How to install a water heated floor in the house with your own hands? Wiring diagrams of water heated floors in a private house Warm floors on the water
A water heated floor is a worthy replacement for conventional radiator heating. The cost of its installation, compared with other types of underfloor heating, for example, with an electric one, is somewhat higher, but these funds fully justify themselves during operation. About all the pros and cons you can read on the page "Choosing a warm floor", on the same page we will go directly to its installation, which consists of several stages:
Manifold cabinet installation
We determine the location of the collector and install a special collector cabinet for it, the approximate dimensions of which are 60x40x12. Inside the collector cabinet, the heating pipes will be connected to the rest of the heat supply of the house. Also inside it will be installed elements that regulate the flow of water and so on.
To install a collector cabinet, it is necessary to mark its dimensions on the wall and add 1-1.5 cm of clearance on all sides, and then cut through
grinder with a circle for concrete along the planned lines of the slot. This is a slightly dusty procedure, but the edges of the niche under the manifold box will be neater; then a puncher is taken, preferably more powerful, and the niche itself is hollowed out into which the cabinet is installed. If you don’t have a grinder and a puncher, then protective gloves are taken, glasses, a chisel, a hammer and a niche is hollowed out with the help of these tools and “such and such a mother” !!!
Manifold cabinet assembly
So, the collector cabinet is installed, we put a pipe into it that provides hot water from the boiler and a return pipe - this is the pipe into which our water returns, supplied by the first pipe, giving off heat to the screed and cooling down. Then it enters the boiler again, heats up and passes again into the first pipe supplying hot water (supply) using a circulation pump, which ensures an uninterrupted supply of water. For supply and return, you need to install shut-off valves.
If necessary, by closing both valves, we will disconnect our room from the common heating system houses or apartments in case of unforeseen damage to the water-heated floor, its repair, or simply for the sake of saving. Compression fitting a metal valve is connected to plastic pipe. Next, we install the collector - this is a shiny tube, similar to an incomprehensible wind instrument, which has several side outlets. The collector also has a main entrance and exit. The main inlet is connected to the valve, and a tee is placed at the outlet, to which a drain cock is connected on one side, and an automatic air vent on the other, through which air bubbles that have entered the heating system are removed. In the event of an emergency repair
it will be possible to drain the water through the drain cock. Pipes (contours) of our warm floor, connected by compression fittings, will be connected to the side outlets of the collector.
It is also possible to connect the water system of the WARM BOARD to the collector.
Room preparation
In the room where installation is planned do-it-yourself water-heated floor, area markings are made taking into account the thermal expansion of the screed when heated. If the subfloor is not level, the recesses should be leveled with cement mortar, having previously primed it with a primer for mineral surfaces, or a preliminary screed of the base should be made, since the height differences in the area per coil should not exceed 0.5-0.7 cm. On a floor that has soil base, waterproofing.
thermal insulation
In order to reduce heat loss to zero, it is necessary to use foam plastic, polystyrene foil or foam plastic as a substrate for pipes. With the help of these materials, the pipes of the water-heated floor will not warm up the subfloor and the heat will rapidly go up, warming up our room. Before thermal insulation, we pre-lay a vapor barrier, that is, a plastic film that will protect the insulation from moisture. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10-15 cm and the joints are glued with adhesive tape. We lay a damper tape along the walls, which should protrude 2-3 cm above the projected floor height. The damper tape is a strip of foamed polymer, the thickness of which is 0.5 cm and a width of 12-18 cm, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the screed. Now we lay the insulation. In case of a cold ceiling or when the lower room is not heated (for example, a basement), the recommended thermal insulation layer is at least 5 cm. 2 cm is sufficient for an interfloor ceiling. The recommended material density is more than 25 kg per 1 m3. It is very convenient for these purposes to use foil-coated (coated with aluminum foil) slab polystyrene with a thickness of 3 cm, since its surface has special grooves for fastening pipes with a diameter of 16, 17, 18 cm. Its lower surface has a relief that helps smooth out irregularities and increases sound insulation .
Pipe laying
It is better to use pipes made of high density cross-linked polyethylene (PE-X) or metal-plastic.
If you use profile heat-insulating plates, then you just need to fix the pipes in special grooves with just one click on them. But if you are using a different type of insulation, then a great option is to lay reinforced mesh with a wire cross section of 3 mm and a mesh size of 10 × 10 cm, which, in addition to strengthening the screed, will do another useful thing - you can tie the pipes of our warm floor to it with wires or fastening clamps, but not very tightly, since when heated, the pipes can deform from for different thermal expansion of materials (pipe itself and wire). You can also buy special clips or fastening tapes that fasten the pipes directly to the thermal insulation layer. Pipes are fastened in increments of 1 meter. The schemes according to which pipes are laid are diverse and popularly have different names: snakes, double snakes, snails, zigzags, off-center spiral, etc., you can choose whichever is more convenient for you, but I will focus on the two most common pipe laying methods for do-it-yourself water heated floor.
1 laying pipes of a warm water floor in the form of a snake.
This method demonstrates the laying of pipes next to each other in the form of a snake, it is also called parallel. It is well suited for small and medium-sized rooms and it is better to lay it on the side of windows or walls facing the outside of the house, since the highest temperature will be at the pipe inlet.
2 Spiral pipe laying do-it-yourself water-heated floor(in the form of a snail)
This method is best used in places with increased heat consumption or in rooms with a large area of \u200b\u200bm2. The great advantage of this method is that when one pipe is cooled, the other compensates for its heating, due to the fact that the supply and return pipes (supply and return) run parallel to each other. The pipe laying step in a spiral way is from 10 to 30 cm. That is, a distance of 30 cm is set along the main area of the room, and in places of large heat loss (entrance doors, windows), the laying step is reduced to 15 cm. When the pipes pass near the walls, the minimum distance between them should not exceed 8 cm.
Connection
After you have laid the pipes in the way that you prefer, and fixed them in any of the above ways, one end of the pipe is connected to the supply manifold, and the other to the return manifold. If the room is large, then several contours (such loops) are made and the collectors are selected accordingly with the right amount inputs (outputs). It is desirable that each loop consists of a single piece of pipe, because additional connections increase the risk of leaks. It is also necessary to make a deformation seam if the length of your room is more than 7-8 meters. This seam is necessary to compensate for thermal expansions and it can be made from the same damper tape that we have already used before. Temperature seams should separate each circuit, unless of course it is not one. In the event that the temperature expansion joints pass through the underfloor heating pipes (supply or return), it is necessary to first put on a protective corrugation 40-50 cm long on those pipes. put cut down on the pipe in the place where the expansion joint will pass.
Do-it-yourself check of the water-heated floor system
Each circuit must be filled in turn with water through its collector so that air is completely expelled from it. For this purpose, flow meters and control valves are opened on each circuit.
When checking the system, the automatic air vents must be fully closed. Air must be bled through the drain valves.
If you are mounting do-it-yourself water-heated floor using metal-plastic pipes, then the system needs to be checked cold water, with a pressure of 6 bar for 1 day. If the applied pressure at the inlet is equal to the pressure at the outlet, then everything is fine and you did everything right.
PE-X pipes (polyethylene) are tested in a slightly different way. The system is loaded with pressure, 2 times its working indicator. At the same time, the pressure in the pipes begins to decrease. After 30 minutes, it is restored, and then the procedure is repeated 2 more times.
After 90 minutes, after the last procedure, the system is left alone for a day. If during this period the pressure in the system does not decrease by more than 1.5 bar, and the pipes do not leak, then the test was successful.
The system is then tested for thermal stability. Warm floors are heated to + 85 ° for 30 minutes, while checking the tightness of the pipes and connections, especially for the collet.
If necessary, they should be tightened. To relieve stress, the system must be warmed up. After the pipes have cooled, a concrete screed is poured, but more on that later, let's imagine for now that our do-it-yourself water-heated floor ready, and we need to adjust the room temperature.
Adjusting the temperature of a water heated floor
There are two common options for this:
1) the simplest and most common option is to adjust the hot water supply using valves at the collector outlets, the lower the supply, the lower the temperature in the room and vice versa. To begin with, the room usually warms up, and then the supply of hot water decreases and a certain temperature is maintained.
2) using automation specially designed for water floor heating.
Automation contains two blocks, the first is an electric valve installed in front of the collector and its essence is to open and close the hot water supply.
It controls the valve servomotor, and the thermostat can also have an additional sensor. The second block contains an electronic thermostat mounted on the inside of the wall,
built into the screed. You give the thermostat a temperature setting, and it respects it by acting on the electric valve based on the readings from its sensors. Everything is simple! Very handy item!
Do-it-yourself screed for a water-heated floor
After the do-it-yourself water-heated floor system has passed all the tests, we proceed to pouring the screed. Its minimum height must be at least 3 cm, and the maximum - no more than 7 cm. When using a heat-insulating layer, the screed layer must be at least 5 cm. The recommended thickness of the screed layer above the pipe level is no more than 3 cm. this is a very important stage, no less important than the assembly of the do-it-yourself water-heated floor. Many people do not attach importance to this, but in vain, since the quality of the screed will directly depend appearance and durability of the underfloor heating coating, including the finish. For example, if you buy a ready-made cement mixture from a low-quality manufacturer or make it wrong with your own hands, then within a short time after pouring the screed, it will begin to deform, crack and sag due to temperature exposure, due to which the upper decorative layer, such as tiles, will also fail prematurely.
For such things as a water heated floor, the screed must be resistant to deformation when exposed to temperature and not crack, and also have high thermal conductivity in order to transfer the heat produced by the pipes of the water heated floor to us as much as possible. In order for you to make yourself just such a screed, an article has been prepared for you that describes all kinds of delicious recipes cement-sand mortars specifically for underfloor heating.
Buy a stamp for concrete 
At the final stage of the finishing decorative coating screeds, you can use a more economical and less banal option than ceramic tile, namely - on the prepared surface of the screed, apply a thin layer cement mixture(0.6 - 10mm) and using stamps for concrete, emboss or print a specific texture of your choice. You will significantly save on tiles and get durable, reliable coverage with good thermal conductivity and heat dissipation.Read more about this on the page Thin-layer decorative concrete.
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Articles
Most homeowners choose underfloor heating as an addition to the radiator circuit. In this case, various mounting schemes for water-heated floors in a private house are used. Such a heating system is effective in rooms where children live, as well as for the bathroom. Schemes are selected when individually designing a house or during repair work.
A variant of the project scheme in a private house
Wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house: features and varieties
Installation floor heating produced with the help cement screed. It is performed to protect the structure from various loads. Warm pipes should not come into contact with air, but with the elements of the screed, transferring heat to the surface.
Wiring diagrams water heated floors used in a private house are planned and designed in accordance with the calculations of heat consumption and heat loss and have the following features:
- The required amount of heat is calculated taking into account the dimensions of wall structures and insulation methods different surfaces. The features of a certain climatic zone are also taken into account.
- Floor elements are not installed under the entire surface of the floor covering. Spaces remain free for the installation of heavy furniture, as well as indents from the walls.
- Premises with an area of more than 30 square meters are divided into sectors. Each individual section is heated using a separate circuit connected to the collector.
- The distance between the pipes must be the same.
- For this design, circulation pumps are required.
- Underfloor heating installation schemes depend on the dimensions of the room and heating methods. If the device is used as additional heating, then the loop pitch should be 0.2-0.3 meters, and if as the main one, then the spirals should be mounted at a distance of 0.1-015 m.
- The length of the lines and the placement step depends on the diameter of the selected pipe.
- The height of the structure is taken into account when designing window and door openings.
Related article:
Without a competent project to get quality system heating is almost impossible. After reading this publication, you can easily calculate required power, diameter and pitch of pipes. Good luck!
The main schemes of mounting floors include: spiral, snake and zigzag. The choice depends on the specifics of the room, types of pipes and other features. For example, for large rooms, the use of a simple snake is not entirely correct, since the water in the circuit cools down, “cold” zones will form. While in spiral laying, supply and return pipes alternate, which will ensure more uniform heating.
Helpful information! The pipe diameter must be no more than 20 mm. If the section bigger size, then the volume of water and heating costs increase.
Two pipe laying technologies (video)
Underfloor heating device
The underfloor heating system consists of laid pipes in which heated water circulates. They are installed on concrete or wooden surfaces, and on top are covered with the selected topcoat.
Hot water is transported through pipes. Submission is carried out using the main. The temperature of the air under the floor rises, transferring heat to the outer surface of the floor covering. This heats up the entire room.
Design features depending on the material of the finish coating
The nuances of the installation
The technology of wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house is determined by the features of a particular heating circuit.
Installation works of the structure have the following distinctive features:
- The basis for the equipment is selected taking into account the floor covering.
1 - floor beam; 2 - longitudinal beam; 3 - logs; 4 - mortgages for pipes; 5 - pipe; 6 - top coat
- A damper tape is installed around the perimeter of the room. The shock-absorbing element reduces heat loss at the junction of the floor with wall surfaces.
- On concrete plates the system itself is mounted in a screed.
- Waterproofing, reinforcing mesh and a layer of insulation are laid on the base.
- Pipes to the frame are mounted using clamps or steel wire.
For underfloor heating, special seamless pipes are used. The circuit is mounted from a solid line. The pipe material must be corrosion resistant and resistant to high temperatures.
Helpful information! Profile mats made of extruded polystyrene foam can be used as a frame and insulation. Then the canvases are covered with a layer of waterproofing.
Features of connecting the structure to a heat source
In the floor circuit, most often the average temperature is 35-40 degrees. Wiring diagrams for water in a private house function with the help of forced admixture of flows. Part of the coolant from the return flow goes into the supply circuit.
Gas boilers are equipped with special automation. Solid fuel units require a more complex device. They are equipped with circulation pumps and a special buffer tank. In this case, a more complex combustion control is used.
The best option for a floor heating system are electric boilers. Special automation allows you to maintain desired temperature without loss of thermal power.
Helpful information! For heating small houses, a direct connection to an electric boiler is used. In cottages with a large area, a special distribution comb is used.
Advantages and disadvantages of schemes
Installation schemes for water-heated floors in a private house, compared to others, have the following advantages:
The disadvantages include a large amount of time to install the system. If leaks appear, you will have to remove most of the flooring, including the screed.
Designing underfloor heating schemes in an apartment
Designing wiring diagrams for underfloor heating in a private house differs from an apartment project. After installation, no changes can be made to the layout of the radiators. Installation of floor structures powered by centralized heating is carried out at the construction stage by special organizations.
In apartments, the coolant flows through pipes through a separate riser, and not from a radiator heating riser. Water is heated in a special heat exchanger. If initially there is no data on the floor heating device in the project, then the connection of a new circuit must be agreed with the management company.
Helpful information! After agreeing on the project and obtaining permission, a heat exchanger is installed, and also mounted, circulation pump and the security team. With several circuits, a collector assembly is used.
Prices for the installation of underfloor heating
Wiring diagrams for underfloor heating made in a private house can have a different cost. It will include materials, preparatory and installation work, as well as connecting and testing circuits for strength. Cost of work for square meter varies from 1500 to 3000 rubles. Also, the price is affected by the type of base and the quality of the equipment.
Helpful advice! It is recommended to purchase ready-made sets of equipment for underfloor heating. Many manufacturers at the same time offer a free calculation of the entire system.
The density of laying the pipeline is determined by the required level of heating of the room. near the walls and entrance doors a tighter fit is performed. In this case, the distance from the highway to the wall should be more than 12 cm. The length of one circuit should not be more than 100 meters. In addition, the joints of the highways are made using metal sleeves. The collector with are placed in a special distribution cabinet, for which you need to select a place in advance.
Full-fledged heating of the room and the creation of a favorable microclimate in the house depend on the quality of the wiring diagrams. Good luck with the repair!
Do-it-yourself water-heated floor (video)
Traditional heating options in last years are becoming less and less popular, giving way to warm floors. Such a change of priorities is quite natural - warm floors are distinguished by a more comfortable distribution of heat, efficiency, almost no dust rise and the possibility of painless embedding in any interior.
There are water and electric underfloor heating. Both options have their characteristics and advantages, but for their implementation the correct layout of the warm floor is very important. About how to decompose a warm floor, and will be discussed in this article.
Methods for laying out a water floor
A water heated floor is a system of pipelines laid under the floor covering. Inside the pipes there is a coolant, which constantly moves along the contour, due to which the heating of the premises is carried out. Water heated floors are much more economical than electric ones, which is directly related to the high cost of electricity.
To ensure the heating of the coolant in underfloor heating, it is best to use gas boilers, since gas is the cheapest fuel. Another good option is solid fuel equipment, which in the end also turns out to be quite economical and, unlike gas boilers, can work autonomously. It is also possible to use heat pumps, which are much more suitable for use in combination with underfloor heating than with traditional heating systems.
How to lay out a water heated floor correctly
To water system the warm floor was quite effective, regardless of its type, a competent layout of the warm water floor is required, which affects the uniformity of heating the room.
There are the following schemes for laying out warm water floors:
- "Snail". This method assumes that the laying of pipes for a water-heated floor will be carried out along a spiral path in two rows. The pipe is directed from the entry point to the center of the room and returns. It is necessary to arrange the pipes so that the supply and return pipes alternate - in this case, the hot and cold sections of the pipeline coincide, which ensures uniform heating of the entire room.
- "Snake". In this scheme, the pipes are laid in a spiral, but the movement of the coolant is carried out only in one direction. With such a scheme, the temperature of the coolant drops in the process of its removal from the inlet. It is advisable to use the "snake" only in rooms with a small area, otherwise the heating efficiency will be too low.
- "Double snake". This layout of underfloor heating pipes is a combination of "snail" and "snake". The supply pipe unfolds in a serpentine pattern so that there is enough space between each turn for laying return pipes. The return pipeline is laid between the supply pipes.
Pipe length
Effective operation of the underfloor heating in any layout is possible only if the total length of the pipeline does not exceed 100 m. construction.
This is what it is about: water heated floors demonstrate their positive traits only in private houses or modern apartment buildings, communications in which the use of relatively new heating systems was originally designed. Multi-story houses old buildings are not adapted for the use of underfloor heating - the coolant passing through the pipes cools down too much, and it becomes noticeably colder in the apartments further along the contour.
Electric underfloor heating
Most often, an electric underfloor heating is used as an additional heating circuit, which is launched in the off-season or, if necessary, to increase the temperature above the current one.
Of the merits electrical systems stand out the most:
- Simple and fast installation;
- No need to connect to heating equipment with liquid coolant;
- Relatively low cost;
- The minimum thickness, which practically does not affect the rise of the floor covering.
The disadvantages come down to the following list:
- The electric warm floor generates magnetic waves (of course, their level is very weak, but if possible it is worth shielding the structure);
- High price operation (electricity is one of the most expensive energy resources today);
As heating elements in electric underfloor heating, special cables are used, which are laid out with a snake and fixed on a mounting tape. The layout scheme of a heated floor powered by electricity is closely related to the type of cable used in the arrangement of the system.
Types of electrical cables
The following types of cables are on the market:
- Resistive single-core. This option is characterized by maximum simplicity and low cost. Current flows through the core of the cable, and Electric Energy converted to heat. A key feature of single-core cables is the need to connect them from two sides - and this is sometimes difficult.
- Resistive two-wire. In this embodiment, there is not only heating, but also conductor. Thanks to the second core, such a cable can be connected only on one side - this simplifies installation and reduces the level of electromagnetic radiation generated by the structure.
- self-adjusting. In this type of cable, the main element is polymer sleeves that convert electricity into heat. Self-regulating cables are considered the most efficient and easiest to operate, but they are also more expensive than their counterparts.
Thinking over the plan for laying out underfloor heating, you need to take into account the main rule - resistive cables should not be placed under furniture and other objects in the room. The thing is that with this arrangement, the cable will definitely overheat, and the warm floor will simply become unusable. When choosing the step of laying the turns, you need to build on the required power of the underfloor heating and the performance characteristics of the cable itself.
When the cable is installed, it is necessary to install a temperature sensor in the corrugated tube. To install the sensor, a place is usually selected between the turns of the cable, remote from the wall at a distance of about 0.5-1 meters. The part of the wire that provides the connection between the thermostat and the temperature sensor is laid in a vertical strobe.
After laying the cables, pouring is carried out concrete screed. The operation of an electric underfloor heating is possible only after the concrete has completely hardened - and this usually takes about a month.
Conclusion
The layout of the warm floor can be performed according to several schemes, and each of them has its own characteristics. To choose the most suitable option, it is worth studying them in more detail - different types warm floors can be devoted to separate articles. In any case, after a careful study of the issue, it is possible to carry out a competent installation of a warm floor, which will ensure efficient and uniform heating of the room.
Underfloor heating is a heating system that uses hot water as a heat source for a room. The principle of operation of such a heating system is quite simple: special flexible pipes, through which the hot coolant is distributed.
The source of heat for such a heating system is a central heating system or a gas boiler. You can do the installation of a water-heated floor with your own hands, but before that you will need to draw up a project correctly and decide on the connection method.
The water floor heating system installed in the apartment consists of:
- Water heating boiler;
- circulation pump;
- Ball valves installed at the inlet to the boiler;
- Pipes for distributing and laying the heating main;
- Collector;
- Control and adjustment systems;
- Fittings connecting the manifold to the pipeline.
The boiler, which you yourself need to connect to the plumbing heating system, can be:
- Electric;
- gas;
- solid fuel;
- On liquid fuel.
The circulation pump is included with most boiler models, but before installing it, you should make a calculation and find out if it has enough power for the underfloor heating system. The power of the heating circuit, (kW) and the temperature of the coolant are taken into account.
The collector distributes hot water along the heating circuit - with its help, the underfloor heating in the apartment is adjusted and adjusted. Make and connect a collector using metal-plastic pipes you can do it yourself - this will save money on installing the system.
The cake of a water-heated floor laid in a screed is divided into three layers - these are:
- Shielding substrate;
- Heating circuit;
- Finish flooring.
A foil-coated film is used as a shielding substrate. The film protects the heating circuit from possible heat losses.
A pie of a water-heated floor without a screed consists of:
- primary sex;
- Heat-insulating layer, best of all - a special polystyrene plate;
- Aluminum plates for pipe laying;
- heating pipes;
- Substrates;
- Finishing coverage.
Comparing water and electric underfloor heating, it should be noted that:
- It is more difficult and expensive to design and install a water floor than an electric one, but its operation is much cheaper. Heating 10 sq. m., the water floor consumes only 1.5 kW of electricity per hour.
- The water floor heating system is characterized by the complexity of adjusting the temperature in the apartment. Adjusting the heating of electric floors is quite simple.
- Starting floor heating with a water system takes much less time than with an electric one.
- With a large area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it is possible to make a water floor the main source of heating, with a small area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it is recommended to carry out heating with an electric underfloor heating.
Underfloor heating project
H2_2
Optimum floor heating temperature.
The project drawing up instruction requires the availability of initial data, which includes the level of heat loss of the entire building and each room separately. In addition, it is necessary to calculate in advance the temperature value that should be in each room.
The technology is focused on averaged data, so the water floor generates an average of 100 W / m2 of energy, which is equal to the average heat loss of an “average building”. When drawing up a project, it must be borne in mind that a warm water floor in each room will cover various heat losses. So, for example, in the bedroom they are 50 W / m2, in the hall 100 W / m2, in the bathroom 75 W / m2.
Pipe laying scheme
Pipes for a heat transfer system are made of cross-linked polyethylene, polypropylene, copper, metal-plastic or of stainless steel. The advantage of polypropylene pipes is their low cost. Metal-plastic products retain shape stability and do not deform. Copper pipes have a long service life and a high degree of thermal conductivity. Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are characterized by high thermal stability and strength.
Before you start laying the floor water heating system with your own hands, you must select the pipeline pitch. Here, the step is the distance between the laid pipes that perform floor heating. The pipe laying step affects how evenly the temperature will be distributed over the floor surface.
The laying instruction allows you to use a step from 5 to 60 cm, but most often the pipes are laid in increments of 15-30 cm. The choice of this parameter must be made depending on the type and characteristics of the room, as well as indicators of its calculated heat load. For example, it is recommended to install a pipe system with a laying step of 15 cm in bathrooms and all those rooms where it is important uniform distribution heat on the floor surface at a level of heating loads of more than 85 W/m2. You can lay the pipes yourself with an orientation to the following schemes:
When implementing the “snail” laying scheme, the pipeline must be laid in a spiral, which unwinds from the center of the room to the walls. "Snail" is the most popular and common method of laying pipes with your own hands. The design of such a scheme makes it possible for the supply and return to be located nearby, which helps to equalize the average floor temperature, in which cold zones will not occur.
Such a scheme allows heating to be carried out in the coldest areas located along external walls. Reverse loop instructions allow mounting closer to the center of the room. It is possible to do laying with a snake in rooms with a floor slope - it is important to correctly lay the heating circuit in the highest part of the room. This will contribute to the independent exit of air from the pipeline to the collector.
The layout of pipes with a double snake allows you to smooth out uneven floor heating. To perform this installation, you need to make double loops of the supply and return circuits. The laying technology allows the combination of “snail” and “snake” schemes - snake pipes are laid along the perimeter of the walls, and in the middle of the room they are laid in a spiral.
All presented methods directly depend on the characteristics of the room and the angle of the floor.
Advice! In the coldest areas, it is necessary to increase the density of the serpentine laying step to 10 cm, especially for areas near external walls.
Ways to connect the underfloor heating system
Do-it-yourself connection of the water floor follows the “pipe-collector-boiler” connection chain. The most common options are:
- Collector systems.
- Connection using three-way mixers;
- Connection with a circulation pump.
When connected using a collector, the system is mounted in such a way that return and supply pipes can be freely connected to the collector cabinet. Further, tank collector outlets are connected to the pipes, providing the supply and return flow of the coolant. The design is equipped with shut-off valves, with thermometers installed in them to monitor the temperature regime.
Fixing pipes, valves and other elements is carried out using compressor fittings. In addition, the collectors can be fastened to the water floor contour using special connections - a brass nut, a clamping ring or a support sleeve. On last step the collector is connected to the heating pipes.
If you install and connect a system with a three-way mixer, then it should be installed at the outlet of the return circuit. You can mount such a system with your own hands by directly connecting a three-way mixer using pipes to the boiler.
The collector must be supplemented with a splitter, on the upper side of which an air vent is installed. This element will ensure the removal of air bubbles from a closed system. Fastening of all chain components can be done with fittings or clamping rings.
If the system has a low water pressure, and the mixer is not needed, then you can install a circulation pump equipped with a thermostat. The pump can be connected to the central heating system, but this must be done after agreement with the permitting authorities of the Housing Office. It is advisable to install the pump on the return circuit of the system, since when installed on the supply circuit, it will take excess water which can damage the central heating system.
How to install a warm water floor with a screed
The underfloor heating system is installed in the following order:
- The foundation is being prepared - the main requirement for subfloor it is a flat surface and dry.
- being laid waterproofing layer. As a waterproofing, ordinary polyethylene film. The film is spread over the entire surface and glued with adhesive tape at the joints.
- The damper tape is laid. You need to do this around the entire perimeter of the room.
- mounted thermal insulation layer. Expanded polystyrene foam can be used, on top of which a foil-coated film is laid.
- In accordance with the markup, pipes are laid.
After the hydraulic tests are carried out, the turn comes concrete pouring. In order to make reinforcement, you should use metal mesh with a wire cross section of 5 mm, with a mesh size of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. The finishing screed can be poured from mixtures for self-leveling floors, special building mixtures or a solution with the addition of a plasticizer. The thickness of the concrete layer in this case should not be more than 30-35 mm.
Advice! An aluminum bar with a length of up to 2 m is best suited for leveling an uncured screed. The bar will help you quickly and efficiently complete the initial leveling.
After completion of the work, you need to wait for the complete solidification of the fill, and then lay the decorative coating.
How to install without a screed
A warm water-type floor can be installed without the use of a concrete screed - under a polystyrene base or wooden flooring.
Laying under a polystyrene base is carried out in the following order:
- In accordance with the preliminary marking, the polystyrene foam base is laid in the form of plates. They are fastened to each other with special snap locks.
- Aluminum plates are laid in the grooves, on top of which pipes are laid with an orientation to the laying plan of the heating circuit.
- A waterproofing layer can be laid on top of the plates - an ordinary plastic film will do.
- The top coat is laid on top of the plates.
When using wooden modules, the following actions are performed:
- The modules are placed on the logs, while maintaining a step of 600 mm.
- A waterproofing and insulating layer is laid between the lags.
- The modules are interlocked with each other with special locks.
- Metal plates are placed on top of the layer of prepared modules.
- On top of the metal plates, pipes are laid according to the selected scheme.
- If tiles or linoleum will be laid under a warm wooden floor, you will need to prepare a flat surface - put on top of the metal plates drywall sheets or chipboard, fix them and seal all joints and cracks with putty.
Various tips on how to properly arrange underfloor heating give quite a lot. useful information, however, carry out own calculations in a single example with their help will not work. Therefore, the effectiveness of the functioning of the structure will depend on the hands of the master.
To get started on installing underfloor heating, you will need:
- soft pencil;
- measuring tape;
- calculator;
- ruler;
- graph paper.
Draw a plan of the room on graph paper, taking a scale of 1 cm = 0.5 m. It is also important here to indicate the locations of doors and windows as accurately as possible. Apply a project for the placement of pipes through which hot water, clearly plan the location of the contour. It is important to take into account certain points.
- According to technical standards, the gap between the pipes placed at the edges and the wall should be 20-25 cm.
- Depending on the diameter of the hose, the distance between the "spirals" or "snakes" should be 35-50 cm.
- The pipe departing from the riser should be installed near the place where the cold comes into the house - doors or windows;
- The outer walls should have the maximum density of the hose, in the central part of the room it can be laid less often. The most optimal installation scheme looks like this: next to the windows, the entrance door and external walls, the laying step is 15 cm, and on another area - 30 cm.
- In order to balance the incoming fluid flow and the return flow, fastening should be carried out in increments of 10 cm.
- Loops carrying heat should not exceed 100 m in length, as there may be significant hydraulic losses in the system.
- The extreme contour should be placed at a distance of no more than 15 cm from the wall.
The designed drawing will serve as a basis for selecting the required number of pipes and their length. On graph paper, you need to select the length of the contour and, according to the scale, translate the values into the real size. It will take another 2 m to bring the system to the riser. They should also be taken into account. Thus, you will have the required number to install them in a warm water floor system.
For water "carpets" you need a quality hose
Determine the correct hose diameter. Usually it ranges from 16 to 20 mm. Sometimes 25 mm pipes are used. The permissible bending angle and the thickness of the future floor depend on the diameter of the pipe.
Required materials for the device
Based on the indicator of the thickness of the screed, performed after laying the heating system, you will need a specific volume of mortar, which also needs to be calculated. The volume of water is determined by the method of samples. It is important to get a non-spreadable mixture. However, the solution should not be very thick, as this may affect the difficulty of finishing and polishing the surface. Sand and cement are taken in a ratio of 3/1. H You don’t always need to make the composition of the screed yourself - you can buy a special dry mix for the self-leveling floor.
For the purpose of thermal insulation, they take the material (aluminum foil) in the amount that is needed for a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe room. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the room by its length - the value comes out in square meters. Then you should take into account the commodity formation of the material and carry out the subsequent calculation. Laminated canvases are considered optimal here. Aluminum-based foil makes it possible to distribute heat evenly and prevent its loss. The foil is a substrate for the main insulation.
All elements for the implementation of the heating system should be taken with a margin. You will need:
- self-tapping screws,
- dowels,
- hose fittings,
- lighthouses.
How does an underfloor heating system work?
According to the diagram, a hose is placed under the flooring in the room. Hot water or another liquid flows through the system, which transfers heat to the surface being used. Ethylene glycol or antifreeze is also used as a heating component. Until the moment when the floor heats up, the carrier of thermal energy distributes and gives thermal energy next to the placed material and elements.
Now it is possible to perform three types of flooring: based on wooden canvases, from a concrete composition and polystyrene.
In most cases, in the construction of a house, they use concrete pavements, less often wooden blocks including heating circuit. Consider a concrete self-leveling floor.
Concrete floor device with heating function
Such a system is installed on reinforced concrete capital floors with the future creation of a cement-sand screed. Among the masters, this option is called "jellied" or "wet". The reliability and efficiency of the method in practice is manifested in a high heat input and excellent strength characteristics.
The traditional warm water floor combines the following components:
- pipes;
- waterproofing;
- overlap;
- reinforced screed;
- heat-insulating material;
- finish coating.
In its total thickness, this device is from 7 to 15 cm. Experts recommend laying a damper tape around the entire perimeter of the room, which will prevent heat loss and strengthen the screed at the junction with the walls. On floors with uneven surfaces or in rooms that have an oblong shape, it makes sense to make an expansion joint that compensates for the expansion of the screed with increasing and decreasing temperatures. For private houses, it is usually performed along the line of the doorway, right under the threshold.
Heat insulating materials
For the device of thermal insulation, you can take the following materials:
- polypropylene;
- cork backing;
- expanded polystyrene;
- profiled polystyrene.
In most cases, profile material with a vapor barrier film is now used, which includes special “bosses” made to fix 18, 17 and 16 mm pipes. The plates include side locks that make it easier to connect the panels. The material itself is expensive, but at the same time it is very convenient to work with.
Pipe selection
Pipes are the main component of the entire heating system. The duration of service and the quality of functioning of the whole water structure depend on them.
Laying the heat transfer pipe is carried out in two ways: serpentine or spiral. According to the installation technology, the second method is simpler and requires less pump work. In houses where there is a linear slope, it is better to use the first option, since this will make it easier to remove air from the hose.
Screed material
During the preparation of a mixture based on cement and sand for a screed device, it is recommended to use plasticizing agents. If they are not used, then you will have to lay a layer of at least 5 cm in thickness, and if used, then this value can be reduced to 3 cm. In order for the structure to serve for a long time and reliably, you need to use a reinforcing mesh. In the case when the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is more than 40 sq.m, it is advised to take polypropylene fiber as a reinforcing layer.
Upper layer
Speaking of decorative flooring, then the most efficient return of thermal energy is provided by ceramics and stone. top element the entire "pie" can be polymeric and textile materials, the thickness of which does not exceed 10 mm. The use of parquet is also allowed, however, here it is worth taking into account the humidity standards, since you may encounter swelling and drying out of the tree.
In all options, it is important to consider the coverage value - it should not be higher than 0.15 m²K / W.
Before performing work, you need to know that the device of such a system will take a space of about 8 cm from the floor from the room. The phased arrangement of a warm floor consists of the following points:
Working with the base
Initially, all dirt, debris, grease and oil stains are removed from the surface of the subfloor, and then they begin to arrange the first layer. As a rule, a screed based on a mixture of sand and cement is used in the house. It is laid in strict accordance with horizontality - along the lighthouses. It is allowed to install self-leveling floors using modern self-leveling mixtures. In order for the heat to be distributed evenly, you need to make the surface perfectly flat.
Scheme-example of connecting a water-heated floor
The allocated space for the docking components that connect the heating pipes and the house's heat supply system should be hidden in a special cabinet. It is best to make a niche in order to save space. Approximate cabinet dimensions: 600x400x120 mm. These are standard commercially available manifold cabinets. Both joints and certain regulatory systems can be placed in them.
Cabinet connection
Provide access to the return hose and the boiler feed pipe in the cabinet. Attach shut-off valves to them. Connect the manifold and put a plug on its end. Great option will install a splitter.
An air vent should be screwed in at one end, and a drain cock at the other. Thus, you will be able to turn off the heated system in one or another room if necessary to carry out emergency repairs.
Laying a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing
- Should be on concrete base lay sheets of aluminum foil or polyethylene:
- Fasten the damper tape along the perimeter 2 cm above the level of the screed.
- As thermal insulation material take the plates from mineral wool, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, cork, foam concrete, foam plastic. According to your desire, the selected component should be characterized by a sufficient value of temperature resistance, which will generally exceed all the indicators of the heating layers.
- Additional waterproofing is not required if you took polystyrene with foil as a heat-insulating material.
- The layer thickness is taken depending on the power autonomous system heating, the presence or absence of a heated room on the floor below, the thermal resistance of the floor.
- It makes sense to purchase a heat insulator for warm water floors, since it has protrusions for pipes on one side.
Checking the work and making concrete screed
It is important to check the functionality of the system before performing the screed. Only after verification correct operation of the entire system, you can lay a self-leveling floor or cement mortar, making a perfectly flat surface on the installed beacons. After the mixture has hardened, one more check of the operation of the system must be done and only then take up the flooring device.
