home > Interior Design > Why hippeastrum does not bloom at home. Hippeastrum flowering: why hippeastrum does not bloom, what to do? Rest period and care after flowering. Large pot size

Why hippeastrum does not bloom at home. Hippeastrum flowering: why hippeastrum does not bloom, what to do? Rest period and care after flowering. Large pot size

One of the most common problems when growing hippeastrum is the lack of flowering. In most cases, the cause is not proper care and creating uncomfortable conditions for full development. In our article we will talk about what requirements must be met in order for the plant to delight you with its beautiful flowering.

Features of the flowering period

To start a little general information. Hippeastrum belongs to the genus Amaryllis bulbous plants, the birthplace of culture is the southern part of the American continent. In total there are about 80 different varieties plants, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, about 600 hybrids of this royal flower were bred.

Flowering is long - about two months. At the end of the dormant period, the plant throws out a long peduncle, the height of which, depending on the variety, varies from 30 to 85 cm, each has 2–4 tubular or funnel-shaped flowers with a diameter of 25–30 cm. The color can be dark red or orange, as well as pink, scarlet or milky white.

Hippeastrum reproduces quite easily - by "kids", as well as by seeds or scales of bulbs. And after pollination different colors you can get a unique flower of a new shade.

So that the hippeastrum will please you with its decorative flowers, it needs a sufficient amount of light and the obligatory creation of a dormant phase, during which the plant is gaining strength to prepare a new flowering.

Under favorable conditions, flowering occurs twice a year, moreover, experienced flower growers can even achieve the release of a peduncle by a certain date.

Why does not bloom and what to do?

So, let us dwell in more detail on the factors that lead to the fact that the hippeastrum produces only leaves and does not bloom in room conditions.

No transfers

Hippeastrum should be planted in fairly small containers, so the bulb very quickly sucks out of it all the nutrients and mineral elements necessary to maintain the normal life of the plant, literally braiding the entire earthen lump with its thin roots. If the root system has become crowded, then the only solution a similar problem will be an early dive into a container of a larger diameter - it is desirable that the new pot be 3-4 cm wider than the previous one, all voids formed as a result should be filled with a new nutrient substrate.

Lack of fertilizer

For the release of a healthy and strong peduncle, hippeastrum requires a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potash fertilizers, so every two weeks it needs to be fed - for this, they take turns making ground wood ash and superphosphate. You should not use preparations with a high nitrogen content, since in this case the growth of green mass is stimulated, and the plant no longer has the strength to form a peduncle, in addition, an excess amount of nitrogen preparations makes the plant vulnerable to fungal infections.

When optimizing the feeding regimen, it is possible to wait for flowering only for the next season, since the culture needs time to fully enrich itself with useful substances and lay strong flower stalks for the next period.

Wrong conditions of detention

For the formation of a flower, hippeastrum requires comfortable conditions a habitat. You will not see a flower if the temperature regime in the room is not observed, while the phases of active vegetation and the dormant period should be clearly distinguished. Yes, in summer time the plant will not enter the flowering stage at temperatures below +20 degrees and excessively high humidity air (more than 70%). Hippeastrum does not need foliar sprays, even on very hot and dry days they should be avoided.

The most comfortable temperature for throwing out flower stalks is considered to be + 23–28 degrees at a humidity level of about 55–65%.

Large pot size

Too deep a container in which the hippeastrum is grown can also be the reason for the lack of flowering. The fact is that in such a situation, the plant directs all its forces to the increased growth of the main and daughter bulbs, as well as roots and green mass, it simply does not have enough nutrients to lay the peduncle. In this case, you will either have to be patient and wait until the bulb reaches right size, or transplant the culture into a container of the appropriate volume - it is desirable that the distance between the roots and the walls of the container is about 25–30 cm.

Bulb too deep

Do not bury the bulb too much - it should be buried in the ground by half, and even better - by a quarter. It may seem to novice growers that this is rather inconvenient and the bulb will fall out in this case, however, the plant develops and deepens its root system, So mature plant quite firmly held in the substrate, while its upper part does not rot in the ground and is less susceptible to attacks by insect pests.

To properly plant the bulb, use a small life hack - visually divide it into 4 parts and then deepen it by 1/4 or 2/4, depending on the initial dimensions of the seedling.

No dormant period

The main condition for the flowering of hippeastrum is a full-fledged dormant period preceding the active vegetation phase, otherwise the culture will not be able to recover after the last flowering and in a year simply will not have the strength to enter the same phase. Before it begins to bloom, the culture must direct all its efforts to the formation of the peduncle and the restoration of nutritional deficiencies.

At the end of flowering, the usual conditions for caring for the plant should not be changed: watering and applying the necessary fertilizers are carried out according to the previous scheme for another month, after which all manipulations are completely stopped and the seed pods are removed. The peduncle and leaves themselves are removed only after they themselves begin to die off - visually this is noticeable by a change in density and shade. It happens that the leaves remain elastic - in this case there is no need to remove them, they do not interfere in the dormant phase. It is extremely important to provide high humidity and partial shade- this is necessary so that your hippeastrum does not go into increased growth.

During this period, the flower should be watered once a month, and if the room has high humidity, then irrigation can be completely excluded.

Diseases and pests

Often the reason for the lack of flowering is the detrimental effect of insect pests or disease.

One of the most dangerous infections for hippeastrum is considered stagonosporosis, which is popularly known as "red onion burn". The development of such a pathology can be guessed by the appearance on the surface of the bulb of small dots and stains of brown-red color. If urgent measures are not taken, then the disease will spread to the ground part, which will inevitably lead to the death of the flower.

When the very first signs appear, you need to take a sharp sterilized knife or scalpel, pull the bush out of the pot and carefully cut off all the affected areas, affecting 4–6 mm of healthy tissue next to the affected one. After that, all sections must be treated with a powdery mixture of "Fundazol" and crushed coal, taken in a ratio of 1 to 1. Then the roots are cleaned from the ground and transplanted into a new container with a new substrate. By the way, the latter is recommended to be additionally treated with a hot solution of potassium permanganate. The bulb is buried quite a bit - it will be easier to control its condition. When the risk of re-infection has passed, you can lightly add soil to the container and continue caring for the crop as usual.

Late blight and anthracosis plants develop when hippeastrum is grown in open ground, the causative agent of infection are fungal spores, which, under conditions high level moisture quickly spreads to healthy parts of the flower; moreover, if the plant has any mechanical damage or it lacks potassium, the spores spread much faster.

The symptoms of the disease are dark spots on leaf blades and bulbs, as well as loss of turgor. As in the previous case, all damaged areas should be cut off, diseased leaves removed, then all parts of the plant should be “powdered” with a mixture of coal and “Fundazol”, and the ground should be treated with a solution of 1% Bordeaux mixture.

How to avoid mistakes in care?

In order to prevent all the difficulties associated with the lack of flowering hippeastrum, must adhere next steps prevention:

transplant the plant annually into slightly larger pots so that new containers exceed the previous ones by 3-4 cm;
disinfect the new substrate- for this, the earth is calcined, subjected to preliminary freezing or treated with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate;
observe the rules of the plant neighborhood- hippeastrum can not be planted in open ground next to other bulbous plants;
maintain correct irrigation regime;
take care of a plant- apply all necessary fertilizers in a timely manner;
to provide the necessary culture rest phase in winter time;
Right deepen the bulb into the substrate
provide hippeastrum growing in open garden plots,protection during rain and strong winds.

He, like many plants, has a period of rest and a period of growth (vegetation), as well as a period when he blooms. When it grows, then you need to apply fertilizer, i.e. feed the bulb so that it accumulates nutrients and strength for future flowering. During this time, the bulb increases in size. Somewhere from the end of August, you need to stop watering and fertilizing, after which he must dry the leaves. The bulb goes into dormancy. During dormancy, store the bulb in a dark and cool place.

Important! Never cut the leaves yourself, laying the onion to “sleep”, they contain nutrients, and when the hippeastrum dries the leaves, the bulb draws all the useful substances from the leaves, and if you cut them off, then deprive it of these useful substances and forces.

Then it happens that the bulb wakes up by itself, many wake it up by force, and some, on the contrary, try to extend the dormant period in order to force it to bloom by a certain date. IN last case, it is better to generally shift the term of care for the rest period by more late deadline. Further, when planting a bulb after a dormant period, pick up a pot close enough for it, 1.5–2 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb, do not bury the entire bulb in the ground, leave about 2/3 above the ground. Move to a warm place. As soon as the peduncle appears, start watering little by little, but not very much, otherwise the foliage may grow, and the peduncle may dry out. When the flower arrow stretches about 10 cm, then you need to start watering more abundantly. Important! Try not to wet the onion, because then it can result in a lot of trouble. Another nuance: the arrow may not grow even up to 10 cm, and the flowers will open right above the bulb. There is nothing wrong with this. After the hippeastrum has finished blooming, cut the peduncle about 10-15 cm from the bulb. Do not immediately tear out the remnants, but let them dry until they can be twisted out of the bulb without effort. If you tear right away, you can damage the bulb, and then this can contribute to the development of all sorts of troubles, including rotting. Peduncles must be cut after flowering, as then seeds begin to form, and their formation weakens the bulb.

After flowering, start actively feeding and watering the hippeastrum, because it took a lot of energy to bloom.

The bulb is planted in a pot of earth, placed on a window, and the plant is cared for throughout the year so that it does not enter a dormant period. Leaves develop continuously. With this care, hippeastrums bloom in winter, spring or summer.

In order for the plant to bloom in winter, in the fall the bulb is planted in a pot, placed in a very warm place and not watered until a sprout appears. Then the pot is transferred to the window and watered from the pan with warm water. After flowering until August - the usual care (watering, fertilizing). In August, watering is reduced, and in September only slightly moistened with an earthen lump, dried leaves are cut off. There is a period of rest

The bulb is not transplanted in the fall, but put the pot with the plant in a warm place and moisten only occasionally from the pallet, preventing the earth from drying out completely. With the advent of signs of new growth, the hippeastrum is transplanted.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

The flowering of hippeastrum always pleases the eye, because the beautiful gramophones of its inflorescences look very nice. But it also happens that a young and seemingly healthy plant for some reason refuses to bloom. What to do in such cases?

Hippeastrum does not bloom - reasons

The fact that your hippeastrum does not want to bloom may be due to one of the following factors:

The most common reason for this is ignorance of how properly organize the dormant period for the plant. If the flower “sleeps” during the winter months, then with the onset of spring it will definitely “wake up” and will certainly please you with abundant flowering.
Also, hippeastrum may not reproduce inflorescences as a result deficiency of fertilizers in the soil. When the earth is depleted, even vital nutrients - macro- and microelements - do not get to the bulb. In this case, your pet will not only not bloom, but may even die. Pay attention to the growth of the bulb: with sufficient nutrition, it should increase from year to year.
If you noticed that the hippeastrum not only did not bloom, but also its leaves began to dry, you should know: the reason may lie in insufficient watering. reverse side medals is waterlogging, in which the bulb begins to rot.
Hippeastrum will not bloom affected by a scab, spider mite or other disease characteristic of this type of indoor plants.

What to do if the hippeastrum does not bloom?

Based on the information above, there are several ways to make the hippeastrum bloom, and they completely depend on the reason for this behavior.

First of all, check the plant for diseases. To do this, inspect the flower bulb for rot and damage.

Think about the last time you fertilized and changed the soil. If necessary, transplant the plant into fresh soil with drainage and start fertilizing regularly. This should be done whenever possible in early spring when the period of active growth begins. Follow the norms of watering the hippeastrum, which should be moderate, while the water should not fall on the bulb.

If your flower is hippeastrum, even with good, complete care still does not bloom, pay attention to the change of seasons.

Hippeastrum - the star of captivating happiness

This plant goes into "hibernation" around October. By this time, watering is gradually reduced, and the leaves are cut off at the root. The bulb in a pot is sent to spend the winter in a cool, dark place, and is taken out only after 2-3 months.

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How to make hippeastrum bloom at home

Why hippeastrum sometimes does not bloom

Why the hippeastrum does not bloom, both beginners and professionals in floriculture would like to know. This bulbous plant is given an unusual decorative effect. beautiful flowers. But many lovers still cannot get it to bloom.

Hippeastrum can bloom twice a year.

Hippeastrum, with proper care, 2 times a year produces an arrow up to 50 cm high, on which 5-6 huge gramophone flowers of various colors flaunt. But the hippeastrum does not always please the owners with such beauty. In order to achieve its flowering, you need to know some features of cultivation.

Preparation of seed and soil

Hippeastrum is a bulbous plant.

When purchasing a bulb, you need to carefully examine it. Sometimes signs of diseases are hidden under the upper protective scales. The bulb should be dense, without spots and signs of rot. Only high-quality planting material will contribute to flowering. Before planting, be sure to process the bulb in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or any other purchased drug. This must be done, even if outwardly the bulb looks absolutely healthy.

Choose a bulb no smaller than 7 cm in diameter. In specimens of a smaller size, there will not be enough supply of nutrients to withstand the load during the formation of buds.

Very important condition for abundant flowering hippeastrum - this is a cramped pot, which should be slightly larger planting material. About 2 cm is enough between the walls of the container and the bulb. In a large pot, the plant will begin to “fatten”, and you can forget about flowering.

An important condition for the favorable development of hippeastrum is the preparation quality soil. It should be nutritious and pass water well. You can use special soil for bulbs.

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Bulb planting and care before and after flowering

Hippeastrum growth stages.

At the bottom of the pot, pour small pebbles, broken bricks or expanded clay for good drainage. Then cover them with some earth. Sprinkle some sand on top, and then place the bulb with the roots down. With this method of planting, the risk of bulb rotting will be practically eliminated. Then it should only be sprinkled on 2/3 with earth, lightly tamping the soil. After very carefully, until water appears in the pan, pour the earth. Do not let water get on the bulb. Next, the pot with the future plant should be placed in a warm place and covered with something dark. During the awakening period, the bulbs do not need to be watered or fed.

After the hippeastrum releases the arrow, wait until it grows to 10 cm, open the pot and put it on a window with diffused light. Now the flower has an active period of growth. It can be started to feed and water more abundantly.

After flowering at the hippeastrum, it is necessary to cut off the flower arrow, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm. If this is not done, seeds will form on it, which will take a lot of strength from the plant.

With the beginning of autumn, fertilizing and watering are gradually stopped and the plant is prepared for a dormant period. The leaves should help the bulb accumulate nutrients, so you can’t cut them until they are completely dry. By about mid-autumn, the hippeastrum is completely ready for wintering.

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rest period

As a rule, the hippeastrum does not bloom because it does not have a dormant period. To do this, the pot with the dormant bulb must be transferred to a dark, cool place with a temperature of about 12 ° C. At this time, watering and fertilizing should be completely stopped. You can only occasionally pour a little water into the pan, preventing the clod of earth from wetting.

Some growers practice digging up bulbs in the middle of autumn and storing them on racks in a dark and cool place.

The rest period should last 2-3 months. It is a rested bulb that can give abundant flowering.

Around December-January, the bulbs are prepared for awakening.

To do this, the pot is taken out to a warm place without access to light. After the flower arrow stretches to 10 cm, the hippeastrum is placed in the light and regular watering begins. Flowering occurs, depending on the variety, in about a month or a little more.

Having gained experience in caring for hippeastrum, you can make it bloom 2 times a year, competently providing it with dormant periods.

Rest period and transplant

The main reason why the hippeastrum does not bloom is nevertheless wrong conditions transplantation, dormancy and nutritional deficiencies. In this unusually beautiful flower, the state of dormancy and flowering are inextricably linked. After the fragrance, flower stalks are recommended to be cut until the ovaries have formed. Pruning is not done at the root, but only by half, so that the plant has time to take the remaining nutrients from it. Then, for several months, the indoor flower is watered, but in moderation and prepared for the next dormant period.

It is recommended to fertilize it 2-3 times a month so that the bulb grows stronger and gains strength. You can feed with a solution of mullein with the addition of mineral salts or complex formulations intended for indoor flowers. By the end of summer, the amount of watering is reduced.

The dormant period begins by October, its duration is 2-3 months. A pot with an onion is sent to a cool place, watering and feeding are stopped. As soon as the leaves wither, they are cut off at the root. After a few months, the onion is taken out, checked, cleaned of old roots and planted in a new substrate. Flower pot is selected approximately 5-10 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb itself. About 2 cm should remain from it to the walls of the container. It is necessary to provide excellent drainage, which will help fight excess water that leads to decay. From now on life cycle starts again.

If you did everything right, then after 8 weeks your handsome man will bloom, and you will be able to enjoy his sophistication and grace. Fragrance will come only if the conditions of rest, temperature and humidity are observed exactly. Each gardener has his own growing secrets, you can learn about some of them by watching the video.

Other reasons for the lack of flowering

You should not only go in cycles in providing a period of rest, although this is important. It is worth paying attention to a few more factors that can lead to a similar problem:

At home, hippeastrum blooms once a year, but you can see that big role plays the size of the bulb. Those that have a diameter of less than 7 cm never bloom. With what it can be connected? And the reason is quite simple - lack of nutrients. This can be easily solved if special fertilizers are applied to the soil once a week to flowering plants and continue top dressing until the end of summer.
Often the formation of an arrow is hindered by abundant foliage. To make the hippeastrum bloom, it is usually recommended to stop watering for a month by cutting off some of the leaves. Soon, a bright handsome man will delight with his fragrance. But then in the spring you will have to provide excellent top dressing, otherwise the plant may die.
The formation of flower stalks can also be influenced by the deepening of the bulb by more than 1/3 of the size, the presence of a large number of children.

Distillation method in water

Specimens grown not in traditional pots with soil, but in water look spectacular.

Why hippeastrum refuses to bloom

This is how hyacinth is usually grown at home, but you can also experiment with hippeastrum. From such distillation, the onions are quickly depleted and have to be thrown away. If you have prepared a dozen planting material, then this method can also be used. For this, special glass containers are taken, they are filled with 2/3 of the water settled in advance. The onion is sent to the vessel, but its bottom should not touch the liquid. The roots will grow quickly and will take the moisture they need. In a month you can wait for flowering.

If you want to enjoy blooming hippeastrums all winter, you can plant bulbs every 2 weeks. In a word, if the care is competent, then abundant flowering can be expected.

When growing hippeastrum, flower growers often face the problem of a lack of flowering, when the plant is actively developing only leaves.

The main reason is improper care.

What requirements must be met in order for the hippeastrum to bloom, read below.

Basic requirements for growing hippeastrum

The hippeastrum root system is a bulb with rather large roots. They do not die off during the dormant period, but continue to perform nutritional functions. When choosing a container for landing, this feature must be taken into account.

Hippeastrum will grow best in a tall, narrow container. Optimal distance from the wall of the pot to the bulb - 3 cm. It is also worth considering the depth of immersion of the bulb in the soil. It should rise above the soil level by 1/3. The soil mixture should not be compacted too much. It is better to wait until it settles, and then add desired volume earth.

Land for the plant should be well-drained, breathable, with neutral acidity.

For planting hippeastrum, you can take a ready-made store-bought substrate for bulbous crops, or mix it yourself in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1:

soddy soil;
peat;
sand;
compost.

A prerequisite for planting is drainage. In the bottom of the pot you need to do a sufficient amount drainage holes. Before filling the container with soil mixture, lay a layer of 1-2 cm of expanded clay or perlite on the bottom. Before planting, the bulbs are pre-soaked for 1 hour in hot water(+40 ° C), and then treated with Fundazol to protect against fungal diseases.

The optimum temperature regime for the plant is +20...+30°C. In winter, the temperature can drop to +18°C.

Important! Excessive watering during the period of spitting of the peduncle activates the development of green mass to the detriment of flowering. The plant may drop flowers.

In December, hippeastrum is placed on a well-lit windowsill. In a given period of time, these representatives of the flora are at rest, so some specimens may not have leaves at all. Watering is not carried out until the appearance of the flower arrow.

From the moment it hatches and until it reaches a height of 10 cm, watering is carried out very rarely in order to prevent compaction of the earthen clod, but no more. It is best to bring water along the edge of the pot or pour it into the pan. The main thing is not to wet the bulb.

Gradually increase the amount of moisture by moisturizing once a week. After flowering or during it, the plant organism begins to actively increase the green mass and lay the peduncle, which will bloom next year. In this phase, it is important to maintain soil moisture within 50%.

When the peduncle reaches a height of 15 cm, you can carry out the first dressing. At this stage, potassium-phosphorus fertilizer will be required. In this regard, wood ash or superphosphate is well suited. The ash is diluted with water (3 tbsp. per 1 liter) or added in dry form, 1 tbsp. l. on the plant, mixing with top layer soil.

Superphosphate must be diluted with water, since in dry form it dissolves for too long, and the plants do not receive sufficient nutrition. 1-2 g of powder is added to 1 liter of water. Fertilizers are applied once every 2 weeks throughout the warm period. On the 20th of August, they stop fertilizing and moistening the plants. They are moved to a cool room.

Depending on the cultivar, hippeastrums may completely shed their leaves before the dormant phase. This phase lasts from late August to October-November. In the dormant phase, watering is not carried out at all or is carried out once a month, depending on the temperature regime.

There is also the option of growing plants without a pronounced dormant phase. To do this, hippeastrums are provided with year-round standard summer lighting, watering is carried out as the soil dries up and top dressing is applied. Under such conditions, plants are able to enter the flowering phase twice a year.

IN summer time you can carry out a pick in an open area. On fresh air, with an increased feeding area, the plants develop better, and the bulbs form a large number of children. In September, flowers dive back into containers, then return to the premises.

Plant transplantation is carried out every year a month after flowering is completed or a month before exiting the dormant phase. A transplant may not be carried out at all. In such cases, it is imperative to change 3–5 cm of soil in a pot.
Plants are propagated by separating the daughter bulbs from the mother bulbs when they reach 2 cm or more. The second method of reproduction is pollination and seed production. This experience is best done outdoors.

It is important to understand that the formation of seeds will take a lot of strength from the plant body and weaken the root system, which will negatively affect the quality of flowering in the future. Seeds are sown immediately after harvest. The germination scheme is standard, as for any seedling.

After the emergence of shoots, the hippeastrums are moved to a well-lit window sill and the air temperature in the room is maintained within + 23 ... + 25 ° С. Young plants do not need a dormant period. They can be fed once a month in liquid form. Young hippeastrums, with any method of reproduction, enter the flowering phase in the 2nd-3rd year.

Preventive treatments are carried out once a year. To do this, you can use Fitosporin according to the instructions + periodically apply dry wood ash as a top dressing. It is especially important to carry out tillage before transplanting from open to closed ground and vice versa.

Features of the flowering period

The flowering phase lasts 2 to 3 months. At the end of the dormant period, the plant throws out a peduncle, the height of which can vary between 35–80 cm. At the end of the petiole there is a large funnel-shaped or tubular flower. Flowers are collected in inflorescences of 2-4 pcs.

Primary colors, depending on the cultivar:

white;
pink;
scarlet;
orange;
Dark red.

Did you know? The closest relative of hippeastrum is belladonna or amaralis beautiful. Both plants are capable of accumulating poison in their bulbs.

Stamens are large with yellow anthers. Go beyond the borders of the flower.

Why hippeastrum does not bloom and what to do at home?

The slightest deviations in the care of hippeastrum can become a factor preventing the formation of a peduncle.

No transfers

Given the fact that there is a small amount of soil in the hippeastrum pot, the bulb quickly draws nutrients out of it, braiding the entire lump with additional roots.

In this case, the solution to the problem is an urgent pick into a larger pot. It is optimal to choose a container larger by 3-5 cm.

Lack of fertilizer

For the formation of a peduncle, a culture needs a sufficient amount of potassium-phosphorus top dressing. It is optimal to alternate superphosphate with wood ash.

Flowering may also be absent if the fertilizers are not chosen correctly, for example, they contain nitrogen. In this case, there is an accelerated formation of leaves, but not a peduncle. In addition, nitrogenous fertilizers can provoke the development of fungal diseases.

Did you know? Hippeastrum received its name and began to be considered a species separate from amaralys only in 1821, despite the fact that descriptions of such plants have been found since 1737. The fault was the error of Carl Linnaeus, who attributed amaralyses and hippeastrums to the same species.

After adjusting the fertilizer application regime according to the above scheme, you should not wait for flowering in the same year, as the plant will need time to enrich with nutrients and lay the peduncle.

Wrong conditions of detention

Hippeastrum will not form a peduncle at low temperatures. Culture needs to clearly distinguish between the phases of rest and active vegetation. In summer, plants will not enter the flowering phase at temperatures below + 20 ° C and high humidity, over 70%.

Hippeastrum does not require spraying. They are not carried out even in the driest summer days. Optimum temperature for the germination of the peduncle + 23 ... + 30 ° С at a humidity of 60–70%.

Large pot size

Too large a new container can also be a contributing factor to the lack of flowers.

The plant spends all the nutrients for growth:

the bulb itself;
additional roots;
daughter bulbs;
ground part.

It simply does not have enough nutrition to form a peduncle.

In this case, you will either have to wait until the bulb reaches optimal sizes, or choose the capacity strictly according to the parameters of the root. The optimal distance to the walls of the pot and the bottom from the bulb is 3 cm.

Bulb too deep

The bulb should be immersed in the ground half or one quarter. On the one hand, when planting, it seems that it is inconvenient and the bulb will fall out.

Important! When planting, always mentally divide the bulb into 4 parts and deepen 25 or 50%, depending on the dimensions of the planting material.

But, the plant, deepening and developing its roots, is firmly held in the pot, and the upper part does not rot in the ground and is less attacked by pests.

No dormant period

Hippeastrum needs a dormant period, otherwise it will not be able to restore strength after flowering and will not enter this phase next year.

Before entering the dormant phase, the plants should be allowed to set flower stalks, and the lack of nutrients should be restored. Immediately after flowering, the growing conditions do not change. Fertilizers and moisture are applied to the soil according to old scheme. A month later, all these manipulations are stopped.

Seed pods, if the plants are in open ground, are left, in closed ground, they are removed. The leaves and peduncle are removed only when they begin to die off by themselves, changing color and losing density. If the leaves remain dense, then it is completely optional to remove them even during the dormant period.

The main thing is to ensure a decrease in temperature and partial shade so that the plant does not grow. Moisturizing the soil during the dormant period can be done once a month or not at all if the humidity in the room is above 70%.

Diseases or pests

The reason for the delay in the formation of the peduncle may be infection with diseases and pests.

One of the dangerous ailments for hippeastrum is staganosporosis (red bulb burn). The first symptoms of this disease are red dots and stains on the surface of the bulb sticking out of the ground. Gradually, the infection spreads to the ground part.

When the first symptoms are detected, it is necessary to process carefully sharp knife alcohol, pull the plant out of the pot and cut out all the affected areas, capturing 0.5 cm of healthy tissue bordering them. After this manipulation, all sections, the bulb itself must be powdered with a mixture of Fundazol and wood ash (1: 1).
Prepare a new soil, disinfect it with a hot 1% manganese solution and carry out an urgent transplant. Plant the bulb after such treatment as high as possible. This will make it possible to control its condition. When the danger of recurrence has passed, you can add the required amount of soil.

Anthracnose and late blight develop under the condition of growing in open ground. The causative agents of diseases are fungal spores that spread rapidly in high humidity. The pathogen is quickly carried by the wind, with the help of insects. Spores progress faster when there is mechanical damage on plants and potassium deficiency.

First symptoms:

dark spots on leaves and bulbs;
loss of turgor.

First of all, you need to remove all the affected parts of the plants. Then, treat the soil with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid and dust all available specimens with Fundazol in combination with wood ash.

Hippeastrum pests:

scab;
spider mite;
onion mite;
mealybug.

Important! As before planting other plants on the site, the soil before picking the hippeastrum in open ground need to be processed blue vitriol and carry out 2-3-fold cultivation to a depth of 20 cm in autumn and spring.

When the first symptoms of pest damage appear, it is necessary to eliminate their waste products from the ground part with a sponge dipped in soapy water. Heavily damaged parts are removed, and the sections are powdered with wood ash. Then they are treated three times with Fitoverm according to the instructions. The interval between treatments is 14–20 days.

How to avoid care mistakes

Preventive measures that prevent the development of diseases, pests and problems with the lack of flowering are in compliance with agrotechnical measures:

annual transplanting into pots exceeding the size of old containers by 4 cm;
mandatory soil disinfection;
observance of the plant neighborhood when planting in open ground - it is unacceptable to place hippeastrum next to bulbous crops;

"Why doesn't the hippeastrum bloom?" - this question was asked by every grower who cannot wait for beautiful buds. This is due to errors in care, forcing in general unpretentious plant slow down your growth. By eliminating them and providing indoor hippeastrum with good conditions, you will achieve beautiful and bright flowering.

Why there are no flowers - the main reasons

Several main reasons can affect the natural flowering process of hyperastrum:

No transfers. Adult hippeastrum needs transplants, it is best if they are carried out every 2 years. It is also recommended that every year after flowering, change 3 cm of the top layer of soil in a pot for a mixture of the same composition;
Nutrient deficiency. If the hippeastrum does not bloom for a long time, only the leaves are visible, and you can only dream of an arrow. The reason for this may be hidden in the lack of top dressing. The plant reacts positively to the application of fertilizers to the soil; nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compounds for bulbous flowers are suitable for this. You can use both liquid and dry dressings, which are added to the water during irrigation or applied directly to moist soil;
Absence the right amount Sveta. To bloom, hippeastrum needs good lighting, so it is best to put it on the south windowsill. With insufficiently bright light, the laying of the kidneys does not occur;
Too big pot. If the plant is planted in a spacious container, it will direct all its forces to the growth of leaves. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom, it needs a pot where, when planting the bulb, no more than 2-3 cm will remain to the brim;
The presence of children. Over time, the bulb begins to produce children, which, if not separated during transplantation, will inhibit budding. That is why, in the case when the propagation of the hippeastrum variety is not the goal, it is best to remove new bulbs from the mother plant;
The bulb is too deep. Often, it is this reason that prevents the growth of the arrow, since a plant planted in this way will never release a peduncle. Similar mistakes when planting in a pot are made by beginners who still cannot boast of sufficient experience in handling hippeastrums. In this case, you should take note of the following rule - the bulb should always be only half in the ground.
No dormant period. If the hippeastrum does not go into hibernation, this may adversely affect the frequency of its flowering.

How to make hippeastrum bloom at home

The secrets of care for flowering lie in observing the rules of planting, feeding, watering and organizing a dormant period. By providing the flower with good conditions for growth and development, you can achieve not one, but several blooms.

Correct fit

The substrate must be prepared in advance, taking turf, leaf soil, humus, sand or peat in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1.
Expanded clay or crushed brick is placed in a selected pot at the bottom, which will perform the function of removing excess moisture and prevent it from stagnation.
Then the soil is poured, the bulb is placed in it with the roots down.
The bulb should be only half in the ground, next to it you need to tamp the soil with your fingers.
After planting, the plant is placed on a bright windowsill and needs moderate watering.

Feeding and watering

Proper watering is a guarantee that the bulb will not rot and will be able to release a healthy peduncle.

How to water

Hippeastrum prefers moderately moist soil, so you need to “water” it only after the soil has dried.
In no case should moisture fall on the bulb and leaves, so it is best to water the flower in a pan.
However, you cannot use cold water, especially if the plant stands on a cold windowsill in winter - this can provoke the development of fungi.

How and what to feed

As for dressings, they cannot be carried out until the bulbs are completely rooted in a new pot. If you ignore this rule, the plant will begin to "fatten", and soon you are unlikely to wait for flowering.
Also, the hippeastrum refuses to release an arrow when overfeeding - you can determine it by the dark green color of the leaves.
For top dressing, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering indoor or bulbous plants.
Budding is promoted by fertilizers with a high phosphorus content, but they are effective only in sufficient light.
The frequency of fertilizing for adult bulbs is 2 times a month, while it is better to slightly reduce the concentration indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

We send hippeastrum to "rest"

Sometimes indoor hippeastrums can “ignore” the dormant period - a lot of time passes after flowering, and the leaves, instead of withering and drying, simply delight the eye with their healthy appearance. In this case, it is necessary to stimulate "hibernation" artificially by putting the bulb pot on its side.

Lack of a lot of light (preferably dark rooms);
Temperature conditions in the range from 10 to 18 degrees.

At the same time, it is necessary to reduce watering and fertilizing - after about a month, the leaves will begin to dry on the flower, which can be cut off only after complete wilting. It is strictly forbidden to remove the green deciduous mass, since the bulb receives the necessary nutritional components through it.

Putting the pot vertically is not worth it - in a supine position, it should stay up to 3 months. Why? - if you raise it earlier, the hippeastrum will begin to grow foliage and again refuse to bloom.

What to do if the hippeastrum does not bloom: a radical way

If the long-awaited arrow has not appeared, you can influence the hippeastrum in a different way. With the onset of summer, the flower is planted in open ground, where it must be left until autumn. After the bulb has gained strength, it is placed back in the pot.

If you do not want to plant a non-flowering hippeastrum in a flower bed, you can simply take the pot out into the garden. Over the summer, he will have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves and will delight with bright flowering.

Source: https://rastenia.info/tsvetyi/gippeastrum/pochemu-ne-tsvetet.html

How to make hippeastrum bloom

The answer to this question is simple: the flower is not properly cared for. Hippeastrum is useful to endure for the summer in the garden. It is better to place it in the shade under a tree, where the plant will not suffer from too active sun rays, lack of moisture.

It is important during this period to water regularly and periodically feed(full mineral fertilizer+ 0.5 teaspoon of sodium humate per bucket of water). On such “summer holidays”, the flower will gain strength and, after a period of rest, will delight with beautiful buds.

Hippeastrum does not bloom if soil is not suitable. It needs to be transplanted into light soil. Transplant to new land required every 3 years. Few Nutrients- feed the plant every 2 weeks with a complex fertilizer.

Hippeastrum does not bloom in too large a pot. Transplant the plant into a small shallow one, the diameter of which is one centimeter larger than the diameter of the bulb.

At the plant there was no dormant period- stop feeding and watering, cut off the leaves and put in a dark place for two months. Then put on a sunny windowsill, and after the appearance of flower stalks, water generously. Feed after a day or two.

Infested with diseases or pests- spray with special preparations.

Bulbs, less than 7 cm in diameter rarely bloom - provide high-quality and regular nutrition so that it forms faster and gains strength for flowering.

Too much moisture- before watering, the soil should dry out completely, water it into a pan. At the bottom of the pot, put 2 cm of expanded clay for drainage.

Hippeastrum usually does not bloom unless it has been provided with a dormant period in the fall in a cool room without light and watering for several weeks.

Place the hippeastrum bulbs in a thermos with very warm water for 3 hours and after treatment with foundation, immediately plant in a tight pot.
At the end of summer, cut off all the leaves, put a dark paper cap on the pot and do not water for a month.
It is better to remove the pot from the windowsill so that it does not heat up in the sun.
After this period, lightly water and then feed with fertilizer for flowering houseplants.

Without a dormant period, there will be no flower stalks

As we have already found out, the hypeastrum does not bloom without it. In late August-September, the plant needs to be prepared for rest. They dig it up and plant it in small pots, one or two bulbs each, deepening them only halfway into the ground. The distance from the bulb to the edge of the pot should not be more than 1 cm.

Hippeastrum does not bloom in large and deep pots. If the flower was not planted in the garden, but stood all summer in an apartment or balcony, then we skip the previous paragraph.

Completely stop feeding and gradually reduce watering.

Stop watering altogether after 2-3 weeks.
Cut off all the leaves.
We move the pots to a cool place.
We cover the top with an opaque material.
Leave in this state for 2 months at temperatures up to 200 C.

Important: hippeastrum during the dormant period can survive a short-term drop in temperature to -1, but the buds die even at 5 degrees above zero. We place the pots in the pantry or basement, but not on the street.

How to get hippeastrum out of dormancy

We remove the opaque cap and immediately transfer it to the light, pour quite a bit of water into the pan. As soon as the peduncle appears, the hippeastrum can be generously watered.

We do it in a week first feeding hippeastrum fertilizer for flowers with the addition of sodium humate.

Second time we feed the hippeastrum when the peduncle reaches 20 cm in length, and the third and subsequent top dressings are done after flowering.

In what soil to plant hippeastrum

1 option- buy soil for flowering plants and add perlite, biohumus to it. Option 2- mix in equal proportions sod land, sand and peat in equal parts.

Care for hippeastrum after flowering

After the flower wilts, the stem must be cut at a height of 3 cm from the bulb and fed. After a month, you can organize a dormant period if you want to achieve flowering twice a year. You can simply take care of all summer like an ordinary flowerpot or plant it in the garden. Next, we proceed according to the scheme described above.

How more leaves on the plant, the more likely it is that the hippeastrum will produce two peduncles. If less than 4 leaves appeared during the season, there will most likely be no flowering. Transplant the bulb into nutrient soil and feed regularly.

One leaf grows in about a month. Hippeastrum is very demanding on the quality of nutrition and care. Children can not be separated from the mother plant. As mentioned above, the hippeastrum feels good in cramped conditions, so over time you will get more flower branches in one pot.

Source: https://avgulen.com/gippeastrum/

GIPPEASTRUM: why does it not bloom at home? What to do?

We tell you why hippeastrum does not bloom at home and what to do with it. We describe how to make it bloom and give the best recommendations.

We also consider caring for hippeastrum after flowering and what to do next.

Why hippeastrum does not bloom at home: what to do?

The hippeastrum plant belongs to the Amaryllis family, which is why it is often confused with Amaryllis. However, these are two certain types plants and they differ, in particular, in the period of flowering and homeland.

Hippeastrum (Central America) blooms mainly in winter, and Amaryllis (South Africa) in summer. This is a very beautiful flower, received wide use Worldwide.

Depending on the size of the bulb and the condition, hippeastrum is able to bloom at home and twice a year.

Important factors for flowering are proper care, planting, and following some simple rules.

LANDING. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom at home, it is very important to plant it correctly. Proper planting and transplanting of a plant is the basis successful growth, development and flowering.

Before planting, choose a suitable size pot for hippeastrum. It is necessary that at the level of planting the bulb, there should be about two centimeters of free space around it.
Next point: planting depth. Ideally, the bulb should be 55-65% of its size in the substrate and the remaining 35-45% outside.
Optimal nutrient substrate: we take one part of peat, sand and soddy soil, and two parts of leafy soil. Be sure to drain at the bottom of the tank.
After planting, water the flower for good seal soil mixture.

Hippeastrum does not bloom, what should I do? rest period

From about the end of August, stop feeding and watering so that the plant “dries out” the leaves and it is easier for the bulb to leave for a dormant period.

In autumn, the hippeastrum has a dormant period, in which the foundation is laid for future flowering. Preparation for flowering consists of several stages.

At this time, reduce watering. Usually in October, dead leaves are cut off, and the plant is placed in a dark place with a temperature of + 10-12 ° C. Usually in some cool cellar or basement.

Important! Never cut the leaves of a plant, they contain nutrients Let the leaves dry out on their own.

Hippeastrum dries the leaves, obtaining from them the useful substances necessary for the bulb to further development. It is rarely watered and mostly in a pan so that the substrate in the pot is not completely soaked, but the roots do not die.

The awakening period can be controlled independently: either try to make the bulb wake up earlier or, on the contrary, delay its awakening period. Or let the bulb wake up when it's comfortable.

A month before the moment when you want the hippeastrum to bloom, it is taken out to a warm place (+ 23-26 ° C).
Before the appearance of the flower arrow, they do not water and cover from above (for example, with a pot) so that light does not fall on the bulb. A few days later, the flower awakens and a flower arrow appears, and then leaves.
From the moment the arrow appears, it is necessary to resume moderate watering of the bulb with warm water. After the flower arrow reaches a length of about 10 cm, you need to remove the shelter (pot).
Immediately transfer the flower to a well-lit place and begin to water abundantly. To increase the flowering period, it is recommended to remove the pistil.

How to make hippeastrum bloom at home?

If you follow all the previous tips and properly care for the flower, then you can try to apply some tricks.

One of the ways to make hippeastrum bloom at home is to plant a flower in open ground for the summer.

At the end spring frosts hippeastrum bulbs are planted in a semi-dark place in the garden with good soil. Usually large bulbs are separate from small ones. It can be planted in small beds, around which ditches are made for irrigation so that the bulb does not rot.
The bulbs are immersed in the soil by 2/3 and the roots are carefully straightened.
During the absence of rain, the flower is watered abundantly, about once every ten days, and more often.
Hippeastrum is fertilized in late June-early July with mineral fertilizer, supplementing it with half a teaspoon per 10 liters of water, sodium humate.
In August, watering must be stopped, and soil loosening should be continued.
In the second half of September, before the start of autumn frosts, the bulbs are dug up. Usually during this time they significantly increase in size and are replenished with children.
Hippeastrum is transplanted back into pots, after cutting too long roots at large bulbs and separating the children. Children are planted separately from large bulbs.
After transplanting, the plant is watered and then pruned to transition to dormancy.

blooming hippeastrum

Hippeastrum: home care after flowering - what to do?

It is important to properly care for the plant after flowering. At this time, the foundation is laid for its next flowering at home.

As soon as it has faded, it is necessary to cut the peduncle 10-15 cm from the bulb. It is better not to delay pruning as seeds begin to form after flowering, which negatively affects the condition of the bulb.
After that, let the remaining parts of the hippeastrum peduncle dry so that they can be removed without effort and risk of damage to the bulb itself.

"Festival of Flowers" warns! In no case do not tear out the peduncle immediately, as you can expose the hippeastrum, after flowering, to the risk of decay or disease.

Immediately after flowering, actively fertilize and water the plant so that it can quickly replenish the expended energy.
Also during this period, it is advisable to change the upper 2-3 cm of the substrate to a new one once a year.

TRANSPLANT HIPPEASTRUM AFTER FLOWERING

As the size of the bulb increases, about once every 2-3 years, a month after flowering, the hippeastrum is transplanted into a new pot.

Children with roots can be separated during transplantation, and if you want to get more flowers in one pot, you can leave it.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? Other reasons

If you properly care for the plant, you have tried the previous method to stimulate the flowering of hippeastrum, but there is no result, then perhaps your plant is simply not ready yet.

Most likely, the bulb does not have enough strength to bloom and is less than seven centimeters in diameter. This happens quite often.

INTERESTING ON THE TOPIC:

1. THE MOST UNpretentious HOUSE PLANTS AND BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS!

2. FLOWER "FEMALE HAPPINESS": WHAT ARE THE VARIETIES?

We wish you a successful hippeastrum care experience and beautiful flowering!

Source: http://FlowersHoliday.com/pochemy-ne-cvetet-hipperastrum/

Enthusiastic flower growers face a difficult task: how to organize a small garden on a small windowsill, which will constantly delight the owners with violent flowering. It must be said that not all plants can bloom in winter, and they have their own reasons for this. Some fall into "hibernation", others do not have enough heat.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?

As for the hippeastrum, this beautiful representative of the flora can bloom twice a year, throwing out a peduncle, on which several huge “stars” subsequently bloom.

Sometimes the creation of a bouquet is canceled and in order to stimulate this process, the grower has to make an effort.

The skills and abilities of lovers of bulbous plants will help to understand the problem from the inside and make the right decision.

Description of hippeastrum

In the world there are 80 plant species and another 600 hybrids. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, because nature itself and the best breeders worked on such beauty. The underground part of the plant is a bulb, from which several leaves and a peduncle grow. The beauty of the bouquet is preserved for two months.

For reproduction, one of the planting materials is necessary: seeds, children, bulbs. Interestingly, when propagated by seeds, you can get a plant with a new shade of a star if two stars took part in pollination. different plants. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom, you need to follow the rules:

Create a temperature regime.
Monitor the illumination of the windowsill.
Organize a dormant period preceding the formation of buds.

Some specimens are able to please the owners twice a year, but this requires good conditions. Experienced flower growers manage to achieve flowering by a certain date and in holidays give a good mood to all household members.

What stimulates the plant to shoot arrows?

When purchasing planting material in a store, you need to pay attention to its condition. Peel the bulb from the upper scales and inspect it, this is the only way to identify pests and hidden diseases. So:

A spot with a red border indicates the presence of stagonosporosis.
The possibility of fungal diseases is judged by the moisture content of the scales.
Traces of insects will be visible through an optical device - a magnifying glass.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

Before burying the material in the substrate, pickle it in a solution of potassium permanganate or other antiseptic. Then:

Prepare a flowerpot. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the bulb itself.
Put a layer of drainage on the bottom.
Prepare a mixture of peat, sand, sod land, taken in the same amount.
Pour it into a flowerpot, sprinkle with clean sand. Watch the soil level, it should not reach the edge of the pot by 1 cm, this will facilitate loosening.

A plant transplant is carried out once every three years, the bulb itself remains viable for 10 years.

Conditions that positively affect flowering

The decorativeness of the hippeastrum is achieved by creating a certain environment. Its main features cannot be neglected, you need:

Use a cramped pot.
Maintain planting depth.
Do not prune flower stalk with faded stars.
Do not fertilize a plant that has not had time to take root.
You can not feed the flower before flowering.
Take care of the onset of a period of rest. The energy needed to expel the arrow, the bulb accumulates during the "hibernation", organized on their own. Darkening and 13 degrees of heat will completely suit the flower.

Hippeastrum fell in love with flower growers for their non-capricious character. He feels comfortable during the heating period, when the radiators dry the air. Knowing some of the features of its content will help to understand what prevents the plant from blooming:

Too spacious a pot will cause the hippeastrum to begin to “fatten”.
With each transplant, choose a container whose edges are a couple of centimeters away from the bulb.
Observe the planting depth: the body of the onion should not be immersed in the soil mixture more than half.
Watering is carried out through the pan, so as not to moisten the thickened underground scaly part. When someone gets wet excess water drains from the tray.
Feeding the plant is not carried out, even if it has managed to bloom, but has not yet taken root. You can check it like this: take the arrow and shake it from side to side. If the bulb remains mobile, but it is too early to fertilize. You will learn about rooting by growing leaves, sometimes they appear a few months after planting.
Feeding waterings are not carried out before flowering, discard them even in the absence of leaves. You can start fertilizing only after throwing out the arrow.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?

The cardinal method that stimulates the flowering of hippeastrum is as follows:

Plant the stubborn in open ground in the summer.
When the plant grows leaves, dig it up and transfer it to a cellar or other, not too dry room. This must be done before the first freezing of the soil.
The period when the leaves dry up will not last long. During this time, all the nutrients migrate to the bulb.
4Now transplant it into a pot and put it in a dark and cool place, that is, create a “hibernation” phase.

After a month, put the flowerpot on the windowsill and wait little miracle- long and abundant flowering.

Source: https://moycvet.ru/uhod/pochemu-ne-cvetet-gippeastrum.html

Hippeastrum: cultivation and care at home, photo why it does not bloom

Bulbous indoor plant hippeastrum is famous for its chic flowers of different colors and shapes.

At home, they mainly grow hippeastrum hybrid, which is distinguished by a large bulb, long leaves and a peduncle up to 1.2 m long.

When flowering on this peduncle, several large buds with a short tube are located at once. The color of flowers can be red, pink, yellow, white, hybrid.

Hippeastrum care - basic rules

native of Latin America hippeastrum at home pleases with its flowering several times a year. In most cases, the appearance of buds occurs in the winter season.

However, some flower growers rarely see the flowering of their favorite plant. Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? The answer to this question can be simple - the wrong care.

In this article, we will try to describe in detail all the secrets for caring for hippeastrum at home.

Lighting

The plant loves light and grows well on south, southeast and southwest window sills. It is desirable to cover it from direct sunlight, especially during flowering. Otherwise, the buds can get burned and quickly wither.

In order for the flower to retain its compact shape, it is recommended to periodically rotate it around its axis. In winter, it may not have enough light, so lighting with fluorescent lamps is required. Light day should last at least 10 hours.

The soil

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? The reason may be that too dense soil without nutrients is chosen for the plant. For an exotic flower, the soil must be loose and consist of several components. There are several options for its preparation:

Turf land, sand, peat (1:1:1).
Coarse-grained sand, soddy soil, leafy soil, humus (2:2:2:1).
Leafy earth, humus (3:1).

Watering

For development, growth and flowering, an important role is played by proper watering. Waterlogging for hippeastrum can be detrimental, because in natural conditions it grows in dry areas.

It is best to use watering through the pan. In about 30 minutes, the soil will absorb the required amount of water, and its remains will need to be drained.

Do not leave water in the pan, as the roots will begin to sour, which will lead to rotting of the bulb.

The dormant period of the plant begins at the end of summer. At this time, the frequency of watering is reduced. The pot should be placed in a cool place, preferably in the basement. Care must be taken not to dry out the roots. To do this, sometimes they can be moistened.

If the hippeastrum does not bloom, then perhaps the conditions for a dormant period, which should last for two months, were not created for it. After that, the flower is again placed in a bright place, but until the peduncle appears, do not water it.

In order for the peduncle to grow, and not the leaves, watering should not be plentiful. More often and more abundantly, the plant is watered when the “arrow” is 7-10 cm.

You don't need to spray the leaves. It is enough to wipe them from time to time with a damp cloth.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to start feeding the flower after the appearance of the “arrow”, which should reach a height of about 7 cm. From now on, fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium should be applied every two weeks. In flower shops, you can buy special fertilizer for blooming bulbous flowers.

As organic matter, a solution of bird droppings (for 5 liters of water - 35 grams) or mullein (for 5 liters of water - 125 grams) is suitable.

Hippeastrum - transplant and reproduction

As soon as the flower fades, the withered buds are cut off, and the bulb is transplanted into a pot, which should be 6 cm larger in diameter. It should be buried in the ground by 2/3. An insufficiently strong plant is transplanted once every three years.

Hippeastrum can be propagated in three ways:

Daughter bulbs.
The division of the main bulb.
Seeds.

The easiest way is to use the first two methods. Bulb for propagation should be well developed and strong. It is divided into two parts so that an even piece of the bottom and scales remain. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated or charcoal.

Bulb slices or babies are planted in a container with a mixture of peat and soddy soil. During their engraftment, the soil should be moist (but not wet), and the air temperature should reach + 24-25 degrees.

As soon as young plants adapt, they are transplanted into separate pots, which should be quite a bit over size planting material. The optimal distance between the edges of the container and the onion is 5-6 cm.

Onions should not be buried more than half in the ground.

Pests and diseases

Of the pests on the hippeastrum, a mealybug, spider mite, scale insect, aphid can settle. You can get rid of them by periodically rubbing the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If it is not effective, then it is recommended to use Fitoverm or Aktelik.

Red burn mushroom, red rot and false powdery mildew are the most common plant diseases. The reasons for their appearance can be waterlogging, lack of light, excess light, heavy soil. All affected parts must be removed. The bulb must be treated with Fundazol or Fitosporin.

Why hippeastrum does not bloom - care mistakes

Too abundant or insufficient watering, lack of nutrients, improper maintenance during the dormant period - all these may be the reasons for the lack of flowering of an exotic plant.

When growing hippeastrum at home, flower growers often face other problems:

Flowers blacken or darken- high humidity and low temperature.
Flowers wilt, leaves turn pale- excess or lack of moisture.
Bulb Chopping- insufficient lighting, the appearance of children, too abundant flowering.

If the plant has faded and is in a cool place, but still continues to produce leaves, then it is possible:

The bulb is sent to "hibernation" early. Sluggish scales speak of it. In this case, it is recommended to transplant the flower, and continue to water and feed.
The plant has completed its rest and it is time to bring it out into the light if the bulb has grown and is dense.

Only dense healthy bulbs that have recovered during the growing season should be sent to rest. For young onions that have never bloomed, a dormant period is not needed. An overgrown plant before "rest" is recommended to be seated in separate containers.

To date, a lot of varieties of hippeastrum have been bred. The most beautiful of them are Joker, Evergreen, Benfica, Amorise, Alfresco, 98-60, Magnum. There are over 200 varieties of this amazing flower. Knowing all the rules for care, in winter you can admire the insanely beautiful exotic buds. Moreover, caring for hippeastrum is not at all difficult.

It is important during this period to water regularly and periodically feed(full mineral fertilizer + 0.5 teaspoon of sodium humate per bucket of water). On such “summer holidays”, the flower will gain strength and, after a period of rest, will delight with beautiful buds.

Hippeastrum does not bloom if soil is not suitable. It needs to be transplanted into light soil. Replant to new soil every 3 years. Few Nutrients- feed the plant every 2 weeks with a complex fertilizer.

Hippeastrum does not bloom in too large a pot. Transplant the plant into a small shallow one, the diameter of which is one centimeter larger than the diameter of the bulb.

Infested with diseases or pests- spray with special preparations.

Bulbs, less than 7 cm in diameter rarely bloom - provide high-quality and regular nutrition so that it forms faster and gains strength for flowering.

Too much moisture- before watering, the soil should dry out completely, water it into a pan. At the bottom of the pot, put 2 cm of expanded clay for drainage.

Hippeastrum usually does not bloom unless it has been provided with a dormant period in the fall in a cool room without light and watering for several weeks.

Place the hippeastrum bulbs in a thermos with very warm water for 3 hours and, after treatment with foundationazole, immediately plant in a tight pot.
At the end of summer, cut off all the leaves, put a dark paper cap on the pot and do not water for a month.
It is better to remove the pot from the windowsill so that it does not heat up in the sun.
After this period, lightly water and then feed with fertilizer for flowering houseplants.

Without a dormant period, there will be no flower stalks

Hippeastrum does not bloom in large and deep pots. If the flower was not planted in the garden, but stood all summer in an apartment or balcony, then we skip the previous paragraph.

Completely stop feeding and gradually reduce watering.

Stop watering altogether after 2-3 weeks.
Cut off all the leaves.
We move the pots to a cool place.
We cover the top with an opaque material.
We leave in this state for 2 months at temperatures up to 20 0 C.

How to get hippeastrum out of dormancy

We remove the opaque cap and immediately transfer it to the light, pour quite a bit of water into the pan. As soon as the peduncle appears, the hippeastrum can be generously watered.

We do it in a week first feeding hippeastrum fertilizer for flowers with the addition of sodium humate. Second time we feed the hippeastrum when the peduncle reaches 20 cm in length, and the third and subsequent top dressings are done after flowering.

In what soil to plant hippeastrum

1 option- buy soil for flowering plants and add perlite, biohumus to it. Option 2- mix in equal proportions sod land, sand and peat in equal parts.

Care for hippeastrum after flowering

The more leaves on the plant, the more likely it is that the hippeastrum will produce two peduncles. If less than 4 leaves appeared during the season, there will most likely be no flowering. Transplant the bulb into nutrient soil and feed regularly.

One leaf grows in about a month. Hippeastrum is very demanding on the quality of nutrition and care. Children can not be separated from the mother plant.

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