≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

How to properly install a chimney from metal pipes. Proper chimney installation. Sample Finished Parts Required

The right device chimney for gas boiler in a private house is the basis for quality work heating. It is necessary to strictly observe the rules and regulations here, since, otherwise, it may jeopardize the safety of the residents of the house. We will analyze in more detail how chimneys for gas boilers are equipped: requirements and recommendations in our today's article.

Regardless of the location of the chimney, there are certain installation rules

Chimney requirements and installation rules

Installation of a chimney and ventilation for a gas boiler takes place subject to the standards for installing a chimney SNiP 2.04.05, while taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations:

The size of the channel is chosen the same as that of the boiler bell or a little more. The height of the pipe is at least 5 meters.

In rooms with a traditional hood, the exhaust air is compensated by its intake from the street and partially from other adjacent rooms.

The chimney is made of non-combustible material.

Important! It is forbidden to use a ventilation duct to remove smoke.

After commissioning a gas boiler or other equipment with a chimney, a chimney inspection report is drawn up.

Requirements for the installation of a chimney

Installation work is carried out by specialists using all regulatory rules. In doing so, they are as follows:

Anyone thermal unit corresponds to a single chimney.

The free and complete removal of smoke into the atmosphere is ensured due to the correctly selected height and size of the pipe section (clause 5.1.1. VDPO).

The wall thickness of the metal pipe is not allowed to be less than 2 mm.

For the manufacture of pipes, metal with a thickness of 2 mm is taken

To clean the smoke channels from soot, recesses with a size of about 250 mm are provided (clause 3.74 of SNiP-91 and clause 5.1.1. VDPO).

When installing the pipe, the smoke channels are made taking into account no more than three turns, and their rounding is equal to the diameter of the pipe (4.2.17.VDPO).

Chimney for a gas boiler in a private house and exhaust pipe installed above the roof ridge in accordance with clause 3.73.SNiP-91: up to 0.5 m - with flat roof; at the level and above the roof itself - when the pipe is located more than 1.5 meters from the roof ridge.

Metal chimneys are made of high quality alloy steel with anti-corrosion coating.

Types of chimneys

Pipes are made from different materials, which we will consider in more detail.

Brick

Classic brick chimneys for a gas boiler are still in demand, regardless of their many disadvantages and poor thermal performance. At the same time, they answer sanitary standards and rules that say:

The pipe is made of fireclay bricks.

For the construction of walls, a solution of clay or special glue is used.

To improve draft, the chimney rises above the level of the roof ridge.

Standards regulate the height of the pipe in relation to the roof ridge, depending on the distance between them

The masonry provides tightness.

At the inner hole, the deviation is no more than 3 mm per 1 m.

To protect against precipitation, a deflector is installed on the head of the pipe.

And also the chimney can have a mono design, which, due to low thermal characteristics, is repaired every 5-7 years.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of warming houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

galvanized pipe

The sandwich device is today the most effective option from structures for the chimney. The undoubted advantage of these chimneys is their resistance to aggressive environments and various mechanical influences.

The product consists of two pipes different size, with one nested within the other. Basalt wool is usually used as a filler between them.

Currently, gas boilers use closed-type combustion chambers. Here, air intake and smoke removal are produced by a coaxial pipe. This is an original device, relatively recently introduced, but already very popular among users.

The non-standard solution lies in the intake of air through a pipe that removes combustion products. It turns out that one pipe performs two functions due to the design features.

A coaxial chimney is a pipe in a pipe

A characteristic difference from conventional pipes it is as follows ... A smaller pipe (60-110mm) is located in a pipe of a larger diameter (100-160mm) in such a way that they do not touch each other.

At the same time, the structure is a single whole due to the jumpers along the entire length and is a rigid element. The inner pipe serves as a chimney, and the outer pipe serves as fresh air.

Air exchange at different temperatures creates traction and sets the air mass in a directed motion. The air in the room is not used during the operation of the boiler, thus maintaining the microclimate in the room.

Ceramic

This chimney is composite structure, which includes:

Smoke duct made of ceramic material.

Insulation layer or air space.

Claydite concrete outer surface.

This complex design is due to several reasons. First, the chimney pipe is too fragile to be left unprotected.

A ceramic pipe is always located inside a solid block.

Secondly, ceramics has a high thermal conductivity, and therefore it needs reliable insulation. The inner tube of a circular cross section has a smooth surface, while on the outer tube, roughnesses are allowed that do not affect the integrity of the product.

Typically, such chimneys are available in lengths from 0.35 to 1 m, depending on the manufacturer. The connection of the inner and outer pipes occurs by means of a lock, which is a thinning along external dimension on one end and an extension of the inner tube on the other side.

Important! Docking of these pipes is carried out strictly along the center line.

Expanded clay concrete outer surface is made of a square shape with round hole inside. In addition, this product provides a place for a heater, which is held by metal jumpers. At the same time, they are fixed on the outer surface and make a reliable fastening for this pipe.

Stainless steel

A gas chimney made of steel seems to be more reliable than a brick one. They are resistant to corrosion, immune to temperature fluctuations, they are not affected by increased air humidity and aggressive environments.

In addition, these pipes of stainless steel have a number of advantages:

Long period of operation.

Multifunctionality.

Relatively low cost.

Great strength.

Probable realization of a product of any complexity.

For chimneys made of this material, an assembly of modules is characteristic, which allows the replacement of a damaged segment if necessary. The installation of chimneys is made with the help of special bends that allow them to harmoniously fit into certain elements of the roof.

The main mistakes when choosing a flue for a gas boiler

The most common mistakes when installing a pipe for a gas boiler in a private house are:

Illiterately chosen height and section of the pipe.

Lack of heat-insulating material when installing an external chimney or in a transition hole into an unheated attic space.

Failure to comply with PPB (fire safety rules).

The pipe that discharges gas from the boiler is led into the brick channel shaft without sleeves, which leads to the rapid destruction of this hole.

Installation of steel chimneys made of material that does not meet the requirements (resistance to aggressive environments, high temperatures or thin walls).

Video description

You can see a few rules for choosing chimneys in the video:

The installation of the chimney is divided into several stages - this is preparatory work, direct installation, then connection, launch and, if necessary, debugging of the entire system.

General requirements

When combining several heat generating installations, a separate chimney is created for each of them. In exceptional cases, a tie-in to a common chimney is allowed, but at the same time, a difference in height of at least one meter must be observed.

First, the parameters of the chimney are designed and calculated, which are based on the recommendations of the manufacturers of gas boilers.

When summarizing the calculated result, the inner section of the pipe cannot be less than the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe. And according to the check according to NPB-98 (fire safety standards), the initial speed of the natural gas flow should be 6-10 m / s. And besides, the cross section of such a channel must correspond to the overall performance of the unit (8 cm 2 per 1 kW of power).

Installation steps

Chimneys for gas boilers are mounted outside (add-on system) and inside the building. The simplest is the installation of the outer pipe.

Installing a chimney at a wall-mounted boiler is done as follows:

A hole is cut in the wall. Then a piece of pipe is inserted into it.

A vertical riser is assembled.

The joints are sealed with a refractory mixture.

Fixed with wall brackets.

An umbrella is attached to the top to protect it from rain.

An anti-corrosion coating is applied if the pipe is made of metal.

Proper installation of the chimney guarantees its impermeability, good draft, and prevents soot from accumulating. Installation performed by specialists will significantly reduce the cost of maintaining this system.

In the case of arranging an opening for a pipe in the roof of a house, special boxes with aprons are used. In this case, the design as a whole is influenced by such factors as:

The material from which the pipe is made.

Exterior design of the chimney.

Type of roofing.

The main factor influencing the choice of design is the temperature of the gas that passes through the pipe. At the same time, according to the standards, the distance between the chimney pipe and combustible materials must be at least 150 mm. The most advanced is the assembly system by segments, where all elements are assembled by cold forming.

Video description

How the chimney pipe is installed, see the following video:

Connecting a ceramic chimney

Ceramic chimneys themselves are almost eternal, but since this is a rather fragile material, you need to clearly imagine how the connection (docking) of the metal part of the chimney and the ceramic one is correctly performed.

Docking can be done only two ways:

By the smoke- a metal pipe is inserted into a ceramic one. It is important to remember here that the outer diameter of the metal pipe should be smaller than that of the ceramic one. Since the thermal expansion of the metal is much greater than that of ceramics, otherwise the steel pipe, when heated, will simply break the ceramic one.

By condensate- a metal pipe is put on a ceramic one.

For both methods, specialists use special adapters, which, on the one hand, are equipped with a gasket for contact with a metal pipe, and on the other, which contacts directly with the chimney, are wrapped with a ceramic cord.

Docking should be carried out through a single-wall pipe - it has a higher heat transfer coefficient. This means that the smoke will have time to cool down a little before it reaches the adapter, which ultimately extends the life of all materials.

Video description

Read more about connecting to a ceramic chimney in the following video:

Conclusion

VDPO shows great requirements for chimneys for gas boilers, because of this, it must be installed by specialized teams. Since a competent installation guarantees not only long-term operation of the device, but also makes safe conditions living in a private house.

1 General rules for the design and assembly of chimneys

The design and installation of chimneys must be carried out in accordance with the current regulations:

SNiP 41-01-2003; VDPO (RULES FOR THE PRODUCTION OF WORK, REPAIR OF FURNACES AND SMOKE CHANNELS); SP 7.13130.2009.

The task of the chimney is to remove combustion products and provide normal draft to maintain combustion. The level of draft depends on the height of the smoke channel and the diameter of the chimney.

When installing the chimney, the following rules must be observed:

• Chimney height from heater to the head should be at least 5 m.
• The elevation of the chimney above the ridge / parapet is determined according to the diagram (Fig. 1).

• The elevation of the chimney above the closely spaced roofs of neighboring buildings must be at least 1.5 meters.
• If the chimney rises above the roof by 1.5 meters or more, it must be additionally secured with braces (Fig. 2).
• In the design of the chimney, it is recommended to provide plugs with a condensate trap to remove the resulting condensate and / or revision to allow cleaning and maintenance of the smoke channel

• If the roof is made of combustible materials, a spark arrester made of mesh with a mesh size of no more than 5 x 5 mm should be installed in the chimney.
• When designing and assembling a chimney, narrowing the diameter of the chimney is not allowed, but its broadening is allowed. (For example, to assemble a chimney heating furnace with a chimney outlet diameter of 115 mm, a 110 mm chimney cannot be used, but a 120 mm chimney can be used using an adapter from 115 mm to 120 mm).
• The length of the horizontal section of the chimney should not exceed 1 meter.
• The joints of the chimney elements should not coincide with the places of ceiling and roof passages, passages in the wall.
• Elbows and tees must be installed so that they do not bear the weight of the chimney elements installed above them.

2 Chimney design and calculation of mounting elements

CHIMNEY DIAMETER. The diameter of the chimney must be equal to or greater than the diameter of the outlet of the heater. To switch from one diameter to another, the "Adapter" element of the corresponding diameter is used.

SELECTION OF THE TYPE OF PIPE. The use of a conventional pipe or an insulated pipe depends on the location of the chimney. Ordinary pipes are used only in heated rooms. The warmed pipes can be applied in heated and not heated rooms, and outside of rooms. The choice between a conventional and insulated pipe in heated rooms is made by the consumer, comparing the cost, fire safety and comfort during operation. To switch from a conventional chimney pipe to an insulated pipe, use the "Transition from non-insulated to insulated" pipe.

BASE PLATFORM. The choice of chimney design with or without the use of the “Cantilever Bracket” support platform is determined by the design of the heater and the location of the chimney.

Without a support platform, it is only possible to use a flat vertical chimney leaning directly on the heater. Figure #3.

In all other cases, it is necessary to use the "Cantilever Bracket" support pad. Figures 4, 5, 6. The location of the supporting element "Cantilever bracket" should be at least 5 meters along the height of the chimney.

TURNING THE CHIMNEY. To change the direction of the chimney, use the "Bend or outlet insulated at 45 or 90 degrees"

COLLECTING CONDENSATE AND CLEANING THE CHIMNEY. To collect condensate from the chimney and clean the chimney, a “Tee or tee insulated at 45 or 90 degrees” is used together with the “Plug with a condensate drain” or “Blind plug” element.

PASSAGE THROUGH THE CEILING. If the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to use the element "Insulated ceiling passage". Which should be 70 mm more than the thickness of the ceiling.

IMPORTANT

• In some heat generating devices (furnaces, boilers) there may be an increased temperature of the exhaust gases. This will require additional insulation building structures and individual study of the ceiling through node to ensure fire safety. During the operation of the chimney, it is necessary to control the temperature on the outer surface of the element “Insulated passage through the ceiling” and, if necessary, replenish the insulation layer when it shrinks.
• The surface of the chimney during operation heats up. If the chimney passes near building structures made of combustible materials, it should not heat them above 50 ° C (clause 4.39.8 of GOST R 53321-2009).

PASSAGE THROUGH THE ROOF. If the chimney passes through the roof, then it is necessary to use the “Roof passage” element or the “Rubber seal for roof” element, straight or angled. When installing the chimney through the roof, the current building and fire regulations must be observed.

CHIMNEY COMPLETION. To complete the chimney, standard elements "Umbrella" or "Insulated Umbrella" are used.

IMPORTANT
- For gas-fired heating systems, the chimney must remain open!

CHIMNEY FASTENING. The fastening must exclude the possibility of deflection and any displacement of the chimney from the wind or its own weight. For this, the "Wall Mount" element is used, which is installed at the rate of: 1 mount for every 2 meters of the chimney.

To calculate the required number of elements, draw a chimney diagram, taking into account all the above rules and recommendations. The number of straight sections of bends and tees is determined by the layout of the chimney and its design. Typical schemes chimney assemblies are shown in figures 3 to 6.

3 Chimney assembly

• Installation of the chimney starts from the bottom, from the heating or heating device upwards. To be able to regulate the draft, install the "Shiber" element in the chimney.
• It is recommended to collect the elements of the chimney "by condensate" so that condensate and tar deposits do not go outside.
• All joints of pipes and other elements (bends, tees, etc.) must be sealed with heat-resistant mastic-sealant, carefully connected to each other throughout the entire depth of the landing socket and fastened with the “Clamp” element in EVERY connection.
• After installation, a test furnace should be carried out, during which it is necessary to check the tightness of the joints and make sure that the adjacent structures made of combustible materials are not exposed to high temperatures and do not heat up.

When using the chimney for the first time, there may be an odor and light smoke, which is formed as a result of the evaporation of oil residues from the metal surface and the crystallization of sealing materials.

When heating a stainless steel chimney, including a double-walled chimney, tint colors may appear on its surface, which is not a defect. The chimney needs maintenance. The chimney should be cleaned regularly, at least 2 times during the heating season.

Do you dream of building an economical, safe and warm house? Then you should turn to modern technologies, which intelligently combine centuries of experience, ingenuity and sometimes completely unexpected technical solutions. good to that an example is a two- and three-circuit chimney, inside of which there is insulation. Who would have thought a couple of decades ago that something like this was even possible? Moreover, such a chimney really has many valuable advantages, it is only important to do everything according to the stove rules, without deviating one iota from them.

Proper installation of a sandwich chimney begins with the design of the house. Only when making a drawing, you can correctly comply with absolutely all the requirements for fire safety standards, and then nothing will have to be redone or even rebuilt. If the house or bath is already ready, then it will be necessary to make all the calculations as accurately as possible. We advise you, if you undertook to make such a chimney yourself, approach this issue with all responsibility - you are doing it for yourself.

A small introduction regarding the benefits. In private housing construction in Russia, it is sandwich chimneys that are most widely used, although the choice is quite wide. It's all about the design of such a chimney, which promises ease of use and safety.

Before proceeding with the installation, you will see that such a chimney consists of two pipes different diameter, which are inserted into each other, and the space between them either remains open or is filled with non-combustible insulation. At such a chimney high speed installation, low weight of the entire system, absolutely smooth inner walls, good traction and minimal soot formation.

And now the most important thing: you can not install a chimney without special training. For this, there is a so-called passport - a document that you receive when buying such a unit. Usually there is schematic representation And detailed instructions installation.

And how to properly mount a chimney from a sandwich pipe and ensure its reliable functioning, this video clip perfectly demonstrates:

If, in addition, your chimney will be a complex device, then at least you will need to show it to a specialist later to make sure that such a design is reliable and practical:

How to bring the chimney through the interfloor overlap

Any chimney is always the most dangerous source of fire, because. temperature flue gases is extremely high. And even the slightest violation of the installation of a chimney inside a residential building can lead to dangerous consequences.

So, in order to organize the passage of the chimney through wooden structures, it is necessary to make or purchase ceiling duct. It must exactly match the outer diameter of the pipe. Thanks to this design, the chimney is at a distance from all nearby surfaces that may come into contact with it:

The easiest way, of course, is to purchase a factory-made chimney assembly and simply overlay it on all sides heat-insulating material. Perfect option- basalt wool, if it is really of high quality and can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, when buying one, you must definitely check whether the manufacturer has indicated that cotton wool is allowed to be used at temperatures above 800 degrees Celsius. Naturally, such cotton wool is more expensive than usual, but it makes no sense to save on it, and you probably understand this well.

Here is an option for manufacturing an asbestos-cement box for an interfloor node:

According to the current SNiPs, when the chimney passes through wood flooring, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 38 cm from the inner sandwich pipe to the wooden structure. Moreover, the box should not be empty, but filled with special material.

Yes, of course, sometimes the distance between the rafters does not allow you to adhere to this parameter, and then you have to increase the opening with the help of additional bars. And it is recommended to protect the logs of a wooden structure, as well as rafters with a crate, using a galvanized sheet or asbestos sheet at least 5 mm thick. A galvanized sheet is good in that it not only prevents the spread of fire, but also dissipates heat evenly, preventing it from being concentrated pointwise. It also shields and reflects the hard thermal radiation that comes from the pipe.

This is the main advantage of the sandwich, because if you install a conventional single-pipe steel chimney, such a distance should be at least 50 centimeters.

Support the pipe vertical position Here are some metal fasteners that will help:

How to secure the joint of the chimney with a wooden floor?

And now we will touch on the most important point, the knowledge of which will help you avoid a completely unexpected fire.

So, the higher the temperature of the flue gases, the more the sandwich pipe heats up, and that's it. structural elements around it are exposed to temperature. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that the passage elements are reliably protected. And do not think that everything is so simple.

For example, an ordinary tree without special protection is already charred at a temperature of 200 degrees. And dried wood can even catch fire at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius! If, however, influence wooden logs more than a day at a temperature of 170 degrees, they are also capable of catching fire. Unfortunately, it is this moment, which many do not know about, that often causes fires, even if a high-quality sandwich pipe is installed.

Therefore, the overlap is desirable to perform with good insulation of sufficient thickness so that the heat from the pipe to the wall and wooden elements almost didn't get it. In addition, the more the wood floor itself accumulates heat from the sandwich, the worse the wood will perceive this heat each time. Of course, in an hour or two, the usual insulation in the PPU unit does not have time to warm up to a critical temperature, but the problem is that, speaking in the language of stove-makers, after heating, heat accumulates in wood and insulating materials, and gradually changes their chemical composition.

For example, with prolonged and constant accumulative heating, wood can catch fire already at a temperature of 130 degrees! But on the outside of the sandwich, it often reaches up to 200 degrees (from 75 to 200, as laboratory tests have shown). So, such a sad thing happens when the stove or fireplace was successfully heated for more than one year, everything was wonderful, and then one day the owners drowned only 2 hours longer and hotter than usual (to warm up on a particularly cold winter evening or heat a steam room for guests) , and the temperature in the sandwich crossed the critical temperature, and the same temperature of 130 degrees Celsius reached the wood of the ceiling, already dried over the years.

You also need to be careful if PPU is used as a heat-insulating material mineral wool. Over time, from exposure to high temperatures, it also changes its properties and even becomes more thermally conductive! This does not mean that the wool is one day at risk of catching fire, but the outer contour of the chimney in this place will already be much hotter than you originally expected. But this is a factor that was not initially taken into account!

That is why experienced stove-makers are advised not to make the floor insulation too dense (the denser it is, the more heat accumulates in itself). Moreover, the natural possibility of blowing air through the pipe is vital:

They often make a dangerous mistake, poorly calculating the distance between the rafters for the passage of a pipe, which does not correspond to the norm. Also note that the empty ceiling node, in which thermal insulation was not installed at all, is also not the best option.

Also keep in mind that the material that envelops the inner arc of the chimney tends to settle slightly over time. As a result, the junction of the two walls is sometimes unprotected. And, if this joint burns out (and it is especially dangerous if it is also located inside the ceiling), then the fire that has arisen in such voids will be almost impossible to extinguish. Therefore, once a year or two, all the passage nodes of the sandwich chimney should be carefully examined.

Here is how the passage of the sandwich chimney through the ceiling is properly organized in the very simple version:

If you will install a water tank on the chimney, then the whole installation should look like this:

Pay attention to how the passage of the sandwich pipe through the floor should be performed:

And finally, if it is not possible to put a stove or fireplace directly under the place where the sandwich pipe is removed, you will need a special tee:

Organization of the node through the walls of the house or bath

Today, installing a sandwich chimney is practiced in two main ways: inside the house or outside. Indeed, more and more often you can see that chimneys are mounted directly through the wall to the street, and from the first floor - and from there they are already directed vertically upwards. And this makes sense: this way the chimney cools down much faster, and does not pass through fireproof ceilings and roofs. On the other hand, a chimney that rises through the attic usually serves as an additional heating element. But the risk of fire here, of course, will already be higher.

You will be surprised, but in fact, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not far from the temperature of a single-circuit chimney. After all, in fact, such a chimney was originally designed to improve draft, and therefore the gases that exit the furnace usually have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, and the outer casing can warm up to 300 degrees! And this is far from a fireproof surface.

A modern sandwich chimney is led both through the roof and directly through the walls of a residential building:

You can see the node in more detail in this illustration:

So organize correct angle the passage of a sandwich chimney through the walls will help you this step-by-step instruction:

• Step 1. Before starting work, be sure to calculate the length of the horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be passed through the wall. And take into account the tee that you will install. Calculate the slope of the roof so that the chimney does not end up too close to the eaves.
• Step 2. Fill the box that you insert into the wall with non-combustible basalt material.
• Step 3. Close the passage assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
• Step 4. Close the edges of such an assembly cover with a casing from the accessories exterior finish houses, for example, siding.
• Step 5. Treat the edges of the box with a colorless roofing sealant.
• Step 6 Install a revision at the outlet of the chimney from the wall.
• Step 7. Fix the chimney with special wall brackets, one for every 1.5-2 meters.
• Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality with a level.
• Step 9. Be sure to make sure that the seam is turned towards the house.

After all, the most important rule sounds like this: the chimney passage through the wall of a house or bath should be protected from fire as much as possible. Here is a good example of such a node:

In order for the horizontal element of the sandwich chimney to be installed securely, it must be properly supported metal corner:

Special designs will also help to fix such a chimney to the wall in a strictly vertical position:

Believe me, at this stage the work is not over yet, especially if your chimney will have complex structure(Which we strongly advise against):

The device for the passage of a sandwich chimney through the eaves and roof

The passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof must be done according to the same principles as the passage through the ceiling. At the same time, the distance to wooden structures should be sufficient. And at this stage it is important not to make a dangerous mistake.

Yes, the chimney really cools down when passing through the roof, especially since the space around it is ventilated and therefore many people believe that it is possible to reduce the distance to the protected rafters. Indeed, for cold roof this is really a suitable option, but for insulated it is necessary to adhere to the same distances and norms as for interfloor floors.

To output a sandwich chimney through the roof, a special roof cutting is used. You can purchase absolutely any one, adapted to the angle of your roof and its slopes. And you need to mount the roof cutting from above, turning its edge under the roof ridge.

Here is what the sandwich chimney pass through the cornice should be like:

To bring the sandwich chimney to the roof, you will need to make a hole of sufficient width in the roofing:

Moreover, at the stage of withdrawing a sandwich chimney through the roof, one cannot do without a roofing silicone sealant, which is rated for 1500 degrees of exposure to temperature.

When the chimney pipe passes through the sloping roof slopes, the hole itself and its insulation will already be slightly larger in area:

Particular care must be taken to lead the sandwich chimney through the roof if the roofing material itself is combustible. Do not forget that the metal itself, of course. will not light up, but the roofing paint - completely. To do everything correctly, follow these steps:

• Step 1. Start cutting the corrugated board away from the future location of the pipe. It is about 30 centimeters above and more and 10 cm below and on the sides.
• Step 2. Make a galvanized steel roof groove for the pipe and install it starting from the bottom. The cutting should go on the corrugated board at least 15 cm.
• Step 3. Remove the top sheet of corrugated board and lay the top part of the roof groove, then cover its sides by 20 cm.
• Step 4 Install the removed corrugated sheet and secure it.
• Step 5. Now close and seal the seams to avoid further leaks.
• Step 6 Insulate the pipe with non-combustible material and fix it with annealed wire.
• Step 7. Make a chimney umbrella from galvanized steel.
• Step 8. Now, once again seal with welded roofing materials, heated or self-adhesive.

By the way, if you are working with a metal roofing, then it is possible to fix the chimney in such a place using bent trimmings of the roof itself:

In general terms, assembling a chimney outside the walls of the house is practically the same as installing it inside:

All these rules are invented for a reason, because they are based on practical research and fire statistics. Therefore, if you do not want your house to become a sad example for others, follow all the instructions to the last, and even more: always try at least a little, but play it safe, because life is full of unpredictable situations. Study carefully all the subtleties and nuances of the process of installing modern chimneys - and sleep well!

No heating device can work without a good exhaust system. Often during construction country house forgot to include a chimney in the project. In this case, you have to lay it directly through the wall. Many people decide to make a chimney with their own hands. This problem is solved in several ways. Starting from classic and embedding into the main frame of the house, and including complex or other modern materials. All options differ in complexity, materials, labor and time costs, efficiency and heat capacity, and the ability to increase the efficiency of the heating installation.

Most suitable option is a construction of steel pipes - a chimney-sandwich. Do-it-yourself installation, as a rule, does not cause difficulties if you understand the sandwich chimney device.

The main advantages of sandwich chimneys

1. metal pipes are a long-established and widespread element of smoke ducts. This is due to a number of reasons.
2. Pipes have round section, through which gas exchange between the furnace and the environment is easier. This is important for organizing the movement of air flows inside the chimney.
3. Only pipes allow you to arrange smooth and even surface on which combustion products do not settle, and even if they do, it happens evenly and is easily removed by cleaning.
4. Do-it-yourself chimney installation is much easier compared to similar brick chimneys.

The gases passing through the smoke channels are saturated chemically aggressive impurities, therefore, they cause corrosion of the metal, which occurs against the background of temperature fluctuations, changes in humidity and other conditions. In this case, the service life of the chimney is reduced tenfold, so more resistant substances, such as stainless steel, are added to the pipe material. Except corrosion phenomena, and some other difficulties arise.

• High metal conductivity behind a short time reduces the temperature of the gases passing through the pipes, as a result, it turns out that the sandwich chimney, starting from the place where the bracket is attached, cools down, most of the heat is stored inside the room.
• As a result, a significant temperature contrast at different ends of the pipe simultaneously provokes a linear expansion of the bodies under the influence of the energy of fuel combustion, and is formed on the surfaces.
• The outer wall of the pipe is heated to a temperature dangerous for objects environment, so an additional thermal insulation layer, which does not let excess heat out.

The creators of sandwich chimneys managed to solve these problems.

Read also: Ceiling cutting for the chimney

Sandwich chimney device

Thanks to the British, who like to call everything that consists of two layers and a filling a sandwich, the chimney got its name. Sandwich consists of two pipes different diameters (internal and external metal contours). Inside between them there is a powerful insulating material, which is usually made from basalt rocks.

The chimney is made up of many parts. First, this pipes, Secondly - bracket, thirdly - other details: clamps, adapters, tees, pipes with revision, providing correct work design and effective use construction materials. The bracket allows you to comfortably mount the chimney to the wall with your own hands.

The meaning of such a device is in efficient operation, in particular, in removing products from the furnace. The outer circuit is reliably protected from overheating, and the inner circuit from temperature contrast. The layer between them reliably protects against the appearance of moisture, condensate and efflorescence on the surface of the pipes; thrust, which should occur in the air currents, works properly.

Inner pipe always thicker and covered with a thick layer of stainless steel, which has enhanced properties against corrosion and burnout. Outer contour, as a rule, are made more economically, at a lower cost, from ordinary galvanized iron. The installer must choose between price and quality, since the difference between stainless steel and galvanized iron is very large. Inner contour material should be chosen based on knowledge of its resistance to thermal contrasts and high humidity, corrosive properties. The outer pipes must be rigid because they are the skeleton of the structure.

Preparing for installation

When installing smoke channels from sandwich pipes with your own hands, you do not need to build an additional cement foundation, as required by a chimney made of brick or ceramic masonry, because thanks to small weight the design acquires another advantage of a metal installation over ceramics and bricks. But do not underestimate the task before you, because you need not just fix the bracket, although it is really easy to do it yourself.

Read also: Weather vane for chimney

Do not forget about the existence of a number of rules and recommendations that need to be understood and thought out even at the stage of choosing tools and materials. Please note that it will play into the hands of the ability to draw a diagram of the designed installation, defining all the dimensions on it. Experts with experience, who probably know how to install a sandwich chimney, are often advised to pay attention to points such as ceilings, etc.

Sometimes the boiler or furnace firebox is mounted on the subfloor. In such calculations, it is necessary to calculate thickness of all layers of the floor, not forgetting about the installation of floor surfaces, and install the heaters on stands so that the installation fits perfectly into the outlet for the exhaust of combustion products.

Chimney installation

Installation of a sandwich chimney start from the outgoing end of the pipe heating equipment. The first part of the chimney looks like a piece of pipe that is not covered with insulating layers. First, the bracket is fixed, and the pipe is already on it. If you start to mount the structure from a solid sandwich pipe, the insulation material will melt, a stone formation will form that will destroy the chimney. For this the bracket must be installed at a height, protecting against overheating. result incorrect installation most often it becomes a defect in heat-generating equipment, and even ignition of flammable materials.

The part is driven into the socket, fixed by installing the bracket, and closed with a plug. Then the parts of the chimney structure are interconnected in order, fixing the pipe joints with crimping clamps.

If there is a possibility of a noticeable increase in pressure in the channel, the connection points, just in case, are also closed special couplings. Often, when installing steel pipes, heat-resistant sealants are used to cover the joints. The more isolated the chimney, the more correct the draft.

Despite the excellent insulating properties of "sandwiches", some risk of overheating and ignition materials adjacent to the pipe. To guarantee a certain level of fire safety, it is advised to increase the thickness of the thermal insulation layer at the joints.

Despite the rich assortment of electric and gas boilers on the modern market, solid fuel stoves are in no hurry to give up their positions. Due to the autonomy of use and affordable price, they are the best choice for country houses, dachas and baths.

For the correct and safe operation of the furnace, it is necessary to correctly design and install the chimney. But often, at the stage of building a house, people miss the need to install a chimney at the same time as building walls. This problem has many solutions: output through floors, roofs. The best option would be to install a chimney through the wall, which will help not only significantly save the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe interior, but also reduce the number of nodes, passages through the floors.

How to properly install, and what materials are best to use - we will tell in this article.

Despite the huge selection of materials for the construction of chimneys, most wide use today received double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich".

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical specifications. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

Therefore, for mounting a chimney through a wall, the most the best option will be the purchase of sandwich pipes. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

Advantages and disadvantages of a sandwich pipe

• The heat-insulating layer prevents the outer pipe from heating up to a critical temperature.
• Compactness and versatility of use.
• The smooth surface of the inner casing increases the draft of the chimney.
• Low price compared to ceramic material.
• Operating temperature up to 850 degrees (for single-circuit pipes, for comparison, 500 0).
• Easy assembly.
• Increased fire safety of the home.
• Easy maintenance compared to a solid pipe chimney (less soot accumulates).
• Does not create additional noise when drafting smoke.

The only drawback of the multi-layer construction can be called a decrease in sealing after a long time. Due to sudden changes in temperature, air can penetrate at the junction of sections.

Specifications of sandwich pipe

1. Material. As a heat-insulating material, basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent heat-insulating/sound-insulating properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. For the inner casing, more expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly produced by galvanized steel, while the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

1. Connection type. Elements of sandwich pipes are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but a large amount of sealant is needed to ensure tightness, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, so that the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for a very precise fit of all parts.

Chimney installation rules

1. In no case should the chimney be laid in the place where communications pass (electrical wiring, sewerage, etc.).
2. To minimize heat loss, most of the structure is recommended to be located indoors.
3. The outer part of the chimney must end with the installation of a deflector to prevent precipitation from entering. Don't forget about the snow guard. They will protect the gas outlet from damage.
4. Observe the step of fixing the structure to the wall no more than one meter in order to avoid further curvature of the chimney.
5. The place where the pipe passes through the wall must be additionally protected with heat-insulating material. To do this, the diameter of the hole must be made slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe.
6. The sandwich pipe cannot be installed as the first pipe above the firebox. It is preceded by the so-called "sandwich start".
7. The length of horizontal straight sections of the chimney should not exceed 1 m.
8. When designing a chimney, keep in mind that when passing through the wall there is a solid pipe without joints. All connections must be visible and directly accessible.

Choosing the type of chimney outlet

The chimney through the wall can be done in two ways. The first option involves raising the pipe closer to the ceiling with a subsequent exit. The second option is a design that goes immediately from the boiler in a straight line.

In the second option, almost the entire chimney is outside the house. The advantage of this type of design is that only one elbow will need to be used, which will affect the traction efficiency. Yes, and the likelihood of soot plugs is much less.

Before execution installation work, it is necessary to draw an assembly plan, calculating the diameter of the chimney and its height. In doing so, some factors should be taken into account.

Warm air rises, which means that the higher the chimney, the greater the thrust. It also depends on the diameter, so it is very important to correctly determine what size chimney you need. The power of the heater also affects its size.

We calculate the diameter of the structure

The diameter of the double-circuit pipe directly depends on the size of the nozzle of the boiler plant. Therefore, it is difficult to draw an installation diagram without knowing what type of heater will be used. A simple rule applies here: the inner casing of the sandwich should in no case be smaller than the pipe itself. You can take more.

For example, if the diameter of the outlet pipe is 120 mm, then the internal diameter of the sandwich pipe must be the same size or larger. In no case should "narrowing" at the junction of pipes and throughout the entire chimney be allowed, otherwise this may affect the draft.

The type of heater also affects the diameter of the chimney. Therefore, if you are building a smoke exhaust structure before buying a stove or boiler, then immediately consider its power.

If the power of the heater does not exceed 3.5 kW, then the diameter of the inner casing can be limited to 80 mm. For more powerful boilers (up to 5.2 kW), the pipe size should be increased to 95 mm. The larger the diameter of the inner tube, the faster it will cool.

Determine the height of the chimney

The calculation of the height of the chimney pipe depends on the overall height of the house. With an insignificant height of the house (up to 5 meters), the height of the chimney in any case should be at least 5 meters. A short chimney can cause "smoke" at home, and the power of the device is significantly reduced due to poor draft. And an excessively long pipe will increase fuel consumption, as if “forcing” the operation of the heater, which affects the low efficiency of the heating system.

The optimal length of the pipe is considered to be a range of 5-10 meters.

If the house is higher than 10 meters, then we are guided by the roof ridge. The chimney must be 0.5 meters higher than the ridge so that no turbulence is created. Consider the material from which the roof is made. If the roof is covered with combustible material, then the upper part of the chimney must be at a distance of 1 meter from the ridge.

How will we assemble the sandwich: by smoke or condensate?

Before proceeding to construction work, you should decide on the type of assembly of the pipes themselves: “by smoke” or “by condensate”.

The construction “by smoke” is characterized by the build-up of sections inward (clearly seen in the figure):

Inner tube: the lower element is inserted inside the upper element of the sandwich.

The outer tube is built in the same way as the inner tube. The lower section is inserted inside the upper contour.

Each next section builds up on the previous element, as if dressing from above. This type of chimney connection is best used in stoves with high temperature burning.

The condensate structure is built in the opposite way:

Inner Tube: Take the top section of the sandwich and insert it into the bottom section.

Outer pipe: Here you must proceed in the opposite way. Take the bottom element of the outer tube, and insert it inside the outer tube of the upper element.

With this construction, the condensate flows freely along the outer casing of the chimney into a special sump.

When is it better to use such an assembly scheme?

• at a low temperature of combustion products;
• for external installation of the chimney;
• in ovens with a long burning function;
• in furnaces with smoldering combustion.

Differences between smoke and condensate connections

Considering our task - to assemble a chimney outside the house, the choice of the type of sandwich connection is obvious. Pipes outside the house, exposed low temperatures, will cool faster, which means that the likelihood of condensation is high. Under the influence of moisture, soot begins to dissolve, forming acids. These substances pose a serious threat to the pipe surface.

What tools do you need to mount through a brick or concrete wall?

• screwdriver;
• construction gloves for hand protection;
• ladder;
• building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation);
• perforator (for holes in the wall).

What materials are needed for installation?

• metal box (pipe);
• dowel;
• set of sandwich pipes;
• silicone sealant (necessarily heat-resistant!);
• tee (necessary in order to change the direction of the smoke and connect the pipe directly to the furnace of the heating apparatus).
• knee (45 0 or 90 0);
• support console, bracket (the whole structure rests on it);
• clamps for connecting sections;
• plug (protective umbrella from precipitation and debris).

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney through a wall (brick or concrete)

• Preparatory work. Determine the location of the chimney.
• Installation of a heating device (fireplace, boiler, stove, etc.)
• Making a pipe exit hole through the wall.
• Installation of a branch pipe (metal box)
• Pipe and boiler connection.
• Pipe outlet and connection with a tee.
• Mounting the bracket to the wall and connecting with a tee.
• Installation of the chimney of the required height.
• Roof fixing and plug installation.

Video instruction for installing a chimney through the wall

Now let's take a closer look at each step of the instruction:

	We determine the place where the heater will be located, and therefore the chimney will be laid. Consider the overall design of the house, the exterior and laid communications. Ideally, the outer part of the chimney should run from the side of the gable. If this is not possible, then it will be necessary to install from the side of the slope, taking care of the safety and stability of the structure.
	We are preparing the place where the heater will be installed. The stove itself (fireplace, boiler) is installed on a non-combustible base. Make sure that the plane is perfectly flat. To do this, check it with a building level.
	With a marker on the wall we designate the future opening for the chimney passage. To do this, measure the height of the furnace and the flue pipe. Consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also fire regulations a heat-insulating layer that will need to be laid between the pipe and the wall. It doesn't matter what shape you make the hole: square or round. This does not affect fire safety in any way, if all standards are met. Consider box size. Double-check the size of the box and the markings on the wall several times. If everything matches, then proceed to cutting a hole.
	We make a hole in the wall through and through with a puncher. We carry out insulation from non-combustible materials. For brick or concrete walls mounting foam is suitable, but asbestos cloth can also be used.
	We insert a box of non-combustible material into the resulting opening. According to the PB norms, the thickness of the branch pipe must exceed the thickness of the ceilings by 7 cm.
	We mount the horizontal part of the chimney. To do this, we connect a single chimney(starter sandwich) with a nozzle, using the “smoke” method, that is, insert the starter sandwich inside the nozzle. Make sure that the connection runs strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.
	We fix the sandwich strictly in the center of the box, and lay the distance between the walls of the pipe and the opening with heat-resistant insulation (foiled mineral wool can be used). From the outside of the wall (from the street), we close the opening with a box plate.
	We bring the pipe through the wall to the street and connect the tee. The lower part of the tee is allocated for the collection of condensate. The element may end with a removable glass, which will periodically have to be removed and cleaned during the operation of the chimney. And it is better to purchase a model with a fitting and a small tap. Maintaining such a chimney will be much easier. It is enough to bring a hose to the fitting and unscrew the rotary valve, thus draining all the condensate. But keep in mind that the substances accumulated at the bottom of the tee are very toxic. Therefore, do not drain them through the hose directly to the house, but take them aside to a safe distance. Also, make sure that there are not a single joint in the way the sandwich passes through the wall. If the length of the pipe is not enough to lay through the hole with a solid structure, then cut the previous element with a hacksaw and make a joint to the entrance.
	We mount the support bracket using dowels with outer wall Houses. It will account for the main structure, so take care of its reliability and stability. The bracket can be built independently using stainless pipes, which are welded at an angle of 90 degrees, with an additional support.
	We assemble the chimney from separate sections of the sandwich according to the previously selected method (“by smoke” or “by condensate”). You can easily figure out how to do this, since one part of a double-circuit pipe is always of a smaller diameter. We “reinforce” the joints of the connected sections with metal clamps. Just wrap the clamp around the pipe, tighten it tightly around the diameter of the sandwich and twist it with bolts or nuts. Treat additionally the joint with sealant. The fastening step should be approximately at least 1 meter, but more frequent fixing is also allowed in order to avoid curvature of the chimney. Whichever assembly element you choose, it is best to mount elbows and tees “by condensate”. All joints are well treated with sealant.
	Along the length of the entire chimney, we fix the structure with additional ties and brackets. Make sure that the retainer does not fall on the junction of the pipes. The integral part of the double-circuit pipe is fixed. If the height of the pipe above the roof exceeds 2 meters, then it is necessary to fix it with a metal cable or an additional bracket under the roof.
	We put on a deflector or a protective umbrella on the upper part of the pipe, which prevents debris and precipitation from getting inside. The choice of deflector or protective hood determines the type of heater. According to building codes, the installation of a deflector on the chimney of a gas boiler is not performed. For such a device, it is better to install a weather vane. It will prevent the blowing of the gas boiler, the creation of turbulence and improve traction.

Instructions for installing a chimney through a wooden wall

In general, the installation process through wooden walls is similar to installing a chimney through a concrete or brick wall However, some nuances related to fire safety should be taken into account. The maximum temperature at which wood begins to char is 200 0 . At 300 0 it starts to burn.

Unlike the previous installation, here it is necessary to pay great attention to the insulation of the chimney channels through the floors, so as not to burn the house and smoke interior spaces. Moreover, this applies to the entire length of the chimney, starting from the heating boiler and ending with the roof of the house.

We need the following tools to work:

• screwdriver;
• sharp knife;
• electric drill (for attaching the bracket);
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• building level (to check the verticality of the chimney installation).

From the materials prepare:

• a metal box for passing through a wooden wall;
• dowel;
• sandwich pipes;
• sealant;
• tee;
• elbow (45 0 or 90 0) depending on the design of the chimney;
• bracket;
• clamps for connecting sections;
• asbestos cloth;
• foil mineral wool (for insulating the pipe opening);
• protective cap, spark-extinguishing mesh.

	We determine the place where the pipe exits (along a horizontal line from the furnace or under the ceiling). We draw with a pencil or marker the required diameter of the hole. counting general scheme designs, don't get carried away big amount bends and transitions, as this may affect the further efficiency of the heating system. Two or three transitions with a change in direction will be enough, and even then try to use a leading angle of 450. Also consider the distance of the chimney from the wall. According to fire safety requirements, it should be at least 50 cm for wooden walls.
	We are preparing a place on which the heating device will stand (fireplace, stove, boiler). Considering wooden floors, you need to complete the podium from cement screed above the floor to a height of 20 cm or (if this is not possible) lay a heat-resistant coating of galvanized steel - asbestos cardboard.
	If there are wooden walls at a distance of less than 50 cm, then it is necessary to build a protective screen made of bricks to the height of the boiler. When installing a solid fuel stove (potbelly stove), it is desirable brickwork from wooden wall separate with additional thermal insulation (asbestos-cement sheet). Make sure that the plane is perfectly flat. Check all the time with a building level.
	We make a hole in the wall (consider not only the diameter of the pipe, but also the place where the heat-insulating layer is laid between the pipe and the wall). We install a protective metal box. The distance between the inserted box and the wall is carefully isolated with basalt fiber. Additionally, to increase fire safety, we wrap the passing pipe with an asbestos cloth.
	We remove the pipe from the boiler strictly at an angle of 900. This is very important point and here any deviations are not allowed, since subsequently this will affect the efficiency of the heater. We make sure that there is no pipe joint on the section of the transition through the wall. If you see that the length of the pipe is not enough, you need to cut the previous pipe and build up a solid sandwich element on it.
	We carefully isolate the passage of the pipe through the wall with heat-insulating material, and fasten a metal plate to the outer part of the house with self-tapping screws, protecting wooden surface from overheating.
	We install a tee on the pipe, which will serve as a smoke direction vector. The lower part of the tee is designed to collect condensate. We make sure that it is clearly located perpendicular to the chimney outlet pipe through the wall. All seams are carefully treated with sealant. We fix a stable support to the wall of the house or to the ground, depending on general design chimney channel.
	We begin the vertical build-up of the gas outlet channel from the bottom up according to the previously selected type (“by smoke” or “by condensate”).
	Every 100 cm (60 cm is possible) we fix the chimney to the wall with metal brackets. We follow the strict verticality of the structure. To do this, use the level, checking if there is any deviation. It is also very important to fasten against the solid part of the chimney channel, and not at the junction. We fix the upper part of the pipe with a metal clamp and be sure to install a snow retainer on the roof so that the structure is not damaged under the influence of precipitation.
	We install a cap on the cut of the sandwich with the help of bolts or self-cutting screws. To improve traction, use a deflector. When installing a chimney wooden house, you can play it safe and attach a spark arresting mesh to the deflector. It will protect the roof from sparks. This metal grid also reliably protect the chimney from getting leaves, birds, debris inside.

As you can see, installing a chimney through a wall does not require high qualifications and more experience. The main thing is to correctly calculate the height and diameter of the chimney and purchase high-quality material.

If you carefully consider all the points and clearly follow the instructions, then you will definitely cope with this task. And the video will help you visually study the process of installing the chimney.

Video. Installation of a chimney for a fireplace