Long root weed remover. Making devices for planting and weeding potatoes with your own hands. Plant plants in even rows
best method getting rid of weeds remains manual weeding. Removing plants with strong rhizomes will be a less tedious task when using a hand-made hand-made rooter.
Device and materials. basis homemade tool serves as a tubular body, equipped with a cutting part in the form of a trough with pointed edges. A wooden handle is inserted from the back of the device, fixed with a screw through a hole in the tube.
Manual weed remover is made from pruning metal pipe with a diameter of 25–40 mm. For the workpiece, the working cylinder from worn out is optimally suited telescopic rack car - the product has thin walls made of durable steel. For the handle, use a piece of the handle or cut it out of a birch chock.
It will take
Required tools:- -Bulgarian, cutting disc;
- - Drill, drill;
- -Files;
- - Emery skin;
- - Measuring square;
- -Screwdriver;
- -Plane.
How to make a weed cutter
1) The steel tube is cut to length and marked according to the drawing.
2) The workpiece is fixed and, first, two longitudinal cuts are made with a grinder, then the excess part of the metal is removed with a transverse inclined cut.
3) Cut the end of the gutter at an angle of 35°, remove the burrs with a flat file.
4) Sharpen working parts with inside, a semi-circular file is used to process the lower edge.
5) Drill a hole for a self-tapping screw and sand the product sandpaper.
6) The body of the stump is mounted on a handle made of wood and the fixing screw is screwed in.
If desired, the metal part is primed and painted, and wooden handle varnished. The use of a manual grinder. Homemade fixture allows you to remove weeds without destroying the nearby earth layers and leaving the root systems of the grown plants intact. To remove weeds, the rooter is stuck by hand near the root and loosens the soil around the weed, slightly turning the tool away from "yourself" and towards "yourself".
Slightly lifting the plant with soil with a rooter, cut the rhizome and remove it from the ground with a hand.
The use of the considered device for removing weeds facilitates horticultural work, allows weeding to be carried out faster and better.
Gardeners and gardeners are well aware of how tedious weed control is in the area. Weeding them out with your own hands, you can not achieve a lasting effect. The remnants of the roots quickly give new shoots, and the recently removed weed again begins to run amok on fertile soil. In such a situation, garden tools for weed removal come to the rescue, which pulls out weeds along with the root and does not damage the surrounding soil. There are several types of weeding tools worth considering.
Its second name is Sapa. This is the most common tool in the gardener's arsenal. In addition to the fact that the chopper allows you to quickly weed the beds, it also loosens the earth, spuds and breaks earthen clods. The working surface of the Sapa has 3 forms. She happens:
- rectangular;
- triangular;
- trapezoidal.
According to gardeners and gardeners, the most convenient to work with is a trapezoidal chopper. It will help to pull out even the most powerful weeds, such as burdock, along with the root.
When choosing this tool for weeding, you need to look at what metal the working part is made of and how convenient the inventory fits in your hand. The length of the handle should not be too small or vice versa too long.
Rake against weeds
A weed rake is a special tool that can be used to weed out very long and deep rooted weeds. The working part of the device is steel with long teeth, which can enter the soil well and thereby weed out the roots. Further, it is enough just to pull the rake out of the ground, and the weed will remain between the teeth.
With the help of a rake, it is very easy to keep your lawn in order. Even a child can easily use them. There is nothing complicated in using the tool. The working part must be made of quality metal, as otherwise it will quickly deform, bending under pressure during use.
Cultivator-root remover
With this rooted weed remover, you can easily clear your yard of weeds. It is convenient to use such manual cultivator and in the presence of low, strongly thickened shrubs, which are prone to constant germination after the removal of the ground part. He will cope with strong rod-shaped roots.
The shape of the tool is thoughtful, and therefore, when using it, it is very easy to pull out the weed. Weeding will work even in difficult areas, such as areas around trees.
V-shaped root remover
Use a device for extracting weeds with a highly developed root system. Other inventory is not always able to perform such a difficult task. The only disadvantage is that the work takes a lot of time, since each weed must be removed individually. At the same time, all actions are easy to carry out, and you can cope with them even without proper experience and skill.
If garden weeding is needed small plot, then the fork perfect option. The curved shape of the tool when pressed helps to pull out the root of the plant with maximum force, so it is easy to remove it. The device is suitable for plants with branched roots. This garden tool simultaneously with weeding also loosens the soil. The compact size of the fork and its efficiency have made this weeding device especially popular.
Fokine flat cutter
A tool for weeding beds, which is able to qualitatively and easily remove all small weeds. It penetrates well into the soil to a depth of 5 cm and qualitatively pulls out all the weeds. Its use helps to avoid tedious manual weeding of the garden. The working part of the flat cutter is stretched in the ground in the same way as a scythe, and then all the weeds pulled out in this way are collected by hand. Despite the simplicity of the device, it proved to be highly effective.
homemade device to remove weeds
To make a tool for weeding the garden with your own hands, you need to take a strong, unnecessary shovel and, cutting off the metal on the sides, narrow the working canvas. The edges are sharpened. The root remover obtained in this way perfectly deepens into the soil and completely extracts even rod-shaped roots.
Using different equipment for weed control, you will be able to put things in order on your site much faster than with manual weeding. Also, devices will help to remove weeds completely, without leaving their roots, which will soon give new sprouts. All this indicates the need to acquire a weeding tool.
The carrot has just risen, and the weeds are already striving to flood the entire garden? Time to weed! With what? You can no longer walk among the crops with a rake or a big hoe.
What tool will be the most convenient? It depends on what kind of weeds you have to deal with.
1. Hand chopper with a solid blade (rectangular or heart-shaped). Classic variant. It is best suited for cutting annual weeds, both between rows of vegetables and on the sides of the beds. Fast and efficient. But if you have made your way to gout, wheatgrass or thistle, it will only make it worse by “crushing” their rhizomes into pieces, each of which will sprout.
2. Hoe with teeth or "scratch". She is just capable of defeating the wheatgrass. It also loosens the soil very well. But only if it is convenient for her to work: the width of the working part and the number of teeth fit your row spacing, and the teeth easily stick into your soil. Not every tool is able to meet these conditions. Choose the strongest and sharpest. Flimsy metal or plastic "scratches" are only good for commercials.
3. Mini-flat cutter with a working part in the form of a curved strip. It is convenient for its versatility: it can both cut weeds with a plane and pull them out with a sharp end, and at the same time loosen the ground deeply. You just have to turn the tool in your hand. But for this, its handle must be either rectangular in cross section, or have a non-slip coating, and the blade must be sharpened.
4. Scoop. It will help you get the most stubborn dandelion out of the garden. And at the same time - plant seedlings, transplant densely sprouted beets to a place freed from radishes ... but you never know what else. You can't do without an owl. And with some skill, it can be even more convenient to work with them on weeding than with a chopper. Especially if the scoop is narrow, well balanced in weight and has a fairly sharp edge.
5. "Fork". A tool for the real tidy. If your garden is not too large, but you are annoyed by the sight of weeds, albeit cut or pulled out, but remaining in the garden, and you certainly want to put every blade of grass in a bucket, a garden fork will be the best helper. You dig up the weed with a fork, and pull it out with the other hand. Not a single one will leave - neither with a creeping rhizome, nor with a taproot, nor with fibrous. Unlike a scoop, a fork picks up weeds, and does not cut.
In order not to lose the tool in the garden or accidentally throw it out with weeds in compost heap- when choosing a model, pay attention not only to its working part, but also to the handle. The brighter it is, the better. And for old, dirty or comfortable, but dull choppers, simply decorate the ends of the handles with bright strips of electrical tape or tie bright (even reflective) ribbons to them.Hello dear blog readers. Summer is a busy time for a summer resident. Watering plants, top dressing, pest and disease control are required constantly, but these works are not comparable in difficulty and time to weed removal. Apply various ways combat them, but the most reliable, having a long-term effect - mechanical. In order for the work not to be too tiring, to bring results, you need a reliable garden tool for removing weeds.
There is still a debate about whether it is necessary to weed the beds. Some assure and prove with their experience that the best harvest is obtained on unweeded beds. Others argue that after weeding, it is immediately noticeable how vegetables grow. Which side is the truth on?
Crops and seedlings of greens and vegetables will quickly be drowned out by more powerful weeds. Weeding is a laborious process, it is especially difficult to uproot plantain, clover, wheatgrass, dandelion. The smallest particles of roots left in the ground cause a new plant to multiply.
Therefore, many gardeners do not weed weeds, tearing them out of the ground with the roots, but simply cut them off. They do this constantly so that the height does not exceed 5 cm and, of course, so that they do not bloom and form seeds.
You can cut weeds above the ground with a scythe or trimmer. Mowed weeds grow back quickly, so it is necessary to repeat the operation often. If weeds are not taken out, but left in the aisles in the garden, the formed layer of mulch will slow down the growth of weeds.
If the site is heavily overgrown with weeds with a powerful root, use the following method. First cut the area with a trimmer, then walk with a hoe. Finish the area with a flat cutter.
As you can see, it is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of weeding or not weeding. It all depends on the type of weeds, their age. Weed removal should be approached in each case individually, choosing the right technology and a set of tools.
How to weed
To make weeding easier, follow these proven tips:
- Don't put off weed control. When they are young and not yet strong, you can remove them without applying special efforts. If you wait for the weeds to bloom and form seeds, next year you will have more work: there will be even more of them.
- In heavily overgrown areas, the fight against them should begin in the fall. When digging, use a pitchfork and do not turn over the layers of earth. Winter frosts will destroy the root system of weeds.
- Perennial weeds require a special approach. You should not pull them out of the ground with a root: numerous scraps remain, on which growth points awaken, the weed becomes thicker. It is necessary to cut them below the point of growth or mow the part of the plant above the ground. In this case, the weed will not begin to branch, as it usually does, but the growth of the cut stem will resume.
- Start weeding the area before the seedlings sprout useful plants. The problem is not to damage crops that haven't sprouted yet. Sow them strictly in rows, mark the crops with pegs. Weeds begin to grow a little faster than cultivated plants. Do not wait for them to appear, but go through the weed between the marked rows, destroying the sprouts of weeds underground.
Weeding tool requirements
The right set of equipment will facilitate the work of the gardener. To work on garden plot use weeders, various hoes, flat cutters. When choosing a tool, pay attention to the handle, it must be of sufficient length so that the worker does not bend over.
A tool whose handle is well covered by the hand is convenient for work. Here the thickness, the material from which it is made is important. The handle of the tool should fit comfortably in the person's hand.
Wooden handles should be well sanded, free of burrs and knots that will lead to blisters on the hands. Wood for handles is chosen from soft breeds, it is light in weight. Handles made of oak, beech are strong, but very heavy.
The working surface of the tool should be at an angle that provides the most efficient operation and requires the least effort. It is good when the design of a garden tool provides for a change in the angle of the working body. When buying a tool, be sure to hold it in your hands, try on the length of the handle, how comfortable it is in your hand, check the angle of the working surface. Choose a tool whose angle of inclination can be changed.
When you make working tools for weeding with your own hands, the required angle of inclination can be set immediately by trying on the tool for yourself. You can make a simple revision that will allow you to adjust the inventory.
Homemade fixtures
From a worn-out garden tool and others available materials easy to do simple fixtures which will facilitate the fight against weeds:
- Weeder. It is easily made from a board 25-30 cm long and 8 cm wide. Treat the tree with a planer, round the corners along the length, sand. Make sure that the tool fits comfortably in your hand. In order not to bend down during work, you can firmly attach a comfortable handle. Drive a few nails into the board. Weeder is useful for removing weeds that have not yet sprouted.
- The ripper will come from an old garden pitchfork. The teeth are cut to 10 cm in length, straightened and sharpened. Insert a long handle to work without bending down.
- A device for digging up weeds with a root can be made from a spade. The canvas is cut from the top on both sides, narrowing down. It is convenient to cut the rhizomes of bushes with such a tool.
- A hoe is needed after every watering and rain to loosen the soil and cut weeds at the same time. A lightweight hoe is useful for working in wet ground. To do this, a rectangular hole is cut out in the working plane. The earth will not stick, but will pass through it.
- The manual cultivator is made of durable sheet metal. Cut out 4 strips 15 cm long, 3 cm wide. They are bent at a right angle, welded to the bar. WITH reverse side the handle is attached, the working part is sharpened. This light cultivator makes weeding and loosening the soil, while removing weeds.
Purchased Tools
A lot of effort and time of the gardener goes to the removal of weeds. It is important to have a set quality tools for weeding. Let's get acquainted with some of the most used industrial devices:
- The root remover is used to pull out long taproots, like sorrel, dandelion, plantain. The classic version of the device is a two-pronged fork. She has flat wide teeth and a gap between them. Another version of the root remover has a V-shaped blade attached to a long handle. The tool will help remove most of the root, but it will not be possible to completely pull it out.
- A garden fork is indispensable for removing weeds with a developed root system: raspberries, buttercups. Modification with teeth bent at 45° allows loosening the soil shallowly and removing loose weeds.
- Sapatyapka is a hybrid of a pickaxe and a shovel. It is convenient to remove weeds, loosen row-spacings, hill up, work in hard-to-reach places. The working part is made of high-quality metal, the shape can be rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. The handles are plastic or wooden.
- The combined hoe consists of two tools: glanders and a rake. The working part has a steel blade at one end, and several teeth at the other. It is convenient to work with such a tool between closely growing plants, while simultaneously removing and collecting weeds.
- It is convenient to use Fokin's flat cutter to remove weeds, deepening 2-3 cm into the ground. They work like an oblique, stretching along the surface underground.
Garden tools
In 1977, the German-Swedish company Gardena received a patent for the unique Gardena Combisystem technology. Among all garden tools offered, the system is extremely competitive. Combisystem allows you to use Gardena fixtures with one handle, which is selected taking into account the individual characteristics of the buyer.
As you can see, there are many tools and devices for weed removal. Not all of them are presented in the article. Many craftsmen make tools with their own hands, the industry also offers a variety of gardening garden tools. It's not so much what set of tools you will have, but how competently you will use it.
I wish you good luck in the hard work of a gardener. Share the link to the article with your colleagues and friends.
Goodbye, see you again.
With the beginning of the spring season, the owners garden plots there are many worries. It's time to prepare a place for. Then, in order to obtain rich harvests, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings or seeds, and then carefully care for the plants during the summer.
For all these processes, certain tools are used that can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently. Some of them are very unusual, and are the fruits of creative approach experienced gardeners to difficult work on the ground. How you can make non-standard, convenient and effective garden tools with your own hands, in order to greatly facilitate the cultivation of the land, will be discussed in this publication.
As you know, almost all garden equipment is made of metal, so a number of tools and, of course, the ability to use them will be required for work. If there are no problems with this issue, it remains only to prepare them for work. For those who are just starting their journey self-manufacturing metal products, it makes sense to present a list of the minimum required:
- Usually, every economic owner of a private house has this device, since there are always a lot of works on the site for which it is necessary.
- Before welding metal parts it is necessary to clean their edges, and after the work is done, remove the remaining slag. For these processes, hard steel brushes are used, which can be manual or in the form of attachments for a drill or grinder.
- A slag hammer will be required to remove slag from the seam.
- Chisels, stamps and a hammer are used to brand seams and cut out defective places, as well as to remove frozen metal splashes.
- Templates, ruler, square, scriber, tape measure, as well as other measuring tools are used in assembly operations, in the preparation of parts future design to welding.
- A grinder-grinder with circles for metal will be needed for cutting parts. It is also needed for final finishing - cleaning seams, sharpening cutting planes.
- Personal protection kit. This is a welding mask, gloves and a welder's suit, instead of which clothes made of dense natural fabric can be used.
- Metal table or goats for welding.
Welding operations require a certain amount of experience
The acquisition of the apparatus does not at all make its owner a welder. It is necessary to “fill your hand” well, starting with the most simple seams. And we must be prepared for the fact that it will not turn out right away, patience, diligence, perseverance are required. - read in a special publication of our portal.
If these tools are available, and experience in welding work enough, it's time to choose a product for manufacturing. A drawing of a future fixture can be found or developed independently, to the best of your ability.
A few useful ideas will be suggested below. They can be taken as a basis and, if desired, improved according to your own understanding.
Custom garden tool available for DIY
Today, manufacturers of gardening tools, given hard labour for tillage, have developed and offer the consumer a considerable amount various devices, which not only dig up, but also loosen the ground, while removing weeds. Such tools can significantly reduce the time for preparing the beds, save your back from excessive stress.
Some of these "small-mechanization" tools can be made independently, saving a decent amount.
Miracle Shovel
This tool appeared in commercials manufacturers of garden tools relatively recently. And at the same time, many craftsmen have been using such a device for more than a year, having made it on their own. And, I must say, only praising its efficiency and convenience.
As soon as they don’t call this invention - both “miracle pitchforks” and a cultivator cultivator. But no matter what name is attributed to him, the main thing is that it greatly facilitates the work of the gardener.
There are several varieties of "miracle shovels", differing from each other in their design. But they all work on the same principle. Therefore, you can choose the option that seems easier to perform and convenient to use.
The first version of the "miracle shovel"
This is the most popular version of this tool. It can be found ready-made in specialized stores or at gardening fairs. Before you start making such a model yourself, you should carefully consider its design and understand how it works.
The shovel consists of the following parts:
- Working forks.
- Front stop.
- Back stop.
- Front stop forks.
- Tuleyka for installation and fastening of the handle.
- Shank.
- Lever mechanism.
The "operating manual" of this tool can be presented as follows:
- The shovel-ripper is taken by the handle and installed on the soil on the front stop.
- Further, the working forks are stuck into the soil so that the back gauge also touches the ground.
- Then the shovel handle is lowered down with the application little effort to myself. Due to this, the working forks will begin to move upward, raising the soil layers.
- The forks located on the front stop, passing between the teeth of the working forks, will loosen the ground. At the same time, the soil layer does not have to be turned over, so that the fertile layer will not be disturbed in it.
- After that, the shovel moves to next section, and the operations are repeated.
This version of the shovel is designed for digging the soil to a maximum depth equal to the length of the working forks. Accordingly, the width of the processed strip will be equal to the width of the working forks. In the example shown, the working fork tines are 250 mm long and 430 mm wide.
This figure shows the "miracle shovel" disassembled, and the arrows show the process of its assembly. This visual instruction will help you assemble any version of the “miracle shovel” design.
In order to make such a tool, you need to prepare the following material:
- To make a working pitchfork, you will need:
- a piece of steel corner 20 × 20 × 4 mm or a profile pipe 20 × 20 mm, 460 mm long;
- line segment round pipe½ inch, 220 ÷ 250 mm long - for making a tuley;
- two metal plates 100 × 40 × 4 mm in size - for fixing the body on the frame of the front stop;
- six pieces of steel round (Ø 8 mm) or, which would be better - a square bar with a section of 8 × 8 mm, 240 mm long.
- For the manufacture of an emphasis frame with front forks, it will be necessary to prepare the following parts:
- for supporting so-called skis, two pieces of a round pipe with an outer diameter of 10 mm and a length of 710 mm are required;
- the cross member on which the working forks will be attached will require a piece of a profile pipe 460 mm long and 20 × 20 mm in cross section;
- the second cross member, on which the teeth of the front forks will be welded, is made of a pipe with a diameter of 12 mm;
- a pipe 170 mm long and 12 mm in diameter for connecting the frame with the supporting heel of the structure;
- for the support part, you will need a corner measuring 15 × 15 × 4 × 330 mm;
- six pieces of a round rod 200 mm long, similar to those used for working forks.
- reliable wooden stalk.
Work on the manufacture of a miracle shovel is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to mark and cut with a grinder parts for the design of the shovel. It is best to prepare the working fork elements first, and then the base frame. Further, all parts will be prepared according to the drawing during installation work. |
 | First of all, the base frame and front forks are made. In order to make a pitchfork, the pipe is marked for holes, which must be located in increments of 65 mm. Non-through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the marked centers. Then pieces of reinforcement are installed in them, which will become the teeth of the front forks. |
 | Further, “skis” are prepared for welding, that is, the side parts of the support frame. One edge of these skids should have a slight curve for better gliding on the ground. In order for the pipe to retain the given shape when using the tool, an incision is made on it, departing from one of the edges of 100 mm, due to which the necessary curvature is given to the pipe. Then the incision is boiled, which will give rigidity to the parts. You can do without a notch by shaping the “skis” on a pipe bender. |
 | The next step is to make marks on the profile pipe for welding the "ears" - these are two metal plates measuring 300 × 20 × 4 mm. Holes are drilled in them for the hinged connection of the support frame with the working forks. Instead of plates, which are quite difficult to weld, steel angles with holes of the required size can be used. |
 | The distance between the "ears" should be 100 mm. |
 | The next step is to weld the back stop to the profile pipe, on its other side, exactly in the middle at an angle of 120 degrees, consisting of a round pipe with a cross member made of a metal corner. |
 | Now that all the details of the support frame are ready, they are assembled in general design welding. It is very important to set the crossbars of the frame in relation to it at a right angle, otherwise the shovel will not function well enough. |
 | Next, a shell for a working fork is made, it must be welded exactly in the middle of the corner on which the teeth will be fixed. The pipe can be narrowed on one side, giving it an oval shape, as I did in this case master, or leave the diameter the same along the entire length. Stepping back from the upper edge of the body of 50 mm, places are marked for fixing metal plates, in which holes are pre-drilled to create a swivel joint with the “ears” welded on the support frame. The teeth are welded to the corner later, after fitting the mount. |
 | When the tuleyka is ready, they try it on the supporting part of the shovel, temporarily screwing it onto the bolts. In order for the lever mechanism to function without jamming, it is necessary to select bolts that are threaded only at the end. |
 | If everything works as it should, it remains only to try on and weld the teeth to the corner of the working forks. They are placed in such a way that they are between the teeth of the front forks and do not come into contact with them during work. The distance between the teeth of the working part of the shovel should also be 65 mm. |
 | But before welding the teeth on the corner, they must be prepared, as they must have a slight bend and pointed ends. There are two ways to sharpen the ends of square rods - forging or neat trimming and stripping. For forging, the metal will have to be red-hot, and then on the anvil to give the ends the desired shape with a hammer. This is quite skillful work, in addition, not everyone has a special furnace for heating metal. Therefore, it remains to sharpen the ends of the teeth mechanically, that is, carefully cut off a part of the metal on one side of the square, and then clean the cut points. You can turn to a turner who will work on a lathe. |
 | You can make a smooth bend at the ends of the teeth using a pipe bender, using one template. If this device is not available, then this work will have to be done with a vice and a hammer. However, it must be remembered that the bend on all teeth must be the same, so it may be better to carry out this process after welding the teeth to the corner. The fork can also be bent with a hammer, laying them with teeth on a template. |
 | As a result of the performed operations, a comfortable, relatively light construction is obtained. Moreover, the “miracle shovel” will only need to be brought to the place of work and taken away at the end of the place of work. The rest of the time it will not be necessary to lift it, since it will move along the soil with the help of “ski” runners. |
The manufacturer of this "miracle shovel" honestly admits that, having made it in the fall, he tried to dig up the wet earth, and he did not succeed. It turned out that the earth was stuck between the teeth, and the runners were moving heavily on wet ground.
Therefore, given his mistakes, you should not experiment with the tool immediately after the snow melts. Dry soil is excellently dug up with this tool, even if it is already “obscenely” overgrown with grass. The working forks pick up and pull out the weeds, while the front forks free them from the soil. But in order to remove the grass from the dug-up beds, you still have to bend down.
Prices for miracle shovels
miracle shovel
Second option
In addition to this model, there are other models of "miracle shovels". For example, for older people who like to tinker in the garden, there is an option developed by the Altai craftsman V. Popenko.
This design has a comfortable high U-shaped handle that allows you to work without bending down. And if necessary, you can lean on such a handle by sticking teeth into the ground.
The disadvantage of this “miracle shovel” option is the lack of good loosening of the soil. Therefore, it is additionally necessary to break the clods and grind them with a rake.
Third option
Another design that can rather be called an improved pitchfork for digging the earth. But it will also make the job easier - due to the special support pedal installed on the handle. When the forks are driven into the ground, the pedal assists in applying proper foot force. And after the pedal rests on the ground, it becomes a fulcrum for the application of force through the lever-handle hinged to it. This greatly facilitates the lifting of the excavated earth.
A similar version of the tool can be bought ready-made. But it’s easy to do otherwise - to purchase high-quality forks, and then improve them by adding a support pedal hinged to a clamp attached to the handle.
In the illustration above, not only is the design of the pedal clearly visible, but also the dimensions of all the parts necessary for the manufacture of the instrument are given.
Cultivator "Tornado"
Among gardeners, the Tornado cultivator began to enjoy wide popularity. It is actively advertised in TV and online stores. Indeed, the device is quite convenient and relatively compact. But not every Russian summer resident can afford to purchase this tool. Therefore, it is worth trying your hand at making it.
The design of the "Tornado" is simpler than the "miracle shovel" and works on the principle of a corkscrew mounted on a convenient stand with a horizontal crossbar handle.
If it is decided to make the cultivator on your own, in order to simplify the task, you can use as a basis those produced in industrial environment villas that are quite affordable. The main thing is to choose a quality option when purchasing this tool. Today there are a lot of products on the market, the metal of which will not endure manipulations for alteration - steel does not stand up to criticism.
"Tornado" can be made immediately to your height, or you can make the handle adjustable. There are many options here. For example, Collet clamp with a threaded sleeve (but this is quite difficult to do on your own). Or a series of holes in the sliding part of the rack - this option is shown in the illustration below.
The “crab”, that is, the working part of the factory tool, is made by forging, so the teeth are resistant to bending. And if it is possible to make this part of the cultivator using the same technology, then it is better to choose this option. To do this, you need to heat the workpieces and use a hammer to give them the desired shape and direction. It must be said right away that not every master can do this process.
As you can see in the drawings and photos, the teeth of the "crab" have arcuate bends, are attached to the base in one direction, and in finished product they form inner space oval or round shape.
The teeth are welded in such a way that they form a kind of square around the rack. That is, the fixation of each of them does not occur pointwise, but along the entire fold line of the part, which forms one side of the square. You can first weld a square steel plate 5 ÷ 6 mm thick to the lower end of the pipe-rack, and then weld the teeth to the sides of this square - it seems easier this way. Thanks to the continuous penetration of the teeth, the “crab” withstands high loads during tool operation.
The teeth of the “crab” are narrowed, thanks to which they easily drive into the soil and do not deform. But there is no special need to hone them - they will cope with the task anyway. The height of the "crab" can be from 180 to 200 mm. Accordingly, the loosening of the soil occurs to the same depth.
"Tornado" is often called a root remover, because when digging and loosening the soil, weeds are simultaneously removed from it along with their root system.
The principle of operation of the cultivator is to install the “crab” perpendicularly on the soil surface, followed by turning the tool 60 degrees while pressing down. Therefore, an important point is the shape and length of the handle, as it should work as a convenient and effective lever.
Prices for the Tornado cultivator
Other tillage tools Tornado
Models are available with different forms handles, therefore, with self-production, you can choose best option. So, the handle is made straight with a slight bend towards itself, 750 mm long. Or, as already mentioned and shown above in the drawing, you can use the steering wheel from an old bicycle as a handle.
In a word, a skilled craftsman is quite capable of making this tool as convenient as possible for himself.
Fokine flat cutter
Another device that solves several problems is a flat cutter, invented by V.V. Fokin.
This simple tool can do the following:
- Efficient removal of weeds from beds. Thanks to its compact dimensions and ergonomic shape, this tool can easily pass between cultivated plants without damaging them.
- The loosening of the beds can be done at different depths, since not only the side, but also the front part of the tool is working.
- Hilling plants is also within the power of this small tool.
- Forming beds and maintaining their shape during the season, as well as much more.
Learn about available options arrangement, from our new article on our portal.
For the manufacture of a flat cutter, a metal strip 3 mm thick is required, and all other required dimensional parameters are presented in the drawing. The edges of the plate must be well processed, cleared of bumps and burrs. And in the upper part, drill two or three holes to fix the nozzle on the handle. Then, the plate will need to be bent properly. In order for the metal to bend better, it must be heated, for example, with a blowtorch.
To give the metal strip the required shape, several successive bends are made. The order of their execution is shown in the illustration below.
After the metal has cooled down, the edges of the working area of the flat cutter must be properly sharpened on both sides.
After that, the flat cutter can be mounted on a wooden handle, the material for which can be bought quite inexpensively at a hardware store. The bar must be well cut, chamfered, deburred, sanded with sandpaper. After that, holes are drilled to secure the tool itself, if the connection was planned to be screwed. Many owners are limited to fixing a flat cutter to the handle with self-tapping screws.
The tool is quite light in weight, so it is perfect for gardening for people of all ages.
Fokin flat cutter prices
Fokine flat cutter
It is also easy to use a flat cutter. To do this, the sharpened side of the plate is inserted into the soil to a depth of 40 mm, set parallel to the surface. Then, with little effort, they begin loosening or cutting the root system of weeds.
At proper manufacture and operation, the flat cutter plate sharpened on both sides is capable of self-sharpening. If, nevertheless, the tool becomes dull, then periodically it can be sharpened with a grinder or file.
Equipment for planting potatoes
To facilitate the planting of the most popular root crop, craftsmen invented special devices, the so-called planters and markers. In addition to them, mechanized planting devices are also made, but they are more suitable for large areas. Manual planters are suitable for any size garden, greatly simplify and speed up the planting process.
The simplest marker device for quick planting potatoes
Markers are designed to create depressions in the dug up soil for throwing potatoes into them. They can be single, double or triple.
The presence of two or three cone heads for creating holes not only speeds up the work, but also allows you to maintain the evenness of the planting rows. So to plant enough large area the garden will require the joint actions of only two people. One forms the holes with a marker, and the second throws into them potato tubers and covered with soil on top. The recesses themselves are small and neat, so you can fill them up by simply pushing the soil with your foot. Thus, there is no need to work with a shovel, digging and then filling wide furrows. As a result, the landing process is not accompanied by fatigue or even local back injury.
The device itself has a very simple design which can be easily made at home. This will require a frame with a comfortable handle on which cone markers are welded.
As a handle, you can use parts of the back of an old metal bed or a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm, placing plastic hand pads on it.
For the lower horizontal crossbar, on which the cones will be fixed by welding, suitable profile pipe, for example, 10×20 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
The cones are welded onto the crossbar at a distance of 450 mm from each other. On the protruding edge of the crossbar with the same distance from the nearest marker, you can simply weld a rod of reinforcement - it only acts as a guideline when maintaining the evenness of the row relative to the intended line or already planted rows.
A more complex version of the planter
Another, more difficult to manufacture version of the planter involves the simultaneous digging of a hole and planting a tuber.
How to make this design will be discussed further in the instruction table:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | For the manufacture of this planter model, a pipe segment with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 150 ÷ 200 mm is required. On the pipe on both sides, it is immediately necessary to make markings for the holes. Their centers should be located exactly opposite each other. Two holes will be drilled through them. |
 | To make it easier to drill the pipe, it is laid on convenient stand. In this case, a piece of rail is used as it. It perfectly fulfills the role of not only a stand, but also an anvil. Before starting drilling, holes are marked with a core, which will also facilitate drilling in a semi-circular surface. Holes are made at a distance of 10÷12 mm from the edge of the pipe and should have a diameter of 8÷10 mm, for bolts of the same size. |
 | For the manufacture of a conical detachable part of the planter, a small sheet of metal 1.5 mm thick is required. On the sheet, two triangles with a cut top are marked. The size of one part is 190÷200 mm in height, the base of the triangle is 160 mm and the width of the upper cut is 30 mm. The second part has the same height, but its base must be 180 mm long and the cut must be 20 mm. The lined parts must be carefully cut out with the help of a grinder. |
 | The result is two triangles with a cut top, from which it will be necessary to make a split cone. One side of this assembly will be fixed, and the other side will be able to move in a hinged mount. For the manufacture of the fixed part, a smaller part is used. |
 | To give the parts a semicircular shape, they must be bent. The work is best done on the anvil, but if it is not there, a section of the rail comes to the rescue again. Giving the necessary shape is carried out with an ordinary hammer, with which one or the other side of the part is knocked out. |
 | In the course of giving the parts the necessary bend, they are periodically fitted to the pipe. |
 | The part must be installed on the edge of the pipe and at the same time, its edges must be located at right angles to the cut of the pipe - this will turn out to be a half of the cone converging towards the center. In order to achieve such an installation of the part, it will be necessary to trim the edges in its lower part. To do this, holding the part in the required position, areas for trimming are outlined. |
 | Along the marking lines, the part is cut off with the help of a grinder. |
 | The fixed part of the planter cone should be in this position, since the second, movable half should close with it as tightly as possible. |
 | Just like the first part of the cone, the second, movable half of it is made from the prepared plate. Then it is fitted and adjusted. |
 | However, a more accurate adjustment can only be made after fixing the fixed part of the cone to the pipe. Therefore, it is welded to the base - the pipe. |
 | The illustration clearly shows that the corners of the movable side of the cone are on the pipe. It is from them that you need to get rid of, otherwise they will interfere with the opening of the planter. |
 | Before removing them, it is necessary to mark up, and then cut off the excess parts with the help of a grinder. If the fixed side of the product is installed and welded onto the wall of the pipe, then the movable part should bend around it, being a little on it from the outside, as it will open. |
 | As a result of the work done, it should turn out approximately as shown in this illustration. |
 | The next step is to install the hinge assembly, with which the movable part of the planter will open and close. To do this, you will need to prepare two plates - an “ear”, made of metal with a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm. In these parts, a hole of the same diameter is drilled as in the holes made earlier in the pipe walls. |
 | For screwing the "ears" to the pipe, bolts 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter and 10 ÷ 15 mm long are used. It is better to grind their heads immediately so that they protrude as little as possible from the surface of the pipe. The bolts are inserted from the inside of the pipe, pass through it and the hole drilled in the “eye”, and are attracted by washers and nuts on top of it. |
 | The “ears” will have to be bent a little, giving mm the shape of the walls of the opening part of the cone, since they will be welded on them. |
 | Now the upper side of the "lugs" can be grabbed with welding points to the walls of the movable part of the cone. When fixing them, you may have to correct the closure of the two halves. |
 | Next comes the manufacture and welding of planter handles. This will require a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch, and the length should be comfortable for work. One end of the pipe is cut at an angle, as it will be fixed to the planter body. You can also choose the slope yourself, but in this case, the position of the handle relative to the body falls at an angle of about 20 degrees. |
 | The second handle is welded in the middle of the opening side of the cone in its upper part. When you press this handle, it, attracted to the pipe, will open the cone. Therefore, it is placed at an angle of 35 ÷ 40 degrees. |
 | If, when testing the planter, the handle welded to the pipe turns out to be not quite convenient, then its position can be corrected. |
 | To do this, an incision is made on its inner side, along which the pipe is bent at an angle to its welded part and is attracted closer to the planter body. Then, along the fold, the handle is boiled. |
 | Now the product is being tested again. In this case, the builder found that the planter was opening too wide, so a stop bolt had to be included in the design. It will limit the opening width of the cone, due to which the planted tuber or a glass of seeds will be covered with soil on its own when the planter is pulled out of the ground. |
 | To do this, a nut is welded to the handle, fixed on the movable side of the cone, into which the limiter bolt is screwed. |
 | Thus, when the handles are brought together, the bolt in the desired position will rest against the body pipe, preventing the planter cone from opening completely. By screwing and unscrewing this limiter, it will be possible to adjust the width of the hole at the planting depth. |
 | A plate is welded to the rear side of the pipe - a pedal, which is necessary to deepen the planter into the ground by transferring the force of the foot. Since a rather high load will fall on the pedal, the plate must be strengthened by welding a strut to it from below - a piece of reinforcement, the second end of which is welded to the planter body. |
This planter design is suitable not only for planting potatoes, but also for other plants that are planted in the form of bushes, seeds or bulbs. There are other options for such devices, but they all work on the same principle.
Devices for manual harvesting of root crops
There are not only devices for planting potatoes, but also "mechanisms" for its convenient and quick cleaning. So, using a manual digger, labor productivity can be almost doubled. This is due to the fact that, unlike a conventional shovel, the device captures the soil not from one, but from two sides at once, easily bringing tubers to the surface.
The digger has not too complex structure, which you can assemble yourself. In order to make such a tool, you will need to purchase a pair of ordinary pitchforks. In addition to them, for the formation of handles, two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 27 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm and a length of 720 ÷ 950 mm are required. And yet - a metal plate 5 mm thick, 50 mm wide and 330 mm long for the manufacture of the crossbar.
- Fork teeth.
- Crossbar.
- "Ears" welded to the pitchfork.
- Bolt M10.
- Potato digger handles.
The tool is made in the following order:
- Wooden cuttings are taken from the forks of the pitchfork.
- Under the shells, in the middle part of the forks, two “lugs” with a diameter of 11 ÷ 12 mm are welded at a distance of 55 mm. So that a crossbar freely stands between them.
- On the underside of the crossbar, along its short edges, tubes with a diameter of 10.5 mm are welded. Through them and the "lugs" mounted on the forks, a hinge bolt with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 70 mm will pass.
- Next, tool handles are made. The ends of the pipes intended for them must be bent so that they are comfortable to hold in your hands. And then it is recommended to put hose sections on the bent ends. So the hands will not slip during the work.
- And, finally, the prepared handles, after adjusting their configuration, are welded into the fork shells.
Everything, the design is ready to work. The forks of the digger are bred in an open position and set above the potato bush. Further, stepping on the crossbar, they drive the pitchfork into the ground. After that, the handles are spread apart, that is, the forks at the same time approach each other, lifting the captured soil with all its contents up. In this case, the teeth engage the root system and tubers of the bush. The digger, together with the captured crop, is raised to the surface, the loose soil crumbles, leaving the potatoes clean. In the process of digging potatoes with such a homemade digger, its tubers are minimally damaged, and the soil does not move.
It is not recommended to dig up potatoes with a digger (as, indeed, with a regular shovel) if the soil is very moist. The cleaning process in such conditions will be significantly complicated by the excessive weight and inconvenience of the tool due to sticky soil.
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As can be seen from the foregoing, if the owner wishes and the tools are available, it is quite possible to make convenient equipment for gardening, planting and harvesting in a home workshop. This saves a lot of money. And especially - if the "stash" of the master has many materials necessary for work.
Variety examples shown homemade means"Small-scale mechanization" of horticultural work, of course, is not limited. Others can be found if desired. useful gadgets, and maybe even come up with some kind of improvement yourself. We will be glad if someone can share their experience on the pages of our portal.
In conclusion - an interesting video about another useful tool - a cultivator. Fire will be an excellent assistant during the period of regular weeding of beds from weeds.
Video: Homemade hand cultivator for fast and efficient weeding
