home > Interior Design > An old barrel instead of a compost heap. DIY compost barrel Compost barrels

An old barrel instead of a compost heap. DIY compost barrel Compost barrels

A leaky metal barrel is beautiful mobile place for making compost.
Usually compost is prepared in special containers, boxes or piles. The preparation time is from two - three months to two years, depending on the volume of the contents and the number of its transshipments.

To create our unique place and method of composting, we need a large diameter pipe. Hammer and chisel (instead of a chisel better ax) cut down both bottoms in a leaky barrel. Here is the finished pipe.

For good country houses or country houses, you always need to buy new furniture. Furniture for a summer residence is bought in the same place where kitchen tables are sold. After all kitchen table- Very important element interior country house. Choosing quality furniture to the kitchen, you take care of your wife, who can easily cook you a lot of delicious and healthy meals.

With the help of a grinder (angle grinder), we make two cuts into two unequal parts, put them “on the priest” and connect them with a strong synthetic rope, but the wire is more reliable. It turned out a new easily detachable pipe. This is a compost container. It is necessary to make several holes - "pockets" for air access.

They put there: cut knots, mowed weeds and grass, turf, collected leaves, sawdust, paper waste, rags and so on. The composting process goes faster if the container is covered with a lid, and to increase the temperature inside, it is necessary to paint in dark color. And also periodically water the contents with a solution of ammonium nitrate ( Matchbox on a bucket of water) and use organic waste: residues from dining table, fish waste during processing, and so on, but this is provided that your unique container is tightly closed.

The advantages over a compost pit are obvious:

maneuverability of the object, it is enough to put it near the cultivated area and there is no need to wear selectable roots, sod land to the place compost heap;

ease of manufacture, when marking and cutting, complex engineering solutions are not required;

the availability of the source material (for worms and bacteria from below) and for the summer resident-gardener - just untie the rope (wire) and you have 20 buckets (a barrel of 200 liters) of the most beautiful and loved by plants compost. And if there are two or more barrels ...

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in horizontal position and attach a handle to rotate. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If the site is equipped wooden box for composting, the bottom will sooner or later rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then nutrients will go into the soil under the box irretrievably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in pure form and always mixed with soil.

It is easier to make a compost pit out of a barrel than to make a storage facility out of concrete, although concrete is also very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

Can wrap walls and bottom mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. Luke will serve plastic cover which is sold as a set.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost bin, you need some tools and Additional materials- wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the filled compost raw materials barrel.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden blocks. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, it is put on metal PVC pipe- It is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter soil layer, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be purchased at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.

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compost pit is a place of disposal organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden debris decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes, they can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from utility building materials available in the country.

Compost pit principles

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the vital activity of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, inside the compost heap must be maintained quite heat and humidity with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost tank must have the following design features:

Make compost boxes from any available materials. It can be boards, slate trimmings, corrugated board, metal building mesh and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

chief sanitary requirement when constructing a compost pit, its distance is 20 meters from water bodies and sources drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of infection ground water, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place a compost pit in wetlands or in places with stagnant water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully colored shields, fenced with loach plantings and perennial ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or backyard, using the simplest tools, you can make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden debris and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are the most different kinds compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

In the ground, a site is selected away from residential buildings.
On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, they shoot upper layer sod and soil.
The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
The bottom is being dumped sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of cut branches.

They are laid in layers:

cut grass;
dry foliage;
sawdust;
household food waste;
manure;
weedy herbs.

Layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying, simply chopping with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, a bunch of watered plain water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer season. This is the most simple and economical way getting compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is enough for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speed up the recycling process, the compost bin is made from boards. Optimal size compost bin 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Lay garbage in such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost already from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Variants of compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a composter from slate:

Marking is done at the location of the compost heap and deepen cut-to-size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
In another embodiment, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. A cover for the pit is made from plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with a film or garden covering material.

Compost pit from corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

At the chosen place, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden bar.
The dimensions of the pit are selected according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make compost bin with two or three compartments.
The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
It must be taken into account that metal surface gets very hot during hot summers.
From above they make a shelter for their plywood or boards. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste according to the principle of a compost pit. And also compost can be made in special bags that are sold at garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many benefits:

Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. Compost of different seasons will ripen in the first and second blocks. The third store bags of finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.

Other material options for the compost pit

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

We cut down both bottoms with a chisel and put them near the track.
We put weeds, mowed grass, kitchen waste in layers in a barrel.
To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
We get the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
Then we put them on the priest and connect them with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
To get ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal material for a compost bin is plastic. In conventional compost heaps, compost takes two years to mature. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, liquid compost can be prepared in two weeks.

For this:

We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds to half, and fill it with water to the top.
After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
After using the solution, you can again add water to the barrel and let it brew for one week.
Having spent the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

A brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done on cement mortar or without it. On a cement mortar, a compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Between the bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A brick compost pit without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid out of available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the inner cavity concrete ring you can successfully store garden waste and get compost as a result. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of an underestimated front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

If there is no desire to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, it is pulled out and another is inserted. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The empty container is washed and returned to its place.

Do not confuse compost and cesspool. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for making compost. The remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our vegetable gardens and orchards receive additional fertilizer.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

branches;
dry foliage;
cut grass;
weeds;
straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

food leftovers from vegetarian food;
egg shell;
onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken manure.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
remnants of printed products;
plastic.

Do not compost leftover protein and oily foods, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with matured seeds and with roots that can take root well, such as:

thistle;
wheatgrass;
loach.

Drought-tolerant plants should be dried before being placed in the compost pile so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it slowly decomposes and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use feces of domestic animals and humans when composting.

Preparations for the compost pit

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be diluted in 20 liters warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn a bunch of pitchforks. For the preparation of compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
Manufacturer Lucky summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- compost preparation. Saneks plus releases the EcoCompost product.
Manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green all-rounder", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

By using preparations, microbiological processes can be significantly accelerated and compost can be obtained in 2-3 months.

Preparations-bioactivators for compost

Rules for the operation of a compost pit

After the construction of the compost box and its filling, it remains occasionally to look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

In dry periods, it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
At least once every two weeks, you should loosen the compost heap., thereby providing an influx of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
Add "Effective Microorganisms" to your compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
To speed up the process, you can add a ready-made compost substrate, which contains full complex microbiological activators.
If the pit design does not have a top cover then simply tighten the top with a covering garden material black, which will increase the temperature and the greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

Creating a compost pit does not require serious material investments. It can be made with my own hands from improvised materials, which are always enough on any personal plot.

Having spent a little time on making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposing of garden and household waste.

In this article we will talk about how to make compost with your own hands using special tools. It turns out that you can quite easily make a compost bin with your own hands. This device is used as a fence for a compost heap in a summer cottage. You can also use empty barrels, containers from under various bulk substances.

After choosing a place, it was up to the filling container itself. Plastic box or wooden box? Plastic is prettier and more durable, but boards are more affordable - there is a stack of old boards in everyone's barn ...

DIY compost bin

In order to make a compost box with your own hands, you need only 4 short boards, 50-70 cm long. Set it on the grass in the form of a low box and secure with pegs. Or nail them together. Let the composter turn out to be low - in the early summer, the accumulation of kitchen waste and weeds is slow, and there will be enough time to come up with something better.

A box 2-3 boards high for many will be quite sufficient for the season, by the fall you will just fill it with a slide.

By the way, it is not necessary to enclose the composter on four sides: the simplest compost storage can be limited only on two sides by boards. Or even on the one hand - from the front.

Compost types

In garden centers and other household outlets you can find plastic composters most different shapes and size (what they don’t offer us there: boxes, “suitcases”, tanks, “beehives”, “flying saucers”.). Volume from one barrel (150-200 l) and above (400-900 l). Such an organic store is installed in the garden. With their help, you can prepare a wide variety of types of compost, since very favorable conditions are created in a plastic container for overheating and processing any type of waste.

plastic can be considered best material for organic processing. It is neutral (steel quickly corrodes from organic compounds), light, durable (unlike boards that rot underneath), and relatively cheap.

Large plastic composter reliable in maintaining conditions for the maturation of compost due to its size. It “breathes” quite well, so special slots in the walls that are available in some models are not necessary.

For composting, any other household plastic container is also used: boxes, buckets from building materials, leaky basins. If necessary, plastic containers are immediately interchangeable, they can be temporarily withdrawn from fertilizer production for other garden needs (sheltering plants on cold nights, heating water in the sun for irrigation, growing seedlings ...). For this reason, it is impossible to give unconditional preference to large containers like 150-200 liter plastic barrels. Such barrels, of course, are very practical, very productive, but in addition to them, a “park” of smaller buckets and containers of 50-60 liters or 10-20 liters will not hurt. organic nutrition there is no such thing as too much in high season!

Today, fruit vendors have all sorts of disposable plastic crates with slatted bottoms, which they often throw away when emptied. These small boxes are suitable for a multi-tiered composter, as they have a slatted bottom, they are joined to each other with special grooves. So, they are used for vermicompost: another box with fresh food for earthworms is delivered above the lower boxes with food turned into humus. Boxes can also be used for ordinary compost, as the gratings will create layers of air between the layers - this is very favorable for compost, which is periodically moistened from a watering can.

The simplest plastic composter is plastic bag for garbage or a regular grocery bag. This "capacity" is used by some gardeners. The bag is filled with wet grass or foliage, tied up and left somewhere in the shade for several months, and the decomposed humus substance is removed. It is important that the packages do not cake during storage.

Compost at home

Compost at home is prepared using organic storage tanks, which differ from those considered in that they are located not in the garden, but somewhere in the living room: on the balcony, on stairwell or even in the kitchen itself. It has a modest size - 10-15 liters, apparently, in the expectation that a housewife could easily lift it.

For the first time, the gardener is perplexed: isn't it too small? But this is purely for peeling potatoes!

Yes, this composter is on winter period when the garden lies under the snow and the organic matter comes down to daily kitchen waste according to the principle “fill one composter, take it away, and put the next one in its place”. It would be more correct to talk about a battery of several such composters that can be started, say, while living all year round V country house. Filled, until spring they are stored in the cellar or on the veranda.

A small kitchen plastic composter is not just a “garbage bin”, it has its own structure: at the bottom there is a grate to hold the bulk of the waste. Under it is formed air layer, it provides the breath of the compost. It is important that this compartment is not filled with liquid. To drain it, a tap was made to drain excess liquid.

kitchen composter. It is understood that he is still standing not in the kitchen itself, but somewhere in the stairwell or in the glazed loggia, in the garage, in the frost-free shed, in the winter greenhouse, etc. Because the smell from it will inevitably be “not Chanel”, it is enough to remove the cover once to reset the next trimmings. Of course, you won’t regret microbial preparations on it, but they just don’t always cope ... It fills up quickly. In the city, in a glazed loggia, a battery of filled composters will be accumulated until spring. But in the spring they will go to the site in the back seat of the car.

Compost and compost heap preparation

Boards are a favorite material for large composters among our gardeners. There are compost bins as high as a person and above, assembled from boards, sometimes upholstered with sheets of galvanized iron. The preparation of compost and compost heaps begins with the selection of a suitable place on the site and the installation of a device there.

For the base of a bulk box, 4 stakes, beams or logs are usually driven into or driven into the ground. Boards are nailed to them from the sides. If there are not enough of these side boards, then a sparse frame is made of them and then strips of galvanized iron or, for example, ondulin, sometimes roofing material, are nailed.

In the first season, it is filled with all kinds of plant material, and the next season, while it ripens, pumpkins are planted on top so that the garden area does not go to waste. Very large pumpkins are obtained here. There are so many nutrients in the compost that taking some of them with pumpkin roots will not deplete our fertilizer. You must have seen such high thickets of pumpkins near fences and sheds - these are ripening compost heaps. Sometimes cucumbers are planted instead of pumpkins.

The same boxes are made for composting manure or peat.

Compost in a barrel

IN European countries all kinds of compost walls made of concrete are common. Often these are just two "walls" installed at right angles (horizontally or vertically) somewhere near the outbuildings, where garden debris is thrown, including autumn foliage(it is necessary to put it somewhere, sweeping the yard). Temporarily inactive greenhouses from concrete slabs. Concrete is also an environmentally friendly material, it is one of the most suitable materials for the composter device, as it is durable and strong, maintains the desired humidity well, and contact with organic materials does not destroy it, unlike wood.

Unfortunately, we rarely sell flat concrete blocks especially for composters. Wide as a substitute garden tiles. A box of such tiles looks neater and more fundamental than a “kennel” made of boards. It is also worth considering the option of how to make compost in a barrel: this container is great for overheating any waste.

I needed compost. It does not matter whether he is ready to the end or not, but autumn has come, and it is time to act. We extract wealth and economically spend it "on the squares." Compost box, it is more convenient to remove it immediately, if possible.

How to make compost in a barrel?

Undecomposed stem fibers will definitely remain in the compost, which will make it difficult to extract, transfer and dig. Therefore, you usually have to grind it a little with a shovel right on the spot with blows from above, so that the blade goes to the ground. But now the compost is easy to mix and pour into buckets.

Compost can also be crushed there, at the place of application, in the garden or in trunk circle, if worn close and managed to throw it on a pitchfork. This contributes to a more uniform digging: they scattered the compost over the surface of the beds, chopped it with a shovel - it had already mixed a little with the ground - and then dug it in.

A small bonus is loose and nutritious soil from under the compost to the depth of a shovel bayonet, which doubles the amount of our highly nutritious fertilizer. It always becomes more nutritious than it was, because toilet drains accumulate here, and if the compost is entirely vegetable, then earthworms are based here, they saturate it with caprolites. Compost ennobles everything on which it lies: sand, peat, overgrown garden soil. This land is also spread over the plantings, and the resulting hole is filled with turf or earth from another place. With a plastic composter, the situation will be somewhat more painstaking: the humus material is carefully removed wooden spatula or an owl.

But what if the compost is not ripe, is it possible to make it already?

If it has been enriched with nitrogen, then it can be applied with confidence. After all, in the fall you can make a digging along with nitrogen fertilizer even just obtained, completely undecomposed plant residues.

Cultivated plants and trees require a regular supply of nutrients, and the soil is gradually depleted. Therefore, it is required to regularly apply top dressing to the soil - organic and mineral. Chemicals have not only positive influence on green spaces, so modern vegetable growers prefer not to use such products for fertilizing vegetables and fruits, but prefer dressings made from natural ingredients.

One such fertilizer is compost. It can be made from vegetable waste that remains after weeding in the garden or in the garden, as well as from food and other components. To get a complete feeding, necessary elements must rot.

Pits are dug under the compost in the plots, where they put plant waste, from which in the future an excellent tool is obtained to improve soil fertility. But some gardeners do compost dressing in old boxes, an iron barrel, and in any other containers that are no longer used for their intended purpose.

Below we will talk about how to make compost in a barrel, about the main advantages of natural fertilizer, as well as about the nuances of preparing organic matter in this way.

Top dressing, obtained by decomposition of organic elements, has a positive effect on the composition of the soil, increases fertility, and there are practically no costs for its preparation. As a basis for the compost, they dig a hole (or make a container in which organic garbage will overheat), and then put all the plant residues from the site there.

If there is no place in the garden for a hole (or there is no way to dig it), then an ordinary barrel is suitable for preparing organic fertilizer. So that the process of fermentation of plant waste is not accompanied bad smell, a lid is attached to this container.

Advantages over a compost pit

Barrel advantages:

1) it can be placed in any free corner of the site;
2) installation does not require much space;
3) appearance more aesthetic (compared to a pit);
4) in the neck of the barrel can be done small holes for the intake of oxygen, which is necessary for beneficial bacteria for life;
5) it is possible to make a hole in the lower part of the structure through which ready-made compost can be taken;
6) in a barrel, organic fertilizer will not dry out or be washed out by melting snow or other precipitation;
7) in a container with an already ripe dressing, you can grow cucumbers or zucchini.

But there are benefits to composting in a pit too:

no need to start large-scale construction, it is enough to dig a square recess with sides of 1.4 m and a depth of 0.5 m;
the pit can be filled throughout the season without thinking about a possible lack of space;
plant components are put into a pit and after filling it, if it is not possible to dig another one, then a compost heap will grow from above.

But such recesses without covers with clusters formed on top spoil the view of the site, spread an unpleasant smell around.

What to put in a barrel?

Making compost in the country with your own hands is easy. A barrel of any size is suitable for this, but a large one is better - more waste will fit in it. The only caveat is that in the container for the decomposition of organic residues there should not be metal parts in contact with decay products.

Put into the barrel:

weeds, plant debris, small tree branches;
grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and shavings, peat;
food waste and slop;
wood ash, chicken manure.

You can not add weeds with seeds, diseased parts of plants, as well as animal manure to the compost: along with it, there is a risk of introducing pathogenic microflora into the preparing organic matter.

The order of laying raw materials

It is necessary to lay all plant and food residues in a container in crushed form so that they rot faster. Layers of organic matter are sprinkled with earth, peat or chicken manure.

The process of composting waste is faster if water or slop is added to the barrel daily (for such irrigation, weed infusion, drunk tea leaves, coffee grounds are used).

It is best to alternate the following layers of organics and other substances:

plant remains;
bird droppings;
wood ash;
priming.

Compost maturation in a barrel

To get rotted organic fertilizer, you have to wait: the process of decay in a compost barrel lasts 2-3 seasons. The time interval depends on the degree of grinding of raw materials and the presence of favorable microflora, under the influence of which decay occurs.

If you start using manufactured top dressing at the end of the first season, then it will be better than simple soil from the site, but less valuable in terms of nutrients than 2-3 year old compost.

Signs of compost maturation

It is easy to determine the degree of readiness of organics:

in high-quality fertilizer, all plant residues have rotted;
it is homogeneous and friable (no sieving is required before entering into the soil);
you can calmly take it in your hands - it will be soft and dry;
Completely rotted compost smells pleasantly of forest, mushrooms and fallen leaves.

You can prepare such a high-quality organic supplement in any container, the main thing is to put only plant residues and food into it, as well as regularly add moisture for better decay.

Fully matured compost is an excellent fertilizer for garden plants, flowers, shrubs and trees. It is used to prepare a nutrient substrate for growing seedlings. vegetable crops, are added to the soil when replanting indoor flowers (those that benefit from organic top dressing).

IN large quantities they make this nutritional supplement when digging the garden and vegetable garden in the fall, when during the season the plants have taken a large amount of nutrients from the soil.

Making compost in a barrel is a simple and inexpensive way. Despite the duration of ripening, top dressing can compete with artificial fertilizers due to its effectiveness and safety for plants.

compost pit This is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, garden debris decomposes in it, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilizer. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every personal plot. But the right designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Compost pit principles

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

To do this, the compost tank must have the following design features:

Make compost boxes from any available materials. These can be boards, slate trims, corrugated board, metal construction mesh, and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from water bodies and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, wells, pools.

Choosing a site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Do not place a compost pit in wetlands or in places with stagnant water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully colored shields, fenced with loach plantings and perennial ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or backyard, using the simplest tools, you can make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden debris and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are a wide variety of types of compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

In the ground, a site is selected away from residential buildings.
On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of turf and soil is removed.
The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer performs the function of drainage and promotes aeration of the pile and consists of cut branches.

They are laid in layers:

cut grass;
dry foliage;
sawdust;
household food waste;
manure;
weedy herbs.

Layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying, simply chopping with a shovel.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use EM drugs. A temperature of +4°C inside the compost heap is enough for microorganisms to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from boards

For ease of use and speed up the recycling process, the compost bin is made from boards. The optimal size of the compost box is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Lay garbage in such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost already from below.

Photo: drawing of a compost box, composter diagram

Variants of compost pits made from boards

Slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a composter from slate:

Marking is done at the location of the compost heap and deepen cut-to-size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
In another embodiment, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

Compost pit from corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

At the chosen place, a base is constructed from a metal or wooden bar.
The dimensions of the pit are chosen according to the length of the sheets, which allows you to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
It should be borne in mind that the metal surface becomes very hot during hot summer periods.
From above they make a shelter for their plywood or boards. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Metal mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit creates many benefits:

Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. Compost of different seasons will ripen in the first and second blocks. The third store bags of finished compost.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

Other material options for the compost pit

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron barrels are great for composting:

We cut down both bottoms with a chisel and put them near the track.
We put weeds, mowed grass, kitchen waste in layers in a barrel.
To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
We get the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
Then we put them on the priest and connect them with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
To get ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

For this:

We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds to half, and fill it with water to the top.
After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
After using the solution, you can again add water to the barrel and let it brew for one week.
Having spent the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is folded into a compost heap.

Brick compost pit

A brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement mortar. On a cement mortar, a compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Between the bricks you need to leave gaps for ventilation.

A brick compost pit without a cement binder is convenient in that it can be moved to another location if necessary.

In the compost pit, you need to provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

Garden debris can be successfully stored in the inner cavity of the concrete ring and compost can be obtained as a result. For comfort the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

Compost pit according to Finnish technology

Do not confuse compost and cesspool. Organic matter from the garden plot is stored in containers for making compost. The remains of protein food should be disposed of in a cesspool.

What can and cannot be put in a compost pit?

Thanks to composting, the amount of waste in landfills is reduced, and our vegetable gardens and orchards receive additional fertilizer.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

branches;
dry foliage;
cut grass;
weeds;
straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

food leftovers from vegetarian food;
egg shell;
onion peel.

You can layer the compost with manure and chicken manure.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
remnants of printed products;
plastic.

Do not compost leftover protein and oily foods, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with matured seeds and with roots that can take root well, such as:

thistle;
wheatgrass;
loach.

Preparations for the compost pit

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

Compost preparation can be significantly accelerated by using Baikal EM. This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
The bioactivator has similar properties. The Green-Master bioactivator package must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn a bunch of pitchforks. For the preparation of compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is sufficient.
Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
Manufacturer Lucky summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- compost preparation. Saneks plus releases the EcoCompost product.
Manufacturer Dezon Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green all-rounder", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

By using preparations, microbiological processes can be significantly accelerated and compost can be obtained in 2-3 months.

On summer cottages the compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is an organic fertilizer of exceptional quality, which enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace expensive manure, mineral fertilizers or specially imported fertile soil. In addition, by collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage, and the area around it.

The compost heap or waste compost bins are usually placed in a place that is sufficiently secluded on the site so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. However, they should always be, as they say, at hand. In the "classic" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bunker there is a process laying waste, in the other - the compost is ripening, in the third - the finished fertilizer is waiting for export to the beds. Regarding the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in various reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal flow of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to annually shovel the contents of the heaps to aerate the ripening compost, that is, to speed up the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.
However, composting technology garden plot was constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the composting process was accelerated by 2 ... 3 times. So, in order to maintain moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost began to be covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". Yes, and the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all necessary to follow the fairly strict recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So in our time, a compost heap can be made quite small or, for this purpose, waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of just 1 m 3, having built it, for example, from boards.
However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of progress", we will not build anything. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit. Firstly, to ensure air access to the composted mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make a dozen two or three holes, which, for example, will be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm or we will break through with some kind of punch (Fig. 1). We will place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cm from the base of the barrel. No insulating gaskets between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we will paint the outside of the barrel dark paint, due to which, under the sun, the walls of the barrel will heat up more, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, of course, will speed up the composting process.
Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2 ... 3 such compost barrels around the site, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near summer kitchen(food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, the individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.
So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer of them 15 ... 20 cm thick. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or substances rich in nitrogen). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash is poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. We cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a string. And so that the prepared compost does not dry out, it is poured with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moisturizing the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but the compost mass should not be heavily waterlogged. The mass corresponding to the squeezed sponge in terms of humidity is considered normal. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.
To "automatically" maintain the specified humidity in the striker, plant zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber in the barrel. Polyethylene film in this case is no longer needed. Watering the mentioned plants provides the necessary humidity of the composted mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.
Experience has shown that in such a construction of a compost container - an old barrel, the composting process is accelerated, so that it is not necessary to wait any 3 years, as in classic version. It is not required, and shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg excellent fertilizer.
Rice. 1. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- earth; 6- polyethylene.
Gusev V. old barrel instead of a compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.

Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel

If a wooden compost box is equipped on the site, then sooner or later the bottom will rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then the nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

Video: Compost barrels

A barrel compost pit is easier to build than a concrete storage pit, although concrete is also a very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

You can wrap the walls and bottom with mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. The hatch will serve as a plastic cover, which is sold in the kit.

How to make a barrel composter

There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden blocks. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe passes. In order not to damage the plastic, a PVC pipe is put on the metal - it is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.

The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter layer of soil, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be purchased at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.

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How to make the right compost? At the cottage for compost, I just dug iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct? and got the best answer

Answer from Yatiana Vedenina[guru]
Very bad.
How to make compost
Install a composting device (see below) in a designated area in the garden.
Lay down approx. 20 cm of "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to the compost, alternating evenly: shredded dry "brown" materials (tree and shrub branches, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing "green" materials (kitchen waste, cut grass, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EM effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil and etc.) . Significantly improve the quality of compost plants rich in beneficial substances: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots and not flowers!) and others. The alternation of "green" and "brown" layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and later - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents, this will disrupt the air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and you can add waste to the container. When the compost bin has already been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
Stir and shovel the compost from time to time with a pitchfork for better air access and uniform compost moisture. Keep the maturing compost in the box moist by watering. However, avoid standing water in the compost bin. The unpleasant smell of ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates excess "green" materials and a lack of oxygen. Add the "brown" waste to the composter and stir the mixture.

Answer from Maria[guru]
Could be so.

Answer from Lily Viruina[newbie]
It is better to fence off the place, put a wooden pallet on the ground, put waste on it all summer long, but do not forget to water this business. If not laziness - turn several times per season, that's all)

Answer from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
why did you have to dig in? what would also rot?

Answer from Olga[guru]
And how to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up on a wheelbarrow while one pile ripens under a black film, the other is filled

Answer from Elena Orlova[guru]
I have a barrel is just at the fence. so I fill it full, and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy and they won’t drag it away, but if they want it, they will turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier then to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then to the ridges. and it’s inconvenient to scoop out of the barrel with a shovel if especially less than half of the compost remains,

Answer from Keymaster of Destiny[guru]
Wrong. How to take out? I have a leaky trash can. Turned over and everything. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.

Answer from Alla Tarasova[guru]
No, it's wrong. There must be necessarily access to air and rainwater, and without stagnation at the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, instead of composting, rotting occurs, resulting in substances harmful to the soil (acids, etc.)

Answer from Yatyana Vasilievna[guru]
The barrel should be without a bottom, and it is not necessary to dig it in.

Answer from Alla Lebedeva[guru]
I have one container dug in, and next to it is a prefabricated plastic composter - I specially bought it.

Answer from Tatiana M[guru]
Compost heap. organic fertilizer do it yourself (video)

Answer from 2 answers[guru]

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