How to properly cover roses for the winter - advice from experienced flower growers: how to do it - methods, materials, timing and methods. Shelter of roses for the winter How to shelter hybrid tea roses for the winter
Whoever breeds roses in his dacha or backyard, he knows for sure that this capricious beauty, sung by Antoine de Saint Exupery in The Little Prince, really requires regular care that matches the season. The stage of preparing rose bushes for winter, especially in regions with a harsh frosty climate, is an important task for both beginners and experienced flower growers. And there are no trifles in this.
Everything is important here: at what time, with what and how to cover the bushes of an adult rose, how and with what to feed these ornamental plants so that they do not freeze and get wet during the winter and the protracted spring, but are successfully reborn to your joy. Long-standing floricultural experience has developed quite clear and useful measures, which this article will introduce you to.
It is very important for beginner gardeners in this matter not to overdo it and not to play it safe: do not rush at full speed at the first slight frost to quickly cover roses. Such panic zeal can cause them direct harm, if not death. Translating rose bushes into winter vegetation mode must be skillful in order to get the best result.
Oddly enough, it sounds, but you need to start preparing the rose for winter in hot July according to the principle: “Prepare the sleigh in the summer.” In fact, this is due to the regime of their feeding this month only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.
Should end last mineral top dressing potassium magnesia, containing potassium, which is responsible for the development of the root system and the formation of wood of skeletal branches, which, accordingly, prepare all shoots for the winter cold. In turn, magnesium helps to lay leaf and flower buds, as well as shoots for the successful vegetation of beautiful next year's rose bushes.
Removing excess foliage
This seemingly superfluous artificial measure, firstly, is determined by the need to prepare the plants for a state of seasonal dormancy. Secondly, it is a sanitary measure against the appearance in the mass of not completely fallen leaves of a favorable rotten environment for rot and the development of harmful microbes and fungi. Thirdly, in the autumn crown of the rose there are already many leaves damaged by black spot or other infections.
By cutting off excess and defective leaves, we prevent future seasonal problems associated with common rose diseases, and we make the wintering process under cover safe and successful. Cut leaves should be disposed of by burning, preventing the spread of spores, germs and viruses in the next season or significantly reducing their impact.
It is important to know! In no case should the extra leaves be cut off, which leads to injury to future buds and shoots, but cut off with a clean and very sharp secateurs or scissors, for convenience, putting them in the trash immediately. Be sure to cut off the underdeveloped inflorescences and fruits, thereby excluding their decay under cover.
If you have several bushes, and among them are climbing ones or a whole rose garden, then such a measure of preparation becomes too burdensome and almost impossible. Here it is important to distribute forces and not to postpone pruning of leaves for one run, since September, dosed this sanitary pruning. If it is not possible to cut off all the leaves in full under the conditions of your rose garden, then you should first of all limit yourself to cutting out defective or diseased leaves. Those leaves that you do not have time to cut, spray with Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron vitriol, as well as fungicide "Maxim". Treat the soil around the bushes with ash.
If the varietal affiliation of rose bushes allows you to bend their branches to the ground, excluding upright hybrid tea varieties, then the pruning option loses its relevance. Such specimens are cut at least 50 centimeters in order to make it possible to hide them.
Before sheltering for the winter, rose bushes are spudded, or rather sprinkled with a mound, so that during this agromer, the root system of the bush is not exposed. It is better to cover with spruce branches on top, but do not use sawdust, which draws and retains excess moisture, which can cause the root neck of the bushes to warm up.
Climbing rose - pruning and bending down
Pruning of such varieties of roses is more appropriate in the spring. Weak and thin shoots should be cut shorter, and strong shoots should be cut to half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascading crown, in which summer period the entire bush will bloom on new shoots, and not just its upper part.
When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to maintain their vegetative power by spring and quickly revive in a lush and flowering crown.
The process of work, and even more so bending down for winter sheltering a climbing rose, is traumatic - they have large, often located thorns. For this reason, your equipment must be reliable from goggles to tight gloves, especially all other clothing.
It may seem to amateurs that bending down a rose bush means laying it completely on the ground. Not everything is so tough - it is enough to bend the entire bush by at least 1 meter. But, it is clear that this is also difficult to do right away due to the density and thickness of the main branches. You will have to accustom the climbing rose to a bent posture even for several weeks.
How to properly bend climbing rose bushes
- Firstly, do not wait for a stable sub-zero air temperature, at which rose branches become brittle to break without support.
- Secondly, for a gradual and gentle bending of the main branches, use a strong cord that is tied with one end to the top of the branches, and the other end to the bottom of the trunk. Initially, pull it up to the possible bending of the branches without a break, and then, even within one day, gradually shortening it by retying it.
- Thirdly, this process can be strengthened by boards laid on a bush, under the weight of which the rose branches bend down to the angle of inclination we need.
Another thing is the young bushes of climbing roses. It is enough to tie her shoots at a height of one meter with a rope and lay them out in a ring around the bush, followed by their fixation, otherwise they will “disperse”.
It is important to know! To avoid damage to the bent branches, you need to tilt them in the direction of the grafting site, as if “along the wool”.
Sufficiently bent bushes to continue the process of winter sheltering should be fixed with arcs of suitable material but plastic is better flexible pipes, which are frost-resistant, suitable for repeated use. Thanks to their flexibility, they can cover the entire protected bush of any size.
Optimal for growing and sheltering for the winter are special support grids that can be hung on special hooks on a wall or on a support pole. Such lattices make it possible to remove them in the fall along with the branches of the bush attached to them and, with precautions for bending the skeletal branches, lay them with the lattice down directly on the soil. First put wooden boards or spruce branches on the soil so that the branches do not touch the ground.
It is important to know that roses of any kind and variety, if possible, will be better bent to the ground, and not cut off.
Rodent protection. Like all plants sheltered for the winter, roses are attacked by rodents fleeing under cover from the cold, where they have a “table and home”. The correct “treat” for them can be burdock thorns, black root, but more reliable is the waterproof poisoned bait “Cyclone”
How and with what to cover roses for the winter?
Finally, the bush is fully prepared for shelter, and all that remains is to wait for dry, cold weather, but not lower than 5 cold degrees C, in order to reduce the humidity of the protected object to a minimum. We emphasize that the indicated temperature is very comfortable for rose bushes, because at it it hardens.
Shelter at warmer degrees can lead, with the advent of seasonal thaws, to an increase in warm humidity and rotting and even death of plants.
Frame shelter roses for the winter
In our time, progress has reached the point that the market will offer you ready-made protective frames for any plants. It is enough to buy in a specialized store or order on the corresponding website with delivery via mail. For those who can and love to do everything with their own hands, there are sure to be available tools to create this simple to manufacture, but very easy to use frame.
It can be made from thin metal-plastic pipe, very flexible and pliable, from which you can make two cross-connected "hairpins" of the required height, install them above the plant. Its four support tubes can be moved apart along the perimeter of the protected bush. It remains to wrap the cloth with an insulating cloth, connect it on the side and tie it on top, dig around the perimeter with earth, lay with objects fixing their weight, better with stones or bricks.
We remind you once again that use as insulation sawdust absolutely impossible!
If the fabric of the shelter does not allow itself to be tied from above, it is better to make the upper shelter in the form of a conical “blotch”, securely fasten it so that the wind does not rip it off and the snow accumulating from above fails. The greenhouse effect under such a frame is created due to the internal isolated air mass.
Ruberoid, polyethylene film and other synthetic modern insulating materials are used for winter sheltering plants in regions with severe frosty winters.
They are able to protect, with proper shelter, even from severe and prolonged frosts, although they also have a dangerous drawback - they collect water condensate due to the greenhouse effect, predisposing to decay, and one cannot delay ventilation through the ends during periods of thaw and in early spring and the gradual emergence of roses from the shelter so that they do not burn themselves in direct sunlight. Even during the first "walks" after opening, roses should be shaded while they adapt.
Winter sheltering roses with spruce branches
An inexpensive and natural means of covering roses for the winter, some use spruce branches, under which a wire frame is also needed, which will become a good remedy and snow retention and protection from its load. Snow is known to be an excellent insulating material.
Recently, non-woven materials based on glued cellulose fibers have been widely used as both winter and greenhouse shelters. It's about about lutrasil or spunbond. Lightweight, translucent to light and to some extent air, these materials come in different densities, thin and thicker.
With careful handling, they can last up to five seasons. As a shelter for roses, you should choose a thick spunbond, folded in two layers.
A valuable quality of a non-woven fabric is its ability not to let moisture in from the outside, and internal vapors freely penetrate outside, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate. The covering device not only breathes, but also does not isolate the plant from the light - in the spring you can immediately open the plants that wintered under it without fear of sunburn.
If necessary, several nearby growing bushes can be covered with non-woven materials at once. It is troublesome and responsible only to fix them in case of sharp winds and heavy snowfalls, but this can be done using the same “pins” from a metal-plastic tube, having previously stitched them with strong twine before covering them so that the non-woven fabric does not fall through and does not tear, touching the cut branches of the bushes roses.
Even if you, our dear reader, are a novice gardener, then these simple rules will help you take real care of your “pink” pets. There is confidence that the coming winter will be a simple step life and growth and will not bring disappointments and mistakes. Good luck!
Not so long ago, the cultivation of roses in the conditions of central Russia, the Urals and even Siberia has become quite grateful. As it turned out, our roses grow beautifully and delight with abundant flowering from year to year. However, of course, as plants are quite thermophilic, they require proper preparation for winter and Shelter for the winter. In this article, we will consider how to properly prepare roses for wintering and How to cover roses for the winter. After all, it is proper preparation And Shelter of roses for the winter are the key to further growth, development and well-being of the "queen of flowers" in your garden.
Before the shelter of roses, which is produced with the onset of stable cold weather, around the end of October - beginning of November, roses must be prepared for wintering.
Preparing roses for winter
- Preparation for the wintering of roses begins in July, because it is from July that nitrogen fertilizers should be excluded from feeding roses. This is done because when nitrogen is received, the plants begin to grow in mass, many young and tender shoots appear, which are undesirable in the second half of summer. Young shoots that appear in September or October instantly turn black at the first frost, rot and are a hotbed of infections and diseases for roses that go into winter. She becomes weakened and may not survive the winter. Therefore, starting from July, roses (as well as most other perennials) should be fertilized only with phosphate and potash fertilizers.
- In mid-September, they make the last top dressing with potassium and magnesium fertilizer (for example, potassium magnesia), which will contribute to a good wintering, as well as good flowering next season.
- Also, from September, you should stop cutting roses for bouquets.
- If at the beginning of summer, the buds of young bushes are removed, and faded flowers are removed from mature ones, preventing the seeds from ripening in order to increase flowering and stimulate the growth of new shoots, now all flowers should be allowed to bloom, and the fruits should ripen so as not to awaken new growth buds .
- In late autumn, the foliage of roses can be removed. This will help to prepare the roses well for winter, but do not do this too early, so as not to awaken the growth buds, do it around the end of September. If you have a lot of roses, and the bushes are large, you can not remove all the foliage, but remove at least diseased leaves so that they do not cause various diseases and infections of the bush during wintering. Inspect the bushes and remove all leaves with various spots, blackening, dry leaves, and then burn them.
- Do the last cleaning of your flower beds with roses, weeding and loosening.
- Before wintering, you can treat roses with fungicide preparations for various rot and diseases (for example, iron or blue vitriol) or sprinkle with ash.
- Now we are preparing the roses directly for shelter. You can do this in two ways. Either the bush is cut to the height of the shelter, or the rose branches are bent to the ground. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. In the first case, the advantages are a reduction in pruning work in the spring, and the disadvantage is that the cut ends of the branches under the pressure of the snow cover can pierce the shelter. In the second case, the disadvantage is a more laborious process, the advantages are the preservation of a larger bush volume and earlier and more abundant flowering.
- If the shoots of roses are very thick and it is problematic to bend them to the ground, they are bent in several stages. First tilt slightly, fix, after a few days fix at a lower distance from the ground and so on until tilted to the ground. To fix roses, you can use specially prepared hairpins, making them from thick wire or from electrodes, more voluminous bushes with a large number of shoots are fixed using bush holders.
- Also, in order to bend down bushes with very hard shoots, you can lightly dig them with a pitchfork, this will not bring much harm to the bush.
- bend spray roses, just like the standard ones, it should be in the direction of the vaccination so as not to break it.
How to cover roses for the winter?
So, we have prepared roses for wintering, and with the onset of stable cold weather in late October - early November, they should be covered. It is traditionally believed that it is time to cover the roses if the temperature on the street during the day begins to hold steadily around -5 degrees. Best for Shelters of roses for the winter use non-woven material - lutrasil. This is such a modern covering material that allows you to keep warm, does not let moisture into the shelter, and at the same time allows plants to breathe. The advantages of this material over others traditional materials for shelter - with a film, for example, obvious. Since the film does not breathe and it is necessary to constantly monitor the roses, especially during thaws, during opening, airing and closing them, lutrasil breathes, allows moisture vapor to escape from their shelters, but does not let drops into it, thus almost eliminating the risk of damping out roses. Also, this material transmits light well and it is easy for roses to get used to the light in the spring after removing the shelter, they will not need to be shaded from the light even in the first days after removing the shelter. The use of non-woven material - lutrasil - allows you to cover the roses early before the rains and open later, with the beginning of bud growth, without fear of dampening. Also, this material allows you to grow in a flower bed with roses and other perennials, since such a winter shelter will not harm their wintering. Thus, it is an indispensable material for sheltering roses, especially for those summer residents who do not have the opportunity to constantly come to the garden. However, even when using such a shelter, dampening is possible if the area is damp enough, ventilation during thaws is still necessary in this case, although not so often.
Some sources also advise covering roses with spruce branches. However, it serves rather not for shelter, but for keeping snow from open blown areas.
Lutrasil is commercially available in various degrees of density; of course, it is worth choosing the most dense one for winter shelter. For reliability, it can be rolled up in two layers.
It is best to cover the rose garden entirely with a large whole piece of non-woven material, since when covering a large area, wintering results will be better than if each bush is covered separately.
Arcs or other holders are installed above the flower garden with bent or cut roses, forming the frame of the shelter so that there is air inside, and everything is already covered from above nonwoven fabric. The edges are pressed down with something heavy: stones, bricks, logs.
I wish you a good winter to your beauties and lush flowering next season!
How to cover climbing roses for the winter 2 ways
The rose is deservedly called the queen of flowers, and its climbing variety is an elegant princess. Their unsuccessful overwintering and, as a result, their death cause particular pity among flower lovers. Climbing roses - very beautiful plant with juicy green leaves and fragrant and delicate buds. It is rare that vertical gardening and decoration of architectural structures do without these flowers. A well-groomed plant will always delight with its aesthetic appearance and pleasant aroma, but for this it is necessary to provide him with the correct, comfortable wintering.
Why is it necessary to cover climbing roses for the winter?
Let's talk about how to cover climbing roses for the winter, so as not to look with pity at a dead plant in early spring. In no case should you rely on the good frost resistance that inexperienced gardeners talk about. Climbing roses are able to withstand temperatures not lower than -3 degrees, a further drop in temperature is very dangerous for them. In addition, thaws that often alternate with frosts also pose a threat to the plant. As soon as the thermometer rises above +3 degrees, sap flow is activated in the stems, the vegetative process begins. A sudden cold snap will cause freezing of the juice, damage to plant tissues, the formation of cracks in the stems and infection with putrefactive organisms. Therefore, they must be covered for the winter, avoiding negligence and disastrous results.
Preparing the plant for shelter winter period
In order for the plant to overwinter well, it needs to provide not only the right shelter, but also organize preparatory process, which should start with the last summer days. Climbing roses stop fertilizing with nitrogen compounds, but continue to apply potassium-phosphorus top dressings. This will allow the shoots to ripen better. The first such top dressing is recommended in August, for the solution you will need:
- potassium sulfate (10 g);
- superphosphate (25 g);
- boric acid (2.5 g);
- 10 liters of water.
The resulting amount of solution is spent on a plot of 4 square meters. The second feeding with such a composition is carried out in the first days of September. At the same time, you need to significantly reduce the watering of roses, do not loosen the soil. You can not cut the buds, so as not to activate the growth of new shoots. If the plant still continues to actively bloom and develop, the vegetation must be stopped by pinching the shoots and bending the stems near the buds themselves.
Before sheltering a climbing rose, you need to remove the petioles and leaves from the lower parts, and remove the lashes from the supports. Then the plant will gently bend down to the surface of the earth under the weight of its own weight. If the plant has wounds or cracks, they can be sprinkled with charcoal or treated with ordinary brilliant green.
Wintering climbing roses: when and how best to cover the plant
To organize a shelter, you must choose dry, warm weather, simply speaking, a fine day. The stems are twisted with a tourniquet or in the shape of an oval, and too thick shoots are gently bent to the ground and pinned. To secure the stems, special wire supports are installed so that they do not touch the soil surface. To warm the ground, you can put dry leaves, and to protect against field mice, put two or three tablets of naphthalene.
On top of the stacked shoots of roses, a wooden gable roof is installed. To cover the entire structure, a polyethylene film of such dimensions is used so that it can cover both the side parts and the ends. Before the onset of frost at 3 degrees, the end parts of the protective structure must be open. This will be a natural hardening for lashes. Then the film is stretched completely, after which the ingress of moisture under the shelter stops.
Such a reliable shelter will allow you to save roses until the onset of the first spring days. They are not afraid very coldy and snowy winter, because under this structure the temperature will not fall below 8 degrees below zero. You can see a layer of frost on the stems, you do not need to remove it. So the plant is protected from sudden thawing during thaws. If, however, the warming is prolonged, it is recommended to slightly open the ends of the structure so that the kidneys do not rot. If the winter is relatively warm and snowy, they can be left open permanently.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter in a simpler way?
Gardeners like to use another way to shelter a rose, less laborious. After the preparation, the lashes are laid on the ground on a layer of dry leaves or needles, sprinkled on top with such another such layer, and then covered with roofing felt and a piece of polyethylene. This method may not be suitable for areas where winters are too snowy. Under the weight of snow, the structure can press against the ground, and the plant will not have enough air. Thus, the construction of the frame is the most reliable and best way shelters of both large and small bushes of climbing roses.
When the first warm days come, the shelter cannot be removed. For climbing roses, temperature changes in early spring, as well as the sun's rays, can be dangerous. First, the ends of the structure are opened, and when the soil completely thaws, the entire frame is removed. So the plant will gradually begin to get used to the sunny color and will not get burned.
Climbing roses are undoubtedly one of the most whimsical and demanding plants. But such attention to it will be rewarded: roses will delight you with chic and abundant flowering!
Ludmila www. rasteniya-drugsvennie. en
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When to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region and how
Hilling and pruning rose bushes are also elements of preparing the plant for wintering. At the same time, opinions about how it is right and when it is best to carry out the procedures are also different. This largely depends on the growing conditions of the rose bush. So, for example, in regions with warm soil, gardeners prefer to loosen the ground by 5-10 cm instead of hilling. This allows the bush to breathe better, and hilling, on the contrary, leads to debate. As for the Moscow region, both stages take place.
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2.1 Hilling the rose bush
The hilling process is necessary for warming the roots and new ground shoots. Hilling also prevents the appearance of cracks on the stems. Before working directly with the soil, the stems and the ground around the roots are carefully sprayed with a solution. Bordeaux liquid(3%) and water. Also, the bush can be treated with iron sulfate (5%). The purpose of such an event is to prevent infections and fungi.
Hilling a rose bush
After the earth and branches dry out, you can do the hilling itself. The weather for this must be chosen exceptionally dry. Hilling height for roses of any variety is 20-30 cm. If the soil in the root area is hard, it must be fluffed to a depth of 2-5 cm. After that, the earth is carefully raked under the stems. Instead of regular earth, gardeners also make mounds of compost or dry peat. This provides additional nourishment to the plant.
After the mound is made, the ground around the rose is covered with a film before the onset of frost. This prevents the soil from getting wet, which means it is less susceptible to frost.
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2.2 Pruning roses for the winter
Pruning is carried out so that the extra and unripe parts do not pull nutrients from the main branches. In addition, crown aeration and access to light for young shoots are increased. After such a procedure, the overwintered bush develops much faster and more evenly.
First of all, when pruning, unripened new shoots are removed, which did not have time to gain strength by winter. Such parts of the bush will not have time to ripen anyway. And in order to save nutrients they are cut off. As for others important points procedure, the following tips should be taken into account:
The optimal period for work is the end of October. But, it is worth remembering that the listed rules are universal for each variety. But, also each variety has its own moments. So hybrid and tea roses feel best if the stems are cut to a level of 50-60 cm above the ground. In polyanthus roses, unripened shoots must be cut off. They are cut to the very root. Also, the plant is cleared of damaged or diseased parts.
Preparing roses for winter autumn pruning sheltering roses Planting roses in autumn
Marina, what kind of rose do you have? What type and variety? In what form do you have it - a cutting, a seedling with open roots or closed roots, container? Have you already purchased a rose or are you just going to?
Before winter, only those varieties of roses that are adapted to local conditions are planted. If your rose was brought in a container from a country with a milder climate than ours, then during the autumn planting it most likely will not survive, no matter how you cover it.
If a seedling with roots is intended for planting, and not a stalk, then this should be planted now - Autumn planting is done from mid-September and usually until mid-October.. It is important to choose the moment so that the rose has time to take root, and a further drop in temperature would prevent it from starting to grow (that is, the plant would “understand” that it was necessary to prepare for wintering). If you guess with the time of planting, then roses planted in autumn even take root much more successfully than those planted in spring.
Now it’s better to hurry up, the rose must take root before frost, otherwise it will not overwinter. Young roots usually form 10-12 days after planting, before the onset of frost, they must have time to harden and harden.
For planting, you need a dug hole measuring 40x40x40 cm. spill it well with water, add 2-3 shovels of earth mixed with humus to it. If you have a seedling with a closed root system, then you need to dig a hole to the size of an earthen coma (4-6 cm more). Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water for a day before planting, then cut too long roots leaving 20-30 cm.
Shoots should also be cut. Only 2-3 of the strongest shoots are left, shortening them so that 2-3 dormant buds remain on each. The remaining shoots are cut under the base.
The seedling prepared for planting is lowered into the hole, the roots are straightened around the poured mound of earth with humus. Then they fall asleep with earth, tamping it well. Grafted roses are deepened so that the place of budding is 2-3 cm below the surface. Own-rooted roses can be planted below the level of root formation - then they grow new additional roots.
After planting, the seedling is well watered.(water temperature 16-18°С), and then sprinkled with earth, leaving only the upper part of the shoots outside. For hilling, the earth is not raked from under the roots, but a new one is added. In the spring, after removing the shelter, you will need to unwind the bush.
cover roses, planted with seedlings before winter, you need the same as ordinary ones already growing in your garden. After the first night frosts come and freeze upper layer soil, on the ground with which the roses were piled, they put spruce branches, then dry leaves or shavings are poured with a layer of 15-20 cm, and then another layer of spruce branches. Then, plastic or metal arcs 40-50 cm high are installed above the roses, they are covered with a layer of wrapping paper (kraft paper), and then with a film, pressing its edges with stones. While the temperature is above minus 10 ° C, the film is pressed loosely, leaving slits for ventilation. In the spring, the film is slightly opened more to avoid debate. Shelter is finally removed when the threat of frost has passed.
This method is called air-dry, because there is air space between the shelter and the roses. There is another way, when lustrasil or spunbond is spread over the spruce branches, this method is considered less reliable in severe frosts, but if it is not possible to regularly ventilate the greenhouse, you should use it.
Pruning roses for the winter is a must. This also applies to roses already growing in the ground and newly planted seedlings. Cut off unripened shoots, otherwise these shoots will rot under cover and infect the plant with a fungus. Naturally cut off and all the leaves, buds. Only lignified shoots should remain, with dormant buds. At the same time, these abandoned shoots are also shortened - in climbing large-flowered roses by a third of the length, in small-flowered climbing roses they are not cut, and in other types of roses, the shoots are cut to half the length. All plant debris should be destroyed (do not leave under the bush).
If you bought a seedling with fresh, just hatched, awakened buds, then it is better not to plant this one. It should be tried to save until spring. An apartment, of course, is not the best place, but if it is possible to arrange it for the winter on a glazed balcony or in an annex where the temperature does not drop below zero, then it will winter normally, and in the spring it will be necessary to land it in the garden. You can also arrange seedlings for the winter in the "prikop" - roses are buried in a trench. If you dare to plant, then you first need to let the seedling take root, and then cut off all the young shoots, then cover as usual.
If you plant a rose from a cutting, donated by one of the acquaintances who cut their roses in the fall, then you can try to plant it like that. A hole is dug 50 cm deep, 2/3 filled with freshly cut grass, and topped up with peat and compost. All this is spilled with water. Cuttings are stuck into this prepared soil mixture. You can root cuttings this way now and until the end of October. For the winter, a greenhouse is built over them according to the method described above. In the spring, the greenhouse is opened for ventilation, and then removed when the risk of returning frosts disappears. Cuttings covered in this way successfully winter, and in the spring they begin to grow.
Finally, we add that if you have not bought it yet planting material, but just thinking, and at the same time you are a beginner, as for caring for roses, then postpone your purchase until spring and plant roses in the spring. The fact is that if you have never covered roses for the winter, it is likely that when doing this for the first time, you will make some mistake - and the roses planted in the fall will die.
There is an opinion that it is better for beginners to plant roses in the spring, and already experienced rose growers can do this in the fall., yes, they themselves usually like it much more autumn plantings roses.
Dear readers, you can ask us your question about flowers on the page “ Your questions”, we will try to answer it and publish the answer on the pages of our website.
How roses are covered for the winter at the end of autumn
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Leaves and unripened shoots are cut off, all plant cuttings are removed from under the bush. |
They spud the bush with earth, adding it additionally, and not raking it. |
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They cover the bush with spruce branches, leaves, and then again with spruce branches. |
Lutrasil is placed on top of the spruce branches or a micro-greenhouse is arranged. |
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Sometimes they are limited only to spruce branches, without covering anything additional on top. For resistant varieties of roses, this is quite enough if the winters in your area are snowy enough. |
No, not all. Species and old garden roses (with a few exceptions: Chinese, Bourbon, tea) even in the most severe winters do not need shelter.
This special winter hardiness of them is explained very simply: they bloom, as a rule, once, finish their growth early, and their wood has time to mature well and prepare for winter.
Modern garden roses were created specifically to delight us with their continuous flowering from early summer to late autumn. And the "eternal" flowering is accompanied by a long growth of shoots, which in middle lane do not have time to ripen in winter.
Therefore, almost all modern roses need shelter. And the most winter-hardy of them - shrubs (shrabs) - too. The only exception among modern shrub roses is a group of wrinkled rose hybrids: they also bloom early, and their re-flowering is not very plentiful.
What determines how successfully roses overwinter?
Firstly, from the winter hardiness of a particular variety. Winter hardiness of varieties within the same garden group is different. Secondly, on the state of the plant and its readiness for winter. Third, the weather. And, finally, from the ways of shelter. It is clear that not all of these factors are subject to human control.
Is it possible to prepare roses for winter?
We cannot influence the weather, but we can prepare the roses as much as possible for the upcoming winter trials. There are fairly simple agricultural practices that make rose shoots ripen better.
As you know, nitrogen promotes the formation of a vegetative mass and delays the growth period. Therefore, from the second half of summer, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is excluded. In August and early autumn, roses are fed only with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, which stop growth, promote the maturation of wood and increase plant resistance to cold.
Another effective reception- pinching growing shoots in early autumn. Due to the removal of the growth point, the growth of the shoot in length stops, and useful substances are deposited in the kidneys and tissues.
Watering and loosening are also reduced to a minimum, and faded flowers are not cut off - for the same reason, so as not to stimulate further growth shoots.
From October 15 to October 20, the leaves are gradually cut off - first on the lower, and then on the remaining branches, removing unripened shoots. The plant is deprived of natural respiration and the ability to feed through the leaves and is forced to prepare for winter.
Can the plant be hardened off?
The stability of roses, as we have already said, largely depends on their condition at the time of the onset of frost. It is clear that a strong, healthy and hardened plant will better endure both sudden changes in temperature and cold.
Rose bushes, which had good healthy foliage (not affected by insects and diseases) in summer and early autumn, accumulate a large supply of carbohydrates, and this contributes to their successful wintering. Excessive cutting of flowers with long leafy shoots weakens plants.
Roses growing in the shade also winter worse, since with a lack of lighting they accumulate less carbohydrates. A slight decrease in temperature (slightly above 0 °C) in the middle of autumn, on the contrary, contributes to its accumulation.
By the way, the main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil, etc. serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below - 4-5 degrees. C Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small cover of snow, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in central Russia without any additional care.
With further cooling (-2-8 ° C), the cells in the tissues of the plant are dehydrated, and carbohydrates are converted into sugars and fats - substances that protect plants from frost. That's why you can't cover roses too early - plants must go through all the natural processes, that is, finish growth in a timely manner and go into a dormant state.
But, unfortunately, hardening is a reversible process. Acquired resistance to frost may be lost again if, after a significant drop in temperature, a long warm and humid autumn suddenly sets in. Roses will start to grow and use up the accumulated reserves of carbohydrates, and if frosts hit hard after that, it will be difficult for plants to survive such drops.
Is it necessary to prune roses before wintering?
Target autumn pruning- prepare the bush for shelter. Therefore, single-flowering park roses and wrinkled autumn rose hybrids are not pruned, their shoots are not bent to the ground (with a few exceptions, for example, the Rugelda variety), since they do not require shelter.
Shoots of hybrid tea, floribunda, polyanthus, miniature roses are cut to half their length. Re-blooming shrub roses, climbing large-flowered roses during the growing season can reach a height of 1.5 m or more. At the end of October, they are cut by a third. Climbing small-flowered roses are not pruned, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growing point.
If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. under cover high humidity can cause rotting not only of the leaves, but also of the shoots.
Leaves rotted over the winter become disease spreaders. To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and the plants should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Unripe, diseased and weak shoots will not tolerate low temperatures and can cause the death of the whole plant. They are removed to the ground.
How to properly cover roses?
Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shoots of scrubs and climbing roses must be bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high is poured to the base of the bush. hybrid roses and floribunda, as a result, are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
True, you should not rush with hilling roses for the winter either. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
Hilling is the best way to protect the root system. But - attention - the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but poured (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage.
When the earth freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses are completely covered. It is best to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
More reliable way shelter roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard.
Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10 ° C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from the penetration of excess moisture, and the air layer protects the plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters.
But only those who visit their site constantly or arrive in early spring can use it: with an air-dry shelter in March, roses need to be periodically ventilated.
How to cover standard roses?
About shelter standard roses You need to take care even when they land. That is, immediately determine in which direction they can be bent so that the stem does not lie, for example, on the track. In order not to break the trunk, the bend at its base should be on the side opposite to the slope (Fig. 1).
At the stem, the crown is pre-cut (in accordance with its belonging to the garden group), then the plant is dug up on one side, bent to the ground and the root is spud (Fig. 2). Pinned if necessary.
Spruce branches are laid under the trunk crown, go make a litter of coarse sand, and another layer of spruce branches is laid on top, fixing it with a film or non-woven material.
For greater reliability, the top can be lightly sprinkled with earth. It is impossible to lay the crown of the bole below the soil level, since water will accumulate in the lowland during thaws or in spring, the shoots will get wet and rot.
Pay attention to this:
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