Do-it-yourself iron barrel oven. Barrel stove: a simple option for organizing heating in utility rooms. Consumables and their quantity
For happy owners summer cottages a stove from a barrel of 200 liters is a panacea for many troubles that await them in housekeeping in difficult climatic conditions Russia. It can be used for heating a greenhouse and utility rooms, burning leaves and other debris, fumigating trees during frost, kindling a bathhouse.
The main advantage is that such a stove is made from a barrel with your own hands. This does not require special knowledge and large financial costs. Its other advantages are:
- the use of improvised solid fuel - firewood, wood chips, sawdust, brushwood, etc.;
- small size and weight, mobility;
- simplicity and reliability of work.
The stove from a 200 l barrel has disadvantages that you need to know for safe operation:
- the need for periodic removal of ash and ashes, cleaning the boiler from soot;
- low heat accumulation;
- a non-combustible base or pedestal is required, a safe distance from the walls;
- the need for a high chimney pipe to provide draft;
- periodic monitoring of the combustion process due to the possibility reverse thrust and room smoke.
Do-it-yourself oven from a 200 liter barrel for various purposes in the garden
Consider how you can make a stove out of 200 liter barrel with their own hands for various purposes in a summer cottage or garden plot.
Bubafonya - oven from a barrel long burning. She is an oven. top burning, where loaded solid fuel burns gradually from top to bottom, pressed down by a piston with a descending pipe for air supply. Due to the restriction of air access, combustion occurs long time. Pyrolysis gases, burning down above the surface of the piston, heat the body and go outside through the chimney.
The stove is made from a barrel of 200 liters, which is usually used to store fuels and lubricants or paint. An empty iron barrel can be bought at warehouses, metal depots, or found at a landfill. In addition to it, you will need:
- a metal circle for the piston with a diameter several centimeters smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel;
- a metal corner 5-6 cm wide for the base of the piston and legs;
- an iron pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, 5 cm longer than the height of the barrel, which serves to supply air and is at the same time a guide piston rod;
- 5 meters metal pipe chimney and tee with a diameter of 15 cm.
Do-it-yourself balloon stove
Case manufacturing:
- The top of the barrel must be carefully dismantled, knocking down the weld. Drainer with a screw plug can be welded or left to be used as a viewing window.
- Smooth out sharp edges by bending the edges of the cylinder inward around the circumference.
- Align the edge of the cover in the same way, bending its edges outward with a hammer. As a result, the cover should overlap tightly on the edges of the cylinder.
- In the center of the cover, cut a hole with a diameter of 10.2 cm for the free passage of the stem-pipe.
- Cut a hole 15 cm in diameter in the upper part of the side surface of the cylinder and hermetically weld a 25 cm section of the chimney pipe for the elbow connection with the chimney by welding.
- Make 4 legs from a corner and weld to the bottom of the cylinder for stable installation of the furnace on a pedestal or refractory base.
Piston manufacturing:
- In the center of the metal circle that serves as the base of the piston, cut a hole into which the supply pipe should fit tightly.
- On one side of the pancake, weld 4 segments of the corner symmetrically and radially from the hole to the outer circle. They will provide the rigidity of the piston base and the necessary air gap between the piston and the fuel.
- WITH reverse side pancake, put one end of the pipe into the hole and weld hermetically, observing the strict perpendicularity of the two parts.
- Put the barrel lid on the pipe and, at the other end of the pipe, weld a bolt protruding beyond the end to it, on which to fix a metal plate that freely rotates and completely covers the hole. It is a damper that regulates the air supply.
A "long-playing" stove from a barrel with your own hands is ready. It remains to install it on a safe pedestal or base and connect it to the chimney.
A chimney pipe with a height of at least 5 m is mounted vertically on legs and fixed with braces.
The lower part should be plugged with a removable plug with a ball valve to drain the condensate. At the same height with the exhaust pipe of the barrel, a tee must be welded in to connect to the furnace. The chimney tee can be connected to the furnace outlet with a metal sheet and clamps.
How can a stove be used in a garden plot from a barrel with your own hands
The kindling of the furnace is carried out as follows:
- Dry solid fuel is tightly packed into an empty cylinder to such a height that the upper plane of the piston is below the lower boundary of the chimney opening. Wet firewood should not be allowed, which can slow down the movement of the piston during the combustion process.
- Put chips, a rag or paper sprinkled with diesel fuel or kerosene on top, close the lid with a piston.
- Fully open the shutter, set fire to the rolled paper and throw it into the pipe. When the firewood flares up well, close the damper, setting the minimum clearance for air to enter.
On a household plot, a stove from a 200l barrel can be used to heat greenhouses, kindle a bathhouse or burn garbage.
Barrel stove for greenhouse, application options
A feature of heating greenhouses is the need for a uniform supply of heat to large area. This is usually achieved in the following ways:
- Natural convection method
A garden stove from a barrel is installed at the entrance to the greenhouse, and a chimney at the opposite end. A pipe with a slight upward slope runs along the entire greenhouse, connecting the stove to the chimney. Hot gases, passing through the pipe, heat it along its entire length, and the greenhouse is heated more evenly over the entire area due to the natural convection of warm air.
Bubafonya oven
- Forced convection method
A do-it-yourself oven made from a barrel is placed in an even larger diameter metal cylinder, which is welded from sheet iron. The outer cylinder must have a cutout for placing the chimney elbow of the furnace and two holes with a diameter of 10-20 cm, located on opposite sides from below and above.
A branch pipe is welded into the lower hole for forced supply of outside air with the help of a fan, and a similar pipe is welded into the upper hole for the output of hot air.
The entire space between the outer cylinder and internal oven must be hermetically sealed so that all the heated air enters the air duct system distributed over the entire area of the greenhouse.
Do-it-yourself oven for a bath from a barrel, application features
- In a 200-liter barrel, the top cover must be removed.
- In the side part, cut three holes for standard oven doors for the ashpit, furnace and heater. The hole in the ash pan should be located above the bottom at the height of one layer of bricks, above it - the hole in the furnace, and the hole in the heater should be closer to the top cover of the barrel on the opposite side.
- Lay out the bottom and lower part of the barrel up to 60 cm with a thick layer of refractory bricks, forming the volumes of the ash pan and the combustion chamber, dividing them with grates.
- Weld the doors, sealing all the cracks with cement mortar.
- Install grate from metal profiles with a gap of 5-8 mm separating the heater from the firebox, and lay out the walls with a thin layer of refractory bricks to the top.
- Lay granite stones on the grate in several layers, starting with large ones and ending with small ones. Smoke must pass freely between them. The upper border of the stones should end at the level of the beginning of the door.
- Weld the door to the stove, sealing the cracks with cement mortar.
- Drill a hole for the chimney in the top lid of the barrel and weld a drain pipe there.
- Close and seal the lid of the barrel. On the side surface of the barrel or on the lid, you can fix the tank for hot water connected to the plumbing system.
The stove is installed in the bath so that the firebox door looks into the dressing room, and the heater door into the steam room in compliance with all measures fire safety. It should be heated like an ordinary potbelly stove, using wood, pellets, coal, etc.
Steam is generated when heated stones are irrigated warm water through the stone door.
Barrel garbage stove
A lot of waste and garbage is always collected on the garden plot, which is expensive to take out.
The best way out of this situation is a garbage stove from a 200 liter barrel, the device of which is the simplest and accessible to everyone.
To do this, you need to remove the top cover of the barrel, and make a lot of holes on the bottom and bottom side of the barrel for air to enter.
Set the barrel on a dug ditch or brick base that provides air from below, and light a small fire in the barrel to begin with. Then, as it ignites, report the rest of the garbage. The advantage is that you can lay large branches without additional pruning. It can also be used for fumigation. flowering trees in frost. The disadvantage is that you need to turn the barrel over to remove the ash after each use.
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Homemade stove from a metal 200 liter barrel: drawings, stove diagram, photo and video. A barrel stove can be used to heat garages, workrooms, greenhouses and other premises.
A standard metal 200 liter barrel has a height of 860 mm, a diameter of 590 mm and a weight of 20-26 kg.
The dimensions of the barrel are almost ideal for making a stove from it, the only caveat is the thin walls of the barrel 1 - 1.5 mm, which will quickly burn out from the high temperature. As an option, the firebox can be lined from the inside refractory brick.
To make an oven you will need:
- Two 200 liter barrels.
- Door for oven.
- Grids.
- Sheet metal, corners and rods.
- Chimney pipe.
- Refractory brick.
- Bulgarian with a cutting wheel.
- Welding machine.
- Electric drill.
Stove from a 200 liter barrel: scheme.
We cut off the top of the barrel with a grinder and cut out a side opening under the furnace door.
We weld the furnace door to the barrel with a welding machine. At a height of 20 cm from the bottom of the barrel, we install grates for ash.
Under the ash pan, you can make a separate door, slightly opening it, you can adjust the traction force in the oven.
So that the metal walls of the barrel do not burn out over time, you need to lay out the inner surface of the firebox with refractory bricks. To fit the bricks more tightly, we file them with a grinder.
For laying the labyrinth of the chimney, it is necessary to weld from the corners of the crossbar under the bricks.
Bricks are laid out on the furnace mortar. The composition of the furnace solution is 1 part clay to 2 parts sand, the mixture is kneaded with a minimum amount of water to a very thick consistency.
The thickness of the joints for masonry should not exceed 5 mm.
To increase the heat transfer of the furnace, you can install another barrel on top. Under the chimney, you need to make a hole in the barrel and weld a piece of pipe under the chimney.
The chimney will have to be periodically cleaned of soot, so it is better to make it collapsible, I recommend reading the article - how to make a chimney for a potbelly stove.
Long burning wood stove from a barrel
The proposed model heating furnace long burning, which is recognized by its developer as the most optimal and accurate after several manufacturing options. Take a look at the prototype first, if I may say so about the factory long-burning boiler Stropuva of Lithuanian manufacturers.
But such a stove (photo below) can be purchased in the online store.
In the self-made wood stove long burning from a barrel, the principle of burning wood or other fuel from above is borrowed, with the fire lowering down as the wood burns, which just gives the effect of prolonging the process. It was made for the first time a few years ago by a man named bubafonya ( bubafonja- his nickname on the forum where he presented his idea). Therefore, his device and stoves made by others following his example were called #8220 bubafoni #8221 or simply #8220 bubafonya #8221 in Internet discussions. The stove is really interesting and it is worth studying in more detail how the master created it. At the end of the article, videos with bubaphones of other masters will also be posted.
First, take a look at the scheme of the long-burning furnace.
The scheme shows that the furnace does not work normally, combustion occurs from above, the smoke goes into the side hole and then into the chimney. The pancake goes down as the fuel burns out.
What materials were used?
An iron barrel of 200 liters a metal circle (pancake) with a diameter somewhat smaller than a barrel 4 channels or a corner 50-60 mm high with a length less than the pancake radius pipe 100 mm for blowing pipe 150 mm for a chimney 5 meters long.
How Bubafonya assembled the stove.
It was necessary to cut off the top edge of the barrel. After trying many ways, he settled on a grinder. So, the top of the barrel was cut off by a grinder.
It turned out a neat cylinder, the bottom of which is sealed.
And the lid, so that it does not slip, on the contrary, he folded the edges outward, put it on the top of the barrel so that it sits steadily and does not slip. Next, he took a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, its length is adjusted so as to equalize the height of the barrel. That is, the length of the pipe is equal to the height of the barrel. Using a chisel, the craftsman made a hole in the center of this lid 2 mm larger than the diameter of our 100 mm pipe, that is, the diameter of the hole turned out to be approximately 102 mm. It is better not to weld the hole from the barrel cork, but simply screw in the cork and, during the operation of the long-burning furnace, unscrew it, control the combustion process, looking into the furnace.
After that, on the top of the barrel, he marked the place to which the chimney would be connected.
In the next step, he made a hole at the markup and welded a 150 mm pipe to the body. And immediately inside the pipe he installed a shut-off damper. The body of the long-burning furnace is ready.
Next, the air supply part was made. The author of the furnace used another lid from the barrel, but you can take a circle cut out of metal of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the barrel. He took a 100 mm blower pipe and welded in the center of the pre-cut hole in the inner screen #8211 moving up and down the horizontal baffle. If you repeat the stove, you need to adjust the pancake so that it is slightly smaller than the diameter of the barrel by a couple of centimeters around the perimeter. Along the perimeter of the pancake, the edges are bent for greater rigidity so that it does not twist from high temperature. The photo shows a hole from the cork. The hole in the photo from the cork is open, but it needs to be welded, since during the operation of the furnace, gases should flow upward only along the edges of this pancake.
I welded pieces of corners to the bottom of the pancake, but pieces of a channel can also be used.
Now the air supply device is ready. It is inserted into the barrel. An adjustment damper is placed at the top of the air supply pipe. I vertically welded a threaded stud to the inner wall of the pipe, made a hole under this stud on the edge of the damper so that the damper, which is mounted on the stud, gently closes the pipe. Having put the shutter on, tightened it with a wing nut. By loosening the nut, moving the damper relative to the edge of the pipe and tightening the nut back, it will be possible to regulate the flow of air into the furnace.
Finally, a lid is installed on top and, behold, the finished stove is in front of us.
How to make a chimney.
The optimal pipe height is more than 5 meters for better traction. It is installed next to the oven. The lower part is better to do on the legs. It is strictly necessary to weld a ball valve under the knee. It is needed to drain the condensate that forms in the pipe. The stove is connected end-to-end to the knee from the chimney and tightened with a clamp. Under the clamp you need to put fiberglass for better sealing. Firewood is completely burned. Little ash is formed, you can not remove it for a long time, for 2 weeks. However, you need to know that with an increase in ash, the duration of burning decreases, since the volume of the furnace space becomes smaller.
Laying firewood and kindling a long-burning wood-burning stove.
Let's take the cover off. Take out the air blower. Let's put firewood inside, preferably not higher than the lower edge of the chimney outlet. You can lay firewood with a diameter of up to 20 cm. upper layer firewood put small chips. Pour quite a bit of kerosene or used oil on top of a rag or paper. Then we put the air supply part on top. We put on the outer cover on the pipe. We open the blower damper and throw a lit rag there, inside the pipe. As soon as the firewood flares up with a characteristic crack, you can completely close the blower damper. In this mode, it can work for a very long time, for days.
This is the operating basis. Many masters repeat the bubafoni stove, using not only barrels, but also other suitable blanks and materials.
From barrels you can make such furnaces.
Look at several of the videos presented for long-burning stove options.
Estonian barrel in a Kuban farm
Of the thousands of private farms in the Kuban, the farmstead of the pensioners Filippovsky in the Kalininsky district is one of the most visited. And not only because the spouses Vera Ivanovna and Vladimir Vasilievich successfully grow the most different fruits, vegetables, berries and all living creatures, from rabbits to ducks. Visitors are interested in the very ways of managing the household of these inhabitants of the Boikoponura farm - zealous and modern.
For example, drip irrigation has been established in greenhouses. And in order to save money on heating them, Estonian barrel technology is used. Once Vladimir Vasilievich read about her in a magazine. And now I remembered the advice and made a simple unit myself. The stove is made of a metal barrel with a capacity of 200 liters for 24 hours without additional loading. One load takes three small (from under bananas) boxes of firewood. Everything can burn, even raw logs, but what better firewood, the more heat.
Firewood is put into the barrel tightly, in a “well”, up to the chimney opening No. 2, where a pipe is installed to remove smoke into the chimney. If the connection in this place is loose, the gaps must be covered with clay or asbestos. Chimney draft should be checked with a match. If it is clogged, the stove will not work, the smoke will go in the opposite direction. Therefore, it is advisable to take a chimney pipe of a larger diameter, from 150 to 250 mm, made of light steel, as for drainage or ventilation.
For ignition, - says the owner of the farmstead, - you need to put wood chips or paper near the chimney. I myself water this place (in the drawing it is indicated by the number 3) with diesel fuel. When the smoke goes into the chimney, an air pipe with a cross is placed on the firewood, as for a Christmas tree. Air enters through pipe No. 1 with a diameter of 60-100 mm and is supplied to the sides through the crosspiece. The cross can be made from a channel, or from the corner of an old bed - two pieces per side to make a channel with the ribs down. A cover made of tin is put on and welded onto the crosspiece. The diameter of the lid should be 40-50 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel to create a gap between the lid and the walls through which the smoke rises and heats the barrel. Burning is slow, heat is given to the walls of the barrel. There is no open flame, so the stove is safe to use. It can be placed in a chicken coop, greenhouse, workshop.
According to the manager of the Kalinin additional office of the Russian Agricultural Bank, Oleg Solovyov, the Filippovsky spouses are one of best clients bank in the area. Three times they took out loans for the development of their economy, which financial support helped to grow in new directions. Their farmstead can be called exemplary. By the way, the regional deputies, who visited the Filippovsky farm before discussing the issue “On the state of development of small forms of management in the agro-industrial complex of the Kalinin region”, decided to generalize and promote their experience. And the chairman of the Legislative Assembly of the Territory, Vladimir Beketov, recommended that the deputy, head of the Krasnodar Compressor Plant, establish industrial production furnace based on the Estonian barrel technology. But Vladimir Vasilyevich continues to improve the design and soon, perhaps, its improved model will appear.
Dear readers, if you have invented or improved and successfully use any equipment or device in your household, share your experience. We will be happy to publish your invention in this section of the Agro-Sputnik website. Description, photos and necessarily the signature of the author are ready to accept on email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
How to make a potbelly stove from a barrel with your own hands
Probably more than one person is wondering how to make a potbelly stove with their own hands? and how to make a potbelly stove?
Do-it-yourself potbelly stove is an oven small size which is made of metal sheets. Such a stove can heat up a room very quickly (if it is not very large), but it also cools down just as quickly after the fuel stops burning.
If we talk about their shape, then they can be very different (round, square, rectangular, conical or in the form of something), it depends on the imagination of the person who makes it.
But in this article we will focus on a hexagonal potbelly stove from a barrel. Have you ever thought about how to make a potbelly stove out of a barrel?
1 - casing (barrel)
2 - fuel tank cap
3 - outlet pipe
5 - cover handle
6 - oven
7 - damper
8 - firebox
9 - blower compartment (ash pan)
10 - supporting bricks
11 - felt pad
12 - metal sheet.
In the picture you see a potbelly stove, in the development of which publicly available materials were used. First of all, we needed a barrel, the capacity of which is 200 liters, the height of the barrel is 850 millimeters. and the diameter is 600 millimeters. A hexagon, the side of which is equal to 290-300 millimeters. This makes it possible to practically additional work install standard ovens
This oven is very different from many homemade stoves the same class. It differs as follows:
- the furnace has a volumetric firebox
- has an increased area due to the fact that the fuel combustion chamber is hexagonal
- volumetric ash pan with air regulator
- volumetric oven with lining
- bake for a long time keeps warm.
In addition, this oven has good effect convection is the transfer of heat through the air that passes through the channels located between the fuel block and the casing.
Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - assembly procedure
We will cook the fuel block, therefore, in order to avoid mistakes, it is necessary to make a template that can be cut from thick paper(cardboard) or plywood.
1 - oven
2 - lining compartment
3 - fuel tank body
4 - front panel of the blower compartment
5 - corner of the frame of the oven door
6 - upper plate of the lining compartment
7 - lining niche
8 - top stop
9 - side panel of the fuel block housing
10 - support rod
11 #8212 intermediate plate
12 - corner of the frame of the firebox door
13, 14, 15 - bottom plates of the firebox
16 - grate saddle
17 - asbestos gasket
18 - door shell
19 – side wall ash pan
20 - door fastening bolt
21 - bottom rack
22 - damper mounting bracket.
The template should be in the form of a regular hexagon, the sides of which are 290 millimeters. Having made a template, you will not have any problems with assembly, you will only need to assemble everything according to the template, bait, and you can start welding.
- oven
- lining compartment
- blower compartment.
old metal barrel 200 liters is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises, from garages to outbuildings. The stove from a barrel of 200 liters has the simplest design and does not cause difficulties even for beginners. Let's understand the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.
Benefits of a barrel stove
When assembling homemade stoves, artisanal craftsmen often use old gas cylinders or sheet metal. It is problematic to get both, and even almost for free. To the greatest extent, this applies to sheet iron, which is most often simply bought. Barrels of 200 liters are more affordable raw materials for the construction of heating equipment.
200 liters is quite a decent volume. A large amount of firewood will fit in a firebox organized in a barrel, which is necessary for the implementation of long burning. There will also be room for a large ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.
Barrel stove - perfect solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, give warmth to a small workshop, and allow you to heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice of source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, there is no need to save on assembly materials.
Other advantages of a barrel stove:
- A volume of 200 liters is enough for the normal burning of the flame in the furnace.
- The ability to organize a capacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
- Unpretentiousness to fuel - the furnace will be able to work on everything that burns.
- Easy to operate.
A potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel is in some demand among those who need an inexpensive and easy to use self assembly heating equipment.
There are also disadvantages:
- High case temperature.
- Low efficiency - part of the heat simply flies into the chimney.
- Thin walls - durable furnaces require metal 3-4 mm thick.
Do not try to heat the stove from the barrel coal- he possesses high temperature combustion and can thin the metal.
Assembly sequence
A barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires an equally complex tool. We will need:
- angle grinder (grinder);
- welding machine;
- a hacksaw for working with small parts (it’s more convenient);
- Grinder.
Supporting materials will also be required:
- segments sheet metal- for scalding doors;
- door hinges;
- metal for the chimney;
- metal for legs;
- brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
- fittings for creating a grate.
Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for welding machine(if electric welding is used).
Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the best difficult task, the main thing is to follow our instructions exactly and observe safety precautions.
Initial barrel preparation
Making a stove from a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is to prepare our "source". A barrel of 200 liters must be cleaned of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas of burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rusty spots. Use a grinder to grind metal.
In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Work with the tool carefully, as the cut out rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door for the firebox should be larger than the door for the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as a blower.
Cut off the top of the barrel completely. We will need to assemble and place a grate inside the 200 liter barrel. Therefore, the absence of a top cover will ensure the convenience of its installation.
Assembling the grate
For the manufacture of a grate, use fittings. The diameter of a standard barrel of 200 liters is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the lattice must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door, we make arbitrary protrusions - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet metal and weld them to the inner walls.
The potbelly stove from the barrel will generate quite a lot of ash falling into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with ease of cleaning.
We prepare the doors
The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the boot and ash windows. Therefore, they must be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also saw out handles from sheet iron, rivet or fasten them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200-liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.
Making the foundation
For our 200 liter barrel, it is desirable to make legs. Adapt pieces of thick reinforcement for this or make them from metal corners 2-3 mm thick. Optimal Distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base - 100 mm.
Intending to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about the place of its installation. You will need a reliable non-combustible base. It is best to make it out of brick or pour concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material - for example, from sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, just lay a sheet of iron on it and place a barrel on it.
We prepare the chimney
The design of the stove from a barrel of 200 liters implies the obligatory presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - a pipe-in-pipe system is suitable for this. That is, we weld a pipe of a smaller diameter with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and already we put on it the main chimney pipe of a larger diameter. You can also use ready-made factory collapsible chimneys. The bottom line is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean at all that it will never become clogged with soot and soot.
Final assembly of the furnace
We take our barrel of 200 liters with legs welded to it, install it on a pre-prepared base. Inside we lower the grate. At the next stage, we weld the top cover with a short chimney. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.
Put some paper and small wood chips on the grate, kindle a fire, achieve a steady flame. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if they are dry. Wet logs burn worse, and even smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the firebox door and adjust the intensity of combustion with the blower. Do not forget to periodically add more and more portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.
Structural modernization
A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can produce a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Part of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly retrofitted. This is done in the following ways:
These steps will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you don’t find a sample for 200 liters, you can take 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to throw firewood more often.
- Brick walls are being built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulator.
- The stove is scalded round pipes small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
- By extending the horizontal part of the chimney - run it through the entire room in order to take away the maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.
We will offer you some more ideas for upgrading the stove from a 200 liter barrel. For example, you can post it inner part refractory bricks. For organization hob use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat dissipation - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with a horizontal arrangement of barrels.
Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry
A barrel of 200 liters can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:
- the barrel itself;
- thick metal wire or fittings;
- large rounded river stones;
- chimney pipes.
There is no ash pan in such a stove, so there will be some difficulties with cleaning. We immediately recommend that you make the firebox door at a level with the bottom of the barrel - it is more convenient to rake out the ashes. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.
To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a 200-liter barrel and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part we cut out a door for laying firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass quietly in the space between them.
