coaxially after the installation of the thermal head. The movement of the rod narrows the clearance for the coolant or even completely blocks the flow of fluid. The temperature in the room has dropped - the bellows has decreased in volume - the spring-loaded valve stem moves up, slightly opening the channel for the coolant flow through the radiator.

The movable part of the thermal head is combined with a fixed base by a threaded connection (pos.6). This means that during rotation, the distance along the center line from the head pusher to the thermovalve stem changes. This allows you to set the required temperature values ​​at which the thermostatic control will work. And for visual control of the adjustment, the thermal head is equipped with a scale (pos. 7) with one or another graduation (on the rotating part) and a fixed pointer (pos. 8). This makes it possible to very accurately set the desired temperature level in the room.

This is the basic, most commonly used scheme. But some design features of bellows thermal heads are also possible.

So, sometimes it is better to control temperature indicators not directly at the heating radiator, but at some distance from it. In this case, you can use a thermal head with an external sensor, which is connected to the bellows by a thin capillary tube, the standard length of which reaches two meters.

Another option is when the location of the radiator itself is such that it becomes difficult or even simply impossible to change the settings of the thermal head. It's okay - there is a solution for this situation.

You can install a kit in which the thermal head does not have any controls - it only performs the function of a drive. To set the required values ​​and to control the temperature in the room, the set includes an external unit connected to the head with the same capillary tube. The block can be placed on the wall in any convenient place within the length of the capillary. It is clear that in such a system there are already two bellows - one control, located in the remote block, and the second - "power", that is, transmitting mechanical force to the thermovalve stem.

Thermal heads with electronic control

Recently, more and more often you can find thermostats for radiators on sale, which stand out sharply against the general background by the presence of a digital display and push-button control. If you look at it, then only the thermal head itself is electronic here, and it is docked with the same standard mechanical thermal valve.

Here, too, a wide variety is possible. Some electronic heads, simpler, combine mechanical and push-button control, allow only presetting one current temperature stabilization mode in the room. Others are also equipped with a programming function, that is, the owners can plan the operation of radiators by time of day and by day of the week. This is especially convenient if the heating system works offline (gives considerable savings on energy), or if there are heat meters in a city apartment - you will only have to pay for the consumed energy. For example, it does not make much sense to maintain a temperature of +20 degrees during the working day, when there are no tenants in the apartment - it can only be “adjusted” to the arrival of the owners home. You can reduce the heat even at night - in a cool atmosphere, you sleep much better. Well, by the “morning wake-up”, the automation will do its job - there will be an optimal temperature in the rooms. For weekends - to provide specific modes of operation.

In addition, such thermal heads often carry special settings in their memory, the name of which speaks for itself - “freeze protection”, “holiday”, “economy”, etc. Switching the room heating system to this mode is just a matter of pressing the corresponding button.

You can go even further - to combine the management of all heating radiators in a single "center", to which all the climate equipment in the house is subordinated. For such innovative approach special thermal heads are also produced, equipped with a wireless communication system with the control unit.

It is clear that not everyone can afford such a luxury. Who knows, it is possible that in five years such a system will become an accessible routine. In the meantime, at least at first, it makes sense to install a conventional bellows thermal head. You just need to choose the right one to get started.

What criteria are followed when choosing a thermostat for a heating battery?

When choosing the best model for your heating radiator, you should take into account the following:

  • It is not necessary to purchase a ready-made kit. If you can simply choose a thermal valve and a thermal head separately according to the cost criteria, you can do so. In addition, there are situations when buying a complete set at once seems too expensive. This means that it makes sense to first install a thermal valve and manage it manually, and from the next salary, already purchase an automatic thermal head.
  • It has already been mentioned above that the design of the valve must correspond to the type of heating system. Among the assortment presented in stores, most valves are designed for two-pipe systems, but if you have a single-pipe system, then such a replacement is unacceptable! Will have to search...
  • Going to the store for a thermostat, the owner should already have a clear idea of ​​​​how he has connected to the radiator, what pipe diameter is used, and where it is planned to install the thermal valve. It has already been shown above that the configuration of the product depends on this. Important - the regulator should only be installed on the supply pipe.

Moreover, there are certain requirements for the location of the thermal head itself. If you put it vertically, then the bellows will fall into the flow of warm air rising up from the supply pipe, and the operation of the bellows will not be correct.

It is clear that this requirement does not apply to thermal heads with a remote sensor or outdoor unit management.

The dimensions of the threaded connection of the thermal valve depend on the diameter of the supply pipes.

  • There are a few more recommendations for choosing the location of the thermostat. So, you should not put it where direct sunlight is likely - the device will begin to "lie". The neighborhood of a large household appliances from which thermal radiation is possible. A device located in a constant draft zone will not work correctly. The presence of any of the listed obstacles forces you to purchase a thermostat with a remote sensor or with an external control panel.

Radiators will also require a similar approach, which, for reasons of interior design, are hidden in niches, behind thick curtains or under decorative screens, as well as convectors of a hidden location.

  • From the above, it is probably clear that a thermal head with automatic control is much more advantageous than a conventional valve installed on a valve. But in some cases the opposite is true. So, it does not make much sense to spend money on a bellows thermal head if you plan to install a regulator on cast iron batteries. The high heat capacity of this metal and the large mass of radiators make them excessively inertial, and the thermostatic unit is unlikely to work correctly. It is quite possible to confine yourself to installing a conventional mechanical handle on the thermal valve.
  • Thermal heads can be equipped with liquid or gaseous agent bellows. Which is better? It is generally accepted that gas-filled bellows have greater accuracy, increased speed of response to changes in external conditions. They have one more advantage - they are not so "capricious" for the presence of any third-party heat sources. But the price for them is significantly different from the cost of heads with a liquid bellows, simply because of the increased complexity in production.

Objectively speaking, the advantages in terms of speed of response and accuracy in terms of practical application are subtle, and it will probably still be more profitable to buy a cheaper liquid bellows. Moreover, there is not much difference in terms of reliability and durability.

Performance characteristics include control accuracy. This includes the value of hysteresis - this is a change in the external temperature, causing a response of the automation of the device. It is clear that the lower this indicator, the more sensitive the thermostat. The temperature setting accuracy can be indicated (this is especially true for electronic components). For mechanical devices, scale graduation matters. The “length” of this scale is also important, but, as a rule, for most devices it is maintained in the range from +5 ° С (anti-freeze mode) to +30 ° С. Usually, a position is also provided in which, if such a need arises, the thermal valve is completely closed.

  • The thermostat head, like a beautiful toy, can attract the attention of a child, and he will be tempted to twist it while there are no adults nearby. It is probably worth considering this possibility as well. Troubles can be avoided if you immediately purchase the so-called anti-vandal casing, which will not allow unauthorized access to the tuning flywheel.

Yes, children - sometimes an adult family member can “take the initiative” by knocking down the set settings. Therefore, some thermal heads provide for the presence of mechanical limiters for the rotation of the adjusting handwheel, within the minimum required range. At least amateur intervention won't end up with a setting too low or too high. high temperature in room.

  • It is probably unnecessary to explain that it is unreasonable to purchase devices of this type from hand or in obscure outlets. Manufacturers of thermostats (especially for thermal heads) give a guarantee for their products, but it will be valid only if there is a mark of a specialized store in the product passport, and you can only check the originality of the product there.

When buying, it is better to focus on reputable brands that have proven by practice the reliability and durability of thermostats. These include Danfoss, Teplokontrol, SALUS Controls, Royal Thermo, Oventrop, Caleffi. In a word, there is a choice, and it makes no sense to give your "hard-earned money" for a completely unfamiliar trademark, the origin of which is generally unknown.

A small overview of popular models of thermal heads

The table below shows the main characteristics of several models of thermal heads that are in great demand among Russian consumers.

Model nameIllustrationBrief description of the modelApproximate price level (in rubles as of June 2017)
"Oventrop Vindo TH M 30x1.5" Thermostatic head from the category of the most affordable.
Liquid bellows.
Pairing with a thermal valve is a union nut M30.
The range of set temperatures is from +7 to +28 degrees, a "zero position" is provided - the valve is completely closed.
The maximum temperature of the coolant in the system is up to 120 ° C.
750
Royal Thermo RTE 50.030 Head with liquid (toluene) filling of the bellows.
The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees (plus zero position) with a hysteresis value of only 0.55 degrees.
Permissible coolant temperature - no more than 100 degrees.
Connection with the valve - union nut М30×15.
Five-year manufacturer's warranty.
850
Caleffi Model with built-in bellows sensor.
Pairing - direct fixation on valves of a certain series of the same brand, or the use of a special adapter (separate purchase may be required).
The temperature setting range is from 7 to 28 degrees.
1100
Danfoss RTS Everis Liquid-filled bellows head.
Connection with Danfoss branded thermal valves - direct fixation, with others - through an adapter.
The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees with a hysteresis value of 0.5 degrees.
The functions for limiting the setting range and the set value have been well thought out.
Automatic frost protection of the system at temperatures less than +8 degrees.
Original head design.
1200
"Oventrop Uni LH M 30x1.5" Thermostatic head with remote temperature sensor.
Connecting capillary tube 2 m long.
Pairing with the valve - union nut М30×15.
The range of set temperatures is from 7 to 28 degrees, there is a "zero position".
Possibility to limit the adjustment range by the user.
The maximum temperature of the heat carrier in the system is up to 120 °С.
1600
Salus PH60 Thermal head of electronic type. Pairing with a thermal valve is a union nut М30×15.
Non-volatile memory with the ability to program the operating modes for a week in all sorts of variations.
Liquid-crystal display with a backlight function, with the display of real and preset parameters, the level of charge of the elements, the operability of the device.
Four preset modes on different cases operation.
The temperature setting range is from +5 to +40 degrees with a hysteresis of 0.5 degrees.
Power supply - two AA elements. Consumption is minimal, and quality elements are usually enough for a year of operation.
3750
Caleffi 472000 Radiator thermoregulation kit - drive head and remote monitoring and control unit, with liquid bellows, connected by a capillary tube (2 m).
The temperature adjustment range is from +6 to +28 degrees. Hysteresis - 0.6 degrees.
Installation: for a special series of branded valves - direct fixation, for the rest - using an adapter purchased separately.
8500

To this must be added the cost of the thermal valve. In high-quality performance, for example, the original Danfoss valve, it can cost, depending on the specific model, another 1200÷2600 rubles.

Video: expert advice on choosing a thermostat for a heating radiator

How to independently install and configure a thermostat for a heating battery

Mounting the thermal valve and installing the head

Masters who undertake to install a thermostat on a heating radiator often charge an unreasonably high fee for this, and plus they require an “additive” for the initial adjustment of the device. But all this can be done independently, unless, of course, there are plumbing installation skills. If there is no experience, then it is probably not very reasonable to consider the installation of a thermal valve as a training session. Therefore, read the basic installation rules - it will be easier to assess your capabilities in advance.

  • The installation of thermostats with their subsequent adjustment is usually started from the top floor of a private house, since it is there that warm air rises. If the house is one-story, or the installation of the regulation system is planned in the apartment, then first of all you should pay attention to the premises, which are characterized by the greatest amplitudes of temperature fluctuations. These include the kitchen, rooms overlooking the sunny side, as well as premises where the largest number of people is usually observed.
  • If there are several heating radiators in the room, then installing a thermal head on each of them is an unnecessary luxury. In addition, they will even create a kind of interference with each other. It is enough to mount it on the one that is more powerful, and if they are equivalent, then on any, but better on the one where it will be more convenient to make settings.
  • The thermal valve is always installed only on the supply pipe, regardless of the radiator connection scheme. The direction of movement of the coolant is indicated by an arrow on the body. At the inlet, the thermal valve has an internal thread section - for connection with the supply pipe. At the outlet, a threaded fitting is provided for the union nut, which, with its own fitting, should be included in the kit. The “American” fitting is packed into the radiator, but the connection between the thermal valve and the radiator, therefore, turns out to be detachable.
  • Before starting installation, make sure that the coolant from the system (or in this section of the system) is drained, the pipes are empty.
  • The thermal head should not even be taken out of the package until the valve is completely ready. And the valve itself should be installed with a protective cap on - there is less chance of accidentally damaging the protruding stem during installation.
  • As already mentioned, the valve must take such a position that after installing the head, it is located horizontally. This requirement does not apply to devices with a remote temperature sensor.
  • There are no ready-made "recipes" for connecting the valve to the supply pipe - it all depends on the type of pipe, the proposed installation technology (through a squeegee or an additional "American" - for metal, fittings for metal-plastic, welding for polypropylene, etc.). The one who performed the plumbing installation understands what the conversation is about.
  • Do I need a ball valve upstream of the valve? In principle, it is possible to do without it, however, the crane is not so expensive as to be neglected. It is undesirable to consider a thermal valve as a locking device - let it work only for adjustment, without experiencing unnecessary loads. If you compare the prices of valves and taps, everything should become clear.

But "sculpt" ball valve between the valve and the radiator is completely wrong.

  • In the event that the radiator is included in a one-pipe heating system (or in its one-pipe section - this also happens), the thermal valve will not work correctly without interfering with other heat exchange devices if a bypass is not installed in front of the radiator.

A bypass is a jumper between the supply and return pipes. It performs several functions, and one of them is to prevent the imbalance of the entire system when the coolant flow through the radiator is limited or completely closed.

If there is no bypass, then it must be installed without fail. In this case, they are usually guided by the rule that the diameter of such a jumper should be one step smaller than the diameter of the supply pipes. The bypass must be installed up to the stopcocks so that turning off the radiator does not stop the entire system. But it is not recommended to mount a tap on the bypass itself.

  • Upon completion of the installation of the thermal valve, the system is filled with coolant, the circulation pump is started - it is required to check the quality of all the created connecting nodes in order to exclude leaks during operation. In addition, attention is drawn to the place where the stem leaves the valve body - there should not be a “tear” there. If even a small leak is detected there, it means that not everything is in order with the stuffing box seal of the valve, and it makes sense to urgently replace it in the store with a serviceable one.
  • Valves with a setting ring are pre-installed. The optimal value is determined in accordance with the recommendations specified in the product data sheet. The installation itself is very simple - the ring is pulled forward, which is removed from the stopper, rotated until the risk coincides with desired value, and then stops again.

  • And only now it is possible to finally assemble the thermostat, that is, install the head on the valve. As mentioned above, the options for fixing it may vary - but this must be specified in the product passport and taken into account even when buying. Some manufacturers practice special clamps - it is enough to push the head onto the valve body until it clicks. Another common option is to use an M30 union nut.

Before installation, the thermal head is positioned so that its scale is clearly visible. No tool is required to tighten the nut - finger force is sufficient.

Setting thermostats on heating radiators

The passport gives a decoding of the divisions of the thermal head scale - products for this purpose undergo an appropriate calibration at the factory. But the laboratory conditions can be very different from the real ones, so it is recommended to carry out your own calibration for your own heating system and real operating conditions. That is, to get a visual representation of the correspondence of the values ​​on the scale with the air temperatures in the room.

  • This will require an ordinary thermometer - it is better to rely on its readings than on your own feelings, which, by the way, may not coincide in some way with different family members.
  • To set up, it is necessary to close windows and doors, that is, to prevent drafts.
  • The first step is to open the thermal valve completely. To do this, the head rotates counterclockwise to its end position. Encountering practically no resistance in the valve, the coolant provides maximum heating of the radiator at a given temperature regime of the heating system.
  • When the valve is fully open, the air temperature in the room begins to rise rapidly. They wait until it reaches the upper threshold (enough, for example, 28 ÷ 30 degrees), and then turn the head in the opposite direction (clockwise) to transfer it to the extreme right position, at which the valve is closed.
  • After a while, the temperature starts to drop. Here is required increased attention attention. When the temperature level approaches the most comfortable feeling or the intended reading of the thermometer, I begin to turn the thermal head very smoothly counterclockwise. It is necessary to catch the moment when the valve opens. This can be manifested by the appearance of a slight noise of the coolant passing through the valve and heating of the body in the area of ​​the outlet pipe. This is the position of the thermal head and will correspond to the actual response temperature. For control, the experiment can be carried out several times - for different temperature levels, recording the thermometer readings and the corresponding scale divisions. As a result, the owners will have a clear picture, which, by the way, will be useful to check with the data of the thermal head passport. Now there is all the necessary data for the normal operation of the thermostat.

Summing up…

To summarize the information - a few words about the preferences that homeowners receive who have installed radiator thermoregulation devices.

  • The cost of thermostats does not look frightening, the installation also does not differ in great complexity, that is, such an optimization of the heating system will not make a big gap in the family budget. And both newly created and systems that have been in operation for a long time are quite subject to modernization - there is not much difference.
  • The room always maintains a stable level comfortable temperature set by the owners, regardless of changes in external conditions.
  • Heat is distributed throughout the premises rationally, evenly, which is especially important for single-pipe heating systems, which are often characterized by a persistent decrease in the temperature of the coolant on the radiators as they move away from the boiler room.
  • The operation of thermostatic regulators of this type is simple and does not require any energy costs. On the contrary, there will be an effect of energy savings (sometimes even up to 25%), and the purchase of such devices usually pays off very quickly.

At the same time, it should be correctly understood that the operation of such thermostats is one-sided, and is always aimed only at reducing the temperature in heating radiators. It would be completely naive to believe that if there is not enough heat, the thermal head will “perform a miracle”, and the temperature in the room will rise. No, radiators must always have an operating power reserve, and the task of the valves is to take exactly as much heat as is required at the current moment.

And if the power is not enough, you will have to look for the cause and eliminate it. The options here may be different - a “weak” boiler, incorrect or poorly executed circuit wiring, erroneously calculated parameters of installed radiators, or even insufficient insulation of the house.

And since we were talking about correct selection radiators in terms of power, we offer the reader as a “bonus” a convenient program for calculating this parameter.

Appendix: Program for calculating the required power of a heating radiator

When designing a heating system and each of its elements, they proceed from the considerations that its power should be sufficient to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the premises under the most adverse conditions. In fact, the maximum indicators are either never achieved at all, or are in demand for an extremely short time. This is where the importance of thermoregulation systems manifests itself in the most obvious way - they seem to smooth out the discrepancy between the available capabilities of radiators and the actual need for heat at the moment.

But the operational reserve, nevertheless, must be laid down.

And how to determine the required heat output of radiators? An often recommended counting technique when square meter 100 watts of heat is “assigned” to the area, which is very far from reality, since it does not take into account the mass important nuances. Therefore, we offer our own calculation algorithm, which is implemented as an online calculator.

 
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