≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

Insulating materials for walls. An overview of the best soundproofing materials for apartment walls. Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

Noise insulation of walls in an apartment, modern materials for which today can be found in hardware stores, is becoming more and more relevant. This is explained simply - fences in multi-storey typical houses are not able to fully protect the home from external street noise and from sounds coming from neighboring apartments.

medical scientists It has long been noted that the presence of constant noise has an extremely negative effect on the human psyche, not allowing him to get complete relaxation and rest. That is why, unable to withstand the constant sound pressure, many city residents, especially those who live in panel houses, begin an active search for a suitable soundproofing material that will meet all the requirements for its use in apartments.

Almost all modern acoustic materials are made on the same basic principles as traditional ones. However, they have undergone significant improvement due to recent production technologies.

To date, a very large number of new soundproof materials, and it is simply impossible to cover the characteristics of all on the scale of one article. Therefore, attention will be focused on the most effective ones, which are used in an apartment.

Thin soundproofing MaxForteSound PRO

When the area of ​​​​an apartment or room does not limit the choice of materials, and you can install sound insulation of any thickness, this is convenient. But what if you can't afford to spend precious inches of living space?

In this case, the innovative MaxForte SoundPRO thin soundproofing material will suit you. It has a thickness of only 12 mm, while in terms of its characteristics it is able to compete with sound insulation with a thickness of 5 and even 10 cm! MaxForte SoundPRO - newest material, created specifically for soundproofing residential and industrial premises.

Specialists from the Research Institute of Building Physics and the Department of Acoustics of the Faculty of Physics of Moscow State University took part in the development of the material. In the manufacture of MaxForte SoundPRO, all the important points for the effective operation of the material were taken into account: the optimal density was selected (with a low density, the sound will pass through, if it is too high - along the "skeleton"), the length of the fibers, their thickness. The sound-absorbing layer is calibrated and uniform over the entire area. The material is completely non-flammable. The composition does not contain harmful phenol-formaldehyde resins and any adhesives. Therefore, in addition to excellent soundproofing properties, MaxForte SoundPRO is safe for health.

MaxForte SoundPRO gives an increase in sound insulation both from air (loud TV, crying baby, screams of neighbors), and from impact noise(noise from stomping, grinding furniture, falling objects). It can be used for soundproofing ceilings, walls and floors, which will give a significant increase of up to 64 dB!

Installation of thin noise insulation is very simple, and not only professionals can handle it, but anyone who has ever held a hammer drill and a screwdriver in their hand.

MaxForte SoundPRO is mounted on the wall using ordinary plastic dowel mushrooms, which can be purchased at any hardware store. It is hung on the wall using the butt-to-butt technology, after which it is covered with a layer of GVL (gypsum fiber sheet). All seams of the sheets must be glued with a special vibroacoustic non-hardening sealant. After the soundproofing is sewn up with a layer of GKL (gypsum plasterboard). The seams of the GVL and GKL sheets should be in a run, that is, they should not match.

Visually about the installation of thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO you can see in the video.

Video - How to install thin sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO

Thin wall soundproofing with panelsSoundGuard EcoSoundIsol

EcoZvukoIzol SoundGuard panels are a unique material for soundproofing walls and ceilings, which allows you to achieve silence in the apartment and not lose usable space.

SoundGuard EcoZvukoIzol panels are made of a durable multi-layer cardboard profile based on the honeycomb principle, which are filled with thermally treated mineral quartz sand. The quartz filler used is very fine, exactly the same as an hourglass. It is this filler that makes it possible to achieve an impressive weight of the panel - more than 18 kg per m2, and according to the laws of sound insulation, the heavier the material, the worse it transmits sound (cotton wool transmits sound very well, for example brick wall or steel door much worse). In addition to weight, quartz sand, due to its fine fraction, perfectly dampens and absorbs almost all sound frequencies - from air to shock.

How to mount panelsSoundGuard EcoSoundIsol?

Installation of panels is very simple and almost anyone can handle it. are attached to the wall using SoundGuard DAP acoustic dowels, which are hammered into holes pre-drilled through the panel in the wall. After that, all seams and joints are smeared with sealant and the entire wall is sewn up with drywall.

Mineral noise absorbing material "Shumanet-BM"

This soundproof the material made from basalt fibers is considered to be premium grade mineral sound absorbing board. One side of the mat is laminated with a fiberglass layer, which helps to preserve the integrity of the slab and keep the internal basalt fibers in one position to prevent their small particles from entering the room. This is especially important in cases where the sound-absorbing material will be covered by perforated acoustic panels.

Packing of soundproof boards "Shumanet"

Plates « Shumanet BM" are produced in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 23 — 03-2003 Noise protection. They have the following technical and operational characteristics:

	Indicators
Standard plate size (mm)	1000x500 or 1000x600
Plate thickness (mm)	50
Material density (kg/m³)	45
Number of boards in a package (pcs.)	4
Area of ​​boards in one package (m²)	2.0 or 2.4
Weight of one package (kg)	4.2÷5.5
Packing volume (m³)	0.1 ÷ 0.12
Sound absorption coefficient (average)	0.95
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	NG (non-flammable)
Water absorption at partial immersion in water for 24 hours, in% of the total volume	Not more than 1÷3%

Acoustic tests to determine the sound absorption coefficient were carried out in the measurement laboratory of the Moscow Research Institute of Building Physics at the Russian Academy of Architecture and Building Sciences.

The basis of "shumanet" are basalt fibers

Having a low degree moisture absorption, this soundproofing material can be used not only in rooms with normal humidity but also, for example, in the bathroom. In addition, it is excellent for soundproofing tension and suspended ceilings, and, of course, walls and multilayer partitions made in the form of a sandwich of drywall, plywood, fiberboard and other sheet materials.

Soundproofing walls using "Shumanet BM"

The installation of the plates of this sound insulator takes place according to the same principle as all types of mineral wool. However, one must take into account the fact that the material will be used primarily as sound absorber, and only then is considered as an additional insulation.

Work is carried out in the following sequence:

• On the prepared one, markings are made to secure the elements of the crate. Since the width of the mats is 500 mm, and they should stand between the bars by surprise, the distance between the guides should be 450 ÷ 480 mm. If mats 600 mm wide are purchased, then, accordingly, the distance between the bars should be 550 ÷ 580 mm.
• Further, the elements of the crate themselves are fixed, but at the same time, in order not to weaken the basic qualities of the soundproofing material, experienced craftsmen advised to perform a series simple recommendations:

- For the crate, it is best to use a wooden beam, and not metal profiles, since metal is a good conductor of sound, it can resonate, and wood tends to muffle sound waves.

- In addition, in order not to create bridges for the passage of sound, it is recommended to make spacers between the wall and the battens of a thin soundproof material, for example, felt or strips basalt wool 8 ÷ 10 mm thick.

- If, nevertheless, a metal profile is chosen for the crate, then it is better to move it away from the wall with a soundproof gasket by 12 ÷ 15 mm.

- In the event that the area soundproof the room is large enough, and it is possible to take out the crate for sound-absorbing material and cladding 100 mm from the wall, then you can use special details - hangers. They are screwed to the wall through wooden spacers, and the bars are already fixed in them.

Another option is the use of special suspensions, which are designed specifically for noise-absorbing structures. Structurally, such a product already has a special damper layer, which effectively dampens vibrations without transferring them to the frame guides.

Special suspension used for soundproofing work

If guide bars fixed in the above way, then the sound insulator mats are mounted in two layers. The first of them is installed behind the elements of the crate, close to the wall, and the second - between the guides.

Two-layer placement of shumanet panels

• Ultimately, upon completion of the installation of the Shumanet BM panels, the walls should look like this:

Next, over the mats soundproof material is fixed vapor-permeable diffuse membrane. Then they proceed to the installation of drywall or plywood sheets, which, in turn, will become the basis for the implementation finishing works. However, it is quite possible to replace this layering by fastening directly to the guide rails of a wooden decorative lining.

Next - the wall is tightened with a diffuse membrane and sewn up with drywall or plywood

It should be noted that all sound and heat insulating materials made in mats or rolls are mounted on walls according to the same principle.

Video: the advantages of soundproof mineral plates " Shumanet»

"Teksound" - a new direction in sound insulation technology

"Teksound" is not yet as popular as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, as this is a relatively new sound insulator. The most important advantage of "texound" over others soundproof materials is that it practically does not “steal” the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, since it has a small thickness.

The main advantage of "Teksound" is the highest efficiency of sound insulation with a small thickness of the material itself.

This sound insulator is used for all surfaces of the room - it is fixed to the ceiling and walls, and also laid on the floor.

It should be noted that some craftsmen use "texound" in combination with thermal insulation materials, and such a bundle only increases the effectiveness of its use. But, unfortunately, the premises in apartments most often do not have extra space, which can be given over to a “powerful” multi-layered sound and heat-insulating structure. In this regard, a material was developed that is able to protect rooms from excessive noise and not reduce the size of the room.

To achieve the desired effect and protect the room from outside sounds, it is necessary to cover all surfaces of the room with soundproofing material, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve the desired result.

Texaund was developed in Spain by specialists from the well-known company TEXSA, and its mass industrial production was also started there. It is in this country that largest deposit the mineral aragonite, which is the main feedstock.

To be more precise, the base component is calcium carbonate (CaCO³). Aragonite is very rich in this compound. In addition, calcium carbonate is the main constituent of many calcareous rocks, including chalk, marble, and others.

As binders, harmless polymer compositions, and as a result, membranes of high density are obtained, but at the same time very flexible and elastic, with pronounced viscoelastic qualities, which is extremely important for sound insulation of complex building structures.

Sound insulation of rooms with this material is very effective even if canvases with a very small thickness are used. "Teksound"Able to absorb and scatter even sound waves of high intensity, which come not only from the outside, but are also created inside the room, for example, with very loud music.

Texounda canvas covered with a protective film

"Teksound" is produced in canvases (membranes) and goes on sale in rolls packed in polyethylene. It has the following technical and operational characteristics:

Name of material parameters	Indicators
Material density (kg/m³)	1900
Average web weight (kg/m²)	6.9
Area covered by one package (m²)	6.1
Weight of one package (kg)	42
Sound insulation coefficient Rw (average)	28
Flammability (GOST 30244-94)	G2
Elongation at break (%)	300
Manufacturing materials	mineral aragonite, plasticizers, polyolefins, spunbond

In addition, the material has the following advantages:

• "Texound" is resistant to temperature extremes. Its elasticity does not decrease at all even at negative temperatures up to -20 ° C .
• The material has a pronounced flexibility and plasticity, and this "Teksound" is somewhat reminiscent of rubber.

"Texound" with its plasticity resembles dense rubber

• The material is resistant to moisture and will never become a zone of mold or fungus, as it has antiseptic properties.
• The operating time of the “texound” is not limited.
• "Teksound" is perfectly combined with other materials, and can be applied in a complex system.

"Teksound"Subdivided by its thickness, size and shape of release, may have additional layers that improve its characteristics. The main brands are presented in the table:

Name	Noise isolator release form	Linear parameters of the material, mm
Texound 35	rolled	1220×8000×1.8
Texound 50	rolled	1220×8000×1.8
Texound 70	rolled	1220×6000×2.6
Texound100	sheet	1200×100×4.2
Texound SY 35	Self-adhesive roll	1220×8000×3.0
Texound SY 50	Self-adhesive roll	1220×6050×2.6
Texound SY 50 AL	Foil self-adhesive roll	1200×6000×2.0
Texound SY 70	Self-adhesive roll	1200×5050×3.8
Texound SY100	Self-adhesive sheet	1200×100×4.2
Texound FT 55 AL	With felt and foil layer	1220×5500×15.0
Texound FT 40	With felt layer	1220×6000×12.0
Texound FT 55	With felt layer	1200×6000×14.0
Texound FT 75	With felt layer	1220×5500×15.0
Texound 2FT 80	With two felt layers	1200×5500×24.0
"Texound S BAND-50"	Self-adhesive tape	50×6000×3.7
Glue "Homakoll", designed for "Teksound"	canister	8 liters

Installation of "texound"

Almost any base is suitable for mounting this material - concrete, drywall, plastic, wood, metal and others. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared - leveled, cleaned of old coatings, primed and dried.

If there is a qualitatively applied layer of plaster on the wall, then it must be primed, and then installation can be carried out directly on it.

The work can be done in two ways. In the first of them, only soundproofing material is used, and in the second, it is used in combination with a heat insulator.

The first option - without additional insulation

• Glue is applied to the prepared surface. For mounting " texound"A special mounting adhesive is used, which is sold in liquid form, ready for use, in canisters. After lubrication, it is necessary to wait 15÷20 minutes until the glue sets.

Marking and cutting canvases "Teksounda"

• Further, the soundproofing material itself is mounted on the glued wall, which must be measured and cut off in advance, and also pre-lubricated with glue.

Special glue is applied both to the surface of the wall and to the Texounda canvas itself.

• If self-adhesive material is purchased, then installation will be much easier, since you will not need to lay it, and you just need to remove it protective film and attach the material to the wall.
• Next, the “texound” sheet must be pressed as tightly as possible to the surface, and then additionally walk over it with a roller. This must be done in order to achieve its best adhesion to the wall surface over the entire area, without leaving air bubbles.

Welding the Texound joints with a gas burner

• Cloths "Teksounda"Be sure to overlap, by about 50 mm. The sheets are glued together hermetically. This process is carried out using "liquid nails" glue or by heating the material with hot air or gas burner- adjacent sheets are welded. If at least small gaps are left between the canvases during installation, then the effectiveness of sound insulation will be significantly reduced.

Fully texounded doorway

• If the Texound installation is carried out on the ceiling, then it is glued in small sheets, since the material is quite heavy, and it will simply be impossible to hold a solid sheet from wall to wall.
• After gluing the canvas, if necessary, it is additionally fixed on the wall with fasteners - "fungi", the very ones that are most often used for mounting polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

The second option - with the use of thermal insulation

Complex installation is carried out if the wall needs not only soundproof but also insulate. If there is such a task, then the work is carried out as follows:

• On the primed wall along the edges, the crate frame is fixed.

Frame for "Texound" along the perimeter of the wall

• The next step is to immediately glue Texound on the entire wall in one version, and in the other it is pre-laid heat-insulating material. However, the first method shows a higher efficiency for sound insulation.
• If thermal insulation is adjacent to the wall, then "texound" is first fixed with "fungi", and then additionally pressed with metal hanger strips.

Fixing the "Texounda" canvases with "fungi" dowels

• To achieve the required place for installing the insulation material, the metal profile of the frame is fixed in suspensions at a distance of 40 ÷ 50 mm from the wall. In this case, it is necessary to set each of the profiles according to the building level, otherwise the frame sheathing will not be even.

Installation of a metal frame on top of the soundproofing sheets

• The next step is the installation of insulation. The most environmentally friendly of suitable insulation materials that can be installed independently is basalt-based mineral wool. If financial facilities, then you can use the above-described "Shumanet BM", which is not only noise absorbing but good thermal insulation material.

• It fits tightly between the racks of the crate and is pressed against the Texound, mounted on the wall.
• Upon completion of the installation of insulation, the wall should look like this:

• It is advisable to tighten the heater vapor permeable diffuse membrane.
• The next step is . In some cases plywood or OSB sheets are used for sheathing.
• The sheets are fastened to the racks of the crate by self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the sheathing material by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

• Then the joints and holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws are sealed with putty.
• Further, the surface is primed and puttied completely, and after that you can decorate the walls with decorative material.

Drywall is the most comfortable material for alignment walls

The wall that received soundproofing and insulation protection, it is necessary to prepare for further work - to achieve flat surface, which will become the basis for finishing materials. As well as - in special publications of our portal.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Existing schemes for mounting "texound"

Masters apply various schemes installation of this soundproofing device. Depending on the convenience of performing work, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the required efficiency of wall insulation from external noise, you can choose any of them. The only disadvantage of these structures is their thickness, which even in the very best case will be at least 50 mm.

First option

This design will have a thickness of 50 mm.

• They begin to mount it with the fact that the prepared metal profiles from the side of their contact with the wall are pasted over with self-adhesive tape "Teksound S BAND 50". This must be done in order to avoid the transmission of sound and vibrations from the wall through the metal frame into the room.
• Further, the frame elements are fixed to the wall with dowels, and heat-insulating, sound-absorbing mats are mounted between them.
• Then, soundproofing material is glued onto the sheets of drywall, on their inner side. In this case, Texound 70 is well suited.
• After that. drywall is fixed on the racks of the frame, and its seams are sealed with putty.

Second option

The thickness of the structure with this option will be 60 mm.

• In this case, a thin heat insulator is first fixed to the wall. You can use foil insulation by setting it with a reflective surface towards the room. The insulation should cover the joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling, that is, go to them by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• On top of it is made installation of a metal frame, which in the same way as in the first version of the design, it is attached to the wall.
• Further, insulation mats are placed in the frame, which are covered with drywall with Texound 70 glued to it.

It should be noted here that the heat-insulating material attached to the wall can be replaced with "Teksound FT 75", which has an additional layer of felt.

Third option

The thickness of the third design option is 70 ÷ 80 mm, since it consists of more layers.

• The first layer to the wall is installed heat-insulating material.
• The second layer is the Texound sound-absorbing membrane.
• A crate is mounted on top of it.
• Then the insulation mats are installed.
• Sandwich panels are fixed to the structure with the last layer, consisting of two sheets of drywall, between which Texound is laid.

When purchasing soundproofing material of this type, it is recommended to provide the consultant of the selling company with the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. The sales assistant will help you make the right choice by determining the thickness and the best form of the Texound release.

Video: using "texound" for soundproofing in an apartment

Use of foam rubber mats as soundproofing

Acoustic foam can be called the most effective affordable material for soundproofing walls in an apartment. Due to its porous structure, this material perfectly absorbs and scatters sound vibrations.

Acoustic foam rubber is able to neutralize two types of noise - sound and vibration waves, that is, it muffles the sound and scatters low frequencies arising from surface vibrations, for example, knocking or "bass" of music.

The material is quite durable and can be mounted both as an independent soundproofing material and in combination with drywall. Foam mats are available in a wide range of sizes and can be embossed or have a flat surface.

Foam rubber is made by pressing polyurethane foam, after which cutting into standard blocks of 1000 × 2000 mm is carried out. The thickness of the mats varies from 10 to 120 mm. Material domestic production is available in two or three colors, while imported versions have a more diverse range of colors, including 10-12 colors.

Material relief types

Types of relief pattern of acoustic foam can be different. The depth of the relief determines both the total thickness of the material and its noise-absorbing properties.

The main types of reliefs used for the purpose of soundproofing rooms are presented in the tables below:

Material relief height (mm)	25	50	70	100
"Wedge"
	For moderate soundproofing of walls and ceilings.	Effective for absorbing standing sound waves and echoes in medium to small rooms.	For effective soundproofing of rooms of any size.	To absorb low frequencies, it is most often used in large halls.
"Pyramid"
	For moderate wall protection against the penetration of high and medium frequencies.	Standing wave protection in small spaces. In combination with traps for low frequencies, they can completely soundproof the room.	It is used for rooms of any size and is used in conjunction with additional elements soundproofing such as sound traps.	Same features as wedge material type

There are other, less frequently used acoustic foam elements.

Name of relief type	Characteristics
"Peak"	This relief of mats is less popular and has an unusual pattern. Its lack of demand is explained by lower soundproofing qualities than those of the materials mentioned above.
"Bass Trap"	Waves that have a low frequency are harder to dampen because they are longer. For this, bass traps are installed in each corner of the room, which are designed for rooms of any size.
"Traps of high and medium frequencies"	These elements are installed in large halls. They are designed to capture medium and high frequencies, and create the effect of scattering low frequencies. They are installed in vertical position, but if the blocks are cut in two and placed at the corners, they become traps for low frequencies.
"Corner Block"	Corner blocks are made in the form of a triangular beam. They are installed at the corners of the room and at the junctions of two surfaces, and also serve to dissipate low frequencies.
Decorative ceiling tiles	Available with and without embossed pattern. They are designed to change the relief and shape of the ceiling, with the help of which an additional soundproofing effect is achieved.
Insulating wedges	They are used to reduce vibrations from studio equipment and are used as a substrate under it.

Until recently, acoustic foam rubber was rarely used in apartments, since the material tends to accumulate dust. But in last years more and more residents of panel houses choose foam rubber to reduce the sound transmission of walls. Due to its high sound-absorbing and scattering qualities, this material is able to make the room almost completely soundproof, provided that it is mounted not only on walls, but also on the surface of the ceiling and floor.

It is very important to note that acoustic foam rubber does not lose its soundproofing qualities at all when it is closed with drywall. The main condition in creating such a design is that the foam mats themselves must be glued directly to the wall base, without any lining.

Soundproofing acoustic foam walls

Installing foam rubber on the walls is not too complicated, so you can easily do it yourself. In this case, it is worth considering the most acceptable method of soundproofing for the conditions of the apartment, but it should be noted right away that the area of ​​​​the room will decrease somewhat.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

• In order for the foam rubber to stick easily, it is best to prime the wall surface and dry it well.
• Next, the mats need to be fixed on the wall. They must fit snugly against its surface, otherwise the sound insulation effect will be partially lost.

• Foam mats can be glued on a wide double-sided mounting tape, liquid nails or heated silicone.
• When all the walls are covered with foam mats, you can proceed to the installation of a frame crate made of metal profiles or wooden beams. Frame guides are fixed at a distance of 50÷60 mm from the wall.
• Racks are mounted in the recesses of the relief pattern directly to the wall. Mounting holes are drilled straight through the foam.
• After fixing the frame of the crate, drywall sheets, plywood, PVC panels or other finishing materials are fixed on the rails. This will in no way reduce the efficiency of the sound absorption of the foam rubber layer, since it will be the first to receive all sound waves coming from outside, absorb them and scatter them.
• In the same way, the foam rubber is mounted on a crate, and then one of the types of suspended ceilings is fixed on it.
• Logs are laid on the floor over acoustic foam rubber, on which a plank or plywood floor is laid. Further, if desired, laminate, linoleum, carpet or other decorative coating can be laid on plywood.

It should be noted that the installation of acoustic mats does not require serious preparatory work. repair work, and if it is decided to leave the foam panels in open form, then their installation generally takes no more than one day.

Exposed material will require frequent cleaning with a powerful vacuum cleaner to keep a large amount of dust from accumulating inside this porous material. In the event that one of the panels for some reason has moved away from the wall, it can be quickly glued into place without any special preparations.

In addition to the considered soundproof materials, others are also presented in the assortment of building stores. But today, acoustic foam rubber, texound membranes, shumanet plates and similar sound insulators can be called the most effective and safest for installation in an apartment.

During construction or repair, walls, ceilings, floors and other surfaces are covered with special materials, to prevent heat leakage in the cold period and did not bother the heat in summer season. One of them is roll insulation, often used for large areas.

Advantages of roll material

This material has many advantages. The main thing is that the insulation in rolls does a good job of maintaining optimal temperatures indoors. There are other advantages:

The main types of insulation

Thermal insulation in twisted rolls can be used for both external and internal laying. There are options specially designed for pipes and communications. Rolled wall insulation is also available for sale directly under the wallpaper.

Raw materials for their production are also used differently. Thermal insulation from mineral components is the most common. Foamed polyethylene is also popular. Natural heaters like corks are less common and used. Some types have an additional layer in the form of foil or paper. Let's consider each option in more detail.

Special coating for thermal insulation

To improve the characteristics of their products, firms that produce rolled thermal insulation add certain coatings. The basis under them can be different.

Types of mineral wool in rolls

In this group of heaters there are several varieties. Their structure is the same, they differ in composition.

Any type of wool must be covered with a vapor barrier, especially in rooms with high humidity. And it also holds back the smallest particles of fibers that appear over time, negatively affecting a person. As part of the raw materials, formaldehydes are often used, which also affects health. Quality rolls should have a minimum of this substance

For laying mineral wool be sure to install the frame. On the walls, the panels with which it is held are pressed strongly so that the canvas does not move out over time. For the necessary protection from the cold, the number of layers can be increased.

Manufacturers often separate their product according to the purpose of the insulation. For ceilings and ceilings, the rolls will be lightened. For the main floor, walls, and other surfaces, the density of the material is usually increased. Due to this, the dimensions of the roll also change:

• length from 3 to 8 meters;
• thickness in 3 versions (50 mm, 100 mm, 150 mm);
• width from 0.6 m to 1.22 m.

Insulating wool manufacturers

Hardware stores offer a wide selection of mineral wool. Consider the features of the materials of some companies specializing in this area:

Has many positive qualities. It is obtained by filling heated polyethylene with gases. As a result, a mass is formed with many closed bubbles inside, which subsequently solidifies. For special strength, it is also “crosslinked”, i.e., the bonds of molecules are strengthened by chemical means.

Therefore, there are for sale two options: stitched and, respectively, not stitched. Both types have very low thermal conductivity, but the first one still has better characteristics, which is why it costs more (its density is 30 kg / m³). The general properties of materials are as follows:

The difference is that cross-linked polyethylene foam is able to absorb sounds well, but its fellow cannot boast of this. As a sound insulator, it works worse. Under mechanical action, the uncrosslinked version loses its shape irreversibly. The stitched one has a high compressive strength, which means it can be used for insulating horizontal surfaces.

Due to the thinness of the material, the length of the rolls can be up to 30 meters, the width is from 0.6 to 1.2 m. The thickness reaches 1 cm. . To fix the material on the wall, special glue is required.

Polyethylene foam brand Penofol

Insulation Penofol - appeared recently, but has already stood out among its own kind. It is not destroyed by weather conditions and aggressive environment. Heat insulators of this company have several varieties:

• foil coating can be fixed on one or both sides;
• rolls with an adhesive layer (simplifies installation even more);
• specialized type of isolation for communication networks;
• insulation for harsh conditions with a thickness of up to 40 mm.

Combined technology allows you to further reduce the thermal conductivity of insulated surfaces. moisture resistant and durable material, which does not require vapor barrier costs, can be used in various directions. Does not lose its properties in the temperature range from -60 to +100 С°.

Cork insulation for surfaces

An environmentally friendly and durable raw material for the production of thermal insulation is cork oak bark. Absolutely natural ingredients make the rolls safe for health. The crushed bark is connected with organic glue and pressed. The thickness ranges from 2 to 6 millimeters. The length of the roll reaches 10 meters, the width is mostly meter. Most often, in this form, the cork goes under the wallpaper, on the substrate for the laminate or "warm floor".

Thermal conductivity index not inferior to mineral wool, but the layer is used much thinner. Cork insulation is slightly flammable, poorly absorbs water and delays noise. However, its density is high, respectively, and the weight is large. The margin of safety is high, the service life is declared up to 50 years. Negative side is the price of "naturalness", in comparison with the rest, it is quite high.

This insulation is produced mainly by Portuguese companies: Wicanders, Izora, Amorim. They offer a wide range of insulation rolls, which can also serve as wall decoration. Installation is also simple, basically the cork is “planted” on glue.

Modern technologies provide huge selection heat insulators for any premises and structures. The selection criteria are based on which surface needs to be covered and how much the buyer is willing to pay for it in order to maintain comfort in their home.

The choice of thermal insulation material is a responsible process. Today, many manufacturers began to produce a heater that is capable of performing several functions at once. It not only makes the surface warm, but also creates reliable protection against wind, moisture, steam and corrosion.

Kinds

If you decide to insulate the walls, then going to a hardware store, you can see that the range is quite wide outside. Each of the available heaters differs not only in its thermal insulation qualities. Consider the main ones.

Liquid materials

A few years ago, builders actively used solid heat-insulating materials for wall insulation. But not so long ago, new ones with a liquid consistency began to appear on the construction market. These products are similar in appearance and consistency to paint, which is why they are often referred to as insulation paint.

Pictured are liquid heat-insulating materials for walls

In terms of composition, liquid thermal insulation is presented in the form of small capsules made of ceramics and glass. They are filled with air or an inert gas. The role of the binder is performed by acrylic polymers. finished product is a thick dough.

Rigid materials

Rigid heaters can be used to insulate walls, the installation of which is much easier. They are geometrically correct plates, thanks to which you can get a perfectly flat surface. It is then simply plastered or veneered various materials. For the most part, they fit like.

In the photo, rigid heat-insulating materials for walls:

Solid insulation does not shrink and does not crumple. Installation of solid insulation does not require crates, frames and other structures. The materials are highly durable, and their service life is more than 50 years.

Warm plaster

Among the advantages of this material, high strength indicators can be noted. This suggests that the surface is very difficult to damage, which cannot be said about previous materials. Warm plaster refers to a liquid heat insulator. It's nothing but cement-sand mortar with the addition of natural and polymeric fillers.

On the photo-warm plaster

Thanks to them, it is possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of the original composition. The thermal conductivity of walls with a heat insulator will directly depend on the fillers used. When laying out a thin layer 1-1.5 cm thick, 50 ml foam can be replaced. But what it looks like and how warm plaster is used for the facade can be understood by looking at the photo and information

Gas-filled plastics

This material for thermal insulation of walls is considered one of the most effective. To obtain it, the method of foaming different materials is used. The result of this process is a sheet foam heat insulator.

Pictured are gas-filled plastics

Its installation is simple and convenient. Expanded polystyrene can be safely attributed to the leaders among all produced foams. You can use a heat insulator to insulate walls from the outside. But what and where exactly it is used is described in this article.

liquid foam

This is another option liquid insulation. Its name is penoizol. Its filling is carried out with the help of hoses between the walls, in the cracks, formwork at the time of construction. This option of insulation refers to the budget, since its cost is 2 times cheaper compared to other analogues.

Pictured is liquid foam for walls

Liquid foam is able to resist microbes, is breathable, does not burn well, and has a long service life. But what kind of liquid thermal insulation for walls from the inside exists in addition to the above, is described in this

Extruded polystyrene foam

For the manufacture of this material, polystyrene granules are used. They are melted under the action high temperature. The material is then extruded from the extruder and foamed. This gives such .

Pictured is extruded polystyrene foam for walls

Thus, it is possible to obtain a strong, durable and breathable insulation. It is in excellent contact with various wall coverings.

glass wool

This material is a kind of mineral fiber. For its manufacture, glass cullet is used. The release of glass wool occurs with different density and thickness. If you need thin fiberglass, then you need to choose a material with a thickness of 5 cm. This is enough to replace a meter brick wall.

In the photo - glass wool for the wall

Fiberglass is highly fire resistant and resilient. It is characterized by excellent indicators of heat and sound insulation. But when installing fiberglass, you need to take care of your safety by wearing a respirator.

Selection criteria

When choosing a heat-insulating material for the insulation of external and internal walls, it is necessary to take into account a number of requirements:

1. Thermal insulation indicators. The higher this figure, the better the material will retain heat.
2. Weight. The lighter the heat insulator, the less difficulties arise during its installation.
3. Vapor permeability. If this indicator is high, then excess fluid will freely leave.
4. combustibility. At the same time, indicators can determine how flammable the material is and whether it poses a threat to the house and its residents.
5. Ecological cleanliness. By purchasing modern insulation, you can be sure that it consists exclusively of natural raw materials.
6. Lifetime. It is necessary to select a heater that has a long service life so as not to spend extra effort and money on re-work.
7. Price. And although the price of a heat insulator is indicated as the last criterion, for many it is the most important. Of course, you must understand what more expensive material, the higher its technical characteristics.

When working with walls, it is useful to know how it differs.

Thermal insulation of walls is a responsible job that requires a choice quality insulation. Today, there are enough options on the construction market, each of which has its own technical characteristics and is suitable for insulating walls outside or inside the house.

The problem of insulation outside and inside the dwelling is acute in any climatic zone. The main task is to choose the right thermal insulation material. And it's not as easy as it seems. It is necessary to know such properties of insulation as thermal conductivity, water absorption, strength, service life, as well as the subtleties of installation.

The process of insulation usually affects all the structures of a dwelling - walls, floors, ceilings. External insulation or combined insulation (inside + from the street side) is preferable. Thermal insulation only from inside the dwelling is undesirable, since the dew point will move even deeper into the wall or move to the border of the wall and insulation.

Thus, it is not enough to optimally select a heat-insulating material; it is necessary to properly install it.

Important. The stove (inside) and chimney (outside) also need to be insulated. If this is not done, the walls close to the furnace will crack. An uninsulated chimney is covered inside with condensate, which, mixing with exhaust gases, turns into acid. It quickly corrodes the walls of the chimney, rendering it unusable.

What are heaters

Modern thermal insulation materials are diverse. In private housing construction, along with high-tech insulation (polyurethane foam, penoizol), natural insulation is still used. This is due to their availability and low cost.

The following thermal insulation materials are used inside and outside to insulate walls, ceilings and floors:

• expanded clay (concrete attic and interfloor floors are insulated with this material from the inside, expanded clay is also poured into the cavity between the walls);
• cork (wall and floor insulation from the inside);
• ecowool (walls, floors, attic - it is preferable to insulate from the inside due to such material properties as hygroscopicity);
• mineral wool (walls, floors, attic floor- suitable for insulation both inside and outside);
• foam (outside walls, concrete screed);
• penoplex (due to such a property as low water absorption, it is possible to insulate walls from the inside and outside, concrete screed, roofing, interfloor and attic floors);
• penoizol (walls and floors - it is preferable to insulate from the inside, the property of penoizol to absorb water well requires accuracy with external insulation);
• polyurethane foam (any surface, including metal and plastic pipes for hot and cold water supply - insulation inside and from the street).

Mineral wool refers to non-combustible insulation, so it is used for thermal insulation of stoves and chimneys.

Thermal insulation materials for walls

Wall insulation is best done outside during the construction phase. Wall thermal insulation materials are divided into natural and artificial. There is also a division into bulk, plate / mat, roll and foil roll.

Natural heaters include:

• mats and roll insulation made of hemp and algae (rare and expensive insulation, suitable for thermal insulation of walls);
• clay plaster (adobe);

Artificial thermal insulation materials for walls are:

• expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
• polyurethane foam (sprayed thermal insulation);
• penoizol (poured into the cavity);
• ecowool (cellulose loose insulation);
• mineral wool (stone/basalt) in rolls, slabs, mats;
• thin roll insulation with or without foil.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials (comparative) can be seen below.

This parameter is measured in W / m * K. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat in the living space.

This parameter is directly related to the density of the insulation. Loose thermal insulation has a much lower thermal conductivity than solid insulation:

Styrofoam 0.045

Penoplex 0.032

Polyurethane foam 0.019 - 0.035

Penoizol 0.028 - 0.038

Ecowool 0.038 – 0.045

Mineral wool 0.045 - 0.07

Measured in %/day. An important technical characteristic showing how quickly thermal insulation materials absorb water. A high score is not a reason to stop using it. Insulation with high water absorption capacity requires careful double-sided waterproofing.

Comparative characteristics of materials:

Mineral wool 2

It is measured in mg/(m.h.Pa). The characteristic shows how much the material breathes. All breathable insulation can be used to insulate wooden walls. According to experts, the vapor permeability of the insulation is not always useful. Often the complete clogging of pores and the organization of micro-ventilation are much more effective.

Comparative characteristics of vapor permeability:

Styrofoam 0.018

Polyurethane foam 0.04 - 0.05

Penoizol 0.21 - 0.24

Mineral wool and ecowool 0.3

Durability

This parameter is very important for thermal insulation. If the other characteristics of several heaters are the same, then it is this parameter that tips the scales in favor of choosing the most durable insulation.

Styrofoam ≤ 13

Penoplex up to 40

Polyurethane foam up to 50

Penoizol up to 75

Ecowool at least 50

Mineral wool at least 70 years old

After analyzing this data, you can form your own opinion about different heaters and choose the ones that are best suited for your purposes.

Important. natural thermal insulation materials from hemp and algae have low thermal conductivity, but they absorb water well, which, coupled with high cost, makes them unpopular for insulating walls from the outside and from the inside.

The exception is expanded clay and cork. The first is poured between the walls in the well masonry and spilled with cement milk. This prevents the material from settling and increases its strength. This wall insulation is cheap, buying it is also not a problem. To reduce the thermal conductivity of insulated walls, it is necessary to mix expanded clay of various fractions.

Cork is an excellent thermal insulator. Its properties are such that cold cannot penetrate into an insulated room, and heat cannot leave it. In addition, it does not absorb water and has an attractive appearance. True, the cost of such a heater is significant, so it is more often used for finishing walls with additional thermal insulation properties.

Floor heaters

Of the many heaters for thermal insulation of the floor, expanded clay and foam plastic are often used (less often foam plastic, since it is much more expensive than foam plastic). Cork can also be used to insulate the floor (as a substrate for linoleum or carpet, as well as a finish). The properties of this material are unique. It does not absorb water spilled on the floor, perfectly dampens noise, has a velvety texture to the touch. Its surface is never cold.

Expanded clay is used to insulate the floor in the attic. It strongly absorbs moisture, so it is necessary to make double-sided waterproofing. Because of this characteristic, it is not recommended to insulate a wooden hemmed attic floor with expanded clay (material that accidentally picks up moisture increases significantly in weight).

High density foam is ideal for insulating floors in cement screed. The same can be said about penoplex, although it is more expensive, so it is used much less frequently for floor insulation.

Mineral wool is another insulation that can be used to insulate both the floors between floors and the attic. Due to hygroscopicity, mineral wool requires double-sided waterproofing.

The technology of floor insulation with foam plastic includes several stages:

1. Preparation of the base (cleaning from debris and dust).
2. Floor treatment with deep penetration primers.
3. Laying a waterproofing film (necessarily with a call to the walls, the joints are glued with construction tape).
4. The foam is fixed to the floor with glue, the joints are coated with sealant.
5. Be sure to leave a gap between the walls and the insulation.
6. A special reinforcing mesh is installed on the insulated floor (it is mounted on racks and is located at a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm above the level of insulation).
7. It remains to fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture.

Ceiling heaters

It is possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside only if the height of the room allows it. For these purposes, aerated concrete slabs are well suited. They weigh very little and are easily attached with foam board adhesive. The joints are covered with sealant. Additionally, foil insulation can be laid.

Styrofoam and foam plastic, as well as mineral wool, are used only from the side of the attic (as described above).

Heat insulating roll materials

Thin rolled polyethylene foam insulation is a weak obstacle to cold air entering the room through micropores and cracks. However, foil roll materials- a great addition to the warming cake.

Foil thermal insulation (penofol, foil isolon) laid on top of any insulation will play a dual role - repulsive thermal insulation and waterproofing. In this case, there is no need to purchase separately waterproofing materials.

Advice. Rolled foil heaters are demanding for installation. They will not work if, for example, lining is laid directly on them. A working gap between the foil and the finish is required. Therefore, on top of rolled foil insulation, a crate is always made with a thickness of bars of at least 3 cm.

Various types of heat-insulating materials (bulk, roll, slab) allow for the insulation of various surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors. Refractory thermal insulation (non-combustible) is suitable for insulating furnaces (not the furnace itself, but nearby walls are insulated).

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or foam

gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
polyurethane foam
cellulose wadding

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slabs.

Loose heaters: varieties and scope

This material is best suited for warming wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

• incombustibility;
• Long service life;

• Low strength indicators;

Expanded polystyrene or foam

• Affordable price;

• combustibility;
• fragility;

• Long service life;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam, one can note the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof design. See also: "Which insulation for the floor under the linoleum to choose and how to lay."

gypsum fiber

Cork

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good plasticity;

Expanded clay

polyurethane foam

• Fast installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;

cellulose wadding

• The integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;

• combustibility;
• Difficulty of installation.

Conclusion

Wall insulation inside the house: advantages and disadvantages

You can find quite a lot of statements against the insulation of the walls of the house inside. Say, with such insulation, problems of wet corners arise, dampness starts in the walls, as a result, fungus and unpleasant odors ... The purpose of this article is to figure out what causes these problems and, most importantly, how they can be avoided and still insulate the walls home from the inside. Well, because such insulation has a number of advantages.

Advantages of internal wall insulation

Insulation of walls inside the house has the following advantages:

• You can insulate at any time of the year, regardless of the weather.
• no need to build too high scaffolds (unless, of course, we are talking about the insulation of a residential building, and not some kind of "Palace of Congresses" :))
• if it is necessary to insulate not in a private building, but in some high-rise building, then for external insulation it is necessary to coordinate a project to change the facade. Not to mention the fact that it is expensive in itself - you cannot do without hired specialists. Well, inside your apartment ...

What are the disadvantages of internal wall insulation and how to avoid them?

Internal wall insulation also has disadvantages.

When insulating from the inside, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room decreases

The first minus of warming the house from the inside is that the thickness of the wall will increase inward, due to which the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will decrease.

It will not be possible to avoid this at all, since the insulation has a thickness in any case. But you can minimize it - if the insulation layer is not very thick. I am hinting at the choice of a heater with the best thermal insulation properties ... For now, I am only hinting, but I will specifically say below.

With internal insulation, the microclimate in the room worsens

The second minus: the internal insulation of the house can lead to a deterioration in the microclimate in the room. This is exactly what all the opponents of such insulation are talking about. What are we talking about?

The wall behind the heater is cold. Therefore, in winter, the water vapor formed in the room, passing through the layers interior decoration and insulation, condenses on the inner surface of the wall. The result - the wall gradually accumulates moisture, which does not have time to evaporate, which is why on the walls - at a temperature of +10 and above! - a fungus, mold settles, the house smells of dampness, appears on clothes, furniture, books white coating... not much pleasant.

The described problem can be avoided if you avoid mistakes during construction and choose the right material for insulation. What are these mistakes and what is the best way to insulate the house inside, read on.

When insulating indoors, cold bridges remain

The third minus of wall insulation inside the house: at the junction of interfloor / attic floors with outer wall there are cold bridges through which heat leaks still occur (orange arrows):

We have this minus only if we did not treat the insulation in good faith enough: for example, we insulated the walls, and scored on the floors and ceilings. But what does technology have to do with it if you haven’t welded your own “bowler”? To avoid this minus, you need to create an inextricable heat-insulating circuit from the inside of the entire room:

Only and everything.

How to avoid the disadvantages of internal insulation?

So, what tips can you find to smooth out the cons of internal insulation? And are all the tips worthwhile?

Tip 1. A vapor barrier with one-sided conductivity is placed between the wall finish and the insulation. This is advised to do when they insulate from the inside with mineral wool.

But let's look at the picture:

With internal insulation, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the wall, and the mineral wool insulation begins to take moisture from the wall. And then, after a month or two, it appears bad smell, bacteria begin to develop in the mineral wool ... we do not see this, but we feel the smell, while we cannot understand where it comes from.

But how can it be: after all, there is a vapor barrier that should not let moisture into the insulation! Theoretically it is. But in practice it is not possible to provide one hundred percent sealing. Why? Let's remember how the vapor barrier and further sheathing are attached? They put a profile for drywall, stretch the film ... then they screw the drywall, PASSING THE SECURITIES THROUGH THE FILM - and where is the hermetic vapor barrier here? And along the perimeter of the wall, it is not possible to provide 100% sealing.

And the air in the wool itself has moisture, which condenses as soon as the wall has cooled sufficiently.

Conclusion: any insulation that allows steam to pass through is not suitable for internal insulation!

Tip 2. When designing insulation inside the house, you need to take into account the process of moisture transfer through the building envelope. That is, the vapor permeability of materials in the “pie” of the structure should decrease from room to street.

Difficult said? Simpler: a non-vapour-permeable material should be in the room, behind it - a material with less vapor permeability, behind it - with even less, etc.

For example, you need to do wall insulation panel house from within. Question: what? mineral wool? Steam passes through mineral wool much better than through concrete (I must say: steam practically does not pass through concrete).

Conclusion: do not do the insulation from the inside with mineral wool of panel (and brick, and gas-block, etc.) walls, but choose another insulation. Non-vapor permeable. For example, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. (Actually, mineral wool for internal insulation is suitable only for frame houses and attics, which also have mineral wool inside the frame.)

Comment! The author believes that the foam for insulating the walls of the house inside is BAD! For good health. But if your opinion is different, then do at least such insulation correctly: the walls must be aligned (!) And the insulation sheet should fit snugly (without gaps!) To this flat surface (i.e., if we fix the insulation with glue, then the sheet must be smeared over the entire surface, and not stick a few dots and / or stripes on it).

Tip 3. In any case, good ventilation should be provided. There are no comments here, because this is correct.

Insulation requirements for internal insulation

Internal insulation imposes the following requirements on the insulation:

• durability,
• don't be afraid of fire
• aging resistance,
• environmental Safety,
• biological resistance (not edible for mice, moths, molds…),
• ability to keep shape
• sufficient thermal insulation properties.

It is advisable, before buying a heater, to check the availability of various certificates for fire and sanitary safety. But if the conclusion about fire safety You can still believe, but about sanitary - not always: many modern materials are not at all environmentally friendly, even if their purity is stated in the certificates.

Conclusion: it is better to focus not only (and not so much) on certificates, but on common sense, reason, practical experience, the test of time.

And now the question is: what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the inside?

What kind of insulation to insulate the house from the inside?

Why mineral wool is not suitable, I have already said a couple of times, I hope that's enough. So what to insulate? There are materials that perfectly solve all problems. These are the materials that absolutely vapor-tight.

First, extruded polystyrene foam. We use only the one that has a "groove-comb". Extruded polystyrene foam has a very good thermal resistance, so the thickness of the sheet for internal insulation is only 20 ... 30 mm. Result: both the wall is healthy and the minimum area is taken.

If the issue of ecology is important to you, then we pay attention to another material: foam glass. Here there is the issue of sealing joints: if polystyrene can become tightly sheet to sheet, then foam glass has rougher edges.

Types of insulation for the walls of the house: outside and inside for wooden and frame houses + Video

Therefore, foam glass is often placed on bituminous mastic, because of which again the question of ecology. Then it is better to seal the joints silicone sealant or liquid rubber. Foam glass itself can be glued to polyurethane foam glue, in extreme cases, to mounting foam.

The third material often used for insulation from the inside is ordinary white foam. The problem with this material is that it has pores. Styrofoam with a density of less than 35 kg / m3 has a large number of technological pores, which is why it passes steam! The lower the density of the foam, the more vapor permeable it is. And the older the foam, the larger the pores, the vapor permeability of the foam is greater - even with the promised density of more than 35 kg / m3. Therefore, for internal insulation, it is better to buy high-quality material. Again, the issue of ecology, i.e. health.

If all of the above did not scare you away from insulating the walls inside the house (or you simply have nowhere to go), then in the next article we will analyze ways to insulate the walls from the inside. See you.

interior wall insulation

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or foam
Extruded polystyrene foam
gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
polyurethane foam
cellulose wadding

Insulation is used to prevent heat loss in a house or individual rooms. The arrangement of insulation is a rather serious process, and one of the leading roles in this matter is the choice of a suitable heat-insulating material. About what kind of heaters for the floor are, and will be discussed in this article.

Insulation materials are available in two formats:

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Bulk and other materials.

Both categories include a fairly wide range of materials with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. The most popular thermal insulation materials for the floor will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is available in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slabs. This material is best suited for warming wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

The list of positive qualities of mineral wool looks like this:

• Good resistance to low temperatures;
• incombustibility;
• Long service life;
• Chemical resistance;
• stable physical performance.

It was not without drawbacks - mineral wool has the following negative qualities:

• Considerable dimensions, due to which thermal insulation layer occupies a large volume;
• Low strength indicators;
• Poor moisture resistance.

Mineral wool, when moisture gets on it, immediately decreases in volume, and even if it is dried, the heat-insulating properties of the material will deteriorate many times over. To prevent this phenomenon, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer during the arrangement of insulation.

A good solution to the issue of moisture would be the use of fiberglass - this material can absorb liquid and does not lose its characteristics after drying. However, the choice will not be easy - mineral wool is well suited for fire safety.

Expanded polystyrene or foam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of small balls interconnected. The production of expanded polystyrene is carried out according to two technologies - press and non-press, and the difference between the materials obtained is small. However, most often, extruded polystyrene foam with PS marking is used for floor insulation.

As a rule, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you need to decide which insulation to choose for a floor with water or electric heating, then profile plates are much better suited, for the manufacture of which dense polystyrene foam is used - this material has a relief surface that prevents damage to the heating elements and improves adhesion to the surface.

Expanded polystyrene has many advantages:

• Excellent strength indicators;
• Good thermal insulation characteristics;
• Affordable price;
• The ability to prevent the penetration of moisture;
• Excellent resistance to low temperatures;
• Simple installation, which is determined by the format of the produced material.

Expanded polystyrene also has disadvantages:

• combustibility;
• The destruction of the material during prolonged exposure to sunlight;
• Inability to pass air;
• fragility;
• When a small amount of water gets inside the plates and its subsequent freezing, the structure of the expanded polystyrene is destroyed, therefore, during installation, it will be necessary to install a waterproofing layer;
• During the installation process, seams appear between the plates, which then need to be sealed, for which mounting foam or sealant is used.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made by extrusion, which is the reason for its name. The production technology of extruded polystyrene foam makes it possible to create a floor insulation with a monolithic microstructure, consisting of air-filled airtight cells. There are no pores in these cells, so moisture and steam cannot get inside the material. See also: "What kind of insulation under the laminate is better to lay."

The list of advantages of such material looks like this:

• High strength compared to foam;
• Long service life;
• Good resistance to atmospheric precipitation and influence of ultra-violet rays;
• High resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• No toxic emissions;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam, one can note the inability to “breathe” and good flammability, which will not allow creating a fireproof design.

Electrical, sound and noise insulation materials

See also: "Which insulation for the floor under the linoleum to choose and how to lay."

gypsum fiber

Gypsum fiber is the best option for warming any floor covering. The versatility of this material is its main advantage, which makes it possible to insulate even structures with electric floor heating.

To equip a dry screed, as the technology of gypsum fiber insulation is called, a minimum of knowledge and time is required - it is enough to follow the correct work algorithm. In addition, it is worth knowing that gypsum fiber resists moisture very poorly, and the cost of the material is quite high.

Cork

For the manufacture of such thermal insulation, cork oak bark is used. As a rule, cork insulation is produced in the format of plates, the thickness of which varies from 25 to 50 cm. The plates can be based on cork granules connected with resin, or pre-crushed pressed cork bark.

Cork insulation has many advantages:

• Environmental Safety;
• Light weight;
• High strength;
• Good plasticity;
• Excellent resistance to moisture and mold;
• Ease of installation and work with the material;
• Incombustibility and absence of toxic emissions during smoldering;
• Long service life - cork can last more than 50 years.

Of the shortcomings of cork insulation, only the high cost of the material can be distinguished.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay belongs to the category of loose insulating materials. The arrangement of thermal insulation using expanded clay has been used for a very long time - this material has become popular for its good thermal insulation characteristics and the ability to absorb moisture without consequences.

The most important problem when installing such insulation is the need to create a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm - it turns out far from the thinnest floor insulation. However, there will be no particular difficulties with this - the work is easily done by hand and requires, for the most part, only time.

polyurethane foam

A good option for insulation for any surface is polyurethane foam spraying. Polyurethane foam is a small capsule filled with air. The use of this material does not require the arrangement of hydro or vapor barrier. In addition, polyurethane foam applied to the floor practically does not absorb moisture.

This material has many advantages, among which stand out:

• Undemanding to leveling the surface;
• Fast installation;
• No joints;
• Excellent elasticity;
• Neutral reaction to a mold and influence of microorganisms.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam insulation is the complexity of spraying - it is impossible to carry out this work on your own without proper skills.

cellulose wadding

Cellulose wool is a material made from wood fibers with a fine-grained structure. Laying of this material can be carried out using two technologies - wet and dry. When using the wet method, the cotton wool is blown wet, which allows you to create a monolithic coating. Dry laying looks a little simpler - for this, cotton wool must be covered and tamped.

Of the advantages of cellulose wool, the following qualities can be distinguished:

• The integrity of the coating;
• Low cost;
• Good indicators of thermal insulation;
• No need to equip vapor barrier.

The main disadvantages of cotton wool are:

• combustibility;
• Weak ductility and poor compression resistance;
• Difficulty of installation.

Conclusion

The presented heaters are the most popular and are used quite often. To choose which insulation to use for the floor, you need to understand the characteristics of all thermal insulation materials and choose the best option for a particular situation.

Warming of a private house

If your country house is not able to retain heat at the proper level, and you constantly freeze in it in winter, then you should think about warming it. Of course, you can flood the fireplace, turn it on in each of the rooms electric heater and thus spend the cold winter evenings. But in order to solve this problem once and for all and not to spend fabulous sums on gas and electricity bills during the cold season, it is better to insulate your country cottage. After that, you will not only live in warmth, tranquility and comfort in winter, but will also save energy.

Stages of insulation

Warming process country house consists of a number of steps:

• foundation insulation,
• floor insulation,
• wall insulation (internal and external),
• ceiling insulation,
• roof insulation.

Below in the article we will consider in detail some of these stages.

In order to achieve the maximum effect from the insulation carried out, it is necessary to insulate the house in a complex way. It is very important to use only high-quality materials.

thermal imaging

Many believe that building insulation with the help of professionals is much better. This is explained by the specifics of the work of a specialist. As a rule, a built cottage loses heat due to its design flaws. It is best to identify these shortcomings and identify all weak spots at home using thermal imaging. Having identified weaknesses, the specialist will be able to pay maximum attention to them. And only a professional with his special equipment can take such a picture.

Wall insulation

As mentioned above, the insulation of the house should be carried out in a complex. Very often, the heat loss distribution diagram shows that most of the heat is lost through the walls of the house. Therefore, it is better to start insulating the house just from the walls.

Wall insulation can be:

There are a number of features that need to be taken into account.

When combining internal wall insulation with external insulation, certain proportions must be observed - the level of thermal resistance of the external insulation should be three times the level of the internal one.

Internal walls

As a result of the internal insulation of the walls, the enclosing structure does not accumulate heat. Over time, fungus may appear on the walls inside the house, as condensation will occur between the wall and the thermal insulation layer.

Another significant disadvantage of using only this type of insulation is the fact that the walls will be in the winter in the sub-zero temperature zone.

External walls

If applicable external insulation walls, then all of the above disadvantages are absent. Besides, this species wall insulation will provide the house with a much longer service life. This is explained by the fact that with external insulation, the possibility of the formation of various fungi on the walls and a house with outer side is additionally protected from negative impacts surrounding factors.

The only drawback of external wall insulation can be called the seasonality of the work, since this insulation can be carried out only in the warm season.

Conventionally, external wall insulation is divided into three main methods:

• insulation installation with inside enclosing structures,
• laying insulation inside the building envelope,
• laying insulation on the outside of the building envelope (this system is called a wet type system).

The choice of insulation

After you have chosen a method of insulation for your home, you need to correctly select the material for future work. Different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, which must be taken into account when choosing a material. If this was not taken into account, then the material may deform over time, cracks will appear on it.

When using wet type insulation, an important parameter is vapor permeability, as well as the calculation of moisture transfer. That is, the moisture winter period will accumulate as a result of temperature differences, should be completely removed during the summer period. Such calculations should be carried out taking into account the level of average temperatures in your area. If this factor is neglected, then excess moisture will lead to the appearance of fungi.

Floor insulation

Conduct floor insulation in the house should be comprehensive. Only in this way can a good result be achieved. Because concrete is high level thermal conductivity, then during the construction of country houses it is recommended to insulate the foundations from the outside.

Before starting to insulate the floor of the house, if there is a basement or basement, they are first insulated. The floor during insulation should not be raised higher than the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brick.

Stages of work

Typically, floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Crushed stone is laid on the ground (the layer thickness should be 10 cm).
2. A layer of sand is poured over the rubble (the layer thickness should also be 10 cm).
3. Lay thermal insulation boards.
4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. Perform concrete screed.
6. Lay the flooring.

This floor insulation algorithm is the simplest, but there are others. They are selected in accordance with the functional properties of the future floor.

The most common schemes for floor insulation in country cottages are as follows:

• Above underground.
• Floors in wet operation.
• Floors in the cold attic.
• Floors laid with heating cable.
• Floors above the basement.

  Thermal insulation of the house

Ceiling insulation

Ceiling heat loss is about ten percent. And although at first glance this figure does not seem so significant, but we are considering the insulation of the house in the complex.

For ceiling insulation it is very important to choose good material. It is worth giving preference to safe, as well as environmentally friendly materials. In the event of a fire, fire and hot air tend to rise, so it is very important that the selected materials are not combustible and do not emit suffocating smoke.

To insulate the ceiling, the following materials are suitable:

• ecowool,
• mineral wool,
• polyethylene films,
• polypropylene films.

The listed materials are inexpensive and meet all the above requirements.

Floor insulation in the attic

If in country house there is an attic, then the insulation of the ceiling is carried out in two stages. First you need to insulate the floor in the attic, and only then directly and the ceiling itself.

A vapor barrier material is first attached to the ceiling, then a heater is laid (for example, sheets of mineral wool). A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation - a waterproofing film. After last stage ceiling insulation in the house can be considered complete. Further, the ceilings can be sheathed with clapboard, or a false ceiling system can be installed.

Video. Proper insulation of the walls of the house. Outside or inside? Process physics

Video. Insulation of the facade of a private residential building

Thermal insulation, warming

How to insulate the floors in a private house with your own hands?

A well-insulated home is always more comfortable. And heating costs are much lower. In this article, we will tell you about how you can insulate a house well, both during the construction process and when it has already been built. You will learn what materials are used for this and, most importantly, how to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals.

What can be done if the house is cold despite heating?

When building a house Special attention should be given to insulation, especially floor insulation. If this is not done, the house will always be cold and damp. It will be necessary to increase the heating power, therefore, additional material costs await you. Isn't it easier to make high-quality insulation? Below we will talk about how this can be relatively easy to do with your own hands. Well, if you hired builders, then based on the material of the article, you can always control their work.

It all starts with the foundation

Insulation of a shallow strip foundation

Yes, still on initial stage construction should take care of the insulation and waterproofing of the foundation. For example, you are building a small house on a shallow strip foundation - the easiest and most cost-effective way to build a foundation for a building. In this case, it is recommended to stick cheap insulation on the sides of the finished concrete tape, for example, foam plastic, and lay roofing material on top. Both polystyrene and roofing material can be glued onto bituminous mastic. The roofing material tapes are overlapped, and the seams are fastened with a blowtorch fire.

Before the walls are erected, a waterproofing layer of 2 layers of roofing material is laid on the upper part of the foundation.

Only these fairly simple measures alone will not allow dampness to penetrate concrete, it will not freeze in winter, which means that it will become much more comfortable to live in such a house, because there will be no heat leakage. And the service life of the foundation will increase many times over.

Warming of the slab foundation

In private construction on heterogeneous soils, a monolithic foundation is often used as a foundation. reinforced concrete slab. It is insulated in the same way, only insulation and waterproofing are laid over the entire upper surface of the base, except for those places where walls will be erected. In these places, only waterproofing is attached.

Basement insulation

If it is planned to build a basement under the house, then a recessed strip foundation. Insulation and waterproofing during the construction of such a foundation is carried out both from the outside and from the inside. Both the floor and the basement ceiling must be insulated. From the inside, the basement is often insulated with a material called " liquid rubber". A heater is glued on it, and a finishing lining is mounted on top, on the crate.

Important! Insulation should always be done together with waterproofing.

What if the house is already built?

Here, of course, there will be more work, but it is still possible to make insulation, you just have to dig trenches along the perimeter of the building to the depth of the foundation and insulate it from the sides. If the house already has floors, then they will have to be dismantled, if they are wooden, remove linoleum or other coating, if a cement screed is used as the floor. To insulate the floor inside the house, you can use both cheap materials and better ones, for example, penoplex. It costs, of course, more expensive than polystyrene or mineral wool, but has many advantages :

• insulation sheets have different sizes and thicknesses, which allows you to choose the most suitable for a given room;

• each sheet has a spike connection, which avoids gaps during installation.

If, nevertheless, foam plastic is chosen as a heater, then all the cracks must be “blown out” with mounting foam. If this is not done, "bridges" of cold are formed.

When insulating with foam plastic or other similar material, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. When insulating the floor inside the house, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier made of polyethylene foil over the insulation. It is attached over the insulation with double-sided tape. It is also necessary to provide a gap around the perimeter of the room with a width of 1 cm. It will not allow the screed to crack from temperature changes. This seam can be treated with foamed vinyl.

Floor installation

Well, the insulation is done, now you can proceed with the installation of the floor. If you want to pour a cement screed, it is recommended to lay on the surface of the insulation metal mesh. It will make the screed more durable and will not allow it to crack and crumble over time. It is recommended to lay high-quality insulated linoleum or carpet on the screed.

If possible, it is best to use not a screed, but lay a wooden floor.

Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

To do this, logs are laid over the insulation, on which the floorboards are attached. In this case, the air space between the insulation and the floor surface will create additional insulation. Floorboards should be selected good quality and mount them according to all the rules, that is, tightly fit spike connections using wedges. This will avoid the formation of gaps between the floor boards.

The benefits of insulation

• dampness will disappear in the house, therefore, comfort will increase;

• even in winter cement floor it will be possible to walk barefoot, which is important if there are small children in the house, because they play on the floor;

• heating costs will be significantly reduced.

Some nuances

When insulating an already built house, be prepared for the fact that you will have to outweigh the doors, as the floor will rise. Of course, such work, like all other insulation work, requires a certain amount of money and time, but it pays off handsomely. In addition, you can do everything yourself, which will save a lot.

Video: Floor insulation in a private house - tips and tricks

How to align the walls in a private house on your own?

How to insulate the facade wooden house? Instruction

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the inside and what are the disadvantages of internal insulation? Wall, floor and ceiling materials

Warming a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to close a log house or a facade from a bar to others finishing material, and in this case it is necessary to insulate the walls from the inside. Internal work include insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for warming the house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy.

Overview of types and characteristics of heaters, their scope

It is allowed to use a safer penofol, as well as universal material for warming of any buildings and constructions of mineral wool.

Benefits of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above. This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases, when really external insulation is impossible. This is due to a number of shortcomings, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the displacement of the dew point deep into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold there and rotting of the tree.

Among other shortcomings, the following are important:

• lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
• violation of the microclimate in the premises;
• reduction of usable area of ​​the house.

In addition, none of the insulation, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, it is necessary to choose the most suitable materials for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between the logs on the facade and ceiling. Relevant if the owner wants to keep the log house in its original form, without covering it with finishing materials.

Warm seam for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and caulk the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter. This is a very affordable price even for families with a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee high quality works.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is most often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced by safer components;
• affordable cost material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal and sound insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• durability the material does not rot, is not subject to fungal diseases;
• good indicators of vapor tightness, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

The negative properties include:

• the same vapor impermeability, due to which an unfavorable microclimate for human lungs can be created indoors;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to sheathe the walls with facial material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with a vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside. This will create additional natural ventilation insulation. Even if wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability of the vapor barrier.

A crate, timber or metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (it is also possible under it), on which facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of timber, and so on are already attached.

Styrofoam

Polymer material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components. Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo, extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, light weight, durability and moisture resistance.

Features of insulation with polystyrene foam

When choosing this material, such concepts as foamed and extruded polystyrene foam may occur. In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of polystyrene foam insulation are the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing of the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of bumps and roughness, and the material is not suitable for a log house from a bar at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries. Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fire.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material. It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The Underfloor heating system using IR film is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and fill floors

Expanded clay insulation and concrete pouring are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of floors will remain inside.