Large-leaved hydrangea does not grow in height. Why hydrangea does not bloom in the garden and at home. Incorrect hydrangea pruning
In most cases, the cause of the death of flowers is the soil, the properties of which are unsuitable and unfavorable for hydrangeas. It can be black soil, manure or alkaline soils. In alkaline soils, as a rule, there is a lot of lime, but little iron, and this causes leaves at the initial stage, and then the death of plants. You can improve the condition of hydrangeas by feeding them with a solution iron sulphate at the rate of 5-6 grams per bucket of water.
Also, the cause of death can be constant watering with hard water. It is necessary to use settled water for irrigation.
When planting a hydrangea from a container to a new place, its roots should not be cut. Root pruning is practiced in many plants, after which the root system develops much better, but for a capricious hydrangea this method is too harsh, it may even die. It is best to carefully remove the plant from the container and plant without making any changes to the earth ball, as transplanting for this plant in itself is a lot of stress.
It is impossible to store purchased hydrangea seedlings for a long time without planting in a permanent place. And it is better not to buy such seedlings in stores - most likely, they will die. Hydrangeas do not tolerate prolonged drought and frequent dragging from place to place. Purchase only plants whose soil is moist, leaves and flowers undamaged, and transplanted as soon as possible.
The purchased hydrangea is accustomed to drip irrigation and constant fertilization, and if this habitual regimen changes too drastically, the plant can also get sick. Therefore, the first month should gradually increase the time between waterings and be sure to fertilize, even if this is not practiced for other plants. Hydrangea gets used to the new regime for about 1.5 - 2 months.
Why hydrangea refuses to bloom
Most often, the hydrangea refuses to release new flower caps due to insufficient watering. hydrangea loves frequent watering and does not tolerate drought. The cause may be weakened plant roots, for example, after transplantation. In this case, the hydrangea will bloom in about a month.
If it doesn't bloom old bush, the cause may be incorrect cropping. Old bushes form new flower caps only at the ends of last year's shoots, and if pruning has been done for splendor, flowers can only be expected for next year.
The reason for the lack of flowers may be poor acclimatization. At present, hydrangea is popular, and in the pursuit of profit, many offer varieties for sale that the short summer of the northern strip does not allow to lay flower buds. It will take more than a dozen years to acclimatize and adapt such bushes, but for now you can grow them
Why hydrangea does not grow well: information based on the experience of gardeners. Read in the article what to do if the hydrangea does not grow well at home or in the garden?
Hydrangea grows poorly - what to do?
Hydrangea growth is influenced by several factors: acidity of the soil from the type of plant, watering, lighting, temperature. Plants and flowering are indicators of the state of the root system, but they also respond to weather and the impact of gardeners. Vegetation and budding of hydrangea begins in mid-spring, when the soil warms up completely and the air temperature rises. WITH in early spring development times are also pushed back.
Hydrangea grows poorly if:
- Wintering is broken;
- There were rotten places;
- The acidity of the earth is lowered;
- The earth has dried up;
- The soil has gone astray and does not allow water to pass through;
- Not enough fertilizer;
Violation of wintering + damaged places of shrubs
Soil acidity for hydrangea
Panicled, large-leaved hydrangeas love acidic soil, unlike treelike , which allows a slight content of lime in the ground without consequences for its health. Hydrangeas take root on sandy, soddy-deciduous and peat soils with moderate top dressing and an adjusted moisture regime. Do not increase the amount of lime or add acid-neutralizing preparations.
How to acidify the soil: 2 tbsp. l. oxalic acid per 10 liters of water. Electrolytes for batteries: 10 grams per 10 liters of water. Work only in a mask and gloves! Spill the earth periodically with water.
The ground is dry + clogged
On depleted soils, after the winter cold, the growth of hydrangea stops. In early spring, you can cut or water the hydrangea, but it is better use fertilizer , especially nitrogen ones, which stimulate the growth of green leaves. Before the calendar period of budding, nitrogen fertilizers are not placed. In addition, the soil should pass water and air well without retaining it, so loosen it so that it does not stray and analyze the location of the hydrangea in the garden - perhaps nearby plants with a powerful root system that draw moisture.
hydrangea lighting
Light is no less important than other care conditions. Hydrangea is grown in shady areas, but each amendment in the main content complex should be used in moderation: there is no need to shade the hydrangea in early spring - the sun's rays do not incinerate the leaf plate or branches, but only stimulate the development of leaves and buds.
Peculiarities home growing:
What to do if hydrangea does not grow well:
- Examine the plant, remove / treat the detected lesions;
- Increase lighting volumes;
- Introduce more fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones;
- Water and loosen the earth around the hydrangea;
- Carry out renewing pruning before budding;
- Check the acidity of the soil;
↓ Write in the comments why your hydrangea does not grow well? What reasons, in your opinion, influenced the development? Share author's advice for recovery.
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Hydrangea, planting and care - are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition soil can lead to disease and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...
Site selection and soil preparation
When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn - in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental leafy plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, as the bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.
Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is desirable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and high winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water heavily.
The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil adversely affects development. The soil should be with a Ph level of approximately 5.0.
Planting hydrangeas in open ground
In the northern regions of the country, plant hydrangea in open ground preferably in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a landing pit for beautiful bush, whose dimensions are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m deep. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.
choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo
It is necessary to bring the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root neck, which should be flush with the soil. A slight penetration is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; a too deep landing can subsequently lead to neck rotting.
The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well compacted. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to a depth of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.
Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care
To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also keeps weeds from growing and protects the roots from overheating. As a mulching material, peat chips, wood chips or bark are used, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.
Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulching is best done in late spring, when the ground is warm but still damp.
watering hydrangeas - pictured
In order for the shrub to grow well and please with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - the first days of June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangeas is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to lignify by the winter.
For strong and flexible shoots, ornamental shrubs are watered with a weak potassium permanganate solution. Pink colour. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which are necessary for the plant.
mulching hydrangeas wood chips- on the picture
Paniculata hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover predominantly have pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and raspberry in color; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.
To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, rusty metal cans should be buried.
Hydrangea pruning - continue to care
Do I need to prune hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that the pruning of large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.
Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. Wherein, experienced gardeners it is not recommended to remove a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, do not touch, cut only those that are bad and grow inside the bush.
autumn pruning hydrangeas - pictured
You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but preferably in autumn period, as the sap flow slows down, and the haircut will help lush flowering in the spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.
Hydrangea pruning for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them winter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all complicated, will surely please its lush bloom if you suddenly decide to grow unpretentious plant in your garden.
Gotensias: related photos
We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth
The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and enough moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Landing place
Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open space but strong sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day is very important. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well in fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on the neutral slow development and pale color.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).
When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.
soil mixture
Compound: humus, sod land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil(chernozem), peat and sand - 2:2:1:1. And nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).
If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.
landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.
If you want to get more early flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.
landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
planting depth
The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
- Dig a hole right size 15-30 days before planting.
- Prepare the potting mix and backfill the planting hole.
- Dig a hole and place the seedling on the cone of the soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually backfill the hole and compact the soil.
- Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
- Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch trunk circle for more moisture retention. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.
top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).
The plant's need for nutrients is high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.
- Comprehensive nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days. - Potassium-phosphorus top dressing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid top dressing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
- During flowering. Repeat the previous top dressing at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the laying of new flower buds.
- Not recommended for feeding wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
- Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangeas
The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.
It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the near-stem circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are slightly swollen, active movement there are no juices, plus such cut shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, cut every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)
These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. best moment: mid - end of March (as soon as the snow melted). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
- Hydrangea arborescens wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, weak and inward-growing shoots are pruned.
- Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.
Adviсe
- To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
- Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?
In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.
stamp form
Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low trunk. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from the apical cutting, and cut the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
Example standard form hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter
After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.
- Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Since this species can be grown in those parts where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the section - "cropping". - In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.
Because leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea perish from small frosts at night, preparation for winter begins in the middle - end of October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
- To do this, a bush is spudded with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
- Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush put a box (box).
- After graduation spring frosts(April) winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
- It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter (“hut”) above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Hydrangea shelter for the winter 
The top layer of winter shelter for hydrangeas
In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
- In autumn, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, then the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
- Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
- Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). Bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
- Before the onset of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any nonwoven fabric(burlap, agrofibre).
- Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the shelter and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
- Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spud with earth and additionally cover 11-16 cm for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.
When can I open hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.
- In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake the peat or earth and cover again with burlap.
- In early April, when the night frosts end and stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.
Indicated approximate dates for the Moscow region.
Winter hardiness of hydrangea
Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle lane Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.
The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (often indoors).
- HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
- HOW TO FIGHT APHIDS? FIGHT RULES AND THE BEST DRUGS!
Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?
We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.
- Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially organic fertilizers flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
- Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed when over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to cut it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
- Too much direct sunlight. Ambient light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.
How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?
To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, white or pink flowers(weakly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In autumn, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out on open air and leave until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage moss and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTOS AND NAMES!
We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!
The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms endless summer and gives pleasure with its appearance and aroma. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field will not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces beautifully. And if you select varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!
When to plant hydrangea: mastering the rules of planting
When choosing this flower as a backyard decoration, you will not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and fertilize on time. Hydrangea should be planted in open ground in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Landing in open ground should take place in the month of May or September.
How to plant a hydrangea to get a lush bush
At the site of planting, hydrangeas dig a hole in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter. When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and occupies a decent area. The recesses are covered with a special compound consisting of 1 part sand, 1 part peat, 2 parts soil, 2 parts humus. Add fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus.
It is important! Do not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of a flower - this will destroy a fragile plant.
When planting a bush, it is not necessary to deeply deepen the root neck - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.
Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: when competent landing and caring for hydrangea, it will bloom the next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to cut off the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and gets stronger for the next flowering.
How to care for hydrangeas in the garden
This is an easy care plant. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilizing on schedule. If you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture when planting, then you will not have to water often. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.
Perennial shrub requires competent pruning. Prune it before the start of the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots need only be shortened to 4-5 buds. Withered inflorescences periodically remove. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be cut to stumps, which will then give strength to new shoots.
How to plant a hydrangea: mastering top dressing and fertilizers
Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and top dressing.
Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:
- in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
- it is necessary to feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in the season during the swelling of the buds;
- over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.
It is important! An excess of nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color of the inflorescences to a pale green tint.
About methods of reproduction
Along with other shrubs perennials, this miracle bush propagates vegetatively using cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting layering and sowing seeds.
When propagated by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The composition of the soil includes coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crumbled mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Planted cuttings with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly monitor temperature regime(+17+20С) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted in the chosen place for planting and provide all of the above care activities.
When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.
Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole was dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to cut the shoot slightly in the area where it will be buried. The new formation needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.
About possible diseases and pests
The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, the appearance of spider mites and leaf aphids are the most common ailments of garden hydrangea.
Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to an excess of lime or humus in the ground. Add potassium nitrate, copper sulfate to the watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.
Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Treatment of the leaves of the plant will help get rid of the disease. blue vitriol with the addition of laundry soap.
It is not capable of overcoming the army of aphids garlic tincture. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) Is crushed and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then added laundry soap(40 gr.). This solution is sprayed onto the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.
Varietal and species classification
The plant is rightfully considered the favorite of all other summer cottages. garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, a variety of shades and forms of inflorescences give this plant an excellent image and make it desirable for owners. country houses, dachas, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.
The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels, the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-tone. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and propagate, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But most popular among owners land plots varieties are considered:
- "Anabel" is a bush with a lush color, reaching a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
- "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
- "Sterilis" with its hemispheres of pale green and white color from mid-summer to October, homeowners cannot but delight with lush color and aroma.
- "BellaAnna" is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink and purple flowers, the flowering period is until October.
- "Invincibel Spirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish tint of petals.
Paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are very popular. They have flowers original form, bloom for a long period, can change color. The plant is frost-resistant and endures even the most severe winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:
- "Vanilla Fraise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
- "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, the flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
- 'PinkyWinky' is attractive with pale red petals.
Hydrangea in landscape design projects
Excellent compositions are built by modern designers using various forms and colours. Considering climatic conditions territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing varieties of tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangeas for planting.
Experts do not advise using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Plants blooming in pale blue, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis will successfully highlight the advantages of bushes.
This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, hydrangea for for long years will be a treat for the eyes.
Garden hydrangea planting and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.
Garden hydrangea - types and varieties
There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are those that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.
The most common types:
- large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers may vary in color. Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, tolerates temperatures up to -10°C
- Chereshkovaya. Liana variety. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will spread along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
- Treelike. Flowers are snow white. Height - up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but it freezes in winter. The advantage is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires heavy spring pruning.
- Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. Bush height - 3-4 m. Unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.
Based on these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type of hydrangea, they can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.
Growing features
Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream hue. Soil with a high alkali content gives the flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - blue.
It is very important for a shrub bright lighting, but the scorching sun's rays are detrimental to him, as well as a deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.
It is important not to overfeed seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.
Landing in open ground
Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.
Site and soil preparation
The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well-drained. Acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in partial shade or full sun. The best place for planting is light penumbra; plants will not bloom in strong shade.
The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If planned group landing, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. The next layer is poured a little peat.
How and when to plant?
Landing is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in the spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.
In a seedling, it is desirable to slightly shorten the roots. When planting, you need to make sure that the root neck is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, make sure that a strong stream of water does not wash away the soil near the roots.
As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of forming new roots is in full swing.
phantom hydrangea care
Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculate family. It blooms profusely throughout the season with long panicles and exudes pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.
Watering and feeding
"Hydrangea" in Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very moisture-loving, so in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and plentiful. As soon as upper layer the soil dries out a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, as the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.
Watering - best time for feeding. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilizer, during the budding period - potassium and phosphorus.
It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring and summer, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground to improve aeration.
How to transplant and prune?
The plant tolerates pruning well. If it is not cut, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds swell. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily updated by cutting them almost to the root.
All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:
- To the first category includes those species and varieties whose flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year (petiolate, prickly, large-leaved, serrated). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
- To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require heavy pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.
When the hydrangea is about to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush for 5 years will help to get a beautiful little tree.
Phantom hydrangea should be transplanted only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, a transplant is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.
Flower care in autumn
Hydrangea Care garden autumn consists in pruning inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes should be high up, and the ground around them should be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.
How does hydrangea winter?
In the conditions of the middle zone, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for safety, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is removed for the winter in a room with a positive temperature, since very coldy can destroy him.
Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped with spunbond and a mesh frame is built near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breath of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.
How does garden hydrangea reproduce?
The easiest way to propagate hydrangea cuttings. They are cut in spring from annual green shoots. Cut at a right angle. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.
A good option is to propagate the flower by division. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each has several renewal buds. Blanks are planted in pre-marked places.
Also without special efforts Hydrangeas can be propagated by layering. Young shoots are carefully bent to the ground, fixed and dug in with earth, leaving the top (about 20 cm). Already next spring or autumn, layering with roots can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.
Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too time-consuming methods. Knowing how garden hydrangea breeds, you can choose in advance suitable way and do it in a timely manner.
Protection against diseases and pests
Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you need to buy new plants only in proven nurseries. Other causes of disease are overcrowded plantings, lack of nutrients and high humidity air.
Many fungal diseases can be combated with copper oxychloride.
One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to the lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.
Use in landscape design
Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly, and they need a lot of space.
A flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located with north side Houses. When choosing companion hydrangeas in a mixborder, you need to take into account their features. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosta, cuff. If the plot is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. Often these shrubs are used to limit garden areas.
Hydrangeas go well with different styles garden design, so everyone can grow them.
Often even experienced growers faced with the problem of the lack of flowers in the garden. This plant is demanding on growing conditions. The slightest mistake in care can lead to the fact that its buds wither and fall off, or even do not appear at all.
To ensure long-term and abundant flowering young and adult bushes, you need to know what factors most often affect their flowering. In this case, you can quickly fix the problem when it occurs.
The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solution
Most often, novice flower growers make the following gross mistakes in caring for a flower. Why garden hydrangea does not bloom:
Often there are anomalies in the growth and development of the root system, especially in newly acquired plants. This leads to a violation of the development of the bush and the lack of flowering.
Consider the reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in more detail.
Preparing for the winter
Hydrangea does not tolerate frost. Any decrease in air temperature below 0ºС can lead to freezing of flower buds. In this case, the plant will not bloom. To protect the bush from frost, it must be covered for the winter.
Without waiting for the autumn frosts, the leaves are cut off from the bush, the branches are pulled together with a tourniquet and wrapped with covering material. The bush is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, it is gradually freed from spruce branches, but finally opened only with the departure of frost and the onset of heat.
pruning
In order for the plant to bloom, it must be cut correctly. In the spring, dry, old and weak branches are pruned.
All well-developed shoots of the previous year are not touched. Usually it is on their tops that flowers form. If an inexperienced grower cuts off these shoots, the plant will not form buds and will not bloom.
top dressing
Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in summer and early autumn.
They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not contribute to flowering. And the rapid growth of shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen for the cold and freeze.
Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season. At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season. In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering. In early September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are applied to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.
Root development and flowering
For flowering, the bush must have a powerful root system. If the roots are poorly developed, there is no hope for early flowering. Bushes that are too young or overfed with fertilizers can take several years to form roots. And only after that such bushes bloom.
Choosing the right place for planting a bush and caring for it will allow you to overcome all difficulties and achieve annual flowering.
Also affect the flowering of the bush can:
- Insufficient watering;
- High air temperature;
- Excess sunlight or its lack;
- Heavy clay soil.
Reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties
At various kinds hydrangeas have their own, peculiar only to this variety, reasons for the absence of flowers and buds. Among garden hydrangeas, the most popular are:
Consider the most likely reasons why they do not bloom.
Panicled hydrangea is the most frost-resistant species. It tolerates cold so easily that it can not be covered at all for the winter. Its buds do not freeze over, as inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year. However, this species may not bloom for some other reason.
The main reason why panicle hydrangea does not bloom is the unsuitable composition of the soil.. For such a plant, heavy loamy soil with weak acidity is more suitable. Light sandy soils are not acceptable for this species.
Also very often the plant refuses to bloom due to lack of nutrition. Therefore, feeding should be given special attention.
Why large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom: most often due to freezing of shoots and buds. There are many varieties of this species, which have different winter hardiness.
If some of them can be grown in open ground, covering for the winter, then others freeze out even with careful shelter. Such varieties can only be grown indoors as potted plants.
Large-leaved hydrangea pruning should also be done carefully.. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year, which cannot be touched during pruning. If they are shortened, then the flower buds will be removed and the plant will not bloom.
This species is quite cold hardy. However, if the bushes are not covered, in a harsh winter, most of the flower buds will freeze. In summer, a frozen bush will not bloom. Therefore, the plant needs to be covered for the winter.
This species needs to be fed regularly., first with fertilizers for leaf growth, then with fertilizers for flowering. Without top dressing, the plant will refuse to bloom.
The reason why the tree hydrangea does not bloom may be improper watering. In overdried soil, especially in the summer heat, such a bush develops very slowly and never blooms.
Garden hydrangea refuses to bloom for several years
Your garden beauty pleased with annual flowering, but for several years now there have been no flowers on it. What is the reason? If the bush was protected from frost, it was properly fed and watered, most probable cause lack of buds are diseases and pests. A plant that is sick or affected by harmful insects will not bloom.
Aphids, spider mites, weevils and many other pests settle on garden hydrangeas. To kill insects, it is recommended to treat the bush with insecticides.
Hydrangea is most often affected by viral mosaic disease and fungal diseases : downy mildew and gray mold. To destroy fungi, the bush is treated with fungicidal preparations. With a viral infection, all affected areas of the plant are cut out and burned.
Proper feeding of garden hydrangea for flowering
What to do if the garden hydrangea does not bloom - perhaps the reasons are in feeding. Feeding hydrangeas is a mandatory procedure for proper growth and flowering. Spring, summer and autumn fundamentally differ in the composition of the fertilizers used.
At the beginning of spring when there is an active increase in leaf mass, nitrogen fertilizers are required for the plant. Usually a mixture of urea and potassium sulfate is used. One tablespoon of these substances is diluted in 10 liters of water. For an adult hydrangea bush, about 5 liters of solution are needed. Sometimes slurry is used for irrigation, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.
At the end of spring when the budding period begins, it is recommended to feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.
Superphosphate gives the best results. One tablespoon of this substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. You can also use any other mineral complex fertilizer.
During summer period when the plant is actively blooming, it is fed 2-3 times with special fertilizers for flowering garden plants. It is also useful to acidify the soil in the place where the bush grows.
To do this, use whey or citric acid. Serum is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. Citric acid is taken at the tip of a tablespoon and dissolved in 10 liters of water.
At the beginning of autumn to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water the hydrangea bushes.
Now you know why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, but what if you have a houseplant?
Why hydrangea does not bloom indoors
IN room conditions The following reasons are possible due to which the hydrangea refuses to bloom:
- Wrong choice of lighting;
- Unsuitable soil composition for the plant;
- Lack of moisture in the soil and in the air;
- Sharp jumps in temperature;
- Bush age.
For the plant in the room to bloom every year, it must be kept in a bright place, but direct sunlight should not fall on the leaves. With a lack of lighting or its excess, flowering most likely will not occur.
The plant loves acidic soil. Also for indoor varieties it doesn't have to be very heavy. Clay soil is not suitable.
It is better to choose a purchased fertile earthen mixture without clay, but with a small amount of peat. Also, one should not forget about the annual transplantation of the bush into a new soil, so that it blooms for a long time and abundantly.
The flower does not tolerate drying out of the soil and too dry air. To create optimal conditions for its growth and flowering, it is necessary to keep the earthen ball in the pot always wet, and spray the leaves with settled water.
Do not allow a sharp change in temperature in the room where the flower grows. In such conditions, she does not grow buds. If the buds have already formed, then they can fall off from a sharp drop in temperature.
Over time, the plant, even with good care, ceases to bloom. It is recommended to grow a bush for no more than 4-5 years, after which it is better to replace the plant with a young one. You can read more about caring for hydrangeas at home.
It often happens that a gardener buys a flowering hydrangea in a container, plants it in the ground - and it dries out, the flowers wither. Or after wintering, the hydrangea does not bloom - neither in the first, nor in the second, nor in the third year. Why is the hydrangea not blooming? How can you help the plant? Let's figure it out.
Why hydrangea does not bloom: typical mistakes of gardeners
Most of all, there are problems with large-leaved hydrangea (garden, marcophila, large-leaved), since not all varieties of this delicate plant are adapted to our conditions. Large-leaved hydrangea will be discussed.
Freezing buds on hydrangeas
Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the current year, the buds are laid on the tops of the shoots in the fall. If you cover the hydrangea too late, or open it too early, the buds will freeze and the hydrangea will not bloom. What can (and should) be done? Cover hydrangea for the winter. The leaves remaining on the bush are cut off, the bush itself is pulled together with a tourniquet, wrapped with covering material and film. Mulch is poured around the bush - dry leaves, straw. With the advent of frost, the hydrangea is bent to the ground, fixed with staples, covered with spruce branches. In the spring, the hydrangea is opened gradually, finally ridding it of shelter with the departure of night frosts, that is, until the beginning of summer.
Incorrect hydrangea pruning
If you shredded the shoots of a large-leaved hydrangea in spring or autumn, is it any wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom. We remind you once again - hydrangea blooms on the shoots of last year, in the upper part of the shoots.
Incorrect feeding of hydrangeas
If the hydrangea is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, the plant may not have time to become stiff by the arrival of frost, and, again, will not survive the winter. Therefore, to feed hydrangeas, like most garden plants, remember one simple rule: in late spring and early summer we apply nitrogen fertilizers (for green growth), in summer - potassium-phosphorus top dressing (to maintain flowering), at the end of summer - phosphate fertilizers ( to help the hydrangeas overwinter, preserving the shoot buds for flowering next year).
Problems with growth and acclimatization of the root system
First of all, this is the problem of large-leaved hydrangeas, which were planted from containers in open ground. It often turns out that the sellers of hydrangeas feed the plant with top dressing to give it a lush flowering, organizing drip irrigation. Such a hydrangea has a poorly developed root system - it was not used to getting its own food with its roots, but got everything prepared with fertilizers, and on special soil. And when you plant it in your garden, a spoiled plant is not able to absorb nutrients with its weak roots, and dies before our eyes. Without emergency measures, such a hydrangea will not only not bloom - it may even disappear altogether. 
What to do in this case? Correct the "disservice" of sellers and gradually wean the hydrangea from bait. First, container blooming hydrangeas no need to cut the roots, as is often advised, no need to soak them or shake off the substrate. The plant already spends a lot of energy on flowering, and under such conditions, the development of the hydrangea root system will no longer be extended. Wither away.
Secondly, for the first two months, still feed, gradually reducing the dose.
Thirdly, in preparing landing pit for hydrangeas, make sure that the place will be shaded at noon, otherwise the garden hydrangea may not tolerate the heat, and even heavy watering will not help. In the pit, you need to add a mixture of soil from your garden with a nutrient substrate from a container of hydrangeas, and in an area of \u200b\u200bat least 20 cm from the hydrangea roots. Thus, you will help the hydrangea adapt to new conditions.
Hydrangea variety is not suitable for climatic conditions
Large-leaved hydrangeas have recently begun to be planted in open ground in our area, new varieties appear all the time, which are praised and convinced that there are no problems with care. And then buyers, especially from the northern regions of the country, cannot understand why the hydrangea does not bloom. It is sad, but even if all agrotechnical practices are followed, greenhouse hydrangea seedlings do not always have time to lay buds for the next year during the warm season (if the summer is short). The result is a gorgeous green bush but the hydrangea does not bloom.
Don't rush the hydrangea - let it develop a strong root system that could feed the color. In paniculate hydrangeas, this period takes about 6 years. In addition, hydrangea can bloom simply because of insufficient watering, an unfortunate place, heavy soils, diseases and pests. Just carefully study the rules for caring for hydrangeas, choose a non-capricious variety (if you are a beginner) - and you will definitely succeed!
