Velo spikes. Studding bike tires on your own. Bonding a protective pad between the tube and the studded tire
Cycling enthusiasts are often forced to buy expensive winter tires to ride in the cold and frost. One studded tire will cost fabulous money, even if it is made in China, not to mention branded manufacturers. It is much easier to make studded tires yourself and it will be much cheaper. However, it will take a lot of time to create such rubber. Although in words, everything is quite simple.
See this video for step by step instructions
For work you need:
- old tire;
- self-tapping screws with a wide hat;
- awl;
- glue moment;
- gloves;
- screwdriver;
- scissors;
- camera.
Self-tapping screws should be taken not very long, but always with wide caps. So the fastening will be more reliable.
First of all, we need to remove and disassemble the tire from the wheel. Now we take an awl and pierce holes in the places where we will insert the spikes. Please note that punctures should be made in the thickened areas of the tire. Because in thinner ones, the rubber can disperse.
We pierce holes all over the wheel in this way, the work is quite laborious and dreary.
After all the holes are done, we proceed to further work.
Necessarily with inside mark all the holes made with a crayon or a pen, the main thing is that you can see them well in order to get into them.
Now we take glue and put a drop on each hole from the inside. Then we take a self-tapping screw and screw it into the hole with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Don't twist them too tightly.
There are about 350 spikes per wheel, but you can do more, or you can do more. Look at your own discretion. The work is quite long and dreary, so be patient in advance, screwing in the screws one by one. Don't forget to apply glue before screwing in the screw. This is important to keep it securely in place.
Do not miss too many points at once, 4-5 will be enough. Otherwise, the glue will dry out and the adhesion of the screw head to the surface of the tire will not be good enough.
Advice: if your tire is dark inside, take a transparent glue moment, this will allow you to see exactly where you made the hole and not make a mistake when screwing in the screw.
After all the screws are in place, we take the camera and cut it along, along the seam. This is necessary in order to put it under the camera, which will help to avoid rubbing against the spikes and rubbing it. We wrap the inflated chamber with a cut chamber. Can also be glued for security. We put on studded tires on top and you can test.
As winter came, and it became impossible to ride on summer tires, I faced a problem - I needed studded tires. After reviewing the options for factory tires from Nokian and their prices, I firmly decided to stud the rubber myself. After rummaging around on the Internet, I came across one detailed description of wheel studding, but that option did not inspire me at all, since the laboriousness did not quite correspond to the result obtained. Later, I read on some forum a mention of the possibility of studding with self-tapping screws. Deciding to work on this idea, I rushed to the shops. So, in the end, it was purchased:
- 2 tires KENDA KINETICS - 460 rubles pcs;
- 3 tubes of rubber glue - 30 rubles a piece;
- 220 self-tapping screws - ~50 rubles;
To install the self-tapping screws, I chose rows of treads running on the sides from the central part of the tire. To begin with, I had to drill holes in the appropriate places with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. (I want to warn you, no need to ream big holes!) In total, the tire has more than 108 holes. Next, you need to degrease the inside of the tire, I used stinky acetone for this. (Remember, all work with such muck as acetone must be done in a ventilated area and preferably with gloves and goggles. Those who are most concerned about their health can wear a rubber apron). Now we take the glue and smearing the self-tapping screws in there, we screw them from the inside of the tire. Believe me, it's not difficult, self-tapping screws smeared with glue are easily screwed into the marked holes. After all the self-tapping screws are screwed in, you need to wait for the glue to "grab". At this time, we take a camera and cut out strips of 5 centimeters wide from it. We wash them from talc, dry and degrease. By this time, the glue on the screws should already dry (30 minutes is enough) and we proceed to the second part of making winter tires. We glue the inside of the tire and the cut strip from the unnecessary camera with glue. We stand for a couple of minutes and glue the rubber strip inside the tire, right on top of the self-tapping screws. I advise you to glue small areas 10-20 cm each, so it is easier to deal with quick-drying glue. It is necessary to ensure that in all places the rubber strip fits snugly against the tire. After this, you can leave the tire to dry for 20 hours.
Mighty self-tapping caps show through under the rubber strip
Here you are holding your first homemade tire in your hands, but something is clearly embarrassing you ... Oh, yes! Sharp screws sticking out a centimeter remind you of wheels from racing motorcycles for ice tracks! This can be corrected. Find the most powerful wire cutters, and bite off the excess. It is necessary to bite off so that about 3-5 mm remains outside. Exactly all the same, it will not work, you can not try. To be honest, the most painful procedure in the manufacture of these tires is just shortening the protruding screws. Moreover, this is proportional to the hardness of the metal of the screws. The total time to make one tire is about 8 hours, but it's worth it, so stock up on strength and patience.
A few tips for using these tires.
- 1. Always inflate the chambers in such tires to the maximum, otherwise, when hitting a hard object, the tire will “pierce” the screw head to the rim, and these are two holes in the chamber at once. So far, I have been experimenting with pressure, piercing the chamber three times, and two holes are obtained during the breakdown.
- 2. Remember - the tires you made are not a complete analogue of the WXC 300 :), so don't forget and drive carefully.
- 3. Do not leave the tires wet for a long time, the self-tapping screws will begin to rust.
- 4. In any case, brag to people you know and not so familiar with your custom tires.
Now my observations and feelings:
A few words about rubber. KENDA KINETICS justified the investment. On loose snow, they row not very well. But they have a very soft rubber that does not petrify in the cold. If you stud the central tread, then you can certainly increase the "rowing" properties of the tire (BUT I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS, BECAUSE IT IS A GREAT LOAD ON THE CENTER, and the probability of a puncture increases by ~ 30%).
During the ride, the spikes have been sharpened quite a bit. Literally just a little. But since bare asphalt is rare in winter, the problem of stud wear is practically absent.
In this article we will talk about studded tires and self-studded bicycle tires at home. Compare efficiency different ways spikes with factory tires designed for winter driving.
Introduction
With the onset of winter, most cyclists stop their trips and the bike can only wait for spring warming. And if the obstacle in the form of cold can be solved with a warm bike or casual wear, then when snow and ice begins - riding becomes almost impossible. We will discuss this most "almost" with you.
Not for the first year I have been thinking that it would be nice to ride snow-covered paths, admire winter landscapes, breathe clean frosty air. And the problem has always been the fear of a slippery road, representing a considerable danger. Thinking about winter tires. But their cost has always stopped - to invest from 700 to 1000 and more UAH. for multiple trips highly impractical for our modest income.
On the Internet and on the forum, links and pictures of independent spikes often flashed, but sometimes they didn’t reach their hands, sometimes they didn’t have an extra pair of toothy tires at hand. Finally, the desire to ride on ice and snow exceeded all "buts" and I decided to deal with the issue of self-studded bicycle tires right up close.
With the search for new information on the net, the analysis of the attempts of the bike brothers to make studded tires, I gradually formed the image of the perfect studded shoe at home.
The most common mistake, in my opinion, is long spikes:
It seemed to me that it was easy to damage the tire and the chamber with the head of a cracked screw. I decided that the spikes still need to be bitten off or grinded off. Both of these options seemed extremely labor-intensive to me. Perhaps for this reason, the process was constantly delayed.
But the forum offered another option - instead of furniture screws (with a press washer), like these
use "flies" - the smallest self-tapping screws with a drill: 3.5 x 9.5. (bottom in the photo) The experience of others showed that they are in no hurry to tear the rubber, and they weigh less.
Choice
The screws were selected and, as a result of a short search, were found in the "Epicenter" at a price of 60 UAH. for 1000 pieces. 500 was enough for me and the purchased screws were divided into two.
Now we choose tires. The main factor behind the studding project was minimum size money investments, so that, in case of failure, not to regret the lost funds.
Asking the forum members unnecessary tires and places where you can buy them inexpensively new, I came across a very attractive option: a pair of not badly killed (and the front is almost new) Tioga Factory DH tires. The owner, with joy and in the name of new research, parted with them for a symbolic price of 40 UAH per piece. What makes the tires interesting: The tread width is 2.3", large thick lugs ideally placed for studding and probably effective in snow.
Process
Studding was made in the following way:
- First, we drill holes in the spikes with a screwdriver from the outside to the inside. The drill diameter remained unknown, because it was bought on the market from my grandfather "by eye" - something about 1 mm.
- From the inside on the tire you can see the holes through which the drill came out. We tighten the screws through these holes from the inside. As it turned out, they are not afraid that they once again turn in rubber.
- We cut the old camera lengthwise from the inside, cut out the nipple
- We put a slightly inflated chamber into a cut one and put it all into the tire and install it on the rim. Pumping up.
At first things went badly. At first, there was no drill and it was necessary to drill with the self-tapping screw from the outside, which rubbed the fingers, the self-tapping screw constantly fell out of the non-magnetic head of the cross bit. Screws often climbed out of the center of the spike, because of which they had to be twisted. But from the first attempts, two rows were screwed into the rear tire: 104 screws, 52 for each row. It was decided, in view of the high labor costs, to leave two rows behind.
The front wheel was studded already with a drill and some skills. It took a little over an hour to make 208 screws (4 rows of 52 pieces). To celebrate, I decided to add the missing 2 rows to the rear tire as well. The result met all my expectations and confirmed the correctness of the choice of components - the spikes protruded from the rubber about as much as in expensive factory tires.
All close-up photos were taken after the test drive.
As I already wrote, another old camera was inserted inside between the screw heads and the camera, cut along the inner circumference. Here's what the screw heads left on it after the test drive.
Similar prints on the camera. The chamber is covered with talc, which was full in the cut tire.
If you pump it up, the prints are still visible. And although it’s too early to say that it’s easy to wipe even through the second chamber, I would advise you to seal the hats with something more dense and not stretchy. Unfortunately, I did not find such materials and will continue to test the available ones.
This is what the screw heads look like inside the tire.
Despite the fact that the screws sit tightly in the rubber and the tire does not plan to tear, I carry a spare tube and tire with me, Kenda Small Black 8, which can roll up into a small ball.
The spikes on the rear tire are different from the front ones. In this model, let me remind you: Tioga Factory DH, this was conceived by the manufacturer (see the photo of the tires above). The rear tire I got was a little worn and the inner row of spikes sticks out 1-2 mm more. Not perfect, but I think it's better than without them.
The pressure in the cells was below normal. Tested with fingers. Feels like about 1.5 ATM.
Test Drive
3 more people volunteered to check the quality of the work done with me in combat conditions. We gathered in Leporsky Park on a Sunday morning - to ride along its snowy paths, along the track of the summer eliminator.
Each of us four had studded tires. The following took part in the tests:
Tioga Factory DH with front sights 9.5 x 3.5
Schwalbe Ice Spiker
Innova 2.35 with thick furniture screws with sawn points and additional front sights. Rides studded for the 3rd year. Back without spikes.
Kenda Klondike
We waited a little more for new participants, waited for no one and the test began!!!
But first, I’ll tell you how I got to the park at the gathering place, located one and a half kilometers from home.
He rolled the bike up the stairs. It clattered loudly with iron spikes on the concrete. Carefully, trying not to catch the walls, I lowered the bike from the 3rd floor. I immediately noted that the tires do not rest against concrete at all, but slide over it. The bike is difficult to lean against the wall - it can fall.
Street. Frost of 10-12 degrees, half-melted recent snow, which turned into mush in places where people walk and cars drive and froze in this state. Small bumps inspire serious concern. If there were no spikes, it would be very difficult to ride on them. But let's check the spikes... Lower the saddle a couple of centimeters and go!
first meters. Scary. I'm trying to check the tenacity of the tires. They don't seem to slip. Braking - they stop well, they slip a little, but ... Like on asphalt crushed with sand. Front braking is great! It is quite effective, but the probability of blocking with subsequent skidding has increased. In general, gradually went to full force. Yes, you have to ride on sidewalks. It is dangerous to meddle on the road due to the fact that cars are much more stable than my bike :)
I drive through frozen curbs, cross transverse deep snow and ice ruts. Everything is fine. The bike habitually holds the cover. Those. here is quite good. I try to ride standing in the buildup - no problem! I quickly get to the park, where they are already waiting for me.
Go! Lots of rides in the park. The bike is not only stable on the descent, it climbs the hills without the slightest slip on the trodden snow. Children sledding and not without difficulty climbing slides along slippery paths look with surprise as we drive up these slides. And even standing, even swinging.
The photo shows how Lyokha enters the turn. With a twist, as usual. The studding allows you to control the bike perfectly in such conditions.
Having rolled around the park, we meet another participant in today's trip. He has no spikes in his tires and feels much less confident. And only the experience of several trips before that helps him not to fall every 10 meters.
We decide to test the braking. We find an area with a smooth smooth ice crust.
See the video for the results.
What happened: braking with only the rear wheel is inefficient and the braking distance is quite long. It is almost impossible to slow down without spikes (0:45). Braking with both wheels is very effective (0:33), but if you push it in front, the rear wheel can lock up and slip (1:13), what with high probability may end up falling.
After the park we went down to the sea. A steep descent along the steps opposite the boulevard 50 years of October gave a good thrill. Loose melted snow does not hold tires as confidently as ice.
Two more were waiting for us downstairs. Both are without spikes. On my suggestion to definitely go on the ice, one of them noticed that he had already registered 4 times :) Ie. fell.
And indeed, the guys were very bad at riding against a strong east wind. They drove slowly, fell, they were blown away by the wind.
The photo shows a strip of my spikes. Yes, it was scary to drive on very smooth ice, but braking has not gone anywhere, you can still ride standing up.
Tellingly, it is very difficult to stand on this ice and even in the wind, but riding a bicycle is incomparably easier. Tires hold ice just amazing. Yes, I was embarrassed to allow myself to make lean turns and tried to drive as smoothly as possible without sudden movements. Therefore, the limit of the possibilities of tires with homemade spikes I haven't found yet.
As a result, the guys without spikes and Lech, whose back was left without spikes, gave up and got ashore, and we continued on the ice. Soon we drove from below to the Lyapinsky Hills area, drove along the beam and returned to the city. Riding on a beam in which poorly trampled snow did not bring much pleasure and took a lot of energy. For some reason, my knee hurt. Probably, several circumstances overlapped each other: increased loads, cold, low landing.
On the streets of the city, a frozen slush of ice was waiting for us, trampled by people and rolled out by the wheels of cars, which turned into dangerous bumpy ice with ruts and small pits. Yes, often the wheel fell off some bump, but it immediately caught on spikes, and over time I got used to not being distracted by such trifles. Even shallow - up to 2 cm - longitudinal ruts from the wheels on the ice ceased to be noticed.
While the guys went to the store, Denis called me and reminded me that we planned to take a picture of "his charm", which became an intrigue for a whole week :) I returned back to Vostochny. A few dozen photos and home.
winter riding
A few notes and observations on winter driving.
The temperature in the morning was 12 degrees and may have risen a little during the trip. I dressed noticeably warmer than at 0 degrees, namely:
- two insulated cycling pants
- 3 pairs of socks, one of which is insulated, shoe covers, summer cycling shoes with contacts
- two pairs of gloves, one - velo, the second - knitted
- anti-aircraft gun, t-shirt with sleeves and fleece, Nalini thermal jacket, bright windbreaker.
- on the head are two ordinary Buff "a, one of which is non-original. Helmet. Glasses.
All this made me feel very comfortable. Not cold even in the wind. Unless at sea the little fingers on the hands could freeze, and on long stops - the toes. What is characteristic and did not sweat from overheating, although even in the park with many climbs I purposefully tried not to overheat. I didn’t have one mask on my face, but sometimes, when driving against the wind, I wanted to put it on. I think that up to 10 degrees below zero it is not really needed and driving without it is a habit. On the other hand, during active driving in the park on the slopes, I breathed cold air several times, but it turned out to be without consequences.
Conclusion
It turned out to be an excellent ride. Drove a total of 26.5 km. And guys under 50, because. drove from the center.
The tires turned out to be very good. The final budget amounted to 110 UAH. (80 UAH tires, 30 UAH screws). All the efforts expended were not in vain and moreover exceeded all expectations. Together we decided that on the ice my tires are better than the rest. Slightly behind were the Schwalbe Ice Spiker, which has smaller and not pointed spikes, but with sharp edges on cylindrical protrusions. Artem with Kenda Klondike lacked central studs, and Lekha should have studded the rear tire as well, so as not to walk uphill. Without spikes, and especially for the first time, driving is very dangerous.
We're going to try again next weekend. But this time you will have to fight more with the snow, which has fallen quite a lot.
You can find a lot of fans not only to eat ice cream in winter, but also to ride a bike, regardless of weather conditions. And some in this way seek to reduce travel time - it's easier to quickly get there on your two-wheeled transport than to spank for a long time in the slush, getting your feet wet. If you are a fan of autumn and, then you probably wondered how to make studded tires on a bicycle with your own hands. It's no secret that factory studded tires cost a fortune, and this applies even to Chinese-made tires. What can we say about branded models?
On the roads there are holes, ledges, stones, which are much more difficult to notice in puddles and slush, under ice and snow. So, in the autumn-winter period, the tire is much easier to damage. And if it is an expensive one that will have to be changed again, the burden on your budget may become excessive. There is a way out - to make spikes on the bike with your own hands. It's a lot easier than it looks and probably won't take more than a couple of hours. At the same time, the cost necessary details- minimal. So, we hiss your bike.
Items you will need
- Bicycle tire.
The tire itself, which we will stud. You can buy an inexpensive one, or you can take it, even an erased one that you planned to throw away. It is quite suitable to practice and understand how to make spikes on a bicycle, and it is likely that it will last a long time, and if necessary, you can easily make another one. But if you choose new tire, then it is better to give preference to the one with a deeper tread. It is desirable that in those places where you will add spikes, there is a thicker layer of rubber.
- Self-tapping screws with a wide hat.
Self-tapping screws 4.2 × 13 mm are best suited. The fact is that part of the self-tapping screw will go into the rubber, another part will be erased while driving. Therefore, shorter self-tapping screws may not be durable, but if there is no other option, then you can take a shorter one. A wide hat is needed for a good fixation of the self-tapping screw on the inside of the tire. By quantity, you need as many self-tapping screws as you want to add spikes to your bike.
- Super glue.
Any one you have on hand will do. All-purpose superglue will suffice. But if you choose glue specifically to make a studded bike tire, then you can use superglue for rubber.
- Awl or drill with a thin drill.
Of course, with a drill it will be much easier for you, but if there is no drill, an ordinary awl will do.
- Phillips screwdriver suitable for self-tapping screws.
- Old bicycle camera.
Put all the items next to you, take care of good lighting, since you have to find small holes on the tire, and get to work!
Instructions for creating studded tires
Next, we present detailed instructions how to make studded . Of course, first of all, the tire must be disassembled. After that, inspect it and select the places where the spikes will be. As mentioned above, it is better to choose places where the rubber is thicker, because the self-tapping screws will hold on to it more firmly and tears will not appear. You can also make spikes on the side of the tire so that they point towards the ground at an angle. With them, you will be more comfortable to ride the bike, as the side spikes will make it easier to take turns on an icy road.
It is best to make four rows of spikes: two rows at the bottom of the tire and two rows on the sides.
Now let's get straight to the process. Take a drill or an awl and do it through hole in the tread where the first spike will be. There is a little trick here that will greatly simplify the work.
Important! Make a puncture from the outside, not from the inside. So you will see exactly where the spike will come out and will not fall into a thin section of rubber.
Then, from the inside of the tire, squeeze a drop of superglue onto the hole. Take a self-tapping screw and use a screwdriver to screw it into the hole until it stops. It is not necessary to overtighten strongly, so as not to create an additional load on the rubber. At the same time, the head of the self-tapping screw should be tight enough to the tire for the superglue to lock it in place.
Important! Insert each self-tapping screw immediately after piercing. If you make all the holes first and then start to put in the screws, it will be very difficult for you to find the holes, especially if your tire is black on the inside.
Now you have a rather monotonous job of adding all the spikes. But it won't take too long. And when your tire is studded with spikes around the entire circumference, having acquired a rather futuristic look, you can enjoy the results of your work: do-it-yourself studded tires for a bicycle are ready!
There is only one final, but important detail: you need to make a gasket so that the heads of the self-tapping screws do not wipe the chamber of your bike. The easiest way is to make such a gasket from an old camera. But you can show creativity and use pieces of leather or other material. If nothing like this is available, just cut the old tube lengthwise and wrap it around the tube of your bike. You can lubricate it from the inside with superglue for better fixation. Put on your new studded tires on top and - go ahead, you can test it!
Be prepared for the fact that at first various debris, dry leaves and other objects that have fallen under will cling to the spikes. But over time, the screws will become a little dull and this problem will disappear. Good luck on the roads!
If you want to safely ride a bike in winter (and not only), then you need to take care of good grip of the wheels with snow, mud, sand, ice. You can buy studded tires, or you can make studded tires on your bike with your own hands.
In this article, let's look at a more affordable and cheaper option for how to do this.
How to stud bike tires
Option number 1: Alteration of the tire (large tread)
You will need:
- deep tread tire
- Small flat screws (package), in this case, short wood screws work well
1. Purchase a package of self-tapping screws from a hardware store.
2. Take a drill and a 2-3 mm drill. Drill holes in the places where you are going to install the spikes.
3. Try to screw in the self-tapping screw at a perpendicular angle (90 degrees) to the tire, it should not stick out to the side.
- Drill the hole and screw in the screw immediately. When you first screw the holes, and then screw in the screws, it will take you a lot of time to find the holes.
4. After these works, glue the inner surface of the tire with reinforced electrical tape (possible in 2 layers). You can also use special anti-puncture tapes in the tire instead of adhesive tape, which are sold at a bike shop. They will help protect the camera from being damaged by the screw heads.
5. Put the tire on the bike rim. Be careful during installation - you can injure your hands.
How to make studded bike tires
Option number 2: Tire modification (small tread)
You will need:
- bicycle tires with small tread
- A package of short bolts and a set of nuts corresponding to the thread. Bolts should be short, not massive, nuts should be no more than 1 cm high.
1. Dismantle the wheels of the bike, remove the tires from the wheels.
2. Determine the places in the tire where you can put the bolts (should be twisted between the rubber protection spikes, always in the center and preferably at the edges, but not close to the rim).
3. Mark the selected holes with a marker. Drill holes smaller than the thickness of the bolts (they will have to be screwed into the tire, but this way the bolts will not fail).
4. With the thread on the outside, tighten the bolts into the tire, then tighten the nuts onto the bolts with outer side tires. Then the nuts and bolt ends will work as spikes.
5. As in the first option, put anti-puncture tape inside the tire or glue it with reinforced electrical tape in a couple of layers.
6. Install tires, mount wheels on the bike.
Do-it-yourself studded tires on a bicycle
Option number 3: Use chain pieces as spikes
You will need:
- Bicycle or other small chain.
- Wire, small bolts and nuts, other metal clips.
1. This method is easier, but it is only suitable for bikes with disc brakes.
2. Purchase the required items.
3. Remove the wheels from the bike, measure the circumference of the rim + tire using a flexible meter.
4. Bite off the chain of the length obtained in the measurement.
5. Attach the cut chains around the rim and tire. This can be done with wire, bolts with nuts, other metal clamps.
6. Mount the wheels. If suddenly the wheels are not put in place - remove the plastic protection.
- Do-it-yourself tire studding on a bicycle takes a lot of time.
- Do not inflate the wheel chamber very much, a slightly lowered wheel has large area adhesion to the road surface.
- For stable driving on ice, winding the chain around the wheels (option No. 3) is best suited. The wheel should not be wide.
- An old chain from a bicycle is enough to wind one thin wheel of 28 diameters. During work, use a chain squeezer.
- Even if you put the chain only on the front, and on the back - a tire with an increased tread - the resulting bike design will be stable on snow and ice, sand.
- Do not try to drive on studded tires on stones - studs will not save you from such a road.
- To correctly put the chain on the wheel, first lower it, and when you fix the chain, pump it up. High blood pressure the chain will hold very well in the chamber.
- Anti-puncture tape can be made from a used tire with a low (slick) tread (bald), cut a strip of the required width from a used tire and put it inside the used one. If this design is cumbersome, you can cut a strip from the old tube and put it on rubber glue inside the tire you are using. Such tape protects the camera from punctures better than reinforced tape.
Warnings
- You must understand that cycling on slippery roads (snow, ice, mud), even on a bicycle with such a wheel modification, is fraught with falls and injuries. Therefore, if the road is very slippery and it is difficult to ride on it without falling off the bike, then it is better to use another means of transportation.
- The self-tapping screws have sharp enough edges that can pierce the camera if installed incorrectly or inattentively.
- Rubber studding is applicable for mountain bikes, it is not advisable to use narrow tires for this purpose.
- Do not pump the wheels as this may cause the bike to fall off.
- If you chose the 3rd option for wheel studding, you should understand that in the event of a chamber puncture, you will have to remove pieces of the chain and put it back on after repair.
- The 1st and 2nd options are not suitable for tubeless, if you drill a tire, you will break its tightness.
We hope the article helped the option of tire studding for a bicycle. Share in the comments what you did. Also watch a helpful video on this topic.
