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Putty joints of plywood on the floor collection. How to seal the seams between plywood on the floor. Negative sides of plywood

Once you decide to seal the ceiling with plywood, you should know that plywood must be impregnated with waterproof agents, since with slight fluctuations in air humidity, plywood will expand and contract, so any seams will subsequently crack and it is quite difficult to stop this process, so any advice maybe bad...

So what to do if plywood sheets are already installed on the ceiling and now you need to cover up the seams?

We take acrylic sealant and carefully pour it into the shfy between sheets of plywood or plywood and the wall, without allowing the sealant to dry, level it with a spatula. After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to seal the seams with a sickle and paint with a special rubber paint that has the properties of stretching and narrowing. In this embodiment, the novelty of the ceiling may last longer....

In my opinion and application in practice also showed that the use of acrylic sealant is not reliable remedy. Firstly, the sealant requires further finishing, and secondly, after six months, when the sealant dries well, it will turn yellow and crack (checked repeatedly). I suggest ordinary silicone, namely silicone, not silicone sealant, but pure building silicone that smells strongly of vinegar. It is silicone that will fasten plywood sheets well and hermetically, and most importantly, fill the seams for a long time, after hardening providing elasticity to the seams, it will eliminate creaking and crackling sounds of plywood during deformation under the influence of external factors.

It’s better to sew such a ceiling directly onto plywood without any frames with sheets moisture resistant drywall 8 mm, so that the seams of the plywood sheets are tied with VGKL sheets. And then further finishing of such a ceiling for painting. Cracks will not be 100%. And if you also seal the drywall completely with fiberglass and putty with Shitrok, and sand it under a light bulb, then you can forget about cracks forever

Plywood is very often used as a base for other types of flooring and as a finish. Since it natural material, which requires the presence of technological gaps during installation, then the question necessarily arises: how to seal the seams between the plywood on the floor?

The answer to this depends on several factors:

• the thickness of the gap between the sheets;
• specific finishing;
• the room itself (humidity, heating, and so on).

Preliminary preparation

Before proceeding directly to the sealing of the seams, they must be prepared. You should start by grinding the joints, because this is the most important. If plywood is the finish or something thin and soft, such as linoleum, will lie on top, all surface defects will be clearly visible.

How to make a plywood floor in an apartment

It is most convenient to minimize the difference at the joints with the help of a grinder, it can also be used to go over other flaws in the material (knots, bumps). This work can be done manually, but it will take much more time.

Another important factor is the fastening of the edges. It must be very rigid, the joints should not “walk”, otherwise not a single putty will hold in them.

Read important material to the point: what putty to choose for plywood and why?

If plywood is laid on concrete base, then they fix it on glue (here the main thing is not to save on it), when mounting on wooden surface sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws. They are screwed in every 15-20 cm. The extreme rows should be placed as close as possible to the future seams, but so that the sheet does not crack.

Sealing process

Immediately before the putty, the seams must be cleaned of dust and dirt, it is most convenient to do this with a vacuum cleaner. Then the joints are degreased and coated with a primer. The soil should be moisture resistant, and if the room is damp, then preferably with antifungal additives. The putty itself is applied only after the primer has completely dried.

Basic Rules

One of the main selection criteria when sealing joints between plywood on the floor is the elasticity of the putty. No matter how tightly the edges of the plywood sheets are attached, they will still “play” a little, so the dense and hard putty will quickly crack and fly out of the seams.

You should choose not just a putty for woodwork, but a putty for wooden floors. Ordinary may simply not withstand the load.

From the entire range on the market, one of the best results was shown by acrylic putty. In the widest and deepest cracks, it is applied in several stages, each time waiting for the previous layer to dry completely.

Some advise for these purposes to use silicone, but it is not very suitable, as it is too soft and will bulge at the seams.

Elastic sealant, also not a panacea- usually it shrinks a lot, which is why clearly visible depressions form on the seams. This can be avoided by applying it in several layers, waiting for the previous layer to dry and shrink completely, but this is a rather lengthy process. Of the variety of sealants, acrylic is best suited for these purposes.

More expensive option - hot glue. Apply it a little with a margin (so that the seam sticks out). Excess after solidification is cut off with a wallpaper knife. The connection turns out to be quite elastic, but not soft, it also hardens very quickly and practically does not shrink.

The disadvantage of this material is the price and the need to buy a sufficiently powerful (at least 500 watts) hot glue gun.

Hot glue gun for grouting

If interested folk methods how to cover up the seams between the plywood on the floor, then there is also no consensus here. Some recommend overwriting the seams, mixed with sawdust PVA solution. Others for these purposes suggest using heated to 40 degrees mixture of epoxy resin and wood dust. Third - a mixture of drying oil and building chalk.

Whatever you decide to fill the gaps between the plywood on the floor , the main thing is to observe technological process. In this case, the result will be reliable and durable.

More information in this video.

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Elimination of damage to linoleum

The most common defect in the linoleum coating is considered to be a violation of its integrity. To correct this shortcoming, patches from the same material must be put on linoleum.

Work is carried out in the following sequence. First, you need to lay a piece of new linoleum on the defective area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor and try to combine the patterns. Having achieved full alignment, you need a sharply sharpened knife for cutting linoleum, using a metal ruler, to cut through both canvases at once - new and old. If the linoleum is too thick, it may not be possible to simultaneously make cuts on two overlapping panels at once. But in any case, a knife mark will remain on the bottom panel, along which the linoleum can subsequently be cut through.

When cutting a patch, you need to take into account that it is recommended to cut a patch bigger size than the damaged piece. The shape of the patch can be any: rectangular, triangular, round, square, diamond-shaped. If the linoleum flooring has a geometric pattern, it would be wiser to cut out a patch according to a fragment of the pattern so that the junction of the old and new panels is invisible.

The next step in the ongoing work will be the removal of the defective section of the linoleum coating. The base under it must be thoroughly cleaned of the old adhesive, dust and dirt, and then primed with mastic. The primer must dry. Then a thin layer of mastic is applied to the base and back of the patch, and a new piece of linoleum is installed in place and rolled with a rubber roller.

The linoleum patch laid in this way must be loaded through a sheet of plywood or fiberboard with a bag of sand or bricks. The load can be removed only after 2-3 days, when the mastic is completely dry.

Sometimes you have to patch a linoleum flooring that only had the edges glued on. In this case, after removing the defective piece of old linoleum under the edges of the remaining linoleum at the patch location, you need to grease the mastic and press the edges until the glue is completely dry.

The back side of the patch is also covered with mastic, but the adhesive is not applied in a continuous layer, as in the previous case, but only around the perimeter. The patch is smeared with mastic entirely only if it small size. The patch is installed in place and rolled on with a roller. If the patch is glued only around the edges, be sure to remove all the air from under it, otherwise this small piece of linoleum will soon peel off.

When cutting out a patch, you need to be extremely careful and accurate, then the repaired coating will look beautiful.

How to make a plywood floor. Installation on a concrete screed, logs. Seam sealing

As a result of inaccurate trimming, gaps may form between the edges of the patch and the edges of the undamaged area after the patch has been installed. They need to be sealed in the same way as in the original linoleum flooring.

When laying patches, use the mastic of the same composition as when laying the entire linoleum flooring, otherwise the incompatible components of the adhesives may react with each other, and all work will go down the drain.

Minor damage to linoleum does not need to be patched. You can eliminate these defects with the help of putty prepared at home. The formulation of putty may be different.

Putty can be prepared from 20 parts of rosin, 5 parts of alcohol, 4 parts of castor oil and a small amount of dry dye that matches the color of the linoleum coating. Rosin must be crushed and dissolved in alcohol. Castor oil and dye must be added to the resulting composition and mixed thoroughly to obtain a homogeneous mass. Carefully repair small damages in linoleum with the prepared composition using a spatula. Let the putty dry and sand it down.

Putty can also be prepared from 4 parts of thick turpentine, 1 part of crushed rosin and dry dye. The components of the putty must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained. Mastic needs to repair small damage in linoleum and carefully smooth them out. After the composition has completely dried, the repaired areas must be cleaned with sandpaper.

The section of the linoleum coating repaired in this way is rubbed with a protective mastic intended for the care of linoleum, or a brilliant emulsion.

General concepts
Practical comparison
Varieties
Negative sides plywood
Preparing for installation
Substrate moisture
Laying plywood on a concrete base
Screed
Laying plywood on logs

Plywood is universal material, it is perfect for making a plywood floor in an apartment with your own hands. The main condition is the observance of the basic rules and nuances, attentiveness and scrupulous approach.

Due to the various areas of use of this material, you can find many varieties of it on the market.

Plywood has a number of advantages:

• high strength;
• low cost;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of installation.

All these factors make the material great solution for use in various fields.

General concepts

It is worth figuring out how leveling the floor with plywood differs from the material closest in price - chipboard.

Practical comparison

Chipboard is cheaper, but has harmful inclusions in the form of volatile carcinogens.

It is worth conducting several tests to assess the practicality of materials:

1. The first test will be for flexibility and retention former form. We put a centimeter sheet of plywood on two beams and stand on it. The material will sag for a while, and after we get off it, it will take its previous shape. Chipboard in such a situation will simply crack.

1. The next test will be moisture resistance. Let's put two materials in water and wait for the changes. Chipboard will very quickly begin to thicken and sag, losing its shape and becoming completely unusable.

1. The last test will be for fragility.

With the help of a hammer, we will apply several blows to the materials. The chipboard will crumble, and the plywood will absorb the impact, causing minor dents.

All these positive distinctive features plywood is acquired by the material due to a special manufacturing technology. Plywood is wood board whose layers are glued together. Chipboard is pressed from chips.

All tests passed show that plywood is better than chipboard anyway.

Varieties

In order to lay a plywood floor in an apartment, you can use one of the following types of material with the following marking:

• FC- plywood with an adhesive in the form of carbamide resin. It is distinguished by high moisture-repellent characteristics, high strength, environmental friendliness, and can be used to create a fine floor covering.
• NS- an unpolished type of plywood in which the layers are glued together using casein glue. Such plywood is the cheapest, but additional sanding may be required after installation.
• Ш1– plywood with one-sided grinding. It also contains casein glue. It is best to use such plywood for the subfloor, since it has only one side sanded.
• SH2– plywood with double-sided sanding. The layers are glued together with the same casein glue. If such plywood is used in rooms with a normal climate, it can replace FK plywood.

Negative sides of plywood

Plywood, like all wood products, is afraid of moisture.

• continuous humidity up to 68%;
• periodic humidity, up to 12 hours - no more than 78%;
• during laying - no more than 60%.

Before leveling the floor with plywood in the kitchen, bathroom or tub, make sure that the temperature and humidity in them do not exceed the recommended values.

How can I seal the seams between the plywood on the floor?

If the figures are too high, try to use only FC brand plywood.

Preparing for installation

Before attaching plywood to the floor, it is necessary that the material acclimatize.

The acclimatization period is affected by the temperature difference between the old and new environment material stay.

Acclimatization times will be as follows:

• almost the same temperature - day;
• a difference of 8 degrees - 3 days;
• more than 8 degrees -7 days.

Substrate moisture

After the material has acclimatized, you need to check the level of dampness of the place where the floor will be laid. If the humidity is high, then you will need to lay an additional layer in the form of waterproofing.

In order to measure the humidity level, you need to take one square meter polyethylene and spread out on the floor, fixing something heavy in the corners. Leave with the raised central part for a while.

Based on the time after which the drops appeared, one can judge the humidity in the room:

• day - a room with such humidity at the moment cannot be used for laying plywood;
• 3 days - a layer of waterproofing should be laid;

If the floor is concrete, then we lay the film, and on top - a reinforcing mesh and pour the screed. If the floor is made of wood, then all rotten boards must be removed from it. Plywood is laid brand FK.

• 5 days - installation of plywood can be carried out without restrictions.

Laying plywood on a concrete base

Plywood flooring can be laid on concrete screed or on the lags. In the first case, it is important that the base is very even, and the finishing layer is flexible. See also: "How to fix plywood to concrete floor- styling options.

Screed

Let's describe the sequence of mounting plywood in an apartment directly onto a concrete screed:

1. First you need to carry out a thorough cleaning, there should be no debris left.
2. The surface should be opened with bituminous varnish with the addition of kerosene. If there is no such mixture, you can take parquet mastic and add solvent there.

A very important precaution would be to turn off the electricity in the shield for the period of complete ventilation of the room. This will prevent an accidental spark that could ignite combustible fumes.

1. Plywood sheets should be cut into strips or squares 1250x1250 mm.
2. Laying is carried out with a 50 percent shift according to the principle of brickwork.
3. We lay out the sheets on the floor, adjust their size, number them, do not forget about the gap between the plywood on the floor.
4. If linoleum will act as a finishing coating, then before sealing the seams between the plywood on the floor, it can be glued directly to the concrete floor using bustilat. Get a floating floor without mounting slots. If the question arose about how to seal the seams in plywood on the floor, then you can use acrylic non-shrink putty for wooden floors.
5. If an oak coating is to be laid, then plywood must be laid with the addition of mounting slots:

First you need to attach the sheet to the concrete and drill four holes in the corners and one in the center, lightly touching the concrete. It is better to take a steel carbide drill, as a regular one will quickly become dull due to contact with concrete.

Next, remove the sheets and make full-sized holes for the dowels. We open the lower part of the sheet with glue and put it in place, pressing it with self-tapping screws. If you don’t know how to seal plywood joints on the floor in this case, then the answer is simple - they can be left as is.

Laying plywood on logs

If parquet, laminate or other similar coatings will act as a finishing floor covering, then you will first need to assemble the frame from the log.

You will need to follow these steps:

1. It is necessary to prepare boards with a thickness of 100 mm or a square beam of the same section.
2. We leave them for one week in the room where they will fit. Those that have deformed during this time are removed.
3. You will need plywood 12-22 mm thick.
4. The base must be prepared in the same way as in the case of laying plywood without a log frame.
5. Installation of bars is carried out with an interval of 300-600 mm.
6. The space between the lags must be filled with insulation.
7. When laying sheets, small gaps should be left between them, and the gap between the wall and plywood should be 25 mm. If you are thinking about how to cover up the seams between the plywood on the floor, then in this case they should also be left as is.
8. Plywood on the bars can be planted on liquid nails, and additionally fixed on top with ordinary nails.

If a log frame is used as a base, then adjusting bolts can be purchased to simplify installation.

conclusions

Plywood is an excellent material with an ideal price / quality ratio. At a low price, it can be used to make either a finished floor or a base for flooring. In any case, as a result, an excellent floor will come out, which will have all the same practicality and beauty. Its great advantage is that all work can be carried out without involving specialists.

What is the right way to seal the joints of plywood on the floor (flooring under linoleum)?

Puttying plywood floor

Before choosing how to putty the floor, determine the surface of the existing coating. Putty happens: basic - used by the first layer to even out the main irregularities; finishing - which is finally laid in a thin even layer; universal - which is suitable instead of the base one, and instead of the finish one.

How to putty floors

Plywood floor putty

Plywood, like most building materials, designed to make the decoration of the premises for various purposes. Its strength exceeds the tree species from which it was made. Typically, plywood is mounted on guides that are leveled. After fixing the plywood, it can be puttied. It must be treated with a primer on the outside and inside.

When the plywood is primed, you need to wait about an hour until it dries. Each primer or antiseptic manufacturer specifies the area of ​​use of the antiseptic or primer, specifies the drying time and other characteristics of use. These are such as humidity and air temperature and other materials for which this product is made. When the primer is applied and dry, apply putty.

Can be used ordinary putty, which is sold dry, and then kneaded by adding water to the state of sour cream. But the layer of application of such putty is from 2 mm. Therefore, choosing how to putty the floor, choose latex or oil putty. If you choose oil, then it will almost not be necessary to go through sandpaper after drying, wiping out irregularities.

Since when puttying plywood, and any other surface, oil putty stretches well, you can choose it. It absorbs less paint than dry paint.

When puttying plywood, latex putty forms a layer of 1 mm. This putty can stretch well and cover all the bumps. She is usually puttied once. If necessary, you can apply a second layer. It's hard to rub with sandpaper. Because the mesh for grouting or sandpaper quickly exhausts its resource.

Therefore, thinking about how to putty the cracks in the floor, we answer, do it carefully so that you practically do not have to use sandpaper. And when the putty already applied to the plywood dries, start painting.

For the floor, polyester putty is most often used. Its feature is strength, good adhesion, elasticity. This putty does not shrink, but when working with it, you do not need to take a large layer. The number of thin layers should not exceed two.

Polyurethane putty is also popular. She's easy to use. It is resistant to gasoline, acids.

A wooden house is the most environmentally friendly and modern building for housing. It is pleasant and cozy to be in it, however, there are a number of problems that the owners of this building face, for example, gaps in the wooden flooring.

Cracks can occur due to the drying of the tree. The tree dries for 10 years. Deformations of wood in off-season time are possible. In winter, wood swells, and in summer it dries and decreases in size. Visually, this cannot be detected, however, in the microcosm, under a microscope, you can see how the fibers in a tree change over time.

More possible reasons:

1. Incorrect calculations of builders or incorrect installation of floorboards.
2. Incorrectly prepared wood for operation - low-quality paints and varnishes.
3. Bad ventilation.
4. Insufficient floor fit.
5. The appearance of mice and termites.

All cracks, depending on the size and location, are eliminated, you just need to choose the right solution. There are many methods for fixing cracks in wood floors. Cracks up to 15 cm are filled with sealant. In this case, the sealant can be used in 2 types, it is a silicone or acrylic sealant for wood. Special sealants for wood differ in color, which allows you to eliminate joints and gaps as imperceptibly as possible.

Sealants have a number of advantages: resistance to moisture, favorable consumption in the process of sealing the gap and long service life after removing defects in the floor.

You can fill the gap with wood putty. The choice can fall on acrylic-based, solvent-based, oil-based or polymeric, water-based. You can putty not only cracks and holes, but also irregularities on plywood or wood, as well as cracks. You can seal the gap with foam. However, it is necessary to eliminate cracks very carefully, without spraying foam. Excess foam can be removed only after it hardens.

Cracks are sealed with polyester paste. There can be both one and two-component options. Suitable for sealing gaps and joints up to 5 cm own cooking putties are also relevant.

High-quality sealing of cracks in a wooden floor

Regardless of the size of the gap between the boards in the floor or in the parquet, before removing it, it is necessary to do a dry and wet cleaning, remove dust and clean the place of the gap, let it dry.

Termination options:

1. If the gap in the wooden floor is up to 1 cm in size, then it can be sealed with a tourniquet, grout or filled with sealant.
2. If from 1 cm to 3 cm, then a special putty is well suited.
3. If the gaps are very big size, then it fits well. polyurethane foam, wedges or slats.

The field of operations performed, it is better to cover the floor with sheets of plywood, the joints of which are also processed and leveled with putty. Small gaps or joints can be covered with putty made from glue and sawdust.

Sawdust is taken in a fine fraction, poured with boiling water and mixed until a homogeneous mass.

After the solution with sawdust has cooled down, PVA glue is added and applied with a spatula in the localization of the gap cleared of dirt and dust. After the surface of the sealed gap has been leveled to the floor level, it must be left for a couple of days so that the mixture can take and dry. After everything has dried out, the irregularities must be treated with an abrasive, and fire protection should be applied, and only then the selected paints and varnishes.

You need to know: how to close a hole from mice

How in countryside, and in urban areas there are mice. If there are any gaps in the houses, then mice can easily enter the living quarters, they will not only harm human health, as they are carriers of leptosperosis, toxocariasis, streptobacillus and many others, which can be fatal, but also harm room, its decoration, can penetrate food.

The most proven options for sealing holes in the wall from mice are:

• glass wool embedment;
• Eliminate the defect with cement;
• Mounting foam also helps well, mice do not gnaw it, and tightly seal the hole.

Expert advice boils down to broken glass, which are placed in the holes of mice.

How and how to seal the seams between plywood on the floor

On plywood flooring, you can often find seams and joints that need to be repaired. You need to know that the most important thing in choosing a putty is elasticity, since plywood consists of wood veneer, and the tree is subject to seasonal deformations. Over time, the plywood dries out, and the joints become more visible. It is also worth choosing a putty according to the color of the wood, as well as a special one, that is, for wooden material.

For sealing seams, are used:

• acrylic putty;
• Elastic sealant;
• hot glue;
• Sawdust with PVA and gypsum;
• Epoxy adhesive.

It is worth considering that chipboard, plywood should be well fixed so that they do not walk and do not vibrate, then the selected putty (putty for wooden floors) will not crack and will hold tightly, closing the gap.

These works are also being done for plywood, on which linoleum will subsequently be laid.

It should also be covered with putty or better silicone sealant, dents in plywood and all joints, cracks. Plywood needs to be coated with an antiseptic. Before laying linoleum, it is necessary to pay attention to the evenness of the plywood and its cleanliness.

Types of putties for the floor from the boards

To date, there is a fairly wide selection of putties on wood. Before choosing a putty, you need to decide on the price, scope, type and brand.

Putties are divided into types:

1. Polymer putty, which is made on water based therefore does not release chemicals into the atmosphere. It dries quickly enough, holds well and does not crack.
2. Oil putty based on water, chalk and oils. It is one of the most reliable, however, after processing the gap, it takes a lot of time for it to dry completely.
3. Acrylic putty is environmentally friendly and non-flammable, which is very important for wood.
4. Solvent-based putty is ideal for parquet flooring, but is not the most environmentally friendly option.
5. The putty is elastic, which is ideal for “floating” cracks and joints. It keeps its shape perfectly, has good adhesion to the surface.
6. Pigmented wood putty, that is different colors(white-birch, teak-mahogany, wenge-dark oak, beech-oak). It must be taken into account that often the color does not match the one declared on the package, you should require a demonstration of the goods or a stand with these putties.
7. Putty for wooden floors, which is used to smooth out irregularities, various defects and cracks.

The main brands of putty manufacturers are Dulux, Parade, Semin, Varathane, Axton, Neomid, Forwood, Rainbow, Tytan, Master's Choice. We must not forget that putties differ in the main types: finishing, leveling, filling, universal, sealing. Putty is applied with a spatula of the selected size, by pressing it into the depth of the gap. After the putty dries, it is necessary to level the surface using abrasive products for wood.

How to close cracks in a wooden floor (video)

When cracks appear, it does not matter, any gap can be repaired with your own hands, and the wooden floor is easy to install and repair.

Puttying the floor under linoleum is a necessary and important procedure. Without it, the finish coat will last less and quickly lose its appearance during operation. To do the job right, you need to follow certain order actions, as well as being able to choose the right material.

Features of working with linoleum

This type of finishing coating is demanding on the quality of the rough base. The floor should be flat, without humps, depressions, cracks, shells. If you lay linoleum on an unprepared base, it will soon begin to wear out, tear in places of obvious bulges - its service life will noticeably decrease. To avoid this, puttying the floor is used, and then a special layer is laid under the finish coating.

Filling irregularities is possible only on a fairly decent quality base, with a small difference in level and a small number of errors. If bumps and pits are found at every step, you will first have to fill in a self-leveling concrete screed and only after that proceed with laying linoleum.

Varieties of putties

You need to select the material based on the type of rough base. This is usually concrete, or wood, or concrete leveled with plywood sheets. The joints between them will also have to be puttied. In addition to specific compositions designed for one type of floor, there are also universal ones that can work both on wood and on concrete.

Wood putties

The compositions are used not only for straightening the floors before laying linoleum, but also for restoring the old wooden surface. They are also used to improve appearance floor board. Wood putty is able to perfectly repair cracks, seams, loose knots and other errors on a wooden surface.

Features of the composition for work inside residential premises:

1. Elasticity. This parameter is necessary because the tree is able to expand and contract depending on the ambient temperature. If the putty is not elastic, then soon it will simply fall off.
2. Homogeneity (smallest fraction). Coarse-grained compositions cannot be used on wood. When grinding, scratches may appear, which will also have to be puttied.
3. High adhesion. The composition must perfectly adhere to the tree, otherwise the putty will quickly begin to peel off and fall out.
4. Ecological purity. This parameter is important, because the presence of harmful volatile substances in the composition can harm human health when dried.
5. High antiseptic properties. For wooden floors covered with linoleum on top, it is very important that mold does not settle on them and the rotting process does not begin in case of inadvertent seepage of water through the finish coating.
6. Fire safety. Important, but not required.

Oil based formulations

Oil putties include drying oil, fillers, water, coloring pigments, plasticizers and other components. Such compositions are considered ideal for wood, as they have natural ingredients. The advantages of oil putties include:

• high plasticity;
• high adhesion to wooden surfaces;
• moderate consumption (no more than 1 kg/m2);
• ease of use;
• fairly fast drying;
• environmental safety;
• relative cheapness.

Unlike most other putty mixtures, leveling oil formulations go on sale ready-made. They do not need pre-mixing before applying to the surface to be treated.

Despite a lot of advantages, the material is also characterized by quite serious drawbacks. Putty can quickly “fall out” of cracks and potholes if the floor is under heavy load. Oil-based formulations are sensitive to excess moisture and do not adhere well to any paint other than oil. Therefore, before working with plywood or wooden floors you will have to clean them from any finish to the tree itself.

Quick Dry Compounds

Nitro putties are made on the basis of wood dust (flour), have a wide variety of colors, and dry very quickly. Among the advantages:

• excellent adhesion to wooden substrates;
• perfect repair of defects;
• the ability to process a wooden surface (clean, polish);
• dry within a maximum of 10 minutes;
• as a solvent, ordinary acetone or nitro solvent is suitable.

Polymer compositions

They are made on the basis of gypsum or latex. Gypsum putty for plywood under linoleum, it is quite suitable for sealing joints between sheets, as well as for bringing wooden floors to perfect condition, on which a similar finish will then be laid.

Latex putties are an excellent, high-quality option. You just need to know how to work with them. After setting, it is almost impossible to do anything with the surface. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately close cracks and potholes perfectly evenly, without leaving errors.

The advantages of latex over plaster are obvious:

• does not crumble;
• does not crack, because it is elastic;
• sealing of millimeter cracks is possible.

Among the shortcomings, one can note the price - it is hardly worth using latex putty under linoleum (although if the result is important, it will be the best) - and the inability to work at low temperatures.

Adhesives and oil-adhesives

Usually they are cooked on their own. It turns out economically and quite qualitatively. The recipe for putty on wood (it is also suitable for sealing plywood joints):

• 280 g of linseed oil;
• 60 g of turpentine oil, or turpentine;
• 30 g perlite in powder form;
• 20 g casein;
• 20 g of edible gelatin;
• 12 g of borax;
• 18 g ammonia (18% solution);
• about 300 g of water.

Combine turpentine and linseed oil add perlite powder. Mix everything, pour in water, add the rest of the ingredients and put in a water bath, heat to about + 90 ° C. This will help to achieve the most uniform consistency and get a thick paste. Take it off the fire and let it cool. You can work with it for an hour, then its properties will deteriorate.

The recipe for pure adhesive putty is simpler:

1. All you need is chalk and PVA glue.
2. Take the chalk and slowly start pouring glue into it. Break up lumps that form immediately.
3. Add glue until the mass looks like thick sour cream or paste.
4. In the finished mass, add wood flour or the smallest sawdust. Leave them to swell, then get to work.

The quality of such putty is quite high, the price is more than affordable. Of the minuses - a long drying time, at least a day, in addition, the thickness of the layer plays an important role.

In the last recipe, you can replace the PVA glue with a water-soluble inexpensive varnish. Leave the composition overnight so that the sawdust or wood flour swells. The resulting putty dries faster, and therefore more attractive to work with.

Putties for concrete

There are 7 types of compositions: based on cement or gypsum, lime, oil, varnish, adhesive, acrylic. Unlike wood, it is easier to work with concrete, the main thing is not to forget to impregnate it with a primer after thorough cleaning deep penetration with the addition of sand. This will improve the adhesion of the putty to the base and prevent it from flying out during the application of mechanical loads.

Gypsum has clear advantages - it does not shrink and is inexpensive. Cement gives decent shrinkage, but it can be used in rooms of any humidity, unlike gypsum, which does not like water. Acrylic putty does not shrink, is moisture resistant, but costs more than gypsum.

The most attractive is epoxy putty for concrete. It practically does not exfoliate from the base, is waterproof, strengthens the edges of potholes, fills even small cracks well.

Preparing plywood for plastering

If with preparation concrete surface everything is clear: clean, embroider all cracks and pits, then remove dust, prime, dry and you can start puttying, then with a wooden floor, and even more so with plywood, everything is much more complicated.

The first thing to do is to soak such a floor with drying oil. It must be heated to +50 - 60 ° C and applied with a brush (roller). Dry the treated surface forcibly with a building hair dryer at +200°C. You need to do the processing repeatedly, each time drying the layer well. After 3 or 4 impregnations, drip water onto the surface of the plywood. If it is collected in drops, the treatment can be completed, but if it is absorbed, it needs to be oiled several more times. Do not forget about the edges, otherwise, when moisture penetrates, they will ruffle and then delaminate.

A similar water-repellent effect can be obtained by impregnating plywood with PVA glue.

Before laying linoleum, be sure to putty all the bumps. It doesn't matter if your floor is wood or concrete. The main thing is to make it almost perfectly even, then lay the substrate and lay linoleum on top.

Plywood, like many other materials, can be puttied. However, it is important to choose the right putty mixture. Putty for plywood must have special qualities, the most important of which is water-repellent properties. This article will discuss the features of plywood processing and the choice of a suitable composition for these purposes.

Plywood properties

Classification of plywood implies division into grades, mechanical characteristics, elasticity and resistance to moisture. A letter marking of the material has been developed, which necessarily indicates the type of glue used to impregnate and fix the veneer in the manufacture of the product.

Plywood characteristics:

1. IN Russian Federation The standards provide for the production of plywood of the following sizes (in millimeters): 1525x1525, 1220x2440, 2440x1220, 1250x2500, 2500x1250, 1500x3000, 3000x1500, 1525x3050 and 3050x1525. The thickness of plywood sheets can vary between 3 and 30 millimeters.
2. For the production of plywood, birch wood is used or conifers trees (pine, spruce, larch). The veneer is glued together perpendicular to the location of the wood fibers.
3. Each type of product is assigned a specific marking: FSF, FBA, FSF-TV, FB, FK, BS and BV.
4. The following varieties are suitable for puttying purposes: FSF, FSF-TV, FK, FB and BS. The fact is that these products are characterized by increased moisture resistance, which is an indispensable condition for the selection of material suitable for puttying.
5. Plywood is also classified according to the degree of processing. Laminated and non-laminated grades are available. Products polished on one side are marked as Ш1. Double-sided grinding is reflected in the marking Ш2. If the slab has not been polished at all, it is marked as NSh. Of all the listed varieties, non-laminated and non-sanded plywood is most suitable for puttying.

Purposes of puttying

Plywood structures are often used for leveling different types surfaces during repair work. Installation of plywood sheets is carried out on the floor, walls and ceiling. However, without additional procedures, the seams between butted sheets do not look very attractive, and the surface of the material itself is not even enough to lay linoleum on top or glue wallpaper. It is puttying that allows you to create the perfect flat surface and hide interpanel defects.

It would seem that puttying is an obvious way out. However, many masters are wondering: is it possible to putty plywood, because we are talking about wood? The fact is that such doubts have a basis, since moisture provokes decay of wood, the development of mold and fungus on it, which gradually leads to the destruction of the material.

There is a way out if not the first putty that comes across is used for processing, but a special one - made taking into account the characteristics of the wood. With the help of such compounds, you can eliminate all the problems inherent in plywood sheets, and at the same time not damage the material. The putty contains moisture-protective agents, which makes it possible to produce mixtures even on a water basis. In addition, thanks to the addition of an antiseptic, the putty is also able to resist the development of fungus and mold.

Varieties of mixtures

For right choice putty composition matters whole line factors. The requirements for surfaces before wallpapering are different from those before painting, as last case the composition should have a more delicate effect on the surface. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the humidity in the room and temperature changes (for example, cement putty does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature).

Putty compositions are sold in one of two states:

• powdered;
• ready-made (viscous solution).

Most often, dry putties are used to process plywood. Such compositions are more convenient to transport, and their consistency can be adjusted during mixing to the desired degree of viscosity. Dry mixes are packaged in bags of different capacities.

Completely ready-to-use solutions are also produced. Such mixtures are based on various dispersions, as well as polymers in the form of latex or silicone. Polymeric materials have a number of significant advantages, which will be discussed in more detail below. The main advantage finished formulations is precisely their complete readiness, since there is no need to spend time and labor on preparing the mixture. Flaw ready solutions- Significantly higher cost compared to powders.

Answering the question of how to putty plywood, it should be said that the main differences between different putties are in the base material.

For puttying plywood, mixtures based on the following components can be used:

• gypsum;
• polymers;
• cement;
• glue.

Below we will tell you a little more about the different types of putties:

1. Gypsum mixtures are characterized by the simplicity of their composition and the absence of shrinkage. However, putties of this type are not sufficiently elastic, as a result of which there is a risk of cracks at the seams due to insufficiently secure fastening of plywood sheets. The disadvantages of gypsum putties can also be attributed to the rather high cost and frequent marriage.
2. Cement mixes are characterized by rather high moisture resistance. A significant disadvantage of cement is the tendency to shrink and lack of elasticity. Especially clearly listed negative qualities are manifested in the heat and sudden temperature changes.
3. Polymer-based putty mixtures are most suitable for working with wood. Polymer compositions are highly moisture resistant, and therefore plywood treated with such putties can be used even in wet rooms. Polymers do not shrink, have the highest elasticity, resistance to vibrations and mechanical stress. All polymer putties are sold only in finished form (packed in containers weighing from 3 to 20 kilograms). There are two kinds polymer compositions: based on acrylic (silicone) and latex. Putties of this group are also divided according to the scope of application: for interior decoration and for processing facades. The only significant disadvantage of using polymeric compositions is high costs for their purchase.
4. Adhesive putty - the result of production at home with your own hands. Such a composition is prepared by mixing PVA glue with crushed wood dust in a certain proportion. Adhesives have high moisture resistance and elasticity. advantage self-manufacturing is the possibility of bringing the solution to the desired consistency. In addition, the cost of such a composition is significantly lower compared to factory-made putty.

Impregnation with drying oil or PVA

Before laying linoleum on plywood, it is recommended to improve the properties of the base in advance. Puttying plywood under linoleum is carried out by impregnating the material with drying oil or PVA. The impregnation process requires a certain time (usually several days), since the technology provides for the complete drying of all layers impregnated sequentially one after another. In addition, drying is not forced in any way and occurs naturally.

Note! PVA is applied to plywood without forced acceleration.

When the plywood is impregnated with PVA and dried, it is the turn of the antiseptic, the treatment of which helps prevent the development of fungus and mold. Next, the material is covered with acrylic varnish.

Another option for strengthening plywood before puttying and further laying linoleum is to impregnate the veneer with heated drying oil. With the help of a water bath, drying oil is heated to 50-60 degrees Celsius (in no case should the temperature be exceeded). Heated drying oil is applied to the surface of the material with a roller or brush. Next, the plywood dries at 200 degrees above zero or under the action of a building hair dryer. The procedure is repeated again and again - as long as the plywood retains the ability to absorb drying oil. Impregnation can be stopped as soon as large drops of drying oil begin to linger on the plywood.

Note! Special attention when impregnating, it should be given to the end sections of the sheets, since it is these places that are most vulnerable to external influences.

Padding

When plywood is laid out on the floor, it must be primed. Unlike the impregnations discussed above, which are aimed at protecting against decay, the primer is seen as a way to improve the quality of puttying. The fact is that priming allows you to increase the adhesive qualities of the surface (adhesion - the ability to adhere to dissimilar materials). In addition, the primer forms a protective barrier against too deep penetration. paint and varnish compositions into a wood structure.

Note! Puttying is allowed only after the primer has completely dried.

As in the case of putties, specialized primers are used for priming, designed specifically for wood processing. A feature of such compositions is the presence of special components in them, including antiseptics.

So, before puttingty plywood, it needs to be primed. Previously, the material is cleaned of dust, dirt, oil stains and any other contaminants. Primer can only be applied to clean natural veneer.

Next, a primer is applied to the plywood, for which you can use a brush or roller. After that, you need to let the surface dry. Drying time depends on humidity and room temperature. On average, drying will take from 3 to 6 hours.

Puttying

Applying putty on plywood is carried out according to the same principle as on concrete or brick. As tools you will need a spatula, a rule and a bean. Particular attention should be paid to the joints (Fugenfüller is used for this). The normal thickness of the putty layer is 2-3 millimeters.

If small grains remain on the coating after puttying, they should be removed using sandpaper once the surface is dry. However, such a development of events can be prevented if the solution is sieved in advance through a fine sieve or nylon. As soon as the surface is completely dry, you can proceed with further finishing work.

Putty work with plywood is not much different from the processing of other materials. However, it must be remembered that any wood is vulnerable to moisture, and therefore needs to be protective measures which we discussed in our article.